WO2012104160A2 - Émulsion huile dans l'eau contenant des particules protectrices en composite, des particules non protectrices et non sphériques, et au moins une huile polaire - Google Patents

Émulsion huile dans l'eau contenant des particules protectrices en composite, des particules non protectrices et non sphériques, et au moins une huile polaire Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012104160A2
WO2012104160A2 PCT/EP2012/050955 EP2012050955W WO2012104160A2 WO 2012104160 A2 WO2012104160 A2 WO 2012104160A2 EP 2012050955 W EP2012050955 W EP 2012050955W WO 2012104160 A2 WO2012104160 A2 WO 2012104160A2
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inorganic
particles
oil
matrix
composition according
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PCT/EP2012/050955
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English (en)
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WO2012104160A3 (fr
Inventor
Florence L'alloret
Maud WILLIEN
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2012104160A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012104160A3/fr

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0245Specific shapes or structures not provided for by any of the groups of A61K8/0241
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/65Characterized by the composition of the particulate/core
    • A61K2800/651The particulate/core comprising inorganic material

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) an anhydrous phase comprising at least one polar oil;
  • This composition is for topical use and is more particularly intended for the photoprotection of the skin and/or hair against ultraviolet (UV) radiation.
  • UV ultraviolet
  • UV-A rays with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm, which cause tanning of the skin, are liable to induce adverse changes therein, in particular in the case of sensitive skin or skin that is continually exposed to solar radiation. UV-A rays cause in particular a loss of elasticity of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature ageing of the skin.
  • antisun compositions comprising organic screening agents that are active in the UV-A range and in the UV-B range are generally used.
  • cosmetic products comprising one or more inorganic and/or organic UV- screening agents.
  • the cosmetic products intended to be applied to the skin often comprise fine Ti0 2 particles to protect the skin from UV rays.
  • These fine metal oxide particles generally have a mean elementary particle size of less than or equal to 100 nm, preferably between 0.005 and 0.1 ⁇ , preferably between 0.01 and 0.1 ⁇ , and preferentially between 0.015 and 0.05 ⁇ .
  • Patent applications FR 2882371 , WO 2006/083326 and WO 98/37964 describe various processes for manufacturing composite particles formed from a material comprising nanoparticles of metal oxides, such as titanium dioxide.
  • compositions comprising spherical composites based on a metal oxide and on a hydrophobic polymer.
  • EP 1 388 550 which targets the use of composite particles comprising a core formed of a metal oxide coated with a silicone or fluoro compound and the use thereof as a photoprotective cosmetic composition
  • application WO 98/22539 which describes a sunscreen containing a particle of silicon and/or of another solid compound in which the silicon is in stoichiometric excess, the said particle having a mean diameter of less than 0.12 ⁇ and being covered with a layer of oxide having a thickness ranging from 0.001 to 0.3 ⁇ .
  • Antisun formulations that may contain as screening system spherical particles of composite material with a mean size of between 2 and 7 ⁇ , Ti0 2 encapsulated in spherical silica particles are known, such as those sold under the name Sunsil T50 by Sunjin Chemical. These screening materials have the drawback of leading to formulations whose stability and cosmetic qualities, such as spreadability, are still insufficient.
  • Patent application US 2008/188 574 discloses antisun oil/water emulsions comprising organic screening agents, spherical particles of composite material of Ti0 2 encapsulated in spherical silica particles, such as those sold under the name Sunsil TIN 40 by Sunjin Chemical combined with a clay of the Veegum type. These compositions are not entirely satisfactory from the point of view of stability or cosmetic qualities.
  • Patent application JP 2007-302647 and the following documentation disclose water-in-oil emulsions comprising as screening agent particles of composite material based on Ti0 2 combined with a clay such as
  • an oil-in-water emulsion containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) an anhydrous phase comprising at least one polar oil;
  • a first subject of the present invention concerns a composition in the form of an oil-in- water emulsion containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
  • an anhydrous phase comprising at least one polar oil
  • the composition according to the present invention is effective in photoprotection.
