WO2019002150A1 - Composition cosmétique comprenant un mélange de tensioactifs carboxyliques particuliers, de tensioactifs non ioniques et amphotères, et de polymères cationiques, procédé de traitement cosmétique et son utilisation - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant un mélange de tensioactifs carboxyliques particuliers, de tensioactifs non ioniques et amphotères, et de polymères cationiques, procédé de traitement cosmétique et son utilisation Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019002150A1
WO2019002150A1 PCT/EP2018/066824 EP2018066824W WO2019002150A1 WO 2019002150 A1 WO2019002150 A1 WO 2019002150A1 EP 2018066824 W EP2018066824 W EP 2018066824W WO 2019002150 A1 WO2019002150 A1 WO 2019002150A1
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alkyl
weight
group
radical
linear
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PCT/EP2018/066824
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English (en)
Inventor
Audrey CORREIA
Béatrice LOUISIUS
Estelle Mathonneau
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L'oreal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising a mixture of particular carboxylic surfactants, non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants, and cationic polymers, cosmetic treatment process and use
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular for the treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising a specific combination of anionic surfactants of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(am- ido)ether carboxylic acid type, and one or more non-ionic and amphoteric surfac- tants.
  • the invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular in human keratin fibres, using said composition, and also to the use of said composition for conferring conditioning properties on said fibres, said conditioning properties advantageously being persistent with respect to several sham- pooing operations.
  • Hair can generally be damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and/or by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing.
  • external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather
  • mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing.
  • haircare compositions which make it possible to condition the hair after these treatments to give it in particular sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and disentangling properties.
  • These hair compositions may be, for example, conditioning shampoos, compositions to be applied before shampooing (pre-shampoo) or compositions to be applied after shampooing (conditioner), and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions or creams of varying thickness.
  • Hair compositions in particular intended for hair cleansing and conditioning, comprising anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and particular cationic and amphoteric polymers are thus known, in particular through ap- plications FR 3 040 300 and FR 3 040 302. These compositions are very stable in terms of viscosity and visual appearance, and make it possible to improve the cosmetic properties conferred on the hair, in particular the disentangling, the suppleness and the feel of said hair.
  • the hair compositions described in the prior art provide conditioning properties which do not last for a sufficiently long time, in particular which do not generally sufficiently withstand washing of the hair, and which have a tendency to rapidly decrease.
  • compositions can prove to be difficult to rinse off.
  • a subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition comprising:
  • anionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(am- ido)ether carboxylic acids and/or salts thereof, of formula (la):
  • R1 represents a linear or branched C6-C10 alkyl or alkenyl radical, or a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched C3-C7 alkyl or alkenyl radical,
  • - n is a number ranging from 2 to 24,
  • - A denotes H, an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium, or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue;
  • anionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(am- ido)ether carboxylic acids and/or salts thereof, of formula (lb):
  • R'1 represents a linear or branched C11-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl(Cs- Cg)phenyl radical, or a radical R'2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R'2 denoting a linear or branched C8-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical,
  • - n' is a number ranging from 2 to 24,
  • - A' denotes H, an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium, or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue;
  • composition according to the invention has the advantage of being stable in storage both at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and at 45°C, es- pecially as regards its visual aspect and its viscosity.
  • the term “stable” refers to a composition which, after two months of storage at a temperature of 20 to 45°C, shows no change in appearance, colour, odour or viscosity.
  • the composition may advantageously be transparent, but it may also be nacreous, where appropriate.
  • composition according to the invention has good usage properties, in particular it is quick and easy to rinse off.
  • composition according to the invention has good cosmetic properties, in particular conditioning cosmetic properties; it in particular makes it possible to obtain high performance levels in terms of visual smoothness and a smooth feel (smooth nature) of the hair, said smoothness being noticeable over the entire hair, that is to say from the root of the hair to the end thereof (root-end smoothness); this "smooth feel" is particularly representative of a very uniform deposit on the fibre.
