WO2012023116A1 - Procédé cosmétique - Google Patents

Procédé cosmétique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012023116A1
WO2012023116A1 PCT/IB2011/053651 IB2011053651W WO2012023116A1 WO 2012023116 A1 WO2012023116 A1 WO 2012023116A1 IB 2011053651 W IB2011053651 W IB 2011053651W WO 2012023116 A1 WO2012023116 A1 WO 2012023116A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
optionally substituted
radical
light
cosmetic composition
radicals
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2011/053651
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Alain Lagrange
Henri Samain
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
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Publication of WO2012023116A1 publication Critical patent/WO2012023116A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/438—Thermochromatic; Photochromic; Phototropic
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/81—Preparation or application process involves irradiation
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q3/00—Manicure or pedicure preparations
    • A61Q3/02—Nail coatings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of human keratinous material, in particular the skin, lips, nails and/or keratinous fibers, in particular eyelashes, head hair or body hair.
  • keratinous material in particular the skin, lips, nails and/or keratinous fibers, in particular eyelashes, head hair or body hair.
  • the final result depends on the quality of the products, on the formulation techniques employed and also on the dexterity of the user.
  • Photochromic compounds may be advantageous for light-sensitive makeup but, in general, the color development is reversible and results in the disappearance of the image formed.
  • the expression "on a hair scale” is understood to mean an image on a millimeter scale or on a scale of around a hundred micrometers. Making so small an image, with conventional methods, poses technical problems that are very difficult to overcome since it would be necessary to apply a colored composition very precisely and to prevent it from migrating during the leave-in time. This step is difficult for a very small area and becomes unfeasible if it is desired to treat a large area of the head of hair in this way.
  • the present invention aims to meet all or some of the aforementioned requirements.
  • the invention relates, according to one of its aspects, to a method for the cosmetic treatment of human keratinous materials, comprising the steps that consist in :
  • a photocleavable function in particular chosen from carbamate, carbonate or ester functions
  • the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention may be a method for making up and/or caring for human keratinous materials.
  • the keratinous materials treated may be chosen from: the skin, lips, nails, and keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, eyelashes and/or eyebrows.
  • photocleavable function should be understood to mean a function for which the covalent bond with the chromophore precursor is capable of disappearing under the effect of light radiation, in particular radiation having a wavelength between 280 and 450 nm.
  • the photochromic compounds according to the invention which may be photocleaved may be irreversible photochromic compounds.
  • the change of color obtained after photocleaving may be permanent.
  • the photochromic compounds according to the invention may undergo an irreversible change of color after light irradiation and photocleaving.
  • chromophore precursor should be understood to mean a group of atoms within the photochromic compound capable of producing a colored compound after photocleavage of said photochromic compound .
  • the production of the compound having a color different from the photochromic compound may take place just after the photocleavage or after one or more reaction (s) subsequent thereto, for example after an oxidation reaction, in particular in contact with air.
  • the chromophore precursor may, directly after photocleavage of the photochromic compound, produce a colored compound or, as a variant, develop into a colored compound after photocleavage of the photochromic compound followed by one or more oxidation reaction (s) .
  • the photochromic compound may be colorless before photocleavage .
  • the photocleavage reaction undergone by the photochromic compound according to the invention is an irreversible reaction.
  • the cosmetic treatment method described above advantageously makes it possible to generate an irreversible coloration and, consequently, a makeup look that has an excellent color hold over time.
  • the method according to the invention may, in addition, comprise a step of applying to the treated area, after step b) , a layer of photoprotective composition in order to prevent, or at the very least slow down, photocleavage by ambient light.
  • Said photoprotective composition may in particular have a screening power (as defined later on) greater than or equal to 2, preferably greater than or equal to 5, in the wavelength spectrum ranging from 280 to 450 nm.
  • the application of a photoprotective composition to the treated area may advantageously make it possible to limit the development of the areas not developed during step b) and therefore to help to maintain, over time, the visual appearance of a makeup look obtained by the method according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic composition may comprise an agent for screening out radiation having a wavelength between 280 and 450 nm, respectively a UV screening agent, giving it a screening power greater than or equal to 2, preferably greater than or equal to 5 with respect to radiation having a wavelength ranging from 280 to 450 nm, respectively from 290 to 400 nm.
  • the method according to the invention may, in addition, comprise after step a) and before the end of step b) , a step c) of penetration of the photochromic compound into the keratinous materials.
  • the cosmetic composition may comprise an effective amount of at least one propenetrating agent, in particular a solvent, a hydrotrope and/or an external stimulus, in particular an ultrasonic stimulus.
  • the penetration of the photochromic compound into the keratinous materials may advantageously make it possible to provide makeup that is less sensitive to rubbing, thus improving the wear property thereof and reducing the staining phenomenon.
  • the compound having a color different from the photochromic compound may be produced after:
  • the content of photochromic compound within the cosmetic composition may be between 0.001 and 10%, preferably between 0.1 and 5%, more preferably still between 0.5 and 3%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present invention relates, according to another of its aspects, to a method for caring for human keratinous materials, in particular the skin, comprising the steps that consist in:
  • a cosmetic composition comprising a photochromic compound, said photochromic compound comprising:
  • ⁇ a photocleavable function in particular chosen from carbamate, carbonate or ester functions, and
  • said compound of different color being, in addition, capable of exerting a care action, in particular bacteriostatic action, with respect to said blemish.
  • the present invention thus makes it possible, for example, to provide a method for caring for acne, eczema or urticaria.
  • the method described above may comprise, before step a) , a step of locating the blemish of the keratinous materials .
  • This step may be entirely carried out by the user, who, for example, using a mirror, locates a skin pimple to be treated.
  • the photochromic compound may be applied generously, exceeding the pimple to be treated; the irradiation is on the other hand limited to the areas to be treated, so that the chromophore develops only where a bacteriostatic action should be exerted.