  • the composition is stable and easy to spread. It has a homogeneous appearance, in particular on the microscopic scale and it does not generate a white deposit when it is applied to the skin.
  • compositions according to the present invention are photoprotective compositions intended to screen UV radiation; these compositions are also known as anti-sun compositions or sun protection compositions.
  • anhydrous medium means any support comprising less than 3% by weight of water, or less than 1 % by weight of water, or more particularly less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is free of water.
  • cosmetically acceptable means compatible with the skin and/or its integuments or mucous membranes, having a pleasant colour, odour and feel and not causing any unacceptable discomfort (stinging, tautness or redness) liable to discourage the consumer from using this composition.
  • oil-in-water emulsion means any macroscopically homogeneous composition comprising a continuous aqueous phase and an oily phase dispersed in the said aqueous phase in the form of droplets.
  • mean size of the particles is understood to mean the parameter D[4,3] measured using a "Mastersizer 2000" particle size analyser (Malvern). The light intensity scattered by the particles as a function of the angle at which they are lit is converted to size distribution according to Mie theory. The parameter D[4,3] is measured; this is the mean diameter of the sphere having the same volume as the particle. For a spherical particle, reference will often be made to the "mean diameter".
  • mean elementary size means the size of non-aggregated particles.
  • particle that does not screen out UV radiation means any particle which, after being dispersed in an aqueous phase or an oil at a concentration equal to 1 %, leads to a level of transmission of UV radiation (290/400 nm) of greater than 90%.
  • the spherical and non-spherical particles used according to the present invention comprise a matrix and an inorganic UV-screening agent.
  • the matrix comprises one or more organic and/or inorganic materials.
  • the inorganic UV-screening agent is generally chosen from metal oxides, preferably titanium, zinc or iron oxides or mixtures thereof and more particularly from titanium oxide and zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferably, the inorganic UV-screening agent is Ti0 2 .
  • metal oxides may be in the form of particles with a mean size generally of less than 200 nm.
  • the metal oxide particles used have a mean elementary size of less than or equal to 0.1 ⁇ .
  • metal oxides may also be in the form of layers, preferably multilayers with a mean thickness generally of less than 0.2 ⁇ .
  • the composite particles contain a matrix comprising an organic and/or inorganic material, in which matrix particles of inorganic UV-screening agent are included.
  • the matrix has inclusions and particles of inorganic UV-screening agent are placed in the inclusions of the matrix.
  • the composite particles contain a matrix made of an organic and/or inorganic material, which matrix is covered with at least one layer of inorganic UV-screening agent which may be connected to the matrix by means of a binder.
  • the composite particles contain an inorganic UV-screening agent covered with at least one layer of an organic and/or inorganic material.
  • the matrix may also be formed from one or more organic or inorganic materials. It may then be a continuous phase of materials such as an alloy, i.e. a continuous phase in which the materials can no longer be dissociated, or a discontinuous phase of materials, for example constituted of an organic or inorganic material covered with a layer of another different organic or inorganic material.
  • the mass content of metal oxide in the particles of the invention is between 1 % and 70%, preferably between 2% and 65% and better still between 3% and 60%.
  • the composite particles may furthermore be covered with an additional coating, in particular chosen from biodegradable or biocompatible materials, lipid materials, for instance surfactants or emulsifiers, polymers, and oxides.
  • an additional coating in particular chosen from biodegradable or biocompatible materials, lipid materials, for instance surfactants or emulsifiers, polymers, and oxides.
  • the screening composite particles may be chosen from those of spherical shape, those of non-spherical shape, or mixtures thereof.
  • spherical is understood to mean that the particle has a sphericity index, i.e. the ratio between its largest diameter and its smallest diameter, of less than 1.2.
  • non-spherical refers to particles in three dimensions (length, width and thickness or height) for which the ratio of the longest dimension to the shortest dimension is greater than 1.2.