  • composition according to the invention also makes it possible to improve the disentangling and the suppleness of the hair.
  • composition according to the invention is particularly suitable for sensitized hair, in particular damaged, split, brittle hair, to which it can provide strength, vitality, or even body, said hair thus appearing revitalized, repaired and reinforced.
  • composition according to the invention are in particular persistent with respect to shampooing, in particular at least three, or even five, shampooing operations.
  • the limits of a range of values are included within that range, especially in the expressions "between” and “ranging from ... to
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and/or salts thereof, of formula (la):
  • R1 represents a linear or branched C6-C10 alkyl or alkenyl radical, or a rad- ical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched C3-C7 alkyl or alkenyl radical,
  • - n is a number ranging from 2 to 24, - A denotes H, an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium, or a monoethan- olamine or triethanolamine residue.
  • R1 is a linear or branched C6-C10 alkyl radical, in particular a linear C6- C10, in particular Cs (capryl), alkyl radical.
  • n ranges from 2 to 16, better still from 3 to 12, even better still from 4 to 10, or is even equal to 6. It should be noted that “n” is generally an integer or may be a decimal (average value).
  • A denotes H, Na, K, Li, Mg or Ca, even better still A denotes H or Na.
  • said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts
  • alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts include monoeth- anolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino- methane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • R1 denotes a linear Cs alkyl radical
  • A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom
  • n ranges from 2 to 10.
  • the composition comprises capryleth-6 carboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof, in particular sodium salt.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises said polyoxy- alkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid(s) and/or salts thereof, of formula (la), in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, better still from 1 % to 10% by weight and preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and/or salts thereof, of formula (lb):
  • - n' is a number ranging from 2 to 24,
  • - A' denotes H, an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium, or a monoeth- anolamine or triethanolamine residue.
  • R'1 is a linear or branched C11-C24, for example C12-C18, or even C12- Ci 4 , alkyl radical; in particular a linear C11-C24, for example C12-C18, or even Ci2-Ci 4 , alkyl radical; in particular a lauryl or cocoyl radical.
  • R'1 may also be a linear or branched C11-C24, for example C12-C18, or even C12-C14, alkenyl radical; in particular a linear C11-C24, for example C12-C18, or even C12-C14, alkenyl radical; in particular an oleyl radical .
  • R'1 may be a nonyphenyl or octylphenyl radical.
  • n' ranges from 2 to 16, better still from 3 to 12, even better still from 4 to 10, or is even equal to 5. It should be noted that " ⁇ '" is generally an integer or may be a decimal (average value).
  • A denotes H, Na, K, Li, Mg or Ca, even better still A denotes H or Na.
  • said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts
  • alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts include monoeth- anolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino- methane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • R'1 denotes a linear C12 alkyl radical
  • A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom
  • n' ranges from 2 to 10.
  • the composition comprises laureth-5 carboxylic acid and/or a salt thereof, in particular sodium salt.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises said polyoxy- alkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acid(s) and/or salts thereof, of formula (lb), in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight and preferentially from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio between the amount of surfactant(s) of formula (la) and the amount of surfactant(s) of formula (lb) is greater than or equal to 0.1 , preferably greater than or equal to 0.5, in particular between 0.1 and 10, for example between 0.5 and 8.
  • the weight ratio between the amount of surfactant(s) of formula (la) and the amount of surfactant(s) of formula (lb) is greater than or equal to 1 , preferably greater than or equal to 1 .5, in particular between 1 and 10, for example between 1 .5 and 8.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(am- ido)ether carboxylic acids and/or salts thereof, of formulae (la) and (lb) described above.
  • additional anionic surfactants other than the polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(am- ido)ether carboxylic acids and/or salts thereof, of formulae (la) and (lb) described above.
  • the composition does not comprise anionic surfactants (less than 0.1 % by weight, in particular 0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition) other than those of formulae (la) and (lb) above.