  • the chromophore is for example a methylene blue.
  • the irradiator may be manipulated by the user and manually controlled by the latter.
  • the user may use an electronic device comprising a sensor capable, especially by analysis of colorimetric differences, of locating said blemish.
  • This device may, in addition, comprise an application means that makes it possible to apply the cosmetic composition as described above.
  • the irradiation of the cosmetic composition applied may be carried out directly by the device if the latter is equipped with an irradiator.
  • the present invention relates, according to another of its aspects, to a cosmetic kit for carrying out a cosmetic treatment of human keratinous materials, comprising :
  • a cosmetic composition comprising a photochromic compound, said photochromic compound comprising : • a photocleavable function, in particular chosen from carbamate, carbonate or ester functions, and
  • a light irradiator capable of delivering light radiation, in particular having a wavelength between 280 and 450 nm.
  • the kit defined above may, according to one exemplary embodiment, comprise, in addition, a photoprotective composition having in particular a screening power greater than or equal to 2, preferably greater than or equal to 5, in the wavelength spectrum ranging from 280 to 450 nm.
  • the light irradiator may have at least one, preferably all, of the following characteristics:
  • the light irradiator delivers radiation having a dominant wavelength between 280 and 450 nm
  • the light irradiator delivers radiation having a fluence between 0.1 mW/cm 2 and 1000 W/cm 2 , better still between 1 mW/cm 2 and 1000 W/cm 2 .
  • the light irradiator may be an addressable matrix imager, as described later on.
  • the present invention relates, according to another of its aspects, to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a photochromic compound comprising:
  • photochromic compound being chosen from the compounds of the following formula or the mesomeric form thereof, in salified or non-salified form:
  • the present invention relates, according to another of its aspects, to a method for the cosmetic treatment of human keratinous materials, comprising the steps that consist in:
  • a) providing a cosmetic composition comprising a photochromic compound, said photochromic compound comprising :
  • a photocleavable function in particular chosen from carbamate, carbonate or ester functions
  • step b) may be carried out whilst the cosmetic composition is still present in its packaging device.
  • the packaging device may comprise within it a light source, for example a UV lamp, which makes it possible to produce irradiation capable of photocleaving the photochromic compound .
  • the cosmetic composition is first applied to a support, different from the keratinous materials to be treated, then is subjected, once on this support, to the irradiation that enables the photocleavage.
  • the cosmetic composition is then applied from the support by transfer to the keratinous materials during step c) .
  • the irradiation may produce a reversed image on the support in order to take into account the transfer .
  • the present invention relates, according to another of its aspects, to a method of making up human keratinous materials with a light-sensitive makeup, comprising the steps that consist in:
  • a photocleavable function in particular chosen from carbamate, carbonate or ester functions
  • the radiation being applied in a spatially non-uniform manner to the made-up area in order to produce a pattern after photocleavage of the photochromic compound.
  • the radiation may in particular be applied using an addressable matrix imager.
  • the present invention relates, according to another of its aspects, to a method of making up the skin or lips with a light-sensitive makeup, comprising the steps that consist in:
  • ⁇ a photocleavable function in particular chosen from carbamate, carbonate or ester functions, and
  • the present invention relates, according to another of its aspects, to a method of making up the integuments, in particular the nails or hair, comprising the steps that consist in:
  • a photocleavable function in particular chosen from carbamate, carbonate or ester functions
  • the present invention relates, according to yet another of its aspects, to a method of preparing a cosmetic composition, comprising the steps that consist in :
  • a) providing a cosmetic composition comprising a photochromic compound, said photochromic compound comprising :
  • a photocleavable function in particular chosen from carbamate, carbonate or ester functions
  • the cosmetic composition b) irradiating the cosmetic composition with light radiation, in particular radiation having a wavelength between 280 and 450 nm, so as to photocleave the photochromic compound and produce a compound of different color.
  • the photochromic compound according to the invention may be chosen from the compounds of formula (I) below or mesomeric forms thereof, in salified or non- salified form:
  • Ri, R'i, R2, R3, R4, R'3, R'4, which are identical or different, represent, independently of one another:
  • Ci-Cio alkyl radical optionally substituted Ci-Cio alkyl radical; an optionally substituted Ci-Cio alkoxy radical ;
  • R 3 , R' 3/ R4 R'4 radicals forming optionally, with the carbon atoms bearing them, a benzene ring or a heterocycle, saturated or unsaturated, comprising one or more heteroatoms chosen from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, optionally substituted by at least one optionally substituted C 1 -C 10 alkyl radical or an optionally substituted C 1 -C20 aryl radical;
  • Ri, R'i, R2 radicals forming optionally, with the carbon atoms bearing them, a benzene ring or a heterocycle, saturated or unsaturated, comprising one or more heteroatoms chosen from oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, optionally substituted by at least one optionally substituted Ci-Cio alkyl radical or an optionally substituted C 1 -C20 aryl radical;
  • A represents:
  • a saturated or unsaturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 20 ring members and comprising at least one heteroatom chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur;
  • R 5 represents:
  • X represents a heteroatom chosen from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen;
  • an alkyl radical is linear, branched or cyclic. * an alkyl radical or the alkyl part of a radical is said to be "substituted" when it comprises at least one substituent chosen from the groups:
  • alkylcarbonyl groups it being possible for said alkyl radicals to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a saturated or unsaturated heterocycle having 5 or 6 ring members, optionally comprising at least one other heteroatom different or not from nitrogen and/or a carbonyl group,
  • an aryl radical or the aryl part of a radical is said to be "substituted" when it comprises at least one substituent borne by a carbon atom, chosen from: an optionally substituted Ci-Cio, preferably C 1 -C6 alkyl radical;
