WO2009037303A1 - Composition comprising a continuous fatty phase and a specific ester - Google Patents
Composition comprising a continuous fatty phase and a specific ester Download PDFInfo
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- WO2009037303A1 WO2009037303A1 PCT/EP2008/062426 EP2008062426W WO2009037303A1 WO 2009037303 A1 WO2009037303 A1 WO 2009037303A1 EP 2008062426 W EP2008062426 W EP 2008062426W WO 2009037303 A1 WO2009037303 A1 WO 2009037303A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
- A61K8/893—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by an alkoxy or aryloxy group, e.g. behenoxy dimethicone or stearoxy dimethicone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/56—Compounds, absorbed onto or entrapped into a solid carrier, e.g. encapsulated perfumes, inclusion compounds, sustained release forms
Definitions
- composition comprising a continuous fatty phase and a specific ester
- the object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising a liquid fatty phase, at least one silicone elastomer, a UV filter and a specific ester.
- the object of the invention is likewise a process for making up and/or care of the keratinic substances, comprising the application of this composition to the said keratinic substances.
- composition of the invention can be present in the form of a composition for care of the skin, or of a solar protection composition. In that case, it is present in uncoloured form, optionally containing cosmetic or dermatological active agents. It can therefore be used as a care base for the keratinic substances such as, especially, the skin or the lips.
- composition of the invention can likewise be present in the form of a coloured product for making up the keratinic substances such as, especially, the skin, and especially a make-up foundation, a blusher, a cheek rouge or eyeshadow, or lip make-up such as a lipstick, optionally comprising cosmetic active agents imparting care properties to them.
- lipophilic filters In order to optimize the remanence of cosmetic compositions, it is known from the document EP-A-893987 to use lipophilic filters, optionally in combination with siliconized compounds such as elastomeric as well as hydrophobic organopolysiloxanes . These elastomeric organopolysiloxanes impart, moreover, properties of softness, of dullness and of non-greasy touch which allow the greasy, shiny and sticky character of the lipophilic filters to be attenuated.
- the lipophilic filters are poorly compatible with the elastomeric organopolysiloxanes: the mixture obtained is unstable in the course of time, of granular or opaque appearance and, in certain cases, it is not possible to produce.
- the gelling properties of the elastomeric organopolysiloxanes are altered by it. This is especially true for high content (in active substance) of elastomeric organopolysiloxanes for gelling properties and high content of lipophilic filters for SPF value. In particular for content of at least 1% (in active substance) of elastomeric organopolysiloxanes .
- the inventors have shown that it was possible to obtain such a composition by combining a lipophilic organic filter, a silicone elastomer and a specific ester in a composition comprising an external fatty phase.
- the object of the invention is also a cosmetic composition for making up or care of the keratinic substances comprising a continuous fatty phase, the said continuous fatty phase comprising at least:
- the object of the invention is furthermore a non- therapeutic process for making up or care of the keratinic substances comprising the application to the said keratinic substances of a composition such as previously described.
- the object of the invention is finally the use of a composition such as previously described in order to confer a deposit protecting effectively from the rays - A - of the sun, resistant to water and not providing a greasy effect.
- composition of the invention comprises at least one non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxane (also called silicone elastomer) .
- Non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is understood in the sense of the present invention as meaning organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerolated units.
- non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is in the form of non-spherical particles (non-emulsifying non-spherical silicone elastomer) .
- the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer especially non- spherical is a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane which can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to the silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane with ethylenically unsaturated groups linked to the silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to the silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopol
- the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to one silicon, and (B2) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups linked to the silicon, especially in the presence (C2) of platinum catalyst, as described, for example, in the application EP-A-295886.
- the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinyl- siloxy terminations and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy terminations, in the presence of platinum catalyst.
- the compound (A2) is the base reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A2) to the compound (B2) in the presence of the catalyst (C2) .
- the compound (A2) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example at C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group can be chosen from amongst the groups vinyl, allyl, and propenyl . These lower alkenyl groups can be situated in any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably situated at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.
- the organopolysiloxane (A2) can have a branched-chain, linear chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear chain structure is preferred.
- the compound (A2) can have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, the compound (A2) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.
- the organopolysiloxanes (A2) can be chosen from amongst the methylvinylsiloxanes, the methylvinylsiloxane- dimethylsiloxane copolymers, the dimethylpolysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, the dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, the dimethyl- siloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, the dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, the dimethylsiloxane- methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, methyl (3, 3, 3- trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane with dimethylviny
- the compound (B2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 hydrogens linked to the silicon in each molecule and is thus the crosslinker of the compound (A2).
- the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (A2) and the number of atoms of hydrogen linked to the silicon per molecule of the compound (B2) is at least 4.
- the compound (B2) can be under any molecular structure, especially of linear chain or branched chain structure, or cyclic structure.
- the compound (B2) can have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially in order to be well miscible with the compound (A) .
- the compound (B2) is added in a quantity such that the molecular ratio between the total quantity of hydrogen atoms linked to the silicon in the compound (B2) and the total quantity of all the groups with ethylenic unsaturation in the compound (A2) runs in the range from 1/1 to 20/1.
- the compound (B2) can be chosen from amongst the methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy terminations, the dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogeno- siloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, and the cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers.
- the compound (C2) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, the chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, the chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, the chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and platinum on a support.
- the catalyst (C2) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better from 1 to 100 parts by weight, considered as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total quantity of the compounds (A2) and
- organic groups can be linked to the silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (A2) and (B2) described previously, such as, for example, alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
- alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl
- substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl
- aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl,
- the non- emulsifying silicone elastomer is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and/or a silicone oil in order to form a gel.
- the non-emulsifying elastomer is in the form of non-spherical particles.
- Non-emulsifying elastomers are especially described in the patents US4970252, US4987169, US 5412004, US5654362, US5760116, and in the application JP-A-61- 194009.
- the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of active substance ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 8% by weight, and more preferentially ranging from 2% to 5% by weight.
- non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is present in the composition according to the invention in a content of active substance ranging ranging from 1% to 8% by weight, and more preferentially ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention can comprise at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer.
- Emulsifying silicone elastomer is understood as meaning a silicone elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain.
- the emulsifying silicone elastomer can be chosen from amongst the elastomers of polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated silicone.
- the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane which can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to the silicon and one polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.
- polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are especially described in the patents US5236986, US5412004, US5837793 and US5811487, the content of which is incorporated by reference.
- the polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer which can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to the silicon and of polyglycerolated compounds having ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst.
- Such polyglycerolated elastomers are especially described in the patent application WO2004/024798.
- composition of the invention comprises at least one lipophilic organic filter.
- Lipophilic filter is understood as meaning a filter which is solubilized or dispersed in the fatty phase of the composition.
- the lipophilic UV filters utilizable in the compositions according to the invention, it is possible to mention those chosen from amongst the p- aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; the salicylic derivatives, the dibenzoylmethane derivatives; the cinnamic derivatives, the ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate derivatives; the benzophenone derivatives; the camphor derivatives; the triazine derivatives such as those described in the patent applications US 4367390, EP863145, EP517104, EP570838, EP796851, EP775698, EP878469, EP933376, EP507691, EP507692, EP790243, EP944624; the benzotriazole derivatives; the anthranilates ; the imidazoline derivatives; the benzalmalonate derivatives, especially those cited in the patent US5624663; the benzimidazole derivatives; the benzoxazole derivatives such as described in the
- lipophilic organic filters As examples of lipophilic organic filters, it is possible to mention:
- the para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives Ethyl para-aminobenzoate,
- Ethyl dihydroxypropyl para-aminobenzoate 2-Ethylhexyl p-dimethylaminobenzoate (INCI name: Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA) sold especially under the name "ESCALOL 507" by ISP,
- homosalate such as the replacement commercially available under the name of "KEMESTER HMS" by Witco. It corresponds to the following formula:
- HELIOPAN OS by HAARMANN and REIMER
- TEA salicylate sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN TS” by HAARMANN and REIMER
- 2-Ethylhexyl ⁇ -cyano- ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate also called octocrylene
- octocrylene is a liquid lipophilic filter known for its activity in the UV-B. It is sold especially under the name of "UVINUL N 539" by BASF and it corresponds to the following formula:
- .C C-COOCH 2 CHC 4 H 9 CN C 2 H 5 in which ⁇ designates a phenyl radical.
