WO2012084338A2 - Agent de traitement capillaire pour le lissage de fibres kératiniques - Google Patents

Agent de traitement capillaire pour le lissage de fibres kératiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012084338A2
WO2012084338A2 PCT/EP2011/070016 EP2011070016W WO2012084338A2 WO 2012084338 A2 WO2012084338 A2 WO 2012084338A2 EP 2011070016 W EP2011070016 W EP 2011070016W WO 2012084338 A2 WO2012084338 A2 WO 2012084338A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
acid
polyquaternium
salts
weight
keratin
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PCT/EP2011/070016
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2012084338A3 (fr
Inventor
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
Wolfgang Wolff
Yvonne Lissner
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2012084338A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012084338A2/fr
Publication of WO2012084338A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012084338A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/447—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof containing sulfur
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a hair treatment composition for smoothing keratin-containing fibers and to a process for smoothing keratinous fibers with this hair treatment agent.
  • keratin-containing fibers are usually carried out by mechanically deforming the fiber and determining the deformation by means of suitable aids.
  • the fiber is treated with the aqueous preparation of a keratin-reducing compound and rinsed after a contact time with water or an aqueous solution.
  • the fiber is then treated with the aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent. After an exposure time, this is also rinsed out.
  • the second type of smoothing uses hair creams and pomades, which contain a high content of fatty substances, in particular paraffins. As a result, the hair is heavily weighted, which makes it a smooth appearance. This is done in particular by combing and pulling strongly.
  • the smoothing keratin fibers containing highly curled is disadvantageous that after application of the keratin-reducing compound, the fibers must either be straightened by constant, such as combing, or by fixing aids, such as large-diameter winder, into a smooth shape.
  • This adversely affects the gloss, combability of the wet and dry keratinic fibers, the grip of the wet and dry fibers, and the susceptibility to split of the keratinic fiber.
  • all animal hair e.g. Wool, horsehair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products or textiles made from them.
  • the keratinic fibers are human hairs.
  • the aqueous preparation of the keratin-reducing compound is usually adjusted to be alkaline so that, on the one hand, a sufficient proportion of the thiol functions are deprotonated and, on the other hand, the fiber swells and in this way a deep penetration of the keratin-reducing substance into the fiber is made possible.
  • the keratin-reducing compound cleaves some of the disulfide bonds of the keratin to -SH groups, thus causing a relaxation of the Peptide crosslinking and due to the tension of the fiber by the mechanical deformation to a reorientation of Keratingeglages comes.
  • the smoothing is gentle on the skin and, in the case of an application on the hair of a test person, also gentle on the scalp.
  • a staining, in particular an oxidative staining, of the keratin fibers can be carried out without difficulty following the application of the said composition, without the fiber structure being overused.
  • the combability of the wet and dry fibers is significantly improved.
  • the fibers show a pleasant and supple soft feel in both dry and wet conditions.
  • the keratinic fibers treated with these smoothing agents show a significantly increased gloss.
  • a first object of the present invention is a hair treatment composition containing
  • keratin reducing compound selected from thioglycolic acid and its salts, and / or thiolactic acid and its salts and / or cysteine and / or acetylcysteine and / or cysteamine and salts thereof and mixtures of this keratin reducing compounds.
  • a second subject of the present invention is a method comprising the following steps:
  • the fibers are rinsed and optionally dried after a contact time Z1, d) subsequently an oxidative composition containing 0.01 to 20.0% by weight, based on the agent, of Bertholletia excelsea nut oil and 0.01 to 15, 0% by weight, based on the average, of at least one oxidizing agent selected from sodium bromate or Potassium bromate or hydrogen peroxide is applied to the fibers and after a
  • Reaction time Z2 is rinsed off again.
  • compositions of the invention contain the ingredients in a cosmetic carrier.
  • Preferred cosmetic carriers are water-containing cosmetic carriers.
  • the composition according to the invention preferably contains at least 10% by weight of water, more preferably at least 40% by weight of water, most preferably at least 60% by weight of water, in each case based on the total agent.
  • the grip defines the tactility of a fiber collective, whereby the expert sensoryly senses and evaluates the parameters fullness and suppleness of the collective.
