WO2018158391A1

WO2018158391A1 - Natural fabrics comprising rose fiber

Info

Publication number: WO2018158391A1
Application number: PCT/EP2018/055094
Authority: WO
Inventors: Regina Polanco; Omar Benomar
Original assignee: Regina Polanco; Omar Benomar
Priority date: 2017-03-01
Filing date: 2018-03-01
Publication date: 2018-09-07
Also published as: JP2020509258A; EP3369847A1; EP3589779A1; US20200123685A1

Abstract

The present invention provides a composition of a fabric. The fabric comprises a proportion of 20 % to 50 % rose fiber yarn and a proportion of at least one structural yarn. Proportions of soft and/or elastic yarns may be added.

Description

Natural fabrics comprising rose fiber

Field of the invention

The present invention relates to a composition for producing a fabric comprising rose fiber.

Background of the invention

Functional textiles are made of fabrics with functional benefits such as waterproof, windproof, UV-protecting, breathable or thermo-regulating properties. Conventional functional textiles that are UV-protecting, breathable and thermo-regulating contain textured synthetic yarns. The production of such fabrics is neither sustainable nor are the fabrics biodegradable.

Thermoregulation, UV-protection, moisture absorption and perspiration are also benefits of natural fibers of animal origin like cashmere. Rose fibers are an alternative of plant origin. Rose fibers are short protein-enriched cellulose fibers which have a silky shine, a very smooth texture and functional benefits such as thermoregulation, UV-protection, perspiration and moisture absorption. Furthermore, rose fibers reflect infrared-irradiation and react to the pH of the skin. For producing fabrics comprising yarns made of rose fiber, the rose fiber yarns have to be mixed with other yarns. Hereby, several obstacles, which include pilling effects and detaching of rose fibers from the fabric, had to be overcome. Furthermore, rose fibers tend to show high shrinkage after washing.

The problem underlying the present invention is to provide a fabric comprising a yarn made of rose fibers. This problem is solved by the subject-matter of the independent claims. Terms and definitions

In the context of the present specification, the term "yarn" refers to spun yarn, filament yarn, texturized yarn. A yarn may be produced from one fiber type (e.g. 100 % cotton) or from more than one fiber type (blends, e.g. 50% cotton / 50% bamboo or 30% nylon / 27% cotton / 24% acrylic / 10% silk / 9% linen).

In the context of the present specification, the term "rose fiber" refers to a protein-enriched cellulose fiber, particularly a blend of cellulose and rice protein. Synonyms for "rose fiber" are "rousi fiber" and "rose fiber viscose". The raw material of rose fiber is derived from plants. It is a kind of modified protein plant fiber with excellent soft hand feel. In particular, the protein is rice protein. It is a biodegradable, anti-UV, environmental friendly fiber. Since it contains protein, it is good to skin health, and after dyeing the color is very bright and pleasing. The handfeel is fairly soft like the surface of the rose leaf, so it called rose fiber. However, rose fiber does not necessarily have to be derived from rose bushes. Rose fiber is produced by viscose spinning. Rose fiber is a fiber comprising mainly cellulose and approximately 5 % protein, particularly rose fiber is a fiber purchased from Chinese New Fiber Alliance Association as discussed below. Rose fibers are functional/active fibers that are characterized by functional benefits such as thermoregulation, UV-protection, perspiration and moisture absorption. Furthermore, rose fibers reflect infrared-irradiation and react to the pH of the skin.

In the context of the present specification, the term "rose fiber yarn" refers to a spun yarn consisting of rose fiber. Examples for rose fiber yarns are summarized in Table 1 . Rose fiber yarn for producing the fabrics according to the invention were purchased from Chinese New Fiber Alliance Association, Overseas marketing & sales: SHANGHAI TENBRO BAMBOO TEXTILE CO., LTD, Second floor, building A, lane 685 jinzhong road, Shanghai, China. (www.tenbro.com). In Table 2 and Table 3, available specifications of rose fibers and physical indices are listed.

Table 1 : Properties of rose fiber yarns

Table 2: Specifications of rose fibers of the SHANGHAI TENBRO BAMBOO TEXTILE CO., LTD.

Table 3: Physical Index of rose fibers of the SHANGHAI TENBRO BAMBOO TEXTILE CO., LTD.