  • anionic surfactant is intended to mean a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
  • a species is termed "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
  • the additional anionic surfactants are chosen from anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate and/or carboxylate groups, and/or mixtures thereof, preferably sulfate groups.
  • the additional anionic surfactant(s) may be oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated.
  • the total average number of ethylene oxide (EO) and/or propylene oxide (PO) groups may then range from 1 to 50 and especially from 1 to 10.
  • the carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus comprise at least one car- boxylic or carboxylate function.
  • acylglycinates can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; these compounds possibly being polyoxy- alkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarbox- ylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside- tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
  • carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • - acylglutamates especially of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
  • acylsarcosinates in particular of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsar- cosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;
  • acyllactylates in particular of C12-C28 or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function.
  • alkylsulfonates alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesul- fonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuc- cinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinat.es, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds;
  • alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;
  • aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group;
  • these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethyle- nated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function.
  • alkyl sulfates alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and the salts of these compounds;
  • alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;
  • aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group;
  • these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethyle- nated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • alkyl ether sulfates in particular of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magne- sium or calcium salt.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts
  • alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magne- sium or calcium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopro- panolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 - propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)ami- nomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts
  • C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units
  • acylsarcosinates in particular palmitoylsar- cosinates
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • anionic surfactants use is preferably made of one or more sulfate anionic surfactants, preferentially chosen from CS-CM and more particularly C12-C14 alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates, and more particularly lauryl (ether) sulfates.
  • the additional anionic surfactant(s) are in the form of salts, and in particular alkaline salts, especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, including amino alcohol salts, and/or magnesium salts.
  • alkaline salts especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, including amino alcohol salts, and/or magnesium salts.
  • These salts preferably comprise from 2 to 5 ethylene oxide groups.
  • the additional anionic surfactants may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 25% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even better still from 1 % to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a total amount of anionic surfactants (of formula (la), of formula (lb) and additional surfactants where appropriate) ranging from 0.1 % to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, better still from 1 % to 15% by weight and preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants.
  • amphoteric surfactants are non-silicone surfactants. They may especially be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for in- stance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • - R a represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R a COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a ⁇ -hydroxyethyl group; and
  • - M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • - X " represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci- C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M + and X " are absent; Ra'-CONHCH 2 CH2-N(B)(B') (III)
  • - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'
  • - ⁇ ' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2- COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;
  • - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ' or -CH 2 CH(OH)SO 3 H or the group CH 2 CH(OH)SO 3 -Z';
  • - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • R a ' represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a -COOH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a Ci7 group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group;
  • - Y represents the group -COOH, -COOZ" or -CH 2 -CH(OH)SO 3 H or the group CH 2 CH(OH)SO 3 -Z";
  • Rd and R e represent, independently of one another, a Ci to C 4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical
  • - Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • - Ra- represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra-COOH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil;
  • n denote, independently of one another, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
  • Mention may be made, among the compounds of formula (IV), of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl co- coaspartamide and sold by Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
  • amphoteric surfactants use is preferably made of (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines such as cocobetaine, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocami- dopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, and the compounds of formula (IV) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).
  • amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3- Cejalkylbetaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises the amphoteric surfactant(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferentially in a content ranging from 1 % to 15% by weight and better still from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants, in particular such as those described in "Handbook of Surfactants” by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pages 1 16-178.
  • non-ionic surfactants in particular such as those described in "Handbook of Surfactants” by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pages 1 16-178.
  • non-ionic surfactants examples include the following com- pounds, alone is a mixture:
  • the oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
  • the number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.
  • the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise any oxypropylene units.
  • glycerolated non-ionic surfactants use is preferably made of mono- glycerolated or polyglycerolated Cs to C 4 o alcohols, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol and preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol.
  • lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1 .5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
  • the Cs to Cio alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol it is more particularly preferred to use the Cs to Cio alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the Cio to C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1 .5 mol of glycerol.