  • Shaping is understood to mean the ability to give a shape change to a group of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair. Hair cosmetics also speak of hair styling.
  • an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent on hair in a cosmetic carrier is defined according to the invention.
  • Brazil nut oil is understood to mean Brazil nut oil, but also Brazil Nut Oil, which is the oil pressed from the nuts of the Brazil nut tree, preferably using the cold pressed oil is not exceeded by 60 ° C. During the pressing process, the oil of the first pressing is particularly preferred. Oils according to the invention are commercially available, for example, from the companies Rovi or Dr. Straetmans.
  • the Brazil nut, Bertholletia excelsea nut oil, in an amount of 0.01 to 20.0 wt.%, Preferably from 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.05 to 7.5 wt.% And most preferably used in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%.
  • a compound is considered keratin-reducing if a solution of 50 mmol of this compound in 100 g of water at 20 ° C. and a pH of 8 (adjusted with 2-aminoethanol) disulfide bonds of the keratin to -SH- Groups splits.
  • the keratin-reducting substances are selected from thioglycolic acid and its salts, and / or thiolactic acid and its salts and / or cysteine and / or acetylcysteine and / or cysteamine and salts thereof and mixtures thereof.
  • keratin-reducing compounds thioglycolic acid and its salts, and / or thiolactic acid and its salts and / or cysteine and / or acetylcysteine and / or cysteamine are present as a salt, in principle all physiologically compatible cations are suitable as counterions.
  • these are metal cations of the physiologically acceptable metals from the groups Ia, Ib, IIa, IIb, IIIb, Via or VIII of the Periodic Table of the Elements, as well as cationic organic compounds having a quaternized nitrogen atom. The latter are formed, for example, by protonation of primary, secondary or tertiary organic amines with an acid.
  • (C 2 to C 6 ) -alkanolammonium ions are preferred.
  • these cationic organic (C 2 to C 6 ) -alkanolammonium ions are 2-ammonioethanol and 2-trimethylammonioethanol.
  • the term (C 2 to C 6 ) -alkanolammonium ion means organic ammonium compounds which have two to six carbon atoms which form a carbon skeleton to which at least one ammonio group (preferably exactly one ammonio group) and at least one hydroxy group (again preferably exactly one hydroxy group) binds.
  • Preferred (C 2 to C 6 ) -alkanolammonium ions are 2-ammonioethane-1-ol, 3-ammoniopropane-1-ol, 4-ammoniobutan-1-ol, 5-ammoniopentan-1-ol, 1-ammononiopropane 2-ol, 1-ammoniobutan-2-ol, 1-ammononiopentan-2-ol, 1-ammononiopentan-3-ol, 1-ammononiopentan-4-ol, 3-ammonio-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1 - Ammonio-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-ammoniopropane-1, 2-diol or 2-ammonio-2-methylpropane-1, 3-diol.
  • any stereoisomers of said chiral derivatives are included. It is preferably the L-form.
  • a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention contains as keratin reducing substance thioglycolic acid and / or thiolactic acid or its salts and cysteine or its salts. These compounds show excellent effects when they are in a ratio (thioglycolic acid or thiolactic acid relative to cysteine) of from 1:20 to 1: 1, preferably from 1:15 to 1: 1, more preferably from 1:10 to 1: 3 on their respective weight in the entire composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain mixtures in the previously described mixing ratios of thioglycolic acid and its salts as well as L-cysteine hydrochloride monohydrate.
  • the total amount of keratin reducing compounds is 0.01 to 15.0% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 15.0% by weight, based on the composition, amounts of 0.1 to 12.0% by weight are preferred here.
  • the amount of thioglycolic acid or thioglycolate is preferably 0.1 to 7 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.1 to 5.0 wt.%.
  • the amount of cysteine, cysteamine is preferably 0.1 to 12.0% by weight, based on the total composition, more preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight, and most preferably 1, 0 to 8.0% by weight. ,
  • compositions according to the invention particularly well achieve the object if the pH is greater than pH 7, in particular pH 7.5 to pH 10.0, particularly preferably pH 8.0 to pH 9.5.
