WO2017036135A1

WO2017036135A1 - A hair styling composition for hair care containing lotus flower oil and use thereof

Info

Publication number: WO2017036135A1
Application number: PCT/CN2016/077964
Authority: WO
Inventors: Wentao Li; Xiaoping Liu; Tan WANG; Zhaoxia Bao; Xiaopeng Hong
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2015-09-01
Filing date: 2016-03-31
Publication date: 2017-03-09
Also published as: CN108697628A; CN109069403A; WO2017035766A1; WO2017036134A1; WO2017036631A1; CN107921295A

Abstract

A hair styling composition for hair care containing lotus flower oil and use thereof. The composition comprising a fixing and/or film-forming polymer, a fatty alcohol, and lotus flower oil.

Description

A Hair Styling Composition for Hair Care Containing Lotus Flower Oil and Use Thereof

Technical field

The invention relates to a cosmetic preparation， in particular a hair styling composition， comprising at least one fixing and/or film-forming polymer， fatty alcohols， and lotus flower oil. The cosmetic preparation leads to a very satisfying styling of the hair together with an improvement of the physical-optical properties of the hair， without leaving the hair with an oily or coated appearance. The invention also relates to use of the cosmetic preparation.

Background Art

The entire human body， with the exception of the lips， the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet， is covered with hair， albeit for a large part barely visible. Because of the many nerve endings at the hair root， hair reacts sensitively to external influences such as wind or touch and is therefore a part of the sense of touch that should not be underestimated. However， nowadays， the most important function of human head hair lies in helping to create the appearance of the person in a characteristic manner. Similarly to the skin， it fulfills a social function because it contributes considerably to interpersonal relations and to the self-esteem of an individual via its outward appearance.

Hair is consisting of hair shaft and hair root. Hair shaft protrudes freely from the skin， and is a keratinized (dead) section of the hair. Hair shaft represents the actual visible part of the hair， which is continually renewed. Hair root which sticks in the skin is the living part of the hair. Hair shaft consists of three layers： the central part， which is called hair marrow (medulla) ， is regressed in humans， often completely missing； then there is the marrow， also called cortex； and cuticle as the outermost layer， comprising up to ten horny layers.

Human hair in its freshly grown condition is virtually impossible to improve. The part of the hair in the vicinity of the scalp accordingly has a virtually closed horny layer. In particular， the horny layer， being the external sheath of the hair， and also the inner region below the cuticle are subjected to particular stress by environmental influences.

Sunlight， mechanical stress by intensive combing or brushing， hair treatments， such as hair colorations， bleaching and permanent waving， and also hair shaping using a hair dryer or other tools can cause damage to hair.

One aim of hair care is to help to retain the natural state of freshly grown hair over a period as long as possible and， in the case of loss of the natural state， to restore it. Generally， natural healthy hair has a silky shine look， low porosity and a pleasant， smooth feel.

One aim of hair styling is to provide strong hold for the styled hair together with a natural appearance. The hair fixing agents should be easily brushed and/or washed out， leaving the hair in a non-dry， non-damaged and pleasant condition.

Lotus is a perennial aquatic plant with pink flowers. Lotus is utilized as a dietary staple and also for a variety of medical purposes in Eastern Asia， particularly in China. Lotus seed is utilized in the management of a variety of conditions， including tissue inflammation， poisoning， cancer， and leprosy. A pale yellow coloured liquid， extracted from Lotus plants， has been considered sacred for centuries. It has been used as effective remedy for skin conditions and stress related ailments such as headache， nausea， morning sickness， vomiting etc.

Lotus flower comprises linoleic acid， protein， phosphorus， iron and vitamins B and C. Practitioners of Ayurveda medicine often use lotus flowers on the face because the flower has soothing and cooling properties. Lotus (Nelumbonuficera) flower essential oil increases melanogenesis in normal human melanocytes as described in detail in Exp. Mol. Med. 2009， July 31. 41 (7) ， 517-524.

Lotus flowers belong to the botanical family of Nelumbonaceae. This is a family different from the botanical family of Nymphaeaceae， the family of water lilies.

The use of a lotus extract in hairspray compositions is disclosed in CN 101647766 A. The lotus extract is obtained by an extraction with glycerin， thus it is an aqueous lotus extract.