  • an amino radical substituted by one or more identical or different C 1 -C6 alkyl groups optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl, C 1 -C6 alkoxy, amino, mono (C 1 -C6) alkylamino or di (C 1 -C6) alkylamino or (C 1 -C6) alkylcarbonyl groups, it being possible for said alkyl radicals to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a saturated or unsaturated heterocycle having 5 or 6 ring members, optionally comprising at least one other heteroatom different or not from nitrogen and/or a carbonyl group,
  • an acylamino (-NR-COR') radical in which the R radical is a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted C 1 -C6 alkyl radical and the R' radical is an optionally
  • R radicals which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted C 1 -C6 alkyl radical; an alkylsulfonylamino
  • R'S0 2 -NR- in which the R radical represents a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted C 1 -C6 alkyl radical and the R' radical represents an optionally
  • the photochromic compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (I) below or mesomeric forms thereof, in salified or non-salified form:
  • Ri, R'i, R2, R3, R'3, R4, R'4, which are identical or different, represent, independently of one another:
  • A represents:
  • R 5 represents:
  • X represents a heteroatom chosen from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen;
  • the photochromic compound according to the invention is chosen from the compounds of formula ( ⁇ ') below or mesomeric forms thereof, in salified non-salified form:
  • Ri and R 4 which are identical or different, represent, independently of one another:
  • Ci-Cio alkyl radical an optionally substituted Ci-Cio alkyl radical; an optionally substituted Ci-Cio alkoxy radical ;
  • a saturated or unsaturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 20 ring members and comprising at least one heteroatom chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur;
  • R 5 represents:
  • X represents a heteroatom chosen from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen;
  • the photochromic compound is chosen from the compounds of formula ( ⁇ ') below or mesomeric forms thereof, in salified or non-salified form:
  • Ri and R 4 which are identical or different, represent, independently of one another:
  • Ci-Cio alkyl radicals an amino radical bearing one or two, identical or different, radicals chosen from optionally substituted Ci-Cio alkyl radicals, it being possible for said alkyl radicals to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocycle having 5 to 10 ring members, optionally comprising at least one other heteroatom different or not from nitrogen; optionally substituted C6 _ Cio aryl radicals; Ci-Cio alkoxycarbonyl radicals; optionally substituted C6-C20 aryloxy radicals; optionally substituted C2-C 1 0 acyl radicals; C 1 -C 1 0 alkoxycarbonyl radicals; optionally substituted arylcarbonyl radicals; trihalocarbonyl radicals with the halogen atom chosen from chlorine or fluorine;
  • A represents:
  • C 1 -C6 alkyl radicals optionally substituted by at least one halogen, at least one hydroxyl group, at least one optionally substituted amino group, at least one C 1 -C6 alkoxy group, at least one (Ci-Ce) alkylthio group, at least one carboxy group;
  • R 5 represents:
  • Ci-Cio alkyl radical * an optionally substituted Ci-Cio alkyl radical; * an optionally substituted C6-C20 aryl radical;
  • X represents a heteroatom chosen from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen;
  • a depending on the valency of X, is equal to 0 or 1.
  • the photochromic compound according to the invention is chosen from the compounds of formula (I'') below or mesomeric forms thereof, in salified or non-salified form:
  • Ci-Cio alkyl radical an optionally substituted Ci-Cio alkyl radical; an optionally substituted Ci-Cio alkoxy radical ;
  • an amino radical an amino radical bearing one or two, identical or different, radicals chosen from optionally substituted Ci-Cio alkyl radicals or optionally substituted C6-C20 aryl radicals ;
  • a saturated or unsaturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 20 ring members and comprising at least one heteroatom chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur;
  • R 5 represents:
  • X represents a heteroatom chosen from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen;
  • a depending on the valency of X, is equal to 0 or 1.
  • the photochromic compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (I'') below or mesomeric forms thereof, in salified or non-salified form:
  • X Ri and R 4 which are identical or different, represent, independently of one another:
  • Ci-Cio alkyl radicals an amino radical bearing one or two, identical or different, radicals chosen from optionally substituted Ci-Cio alkyl radicals, it being possible for said alkyl radicals to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocycle having 5 to 10 ring members, optionally comprising at least one other heteroatom different or not from nitrogen; optionally substituted C6 _ Cio aryl radicals; Ci-Cio alkoxycarbonyl radicals; optionally substituted C6-C20 aryloxy radicals; optionally substituted C2-C 1 0 acyl radicals; C 1 -C 1 0 alkoxycarbonyl radicals; optionally substituted arylcarbonyl radicals; trihalocarbonyl radicals with the halogen atom chosen from chlorine or fluorine;
  • A represents:
  • R 5 represents:
  • X represents a heteroatom chosen from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen;
  • a depending on the valency of X, is equal to 0 or 1.
  • the photochromic compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (I'') below or mesomeric forms thereof, in salified or non-salified form:
  • Ri and R 4 which are identical or different, represent, independently of one another:
  • A represents:
  • R 5 represents:
  • X represents a heteroatom chosen from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen;
  • the photochromic compound may in particular be chosen from the compounds of formula below or the mesomeric form alified form:
  • the compound of different color that is derived from the photochromic compound according to the invention may be produced after:
  • the oxidizing agent may, for example, be chosen from oxygen from the air or aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution optionally in combination with oxidation catalysts such as, for example, manganese.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises the oxidizing agent within it.
  • the oxidizing agent may be brought into contact with the cosmetic composition during and/or after the step of irradiation of the latter.
  • the compound having a color different from the photochromic compound it is possible for the compound having a color different from the photochromic compound to be produced after:
  • the user may apply the composition according to the invention to the keratinous materials, irradiate this composition, for example so as to form a pattern, then leave the thus irradiated composition in the open air so as to obtain, by conversion in contact with the ambient air, the compound of different color derived from the photochromic compound, and thus to produce the light- sensitive makeup look.