  • the dimensions of the particles of the invention are evaluated by scanning electron microscopy and image analysis. They comprise particles of parallelepipedal shape (rectangular or square surface), discoid shape (circular surface) or ellipsoid shape (oval surface), characterized by three dimensions: a length, a width and a height. When the shape is circular, the length and the width are identical and correspond to the diameter of a disc, whereas the height corresponds to the thickness of the disc.
  • the length and the width correspond, respectively, to the large axis and the small axis of an ellipse and the height corresponds to the thickness of the elliptic disc formed by the platelet.
  • the length and the width may be of identical or different dimensions: when they are of the same dimension, the shape of the surface of the parallelepiped is a square; in the contrary case, the shape is rectangular.
  • the height it corresponds to the thickness of the parallelepiped.
  • the content of composite particles of the composition according to the invention ranges from 1 % to 70%, preferably from 1.5% to 45%, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the inorganic materials that may be used in the matrix of the spherical composite particles according to the present invention may be chosen from the group formed by glass, silica and aluminium oxide, and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic materials that may be used to form the matrix are chosen from the group formed by poly(meth)acrylates, polyamides, silicones, polyurethanes, polyethylenes, poly- propylenes, polystyrenes, polycaprolactams, polysaccharides, polypeptides, polyvinyl derivatives, waxes, polyesters and polyethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the matrix of the spherical composite particle contains a material or mixture of materials chosen from:
  • the composite particles in spherical form are characterized by a mean diameter between 0.1 ⁇ and 30 ⁇ , preferably between 0.2 ⁇ and 20 ⁇ and more preferably between 0.3 ⁇ and 10 ⁇ , advantageously between 0.5 ⁇ and 10 ⁇ .
  • the spherical composite particles contain a matrix comprising an organic and/or inorganic material, in which matrix particles of inorganic UV-screening agent are included.
  • the particles of inorganic UV-screening agent are characterized by a mean elementary size generally of less than 200 nm.
  • the metal oxide particles used have a mean elementary size of less than or equal to 0.1 ⁇ .
  • composite particles corresponding to this variant mention may be made of the products Sunsil TIN 50 and Sunsil TIN 40 sold by the company Sunjin Chemical. These spherical composite particles with a mean size of between 2 and 7 ⁇ are formed from Ti0 2 encapsulated in a silica matrix.
  • the spherical composite particles contain a matrix made of an organic and/or inorganic material, covered with at least one layer of inorganic UV- screening agent connected to the matrix by means of a binder.
  • the mean thickness of the layer of inorganic UV- screening agent is advantageously between 0.001 and 0.2 ⁇ and preferably between 0.01 and 0.1 ⁇ ⁇ .
  • the spherical composite particles used according to the invention have a size of between 0.1 and 30 ⁇ , preferably between 0.3 and 20 ⁇ and even more preferentially between 0.5 and 10 ⁇ .
  • composite particles that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of spherical composite particles containing Ti0 2 and Si0 2 , having the trade name STM ACS-0050510, supplied by the company JGC Catalysts and Chemical.
  • the spherical composite particles contain an inorganic UV- screening agent covered with at least one layer of an organic and/or inorganic material.
  • the particles of inorganic UV-screening agent are characterized by a mean elementary size generally of between 0.001 and 0.2 ⁇ .
  • the metal oxide particles used have a mean elementary size of between 0.01 and 0.1 ⁇ ⁇ .
  • the spherical composite particles used according to the invention have a size of between 0.1 and 30 ⁇ , preferably between 0.3 and 20 ⁇ and even more preferentially between 0.5 and 10 ⁇ .
  • the organic materials that may be used to form the matrix of the non-spherical screening particles are chosen from the group formed by polyamides, silicones, polysaccharides, polyvinyl derivatives, waxes and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • organic materials that may be used, mention is preferably made of:
  • the inorganic materials that may be used in the matrix of the non-spherical composite particles are chosen from the group formed by mica, synthetic mica, talc, silica, aluminium oxide, boron nitride, kaolin, hydrotalcite, mineral clays and synthetic clays, and mixtures thereof.