- Ethyl 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate also called etocrylene, such as, for example, that sold under the name "UVINUL N35" by BASF,
- Benzophenone-8 sold under the commercial name "Spectra- Sorb UV-24” by American Cyanamid, 2, 2' -dihydroxy-4, 4' -dimethoxy-5-sulphobenzophenone (or Benzophenone-9) sold under the commercial name "UVINUL DS-49" by BASF,
- R designates a 2-ethylhexyl radical, diethylhexylbutamidotriazone sold under the commercial name "UVASORB HEB” by SIGMA 3V,
- Menthyl anthranilate (ester of menthol and of o- anthranilic acid) sold under the commercial name "NEO HELIOPAN MA" by HAARMANN and REIMER,
- Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as the polysilicone-15 sold under the commercial name "PARSOL SLX" by HOFFMANN LAROCHE
- the more particularly preferred lipophilic organic filters are chosen from amongst the cinnamic derivatives .
- the lipophilic filter (s) can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 10 % by weight.
- the lipophilic filter (s) are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 20 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2 to 10 % by weight, preferentially from 3 to 10%, preferably again from 5 to 10% with respect to the total weight of the composition .
- non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is present in the composition according to the invention in a content of active substance ranging ranging from 1% to 8% by weight, and more preferentially ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition
- the lipophilic filter (s) are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 20 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2 to 10 % by weight, preferentially from 3 to 10%, preferably again from 5 to 10% with respect to the total weight of the composition .
- composition of the invention comprises at least isononyl isononanoate.
- the object of the invention is the use of the isononyl isononanoate in order to improve the compatibility of the elastomer and of the filter in the fatty phase of a composition.
- the isononyl isononanoate can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, and more preferentially from 2 to 20% by we ight .
- the mass ratio of isononyl isononanoate/ (non-emulsifying silicon elastomer + organic lipophile filter (s) ) range from 0,1 to 1, preferably from 0,2 to 0,8, more preferably from 0,2 to 0,5.
- composition of the invention can comprise at least one additional non-hydroxylated poly-branched monoester.
- the additional non-hydroxylated poly-branched mono- esters in accordance with the invention can especially correspond to the following formula (I):
- Ri and R 2 separately represent a branched alkyl radical of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds.
- the total number of carbon atoms of Ri + R 2 is greater than or equal to 6, and better still greater than or equal to 15.
- Ri is a non-substituted branched alkyl group of 5 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 10 carbon atoms and R 2 is a non-substituted branched alkyl group of 5 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 10 carbon atoms .
- Examples of groups Ri are those derivatives of the fatty acids chosen in the group constituted of the isobutyric, isopentanoic, neopentanoic, isohexanoic, isooctanoic, ethylhexanoic, isodecanoic, neodecanoic, isopalmitic, isostearic and octyl-dodecanoic acids.
- non-hydroxylated poly-branched monoesters according to the invention are at Cio to C 4 o and especially from C 12 to C25 and more particularly at Ci 5 to C 22 .
- the mono- esters according to the invention can have a molecular mass of between 250 and 500 g/mol.
- the ester will be chosen, preferably, from amongst the following compounds:
- the external fatty phase of the composition according to the invention can comprise at least one additional, volatile or non-volatile oil.
- Volatile oil is understood as meaning an oil capable of evaporating from the skin, in less than an hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. This oil especially has a vapour pressure, at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ⁇ 3 to 300 mm of Hg), especially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm of Hg), and in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm of Hg).
- the volatile oil generally has a boiling point, measured at atmospheric pressure, ranging from 150 0 C to 260 0 C, and especially ranging from 170°C to 250 0 C.
- the volatile oil contains one or more volatile organic oils of which the flash point ranges from 30°C to 102°C, in particular from 40 0 C to 55°C, and especially from 40 0 C to 50 0 C, and their mixtures.
- Non-volatile oil is understood as meaning any medium capable of remaining on the skin for several hours.
- a non-volatile oil has, in particular, a non-zero vapour pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, lower than 0.001 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa) .
- the liquid fatty phase (or oily phase) of the emulsion according to the invention contains at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, which according to the first aspect of the invention is at least isohexadecane .
- Hydrocarbon oil is understood as meaning an oil formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon atoms and of hydrogen, and optionally of oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. It can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
- volatile oil which can be used in the invention, it is possible to mention the linear or branched, volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and their mixtures and especially the C 8 -Ci 6 branched alkanes such as the C 8 -Ci 6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) , isododecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the commercial names of Isopars ® or of Permethyls ® , the C 8 -Ci 6 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate and their mixtures. Isohexadecane is used in particular.
- the volatile oils can likewise be silicone oils optionally containing pendent alkyl or alkoxy groups, or at the end of the silicone chain, fluorinated volatile oils, and their mixtures.
- a volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention it is possible to mention the linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at ambient temperature lower than 8 mm 2 /s and especially having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms pendent or at the end of each silicone.
- a volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, it is possible to mention especially octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta- siloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl- hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexa- methyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl- tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and their mixtures .
- fluorinated volatile oil it is possible to mention nonafluoroethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxy- butane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and their mixtures.
- the composition according to the invention can comprise, apart from the non-hydroxylated poly-branched mono- ester, at least one, preferably cyclic, volatile silicone oil.
- the additional volatile oil can be present in a content ranging from 1% to 80% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 50% by weight and in an even more preferential manner from 3 to 30%.
- the composition can comprise, apart from the non- hydroxylated poly-branched monoester, at least one other non-volatile oil.
- non-volatile oils which can be used in the invention, it is possible to mention the hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin such as the linear or branched hydrocarbons such as paraffin oil or its derivatives, liquid paraffin, the polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam marketed by NIPPON OIL FATS, squalane of synthetic or vegetable origin; the oils of animal origin such as perhydro- squalene; the hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin with a high content of triglycerides constituted of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol of which the fatty acids can have varied chain lengths, where the latter can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, especially the fatty acid triglycerides, especially of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, such as the triglycerides of heptanoic and octanoic acids, and capric/caprylic acids or indeed additionally the hydroxylated triglycerides, such as sweet-almond,
- the composition can comprise one or more non-volatile oils in a content ranging from 0.1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 1 to 50% by weight and in an even more preferential manner from 2 to 30% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
- the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention can likewise comprise at least one wax, at least one gum and/or at least one pasty fatty substance, of vegetable, animal, mineral or of synthetic, siliconized or non-siliconized origin.
- “Wax” in the sense of the present invention is understood as meaning a fatty lipophilic compound, solid at ambient temperature (25°C), with a reversible change of solid/liquid state, having a melting temperature greater than 30 0 C which can range up to 200 0 C, a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa, and in the solid state having an anisotropic crystalline organization.
- a melting temperature greater than 30 0 C which can range up to 200 0 C, a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa
- On raising the wax to its melting temperature it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on bringing back the temperature of the mixture to the ambient temperature, a recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture is obtained.
- the waxes in the sense of the present invention, can be siliconized and/or fluorinated hydrocarbons, optionally containing ester or hydroxyl functions. They are especially of natural origin such as optionally modified beeswax, Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricoury, Japan wax, of fibres of cork or of sugar cane, ceresin, the paraffin and lignite waxes, the microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, Montan wax, the ozokerites, the hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil or copolymers of ethylene, the waxes obtained by Fischer- Tropsch synthesis, the esters of fatty acids and the glycerides solid at 45°C, the silicone waxes such as the alkyl, alkoxy and/or [lacuna] esters of poly (di) methyl-siloxane solid at 45°C, having from 10 to 45 carbon atoms, certain fatty acids such as stearic, myristic, or behenic acid,
- the wax can represent from 0.1 to 30% by weight, especially from 0.5 to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. According to one mode of realization, the composition can be free from waxes.
- “Pasty compound” in the sense of the invention is understood as meaning a compound having a melting point ranging from 25 to 60 0 C, preferably from 30 to 45°C and a hardness ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.005 to 0.4 MPa.
- PDMS having pendent chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms such as stearyldimethicone and especially those sold by DOW CORNING under the references DC2503 or DC05514; the fatty alcohol or fatty acid esters having from 20 to 25 carbon atoms (a melting point especially of 20 to 35°C and/or a viscosity at 40 0 C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.
- composition of the invention can likewise comprise at least one alkyl, alkoxy or phenyldimethicone such as, for example, the product sold under the name of "Abil wax 2440 ® " by GOLDSCHMIDT.
- the composition according to the invention can comprise at least one aqueous phase containing water.
- the water can be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and/or thermal water .
- This aqueous phase can likewise comprise organic solvents miscible with water (25°C) such as, for example, the primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, the glycols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, the glycol ethers, the Ci-C 4 alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and their mixtures.