  • the non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferentially chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C 4 o alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and preferably comprising one or two fatty chains;
  • - monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated Cs to C 4 o alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol and preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol;
  • non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C 4 o alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one C8-C20, in particular C10-C18, alkyl chain;
  • esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of sorbitol and
  • the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C 4 o alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising at least one Cs- C20 and especially C10-C18 alkyl chain; especially lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-4) and lauryl alcohol containing 12 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-12), and esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of sorbitol, which are preferably oxyethy
  • the composition according to the invention comprises the non-ionic surfactants) in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 25% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 20% by weight, preferentially from 3% to 15% by weight and better still from 4% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the in- vention.
  • the weight ratio of the total amount of anionic surfactants to the total amount of non-ionic surfactants is less than or equal to 5; preferably, this weight ratio ranges from 0.1 to 5, more preferentially ranges from 0.2 to 4.5, even more preferentially ranges from 0.3 to 4, better still ranges from 0.35 to 3, and even better still from 0.4 to 2.5.
  • the weight ratio of the total amount of anionic surfactants to the total amount of non-ionic surfactants is less than or equal to 1 , preferably between 0.1 and 1 , better still from 0.2 to 1 and even better still from 0.35 to 0.95.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises the anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants in a total content ranging from 8% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, preferentially from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more polymers chosen from cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • cationic polymer denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
  • the cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5x10 6 approximately and preferably between 10 3 and 3x10 6 approximately.
  • Mw weight-average molar mass
  • the cationic polymers that can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be chosen from:
  • R3 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical
  • A which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • R 4 , R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • Ri and R2 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably a methyl or ethyl radical;
  • X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the polymers of family (1 ) may also contain one or more units derived from comon- omers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, di- acetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (Ci-C 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • comon- omers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, di- acetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (Ci-C 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • the crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C 4 )alkyl tri(Ci-C 4 )alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, more particularly methylenebisacrylamide.
  • Use may more particularly be made of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil.
  • This dispersion is sold under the name Sal- care ® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
  • Use may also be made of a crosslinked homo- polymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing approxi- mately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare ® SC 95 and Salcare ® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
  • Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as those described in French patent 1 492 597, and in particular polymers sold under the names Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
  • Cationic guar gums in particular those described more particularly in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups.
  • Guar gums modified with a salt (for example chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyltri- methylammonium are used, for example.
  • Such products are sold in particular under the trade names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 or Jaguar C162 by the company Rhodia.
  • Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldia- mine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyamino
  • Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene pol- yamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid-dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldial- kylenetriamine copolymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl radicals.
  • alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl radicals.
  • Such polymers are in particular described in French patent 1 583 363;
  • Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 3 227 615 and 2 961 347;
  • k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + t being equal to 1 ;
  • R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • R7 and Rs independently of one another, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyi group in which the alkyl group preferably contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a (Ci-C 4 ) lower amidoalkyl group, or R 7 and Rs may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R 7 and Rs, independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • R10, R11 , R12 and R13 which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicy-rod or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or lower hydroxy- alkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively R10, R11 , R12 and R13, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R10, R11 , R12 and R13 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O-Ri 4 -D or -CO-NH-Ri 4 -D where Ri 4 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
  • Ai and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
  • X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid
  • Ai, Rio and R12 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;
  • Bi may also denote a group
  • x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4 representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
  • a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative
  • X " is an anion, such as chloride or bromide.
  • These polymers have a number-average molecular weight generally between 1 ,000 and 100 000.
  • R10, Rn, R12 and Ri 3 which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyi radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 8 approximately, and X " is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. Mention may be made in particular of Mexomere PO sold by the company Chimex.
  • D may be zero or may represent a group -(Ch V-CO- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, and X " is an anion.
  • polymers examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol A 15, Mirapol AD1 , Mirapol AZ1 and Mirapol 175 sold by the company Mi- ranol.
  • Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.
  • These polymers may also comprise other monomers, such as diallyldi- alkylammonium halides. Mention may be made in particular of the product sold under the name Luviquat Sensation by the company BASF.