In the context of the present specification, the term "count" refers to the linear density of a fiber or yarn. Units for count are tex (mass in grams per 1000 meter), dtex (decitex, mass in grams per 10000 meter), Ne (Number english) or Nm (Number metric). Ne is defined as the number of hanks (840 yd or 770 m) of skein material that weigh 1 pound (0.45 kg). Nm is defined as the length in meters per 1 gram. In the context of the present specification, the term "tenacity" refers to the force required to break the fiber in relation to its linear density. The unit for tenacity is Newton [N] / tex. The unit "tex" refers to the linear mass density of fibers defined as the mass in grams per 1000 meter.

In the context of the present specification, the term "elongation at break" refers to the elongation of the fiber that is necessary for breaking the fiber. "Breaking extension" is a synonymous term for "elongation at break". The elongation is expressed in percent [%] of the initial fiber length. In the context of the present specification, the term "structural yarn" refers to yarns that contribute to the durability and tear resistance of textiles. Structural yarns consist of structural fibers. In particular, structural fibers are characterized by a tenacity of 0.15 N/tex to 0.85 N/tex and an elongation at break of 2 % to 46 %. Structural fibers are synthetic, semi- synthetic or of plant origin. Non-limiting examples of structural fibers comprise cotton, viscose, lyocell, modal, cellulose triacetate, cupro, linen, hemp, ramie, bamboo, sisal, polyester and polyamide such as nylon or perlon. Particularly, a structural yarn consists of one or more types of fibers selected from cotton, viscose, linen, polyester and polyamide, more particularly from cotton or viscose.

In the context of the present specification, the term "soft yarn" refers to yarns that contribute to comfortable, smooth haptics and thermal insulation of the textile. Soft yarns consist of soft fibers. In particular, soft yarns are made of protein fibers or synthetic alternatives (e.g. acrylic) thereof. Non-limiting examples of soft fibers comprise cashmere, merino wool, mohair, qiviut, angora, alpaca, llama, camel hair, vicuna, aralac, silk and acrylic. Particularly, a soft yarn consists of one or more types of fibers selected from cashmere, merino wool, llama, silk and acrylic, more particularly from cashmere, silk and acrylic.

In the context of the present specification, the term "elastic yarn" refers to yarns that contribute to the elasticity and shape recovery of the textile. Elastic yarns consist of elastic fibers. In particular, elastic fibers are characterized by an elongation at break of 300 % to 650 %. Non-limiting examples for elastic fibers are elastane and elastolefin.

Fiber types described above are defined according to DIRECTIVE 2008/121/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 14 January 2009 on textile names (recast), Annex I; Official Journal of the European Union L19/29, 23.1 .2009.

Description of the invention

According to a first aspect of the invention, a fabric comprising a proportion of 20 % to 50 % rose fiber yarn and a proportion of at least one structural yarn is provided. The sum of fiber proportions does not exceed 100 %. For example, the proportion of structural yarn of a fabric consisting of 20 % rose fiber yarn and one structural yarn is 80 %.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 20 % to 45 % rose fiber yarn, in particular 20 % to 40 %, more particularly 25 % to 40%.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 20 to 45 % rose fiber.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 20 to 35 % rose fiber.

In particular a rose fiber proportion of 20 to 35 % allows fast and cost-effective production of fabrics according to the invention. Furthermore, a rose fiber proportion of 20 to 35 % is sufficient that the functional benefits of the rose fiber such as thermoregulation, UV- protection, perspiration, moisture absorption and reflection of infrared-irradiation also apply for the fabric.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 25 to 35 % rose fiber. In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 25 to 30 % rose fiber.

In certain embodiment, the fabric comprises 30 to 45 % rose fiber.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 35 to 40 % rose fiber.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises additionally a proportion of at least one soft yarn.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises additionally a proportion of at least one elastic yarn.

In certain embodiments, the proportion of the at least one soft yarn is 1-20 %.

In certain embodiments, the proportion of the at least one soft yarn is 1-15 %.

In certain embodiments, the proportion of the at least one soft yarn is 6-12 %.

In certain embodiments, the proportion of at least one elastic yarn is 1 -10.