- organic solvents miscible with water 25°C
- the primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol
- the glycols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, the glycol ethers, the Ci-C 4 alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and their mixtures.
- the aqueous phase can moreover comprise stabilizing agents, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulphate.
- stabilizing agents for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulphate.
- any water-soluble or water- dispersible compound compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surface active agents and their mixtures.
- the aqueous phase, and especially the water, 5 can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 60% by weight, especially from 5 to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention can comprise a pulverulent phase especially chosen from amongst the pigments, the fillers and/or the nacres and their5 mixtures .
- the composition according to the invention can comprise pigments . 0
- Pigments must be understood as comprising inorganic or organic particles, insoluble in the liquid organic phase, intended to colour and/or opacify the composition . 5
- the pigments can be inorganic or organic pigments.
- the metallic oxides such as the iron oxides (especially those of yellow, red, brown or black colour) , the titanium dioxides, Q cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, chromium oxide; manganese violet, ultramarine blue, Prussian blue, ferric blue and their mixtures.
- Pigments of iron oxides and/or of titanium dioxide are preferably used.
- the pigments can be treated with a hydrophobic agent to render them compatible with the organic phase of the composition.
- the hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen from amongst the silicones such as the methicones, the dimethicones, the perfluoroalkyl- silanes; the fatty acids such as stearic acid; the metallic soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of the glutamate of hydrogenated tallow, the perfluoroalkyl phosphates, the perfluoroalkyl- silanes, the perfluoroalkylsilazanes, the polyoxides of hexafluoropropylene, the polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, the aminated acids; the N-acyl aminated acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate,
- the N-acyl aminated acids can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
- the salts of these compounds can be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
- the aminated acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
- alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned previously especially designates an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
- Treated hydrophobic pigments are especially described in the application EP-A-1086683.
- the pigments can be coated with metallic soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of the glutamate of hydrogenated tallow, the perfluoroalkyl phosphates, the perfluoroalkylsilanes, the perfluoroalkylsilazanes, the polyoxides of hexafluoro- 5 propylene, the polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, and in particular aluminium glutamate salt.
- metallic soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of the glutamate of hydrogenated tallow, the perfluoroalkyl phosphates, the perfluoroalkylsilanes, the perfluoroalkylsilazanes, the polyoxides of hexafluoro- 5 propylene, the polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, and in particular aluminium gluta
- the pigments can be present, in the composition ] _ Q according to the invention, in a content ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, and more preferentially ranging from 5% to 15% by weight.
- the pulverulent phase of the composition according to the invention can comprise fillers and/or nacres.
- the composition according to the invention can comprise fillers .
- Fillers must be understood as being colourless or 25 white, mineral or synthetic particles of any shape, insoluble in the medium of the composition whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.
- the fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, 3Q platelet-like, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example, leaf, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc) .
- Those which can be mentioned are talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders (Nylon®) , poly- ⁇ -alanine powders, polyethylene powders, methyl polymethacrylates, such as, for example, that marketed under the name of "Techpolymer MBP-8" by SEKISUI PLASTICS, polyurethane powders such as the powder of copolymers of hexamethylene diisocyanate and of trimethylol hexyl lactone sold under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400 by TOSHIKI, the powders of polymers of tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) , the particles of micronized wax, especially the Carnauba microwaxes such as those marketed under the name of
- the ] _ Q composition according to the invention can comprise at least one acrylic polymer powder, in particular of methyl polymethacrylate .
- the fillers can be present in the composition according 15 to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.8% to 10% by weight .
- the particular phase of the composition according to the invention can comprise nacres.
- Nacres must be understood as meaning iridescent particles, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized, insoluble in the medium of the composition.
- the nacres can be chosen from amongst the white nacre pigments such as bismuth oxychloride, mica covered with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, the coloured nacre pigments such as the titanium mica with iron oxides, the titanium mica with especially ferric blue or chromium oxide, the titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforesaid type as well as nacre pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
- the white nacre pigments such as bismuth oxychloride, mica covered with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride
- the coloured nacre pigments such as the titanium mica with iron oxides, the titanium mica with especially ferric blue or chromium oxide, the titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforesaid type as well as nacre pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
- composition according to the invention can comprise additional colorants chosen from amongst the hydrosoluble and liposoluble colorants.
- the hydrosoluble colorants are, for example, beetroot juice, methylene blue and caramel.
- Liposoluble colorants must be understood as meaning generally organic compounds soluble in the fatty substances such as the oils.
- the liposoluble colorants are, for example, Sudan red, D&C Red no. 17, D&C Green no. 6, ⁇ -carotene, soya bean oil, Sudan brown, D&C Yellow no. 11, D&C Violet no. 2, D&C orange no. 5, quinoline yellow, annatto, bromoacids .
- the composition according to the invention can comprise at least one pigment and/or at least one colorant.
- composition according to the invention can be present in different galenical forms, especially water- in-oil or multiple emulsions, and can be present in the form of gel, creams, suspensions, pressed powder, hot casts and sticks. According to a preferred mode of realization, the composition according to the invention can be present in emulsion form, preferentially water-in-oil .
- composition according to the invention can comprise at least one other customary cosmetic ingredient which can be especially chosen from amongst the antioxidants, the perfumes, the preservatives, the neutralizing agents, the surface active agents, the hydrophilic solar filters, the vitamins, the hydrating agents, the self-tanning compounds, the anti-wrinkle active agents, the emollients, the hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, the anti-free radical agents, the deodorant agents, the sequestrants, the film-forming agents, and their mixtures.
- customary cosmetic ingredient which can be especially chosen from amongst the antioxidants, the perfumes, the preservatives, the neutralizing agents, the surface active agents, the hydrophilic solar filters, the vitamins, the hydrating agents, the self-tanning compounds, the anti-wrinkle active agents, the emollients, the hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, the anti-free radical agents, the deodorant agents, the sequestrants, the film-forming agents, and their mixtures.
- a make-up foundation was prepared in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion having the following composition:
- the constituents of Al are weighed into the main beaker: it is placed on a magnetic plate, with stirring
- phase A3 is prepared separately by milling the pigments in a triple-roll mill. Then, with stirring on the Rayneri (deflocculent) , phase A3 is added, then phase A4, and finally phase A5
- aqueous phase B In order to prepare the aqueous phase B, the glycerol and the methylparaben are weighed, then the water heated to 95°C is added. The sodium citrate and finally the phenoxyethanol and the octane 1,2-diol are then incorporated between 40 and 45°C.
- the emulsion is made at ambient temperature: the aqueous phase is poured into the fatty phase while increasing the speed of stirring of the Moritz to
- phase C is added. The stirring is maintained until total incorporation of C.
- the product obtained is then placed with stirring on the Rayneri (deflocculent) at 800 rev.min "1 for 15 min.
- a make-up illuminator was prepared in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion having the following composition:
- the constituents of Al are weighed into the main beaker: it is placed on a magnetic plate, with stirring (bar magnet, 250 rev.min "1 ) and with heating (85°C).
- A2 is added: the stirring is maintained until the obtainment of a homogeneous mixture.
- the phase A3 is added, then the phase A4, then the phase A5
- aqueous phase B In order to prepare the aqueous phase B, the glycerol and the methylparaben are weighed, then the water heated to 95°C is added. The sodium citrate and finally the phenoxyethanol and the octane 1,2-diol are then incorporated between 40 and 45°C.
- the emulsion is made at ambient temperature: the aqueous phase is poured into the fatty phase while increasing the speed of stirring of the Moritz to
- the product obtained is then placed with stirring on the Rayneri (deflocculent) at 800 rev.min "1 .
- phase D is added and the stirring is maintained for 15 min.
- a "feeling well" composition is prepared in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion having the following composition :
- the constituents of Al are weighed into the main beaker: it is placed on a magnetic plate, with stirring
- phase A3 is added, then the phase A4, then the phase A5
- the glycerol and the methylparaben are weighed, then the water heated to 95°C is added. The colorants and finally the phenoxyethanol and the octane 1,2-diol are then incorporated between 40 and 45°C.
- the emulsion is made at ambient temperature: the aqueous phase is poured into the fatty phase while increasing the speed of stirring of the Moritz to 2500 rev.min "1 .
- the product obtained is then placed with stirring on the Rayneri (deflocculent) at 800 rev.min "1 . Then the phase D is added and the stirring is maintained for 15 min.