  • Cationic polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by Henkel, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary, or oxyethylenated (15 OE) coconut polyamines.
  • Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are poly- alkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, polyquaternary ureylenes and chitin derivatives.
  • cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present in- vention, it is preferred to use the polymers of families (1 ), (2), (3), (4), (9), (10) and (12), more particularly the polymers of families (2) and (9), and better still the polymers of family (9).
  • the composition comprises one or more cationic polymers having a cat- ionic charge density greater than or equal to 3 milliequivalents/gram (meq/g), preferably greater than or equal to 4 meq/g, better still greater than or equal to 5 meq/g, for example ranging from 3 to 20 meq/g, in particular from 4 to 20 meq/g, or even from 5 to 18 meq/g.
  • meq/g milliequivalents/gram
  • the cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions in which it is totally ionized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar proportion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.
  • the cationic polymers are chosen from crosslinked polymers of meth- acryloyloxy(Ci-C 4 )alkyl tri(Ci-C 4 )alkylammonium salts, and alkyldiallylamine or dial- kyldiallylammonium copolymers, and even more preferentially from homopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Polyquaternium 6), copolymers of diallyldime- thylammonium chloride and of acrylamide (Polyquaternium 7), and homopolymers of 2-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride (Polyquaternium-37).
  • composition according to the invention preferably comprises the cationic poly- mer(s) in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and preferentially from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • amphoteric polymer denotes any non-silicone (not comprising any silicon atoms) polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and also anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
  • the amphoteric polymer(s) may be chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of:
  • the units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer are units of structure (la) below:
  • Ri denotes H or Chb and R2 is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert- butylamino, dodecylamino and -NH-CH2OH radical.
  • said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (la).
  • the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type of formula (la) in which Ri denotes H and R2 is an amino radical (NH2) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer per se.
  • the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkyl nium type are units of structure (I la) below:
  • R 4 denotes a group (Ch jk, with k being an integer ranging from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 4;
  • R5 - R5, R6 and R 7 which may be identical or different, denote a Ci-C 4 alkyl
  • - Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (lla).
  • the ones that are preferred are those derived from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R3 denotes a methyl radical, k is equal to 3, R5, R6 and R 7 denote a methyl radical, and Y ⁇ denotes a chloride anion.
  • the units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type are units of formula (Ilia):
  • the preferred units of formula (Ilia) correspond to the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers.
  • the unit derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type of formula (Ilia) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which Rs denotes a hydrogen atom and R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical.
  • the acidic monomer(s) of (meth)acrylic acid type may be non-neutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
  • said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (Ilia).
  • the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i).
  • they comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a (meth)acrylamide- type monomer.
  • the content of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammo- nium type (ii) may advantageously be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferentially from 20 mol% to 55 mol%.
  • the content of units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) may advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferentially from 5 mol% to 15 mol%.
  • amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:
  • Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional units, other than the units derived from a (meth)acrylamide-type monomer, a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrial- kylammonium-type monomer and a (meth)acrylic acid-type monomer as described above.
  • said amphoteric polymers are constituted solely of units derived from monomers of (meth)acrylamide type (i), of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) and of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).
  • amphoteric polymers of acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpol- ymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA dictionary (INCI) under the name "Polyquaternium 53". Corresponding products are in particular sold under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by Nalco.
  • amphoteric polymer As another type of amphoteric polymer that may be used, mention may also be made of copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chlo- ride.
  • copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and on a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of dimethyldiallylammonium chlo- ride.
  • An example that may be mentioned is Merquat 280 sold by the company Nalco.
  • the composition comprises one or more cationic polymers, and does not comprise amphoteric polymer.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise the amphoteric polymers) in an amount of between 0.01 % and 15% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 10% by weight and preferentially from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise the polymer(s) chosen from the cationic polymers and the amphoteric polymers in a total amount of between 0.01 % and 15% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 10% by weight and preferentially from 0.1 % to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compo- sition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more organosilanes.