  • the nourishing effect is further enhanced by using at least one cationic substance. In this most preferred embodiment, therefore, 0.1 to 10.0 wt.% Of at least one quaternary ammonium compound selected from at least one of the groups
  • radicals R are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or
  • quaternized cellulose derivatives in particular Polyquaternium 10 and / or Polyquaternium 67, and / or
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds are in principle monomeric cationic or amphoteric ammonium compounds, monomeric amines, aminoamides, polymeric cationic ammonium compounds and polymeric amphoteric ammonium compounds. From this large number of possible quaternary ammonium compounds, the following groups have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1 -2) form the first group.
  • radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different.
  • the radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:
  • branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
  • aryl or alkaryl radical for example phenyl or benzyl
  • radical (--X - R4) with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R1, R2 or R3 can stand for this radical:
  • the rest - (X - R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times.
  • n 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,
  • hydroxyalkyl group of one to four carbon atoms which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups.
  • Examples are: -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH 2 CHOHCH 3 , -CH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -COH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals,
  • R6-0-CO- wherein R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units may be ethoxylated
  • R7-CO- wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated
  • R7-CO- wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and
  • A represents a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here as representative of all structures also described below.
  • the anion of all described cationic compounds is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO 3 " , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as Maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.
  • Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ®, Stepantex® ®, Dehyquart® ®, ® and Armocare® Akypoquat ®.
  • the products Armocare ® VGH-70, Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® C-4046 Dehyquart ® L80, Dehyquart ® F-30, Dehyquart ® AU-35, Rewoquat ® WE18, Rewoquat ® WE38 DPG, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131 are examples of these esterquats.
  • R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.
  • esterquats with tradenames Armocare ® VGH-70 are, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® L80, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131st
  • Tkat2 Another group are quaternary imidazoline compounds.
  • the formula (Tkat2) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.
  • the radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat2) contain for R the same hydrocarbon radical.
  • the chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms.
  • A is an anion as previously described.
  • Especially inventive Examples are available, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. Quaternium 91 is highly preferred according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention furthermore comprise at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas:
  • R 1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and
  • R2, R3 and R4 are each independently
  • hydroxyalkyl group having one to 4 carbon atoms having at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH 2 CHOHCH 3 , -CH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -COH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and
  • A is an anion as previously described and
  • n is an integer between 1 and 10.
  • R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means.
  • amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R 2, R 3 and / or R 4 in the formula (Tkat3) represent a radical according to the general formula CH 2 CH 2 OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms , Hydroxyethyl or hydrogen.
  • the preferred size of n in the general formula (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.
  • the alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.
  • Witcamine ® 100 Incromine ® BB, Mackine ® 401 and other Mackine ® grades, Adogen ® S18V, and as a permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat ® RTM 50, Empigen ® CSC, Swanol ® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat ® UTM 50, Schercoquat® ® BAS ® Lexquat AMG-BEO, or Incroquat ® behenyl HE.
  • the abovementioned cationic surfactants can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0, 1 to 5.0% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.
  • quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic and amphoteric polymers.
  • the cationic and / or amphoteric polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers or polymers based on natural polymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers.
  • the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary
  • Vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts.
  • the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • R -H or -CH 3 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C 1-4-
  • Alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and
  • Polymers are those inventively preferred for which at least one of the following
  • R is a methyl group
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are methyl groups
  • m is 2.
  • Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X " include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ion. Preference is given to methosulfates and halide ions, in particular chloride.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is the optionally crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium 37.
  • Such products are, for example, under the names Rheocare ® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen ® CR (3V Sigma) are commercially available.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion.
  • Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 and Salcare ® SC 96 in the trade.
  • Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula G-O-B-N + R a R b R c A "
  • G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose
  • B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or
  • R a , R b and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R a , R b and R c is preferably not more than 20 is;
  • a " is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.
  • Cationic, ie quaternized celluloses are available on the market with varying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights.
  • Polyquaternium-67 is commercially available under the designations SL ® polymer or polymer ® SK (Amerchol) is.