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for making up or care of the keratinic substances comprising a continuous fatty phase, the said continuous liquid fatty phase comprising at least one lipophilic organic filter, a silicone elastomer, and isononyl isononanoate. The object of the invention is also a non-therapeutic process of making up or of care of the keratinic substances comprising the application to the said keratinic substances of such a composition and its use in order to impart a deposit effectively protecting from the rays of the sun, resistant to water and not providing a greasy effect.
Description
Composition comprising a continuous fatty phase and a specific ester
The object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising a liquid fatty phase, at least one silicone elastomer, a UV filter and a specific ester. The object of the invention is likewise a process for making up and/or care of the keratinic substances, comprising the application of this composition to the said keratinic substances.
The composition of the invention can be present in the form of a composition for care of the skin, or of a solar protection composition. In that case, it is present in uncoloured form, optionally containing cosmetic or dermatological active agents. It can therefore be used as a care base for the keratinic substances such as, especially, the skin or the lips.
The composition of the invention can likewise be present in the form of a coloured product for making up the keratinic substances such as, especially, the skin, and especially a make-up foundation, a blusher, a cheek rouge or eyeshadow, or lip make-up such as a lipstick, optionally comprising cosmetic active agents imparting care properties to them.
The damage by the solar rays (whether they are natural or artificial) to the keratinic substances, and in particular to the skin, is today well known to cosmetic professionals and consumers. More and more cosmetic products, such as, for example, day creams, capillary care compositions or make-up foundations, ensure protection against UV rays, in addition to their
primary function of care or make-up composition. However, the introduction of filters into these compositions often involves a destabilization of these, therefore making them unusable.
Moreover, in order to meet the expectations of the consumers, who wish to profit from the beneficial effects of the sun, giving them a "looking well" effect, while protecting their skin or their hair, the cosmeticians are seeking to manufacture increasingly high-performance sun lotion compositions, from the point of view of solar protection and of the remanence or resistance to water of these compositions. This remanence especially allows the users to go swimming after covering themselves with sun lotion product, while effectively protecting themselves against solar rays .
In order to optimize the remanence of cosmetic compositions, it is known from the document EP-A-893987 to use lipophilic filters, optionally in combination with siliconized compounds such as elastomeric as well as hydrophobic organopolysiloxanes . These elastomeric organopolysiloxanes impart, moreover, properties of softness, of dullness and of non-greasy touch which allow the greasy, shiny and sticky character of the lipophilic filters to be attenuated.
However, the lipophilic filters are poorly compatible with the elastomeric organopolysiloxanes: the mixture obtained is unstable in the course of time, of granular or opaque appearance and, in certain cases, it is not possible to produce. The gelling properties of the elastomeric organopolysiloxanes are altered by it. This
is especially true for high content (in active substance) of elastomeric organopolysiloxanes for gelling properties and high content of lipophilic filters for SPF value. In particular for content of at least 1% (in active substance) of elastomeric organopolysiloxanes .
There is thus a need for cosmetic compositions effectively protecting against the rays of the sun while being stable in the course of time, and resistant to water without imparting a greasy effect.
The inventors have shown that it was possible to obtain such a composition by combining a lipophilic organic filter, a silicone elastomer and a specific ester in a composition comprising an external fatty phase.
The object of the invention is also a cosmetic composition for making up or care of the keratinic substances comprising a continuous fatty phase, the said continuous fatty phase comprising at least:
- a silicone elastomer,
- a lipophilic organic filter, and
- isononyl isononanoate .
The object of the invention is furthermore a non- therapeutic process for making up or care of the keratinic substances comprising the application to the said keratinic substances of a composition such as previously described.
The object of the invention is finally the use of a composition such as previously described in order to confer a deposit protecting effectively from the rays
- A - of the sun, resistant to water and not providing a greasy effect.
Elastomeric organopolysiloxanes
The composition of the invention comprises at least one non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxane (also called silicone elastomer) .
"Non-emulsifying" silicone elastomer is understood in the sense of the present invention as meaning organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerolated units.
In a preferred embodiment, non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is in the form of non-spherical particles (non-emulsifying non-spherical silicone elastomer) .
The non-emulsifying silicone elastomer especially non- spherical, is a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane which can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to the silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane with ethylenically unsaturated groups linked to the silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to the silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a hydrolysable
organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.
Preferably, the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to one silicon, and (B2) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups linked to the silicon, especially in the presence (C2) of platinum catalyst, as described, for example, in the application EP-A-295886. In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinyl- siloxy terminations and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy terminations, in the presence of platinum catalyst.
The compound (A2) is the base reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A2) to the compound (B2) in the presence of the catalyst (C2) .
The compound (A2) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example at C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group can be chosen from amongst the groups vinyl, allyl, and propenyl . These lower alkenyl groups can be situated in any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably situated at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (A2) can
have a branched-chain, linear chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear chain structure is preferred. The compound (A2) can have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, the compound (A2) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.
The organopolysiloxanes (A2) can be chosen from amongst the methylvinylsiloxanes, the methylvinylsiloxane- dimethylsiloxane copolymers, the dimethylpolysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, the dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, the dimethyl- siloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, the dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, the dimethylsiloxane- methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, methyl (3, 3, 3- trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, and the dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3, 3, 3- trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations.
The compound (B2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 hydrogens linked to the silicon in each molecule and is thus the crosslinker of the compound (A2).
Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (A2) and the number of atoms of hydrogen linked to the silicon per molecule of the compound (B2) is at least 4.
The compound (B2) can be under any molecular structure, especially of linear chain or branched chain structure, or cyclic structure.
The compound (B2) can have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially in order to be well miscible with the compound (A) .
It is advantageous that the compound (B2) is added in a quantity such that the molecular ratio between the total quantity of hydrogen atoms linked to the silicon in the compound (B2) and the total quantity of all the groups with ethylenic unsaturation in the compound (A2) runs in the range from 1/1 to 20/1. The compound (B2) can be chosen from amongst the methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes with trimethylsiloxy terminations, the dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogeno- siloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, and the cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers.
The compound (C2) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, the chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, the chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, the chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and platinum on a support.
The catalyst (C2) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better from 1 to 100 parts by weight, considered as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total quantity of the compounds (A2) and
(B2) .
Other organic groups can be linked to the silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (A2) and (B2) described previously, such as, for example, alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-
trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
According to a preferred mode of realization, the non- emulsifying silicone elastomer is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and/or a silicone oil in order to form a gel. In these gels, the non-emulsifying elastomer is in the form of non-spherical particles.
Non-emulsifying elastomers are especially described in the patents US4970252, US4987169, US 5412004, US5654362, US5760116, and in the application JP-A-61- 194009.
As non-emulsifying elastomers, it is possible to use those sold under the names "KSG-6", "KSG-15", "KSG-I 6", "KSG-18", "KSG-41", "KSG-42", "KSG-43", "KSG-44", "USG- 105", "USG-106" by Shin Etsu, "DC 9040", "DC9041", "DC9045", "DC 9509", "DC9505", "DC 9506" by Dow Corning, "GRANSIL" by Grant Industries, and "SFE 839" by General Electric.
The non-emulsifying silicone elastomer can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content of active substance ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 8% by weight, and more preferentially ranging from 2% to 5% by weight.
In a preferred embodiment, and for good gelling properties, non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is
present in the composition according to the invention in a content of active substance ranging ranging from 1% to 8% by weight, and more preferentially ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
Apart from the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer, the composition according to the invention can comprise at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer.
Emulsifying silicone elastomer is understood as meaning a silicone elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain.
The emulsifying silicone elastomer can be chosen from amongst the elastomers of polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated silicone.
The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane which can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to the silicon and one polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.
The polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are especially described in the patents US5236986, US5412004, US5837793 and US5811487, the content of which is incorporated by reference.
As a polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer, it is possible to use those marketed under the names "KSG- 21", "KSG-20", "KSG-30", "KSG-31", KSG-32", "KSG-33", "KSG-210", "KSG-310", "KSG-320", "KSG-330", "KSG-340",
"X-226146" by Shin Etsu, and "DC9010", "DC9011" by Dow Corning.
The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer which can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to the silicon and of polyglycerolated compounds having ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst.
Such polyglycerolated elastomers are especially described in the patent application WO2004/024798.
As polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, it is possible to use those sold under the names "KSG-710", "KSG-810", "KSG-820", "KSG-830", "KSG-840" by Shin Etsu.
Lipophilic organic filter
Apart from the elastomeric organopolysiloxane, the composition of the invention comprises at least one lipophilic organic filter.
"Lipophilic" filter is understood as meaning a filter which is solubilized or dispersed in the fatty phase of the composition.
