WO2018112679A1

WO2018112679A1 - Composition and process

Info

Publication number: WO2018112679A1
Application number: PCT/CN2016/000705
Authority: WO
Inventors: Runshuang LU; Zheng Chen
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2016-12-23
Filing date: 2016-12-23
Publication date: 2018-06-28
Also published as: CN110300574A

Abstract

A composition comprises at least one aqueous phase and (i) at least one non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer, (ii) at least one emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer, (iii) at least one C ₈-C ₁₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol, and (iv) at least one organic hydrophilic UV-screening agent. The composition achieves a very good balance between the stability overtime of the composition per se and water/fresh feeling after applied to skin, as well as a favorable UV-screening ability.

Description

COMPOSITION AND PROCESS

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics， and especially to the field of compositions for protecting the skin from UV radiation. Further， the present invention relates to the corresponding non-therapeutic cosmetic process involving use of same compositions.

BACKGROUND ART

Whitening and brightening of the skin is always high interest of the consumers， especially those who have a dark or dull skin tone. Cosmetic compositions are used to meet the expectations of the consumers， from many different aspects， one of which is anti UV radiation. Many formulations have been developed to date to achieve this goal.

Besides， UV products containing organic hydrophobic and/or hydrophilic UV-screening agents (or in other words UV filters) are known. These products are more and more favored by the consumers thanks to its ease of use and cosmetic pleasantness. Unlike the conventional UV products， these up-to-date UV products encompass less greasy feelings after application on the skin.

However， these up-to-date UV products are still to be improved， in terms of freshness and watery feeling， in particular for the needs of Asian consumers. They may still be considered as having a oily or greasy feeling after application by consumers， in particular those who have oily skin type. One way to have watery feeling is to increase the amount of aqueous phase， or in particular， water， in the products， which resulting in a water breaking sensation upon application on keratin materials， in particular the skin. However this is usually in contradiction with the stability of the product usually in the form of emulsion. Besides， this may impact the anti UV radiation effect of the product. Therefore， balancing the stability overtime and the watery feeling is one of the difficulties the man skilled in the art is faced. Besides， it is difficult to maintain the desired anti UV radiation effect of the products， and meanwhile obtaining the properties aforementioned.

AIMS OF THE INVENTION

Therefore， in one aspect， it is necessary to formulate compositions， in particular sunscreen compositions， which are capable， on application， of providing a very fresh feeling via the water droplets on keratin materials in particular the skin.

In another aspect， it is necessary to formulate compositions， in particular sunscreen compositions， which are very easy to apply to the skin with a good spreadability， distributed homogeneously over the skin and provide the user with a feeling of freshness and a long time moisturization after application.

In another aspect， it is necessary to formulate compositions， in particular sunscreen compositions， which are very thin and light， and have a very good balance between skincare efficacy perception (fresh and watery) and stability overtime. Such a composition also presents good anti UV radiation effect to the keratin materials.

DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

Surprisingly， the present inventors have discovered that the specific combination of (i) at least one non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer， (ii) at least one emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer， (iii) at least one C₈-C₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol， and (iv) at least one organic hydrophilic UV-screening agent may satisfy one or more of the abovementioned requirements.

The other subject of the present invention is a process for making up/caring for the keratin materials， for example the skin， by applying to the keratin materials the composition of the present invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Throughout the description， including the claims， the term ″comprising a″ should be understood as being synonymous with ″comprising at least one″ ， unless otherwise mentioned. Moreover， the expression ″at least one″ used in the present description is equivalent to the expression ″one or more″ .

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated， the limits of a range of values are included within this range， in particular in the expressions ″of between″ and ″ranging from ... to ... ″ . Further， the terms ″between... and... ″ and ″ranging from... to... ″ should be understood as being inclusive of the limits， unless otherwise specified.

Within the meaning of the present invention， by “UV-screening ability” ， it is in particular meant that the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) and/or PPD (Persistent Pigment Darkening) value of a composition is sufficient to market such a composition as sunscreen composition.

SPF is preferably measured according to International standard EN ISO 24444： 2010 Cosmetics -Sun protection test methods -In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) .

PPD is skin darkening that persists more than 2 h after the end of UVA exposure. It is determined according to ISO 24442： 2011 (en) Cosmetics -Sun protection test methods -In vivo determination of sunscreen UVA protection.

Within the meaning of the present invention， the term “keratin material” means the skin (of the body， face and around the eyes) ， nails， lips or mucous membranes. In particular， it means the skin.

Within the meaning of the present invention， the term “sunscreen composition” or “sunscreen agent” means any composition or ingredient that absorbs or scatters at least a part of UV radiations and prevents UV radiation from reaching the skin， especially deeper layers of the skin (typically the dermis) . This term is broadly used to cover sunblocks and sunscreens. The efficacy of such compositions or agents is typically measured by the SPF and/or PPD value.

The present invention relates to a composition， especially in form of water-in-silicone emulsion， comprising an aqueous phase and (i) at least one non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer， (ii) at least one emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer， (iii) at least one C₈-C₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol， and (iv) at least one organic hydrophilic UV-screening agent.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention， the composition is specifically a cosmetic composition， in particular a sunscreen composition. The present sunscreen composition achieves a very good balance between the stability overtime of the composition per se and watery/fresh feeling after applied to e.g. skin， as well as a favorable UV-screening ability. In a further aspect， the present sunscreen composition further provides water release effect due to its aqueous nature.

Non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer

According to the present invention， the composition comprises at least one non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer. In combination with the emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer hereinafter， the non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer herein is necessarily needed to stabilize the silicone phase of the present composition and further to improve skin sensory such as freshness.

In one embodiment， the non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer is an organopolysiloxane elastomer not containing a hydrophilic chain， such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerolated units.