  • Other cationic celluloses are, 400 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-10) and polymer Quatrisoft ® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-24) under the names Polymer JR ®.
  • Other commercial products, the compounds Celquat ® H 100 and Celquat ® L are 200.
  • Mirustyle CP ® of the company.
  • Croda with Trimonium and Cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose a further derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72 before.
  • Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.
  • Particularly preferred cationic celluloses are Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72.
  • Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Also particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives also by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative. The cationic guar derivatives are preferred according to the invention.
  • a suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ®.
  • a preferred chitosan salt is Chitosoniumpyrrolidoncarboxylat, which is sold, for example under the name Kytamer PC from Amerchol, USA.
  • Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ® CMF, Hydagen® ® HCMF and Chitolam ® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.
  • honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 and FC 905 and HM 552,
  • vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ® 755 N and Gafquat ® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and the INCI - name Polyquaternium-1 1,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ® SF 40.
  • Amphoteric polymers of the invention are those polymers in which a cationic
  • R -CH CR 2 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N (+) R 2 R 3 R 4 A () (monol)
  • R and R 2 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z denotes an NH group or an oxygen atom, n denotes an integer of 2 to 5 and A () is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
  • R 6 and R 7 independently of one another represent a (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and
  • R 8 -CH CR 9 -COOH (mono 3)
  • R 8 and R 9 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
  • amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (monol) or (mono 2) with the monomer (mono 3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (mono 2) and (mono 3).
  • amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, inter alia with the trade name Merquat® 280 (Nalco).
  • amphoteric polymers according to the invention may additionally contain one monomer (mono 4).
  • R 0 and R independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R 2 is a hydrogen atom or a (C 8 -C 8 ) -alkyl group.
  • Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, inter alia, under the trade name Merquat® Plus 3330 (Nalco).
  • Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, inter alia, under the trade name Merquat® Plus 3330 (Nalco).
  • the amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.
  • a highly preferred amphoteric polymer according to the invention is a copolymer which is composed as follows: 0.1 to 50% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of monomers of the formula (I)
  • R is preferably a methyl group, and also R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , R 5 and R 6 are methyl groups.
  • the group Z is preferably an -NH group, the index n is particularly preferably the number 3.
  • Polymers preferred according to the invention are composed of monomers A1)
  • A1 from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 10 to 50% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of monomers of the formula (Ia)
  • X is chloride, sulphate, methosulphate,
  • the monomers A2) from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and the alkali metal and ammonium salts of these acids,
  • the monomer A2 is 50 to 99.9%, preferably 50 to 90% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of the copolymer.
  • a further preferred monomer which corresponds to the criteria mentioned in the preceding paragraph, has, as group B, furthermore a -CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 2 group, as group A a - (CH 2 ) 2- or a - ( CH 2 ) 3 - or a - (CH 2 ) 4 group, and the index m is the number 1.
  • at least one copolymer A is selected from:
  • A1 from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 10 to 50% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of monomers of the formula (Ib)
  • p 2, 3 or 4
  • X is chloride, sulphate, methosulphate,
  • the monomer A2 represents 50 to 99.9%, preferably 50 to 90% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of the copolymer;
  • Particularly preferred monomers A2 are acrylic acid or its salts (also mixed, ie partially neutralized acrylic acids) and also acrylamide.
  • a preferred copolymer A is a copolymer of the monomer (Ia), sodium acrylate and acrylamide, the following distribution (in% of the total monomers contained in the polymer) being preferred:
  • Sodium acrylate 10 to 95%, preferably for 50 to 70%
  • Acrylamide 0 to 50%, preferably 0 to 30%
  • a preferred copolymer A contains the following number of the respective monomers:
  • Monomer (Ia) Values from 1 to 12500, preferably from 2 to 8000, more preferably from 3 to 4000 and in particular from 5 to 2000
  • Sodium acrylate Values from 1 to 24,000, preferably from 5 to 15,000, more preferably from
  • amphopolymers according to the invention are particularly preferred if they contain at least one copolymer A of the general formula (Ic)
  • Q stands for (0.1 to 0.95) Q, preferably for (0.5 to 0.7) Q and in particular for values from 1 to 24000, preferably from 5 to 15000, particularly preferably from 10 to 10000 and in particular from 100 to
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain a copolymer which is composed of monomers of the formula (Ia), maleic or fumaric acid (or their disodium salts) and acrylamide.