  • the method according to the invention may, in addition, comprise, after step a) and before the end of step b) , a step c) of penetration of the photochromic compound into the keratinous materials.
  • the composition may comprise an effective amount of at least one propenetrating agent, such as a solvent and/or a hydrotrope.
  • the solvent may, for example, be chosen from alkanes, especially isododecane, alcohols and ethers, especially glycerol and glycol ethers, organic carbonates and especially propylene carbonate, volatile solvents such as for example volatile linear C7-C14 alkanes in particular those described in the patent applications by Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO 2008/155059 and especially undecane/tridecane, or dodecane/tetradecane and linear or cyclic volatile silicones having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • alkanes especially isododecane
  • alcohols and ethers especially glycerol and glycol ethers
  • organic carbonates and especially propylene carbonate organic carbonates and especially propylene carbonate
  • volatile solvents such as for example volatile linear C7-C14 alkanes in particular those described in the patent applications by Cognis
  • hydrophile is understood to mean a molecule capable of interacting with a compound in order to increase its solubility in an aqueous medium.
  • the hydrotrope may, for example, be chosen from: "short" C6 to Ci2 aromatic alcohols, for example benzyl alcohol, phenylethanol , phenoxyethanol or mixtures thereof .
  • an external stimulus for example an ultrasonic stimulus, or a softener, for example glycerol.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention may be presented in various galenical forms depending on the applications and the nature of its constituents.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention contains a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with the keratinous materials intended to receive it such as the skin, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes and eyebrows, the mucous membranes and the semi-mucous membranes, and any other cutaneous zone of the body and face.
  • a cosmetically acceptable medium i.e. a medium that is compatible with the keratinous materials intended to receive it such as the skin, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes and eyebrows, the mucous membranes and the semi-mucous membranes, and any other cutaneous zone of the body and face.
  • said medium may comprise or be in the form of a suspension, a dispersion, a solution in a solvent or hydroalcoholic medium, optionally thickened or gelled; an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, or a multiple emulsion; a gel or a foam; a gel emulsion; a spray; a loose, compact, or cast powder; an anhydrous paste; or a film, inter alia.
  • the cosmetic composition may be applied by spraying, especially using an airbrush, by electrostatic spraying, by inkjet printing, by an application means such as a fine brush, a brush, a foam, a flocked tip having capillary retention, a felt, a ceramic, a comb, a sponge, the finger or by transfer.
  • the composition may be packaged in a container made of glass or made of a rigid or flexible thermoplastic, for example equipped with a screw cap or snap-fit cap, which is preferably opaque- walled, the container preferably being equipped with a label or printing giving information regarding its contents .
  • any part of the body that is normally made up may receive a light-sensitive makeup in accordance with the invention, for example the nails, eyelashes, hair, skin and in particular that of the face, for example the cheeks, the forehead, the lips or eye contour, the neck, the chest or the legs.
  • a light-sensitive makeup for example the nails, eyelashes, hair, skin and in particular that of the face, for example the cheeks, the forehead, the lips or eye contour, the neck, the chest or the legs.
  • Light-sensitive makeup may be used to camouflage a skin blemish.
  • Light-sensitive makeup may optionally repeat a pattern from clothing or an accessory worn by the user, for example a pattern on a piece of jewelry, a purse, eyeglasses, shoes, a piece of furniture, a personal digital assistant (PDA), or a cell phone.
  • PDA personal digital assistant
  • sale of such clothing or such an accessory may be accompanied by the provision of a file or an internet link that allows a light-sensitive makeup look to be created that coordinates with the accessory or clothing .
  • the file or internet link may provide access to the data necessary for producing an image that has been designed or selected in order to coordinate with the clothing or accessory. As an example, it may repeat all or part of the patterns or it may complete them.
  • FIG. 1 is a diagrammatic and fragmentary view of an example of a system, according to the invention, for processing the light-sensitive makeup ;
  • Figure 2 illustrates how the zone to be treated is held during light irradiation
  • FIG. 2A illustrates the formation of a pattern within a pixellated image
  • Figures 7 to 10 and 10A illustrate different examples of addressable matrix imagers using several technologies ;
  • Figures 14A to 14C and 15A to 15C show examples of the progress of light-sensitive makeup
  • the or each composition suitable for use in implementing the invention may be applied in the form of a powder, fluid, spray, or film.
  • the fluid may have different rheologies. It may, for example, be a block of product that spreads when rubbed onto keratinous material, or it may be a liquid.
  • the layer of cosmetic composition of the invention or optionally photoprotective composition, and rather the photoprotective composition layer, may be applied in the form of a dry or nearly dry powder.
  • the or each composition may optionally be in the form of a pre-formed film.
  • the second layer is preferably applied without deteriorating the first layer that has already been applied.
  • Application may also be carried out using a printer, for example an inkjet printer, using an apparatus that is brought into contact with the zone to be treated, and optionally that is moved over it.
  • a printer for example an inkjet printer
  • any spray technique may be used, for example spraying by means of a propellant gas, an airbrush, or electrostatic or piezoelectric spraying.
  • the application may also be carried out by transfer, using a support sheet carrying at least one of the compositions, or even the various layers to be formed. The transfer may be accomplished by pressure, by heat, and/or by using a solvent deposited on the support sheet and/or keratinous material that are to be treated in accordance with the invention.
  • the application may be carried out manually or in an automatic manner, e.g. using a manipulator arm.
  • Each layer may be applied after drying any layer that precedes it.
  • the application may be made using applicators, possibly single use applicators, comprising an application member loaded with composition to be applied.
  • compositions may be applied at a point of sale, in a beauty salon, or in the home, inter alia.
  • composition may be packaged before use into any suitable receptacle.