Furthermore， the prior art hair care compositions， especially styling compositions also suffer from the following disadvantages： Frequent perming and dying damages the hair. Curl revive creams are frequently used to repair the damaged hair and to hold the curl shape. These revive creams contain polymers and/or silicones， both of which tend to deposit on the hair. These deposits are hardly to remove. The hair looks greasy and becomes more and more dry.

The present invention is made to overcome the above mentioned disadvantages of the prior art styling compositions. Aim of the present invention is to provide styling compositions containing a natural oil， such as lotus flower oil， for treatment of hair without leaving an oily film on the hair， but at the same time providing fresh looking， moisturized and shiny hair. The compositions of the present invention are especially suitable to keep the delicate balance between hair looking moisturized but not greasy together with a good hold of the curl shape， thereby leaving the curled hair elastic.

Preferably， the styling composition of the present invention should provide a good and elastic hold of the styled hair together with a care of the hair by natural oils， especially lotus oil.

Summary of the invention

Inventors of the present invention found out that a styling composition containing lotus flower oil in a concentration of 0.01 to 10.0％by weight is able to improve the physical-optical properties of hair.

In a first aspect， the present invention provides a composition for styling hair， comprising

- at least one fixing and/or film-forming polymer，

- at least one fatty alcohol， and

- Lotus flower oil in an amount of 0.01 to 10.0 ％by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a further aspect， the composition comprises preferably 0.05 to 7.5 ％by weight， more preferably 0.1 to 6.0 ％by weight of lotus flower oil.

Furthermore， the composition can optionally comprise the auxiliary components as listed in the part of “detailed description of the invention” ， such as silicones， emulsifiers， cationic surfactants， preservatives and antioxidants.

In addition to the above components and the auxiliary components， the composition comprises balance amount of water， so that all the components amount to 100％by weight.

In another aspect， the present invention refers to use of the composition of the present invention in styling and caring hair， especially to improve the look of the hair referring to freshness， shine and moisture. In another aspect the use of the compositions of the present invention are providing a strong hold of the styled hair without generating it stiff. The styled hair remains elastic.

By using the composition of the present invention， the disadvantages of the prior art styling compositions are overcome. The styling composition of the present invention leads to significantly improved qualities of the hair referring to shine， moisture and non-greasiness together with good hold of the styled hair， shown by the parameters of hardness and curl retention， without leaving the hair stiff， shown by the parameter of elasticity.

Detailed description of the invention

The lotus flower oil can be obtained from lotus flowers through CO₂ supercritical extraction process using GTCC as the solvent， aiming at getting an oil soluble substance from the lotus flower. For example， such lotus flower oil is commercially available from the Morechem Company， Korea.

The use of lotus flower oil and/or an oily extract of lotus flower is essential for the present invention.

According to the invention at least one fixing polymer is applied to the hair and builds up very small bridges between single hairs or hair tresses thereby fixing the hair. Fixing polymers are known in prior art. They can be classified as anionic， nonionic and cationic polymers. According to the invention it is preferred to use cationic polymers， especially homopolymers consisting essentially of the monomers characterized by the following formula， where R₁ is hydrogen atom or a CH₃ substituent， R₂， R₃， R₄ are identical or different substituents representing alkyl substituents with 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl substituent. A represents a straight or branched alkyl chain of 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxylated alkyl chain of 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Preferably Polyquaternium-37 is used， which can be purchased as Salcare 96 from BASF.

As well it is preferred to use nonionic fixing polymers. Nonionic fixing polymers can be homopolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone， N-Vinylformamids or N-vinylcarprolactam. Suitable are also copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylacetate or vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat， terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidon， vinylacetate and propionate or vinylcaprolactam， vinylpyrrolidon and dimethylaminomethacrylat. Also specificpolysiloxanes can be used as nonionic fixing polymers. According to the present invention it is preferred to use homoplymers of vinylpyrrolidone which can be purchasedas Luviskol K 90 Powder from BASF.

A combination of cationic and nonionic fixing polymers is even more preferred， especially the combination of Polyquaternium-37 and homopolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone.

The at least one fixing polymer is used preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 7.5 ％by weight， more preferably 0.5 to 5.0 ％by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the fixing polymers. The content is referring to the total content of fixing polymers in the respective composition.

Another class of molecules which have film-forming and viscosity increasing qualities are polyolefins. These molecules have a relatively high molecular weight and are chemically inert. They can be used in the hair styling compositions of the present invention. A preferred polyolefin is hydrogenated polydecene which can be purchased as SPECTRASYN 4 from Exxonmobil Oil Corporation.