  • a copolymer which is composed of monomers of the formula (Ia), maleic or fumaric acid (or their disodium salts) and acrylamide.
  • the following distribution in% of the total monomers contained in the polymer is preferred:
  • Acrylamide 0 to 50%, preferably 0 to 30
  • a preferred copolymer A contains the following number of the respective monomers:
  • Monomer (Ia) Values from 1 to 12500, preferably from 2 to 8000, more preferably from 3 to 4000 and in particular from 5 to 2000
  • Maleic acid or fumaric acid (or their disodium salt): values of from 1 to 24,000, preferably from 5 to 15,000, more preferably from 10 to 10,000 and in particular from 100 to 4800
  • a most preferred polymer which is constructed as described previously, under the INCI - free commercially, for example from Rhodia available as Polycare ® Boost designation Polyquaternium-74.
  • amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.
  • the abovementioned cationic polymers can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.% Are included. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.
  • compositions according to the invention may contain include, for example
  • Heterocyclic compounds such as imidazole, pyrrolidine, piperidine, dioxolane, dioxane, morpholine and piperazine, and derivatives of these compounds, for example the C 1-4 -alkyl derivatives, C 1-4 -alkyl-alkyl derivatives and C 1-4 -alkyl-derivatives.
  • Preferred substituents which may be positioned on both carbon atoms and nitrogen atoms of the heterocyclic ring systems are methyl, ethyl, ⁇ -hydroxyethyl and ⁇ -aminoethyl groups.
  • Preferred derivatives of heterocyclic compounds according to the invention are, for example, 1-methylimidazole, 2-methylimidazole, 4 (5) -methylimidazole, 1, 2-dimethylimidazole, 2-ethylimidazole, 2-isopropylimidazole, N-methylpyrrolidone, 1-methylpiperidine, 4-methylpiperidine, 2 Ethyl piperidine, 4-methylmorpholine, 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) morpholine, 1-ethylpiperazine, 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine, 1- (2-aminoethyl) piperazine.
  • Further preferred imidazole derivatives according to the invention are biotin, hydantoin and benzimidazole. Most preferably, the imidazole.
  • Amino acids such as in particular arginine, citrulline, histidine, ornithine and lysine.
  • the amino acids can be used both as free amino acid and as salts, eg. B. as hydrochlorides used.
  • oligopeptides of on average 2-3 amino acids, which have a high proportion (> 50%, in particular> 70%) of the amino acids mentioned, have proven to be usable according to the invention.
  • Particularly preferred according to the invention are arginine and its salts and arginine-rich oligopeptides.
  • Diols such as 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, neopentyl glycol and ethylene glycol.
  • 1, 3-diols, especially 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol and 1, 3-butanediol, have been found to be particularly suitable.
  • the reinforcing compounds may be present in the compositions of the invention in amounts of from 0.5% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Amounts of 1 to 4 wt .-%, in the case of the diols of 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, have been found to be sufficient, which is why these amounts are particularly preferred.
  • compositions according to the invention may additionally contain at least one oil component which is different from the obligatory component Bertholletia excelsea nutoil.
  • Oil components which are suitable according to the invention are, in principle, all oils and fatty substances and also mixtures thereof with solid paraffins and waxes. Preference is given to those oil components whose solubility in water at 20 ° C. is less than 1% by weight, in particular less than 0.1% by weight.
  • the melting point of the individual oil or fat components is preferably below about 40 ° C. Oil components which are at room temperature, d. H. may be liquid below 25 ° C, may be particularly preferred according to the invention. When using several oil and fat components and possibly solid paraffins and waxes, it is usually sufficient, however, if the mixture of oil and fat components and possibly paraffins and waxes meets these conditions.
  • a preferred group of oil components are vegetable oils.
  • vegetable oils examples include Apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.
  • triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
  • liquid paraffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and also di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n -decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether,
  • the compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
  • oil components are fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 3 to 24 C atoms are preferred.