  • compositions may be applied after verifying that the intensity of the ambient light is not prejudicial to the quality of the light-sensitive makeup look. Verification may be carried out using a warning device that alerts the user if the ambient light contains UV or near UV radiation that is too strong, for example with a fluence greater than or equal to 0.1 mW/cm 2 or 0.5 mW/cm 2 , the threshold being adjustable if necessary.
  • a warning device may be autonomous or integrated with a packaging device or a device for application of the cosmetic composition of the invention, or even a packaging device or device for application of a photoprotective composition.
  • the information delivered by the warning device may also be useful for selecting a cosmetic composition of the invention, a photoprotective composition, and/or a composition serving as a base layer amongst a plurality of compositions, depending on the level of the UV or near UV radiation.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention and the composition intended to form the coating layer or the base layer or the photoprotective layer may be in a variety of forms, for example creams, gels, liquids, in the form of compositions to be spread with the hand or using an applicator, for example a roll-on.
  • the composition may be applied by moving a block of composition in contact with the keratinous material, such as a lipstick, for example. Further, the composition may be applied by spraying using an aerosol can, a pump bottle, or an electrostatic, piezoelectric, or airbrush spray device.
  • composition may be in dry form, such as a powder, which may be applied with a brush or paintbrush if required.
  • System for processing light-sensitive makeup
  • the light-sensitive makeup look or light-sensitive treatment may be created using a system for processing light-sensitive makeup or light-sensitive treatment 1 comprising an irradiator 3 comprising at least one light source 2, as may be seen diagrammatically in Figure 1.
  • the image may be defined by a mask or a negative disposed in the path of the light traveling to the zone to be treated, and optionally in contact with the zone to be treated.
  • the irradiator preferably comprises one or more imagers 4 for forming at least one image at a distance on the zone to be treated Z.
  • the imager or imagers may use a mask or a negative and optics for projection on the zone to be treated.
  • the negative may be a UV negative that allows an image to be formed in UV or near UV light.
  • the source 2 may comprise any type of luminous element, for example an incandescent lamp, a halogen lamp, a discharge lamp, and/or an electroluminescent element, in particular one or more light-emitting diodes (LEDs) , organic LEDs (OLEDs) or other electroluminescent technologies.
  • luminous element for example an incandescent lamp, a halogen lamp, a discharge lamp, and/or an electroluminescent element, in particular one or more light-emitting diodes (LEDs) , organic LEDs (OLEDs) or other electroluminescent technologies.
  • LEDs light-emitting diodes
  • OLEDs organic LEDs
  • the irradiator 3 may comprise a plurality of sources in order to emit in the UV or near UV and also in the visible, in particular the near-UV visible.
  • the irradiator comprising the light source or sources and the imager or imagers is capable of emitting selectively in the UV or near UV and in the visible .
  • Changing a projection of an image in visible light to a projection of an image in UV light may be accomplished by changing the source by using a movable mirror, by using a semi-transparent surface, by adding or removing a filter, and/or by using a frequency doubler or tripler, for example.
  • the makeup system may comprise a computer 10 that may be associated with a user interface 11 comprising, for example, a keyboard, a mouse, a touch screen, a voice recognition engine, a graphics tablet, a joystick, and/or a touch pad; this list is not limiting.
  • a user interface 11 comprising, for example, a keyboard, a mouse, a touch screen, a voice recognition engine, a graphics tablet, a joystick, and/or a touch pad; this list is not limiting.
  • the computer 10 may comprise a microcomputer and, more generally, any computing means, analog and/or digital, produced using microcontrollers, microprocessors, and/or programmable logic arrays, for example .
  • the computer 10 may be produced in the form of one or more appliances, and when an electronic imager is used, where appropriate the imager may carry out all or some of the computations.
  • the computer 10 may also be associated with a display means 12 that is, for example, a color screen, for example of the LCD, plasma, OLED or cathode ray type, optionally a touch screen. As described below, this display means 12 may be used to display the treated zone during treatment, enabling the treatment to be controlled and/or a simulation to be displayed .
  • the computer 10 may also be associated with data storage means 13, for example a hard disk, a magnetic tape, an optical disk, and/or flash memory, the data storage means possibly being integrated into the computer 10, the irradiator 3, and/or at least partially remote in an external data storage system.
  • data storage means 13 for example a hard disk, a magnetic tape, an optical disk, and/or flash memory, the data storage means possibly being integrated into the computer 10, the irradiator 3, and/or at least partially remote in an external data storage system.
  • the computer 10 may be associated with a network interface 14 that serves, for example, to download data pertaining to light-sensitive makeup or to cause data concerning the light-sensitive makeup that is being applied or has been applied to be transmitted to third parties or to a server.
  • a network interface 14 serves, for example, to download data pertaining to light-sensitive makeup or to cause data concerning the light-sensitive makeup that is being applied or has been applied to be transmitted to third parties or to a server.
  • the computer 10 may advantageously control the source or sources producing the light used to form the image, so that the image is formed with a pre-defined illuminant.
  • the imager is advantageously an electronic addressable matrix imager as is described below, to which the computer may send data in order to cause a pre- defined image to be projected onto the zone Z to be treated .
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be provided with at least one optical and/or electronic system enabling the image to be focussed manually or automatically, and advantageously with means to prevent movements .
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may comprise means for keeping the person still, meaning that movement and fuzzy results may be avoided.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be configured to detect that the face is relaxed, and to control the imager as a function of that detection.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup 1 may comprise a flat portion or it may follow the shape of a part of the body and that part may be placed against the zone to be treated.
  • system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may comprise a system for rectifying movements, e.g. of the same type as those used to stabilize images in still or motion picture cameras.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may comprise a means 8 for immobilizing the individual to be treated, in the form of a chin rest, as may be seen in Figure 2.
  • the irradiator 3 is portable and may be fastened on a mount carried by the individual to be treated, in order to illuminate an area of the face, for example .