  • these inorganic materials are chosen from:
  • the non-spherical composite particles of the invention are characterized by three dimensions, namely:
  • the smallest is greater than 0.1 ⁇ , preferably greater than 0.3 ⁇ and better still greater than 0.5 ⁇ ,
  • the largest is less than 30 ⁇ , preferably 20 ⁇ and better still 10 ⁇ .
  • the ratio of the largest to the smallest dimension is greater than 1.2.
  • the dimensions of the particles of the invention are evaluated by scanning electron microscopy and image analysis.
  • non-spherical screening composite particles that may be used according to the invention will preferably be platelet-shaped.
  • platelet-shaped means parallelepipedal-shaped.
  • They may be smooth, rough or porous.
  • the platelet-shaped composite particles preferably have a mean thickness of between 0.1 and 10 ⁇ , the mean length is generally between 0.5 and 30 ⁇ and the mean width is between 0.5 and 30 ⁇ .
  • the composite particles contain a matrix comprising an organic and/or inorganic material, in which matrix particles of inorganic UV-screening agent are included.
  • the particles of inorganic UV-screening agent are characterized by a mean elementary size generally of less than 0.2 ⁇ .
  • the metal oxide particles used have a mean elementary size of less than or equal to 0.1 ⁇ .
  • the composite particles contain a matrix made of an organic and/or inorganic material, covered with at least one layer of inorganic UV- screening agent connected to the matrix by means of a binder.
  • the mean thickness of the layer of inorganic UV- screening agent is generally about ten nanometres.
  • the mean thickness of the layer of inorganic UV-screening agent is advantageously between 0.001 and 0.2 ⁇ and preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 ⁇ .
  • the non-spherical composite particles contain an inorganic UV-screening agent covered with at least one layer of an organic and/or inorganic material.
  • the particles of inorganic UV-screening agent are characterized by a mean elementary size generally of between 0.001 and 0.2 ⁇ .
  • the metal oxide particles used have a mean elementary size of between 0.01 and 0.1 ⁇ ⁇ .
  • the non-spherical composite particles used according to the invention have a size of between 0.1 and 30 ⁇ and preferably between 0.5 and 10 ⁇ .
  • the inorganic UV-screening agent used in the composite particle is chosen from metal oxides, in particular from titanium, zinc or iron oxides and more particularly titanium dioxide (Ti0 2 ).
  • the matrix of the composite particle contains a material or mixture of materials chosen from:
  • the matrix of the composite particle is formed from a material or mixture of materials chosen from:
  • particle of non-spherical shape means any particle in which the ratio L/l is greater than 1.2 (L: largest external dimension; I: smallest external dimension). This in particular comprises, in a non-limiting manner, particles of flat shape.
  • L largest external dimension
  • I smallest external dimension
  • the evaluation of the shape of the particles of the invention that do not screen out UV radiation may be performed by scanning electron microscopy. The nature of these particles is varied and may be chosen from talc, mica, alumina and silica, without this list being limiting.
  • the shape of the non-screening particles of the invention is flat.
  • the non-screening non-spherical (also known as lamellar) particles are particles of parallelepipedal shape (rectangular or square surface), discoid shape (circular surface) or ellipsoid shape (oval surface), characterized by three dimensions: a length, a width and a height.
  • the shape is circular, the length and the width are identical and correspond to the diameter of a disc, whereas the height corresponds to the thickness of the disc.
  • the surface is oval, the length and the width correspond, respectively, to the large axis and the small axis of an ellipse and the height corresponds to the thickness of the elliptic disc formed by the platelet.
  • the length and the width may be of identical or different dimensions: when they are of the same dimension, the shape of the surface of the parallelepiped is a square; in the contrary case, the shape is rectangular. As regards the height, it corresponds to the thickness of the parallelepiped.