Amongst the lipophilic UV filters utilizable in the compositions according to the invention, it is possible to mention those chosen from amongst the p- aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; the salicylic derivatives, the dibenzoylmethane derivatives; the cinnamic derivatives, the β, β-diphenylacrylate
derivatives; the benzophenone derivatives; the camphor derivatives; the triazine derivatives such as those described in the patent applications US 4367390, EP863145, EP517104, EP570838, EP796851, EP775698, EP878469, EP933376, EP507691, EP507692, EP790243, EP944624; the benzotriazole derivatives; the anthranilates ; the imidazoline derivatives; the benzalmalonate derivatives, especially those cited in the patent US5624663; the benzimidazole derivatives; the benzoxazole derivatives such as described in the patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; the filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described especially in the application WO-93/04665; the dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in the patent application DE19855649, the 4, 4-diarylbutadienes such as those described in the patent applications DE19755649, EP916335, EP1133980, EP1133981 and EP-A-1008586 and their mixtures.
As examples of lipophilic organic filters, it is possible to mention:
The para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives: Ethyl para-aminobenzoate,
Ethyl dihydroxypropyl para-aminobenzoate, 2-Ethylhexyl p-dimethylaminobenzoate (INCI name: Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA) sold especially under the name "ESCALOL 507" by ISP,
Salicylic derivatives:
Homomenthyl salicylate also known under the name homosalate, such as the produit commercially available
under the name of "KEMESTER HMS" by Witco. It corresponds to the following formula:
2-Ethylhexyl salicylate, sold especially under the commercial name of "UVINUL 0-18" by BASF, and corresponding to the following formula: H9
Homosalate sold under the name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona/EM
Industries,
2-Ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name "NEO
HELIOPAN OS" by HAARMANN and REIMER, TEA salicylate, sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN TS" by HAARMANN and REIMER,
Dibenzoylmethane derivatives:
4-tert-Butyl-4 ' -methoxydibenzoylmethane as absorbent in the UV-A, sold under the commercial name of "PARSOL 1789" by GIVAUDAN and which corresponds to the following structural formula:
4-Isopropyldibenzoylmethane, filter sold under the name of "EUSOLEX 8020" by MERCK, and corresponding to the following structural formula:
Cinnamic derivatives:
Isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate,
2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, methyl diisopropylcinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate such as that sold under the commercial name "NEO HELIOPAN E 1000" by HAARMANN and REIMER, diethanolamine 4-methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate,
cinoxate .
Amongst the derivatives of cinnamic acid mentioned above, it is very particularly preferred, according to the present invention, to employ 2-ethylhexyl p- methoxycinnamate, sold especially under the commercial name "PARSOL MCX" by GIVAUDAN; this filter thus corresponding to the following structural formula:
J3, j3-Diphenylacrylate derivatives :
2-Ethylhexyl α-cyano-β, β-diphenylacrylate, also called octocrylene, is a liquid lipophilic filter known for its activity in the UV-B. It is sold especially under the name of "UVINUL N 539" by BASF and it corresponds to the following formula:
.C=C-COOCH2CHC4H9 CN C2H5 in which Φ designates a phenyl radical.
Ethyl 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate, also called etocrylene, such as, for example, that sold under the name "UVINUL N35" by BASF,
Benzophenone derivatives:
2, 4-Dihydroxybenzoρhenone (or Benzophenone-1) sold under the commercial name "UVINUL 400" by BASF, 2, 2' , 4, 4' -tetrahydroxybenzophenone (or Benzophenone-2)
sold under the commercial name "UVINUL D50" by BASF, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone) , sold under the commercial name "UVINUL M40" by BASF, 2, 2' -Dihydroxy-4, 4' -dimethoxybenzophenone (or
Benzophenone-6) sold under the commercial name "Helisorb 11" by Norquay,
Benzophenone-8 sold under the commercial name "Spectra- Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid, 2, 2' -dihydroxy-4, 4' -dimethoxy-5-sulphobenzophenone (or Benzophenone-9) sold under the commercial name "UVINUL DS-49" by BASF,
2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone known as an absorbent in the UV-A and the UV-B and sold especially under the commercial name "EUSOLEX 4360" by Merck, n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate .
Benzylidenecamphor derivatives:
3-Benzylidene-D, L-camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SD" by CHIMEX, p-methylbenzylidenecamphor known as an absorbent in the UV-B and sold especially under the commercial name "EUSOLEX 6300" by Merck.
Triazine derivatives:
2, 4-bis ( (4- (2-Ethylethyloxy) -2-hydroxy) phenyl) -6- (4- methoxyphenyl) - (1, 3, 5) triazine) (or bis-Ethylhexyl- oxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) sold under the commercial name "TINOSORB S" by CIBA GEIGY,
2,4, 6-tris [p- (2 ' -ethylhexyl-1 ' -oxycarbonyl) anilino] - 1, 3, 5-triazine (or Ethylhexyl triazone sold especially under the commercial name "UVINUL T150" by BASF) as an absorbent in the UV-B and which is sold especially
under the commercial name of "UVINUL T 150" by BASF. This product corresponds to the following formula:
in which R designates a 2-ethylhexyl radical, diethylhexylbutamidotriazone sold under the commercial name "UVASORB HEB" by SIGMA 3V,
2,4, 6-tris (dineopentyl 4' -aminobenzalmalonate) -s- triazine,
2,4, 6-tris (diisobutyl 4' -aminobenzalmalonate) -s- triazine .
Benzotriazole derivatives:
Such as those known under the I. N. C. I. name drometrizole trisiloxane, sold under the name "Silatrizole" by RHODIA CHIMIE,
Anthranilic derivatives:
Menthyl anthranilate (ester of menthol and of o- anthranilic acid) sold under the commercial name "NEO HELIOPAN MA" by HAARMANN and REIMER,
Imidazoline derivatives:
Such as those known under the I. N. C. I. name Ethylhexyl
Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate,
Benzalmalonate derivatives:
Such as those known under the I. N. C. I. name: Di-neopentyl 4' -methoxybenzalmalonate,
Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as the polysilicone-15 sold under the commercial name "PARSOL SLX" by HOFFMANN LAROCHE
4 , 4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives:
1, 1-dicarboxy- (2' 2' -dimethylpropyl) -4, 4-diphenyl- butadiene
Benzoxazole derivatives:
2, 4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) - imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1 , 3, 5-triazine sold under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V;
and their mixtures.
The more particularly preferred lipophilic organic filters are chosen from amongst the cinnamic derivatives .
The lipophilic filter (s) can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 10 % by weight.
In a particular embodiment, the lipophilic filter (s) are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 20 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the
composition, preferably from 2 to 10 % by weight, preferentially from 3 to 10%, preferably again from 5 to 10% with respect to the total weight of the composition .
In a preferred embodiment, non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is present in the composition according to the invention in a content of active substance ranging ranging from 1% to 8% by weight, and more preferentially ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and the lipophilic filter (s) are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 20 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2 to 10 % by weight, preferentially from 3 to 10%, preferably again from 5 to 10% with respect to the total weight of the composition .
Isononyl isononanoate
The composition of the invention comprises at least isononyl isononanoate.
According to another aspect, the object of the invention is the use of the isononyl isononanoate in order to improve the compatibility of the elastomer and of the filter in the fatty phase of a composition.
The isononyl isononanoate can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, and more preferentially from 2 to 20% by
we ight .
In a preferred embodiment, the mass ratio of isononyl isononanoate/ (non-emulsifying silicon elastomer + organic lipophile filter (s) ) range from 0,1 to 1, preferably from 0,2 to 0,8, more preferably from 0,2 to 0,5.
Additional non-hydroxylated poly-branched monoester
Apart from the isononyl isononanoate, the composition of the invention can comprise at least one additional non-hydroxylated poly-branched monoester.
The additional non-hydroxylated poly-branched mono- esters in accordance with the invention can especially correspond to the following formula (I):
Ri-CO-O-R2 (I)
where Ri and R2 separately represent a branched alkyl radical of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds.
Preferably, the total number of carbon atoms of Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 6, and better still greater than or equal to 15.
Preferably, Ri is a non-substituted branched alkyl group of 5 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 10 carbon atoms and R2 is a non-substituted branched alkyl group of 5 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 10
carbon atoms .
Examples of groups Ri are those derivatives of the fatty acids chosen in the group constituted of the isobutyric, isopentanoic, neopentanoic, isohexanoic, isooctanoic, ethylhexanoic, isodecanoic, neodecanoic, isopalmitic, isostearic and octyl-dodecanoic acids.