  • the system for processing the light sensitive makeup 1 may comprise an optical acquisition device 16 that, in one implementation of the invention, may transmit data to the computer 10 so as to cause it to propose a light-sensitive makeup look and/or so as to control the production thereof, as is described in detail below.
  • the optical acquisition device 16 may advantageously have a viewing axis that is substantially parallel to the direction of projection of the image.
  • the optical acquisition device may be monopixel or multipixel, and it may receive the light emitted by the imager directly or it may receive the light reflected by the zone Z to be treated.
  • the optional optical acquisition device, the irradiator, the optional computer, and the optional view screen may be produced in the form of separate elements or they may be integrated in the same casing.
  • the irradiator and the optical acquisition device may advantageously be integrated in the same casing or they may be fastened together by other means.
  • the view screen may be fastened to the back of the casing of the irradiator or integrated into the casing.
  • the optical acquisition device comprises an internal lighting means for close-up acquisition .
  • the casing of the irradiator may also be movable and may be applied to the skin, for example, or it may be held in the hand.
  • the casing of the irradiator may, for example, be placed on a table. The face may then be moved close to be placed on the casing, e.g. by leaning.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be provided with means for detecting opening or closing of the eyes and/or the mouth in order to stop or not begin irradiation if the eyes and/or the mouth are open.
  • the optical acquisition device 16 may provide an image that is analyzed for this purpose by the computer 10.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be configured to identify the face and the imager may be controlled as a function at least of this identification.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup is advantageously designed to allow a user to evaluate progress of the light-sensitive makeup, visually or otherwise .
  • the system for processing the light- sensitive makeup may include a window allowing direct viewing of the zone being treated during irradiation, this viewing being carried out, where appropriate, through a UV screen.
  • the light may be emitted from an offset position and optical fibers or at least one mirror or a prism, for example, may be used to direct the light and focus the radiation on the zone to be treated.
  • Figure 3 is a diagram showing part of a system for processing the light-sensitive makeup that comprises two imagers 4a and 4b, respectively emitting ultraviolet light and visible light, towards the zone Z to be treated.
  • a window 403 is provided between these imagers 4a and 4b, to allow observation of the zone Z during treatment .
  • the viewing zone may also be offset using a mirror 404 or any other optical system, for example optical fibers or a prism, as may be seen in Figure 4.
  • the treated zone Z may be viewed on a screen that may be placed on the irradiator or that may be offset.
  • Figure 5 illustrates the possibility of producing the irradiator 3 by offsetting the light beam directed towards the zone Z to be treated by using mirrors 18, which allows the user to observe the treated zone Z through a window 20 of the irradiator.
  • Figure 6 illustrates the possibility of producing the irradiator 3 with two light sources 2a and 2b respectively emitting in the UV and in the visible.
  • the irradiator shown in Figure 6 comprises a color filter 302, for example a green filter, placed in front of the source 2b, adjustable collimation optics 303, and a movable mirror 304.
  • the irradiator 3 in this example allows a negative 308 to be placed in the optical path.
  • the adjustable collimation optics 303 causes the image of the negative to appear at a certain distance from the optical outlet of the irradiator 3, for example at about twenty centimeters.
  • the irradiator 3 is provided with two switches 306 and 307. The first actuates the sources 2a and 2b.
  • the movable mirror 304 is disposed so that only visible light is directed towards the optical outlet for a given position of the second switch. Actuating the switch moves the movable mirror, for example by activating a micromotor or an electromagnet, and the UV irradiation is then directed towards the negative 308.
  • the system for processing light-sensitive makeup advantageously comprises an electronic addressable matrix imager.
  • an addressable matrix imager is suitable for projecting a pixellated image with a resolution of more than 10 by 10 pixels, preferably more than 10 by 100 pixels.
  • the image formed on the zone to be treated is formed by pixels that are on or off, optionally each at a pre-defined gray level.
  • Figure 2A shows a detail of Figure 2 where the light-sensitive makeup P that is produced consists of a lip outline.
  • Figure 2A shows the placement of the various pixels of the projected image; only the pixels corresponding to the outline to be produced have been switched on. Development of the cosmetic composition of the invention matches the state of the pixels.
  • the light leaving the addressable matrix imager may be monochromatic or multichromatic; preferably, the addressable matrix imager is capable of selectively emitting in the UV or near UV and also in the visible beyond the near UV, the light emitted in the visible possibly being white light or a colored light, optionally monochromatic light.
  • the computer 10 may determine the digital image on the basis of which the electronic imager is controlled, in particular the gray level of each pixel, and optionally also the dominant wavelength of the light at each pixel.
  • DLP digital light processing
  • TEXAS INSTRUMENTS which uses a DMD (digital micromirror device) chip composed of thousands of micromirrors of orientations that are individually controllable by using an electric pulse, and depending on their orientation they may optionally reflect an incident beam of light in order to transmit or not transmit it to the optical outlet of the imager.
  • the image to be projected is formed on the matrix of mirrors.
  • the gray levels in each pixel (for example 256 levels) may be controlled by adjustment of the duty cycle.
  • Figure 7 shows an example of an electronic imager 4 produced using this technology, using a DMD chip with reference numeral 111.
  • the chip may be fastened on a platen 112 that may also include a processor 113 to control the chip, and also an optional memory 114.
  • the chip is shown on the same platen as the processor 113 and the memory 114, but these items may be placed elsewhere.
  • the imager 4 shown in Figure 7 receives light from a source 2 that may be a source capable of emitting both in the UV and/or in the visible or a source capable of emitting selectively in the visible or in the UV.
  • the source 2 may be a halogen lamp emitting in the
  • UV and visible spectra a discharge lamp, or one or more LEDs that are capable of emitting in the UV and of emitting white light, or light of a given color, for example .