In one embodiment， the organopolysiloxane elastomer not containing a hydrophilic chain， or non-emulsifying silicone elastomer， can be defined as being an elastomeric crossbonded organopolysiloxane that may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon， especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst； or by dehydrogenation crosslinking coupling reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon， especially in the presence of an organotin compound； or by crosslinking coupling reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane； or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane， especially in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst； or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane via high-energy radiation such as gamma rays， ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.

Preferably， the elastomeric crossbonded organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon， and (B2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon， especially in the presence (C2) of a platinum catalyst， as described， for example， in patent application EP-A-295 886.

In particular， the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups， in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A2) is the base reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane， and the crosslinking is performed by addition reaction of compound (A2) with compound (B2) in the presence of the catalyst (C2) .

Compound (A2) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower (for example C₂-C₄) alkenyl groups； the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl， allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule， but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (A2) may have a branched-chain， linear-chain， cyclic or network structure， but the linear-chain structure is preferred. Compound (A2) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably， compound (A2) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25℃.

The organopolysiloxanes (A2) may be chosen from methylvinylsiloxanes， methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers， dimethylpolysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups， dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers with dimethyl-vinylsiloxy end groups， dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsilox-ane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups， dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy end groups， dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy end groups， methyl (3， 3， 3-trifluoro-propyl) polysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups， and dimethyl-siloxane-methyl (3， 3， 3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups.

Compound (B2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens bonded to silicon in each molecule and is thus the crosslinking agent for compound (A2) .

Advantageously， the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (A2) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon per molecule of compound (B2) is at least 4.

Compound (B2) may be in any molecular structure， especially of linear-chain or branched-chain structure， or cyclic structure.

Compound (B2) may have a viscosity at 25℃ ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes， especially in order to have good miscibility with compound (A) .

It is advantageous for compound (B2) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon in compound (B2) and the total amount of all of the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (A2) is within the range from 1/1 to 20/1.

Compound (B2) may be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy end groups， dimethyl-siloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy end groups， and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.

Compound (C2) is the crosslinking reaction catalyst， and is especially chloroplatinic acid， chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes， chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes， chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes， platinum black and platinum on a support.

The catalyst (C2) is preferably added in from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight， better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight， as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A2) and (B2) .

Other organic groups may be bonded to silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (A2) and (B2) described above， for instance alkyl groups such as methyl， ethyl， propyl， butyl or octyl； substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl， 2-phenylpropyl or 3， 3， 3-trifluoropropyl； aryl groups such as phenyl， tolyl or xylyl； substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl； and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group， a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

According to one embodiment， the non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer is mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels， the non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer is particularly in the form of non-spherical particles.

In a embodiment， the silicone oil mixed with the organopolysiloxane elastomer to form a gel is a linear silicone oil (dimethylsiloxane) with molecular weight ranging from 1 to 350cst at 25℃， in particular 2 to 100cst and preferably 2 to 10cst. The silicone oil viscosity might be measured according to ASTM D-445 norm.

As examples of non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer mixed with linear silicone oil， used in the invention， mention may be made of the following references：

- DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (and) DIMETHICONE， such as the commercial references 《KSG-6》 and 《KSG-16》 sold by Shin Etsu；

- DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER， such as the comercial reference 《DC9041》 sold by Dow Corning.

In a preferred embodiment， the non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer is mixed with a linear silicone oil having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100cst at 25℃， in particular 1 to 10cst at 25℃， in particular the one having INCI Name DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (and) DIMETHICONE， such as the commercial references 《KSG-6》 and 《KSG-16》 sold by Shin Etsu， preferably KSG-16.

The non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used further include those sold under the names KSG-6， KSG-15， KSG-16， KSG-18， KSG-31， KSG-32， KSG-33， KSG-41， KSG-42， KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company Shin-Etsu， DC9040， DC9041， DC9509， DC9505 and DC9506 by the company Dow Corning， Gransil by the company Grant Industries， and SFE 839 by the company General Electric.

The non-emulsifying elastomer that may more particularly be used include those sold under the names KSG-6， KSG-15， KSG-16， KSG-18， KSG-41， KSG-42， KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company Shin-Etsu， more particularly those sold under the names KSG-15 and KSG-16， and preferentially the one sold under the name KSG-16.

KSG-16 is a gel composed of 24％of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer， and of 76％of dimethicone.

KSG15 is a gel composed of 6％of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer， and of 94％of cyclodimethicone.

The composition according to the invention may comprise such a non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer， alone or as a mixture， in an amount ranging from 0.01％to 10％by weight， preferably from 0.5％to 5％by weight， and more particularly from 0.1％to 3％by weight， of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

Emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer

According to the present invention， the composition comprises at least one emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer.

The term “emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer” means an organopolysiloxane elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain， such as polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers and polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomers.

The emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer may be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers.

The polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer that may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of a polyoxyalkylene containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.

Preferably， the polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A1) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon， and (B1) of polyoxyalkylene containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups， especially in the presence (C1) of a platinum catalyst， as described， for instance， in patents US 5 236 986 and US 5 412 004.

In particular， the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene) with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups， in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A1) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms， such as methyl， ethyl， propyl， butyl， octyl， decyl， dodecyl (or lauryl) ， myristyl， cetyl or stearyl； substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl， 2-phenylpropyl or 3， 3， 3-trifluoropropyl； aryl groups such as phenylethyl； and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group， a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

Compound (A1) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups， dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups， dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers， dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups.

Compound (C1) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction， and is especially chloroplatinic acid， chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes， chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes， chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes， platinum black and platinum on a support.

Advantageously， the polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers may be formed from divinyl compounds， in particular polyoxyalkylenes containing at least two vinyl groups， which react with Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane.

Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are especially described in patents US 5 236 986， US 5 412 004， US 5 837 793 and US 5 811 487， the content of which is incorporated by reference.

Polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers that may be used include those sold under the names KSG-21， KSG-20， KSG-30， KSG-31， KSG-32， KSG-33， KSG-210， KSG-310， KSG-320， KSG-330 and KSG-340 by the company Shin-Etsu， and DC9010 and DC9011 by the company Dow Corning.

The emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer may also be chosen from polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomers.

The polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomer according to the invention is an organopolysiloxane elastomer that may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of polyglycerolated compounds containing ethylenically unsaturated groups， especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Preferably， the polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon， and (B2) of glycerolated compounds containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups， especially in the presence (C2) of a platinum catalyst.

In particular， the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of a dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyglycerolated compound and of trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxane， in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A2) is the base reagent for the formation of an organopolysiloxane elastomer， and the crosslinking is performed by addition reaction of compound (A2) with compound (B2) in the presence of the catalyst (C2) .

Compound (A2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.

Compound (A2) may have any molecular structure， especially a linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.

Compound (A2) may have a viscosity at 25℃ ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes， especially so as to be miscible with compound (B2) .

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (A2) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms， such as methyl， ethyl， propyl， butyl， octyl， decyl， dodecyl (or lauryl) ， myristyl， cetyl or stearyl； substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl， 2-phenylpropyl or 3， 3， 3-trifluoropropyl； aryl groups such as phenyl， tolyl or xylyl； substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl； and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group， a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group. Preferably， the organic group is chosen from methyl， phenyl and lauryl groups.

Compound (A2) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups， dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups， dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups.

Compound (B2) may be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to formula (B’ ) below：

C_mH_2m-1-O- [Gly] _n-C_mH_2m-1 (B’ )

in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6， n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200， preferably ranging from 2 to 100， preferably ranging from 2 to 50， preferably ranging from 2 to 20， preferably ranging from 2 to 10 and preferentially ranging from 2 to 5， and in particular n is equal to 3； Gly denotes：

-CH₂-CH (OH) -CH₂-O-or-CH₂-CH (CH₂OH) -O-

Advantageously， the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule in compound (B2) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule in compound (A2) is at least 4.

It is advantageous for compound (A2) to be added in an amount such that the molar ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A2) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B2) is within the range from 1/1 to 20/1.

Compound (C2) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction， and is especially chloroplatinic acid， chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes， chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes， chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes， platinum black and platinum on a support.

The catalyst (C2) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight， as clean platinum metal， per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A2) and (B2) .

The polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomer is conveyed in gel form in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. In these gels， the polyglycerolated elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.

Polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomers that may be used include those sold under the names KSG-710， KSG-810， KSG-820， KSG-830 and KSG-840 by the company Shin-Etsu.

The composition according to the invention may comprise such an emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer， alone or as a mixture， in an amount ranging from 0.01％to 10％by weight， preferably from 0.1％to 5％by weight， and more particularly from 0.5％to 53％by weight， of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

C₈-C₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol

According to the present invention， the composition comprises at least one C₈-C₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol.

This C₈-C₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol of the invention is more particularly an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C₈-C₂₂) alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane.

The C₈-C₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound of the following formula (IV) ：

wherein：

- PE represents from groups (-C₂H₄O) _x- (C₃H₆O) _y-R， wherein R is chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms， x is an integer ranging from 0 to 100， and y is an integer ranging from 0 to 80， provided that x and y are not simultaneously equal to 0； and

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 40， n is an integer ranging from 10 to 200， o is an integer ranging from 1 to 100， p is an integer ranging from 7 to 21， and q is an integer ranging from 0 to 4.

Preferably， R is a hydrogen atom， m is an integer ranging from 1 to 10， n is an integer ranging from 10 to 100， o is an integer ranging from 1 to 30， pis 15， and q is 3.

In a preferred embodiment， the at least one C₈-C₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol of the present invention is chosen from cetyl dimethicone copolyols such as the product marketed under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt.

The at least one C₈-C₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol may be present， for example， in an amount ranging from 0.1％to 1.5％by weight， preferably from 0.1％to 1％by weight， and more particularly from 0.1％to 0.8％by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment， the C₈-C₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol is a cetyl dimethicone copolyol， and more particularly the product marketed under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt.

Abil EM-90 is a cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone.

In a more preferred embodiment， the compositions of the invention comprise a cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone as C₈-C₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol， herein in an amount ranging from 0.1％to 1.5％by weight， preferably from 0.1％to 1.2 ％by weight， and more particularly from 0.3％to 0.9％by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydrophilic UV-screening agents

According to the present invention， the composition comprises， preferably in the aqueous phase， at least one organic hydrophilic UV-screening agent. The organic hydrophilic UV-screening agent is needed herein to stabilize the aqueous phase of the present composition.

The term ″hydrophilic UV-screening agent″ means any organic or mineral sunscreen agent capable of being fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or of being dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

I/Hydrophilic UV-A screening agents

The bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in the patents EP 669 323， and US 2,463,264 and more specifically the compound Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazo tetra-sulfonate sold under the trade name ″NEO HELIOPAN AP″ by SYMRISE；

The preferred hydrophilic UVA screening agent is Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid， which is in particular available under the trade name

SX sold by the company CHIMEX.

II/Hydrophilic UV-B screening agents

The following p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives：

PABA，

Glyceryl PABA， and

PEG-25 PABA particularly sold under the trade name ″UVINUL P25″ by BASF，

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid particularly sold under the trade name ″EUSOLEX 232″ by MERCK，

ferulic acid，

salicylic acid，

DEA methoxycinnamate，

Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name ″MEXORYL SL″ by CHIMEX，

Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name ″MEXORYL SO″ by CHIMEX，

The preferred hydrophilic UVB screening agent is Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid， Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid， or a mixture thereof.

III/Combined hydrophilic UVA and UVB screening agents

Benzophenone derivatives comprising at least one sulfonic radical such as

Benzophenone-4 particularly sold under the trade name ″UVINUL MS 40″ by BASF，

Benzophenone-5， and

Benzophenone-9.