  • the length of the lamellar particles used according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.01 to 200 ⁇ , better still from 0.1 to 100 ⁇ and even better still from 1 to 60 ⁇ .
  • the width of these platelets preferably ranges from 0.01 to 100 ⁇ , better still from 0.1 to 50 ⁇ and even better still from 1 to 10 ⁇ .
  • the height (thickness) of these platelets preferably ranges from 10 "4 to 1 ⁇ , better still from 0.001 to 0.6 ⁇ and even better still from 0.001 to 0.5 ⁇ .
  • non-spherical non-screening particles according to the invention are chosen from aluminas, silicas, talcs, micas and nacres, and mixtures thereof.
  • Talcs are hydrated magnesium silicates usually comprising aluminium silicate.
  • the crystal structure of talc consists of repeated layers of a sandwich of brucite between layers of silica.
  • Micas are aluminium silicates optionally comprising iron and/or alkali metals. They have the property of being able to divide into thin layers (about 1 ⁇ ). They generally range in size from 5 to 150 ⁇ , preferably from 10 to 100 ⁇ and better still from 10 to 60 ⁇ or the largest dimension (length), and a height (thickness) of from 0.1 to 0.5 ⁇ . Micas that may be mentioned include phlogopite, muscovite, fluorophlogopite and vermiculite, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of micaceous clays such as illite.
  • nacres should be understood as meaning iridescent particles, produced especially by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized, which serve to modify the texture of the composition and also the matt/gloss effect. Nacres are generally micas that are surface-treated to obtain this iridescent effect. Among the nacres that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of micas coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment and/or with bismuth oxychloride, such as coloured or uncoloured titanium oxide-mica (or titanium-mica), and mixtures thereof.
  • talcs such as those sold under the name SI-2 Talc JA-46R (NC) by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo or Micro Ace P3 by the company Nippon Talc.
  • the content of non-screening non-spherical particles in the composition according to the invention is between 0.1 % and 20%, preferably between 0.5% and 10% and even more preferentially between 0.5% and 10%.
  • compositions in accordance with the invention comprise at least one anhydrous phase comprising at least one polar oil.
  • polar oil means any lipophilic compound having, at 25°C, a solubility parameter 6d characteristic of dispersive interactions of greater than 16 and a solubility parameter ⁇ characteristic of polar interactions strictly greater than 0.
  • solubility parameters 6d and ⁇ are defined according to the Hansen classification.
  • these polar oils may be chosen from esters, triglycerides and ethers.
  • the parameters ⁇ ⁇ , 6 h , 6 D and 6 a are expressed in (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • the polar oil may be a volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • polar hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups. According to a first embodiment, the polar oil may be a non-volatile oil. In particular, the non-volatile polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:
  • phytostearyl esters such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C 4 to C 36 , and especially from Ci 8 to C 36 , these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil (820.6 g/mol), corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil
  • RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon- based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octan
  • fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms for instance octyldodecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol;
  • - C12-C22 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;
  • dialkyl carbonates the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC ® by Cognis; and
  • non-volatile oils of high molecular mass for example between 400 and 10 000 g/mol, in particular between 650 and 10 000 g/mol, for instance:
  • esters and polyesters of dimer diol and of monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid such as esters of dimer diol and of fatty acid and esters of dimer diol and of dimer dicarboxylic acid, such as Lusplan DD-DA5 ® and Lusplan DD-DA7 ® sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application US 2004-175 338, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference, - and mixtures thereof.
  • the polar oil is chosen from C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate, butyloctyl salicylate, 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, dicaprylyl ether, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate, octyl palmitate and tridecyl trimellitate.
  • the polar oil is a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate.
  • the mass content of polar oil (excluding lipophilic organic screening agent) relative to the total weight of the composition preferably ranges from 1 % to 95% and more preferentially from 10% to 70% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the "fatty phase" of the compositions according to the invention may also comprise a wax, an apolar oil or mixtures thereof.
  • wax is understood to mean a compound which is solid or substantially solid at room temperature and which has a melting point generally of greater than 35°C.