  • the imager 4 may include optics 118,
  • the imager 4 may have a filter wheel 30 that intersects the light beam between the condensation optics 118 and the focusing optics 119, for example.
  • the chip receives UV or visible light that is then directed towards the optical outlet.
  • the irradiator in the variation of Figure 8 uses a plurality of DMD chips fastened on a prism that divides the incident light from the source 2 into at least two beams with different dominant wavelengths, for example respectively in the UV or near UV and in the visible.
  • the light beams reflected by the DMD chips are projected towards the zone to be treated.
  • the DMD chip associated with the UV or near UV beam and the chip associated with the beam of visible light either UV light or visible light or possibly both at once may be projected onto the zone to be treated; when development takes place relatively slowly, this may be useful in order to be able to visually monitor the proper positioning of the light acting to carry out the development.
  • the irradiator may also use liquid crystal display (LCD) technology.
  • the source 2 is directed onto dichroic mirrors 125 that generate at least two light beams with different dominant wavelengths, one of said beams having a dominant wavelength in the UV or near UV and the other in the visible, for example.
  • the beams are directed by the mirrors 125 and 126 towards the LCD matrix screens 127 on which the image to be projected is formed, producing monochrome images directed towards a system of prisms 128, enabling the image to be sent via the projection optics 120 to the surface to be treated.
  • the light emitted is in the visible region or in the UV region.
  • the irradiator 3 illustrated in Figure 10 comprises an LCD matrix screen 132 and a source 2 that illuminates the screen 132.
  • the image formed thereon is projected onto the zone to be treated by means of the projection optics 120.
  • the source 2 is capable of selectively emitting in the UV or in the visible.
  • the screen 132 may replace the negative 308 of the example of Figure 6.
  • the projection system may also be based on liquid crystal on silicon (LCOS) technology.
  • LCD technology is termed transmissive because the light passes through an LCD screen, while DLP technology is termed reflective since the light is reflected by the micromirrors of the DMD chip.
  • LCOS technology the mirrors of the DMD chips are replaced by a reflective surface covered with a layer of liquid crystals that may be switched between a light-passing state and a light-blocking state. By modulating the frequency at which the liquid crystals are turned on and off, the gray level of a pixel may be varied.
  • the arrangements illustrated in Figures 7 and 8 may be used, by replacing the DMD chips with LCOS chips.
  • Figure 10A shows an LCOS chip irradiator.
  • a system of lenses 901 may be disposed between the source 2, e.g. a UV lamp, and a semi-transparent mirror 903. This reflects light from the source to the chip 900.
  • the chip reflects the light again to a focusing system 120 that projects the pixellated image onto the zone to be treated.
  • the image delivered by the addressable matrix imager comprises a matrix of pixels of gray levels that are individually addressable, each gray level, for example, being coded into at least 4 bits, preferably 8 bits.
  • the light associated with each pixel may also be coded where appropriate.
  • the image to be projected may be supplied to the electronic imager in the form of a video signal complying with the VGA, SVGA, composite, HDMI, SVIDEO, YC B C R , optical video signal, or other standard, or in the form of a video or digital image file, e.g. a .jpeg, .pdf, .ppt, etc file.
  • a pre-defined color on the image in the file may control the quantity of UV or near UV, for example.
  • the electronic imager is advantageously produced so as to be able to change the nature of the light emitted without changing the image; as an example, the pixels of the image retain their gray levels and only the emission spectrum of the source used upstream changes. This enables an image to be visualized on the zone to be treated and then the zone may be developed, simply by modifying the emission spectrum of the source.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup is preferably provided with a means for selecting the projected image. This may be accomplished by selecting from a library of images, possibly by displaying a succession of images from said library and the user selecting a displayed image.
  • the images may be stored in the digital or photographic form, for example in the data storage means.
  • the image library may be included in the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup, or it may be downloaded.
  • a tailored image is used starting from the individual intended to receive the light-sensitive makeup, or from a model such as a celebrity or an individual of given style, the images possibly being derived from made-up or non made-up persons. It is also possible to use images derived from drawings, tables, sketches, or caricatures to generate the projected image.
  • the computer may have in its memory or may download at least one pictorial model in the form of lines or brush strokes, or even a single point or a series of lines, strokes, or points.
  • the image formed may be determined automatically as a function of the acquired image. This enables the projected image to be adapted to the morphology and/or to the color of the face.
  • the computer may correctly position the image intended to create the light-sensitive makeup look.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may thus be used in a method comprising the steps consisting in:
  • the image may be acquired using an optical acquisition device 16 that may be adapted to capture all or a portion of the face or any other treated zone of the body.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention • once the cosmetic composition of the invention has been applied to the eyelid zone, irradiating the pictorial model to be produced at the region of the eyelid zone; hence, the resulting light-sensitive makeup is formed at the correct location. Irradiation at the position of the zone to be treated may be carried out by lighting only the corresponding pixels, in a situation where the image is capable of covering a much more extensive zone when all of the pixels are lit. In order to benefit from better resolution, the treated zone may, for example, involve at least 2/3 of the total number of pixels of the image.
  • the computer may also modify the shape of the pictorial model in order to adapt it to the shape of the face.
  • the following steps may be carried out:
  • system for processing light-sensitive makeup may be provided with the following four functions:
  • ⁇ optionally, modifying the shape of the pictorial model to adapt it to the shape of the face
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may comprise means for acquiring the 3D shape of the face.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may comprise an optical acquisition device that is adapted to detect relief, by projecting fringes, for example, and/or it may be adapted to detect shine.
  • the pictorial model used is determined automatically. This choice may be made in a random manner or by using programmed logic that uses rules to optimize the appearance of the face, for example to fit in with a color harmony scheme or a natural harmony scheme for the face. Thus, for example, for a face with a ruddy complexion, it is possible to produce freckles.