More preferably， the composition comprises， in the aqueous phase， at least one hydrophilic UV-screening agent selected from the group consisting of Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid， Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid， or a mixture thereof.

Preferably， the organic hydrophilic UV-screening agent is present in the composition of the present invention， in an amount ranging from 1％to 40％by weight， more preferably from 5％to 20％by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention， the composition comprises from 1％to 10％by weight， more preferably from 1％to 5％by weight， of the at least one non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer， from 1％to 5％by weight， more preferably from 1％to 5％by weight， of the at least one emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer， from 0.1％to 1.2％by weight， more preferably from 0.3％to 0.9％by weight， of cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone， and from 1％to 40％by weight， more preferably from 5％to 20％by weight， of the at least one organic hydrophilic UV-screening agent， in particularly terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid， phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid or a mixture thereof.

Hydrophobic UV-screening agents

According to the present invention， the composition may comprise at least one organic hydrophobic UV-screening agent， if needed to further improve the UV-screening ability of the present composition.

The term ″hydrophobic UV-screening agent″ or ″lipophilic screening agent″ means any organic or mineral sunscreen agent which can be fully dissolved in molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.

I/Hydrophobic UV-A screening agents

Dibenzoylmethane derivatives：

Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane；

Aminobenzophenones：

n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoate particularly sold under the trade name ″UVINUL A+″ by BASF；

1， 1′- (1， 4-piperazinediyl) bis [1 - [2- [4- (diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl ] phenyl] -methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) ；

Anthranilic derivatives：

Menthyl anthranilate particularly sold under the trade name ″NEO HELIOPAN MA″ by SYMRISE；

4， 4-diarylbutadiene derivatives：

1， 1-dicarboxy (2， 2′-dimethyl-propyl) -4， 4-diphenylbutadiene；

Merocyanine derivatives：

Octyl-5-N， N-diethylamino-2-phenysulfonyl-2， 4-pentadienoate.

II/Hydrophobic UV-B screening agents

Para-aminobenzoates：

Ethyl PABA；

Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA；

Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA (ESCALOL 507 from ISP) ；

Salicylic derivatives：

Homosalate particularly sold under the name ″Eusolex HMS″ by Rona/EM Industries；

Ethylhexyl Salicylate particularly sold under the name ″NEO HELIOPAN OS″ by SYMRISE；

Dipropyleneglycol Salicylate particularly sold under the name ″DIPSAL″ by SCHER；

TEA Salicylate sold under the name ″NEO HELIOPAN TS″ by SYMRISE；

Cinnamates：

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate particularly sold under the trade name ″PARSOL MCX″ by DSM Nutritional Products， Inc.；

Isopropyl Methoxy cinnamate；

Isoamyl Methoxy cinnamate particularly sold under the trade name ″NEO HELIOPAN E 1000″ by SYMRISE；

Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate；

Cinnoxate：

Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate；

β， β’-diphenylacrylate derivatives：

Etocrylene， particularly sold under the trade name ″UVINUL N35″ by BASF；

Octoylcrylene， for example sold under the trade name “UVINUL N 539” by BASF；

Benzylidene camphor derivatives：

3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name ″MEXORYL SD″ by CHIMEX；

Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name ″EUSOLEX 6300″ by MERCK；

Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name ″MEXORYL SW″ by CHIMEX；

Triazine derivatives：

Ethylhexyl triazone particularly sold under the trade name ″UVINUL T150″ by BASF；

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone particularly sold under the trade name ″UVASORB HEB″ by SIGMA 3V；

2， 4， 6-tris (dineopentyl 4’-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine；

2， 4， 6-tris (diisobutyl 4’-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine；

2， 4-bis (dineopentyl 4’-amino benzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4’-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine；

2， 4-bis (n-butyl 4’-amino benzoate) -6- (aminopropyltrisiloxane) -s-triazine；

the symmetrical triazine filters described in the patent US 6,225,467， the application WO 2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document ″Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives″ IP. COM Journal， IP. COM INC WEST HENRIETTA， NY，

US (September 20， 2004) particularly 2， 4， 6-tris-(biphenyl) -1， 3， 5 -triazine (particularly 2， 4， 6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl-1， 3， 5-triazine) and 2， 4， 6-tris (terphenyl) -1， 3， 5-triazine， the latter two filters being described in the BEIERSDORF applications WO 06/035000， WO 06/034982， WO 06/034991， WO 06/035007， WO 2006/034992， WO 2006/034985) ；

Imidazoline derivatives：

Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate；

Benzalmalonate derivatives：

Polyorganosiloxanes with a benzalmalonate function such as Polysilicone-15 particularly sold under the trade name ″PARSOL SLX″ by DSM Nutritional Products， Inc.；

Di-neopentyl 4’ -methoxybenzalmalonate.

Within the scope of the invention， and according to one particular embodiment， the following hydrophobic UV-B screening agents are used in the composition according to the invention：

Cinnamates；

β， β’ -diphenylacrylate derivatives.

More particularly， the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrophobic UV-screening agent， selected from the group consisting of Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate， n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino -2-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoate， or a mixture thereof.

III/Combined hydrophobic UVA and UVB screening agents

Benzophenone derivatives

Benzophenone-1 particularly sold under the trade name ″UVINUL 400″ by BASF；

Benzophenone-2 particularly sold under the trade name ″UVINUL D50″ by BASF；

Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone particularly sold under the trade name ″UVINUL M40″ by BASF；

Benzophenone-6 particularly sold under the trade name ″Helisorb 11″ by Norquay；

Benzophenone-8 particularly sold under the trade name ″Spectra-Sorb UV-24″ by American Cyanamid；

Benzophenone-10；

Benzophenone-11；

Benzophenone-12；

Phenyl benzotriazole derivatives：

Drometrizole Trisiloxane particularly sold under the name ″Silatrizole″ by RHODIA CHIMIE or manufactured under the name ″Meroxyl XL″ by CHIMEX；

Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol， sold in solid form particularly under the trade name ″MIXXIM BB/100″ by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in micronized form in aqueous dispersion particularly under the trade name ″TINOSORB M″ by CIBA SPECIALTY CHEMICALS；

Benzoxazole derivatives：

2， 4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) b enzoxazo l-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1， 3， 5-triazine particularly sold under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V.