In certain embodiments, the proportion of at least one elastic yarn is 1 -5 %.

In certain embodiments, the proportion of at least one elastic yarn is 2-4 %.

The sum of fiber proportions does not exceed 100 %.

In certain embodiments, the proportion of the at least one structural yarn P_str is calculated according to equation (1 ),

wherein P is the sum all of yarn proportions except of P_st_r and P_st_r is the fiber proportion of one or more structural yarns.

The following example will demonstrate the calculation of the structural yarn proportion of a fabric comprising rose fiber yarn, viscose yarn, cashmere yarn and elastane yarn. Given are the proportions of 26 % rose fiber yarn, 7 % cashmere yarn as a soft yarn, 3 % elastane yarn as an elastic yarn. The proportion of viscose yarn as a structural yarn is calculated as follows.

First, the sum of all yarn proportions except of the proportion of at least one structural yarn (P) has to be calculated:

P = 26 % (rose fiber yarn) + 7 % (soft yarn) + 3 % (elastic yarn) = 36 % The proportion of the structural yarn (P_str) is calculated according to equation (1 ):

If the fabric comprises 26 % rose fiber yarn, 7 % cashmere yarn as a soft yarn, 3 % elastane yarn as an elastic yarn and two structural yarns (e.g. cotton yarn and polyester yarn, cotton yarn and viscose yarn, polyester yarn and acrylic yarn, lyocell yarn and cotton yarn) in the same proportions with respect to the structural yarns (in other words 50 % cotton yarn and 50 % polyester yarn), the calculation is as follows.

P = 26 % (rose fiber yarn) + 7 % (soft yarn) + 3 % (elastic yarn) = 36 %

P_str = 100 % - 36 % = 64 %, wherein P_str is the sum of the proportion of cotton yarn and the proportion of polyester yarn. Thus, the proportion of cotton yarn and polyester yarn with respect to the fabric is 32 % each.

Proportions refer to weight proportions of the yarns. The weight of additives such as dyes or impregnating agents is not considered in calculating the yarn proportions.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 25 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn and said proportion P_str of the at least one structural yarn, wherein the proportion P_str is calculated as described above.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 25 % to 35 % rose fiber yarn and said proportion P_str of the at least one structural yarn, wherein the proportion P_str is calculated as described above.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 35 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn and said proportion P_str of the at least one structural yarn, wherein the proportion P_str is calculated as described above.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 25 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn and 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, wherein the proportion P_str is calculated as described above.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 25 % to 35 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn and 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, wherein the proportion P_str is calculated as described above.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 35 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn and 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, wherein the proportion P_str is calculated as described above. In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 25 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion P_str of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, wherein the proportion P_str is calculated as described above.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 25 % to 35 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, wherein the proportion P_str is calculated as described above.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 35 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion P_str of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, wherein the proportion P_str is calculated as described above.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 25 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn, wherein the proportion P_str is calculated as described above.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 25 % to 35 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn, wherein the proportion P_str is calculated as described above.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 35 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn, wherein the proportion P_str is calculated as described above.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 20 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn and said proportion P_str of the at least one structural yarn, wherein the proportion P_str is calculated as described above.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 20 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn or 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, wherein the proportion P_str is calculated as described above.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 20 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn and 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, wherein the proportion P_str is calculated as described above.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 25 % to 30 % rose fiber yarn and said proportion P_str of the at least one structural yarn, wherein the proportion P_str is calculated as described above.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 25 % to 30 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn or 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, wherein the proportion P_str is calculated as described above.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises 25 % to 30 % rose fiber yarn, said proportion Pstr of the at least one structural yarn and additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn and 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, wherein the proportion P_str is calculated as described above.

In certain embodiments, the structural yarn comprises cotton, viscose, lyocell, modal, cellulose triacetate, cupro, linen, silk, hemp, ramie, bamboo, sisal, polyester, nylon or a combination thereof.

In certain embodiments, the structural yarn consist of cotton, viscose, lyocell, modal, cellulose triacetate, cupro, linen, silk, hemp, ramie, bamboo, sisal, polyester, nylon or a combination thereof.

In certain embodiments, the structural yarn comprises cotton or viscose.

In certain embodiments, the structural yarn consists of cotton or viscose.