  • This group of substances are the products of the esterification of fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms such as caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, Petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, the z.
  • alcohols such as isopropyl alcohol, glycerol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, for example in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils.
  • Isotridecyl alcohol myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof, which are described, for example, in US Pat. B.
  • dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and diisotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate and Neopentylglykoldi-capylate oil components used in the invention, as complex esters such.
  • dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and diisotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as
  • oil components which can preferably be used according to the invention are also silicone oils, in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, such as, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated and quaternized analogs and also cyclic siloxanes.
  • silicones examples include the products marketed by Dow Corning under the names DC 190, DC 200 and DC 1401 and the commercial products DC 344 and DC 345 from Dow Corning, Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning ® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® -Quat 3270 and 3272 ( Manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; quaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).
  • Dow Corning a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone
  • Dow Corning ® 929 emulsion containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone
  • SM-2059 manufactured by General Electric
  • silicone oils having a kinematic viscosity of up to 50,000 cSt, measured at 25 ° C. may be preferred. Very particular preference is given to silicone oils having kinematic viscosities of up to 10,000 cSt, measured at 25.degree.
  • the determination of the viscosities is carried out according to the falling ball method according to the method "british standard 188". Comparable values are obtained with manufacturer's "British Standard 188" analog test specifications, for example "CTM 0577” from Dow Corning Corporation.
  • especially cyclic siloxanes such as the products of Dow Corning ® 344, Dow Corning ® 345, Dow Corning ® 244, Dow Corning ® 245 or Dow Corning ® 246 are used as oil component having kinematic viscosities of up to 10,000 cSt at 25 ° C determined according to the manufacturer's instructions.
  • oil components which can be used according to the invention are also dialkyl carbonates, as described in detail in DE-OS 197 101 54, to which reference is expressly made.
  • Dioctyl carbonates, especially the di-2-ethylhexyl carbonate, are preferred oil components within the scope of the present invention.
  • compositions according to the invention may additionally contain only limited water-miscible alcohols.
  • water-immiscible miscible are meant those alcohols which are soluble in water at 20 ° C to not more than 10 wt .-%, based on the mass of water.
  • triols and in particular diols have proven to be particularly suitable according to the invention.
  • Alcohols having 4 to 20, in particular 4 to 10, carbon atoms can be used according to the invention.
  • the alcohols used in the invention may be saturated or unsaturated and linear, branched or cyclic.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • alcohols are 2-ethyl-hexanediol-1, 3, butanol-1, cyclohexanol, pentanol-1 and 1, 2-butanediol.
  • 2-ethyl-hexanediol-1, 3, but also butanol-1 and cyclohexanol are particularly preferred.
  • emulsifiers can be used in the compositions according to the invention.
  • Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion.
  • Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule.
  • Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions.
  • An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants.
  • the selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in "H. -D.Derfler, interfacial and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH, Weinheim, 1994".
  • Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
  • Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which are located at C atom 3 of the steroid Skeleton carry a hydroxyl group and be isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) as well as vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
  • glucose phospholipids e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ® PGPH),
  • Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the particular total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the methods described in the Römpp-Lexikon Chemie (Hrg. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764, listed definitions.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the hydrous composition according to the invention may be in various forms, for example as a lotion, oil-in-water emulsion or water-in-oil emulsion.
  • compositions according to the invention contain a caring active substance selected from protein hydrolysates and their derivatives.
  • protein hydrolysates are elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, silk protein, soy protein, almond protein, pea protein, potato protein, oat protein, corn protein and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • products based on plants can be preferred according to the invention.
  • Suitable derivatives are, in particular, quaternized protein hydrolysates.
  • Examples of this class of compounds are sold under the names Lamequat® ® L (CTFA name: lauryl ryldimonium hydroxypropylamino Hydrolyzed Animal Protein; Grunau), Croquat ® WKP and Gluadin® ® WQ on the market products. The latter plant-based product may be preferred.
  • the protein derivatives are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are preferred.
  • anionic surfactants such as soap
  • zwitterionic surfactants such as betaines and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines.