More particularly, the non-hydroxylated poly-branched monoesters according to the invention are at Cio to C4o and especially from C12 to C25 and more particularly at Ci5 to C22.
Examples of esters which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are, for example, isodecyl neopentanoate (M=242), isodecyl isononanoate (M = 298.51), isotridecyl isononanoate (M = 340.59), isostearyl isononanoate (M = 410.73), 2- hexyldecyl isononanoate (M = 382.67), 2-ethylhexyl 2- ethylhexanoate (M = 256.43), isostearyl isostearate (M 536), 2-ethylhexyl isostearate (M = 396.70), isostearyl neopentanoate (M = 354.62), 2-octyldodecyl 2-ethylhexanoate (424.75), 2-octyldodecyl neodecanoate (M = 452.80) .
According to a specific mode of realization, the mono- esters according to the invention can have a molecular mass of between 250 and 500 g/mol.
The ester will be chosen, preferably, from amongst the following compounds:
2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate (M= 256.43), isodecyl isononanoate (M= 298.51), isotridecyl isononanoate (M= 340.59),
isostearyl neopentanoate (M= 354.62), 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate (M= 382.67), 2-hexyldecyl isononanoate (M= 382.67), 2-ethylhexyl isostearate (M= 396.70), - isostearyl isononanoate (M= 410.73),
2-octyldodecyl 2-ethylhexanoate (424.75), 2-octyldodecyl neodecanoate (M= 452.80), and their mixtures.
Fatty phase
Besides the isononyl isononanoate and optionally the additional non-hydroxylated poly-branched monoester, the external fatty phase of the composition according to the invention can comprise at least one additional, volatile or non-volatile oil.
"Volatile oil" is understood as meaning an oil capable of evaporating from the skin, in less than an hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. This oil especially has a vapour pressure, at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10~3 to 300 mm of Hg), especially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm of Hg), and in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm of Hg).
Moreover, the volatile oil generally has a boiling point, measured at atmospheric pressure, ranging from 1500C to 2600C, and especially ranging from 170°C to 2500C.
Advantageously, the volatile oil contains one or more volatile organic oils of which the flash point ranges from 30°C to 102°C, in particular from 400C to 55°C,
and especially from 400C to 500C, and their mixtures.
"Non-volatile oil" is understood as meaning any medium capable of remaining on the skin for several hours. A non-volatile oil has, in particular, a non-zero vapour pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, lower than 0.001 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa) . The liquid fatty phase (or oily phase) of the emulsion according to the invention contains at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, which according to the first aspect of the invention is at least isohexadecane .
Hydrocarbon oil is understood as meaning an oil formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon atoms and of hydrogen, and optionally of oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. It can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
As a volatile oil which can be used in the invention, it is possible to mention the linear or branched, volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and their mixtures and especially the C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as the C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) , isododecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the commercial names of Isopars® or of Permethyls®, the C8-Ci6 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate and their mixtures. Isohexadecane is used in particular.
The volatile oils can likewise be silicone oils optionally containing pendent alkyl or alkoxy groups, or at the end of the silicone chain, fluorinated volatile oils, and their mixtures.
As a volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, it is possible to mention the linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at ambient temperature lower than 8 mm2/s and especially having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms pendent or at the end of each silicone. As a volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, it is possible to mention especially octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta- siloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl- hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexa- methyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl- tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and their mixtures .
As a fluorinated volatile oil, it is possible to mention nonafluoroethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxy- butane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and their mixtures.
According to a preferred mode of realization, the composition according to the invention can comprise, apart from the non-hydroxylated poly-branched mono- ester, at least one, preferably cyclic, volatile silicone oil.
The additional volatile oil can be present in a content ranging from 1% to 80% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 50% by weight and in an even more preferential manner from 3 to 30%.
The composition can comprise, apart from the non- hydroxylated poly-branched monoester, at least one other non-volatile oil.
As non-volatile oils which can be used in the invention, it is possible to mention the hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin such as the linear or branched hydrocarbons such as paraffin oil or its derivatives, liquid paraffin, the polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam marketed by NIPPON OIL FATS, squalane of synthetic or vegetable origin; the oils of animal origin such as perhydro- squalene; the hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin with a high content of triglycerides constituted of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol of which the fatty acids can have varied chain lengths, where the latter can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, especially the fatty acid triglycerides, especially of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, such as the triglycerides of heptanoic and octanoic acids, and capric/caprylic acids or indeed additionally the hydroxylated triglycerides, such as sweet-almond, calophyllum, palm, grape pip, sesame, arara, colza, sunflower, cotton, apricot, castor, alfalfa, cucurbit, blackcurrant, macadamia, rose hip, hazelnut, avocado, jojoba, olive, cereal germs (maize, wheat, barley, rye) or karite butter oil; fatty acid esters, in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and especially of octanoic acid, of heptanoic acid, of lanoleic acid, of oleic acid, of lauric acid, of stearic acid such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, polyglyceryl 2- diisostearate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate; the different synthetic esters of the non-hydroxylated poly-branched monoester, such as, for example, the Ci2 to Ci5 alcohol benzoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, 2-
octyldodecyl benzoate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2- hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2- octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, glycerol or diglycerol triisostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; pentaerythritol esters; esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 carbon atoms, especially tridecyl trimellitate; C8-C26 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; the C8-C26 higher fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, linoleyl or linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol; synthetic ethers with at least 7 carbon atoms, linear, optionally phenylated silicone oils such as the polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) liquid at ambient temperature, such as the phenyltrimethicones, the phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl- siloxanes, the diphenyldimethicones, the diphenyl- methyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, the liquid 2-phenylethyl- trimethylsiloxysilicates, optionally substitued by aliphatic and/or aromatic groups such as the alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms and optionally fluorinated, or by functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups; the polysiloxanes modified by fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes such as the dimethicone copolyols or the alkylmethicone copolyols; fluorinated liquid silicones; or additionally the caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by STEARINERIES Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818
by DYNAMIT NOBEL, and their mixtures.
The composition can comprise one or more non-volatile oils in a content ranging from 0.1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 1 to 50% by weight and in an even more preferential manner from 2 to 30% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention can likewise comprise at least one wax, at least one gum and/or at least one pasty fatty substance, of vegetable, animal, mineral or of synthetic, siliconized or non-siliconized origin.
"Wax" in the sense of the present invention is understood as meaning a fatty lipophilic compound, solid at ambient temperature (25°C), with a reversible change of solid/liquid state, having a melting temperature greater than 300C which can range up to 2000C, a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa, and in the solid state having an anisotropic crystalline organization. On raising the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on bringing back the temperature of the mixture to the ambient temperature, a recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture is obtained.
The waxes, in the sense of the present invention, can be siliconized and/or fluorinated hydrocarbons, optionally containing ester or hydroxyl functions. They are especially of natural origin such as optionally modified beeswax, Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricoury, Japan wax, of fibres of cork or of sugar cane, ceresin, the paraffin and lignite waxes, the microcrystalline
waxes, lanolin wax, Montan wax, the ozokerites, the hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil or copolymers of ethylene, the waxes obtained by Fischer- Tropsch synthesis, the esters of fatty acids and the glycerides solid at 45°C, the silicone waxes such as the alkyl, alkoxy and/or [lacuna] esters of poly (di) methyl-siloxane solid at 45°C, having from 10 to 45 carbon atoms, certain fatty acids such as stearic, myristic, or behenic acid, and their mixtures.
The wax can represent from 0.1 to 30% by weight, especially from 0.5 to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. According to one mode of realization, the composition can be free from waxes.
"Pasty compound" in the sense of the invention is understood as meaning a compound having a melting point ranging from 25 to 600C, preferably from 30 to 45°C and a hardness ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.005 to 0.4 MPa.
By way of example of pasty fatty substances, it is possible to mention the PDMS having pendent chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms such as stearyldimethicone and especially those sold by DOW CORNING under the references DC2503 or DC05514; the fatty alcohol or fatty acid esters having from 20 to 25 carbon atoms (a melting point especially of 20 to 35°C and/or a viscosity at 400C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa. s) such as the esters of cholesterol such as the triglycerides of hydrogenated vegetable origin such as, for example, the hydrogenated ricin oil sold under the name "Thixin R" by RHEOX, vinyl polylaurate, arachidyl propionate, triisostearyl or cetyl citrate,
the copolymer PVP/Eicosene; the isopropyllanolins, having a viscosity of 10 to 25 Pa. s, preferably of 19 to 25 Pa. s and/or a melting point of 25 to 45°C and their mixtures. The composition of the invention can likewise comprise at least one alkyl, alkoxy or phenyldimethicone such as, for example, the product sold under the name of "Abil wax 2440®" by GOLDSCHMIDT.