The at least one polyolefine is used in an amount of 0.1 to 7.5 ％by weight， more preferably 0.5 to 5.0 ％by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the polyolefines.

According to the invention fatty alcohols are used. Fatty alcohols are straight， long-chained with one hydroxyl group at the first carbon atom. The alkyl residue has 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can have one or multiple double bonds. It is preferred that the alkyl residues have 14 to 20 carbon atoms. More preferred is the use of cetyl alcohol and/or stearyl alcohol.

The at least one fatty alcohol is used preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 5.0 ％by weight， more preferably 0.1 to 2.0 ％by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to the invention， the cationic surfactants are preferably those which have conditioning qualities. More preferably， the cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium salts. It is still more preferred that the quaternary ammonium salts contain nitrogen atoms having three methyl groups as substituents whereas the fourth substituent is a long-chained alkyl residue which can be straight， branched， substituted or unsubstituted. It is preferred that the alkyl residue is a straight， unsubstituted one containing 12 to 28 carbon atoms. It is even more preferred when the alkyl residue contains 18 to 24 carbon atoms. The corresponding anion can be selected from the group chloride， bromide and methosulfate. It is most preferred to use behentrimonium methosulfate， which can be purchased as VARISOFT BTMS from EVONIK.

The at least one cationic surfactant is used preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 5.0 ％by weight， more preferably 0.1 to 1.0 ％by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the cationic surfactants.

According to the invention， additional conditioning components can be optionally comprised in the composition.

Silicones， especially dimethicones are a preferable class of hair care components. Hair styling compositions according to the present invention can contain dimethicones.

Silicones are synthetic polymers containing silicium atoms connected via oxygen atoms. The functional unit consisting of silicium atom and oxygen atom is called siloxane. In case of dimethicones many siloxane units are arranged in a linear way， each silicium atom having two methyl residues and the silicium atoms at the ends having three methyl residues. Dimethicones are varying in length. The differing length accounts for differing viscosity values. Therefore dimethicones can be characterized by these values. Dimethicones， or silicone fluids， as they are also called， can be purchased having varying values of viscosity. Commercial products have a viscosity values between 1 centistokes (cst) and 1,000,000 cst. The lower viscosity products are miscible for example with mineral oil and isopropyl myristate and are useful for aerosol applications. The products having 100 -500 cst are the traditional silicones used as additives in skin care formulations and products characterized by higher viscosities are used in barrier products or in hair products.

According to the invention， the silicones are preferably dimethicones available as Baysilone M Dimethicone (100 -2,000,000 cst， ) or CB-50M (～500,000 cst at 25℃) ， both supplied by Momentive； further low viscosity silicones and high viscosity silicones are feasible； preferred are Dimethyl Silicone Fluids supplied by Dow Corning like PMX-200 Silicone Fluid (～350 -500,000 cst) or

PMX-6634 Fluid (250,000 -～650,000 cst) or SF 100N-350 cst (～300 -400 cst) supplied by KCC Co.， Ltd.

The dimethicones are used preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 7.0 ％by weight， more preferably 0.75％to 5.0 ％by weight， even more preferably 1.0 to 4.0 ％by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the dimethicones. The given contents are referring to the total content of silicones.

According to the present invention， the compositions can comprise preservatives， which are allowed and suitable for cosmetic preparations. However， it is preferred to use one of the following components， DMDM Hydantoin， Methylparaben， Ethylparaben， and Phenoxyethanol， or mixtures thereof. Other preservatives can also be used， for example Benzyl Alcohol， Methylisothiazolinone and Methylchloroisothiazolinone. These preservatives can be used alone or in combination or in combination with the above mentioned preservatives.

The preferred preservatives can be used alone or in combination. The total amount of preservative， referring as well to one single preservative as to a combination of preservatives， is from 0.01 to 2.0 ％by weight， preferably 0.05 to 1.0 ％by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the preservatives.

According to the present invention the hair styling composition can contain at least one emulsifier. In general， emulsifiers are substances which are stabilizing emulsions. They can be classified ionic and non-ionic emulsifiers the last ones being preferred. According to the present invention especially preferred are sorbitans which are esterified with fatty acids and ethoxylated. Polysorbate 60 is an example of this class of emulsifiers. TWEEN 60-LQ- (SG) is an example of this class of emulsifiers. It can be purchased from Croda Chemical Co.， Ltd.