According to an embodiment， the composition of the present invention may additionally comprise at least one hydrophobic UV-screening agent selected from the group consisting of Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate， n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoate， or a mixture thereof.

If used， the organic hydrophobic UV-screening agent is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01％to 20％by weight， more preferably from 0.1％to 20％by weight， and even more preferably from 1％to 10％by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

According to the present invention， the composition comprises at least one aqueous phase.

This aqueous phase can comprise alcohol (s) ， in particular ethanol； polyehthylene glycols having from 6 to 80 ethylene oxide units； polyols， such as propylene glycol， isoprene glycol， butylene glycol， glycerol， maltitol， sorbitol， glycols， such as propylene glycol， butylene glycol， pentylene glycol， dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol， glycol ethers， such as mono-， di-or tripropylene glycol or mono-， di-or triethylene glycol (C₁-C₄) alkyl ether， and their mixtures.

The aqueous phase comprises water. The water can be a floral water， such as cornflower water， and/or a mineral water， such as water from Vittel， water from Lucas or water from La Roche-Posay， and/or a thermal water. According to a particular embodiment of the invention， the amount of water in the aqueous phase is higher than the total amount of alcools/polyols in the aqueous phase.

In particular， the amount of polyols in the composition may represent from 0.5％to 40％by weight， preferably from 1％to 30％by weight， and more preferably from 5％to 20％by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase can additionally comprise stabilizing agents， for example sodium chloride， magnesium dichloride， magnesium sulphate.

Preferably， the aqueous phase is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 40％to 85％， preferably ranging from 60％to 80％by weight， with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Fatty phase

According to the present invention， the composition may comprise at least one fatty phase.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention， the composition may comprise a weight ratio of aqueous phase/fatty phase ranging from 1 to 10.

Preferably， a composition may comprise a weight ratio of aqueous phase/fatty phase ranging from 1 to 8.

More preferably， a composition may comprise a weight ratio of aqueous phase/fatty phase ranging from 2 to 5.

According to the present invention， the fatty phase is a silicone fatty phase. In particular， the silicone phase comprises， as described above， (i) at least one non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer， (ii) at least one emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer， (iii) at least one C₈-C₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol， and (iv) at least one organic hydrophilic UV-screening agent.

Optionally， the fatty phase can comprise at least one volatile oil， at least one non-volatile oil， or a mixture thereof.

Volatile oil

Advantageously， the fatty phase may comprise from 1％to 60％by weight， preferably ranging from 3％to 35％by weight and preferentially ranging from 5％to 20％by weight of， if present， volatile oil (s) ， with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Among volatile oils， hydrocarbon oils， silicone oils， fluorinated oils and their mixture may be mentioned.

A volatile hydrocarbon based oil which can be used in the invention can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having a flash point ranging from 40℃ to 102℃， preferably ranging from 40℃ to 55℃， and preferably ranging from 40℃ to 50℃.

Mention may be made， as volatile hydrocarbon based oil， of volatile hydrocarbon based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures， in particular branched C₈-C₁₆ alkanes， such as C₈-C₁₆ isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins) ， isododecane， isodecane， isohexadecane and， for example， the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl commercial names， branched C₈-C₁₆ esters， such as isohexyl neopentanoate， and their mixtures. Preferably， the volatile hydrocarbon based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures， in particular from isododecane， isodecane or isohexadecane， and is in particular isododecane. The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may also be chosen from linear C8-C16 alkanes. Examples of linear C8-C16 alkanes that may be mentioned include n-nonadecane (C9) ， n-decane (C10) ， n-undecane (C11) ， n-dodecane (C12) ， n-tridecane (C13) ， n-tetradecane (C14) ， n-pentadecane (C15) and n-hexadecane (C16) ， and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment， a volatile linear alkane that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from n-nonadecane， n-undecane， n-dodecane and n-tridecane， and mixtures thereof. In particular， a volatile linear alkane may be used in the form of an n-undecane/n-tridecane mixture.

The volatile hydrocarbon based oil can be present in a content ranging from 0.1％to 30％by weight， with respect to the total weight of the composition， preferably ranging from 0.5％to 20％by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.5％to 10％by weight. In particular， the composition comprises at least 0.5％by weight， with respect to the total weight of the composition， of volatile hydrocarbon based oil.

The volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention can be chosen from silicon oils having a flash point ranging from 40℃ to 102℃， preferably having a flash point of greater than 55℃ and less than or equal to 95℃， and preferentially ranging from 65℃ to 95℃.

Mention may be made， as volatile silicone oil， of linear or cyclic silicone oils especially those with a viscosity ≤ 8 centistokes (8 x 10^-6 m²/s) and having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms， these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made， as examples of volatile silicone oil， of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane， decamethylcyclopentasiloxane， dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane， heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane， heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane， hexamethyldisiloxane， octamethyltrisiloxane， decamethyltetrasiloxane， dodecamethylpentasiloxane and their mixtures.

Mention may be made， as volatile fluorinated oil， of nonafluoroethoxybutane， nonafluoromethoxybutane， decafluoropentane， tetradecafluorohexane， dodecafluoropentane and their mixtures.

The volatile oil chosen from volatile silicone oils， volatile fluorinated oils and their mixtures can be present in a content ranging from 0.5％to 30％by weight， with respect to the total weight of the composition， preferably ranging from 0.5％to 20％by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.5％to 10％by weight， with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Non-volatile oil

Advantageously， the fatty phase may comprise from 1％to 30％by weight， preferably ranging from 1％to 20％by weight and preferentially ranging from 5％to 10％by weight of， if present， non-volatile oil (s) ， with respect to the total weight of the composition.