In certain embodiments, the structural yarn consists of one or more types of fibers selected from cotton, viscose, linen, polyester and polyamide, more particularly from cotton or viscose.

In certain embodiments, the structural yarn consists of one or two, particularly one, types of fibers selected from cotton, viscose, linen, polyester and polyamide, more particularly from cotton or viscose.

In certain embodiments, the soft yarn comprises, in particular consists of, cashmere, merino wool, mohair, qiviut, angora, alpaca, llama, camel hair, vicuna, aralac and acrylic or a combination thereof, in particular cashmere.

In certain embodiments, the soft yarn comprises cashmere, merino wool, mohair, qiviut, angora, alpaca, llama, camel hair, vicuna, aralac and acrylic or a combination thereof.

In certain embodiments, the soft yarn consists of cashmere, merino wool, mohair, qiviut, angora, alpaca, llama, camel hair, vicuna, aralac and acrylic or a combination thereof. In certain embodiments, the soft yarn comprises cashmere.

In certain embodiment, the soft yarn consists of cashmere.

In certain embodiments, the soft yarn comprises one or more types of fibers selected from cashmere, merino wool, llama, silk and acrylic, more particularly from cashmere, silk and acrylic.

In certain embodiments, the soft yarn consists of one or more types of fibers selected from cashmere, merino wool, llama, silk and acrylic, more particularly from cashmere, silk and acrylic.

In certain embodiments, the soft yarn comprises one or two, particularly one, types of fibers selected from cashmere, merino wool, llama, silk and acrylic, more particularly from cashmere, silk and acrylic.

In certain embodiments, the soft yarn consists of one or two, particularly one, types of fibers selected from cashmere, merino wool, llama, silk and acrylic, more particularly from cashmere, silk and acrylic.

In certain embodiments, the elastic yarn comprises elastane.

In certain embodiments, the elastic yarn consists of elastane.

In certain embodiments, the fabric is knitted.

Examples for knitted fabrics are single jersey or interlock jersey.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises at least two yarns, which are connected in such a way that one side of the fabric comprises at least a first yarn and the other side of the fabric comprises at a second yarn, wherein said first yarn is rose fiber yarn and said second yarn is a structural yarn as defined above.

In certain embodiments, the two yarns are connected by weaving, knitting or gluing.

In certain embodiments, the two yarns are connected by weaving.

The two yarns are interwoven in such a way that the first yarn forms a napped structure and the second yarn forms a smooth surface.

In certain embodiments, the fabric comprises at least two yarns which are knitted to form a jersey with a looped back.

In certain embodiments, knitting stitches of the jersey with a looped back are formed from a structural yarn.

In certain embodiments, the looped back of the jersey with a looped back are formed from a rose fiber yarn. If a functional textile is produced from the fabric made of two yarns, the napped structure is the side that contacts the skin and it is made of the first yarn. The smooth side of the fabric is made of the second yarn.

Examples Example 1: Fabrics made of 100 % rose fiber yarn

Five fabrics were produced using 100 % rose fiber yarn with a count of Ne 30/1 by standard weaving and finishing processes. The first fabric was produced in black and grey, all other fabrics only in black.

The first fabric was produces by standard weaving and finishing processes including dying, opening, napping, stentering, compacting (KLS finishing), resin finish (Resin center MF-LF; melamin resin, non-ionic, 120°-C pre-drying, 150°-C cross-linked for 5 minutes) resulting in a plush structure with napped (carded) treatment. The resulting fabric is characterized by a very soft texture. On the napped side, the fabric detaches and loses a lot of fiber. The peeling performance is bad (peeling test value 1 , wherein the possible range of peeling test values are integers between 1 and 5) as the rose fiber is too short for the napping treatment. The shrinkage after the first washing was very high but within the normal range of fabrics made of cellulose fibers. Aiming to produce a fabric with improved properties, the production processes were altered as described in the following.

Using another less invasive napping technique did not improve the properties of the fabric. The second fabric had the same properties as the first fabric.

Using a different resin finish resulted in a more compact and pressed but less soft fabric. Also here, a plush structure was created followed by napped (carded) treatment. The peeling performance (peeling test value 2) is better compared to the first and second fabric. However, fibers still detached from the napped side. The shrinkage after the first washing was very high.