The at least one nonionic emulsifier is used in an amount of 0.1 to 7.5 ％by weight， more preferably 0.5 to 3.0 ％by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the nonionic emulsifiers.

According to the present invention antioxidants can be used in the hair styling compositions. In general antioxidants are molecules which prevent other molecules from being oxidized. Oxidation processes can produce free radicals which are damaging or destroying other molecules. When these other molecules are part of living cells these cells can be damaged. There are several molecules which are able to function as radical scavenger. These molecules are also called antioxidants. The antioxidants can be of natural origin as for example vitamin C， gluthathione， lipoic acid， carotenes， vitamin E and coenzyme Q. But there are also synthetic antioxidants as butylhydroanisol (BHA) ， butylhydroxytoluol (BHT) and pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl-hydroxyhydrocinnamate. According to the invention it is preferred to use antioxidants of synthetic origin.

The at least one antioxidant is used in an amount of 0.001 to 0.1％by weight， preferably 0.01 to 0.07 ％by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the antioxidants.

Preparation method

The composition of the present invention can be prepared by any technique known or effective to prepare a hair styling composition. The hair styling compositions can be prepared as pump creams or pump sprays. The process to prepare the composition of the present invention comprises conventional formulating and mixing techniques.

Specifically， compositions of the present invention and a comparative composition are produced with the following procedure：

Heat oil phase (Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate， Polysorbate 60， Cetyl Alcohol， Behentrimonium Methosulfate and Cetearyl Alcohol， Dimethicone， Hydrogenated Polydecene) to 80℃，

heat water phase (Disodium EDTA， water， Propylene Glycol) to 75-80℃，

combine both phases whilst stirring， then homogenize the batch until the appearance is homogeneous，

add Polyquaternium-37 and PPG-1 Trideceth-6 and PPG-1 Trideceth-6 and Sorbitan Oleate and water， stir continuously and homogenize，

Cool down to 45℃，

add polymer， preservatives， fragrance， Lotus Flower Oil and other additives，

stir continuously and cool to room temperature.

Test method

In order to show that the addition of lotus flower oil into the inventive compositions has an effect and contributes to the solution of the above-mentioned problem， a half side test is conducted. The test is carried out through the following procedure：

Compositions comprising lotus flower oil at different concentrations ranging from 0.5 to 4.0 ％by weight (Examples 1-5) are prepared as samples of the present invention， and as well as a comparative sample (Comparative Example) ， which does not comprise any lotus flower oil at all. Respective test samples are filled in syringes， not revealing any details of the composition therein. Depending on the length of the hair， the sample use amount will be 3-5 ml.

Wash the subject’s hair with base blank shampoo. Towel the hair to remove the spare water and separate subject’s hair from the middle of head.

Put each sample in one hand， evaluate consistency of each sample. Spread each sample on hair， evaluate the following attributes in wet phase： easy to use， appearance， spreadability， non-sticky， non-greasy， moisture and shine.

Use a hair dryer to dry gently subject’s from hair end to root until two half sides are in the same state. The two sides of the head are kept separated by using a wind shield. Evaluate the following attributes in dry hair directly： stiffness， elastic， curl retention， volume， no frizz， shine， dusty/flake (light and soft) .

Subject’s hair is evaluated again after four hours in normal condition. Following attributes are evaluated in dry hair： stiffness， elastic， curl retention， volume， no frizz， shine und dusty/flake (light and soft) .

Finally give general comment to both sides and re-style the hair in a proper way.

The evaluation is done based on a 10-point system， “1 point” corresponds to “bad” ， and “10 points” corresponds to “good” . A value of 5 points is a medium value， corresponding to sufficient qualities. The values of 9 to 6 points give descending values， making it possible to differentiate stepwise between good and sufficient. Correspondingly， the values of 4 to 2 points give descending values， making it possible to differentiate stepwise between sufficient and bad.

The test and evaluation results are shown in Table 2， wherein the average score based on the 8 evaluation scores is recorded for each sample.

Table 3： Trade name and INCI of the compounds：

It can be clearly seen from table 2 that the addition of lotus flower oil to the composition influences the condition of the hair. It is obvious that the effect is depending on the concentration of lotus flower oil in the respective composition.

In detail， an amount of 2.0 ％by weight of lotus flower oil in the respective composition leads to the best results regarding all parameters evaluated.