  • apolar oils and the waxes conventionally used in cosmetic compositions may be used in the compositions according to the present invention.
  • compositions according to the invention may also comprise additional cosmetic and/or dermatological active agents.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises at least one organic UV-screening agent.
  • organic UV-screening agents include in particular the following hydrophobic or hydrophilic UV-screening agents.
  • hydrophobic screening agent means: - any screening agent that is lipophilic, i.e. which can be fully dissolved in molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase;
  • any screening agent that is insoluble both in a liquid fatty phase and in a liquid aqueous phase.
  • hydrophilic screening agent means any screening agent that can be fully dissolved in molecular state in a liquid aqueous phase or that can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.
  • Neo Heliopan MA Menthyl anthranilate sold in particular under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA by Symrise.
  • hydrophobic screening agents A are used:
  • the preferred water-soluble UV-A screening agent is terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid.
  • para-Aminobenzoates - Ethyl PABA
  • Ethylhexyl salicylate sold in particular under the name Neo Heliopan OS by Symrise; Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold in particular under the name Dipsal by Scher;
  • TEA salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS by Symrise.
  • Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name Parsol MCX by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.;
  • Neo Heliopan E 1000 by Symrise
  • Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N539 by BASF;
  • Etocrylene sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N35 by BASF.
  • Methylbenzylidenecamphor sold in particular under the name Eusolex 6300 by Merck; Polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidenecamphor manufactured under the name Mexoryl SW by Chimex.
  • Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF;
  • Polyorganosiloxanes containing benzalmalonate functions for instance Polysilicone-15, sold in particular under the trade name Parsol SLX by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.; Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate.
  • hydrophobic UV-B screening agents are used in the composition of the invention:
  • PABA p-aminobenzoic acid
  • PEG-25 PABA sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul P25 by BASF.
  • Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232 by Merck,
  • the preferred UVB screening agent is phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid.
  • Benzophenone-1 sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul 400 by BASF;
  • Benzophenone-2 sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul D50 by BASF;
  • Benzophenone-6 sold in particular under the trade name Helisorb 11 by Norquay;
  • Benzophenone-8 sold in particular under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24 by American Cyanamid;
  • Drometrizole trisiloxane sold in particular under the name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie or manufactured under the name Meroxyl XL by the company Chimex;
  • Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol sold in solid form in particular under the trade name Mixxim BB/100 by Fairmount Chemical, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion in particular under the trade name Tinosorb M by Ciba Specialty Chemicals.
  • Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine sold in particular under the trade name Tinosorb S by Ciba-Geigy.
  • UVA and UVB hydrophobic organic screening agents are chosen from:
  • Benzophenone derivatives comprising at least one sulfonic radical, such as
  • the organic screening agents when they are present, are present in contents ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.1 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.
  • compositions in accordance with the present invention may also comprise standard cosmetic adjuvants chosen especially from organic solvents, ionic or nonionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoams, fragrances, preserving agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, fillers, polymers, propellants, basifying or acidifying agents or any other ingredient commonly used in the cosmetics and/or dermatological field.
  • standard cosmetic adjuvants chosen especially from organic solvents, ionic or nonionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoams, fragrances, preserving agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, fillers, polymers
  • organic solvents that may be mentioned are lower alcohols and polyols.
  • These polyols may be chosen from glycols and glycol ethers, for instance ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.
  • Hydrophilic thickeners that may be mentioned include carboxyvinyl polymers, such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and the Pemulens (acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for instance the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C13-C14 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, for instance poly(2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate) or Simulgel 800
  • Lipophilic thickeners that may be mentioned include synthetic polymers, such as the poly(C10-C30 alkyl acrylates) sold under the names Intelimer I PA 13-1 and Intelimer I PA 13-6 by the company Landec, or else modified clays, such as hectorite and its derivatives, for instance the products sold under the name Bentone.