This non-volatile oil or one of its mixtures can be present in a content ranging from 0.5％to 50％by weight， with respect to the total weight of the composition， and preferably ranging from 3％to 30％by weight.

The non-volatile oil can be chosen from carbon-comprising， hydrocarbon-comprising and/or silicone oils of mineral， animal， vegetable or synthetic origin， and their mixtures， insofar as they are compatible with the use envisaged.

Mention may be made of non-volatile hydrocarbon based oils. The non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil includes non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oils， non-volatile hydrocarbon-based fluror oils， and non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil

In particular， the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below， and mixtures thereof：

- hydrocarbon-based plant oils， such as Simmondsia Chinensis (jojoba) oil， triglycerides such as triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms， more preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms， caprylic/capric triglycerides， ricinus communis (castor) oil， cocos nucifera (coconut) oil， simmondsia chinensis seed oil， linum usitatissimum (linseed) oil， persea gratissima (avocado) oil， macadamia ternifolia seed oil， limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil， olea europaea (olive) fruit oil， canola oil， prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil， elaeis guneenaeis guineensis (palm) oil， punica granatum seed oil， helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil， glycine soja (soybean) oil， zea mays (corn) germ oil， carthamus tinctorius (safflower) seed oil， sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil， oryza sativa (rice) bran oil， bertholletia excels seed oil； mentions maybe especially made of the products of this kind being sold， for example， under the tradename

318 from Cognis (BASF) ； mentions may be made of the jojoba oil that is sold， for example， under the trade name Jojoba Oil Golden by Desert Whale.

- hydrocarbon-based mono-or di-esters the carboxylic acid residue contains from 2 to 30 carbon atoms， and the alcohol residue represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms， such as stearyl heptanoate， isononyl isononanoate， isotridecyl isononanoate， diisostearyl malate， oleyl erucate or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate； isopropyl myristate； mentions may be made of stearyl heptanotate such as the product sold under the trade name Tegosoft SH by

Goldschmidt.

- polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol， such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634， in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1， 4-butanediol. Mention may especially be made in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name： Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer) ， or copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers， and esters thereof， such as Hailuscent ISDA，

- fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms， saturated or unsaturated， which are branched or linear， for instance octyldodecanol， 2-butyloctanol， 2-hexyldecanol， 2-undecylpentadecanol， oleyl alcohol or isostearyl alcohol； Preferably， the alcohols are branched； mentions maybe made of octyldodecanol such as the product with the trade name Eutanol

sold by the company BASF；

- saturated or unsaturated C₁₂-C₂₆ fatty acids， such as oleic acid， linoleic acid and linolenic acid， and mixtures thereof；

- dialkyl carbonates， the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different， such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol

by Cognis； and

- non-volatile oils of high molecular mass， for example from 650 to 10 000 g/mol， for instance：

i) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as the vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer， Antaron V-216 sold or manufactured by the company ISP (MW ＝ 7300 g/mol) ，

ii) ester oils such as：

a) linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70， for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW ＝ 697.05 g/mol) ，

b) hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW ＝965.58 g/mol) ；

c) aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW ＝ 757.19 g/mol) ，

d) esters of C₂₄-C₂₈ branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 955 039， and especially triisoarachidyl citrate (MW ＝ 1033.76 g/mol) ， pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW ＝ 697.05 g/mol) ， glyceryl triisostearate (MW ＝891.51 g/mol) ， glyceryl tris (2-decyl) tetradecanoate (MW ＝ 1143.98 g/mol) ， pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW ＝ 1202.02 g/mol) ， polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW ＝ 1232.04 g/mol) or else pentaerythrityl tetrakis (2-decyl) tetradecanoate (MW ＝ 1538.66 g/mol) ，

e) esters and polyesters of a diol dimer and of a monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid， such as esters of a diol dimer and of a fatty acid and esters of a diol dimer and of a dicarboxylic acid dimer； mention may be made especially of the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleyl diol dimers sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan

and

- and mixtures thereof.

The esters of a diol dimer and of a monocarboxylic acid may be obtained from a monocarboxylic acid containing from 4 to 34 carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 32 carbon atoms， which acids are linear or branched， and saturated or unsaturated.

As illustrative examples of triglycerides that are suitable for use in the invention， mention may be made especially of triglycerides of fatty acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

According to one particular variant， it is more particularly the triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms are used..

Preferably， the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based plant oils， hydrocarbon-based mono-or di-esters the carboxylic acid residue contains from 2 to 30 carbon atoms， and the alcohol residue represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms， or a mixture thereof.

Non-volatile fluoro oil

The non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may also be a fluoro oil.

The term “fluoro oil” means oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

According to the invention， the term ″perfluoro compounds″ means compounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced with fluorine atoms.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment， the fluoro oil according to the invention is chosen from perfluoro oils.

As examples of perfluoro oils that may be used in the invention， mention may be made of perfluorodecalins and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment， the fluoro oil is chosen from perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes， and especially the

products sold by the company Créations Couleurs. In particular， use may be made of the fluoro oil for which the INCI name is Perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene， sold under the reference Fiflow 220 by the company F2 Chemicals.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oils

For the purposes of the present invention， the term “apolar oil” means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25℃， δa， is equal to 0 (J/cm3) 1/2.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C.M. Hansen： ″The three dimensional solubility parameters″ ， J. Paint Technol. 39， 105 (1967) .

According to this Hansen space：

- δD characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts；

- δp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles；

- δh characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding， acid/base， donor/acceptor， etc. ) ； and

- δa is determined by the equation： δa ＝ (δp² + δh²) 1/2.

The parameters δp， δh， δD and δa are expressed in (J/cm3) 1/2.