On one hand parameters referring to styling qualities， such as hardness， elasticity and curl retention are evaluated best for example 3， containing 2 ％by weight of lotus flower oil. Increasing the amount of lotus flower oil in the respective compositions (example 4 and 5) leads to evaluations that are becoming worse. Also， amounts of lotus flower oil in the range of 0.5 to 1％by weight in the respective compositions do not lead to evaluations that are as good as seen with the composition according to example 3. With regard to styling qualities there is an optimal amount of lotus flower oil of around 2 ％by weight in the composition.

On the other hand parameters referring to moisture， non-greasiness and shine of hair， it is obvious that there is an optimal amount of lotus flower oil around the value of 2 ％by weight where the hair has enough moisture but is not greasy together with a shiny appearance.

It can be seen that lotus flower is used best in styling composition in an amount around 2 ％by weight leading to fine styled hair which feels moisturized， but not greasy.

The above examples of the present invention are provided only for illustrative purposes， and are not intended to limit the invention in any aspect. One skilled in the art should know that， changes and modifications may be carried out to technical solutions of the present invention within the spirit and scope of the present invention.

Claims

A composition for styling hair， comprising：

- at least one fixing and/or film-forming polymer，

- at least one fatty alcohol， and

- lotus flower oil in an amount of 0.01 to 10.0 ％ by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to claim 1， characterized in that lotus flower oil is contained in an amount of 0.05 to 7.5 ％ by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to claim 2， characterized in that lotus flower oil is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 6.0 ％ by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to claim 1， characterized in that the composition further comprises auxiliary components selected from silicones， emulsifiers， cationic surfactants， preservatives and/or antioxidants， and the composition comprises balance amount of water， so that all the components amount to 100％ by weight.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 4， characterized in that the at least one fixing polymer is present in an amount 0.1 to 7.5％ by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to claim 5， characterized in that the at least one fixing polymer is present in an amount 0.5 to 5.0％ by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 4， characterized in that the at least one fixing polymer is a nonionic fixing polymer.
The composition according to claim 7， characterized in that the at least one fixing polymer is a homopolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 4， characterized in that the at least one fixing polymer is a cationic fixing polymer.
The composition according to claim 9， characterized in that the at least one fixing polymer is polyquaternium-37.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 4， characterized in that the at least one fixing polymer is a combination of at least one cationic polymer and at least one nonionic polymer.
The composition according to claim 11， characterized in that the at least one fixing polymer is a combination of polyquaternium-37 and a homopolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 4， characterized in that the at least one film-forming polymer is a polyolefin.
The composition according to claim 13， characterized in that the at least one film-forming polymer is a hydrogenated polydecene.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 4， characterized in that the at least one film-forming polymer is present in an amount of 0.1 to 7.5 ％ by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to claim 15， characterized in that the at least one film-forming polymer is present in an amount of 0.5 to 5.0 ％ by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 4， characterized in that the at least one fatty alcohol is present in an amount of 0.01 to 5％ by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to claim 17， characterized in that the at least one fatty alcohol is present in an amount of 0.1 to 2.0 ％ by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 4， characterized in that the alkyl residue of the at least one fatty alcohol contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
The composition according to claim 19， characterized in that the alkyl residue of the at least one fatty alcohol contains 14 to 20 carbon atoms.
The composition according to any of claims 1 to 4， characterized in that the composition further comprises at least one cationic surfactant in an amount of 0.01 to 5.0 ％ by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to claim 21， characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant is present in an amount of 0.1 to 1.0 ％ by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to claim 21 or 22， characterized in that the cationic surfactant is quaternary ammonium salt.
The composition according to claim 23， characterized in that the nitrogen atom of the quaternary ammonium salt is connected with three methyl substituents and one alkyl substituent containing 12 to 28 carbon atoms.
The composition according to claim 24， characterized in that the alkyl substituent contains 18 to 24 carbon atoms.
The composition according to claim 4， characterized in that the silicone is at least one dimethicone.
The composition according to claim 26， characterized in that the at least one dimethiconeis present in an amount of 0.5 to 7.0 ％ by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to claim 27， characterized in that the at least one dimethicone is present in an amount of 0.75％ to 5.0 ％ by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to claim 28， characterized in that the at least one dimethicone is present in an amount of 1.0 to 4.0 ％ by weight， relative to the total weight of the composition.
Use of the composition according to any of claims 1 to 29 to improve the look of the hair referring to freshness， shine and moisture.
Use of the composition according to any of claims 1 to 29 to provide a strong hold of the styled hair without generating stiff hair.