  • compositions according to the invention may also comprise additional cosmetic or dermatological active agents. Mention may be made, among active agents, of:
  • moisturizers for instance polyols such as glycerol, butylene glycol or propylene glycol; - antiinflammatory agents;
  • a person skilled in the art will select the said active agent(s) as a function of the effect desired on the skin, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the nails.
  • compositions according to the invention may be prepared according to the techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • compositions according to the invention are preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the emulsification processes that may be used are of paddle or impeller, rotor-stator and high-pressure homogenizer (HPH) type.
  • the emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.
  • nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, such as the PEG 100 stearate/glyceryl stearate mixture sold, for example, by ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; esters of sugars, such as sucrose stearate; or ethers of fatty alcohol and of sugar, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, sold, for example
  • APGs alkyl polyglucosides
  • the composition comprises at least one emulsifier chosen from dimer surfactants known as "gemini surfactants” comprising two identical or different surfactant units, each formed from a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail and linked together, via the hydrophilic heads, by a spacer group.
  • dimer surfactants known as "gemini surfactants” comprising two identical or different surfactant units, each formed from a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail and linked together, via the hydrophilic heads, by a spacer group.
  • dimer surfactants Preferred in particular among the above dimer surfactants are the anionic surfactants corresponding to formula (I):
  • R 1 and R 3 represent a linear C 8 -Ci 6 alkyl group
  • R 2 represents a C 2 -C 8 alkyl group
  • a preferred gemini surfactant of this family is a sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate (I NCI name) anionic compound of formula:
  • This gemini surfactant may be used, for example, in the following mixtures sold by the company Sasol under the name Ceralution ® :
  • Ceralution® H Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate,
  • ⁇ Ceralution® F Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate,
  • Ceralution® C Aqua, Capric/Caprylic triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabic, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI names).
  • the mixture Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate (Ceralution® H) will be used more particularly.
  • concentration of gemini surfactant(s) used in the present invention preferably ranges from 0.001 % to 8%, preferably from 0.01 % to 4% and in particular from 0.05% to 3% relative to the total weight of the photoprotective composition.
  • isophthalic acid or sulfoisophthalic acid polymers and in particular phthalate/sulfoisophthalate/glycol copolymers, for example the diethylene glycol/phthalate/isophthalate/1 ,4- cyclohexanedimethanol copolymer (INCI name: Polyester- 5) sold under the name Eastman AQ Polymer (AQ35S, AQ38S, AQ55S and AQ48 Ultra) by the company Eastman Chemical.
  • hydrophobic modified 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers such as those described in patent application EP 1 069 142.
  • the aqueous phase of this emulsion may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).
  • compositions 1 to 4 below were prepared. The ingredients are given as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase A and oily phase Bi are prepared by mixing the raw materials, with mechanical stirring, at 80°C; the solutions obtained are macroscopically homogeneous.
  • the emulsion is prepared by slow introduction of the oily phase into the aqueous phase with stirring using a Moritz homogenizer at a stirring speed of 4000 rpm for 15 minutes.
  • the emulsion obtained is cooled, with stirring, to 40°C, then the oily phase B 2 is added thereto with gentle stirring, followed by the phases C and D.
  • the emulsion obtained is cooled to room temperature with gentle stirring. It is characterized by drops between 1 ⁇ and 10 ⁇ in size.
  • the sun protection factor is determined according to the "in vitro" method described by B.L. Diffey in J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 40, 127-133, (1989). The measurements were made using a UV-1000S spectrophotometer from the company Labsphere. Each composition is applied to a rough plate of PMMA, in the form of a homogeneous and even deposit at a rate of 1 mg/cm 2 .
  • compositions of the invention The stability of the compositions of the invention is evaluated by macroscopic and microscopic observation of their aspect and by measuring their viscosity using a Rheomat 180 viscometer at 25°C at a shear rate of 200 s "1 and with a spindle chosen as a function of the viscosity of the composition.
  • a composition is judged stable when its macroscopic and microscopic aspect and its viscosity are stable for 1 month at room temperature.