  • ampholytic surfactants such as N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids.
  • nonionic surfactants such as addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 15 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, C12-C22 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol, C8-C22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues and addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil.
  • nonionic surfactants such as addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 15 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the
  • nonionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers,
  • anionic polymers such as polyacrylic and polymethacrylic acids, their salts, their copolymers with acrylic and methacrylic acid esters and amides and their derivatives, which are obtained by cross-linking with polyfunctional agents,
  • Polyoxycarboxylic acids such as polyketo- and polyaldehydocarboxylic acids and their salts, and also polymers and copolymers of crotonic acid with esters and amides of acrylic and methacrylic acid, such as vinyl acetate-crotonic acid and vinyl acetate-vinylpropionate-crotonic acid copolymers,
  • organic thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, cellulose ethers (such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, methylpropyl cellulose or methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose), gelatin, pectins and / or xanthan gum.
  • Ethoxylated fatty alcohols especially those with limited homolog distribution, such as for example as a commercial product under the name Arlypon ® F (Henkel) in the market, alkoxylated methylglucoside esters, such as the commercial product Glucamate ® DOE 120 (Amerchol), and ethoxylated propylene glycol esters, such as the commercial product Antil ® 141 (Goldschmidt) may be preferred organic thickeners.
  • Structurants such as glucose and maleic acid, hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg
  • Solubilizers such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol,
  • Anti-dandruff agents such as climbazole, piroctone olamine and zinc omadine,
  • Active ingredients such as bisabolol, allantoin, panthenol, niacinmide, tocopherol and plant extracts,
  • Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
  • Swelling and penetration substances such as PCA, glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates,
  • Opacifiers such as latex or styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate or PEG-3-distearate,
  • a third subject of the invention is a kit-of-parts comprising
  • Oxidizing agents in the sense of the invention are capable of oxidatively forming a disulfide bond from two thiol groups.
  • suitable are sodium bromate or potassium bromate or hydrogen peroxide.
  • Hydrogen peroxide is a particularly preferred oxidizing agent.
  • the oxidative preparation preferably contains 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular 2.0 to 9 wt .-%, oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide.
  • the oxidative preparation preferably contains at least 50% by weight of water.
  • the pH of the oxidative preparation is preferably from 2 to 6, in particular from 2 to 4.
  • the containers each have an application aid, which allows a direct application of the corresponding composition from the container to the hair.
  • this application aid on tines or bristles or nubs, with the help of which the hair can be mechanically smoothed.
  • a mechanical smoothing is understood according to the invention to mean a stretching of the curly, keratin-containing fiber along its longest spatial extent.
  • Tools for mechanical smoothing are in particular a comb or a brush, a smoothing board or a heatable smoothing iron. During step (iii) there is preferably no use of mechanical smoothing aids.
  • step (a) it is optional according to the invention to wet the keratin-containing fibers before step (a). This can be done by spraying the fibers with a liquid, preferably water.
  • a liquid preferably water.
  • the fibers are shampooed with a conventional shampoo, rinsed and then toweled with a towel. After completion of the terry step remains a noticeable residual moisture in the hair.
  • the agent of the first subject of the invention can also be applied to non-moistened keratin-containing fibers.
  • Mechanical smoothing is understood according to the invention to mean stretching of the curly fiber along its longest spatial extent.
  • the reaction time Z1 is preferably 5-60 minutes, more preferably 10-30 minutes.
  • the reaction time Z2 is preferably 1 to 30 minutes, more preferably 5 to 20 minutes.
  • oxidative compositions which can be used in the process according to the invention are the oxidative preparations described in connection with the kit-of-parts of the second subject of the invention.
  • a conditioning agent can be applied to the keratin-containing fibers following step (d) and rinsed off again after a contact time.
  • This conditioning agent preferably has a pH of pH less than 7, in particular in a pH range between pH 2.0 and pH 5.0.
  • this conditioner also contains in addition to the usual ingredients contained in conditioning agents in particular Bertholletia excelsea nut oil in the amounts already described, more preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.% Based on the weight of the conditioning agent.