Leaving out the napping step resulted in a good peeling performance (peeling value 4/5 after 25 washing cycles). The fabric had a plush/fleece structure. Still, the shrinkage after the first washing was very high.

If the napping step was replaced by buffing and grinding, the peeling value decreased back to 1 . On the buffed side, the fabric (plush/fleece structure) detaches and loses a lot of fiber. Thus, the rose fibers are too short for the buffing technique. The shrinkage after the first washing was very high. Taken together, it was not possible to produce a fabric made of 100 % rose yarn with a good peeling performance and low shrinkage.

Peeling in the context of the present application means pilling.

Example 2: Fabrics made of 50 - 70 % rose fiber yarn and other yarns (structural, elastic) In a next optimization process, a structural yarn or a structural and an elastic yarn were added to the rose fiber yarn (count of Ne 30/1 ). The fabrics made of a mixture of yarns were produced in black.

A fabric made of 70 % rose fiber yarn and 30 % cotton yarn was produced by standard weaving and finishing processes including dying, opening, napping, stentering, compacting (KLS finishing), resin finish (Resin center MF-LF; melamin resin, non-ionic, 120°-C pre- drying, 150°-C cross-linked for 5 minutes). The fabric was created with a plush structure with a napped (carded) treatment. The fabric showed a reduced softness compared to the fabrics made of 100 % rose fiber yarn since cotton fibers are less soft than rose fibers. The napped structure was formed by cotton fibers and more compact and pressed compared to the fabrics made of 100 % rose fiber yarn. If a textile is made of the fabric made of 70 % rose fiber yarn and 30 % cotton yarn, the side with the napped structure would be the side that contacts the skin. As the rose fiber is the active fiber that exerts beneficial properties such as thermoregulation, perfusion, moisture absorption and pH regulation, this fabric is not ideal for the production of functional textiles. The coloring of both fiber types was the same. Being the fabric 100% made of natural fibers, the shrinkage was very high after the first washing.

In a next step, the cotton yarn was replaced by polyester yarn. The fabric was created with a plush structure with a napped (carded) treatment. The polyester yarn formed the napping structure that was compacted and pressed and not soft. For the same reasons as discussed above, this fabric is not ideal for producing functional textiles. In contrast to the fabric that comprises 70 % rose fiber yarn and 30 % cotton yarn, the dimensional stability of the fabric was enhanced. After the first washing, the shrinkage was low. As polyester is a synthetic fiber and the rose fiber is of natural origin, the dying process is complicated and the resulting coloring was different for both fibers. The napped structure (polyester) was lighter than the rose fibers.

A fabric (fleece of 330 gr, 220 gr and 180 gr) made of 67 % rose fiber yarn, 30 % microfiber yarn and 3 % elastane yarn showed a good peeling performance (peeling value 4/5 after 25 washing cycles) and no shrinking after washing. However, even after a softness treatment after washing, the fabric was not soft. Furthermore, the black dying resulted in different coloring of the fibers. A fabric made of 50 % rose fiber yarn and 50 % yarn consisting of recycled polyester showed no shrinking after washing, was easy to iron but not soft and the black dying resulted in different coloring of the fibers.

Further trials using different compositions of rose fiber yarn in combination with different types of elastane, lycra, polyester and undyed cotton did not improve the properties of the fabrics.

Taken together, it was not possible to produce a soft, evenly dyed fabric with a good peeling performance and low shrinkage after washing that comprises 50 to 70 % rose fiber yarn.

Example 3: Fabrics made of up to 40 % rose fiber yarn and other yarns (structural, elastic, soft)

By reducing the rose fiber yarn (Ne 30/1 ) proportion equal or below 40 % in fabrics comprising cotton yarn or viscose yarn and optionally cashmere yarn (below 10 %) and elastane yarn (3 %), four fabrics (see Table 2) without considerable shrinkage and good peeling performance were achieved.

Table 2: Compositions of fabrics made of up to 40 % rose fiber yarn and other yarns.

cotton 51 62 65

cashmere 7 9

Given are the fiber proportions in %.

Fabric A was knitted in circular machines in raw, then washed and treated. After being dried, the fleece was ironed with vapour to give balance and improve shrinkage values. Fabric A was knitted in such a way that both sides of the fabric are the same.