  • the glidance after application of the formula to the skin is evaluated by applying the formula to a forearm at a rate of 2 mg/cm 2 , waiting for a drying time equal to 2 minutes and then assessing the friction force felt between the fingers and the surface of the forearm.

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique sous la forme d'une émulsion huile dans l'eau contenant, dans un milieu acceptable cosmétiquement, a) une phase anhydre contenant au moins une huile polaire; b) au moins des particules composites présentant une taille moyenne comprise entre 0,1 et 30 µm, comprenant une matrice et un agent de protection contre les UV, inorganique dont la teneur varie entre 1% en poids à 70% en poids par rapport au poids total de la particule composite; c) au moins des particules non sphériques qui ne protègent pas du rayonnement ultraviolet et sont choisis parmi les alumines, les silices, les talcs, les micas et les nacres, et des mélanges associés.
PCT/EP2012/050955 2011-02-04 2012-01-23 Émulsion huile dans l'eau contenant des particules protectrices en composite, des particules non protectrices et non sphériques, et au moins une huile polaire WO2012104160A2 (fr)

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FR1150915 2011-02-04
FR1150915A FR2971151B1 (fr) 2011-02-04 2011-02-04 Composition cosmetique contenant des particules filtrantes de materiau composite, des particules non filtrantes non-spheriques et au moins une huile polaire
US201161441850P 2011-02-11 2011-02-11
US61/441,850 2011-02-11

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Cited By (3)

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WO2014184224A1 (fr) * 2013-05-16 2014-11-20 Dsm Ip Assets B.V. Composition cosmétique comprenant un agent de protection ou d'augmentation de collagène et compositions topiques de particules comprenant de la silice et du dioxyde de titane
CN109963546A (zh) * 2016-10-14 2019-07-02 孟都矿业有限公司 抛光的滑石微珠
CN113317997A (zh) * 2021-07-02 2021-08-31 广州集妍化妆品科技有限公司 一种抗黯沉组合物、抗黯沉化妆品及其制备方法

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WO2014184224A1 (fr) * 2013-05-16 2014-11-20 Dsm Ip Assets B.V. Composition cosmétique comprenant un agent de protection ou d'augmentation de collagène et compositions topiques de particules comprenant de la silice et du dioxyde de titane
KR20160007532A (ko) * 2013-05-16 2016-01-20 디에스엠 아이피 어셋츠 비.브이. 콜라겐 보호제 또는 강화제, 및 실리카 및 티타늄 다이옥사이드를 포함하는 입자를 포함하는 미용 조성물인 국소 조성물
CN105392465A (zh) * 2013-05-16 2016-03-09 帝斯曼知识产权资产管理有限公司 包含胶原保护剂或胶原增强剂且包含含有二氧化硅和二氧化钛的颗粒的化妆品组合物
US9693940B2 (en) 2013-05-16 2017-07-04 Dsm Ip Assets B.V. Cosmetic composition comprising a collagen protecting or enhancing agent and particles comprising silica and titanium dioxide topical compositions
CN105392465B (zh) * 2013-05-16 2019-03-29 帝斯曼知识产权资产管理有限公司 包含胶原保护剂或胶原增强剂且包含含有二氧化硅和二氧化钛的颗粒的化妆品组合物
KR102214817B1 (ko) 2013-05-16 2021-02-15 디에스엠 아이피 어셋츠 비.브이. 콜라겐 보호제 또는 강화제, 및 실리카 및 티타늄 다이옥사이드를 포함하는 입자를 포함하는 미용 조성물인 국소 조성물
CN109963546A (zh) * 2016-10-14 2019-07-02 孟都矿业有限公司 抛光的滑石微珠
CN113317997A (zh) * 2021-07-02 2021-08-31 广州集妍化妆品科技有限公司 一种抗黯沉组合物、抗黯沉化妆品及其制备方法

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WO2012104160A3 (fr) 2013-07-18
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