  • step (d) of the process according to the invention no conditioning agent is applied to the keratin-containing fibers, or after its application and rinsing out of the conditioner, the keratin-containing fibers are processed in the usual way with the aid of air and heat, for example with the aid of a commercial hair dryer or dried with a towel and made into a hairstyle.
  • the aid of air and heat for example with the aid of a commercial hair dryer or dried with a towel and made into a hairstyle.
  • compositions of Table 1 were packaged in a container with application aid with prongs.
  • Bertholletia excelsea nut oil 0,2
  • Kit 1 (G1) and (Ol)
  • Kit 2 (G2) and (Ol)
  • Each subject applied the corresponding inventive composition of Table 1 by combing movements with the aid of the application aid of the container directly on the hair.
  • the composition of the invention was allowed to act for 20 minutes and rinsed thoroughly under running water. Then the respective oxidative preparation and with a brush were applied to the hair. After a contact time of 10 minutes, the hair was thoroughly rinsed under running water, combed and dried.
  • the natural hair of the subjects was smoothed and showed an intense shine, was easy to comb both wet and dried hair and felt supple soft. Subjects did not experience scalp irritation during and after use.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un agent de traitement capillaire pour le lissage de fibres kératiniques ainsi qu'un procédé pour le lissage de fibres kératiniques au moyen de cet agent de traitement capillaire. Le lissage de cheveux ondulés ou frisés est souvent souhaité et réalisé. Les cheveux très frisés sont aussi appelés "cheveux ethniques" ou "cheveux africains". Ce type de cheveux se rencontre naturellement surtout chez les personnes d'origine africaine. Les changements de mode aussi font apparaître au sein de la population le désir de lisser à nouveau des cheveux frisés ou permanentés par le passé.
PCT/EP2011/070016 2010-12-23 2011-11-14 Agent de traitement capillaire pour le lissage de fibres kératiniques WO2012084338A2 (fr)

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2012163594A3 (fr) * 2011-06-01 2013-03-21 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agents d'ondulation sensiblement sans ammoniac, contenant de la cystéine
CN108289814A (zh) * 2015-12-04 2018-07-17 宝洁公司 用于毛发卷曲减少的组合物
WO2019113656A1 (fr) * 2017-12-15 2019-06-20 L'oreal Compositions de soins capillaires sans rinçage améliorées
FR3130146A1 (fr) * 2021-12-10 2023-06-16 L'oreal Composition comprenant de la cystéine, un triglycéride d’acide gras particulier et un agent réducteur supplémentaire

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DE19710154A1 (de) 1997-03-12 1998-09-17 Henkel Kgaa Kosmetische und/oder pharmazeutische Zubereitungen

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DE19534722C3 (de) * 1995-09-19 2002-01-10 Goldwell Gmbh Mittel zur dauerhaften Verformung von menschlichen Haaren
EP1011609A4 (fr) * 1997-05-09 2000-08-16 Medlogic Global Corp Compositions pour applications cosmetiques
FR2940109B1 (fr) * 2008-12-18 2011-02-11 Natura Cosmeticos Sa Nanoemulsion huile dans l'eau contenant de l'huile de noix du bresil, composition cosmetique et produit cosmetique renfermant cette emulsion et utilisation de cette derniere.

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DE19710154A1 (de) 1997-03-12 1998-09-17 Henkel Kgaa Kosmetische und/oder pharmazeutische Zubereitungen

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Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2012163594A3 (fr) * 2011-06-01 2013-03-21 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agents d'ondulation sensiblement sans ammoniac, contenant de la cystéine
CN108289814A (zh) * 2015-12-04 2018-07-17 宝洁公司 用于毛发卷曲减少的组合物
CN108289814B (zh) * 2015-12-04 2022-04-01 宝洁公司 用于毛发卷曲减少的组合物
WO2019113656A1 (fr) * 2017-12-15 2019-06-20 L'oreal Compositions de soins capillaires sans rinçage améliorées
FR3130146A1 (fr) * 2021-12-10 2023-06-16 L'oreal Composition comprenant de la cystéine, un triglycéride d’acide gras particulier et un agent réducteur supplémentaire

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