Aqueous phase
The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one aqueous phase containing water. The water can be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and/or thermal water .
This aqueous phase can likewise comprise organic solvents miscible with water (25°C) such as, for example, the primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, the glycols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, the glycol ethers, the Ci-C4 alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and their mixtures.
The aqueous phase can moreover comprise stabilizing agents, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulphate.
It can likewise incorporate any water-soluble or water- dispersible compound compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers,
thickeners, surface active agents and their mixtures.
According to the second mode of realization of the invention, the aqueous phase, and especially the water, 5 can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 60% by weight, especially from 5 to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. 0 Pulverulent phase
The composition according to the invention can comprise a pulverulent phase especially chosen from amongst the pigments, the fillers and/or the nacres and their5 mixtures .
According to a preferred mode of realization, the composition according to the invention can comprise pigments . 0
"Pigments" must be understood as comprising inorganic or organic particles, insoluble in the liquid organic phase, intended to colour and/or opacify the composition . 5
The pigments can be inorganic or organic pigments. As pigments, it is possible to use the metallic oxides such as the iron oxides (especially those of yellow, red, brown or black colour) , the titanium dioxides,Q cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, chromium oxide; manganese violet, ultramarine blue, Prussian blue, ferric blue and their mixtures.
Pigments of iron oxides and/or of titanium dioxide are preferably used.
The pigments can be treated with a hydrophobic agent to render them compatible with the organic phase of the composition. The hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen from amongst the silicones such as the methicones, the dimethicones, the perfluoroalkyl- silanes; the fatty acids such as stearic acid; the metallic soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of the glutamate of hydrogenated tallow, the perfluoroalkyl phosphates, the perfluoroalkyl- silanes, the perfluoroalkylsilazanes, the polyoxides of hexafluoropropylene, the polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, the aminated acids; the N-acyl aminated acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and their mixtures .
The N-acyl aminated acids can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds can be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The aminated acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned previously especially designates an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms. Treated hydrophobic pigments are especially described in the application EP-A-1086683.
According to a preferred mode of realization, the pigments can be coated with metallic soaps such as
aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of the glutamate of hydrogenated tallow, the perfluoroalkyl phosphates, the perfluoroalkylsilanes, the perfluoroalkylsilazanes, the polyoxides of hexafluoro- 5 propylene, the polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, and in particular aluminium glutamate salt.
The pigments can be present, in the composition ]_Q according to the invention, in a content ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, and more preferentially ranging from 5% to 15% by weight.
15
Besides the pigments, the pulverulent phase of the composition according to the invention can comprise fillers and/or nacres.
20 According to a preferred mode of realization, the composition according to the invention can comprise fillers .
Fillers must be understood as being colourless or 25 white, mineral or synthetic particles of any shape, insoluble in the medium of the composition whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.
The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, 3Q platelet-like, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example, leaf, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc) . Those which can be mentioned are talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders (Nylon®) , poly-β-alanine powders, polyethylene
powders, methyl polymethacrylates, such as, for example, that marketed under the name of "Techpolymer MBP-8" by SEKISUI PLASTICS, polyurethane powders such as the powder of copolymers of hexamethylene diisocyanate and of trimethylol hexyl lactone sold under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400 by TOSHIKI, the powders of polymers of tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) , the particles of micronized wax, especially the Carnauba microwaxes such as those marketed under the name of "MicroCare 350®" by MICRO POWDERS, the synthetic wax microwaxes such as those marketed under the name of "MicroEase 114S®" by MICRO POWDERS, the microwaxes constituted of a mixture of Carnauba wax and of polyethylene wax such as those marketed under the names of "MicroCare 300®" and "310®" by MICRO POWDERS, the microwaxes constituted of a mixture of Carnauba wax and of synthetic wax such as those marketed under the name of "MicroCare 325®" by MICRO POWDERS, the polyethylene microwaxes such as those marketed under the names of "MicroPoly 200®", "220®", "220L®", and "250S®", by MICRO POWDERS, and those marketed under the name of "CERAPURE H5-C" by SHAMROCK, or the polypropylene microwaxes such as those marketed under the name "MATTEWAX" by MICRO POWDERS; lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, the hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene/acrylonitrile chloride such as Expancel®
(Nobel Industrie) , of copolymers of acrylic acid, the silicone resin powders, in particular the silsesquioxane powders (silicone resin powders especially described in the patent EP 293795; Tospearls® of Toshiba, for example) , the elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate,
hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, the metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for 5 example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; barium sulphate and their mixtures .
According to a preferred mode of realization, the ]_Q composition according to the invention can comprise at least one acrylic polymer powder, in particular of methyl polymethacrylate .
The fillers can be present in the composition according 15 to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 0.8% to 10% by weight .
20
Apart from the pigments and the fillers, the particular phase of the composition according to the invention can comprise nacres.
25 "Nacres" must be understood as meaning iridescent particles, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized, insoluble in the medium of the composition.
3Q The nacres can be chosen from amongst the white nacre pigments such as bismuth oxychloride, mica covered with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, the coloured nacre pigments such as the titanium mica with iron oxides, the titanium mica with especially ferric blue or
chromium oxide, the titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforesaid type as well as nacre pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
Additional colorants
The composition according to the invention can comprise additional colorants chosen from amongst the hydrosoluble and liposoluble colorants.
The hydrosoluble colorants are, for example, beetroot juice, methylene blue and caramel.
Liposoluble colorants must be understood as meaning generally organic compounds soluble in the fatty substances such as the oils.
The liposoluble colorants are, for example, Sudan red, D&C Red no. 17, D&C Green no. 6, β-carotene, soya bean oil, Sudan brown, D&C Yellow no. 11, D&C Violet no. 2, D&C orange no. 5, quinoline yellow, annatto, bromoacids .
According to a preferred mode of realization, the composition according to the invention can comprise at least one pigment and/or at least one colorant.
Galenicals
The composition according to the invention can be present in different galenical forms, especially water- in-oil or multiple emulsions, and can be present in the form of gel, creams, suspensions, pressed powder, hot casts and sticks.
According to a preferred mode of realization, the composition according to the invention can be present in emulsion form, preferentially water-in-oil .
Customary additional cosmetic ingredients
The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one other customary cosmetic ingredient which can be especially chosen from amongst the antioxidants, the perfumes, the preservatives, the neutralizing agents, the surface active agents, the hydrophilic solar filters, the vitamins, the hydrating agents, the self-tanning compounds, the anti-wrinkle active agents, the emollients, the hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, the anti-free radical agents, the deodorant agents, the sequestrants, the film-forming agents, and their mixtures.
The invention is presented in more detail in the examples below.
EXAMPLES:
Example A:
A make-up foundation was prepared in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion having the following composition:
The constituents of Al are weighed into the main beaker: it is placed on a magnetic plate, with stirring
(bar magnet, 250 rev.min"1) and with heating (85°C). After dissolution of the butylparaben, A2 is added: the stirring is maintained until the obtainment of a homogeneous mixture.
The phase A3 is prepared separately by milling the pigments in a triple-roll mill. Then, with stirring on the Rayneri (deflocculent) , phase A3 is added, then phase A4, and finally phase A5
(300 rev.min"1) .
In order to prepare the aqueous phase B, the glycerol and the methylparaben are weighed, then the water heated to 95°C is added. The sodium citrate and finally the phenoxyethanol and the octane 1,2-diol are then incorporated between 40 and 45°C.
The emulsion is made at ambient temperature: the aqueous phase is poured into the fatty phase while increasing the speed of stirring of the Moritz to
2500 rev.min"1.
After 5 min, phase C is added. The stirring is maintained until total incorporation of C.
The product obtained is then placed with stirring on the Rayneri (deflocculent) at 800 rev.min"1 for 15 min.
Example B :
A make-up illuminator was prepared in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion having the following composition:
Procedure
The constituents of Al are weighed into the main beaker: it is placed on a magnetic plate, with stirring (bar magnet, 250 rev.min"1) and with heating (85°C). A2 is added: the stirring is maintained until the obtainment of a homogeneous mixture.
Then, with stirring on the Rayneri (deflocculent) , the phase A3 is added, then the phase A4, then the phase A5
In order to prepare the aqueous phase B, the glycerol and the methylparaben are weighed, then the water heated to 95°C is added. The sodium citrate and finally the phenoxyethanol and the octane 1,2-diol are then incorporated between 40 and 45°C.