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil formed essentially from， or even constituted by， carbon and hydrogen atoms， and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms， and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms.

As the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil is apolar， the compoundis then free of oxygen， nitrogen atom (s) .

Preferably， the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin， such as：

- liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof， for example the product sold under the trade name， Primol 352 by the company Exxonmobil Chemical.

- squalane，

- isoeicosane，

- liquid petroleum jelly，

- naphthalene oil，

- polybutenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW ＝ 965 g/mol) ， Indopol H-300 (MW ＝ 1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW ＝2160g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Ineos，

- hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as

sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats， Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW ＝ 1340 g/mol) ， Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW ＝ 6000 g/mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW ＝ 1000 g/mol) ，

- decene/butene copolymers， polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers， especially Indopol L-14，

- polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as： Puresyn 10 (MW ＝ 723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW ＝ 9200 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals，

- and mixtures thereof.

Other non-volatile oil

Mention may be made， as non-volatile silicone oil， of polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) ， which are optionally phenylated， such as phenyl trimethicones， or optionally substituted by aliphatic and/or aromatic groups or by functional groups， such as hydroxyl， thiol and/or amine groups； polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids， fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes， and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention can additionally comprise a thickening agent for the fatty phase. The thickening agent can be chosen from：

- organomodified clays， which are clays treated with compounds chosen in particular from quaternary amines or tertiary amines. Mention may be made， as organomodified clays， of organomodified bentonites， such as those sold under the name ″Bentone 34″ by Rheox， or organomodified hectorites， such as those sold under the name ″Bentone 27″ or ″Bentone 38″ by Rheox.

- hydrophobic pyrogenic silica. Such silicas are sold， for example， under the references ″Aerosil

″ by Degussa and ″Cab-O-Sil

″ by Cabot and under the references ″Aerosil

″ and ″Aerosil

″ by Degussa and ″Cab-O-Sil

″ and ″Cab-O-Sil

″ by Cabot.

The thickening agent for the fatty phase can be present in a content ranging from 0.1％to 5％by weight， with respect to the fatty phase， and better still from 0.2％to 3％by weight.

In a preferred embodiment， the compositions of the invention comprise a thickening agent into the fatty phase， in particular a hydrophobic pyrogenic silica， preferentially the silica sold under the name Aerosil

by Degussa， which is a silica dimethyl silylate.

Aerosil silicon dioxide， made from vaporized silicon tetrachloride oxidized in high-temperature flame with hydrogen and oxygen， treated by hvdrophobation (Aerosil

) ， delivers several high important benefit to the formula and process.

Indeed， it：

- gives thickening effect and thixotropy by dispersing to liquid materials；

- improves the possibility for pigment suspension；

- increases the stabilization of the big emulsion droplets；

- ensures water beads releasing effect without any impacts；

- speeds up emulsifying process and shortens batch time； and

- makes it easier to process.

The at least one fatty phase can represent from 1％to 10％by weight， preferably from 1％to 5％by weight， with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Adjuvants

In a known way， all the compositions of the invention can comprise one or more of the adjuvants usual in the cosmetic and dermatological fields： hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling and/or thickening agents； fillers； moisturising agents； emollients； hydrophilic or lipophilic active principles； agents for combating free radicals； sequestering agents； antioxidants； preservatives； basifying or acidifying agents； fragrances； film-forming agents； colouring materials； and their mixtures. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in foundations.

Of course， a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional adjuvants added to the composition according to the invention so that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not， or not substantially， detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition.

Galenic form

The composition according to the invention is generally in form of water-in-silicone emulsion.

Nevertheless， it is to be understood that a person skilled in the art can choose the appropriate presentation form， on the basis of his/her general knowledge， taking into account the nature of the constituents used， for example， their solubility in the vehicle， and the application envisaged for the composition.

More particularly， the composition of the present invention has a hydrophobic phase in form of droplets.

According to an embodiment， the composition of the present invention is a gel.

In one embodiment， the aqueous phase is translucent or transparent.

Advantageously， the composition of the present invention has the appearance of a gel， particularly a translucent gel.

More preferably， the composition contains an aqueous gel.

The term “aqueous gel” means a composition containing a continuous aqueous phase containing a viscoelastic mass formed from colloidal suspensions. The viscosity of a gel according to the invention is measured at 25℃. using a ProRheo R180 machine (rotor 2) from the company Prorheo， and its value is generally at least 20 DU (Deviation Units) with the rotor 2.

The gels in accordance with the present invention comprise an aqueous phase generally in a proportion of greater than or equal to 70％by weight， preferably greater than or equal to 80％by weight and more particularly greater than or equal to 90％by weight relative to the total weight of the gel.

The term “translucent” means which allows light to pass through without making it possible to distinguish alphanumeric characters using 5 mm thick samples.

The term “transparent” means which allows light to pass through， and makes it possible to distinguish alphanumeric characters using 5 mm thick samples.

Method and use

The composition of the present invention can be generally prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. Nevertheless， it is to be understood that a person skilled in the art can choose its method of preparation， on the basis of his/her general knowledge， taking into account the nature of the constituents used， for example， their solubility in the vehicle， and the application envisaged for the composition.

The composition of the present invention can be used for a non-theraputic process， such as a cosmetic process or method， for making up/caring for a keratin material， in particular for protecting the skin from UV radiation， such as the skin， by being applied to the skin.

The method according to the present invention can improve skin sensory， in particularly freshness， without deteriorating other beneficial effects like UV-screening ability.

In a further embodiment， the method according to the present invention can provide water release effect， without deteriorating other beneficial effects like UV-screening ability.

EXAMPLES

The examples that follow are aimed at illustrating the compositions and processes according to the present invention， but are not in any way a limitation of the scope of the invention.

I. Preparation

The invention formula A， and comparative formulas A1， A2， and A3 were prepared：

Comparative formula A1 contains no C₈-C₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol of the present invention；

Comparative formula A2 contains no emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer of the present invention；

Comparative formula A3 contains no organic hydrophilic UV-screening agent of the present invention.