  • organosilane(s) that can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (I) and/or hydrolysis products thereof and/or oligomers thereof:
  • Ri is a cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci to C22, in particular C2 to C20, hydrocarbon-based chain, which may be substituted with one or more group(s) chosen from amine groups NH2 or NHR, R being a linear or branched Ci to C20, in particular Ci to C6, alkyl, or a C3 to C 4 o cycloalkyl or a C6 to C30 aromatic radical; the hydroxyl group; a thiol group; an aryl group, more particularly benzyl, which is unsubstituted or substituted with an NH2 or NHR group; it being possible for Ri to be interrupted with an oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen heteroatom or a carbonyl group;
  • R2 and R3 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
  • - y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3
  • - z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3
  • - x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2
  • oligomer is intended to mean the polymerization products of the compounds of formula (I) comprising from 2 to 10 silicon atoms.
  • Ri is a linear or branched, more preferentially linear, saturated Ci to C22, in particular C2 to C12, hydrocarbon-based chain, which may be substituted with one or more amine group(s) NH2 or NHR, R being a Ci to C20, in particular Ci to C6, alkyl.
  • R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferentially a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and in particular an ethyl group.
  • z ranges from 1 to 3.
  • y is equal to 0.
  • z is equal to 3.
  • x and y are equal to 0 and z is equal to 0.
  • the organosilane(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) in which Ri represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 7 to 12 carbon atoms, or a Ci to C6, preferably C2 to C 4 , aminoalkyl group.
  • Ri represents an octyl group.
  • the organosilane(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) in which Ri is a linear or branched, saturated or unsatu- rated Ci to C22 hydrocarbon-based chain, substituted with one or more amine groups NH2 or NHR, R being a linear or branched Ci to C20, preferably Ci to C6, alkyl, or a C3 to C 4 o cycloalkyl or a C6 to C30 aromatic ring.
  • Ri represents a Ci to C6 and more preferentially C2 to C 4 aminoalkyl group.
  • the organosilane(s) that can be used according to the invention are chosen from octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, hex- adecyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 2-aminoethyltriethoxysilane, 3- aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-(m-aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N-(2- aminoethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane, hydrolysis products thereof, oligomers thereof and mixtures thereof.
  • the organosilanes are chosen from octyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, hydrolysis products thereof, oligomers thereof and mixtures thereof; and particularly preferably, the organosilane is 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES).
  • APTES 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane
  • the organosilanes used in the composition of the invention may be partially or totally neutralized in order to improve the water solubility thereof.
  • the neutralizing agent can be chosen from organic or mineral acids, preferably from saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated carboxylic organic acids; mention may be made of citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid and hydrochloric acid, preferentially lactic acid.
  • the composition preferably comprises the organosilane(s) in a content of from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 1 % to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • the composition may comprise the organic or mineral acid(s), when they are present, in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 8/ Other ingredients
  • composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from Ci-C 4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.
  • Ci-C 4 alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol
  • polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols
  • the composition according to the invention has a total water content of between 40% and 95% by weight, preferably between 50% and 90%, preferentially between 60% and 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the compositions according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 8, preferably from 3.5 to 7 and better still from 4 to 6.5.
  • composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more preferably non-silicone, liquid fatty substances which can be advantageously chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty esters, hydrocarbons, oils of animal origin, plant oils, in particular of triglyceride type, synthetic triglycerides, and mixtures thereof; prefer- entially chosen from mineral oils (or hydrocarbons), plant oils, in particular of triglyceride type, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives that are conventional in cosmetics, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators different from the cationic or amphoteric polymers described above; ceramides, vitamins or provitamins; amphoteric or anionic polymers; pH agents, preservatives; dyes; fragrances.
  • additives that are conventional in cosmetics, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators different from the cationic or amphoteric polymers described above; ceramides, vitamins or provitamins; amphoteric or anionic polymers; pH agents, preservatives; dyes; fragrances.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, using said composition.