The emulsion is made at ambient temperature: the aqueous phase is poured into the fatty phase while increasing the speed of stirring of the Moritz to
2500 rev.min"1.
After 5 min, the phase C is added. The stirring is maintained until total incorporation of C.
The product obtained is then placed with stirring on the Rayneri (deflocculent) at 800 rev.min"1.
Then the phase D is added and the stirring is maintained for 15 min.
Example C :
A "feeling well" composition is prepared in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion having the following composition :
Procedure
The constituents of Al are weighed into the main beaker: it is placed on a magnetic plate, with stirring
(magnetic bar, 250 rev.min"1) and with heating (85°C). A2 is added: the stirring is maintained until the obtainment of a homogeneous mixture.
Then, with stirring on the Rayneri (deflocculent) , the phase A3 is added, then the phase A4, then the phase A5
(300 rev.min"1) .
In order to prepare the aqueous phase B, the glycerol
and the methylparaben are weighed, then the water heated to 95°C is added. The colorants and finally the phenoxyethanol and the octane 1,2-diol are then incorporated between 40 and 45°C. The emulsion is made at ambient temperature: the aqueous phase is poured into the fatty phase while increasing the speed of stirring of the Moritz to 2500 rev.min"1.
After 5 min, the phase C is added. The stirring is maintained until total incorporation of C.
The product obtained is then placed with stirring on the Rayneri (deflocculent) at 800 rev.min"1. Then the phase D is added and the stirring is maintained for 15 min.
Claims
1. Cosmetic composition for making up or care of the keratinic substances comprising a continuous fatty phase, the said continuous fatty phase comprising at least:
- a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer,
- a lipophilic organic filter, and
- isononyl isononanoate .
2. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-emulsifying non-spherical silicone elastomer is chosen from amongst those obtained: - by crosslinking addition reaction of diorgano- siloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to the silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenically unsaturated groups linked to the silicon; - by crosslinking dehydrogenation condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to the silicon; - by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a hydrolysable organopolysilane;
- by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane;
- by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high- energy radiation.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and
(B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups linked to the silicon, especially in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone elastomer is obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy terminations, in the presence of platinum catalyst.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone elastomer is present in a content of active substance ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 8% by weight, and more preferentially ranging from 2% to 5% by weight .
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipophilic organic filter is chosen from amongst the p- aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); the salicylic derivatives, the dibenzoylmethane derivatives; the cinnamic derivatives, the β,β- diphenylacrylate derivatives; the benzophenone derivatives; the camphor derivatives; the triazine derivatives; the benzotriazole derivatives; the anthranilates; the imidazoline derivatives; the benzalmalonate derivatives; the benzimidazole derivatives; the benzoxazole derivatives; the filter polymers and filter silicones; the dimeric derivatives of α-alkylstyrene, the 4,4-diaryl- butadienes and their mixtures.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipophilic organic filter is chosen from amongst the cinnamic derivatives.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipophilic organic filter is chosen from amongst isopentyl 4- methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, methyl diisopropylcinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, diethanolamine 4-methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, cinoxate, and their mixture .
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipophilic organic filter is 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate corresponding to the formula:
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipophilic organic filter is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the isononyl isononanoate is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, and more preferentially from 2 to 20% by weight.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty phase comprises at least one additional, volatile or non-volatile oil.
13. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional volatile oil is a cyclic silicone oil.
14. Composition according to any one of Claims 12 and 13, characterized in that the additional volatile 5 oil is present in a content ranging from 1% to 80% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, especially ranging from 2% to 50% by weight, and better from 3 to 30% by weight. 0
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an aqueous phase comprising water in a content ranging from 1 to 60% by weight, especially from 5 to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight5 of the composition.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one pulverulent phase chosen from amongst0 the pigments, the fillers and/or the nacres and their mixtures.
17. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the pulverulent phase5 comprises at least one acrylic polymer powder, in particular of methyl polymethacrylate .
18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises atQ least one pigment coated with metallic soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, aluminium salt of the glutamate of hydrogenated tallow, the perfluoroalkyl phosphates, the perfluoroalkyl- silanes, the perfluoroalkylsilazanes, the hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, the polyorgano- siloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoro- polyether groups, and in particular aluminium glutamate salt.
5
19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one pigment and/or at least one colorant.
10 20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises a cosmetic ingredient chosen from amongst the antioxidants, the perfumes, the preservatives, the neutralizing agents, the
]_5 surface active agents, the hydrophilic solar filters, the vitamins, the hydrating agents, the self-tanning compounds, the anti-wrinkle active agents, the emollients, the hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, the anti-free radical
20 agents, the sequestrants, the deodorant agents, the film-forming agents, and their mixtures.
21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is present in
25 anhydrous form or in emulsion, preferentially water-in-oil, form.
22. Non-therapeutic process of making up or of care of the keratinic substances comprising the
30 application to the said keratinic substances of a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 21.
23. Use of a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 21, in order to obtain a deposit on the keratinic substances effectively protecting from the rays of the sun, resistant to water and not providing a greasy effect.
24. Use of isononyl isononanoate in order to improve the compatibility of the elastomer and of the filter in the fatty phase of a composition.
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR0757679 | 2007-09-19 | ||
FR0757679A FR2920985B1 (en) | 2007-09-19 | 2007-09-19 | COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CONTINUOUS FATTY PHASE AND A PARTICULAR ESTER |
US96038207P | 2007-09-27 | 2007-09-27 | |
US60/960,382 | 2007-09-27 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
WO2009037303A1 true WO2009037303A1 (en) | 2009-03-26 |
Family
ID=39326971
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/EP2008/062426 WO2009037303A1 (en) | 2007-09-19 | 2008-09-18 | Composition comprising a continuous fatty phase and a specific ester |
Country Status (2)
Country | Link |
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FR (1) | FR2920985B1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2009037303A1 (en) |
Families Citing this family (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2968931B1 (en) * | 2010-12-20 | 2013-04-26 | Oreal | COMPOSITION COMPRISING DIRECT SYNTHETIC COLOR, INSOLUBLE SILICATE, AROMATIC COMPOUND, AND HYDROXYL ALIPHATIC SOLVENT |
FR2968971B1 (en) * | 2010-12-20 | 2013-04-26 | Oreal | COMPOSITION COMPRISING A NATURAL COLOR, AN INSOLUBLE SILICATE, AN AROMATIC COMPOUND AND A HYDROXYL ALIPHATIC SOLVENT |
Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2759583A1 (en) * | 1997-02-17 | 1998-08-21 | Oreal | ANTISOLAR COMPOSITION CONTAINING A SOLID ELASTOMERIC ORGANOPOLYSILOXANE |
US20040247549A1 (en) * | 2002-06-12 | 2004-12-09 | L'oreal S.A. | Cosmetic emulsions containing at least one hetero polymer and at least one sunscreen and methods of using the same |
EP1579845A2 (en) * | 2004-03-22 | 2005-09-28 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising a polyglycerolated silicone elastomer |
US20050281763A1 (en) * | 2004-06-17 | 2005-12-22 | Yasuko Suginaka | Personal care compositions comprising sparingly soluble solid oily components and solvents thereof |
EP1709954A1 (en) * | 2005-04-05 | 2006-10-11 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Translucent, sunscreening cosmetic foundation composition |
-
2007
- 2007-09-19 FR FR0757679A patent/FR2920985B1/en active Active
-
2008
- 2008-09-18 WO PCT/EP2008/062426 patent/WO2009037303A1/en active Application Filing
Patent Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2759583A1 (en) * | 1997-02-17 | 1998-08-21 | Oreal | ANTISOLAR COMPOSITION CONTAINING A SOLID ELASTOMERIC ORGANOPOLYSILOXANE |
US20040247549A1 (en) * | 2002-06-12 | 2004-12-09 | L'oreal S.A. | Cosmetic emulsions containing at least one hetero polymer and at least one sunscreen and methods of using the same |
EP1579845A2 (en) * | 2004-03-22 | 2005-09-28 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising a polyglycerolated silicone elastomer |
US20050281763A1 (en) * | 2004-06-17 | 2005-12-22 | Yasuko Suginaka | Personal care compositions comprising sparingly soluble solid oily components and solvents thereof |
EP1709954A1 (en) * | 2005-04-05 | 2006-10-11 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Translucent, sunscreening cosmetic foundation composition |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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FR2920985B1 (en) | 2010-03-26 |
FR2920985A1 (en) | 2009-03-20 |
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