As the inventors aimed to produce functional textiles from the fabrics comprising rose fiber yarns, the UV (ultraviolet) protection, IR (infra-red) reflection, thermal resistance and water- vapor resistance of fabric A was tested.

The UV protection test was performed under normal climate conditions (20 °C, 65 % relative humidity) without elongation using the Labsphere Transmittance Analyzer. For calculation of the UPF (ultraviolet protection factor) rating, the solar spectrum Melbourne, 17^th January was used. Transmission results are mean values of 10 measurements in UV-A (315 nm to 400 nm) and UV-B (280 nm to 315 nm). The UV-A transmittance as well as the UV-B transmittance of fabric A was 0.05 %. This corresponds to an UPF rating of 50+.

The IR reflection was measured at the Spectral photometer Lambda 900 (PERKIN-ELMER Corp., USA) at 150 mm sphere, 8 ° sample slope to the orthogonal axis of light. Remission values R were three measurements from different areas of the sample in diagonal, parallel and orthogonal direction to the length of measured area. Mean values are given in percent (%)^■

The remission of infra-red radiation between 820 nm and 1330 nm of fabric A is between 70 % and 80 %.

The thermal resistance and the water-vapour resistance were determined in accordance with DIN EN ISO 1 1092: 2014-12. The water-vapour transmission index was calculated in accordance with DIN EN ISO 1 1092: 2014-12.

Fabric A is characterized by a thermal resistance of 0.034 m²K/W, a water-vapor resistance of 5.3 m²Pa/W and a water-vapor transmission index /_mt of 0.39. /_mt-values may range from 0 to 1 , wherein an /_mt-value of 0 means that the fabric does not transmit water vapour. The /^'mt- values determined for farbric A are high compared to other fabrics: Suite and clothing material is characterized by /_mt-values between 0.15 and 0.35, shirt material is characterized by /_mt-values between 0.20 and 0.45 and jump suit material is characterized by /_mt-values between 0.25 and 0.4 (Ralf-Dieter Reumann, "Prijfverfahren in der Textil- und Bekleidungstechnik", Springer Verlag Berlin Heidelberg 2000, chapter 7.9 „Bekleidungsphysiologische Eigenschaften", page 679, ISBN:3-540-66147-6).

As rose fibers are characterized by functional benefits such as thermoregulation, UV- protection, perspiration, moisture absorption, reflection of infrared-irradiation and responding to the pH of the skin, the next aim was to enhance the rose fiber proportion of the fabric. Furthermore, a knitting technique was applied that results in a fabric with a smooth surface on one side and a napped surface on the other side. Here, one yarn (rose fiber yarn) forms the napped surface. If a textile is produced from such "two-sided" fabrics, the napped surface comprising mainly rose fiber would form the side that contacts the skin and the smooth surface would form the visible side comprising mainly cotton or cotton and cashmere. Fabrics B, C and D are such "two-sided" fabrics.

The two-sided fabrics are jerseys with a looped back. Such jersey is also referred to as "French terry", "sweatshirt fabric" or "sommersweat". The looped back is made of rose fiber yarn and the knitting stitches on the front side are made of a cotton yarn. Fabric B was knitted in circular machines in raw, then thermofixed and dyed with reactive colorants. Fabric B comprises rose fiber, cotton and cashmere. As cashmere is very expensive, two variants of lower costs (fabrics C and D) were produced.

Both fabrics C and D were knitted in circular machines in raw, then washed and treated. After being dried, the fleece was ironed with vapour to give balance and improve shrinkage values. Fabric C was produced using undyed yarns whereas fabric D was produced using undyed rose fiber yarn and grey colored cotton yarn.

Fabric C may also be produced using dyed yarn. The yarn dyed fleece is knitted in a mill on a mechanic circular machine with these characteristics: 14 gauge - 30 diameter. After an usual quality check, the fleece is mercerised. The mercerization gives more balance on this fabric and a lustrous appearance (elegant aspect). The mercerising is a particular textile finishing process that compress and flatter the fibers and give more brightness to the fabric, using caustic soda during the washing/scouring process and, as well, an appropriate softener product. After that, the fabric is dried with steam and ironed. Then it is ready for the final quality check.