  • the composition according to the invention may be applied to dry or wet keratin fibres, preferably wet keratin fibres.
  • this process consists in particular in applying the composition according to the invention to dry or wet keratin fibres, preferably wet keratin fibres, after a step of washing said fibres, for example with a shampoo.
  • This is a use of the composition according to the invention as a conditioner.
  • this process consists in particular in applying the composition according to the invention to dry or wet keratin fibres, preferably wet keratin fibres, prior to a step of washing said fibres, for example with a shampoo.
  • This is a use of the composition according to the invention as a pre-shampoo.
  • this process consists in particular in ap- plying the composition according to the invention to dry or wet keratin fibres, preferably wet keratin fibres.
  • This is a use of the composition according to the invention as a shampoo.
  • composition according to the present invention is generally applied with a leave- on time that may range from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.
  • the keratin fibres are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry.
  • the composition according to the invention can be used before a shampoo (as a pre-shampoo) or as a care product, preferably to be rinsed off after a shampoo (as a conditioner), or even as a shampoo.
  • the present invention relates to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, in particular for conferring conditioning properties on said fibres, said conditioning properties advantageously being persistent with respect to several shampooing operations; in particular feel properties, in particular properties giving a soft, natural, non-laden and non-greasy feel, and/or disentangling, smoothness (smooth touch and/or visual smoothness) and/or suppleness properties.
  • Example 1 The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
  • Example 1 The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
  • compositions A and B according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed by weight of active material (%AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions which can be used as a pre-shampoo or as a conditioner are obtained.
  • compositions C and D according to the invention and parative compositions E and F are prepared ( % by weight AM).
  • the shampoo composition to be tested is then applied to a lock of wet hair, in a proportion of 0.4 g of composition per gram of hair. It is left on for 5 minutes and then rinsed off with water (35°C, flow rate 300 l/h).
  • composition E which comprises only laureth-5 car- boxylic acid as anionic surfactant, is not always rinsed off. Evaluation of persistence
  • the locks thus rinsed are then subjected to a cycle of 5 shampooing operations with a DOP shampoo (0.4 g of shampoo per gram of hair), each shampooing operation being followed by rinsing with water (35°C, flow rate 300 l/h).
  • a panel of 3 experts gives a sensory evaluation of the criteria of disentangling, smoothness to the touch and suppleness of the locks, on wet hair, giving a score of 0 to 5 (in increments of 0.5).
  • compositions according to the invention always exhibit a persistence of the effects after 5 shampooing operations, whereas comparative composition F, which comprises only capryleth-6 carboxylic acid as anionic surfactant, has no persistent effect at 5 shampooing operations.
  • compositions according to the invention have both good rinsability and persistence of the care effects after 5 shampooing operations.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique comprenant : - des acides carboxyliques de type éther d'alkyl(amido) polyoxyalkylénés à chaîne courte, - des acides carboxyliques de type éther d'alkyl(amido) polyoxyalkylénés à chaîne longue, - des tensioactifs non ioniques et des tensioactifs amphotères, et - des polymères cationiques ou amphotères. Un procédé de traitement cosmétique des cheveux à l'aide de ladite composition, ainsi que l'utilisation de ladite composition pour le traitement cosmétique des cheveux afin de leur conférer des propriétés de conditionnement, où lesdites propriétés de conditionnement persistent avantageusement pendant plusieurs opérations de shampoing, sont en outre décrits.
PCT/EP2018/066824 2017-06-30 2018-06-22 Composition cosmétique comprenant un mélange de tensioactifs carboxyliques particuliers, de tensioactifs non ioniques et amphotères, et de polymères cationiques, procédé de traitement cosmétique et son utilisation WO2019002150A1 (fr)

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CN110229655A (zh) * 2019-08-07 2019-09-13 山东新港化工有限公司 多羟基非离子表面活性剂及其制备方法和应用

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FR3104967B1 (fr) * 2019-12-18 2022-08-05 Oreal Procédé de traitement capillaire

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