The invention and comparative formulas were prepared as follows：

Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and/or terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid， when existing， were neutralized by triethanolamine and tromethamine to a pH value of 7.0 in water at 25℃. They were then added to the phase Q at 25℃， and mixed until homogeneous. Then phase Q was added into phase L slowly. The mixture was stirred until homogeneous at 25℃.

II. Evaluation of the invention and comparative formulas

The invention and comparative formulas listed above were evaluated using the following protocols.

Method for evaluating the stability overtime

The invention and comparative formulas were kept under 4℃， 37℃， and 45℃ for 2 months. They were also kept in oven for 7 days under temperature change from -20℃ to 20℃ every 6 hours， continuously.

Method for evaluating the fresh sensory and the waterbeads releasing effect

The evaluation was performed as follows.

Step 1 ： Pick up same quantity (around 0.1g) of the invention and comparative formulas， respecitvely， then using the pad of the middle finger and apply same on inner forearm.

Step 2： Spread the invention and comparative formulas， respecitvely simultaneously in order to have a good distribution of same over same area.

Step 3： Feel cooling/freshness to evaluation fresh sensory.

Step 4： Observe waterbeads releasing effect (waterbeads size， beads releasing evenness， beads distribution in proper area) . If it has been observed a significant difference between an area of the skin treated with this formula compared with an untreated area， we can say that the treated skin was better moisturized than the untreated skin.

Method for evaluating SPF

SPF was measured according to International standard EN ISO 24444： 2010 Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) .

The results of the evaluation are as follow.

From the results above， it is observed that the invention formula is stable at different temperatures， while comparative formulas A1 and A2 are not stable.

Hydrophilic UV filters can provide good UV protection while their sensory is light and not oily. Compared to hydrophobic UV filters， which increase the oiliness of formula when added， hydrophilic UV filters have no impact on the skin sensory.

Claims

A composition， especially in form of water-in-silicone emulsion， comprising at least one aqueous phase and

(i) at least one non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer，

(ii) at least one emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer，

(iii) at least one C₈-C₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol of formula (IV) ， and

wherein：

PE represents from groups (-C₂H₄O) _x- (C₃H₆O) _y-R， wherein R is chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms， x is an integer ranging from 0 to 100， and y is an integer ranging from 0 to 80， provided that x and y are not simultaneously equal to 0； and

m is an integer ranging from 1 to 40， n is an integer ranging from 10 to 200， o is an integer ranging from 1 to 100， p is an integer ranging from 7 to 21， and q is an integer ranging from 0 to 4， and

(iv) at least one organic hydrophilic UV-screening agent.
Composition according to claim 1， wherein the at least one non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer is an elastomeric crossbonded organopolysiloxane that may be obtained by the crosslinking addition reaction (A2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon， and (B2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon， especially in the presence (C2) of a platinum catalyst， preferably that may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups， in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
Composition according to claim 1 or 2， wherein the at least one non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01％ to 10％ by weight， preferably from 0.5％ to 5％ by weight， and more particularly from 0.1％ to 3％ by weight， of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims 1 to 3， wherein the at least one emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer is chosen from amongst polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers and polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomers， preferably chosen from amongst elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxanes which may be obtained by the crosslinking addition reaction (Al) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon， and (B1) of polyoxyalkylene containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups， especially in the presence (C1) of a platinum catalyst and elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxanes which may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon， and (B2) of glycerolated compounds containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups， especially in the presence (C2) of a platinum catalyst.
Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims 1 to 4， wherein the at least one emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01％ to 10％ by weight， preferably from 0.1％ to 5％ by weight， and more particularly from 0.5％ to 53％ by weight， of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims 1 to 5， wherein the at least one C₈-C₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol is cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone.
Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims 1 to 6， wherein the at least one C₈-C₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol is present in an amount ranging from 0.1％ to 1.5％ by weight， preferably from 0.1％ to 1.2％ by weight， and more particularly from 0.3％ to 0.9％ by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims 1 to 7， wherein the at least one organic hydrophilic UV-screening agent is chosen from amongst a bis-benzoazolyl derivative based organic hydrophilic UV-A screening agent， a p-aminobenzoic acid derivative based organic hydrophilic UV-B screening agent， a sulfonic radical containing benzophenone derivative based organic hydrophilic UV-screening agent or a mixture thereof， preferably from amongst terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid， phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid or a mixture thereof.
Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims 1 to 8， wherein the at least one organic hydrophilic UV-screening agent is present in an amount ranging from 1％ to 40％ by weight， more preferably from 5％ to 20％ by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims 1 to 9， wherein the composition comprises at least one fatty phase.
Composition according to claim 10， wherein the at least one fatty phase comprises at least one volatile oil and/or at least one non-volatile oil.
Composition according to claim 10 or 11， wherein the at least one fatty phase represents from 1％ to 10％ by weight， preferably from 1％ to 5％ by weight， with respect to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims 1 to 12， wherein the at least one aqueous phase represents from 40％ to 85％ by weight， preferably from 60％ to 80％ by weight， with respect to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to anyone of the preceding claims 1 to 13， wherein the composition comprises from 1％ to 10％ by weight， more preferably from 1％ to 5％ by weight， of the at least one non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer， from 1％ to 5％ by weight， more preferably from 1％ to 5％ by weight， of the at least one emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer， from 0.1％ to 1.2％ by weight， more preferably from 0.3％ to 0.9％ by weight， of cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone， and from 1％ to 40％ by weight， more preferably from 5％ to 20％ by weight， of the at least one organic hydrophilic UV-screening agent chosen from terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid， phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid or a mixture thereof.
A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material， in particular for protecting the skin from UV radiation， comprising the application， to the surface of the keratin material， of at least one composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 14.