Fabric D may also be produced as follows: This fleece is totally produced in a mill starting from the raw to the final fabric. It is a yarn dyed article knitted on a mechanic circular machine with these characteristics: 22 gauge - 30 diameter, specific for fleece structure. After an usual quality check, the raw fleece moves to a dye-department. Here, the raw fabric, which is still tubular, is prepared for the scouring, typical industrial treatment on the yarn dyed fabrics. The chemical products normally used are: a detergent to remove impurities and possible dirty, an antifoaming agent and, in the end, a softener product in order to obtain the good final touch of the fleece. Then the fabric is dried with steam and ironed with a specific machine called Sanfor. After this passage it is ready for the final quality check.

Fabric C was tested in respect of the UV (ultraviolet) protection, IR (infra-red) reflection, thermal resistance and water-vapor resistance. Similar results compared to fabric A were obtained.

Taken together, the inventors showed that fabrics characterized by a good pilling performance, low shrinkage, soft haptics, a high water-vapour transmission index and an UPF rating of 50+ can be produced if up to 40 % rose fiber yarn is mixed with a structural yarn and optionally a soft or a soft and an elastic yarn. Moreover, two kinds of fabrics were produced, wherein one fabric is characterized by a uniform appearance whereas the other fabric is characterized by a smooth surface and a napped surface. Experimental

The pilling test was performed according to ISO 12945-2.

Color fastness to washing was assessed according to ISO 105-C06 (washing at 30 °C and 40 °C).

The dimensional stability (shrinkage) was assessed according to ISO 5077, ISO 3759 and ISO 330 (washing at 30 °C and 40 °C).

Claims

1. A fabric comprising a proportion of 20 % to 50 % rose fiber yarn and a proportion of at least one structural yarn.

2. The fabric according to claim 1 , wherein the fabric comprises 20 % to 45 % rose fiber yarn, in particular 20 % to 40 %, more particularly 25 % to 40%.

3. The fabric according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fabric comprises 30 to 45 % rose fiber, in particular 35 to 40 % rose fiber.

4. The fabric according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fabric comprises 20 to 35 % rose fiber, in particular 25 to 30 % rose fiber.

5. The fabric according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fabric comprises additionally a proportion of at least one soft yarn.

6. The fabric according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fabric comprises additionally a proportion of at least one elastic yarn.

7. The fabric according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said proportion of the at least one soft yarn is 1-20 %, in particular 1-15 %, more particularly 6-12 %.

8. The fabric according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said proportion of the at least one elastic yarn is 1-10 %, in particular 1-5 %, more particularly 2-4 %.

9. The fabric according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the proportion of the at least one structural yarn P_str is calculated according to equation (1 ), 100 % - P = P.* (1 ),

wherein P is the sum all of yarn proportions except of the proportion P_str and P_st_r is the proportion of one or more structural yarns.

10. The fabric according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising 25 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn, in particular 35 % to 40 % and said proportion P_str of the at least one structural yarn, in particular comprising additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn, and/or 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, more particularly additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn,

1 1. The fabric according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising 20 % to 40 % rose fiber yarn, in particular 25 % to 30 %, said proportion P_str of the at least one structural yarn, in particular comprising additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn and/or 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn, more particularly comprising additionally 6-12 % of the at least one soft yarn and 3 % of the at least one elastic yarn.

12. The fabric according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said structural yarn comprises, in particular consist of, cotton, viscose, lyocell, modal, cellulose triacetate, cupro, linen, silk, hemp, ramie, bamboo, sisal, polyester, nylon or a combination thereof, in particular cotton or viscose.

13. The fabric according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said soft yarn comprises, in particular consists of, cashmere, merino wool, mohair, qiviut, angora, alpaca, llama, camel hair, vicuna, aralac and acrylic or a combination thereof, in particular cashmere.

14. The fabric according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said elastic yarn comprises, in particular consists of, elastane.

15. The fabric according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fabric comprises at least two yarns, which are connected in such a way that one side of the fabric comprises at least a first yarn and the other side of the fabric comprises at a second yarn, wherein said first yarn is rose fiber yarn and said second yarn is a yarn according to claim 12.