  • the choice may also be made by applying logic to re ⁇ establish symmetry for faces with asymmetries and/or by applying light and shade to cause a face that is too angular to be rendered rounder or vice versa, or to correct natural or unattractive proportions.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup proposes a plurality of pictorial models, leaving the user at liberty to select one.
  • These proposals may be expressed graphically, for example by display on a screen.
  • the proposed pictorial model may be superimposed on an image of the subject intended to receive the light sensitive makeup, or the model may be displayed on a screen describing the face by a diagram. Any interface that allows the user to select a pictorial model may be used.
  • the description of a pictorial model proposed to the user may be given verbally by describing the actions that the system for processing the light- sensitive makeup proposes to carry out.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be configured to automatically detect a skin blemish on the zone to be treated and the imager may be controlled as a function of the nature of the detected blemish .
  • the light-sensitive makeup system may be provided with particular recognition functions intended, for example, to recognize blemishes, for example:
  • the blemishes may be detected by image analysis and/or relief analysis.
  • the image analysis may be 3D image analysis.
  • the image analysis may include analysis of color and/or shine.
  • the makeup system for processing the light- sensitive makeup may also be provided with functions that allow a pictorial model to be computed or selected for the purpose of limiting the visibility of said blemishes.
  • pictorial models that may be mentioned are those intended to blur some portions that are detected as having blemishes and those intended to alter the outlines of certain parts, especially scars or asymmetries.
  • the user or a third person may define the pictorial model to be produced.
  • the user or the third person may transmit commands that are interpreted by the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup. These commands may be graphical and the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may comprise a man-machine interface of the touch screen type.
  • the user transmits makeup orders by designating, on the image of the face or on a diagram of the face, the zones on which a makeup line is to be produced.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be configured to interpret the instructions from the user, to adapt them to the topography of the face, and then to create the light- sensitive makeup look.
  • the commands may be descriptions, for example "fill the lip zone with red” or they may be intuitive, for example "eyelid makeup”.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup will then act, in a conventional or a specifically programmed manner, to interpret the default pictorial model that is to be used.
  • the commands may be programmed and the programs may be personalized.
  • the person who selects from the proposed pictorial models or who determines the pictorial models to be produced may be the person who is being made up or some other person, such as a professional makeup artist. Selection or production of the pictorial models may be made at the location where the light-sensitive makeup look is being created, or remotely.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be provided with communications means enabling the image of the zone for treatment to be communicated, for example the above-mentioned network interface 14.
  • the light-sensitive makeup system may optionally be provided with a means for capturing makeup looks from magazines or other media and of making pictorial models from them that could then be reproduced on the zone to be treated, for example a scanner or an RFID chip reader, the chip containing the description of the makeup look or an internet link allowing it to be downloaded.
  • This chip could be contained in packaging containing the composition or compositions to be used to create the light-sensitive makeup look or be contained in an article of clothing or other accessory with a particular pattern, which could be reproduced with light-sensitive makeup.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be configured to display a succession of many sorts of pictorial model, in the form of simulations, in order to allow a person to select the model to be reproduced from among them.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may offer the possibility of rapidly trying out many sorts of models, directly on the face. Thus, the person may find out on a real version whether the models will suit him or her. These models could be images projected in visible light onto the face, which do not develop the cosmetic composition of the invention.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may advantageously have several pre-recorded models in its memory in the storage means 13 and may memorize the pictorial models that it has been able to create. In this manner, the user may use or exchange the recorded pictorial models.
  • the pictorial model once a pictorial model has been selected, adaptation of the pictorial model to the topography of the face of the person and creation of the light-sensitive makeup by projecting the image are carried out automatically.
  • the time interval separating capture of the face and production of the image may be rendered relatively short, for example less than one second.
  • the person receiving the light-sensitive makeup or a third person may intervene while the operations are being carried out. Creating the makeup may then be slower than before.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be configured so as to allow the person or the third person to view the progress of the light-sensitive makeup, for example on the screen 12, in order to slow down or stop its progress.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may optionally regularly recapture the face in order to re-commence the operations of locking and adapting the pictorial model to the face, thereby eliminating any problems that might be caused by movement of the person during irradiation intended to develop the cosmetic composition of the invention.
  • each pictorial model may be determined, its effect may be estimated visually, then the next pictorial model may be selected and so on, thereby progressively constructing the light-sensitive makeup.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be configured to evaluate the pictorial models that are the most adapted to a face or part of a face by means of one or more specialized programs.
  • the light-sensitive makeup may be created by producing a first pictorial model, then by evaluating the face a second time to deduce therefrom the new pictorial model to be produced, and so on.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be configured to take an image, for example using the above-mentioned optical acquisition device, optionally extract a portion corresponding to the zone to be treated, and where appropriate to rectify this image to thereby improve the result once projected.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup used is preferably configured to allow the user, starting from an image projected on the face or any other zone to be treated, to rectify the shape, for example by enlarging, or shrinking in one or two dimensions.
  • the modifications may also be more complex.
  • the tools normally present in software for producing and editing images such as Photoshop® for example.
  • the image may be edited by feedback via the optical acquisition device; the computer will know the result of the projected image and automatically modify it until the desired result is obtained by means of the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup executing a program loop.
  • the light-sensitive makeup may be created by carrying out the steps consisting in:
  • the user and/or the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may monitor the progress of the light-sensitive makeup and may stop it changing once the desired result is achieved.
  • editing may be carried out to further refine the light-sensitive makeup, either at the time of light-sensitive making up or later on.
  • Irradiation may be interrupted then recommenced at least once.
  • the dominant wavelength and/or intensity of the irradiation may be modified before the desired appearance is achieved.
  • the rate of development of the cosmetic composition of the invention may be changed.
  • By adjusting the dominant wavelength it is possible to adjust the irradiation energy and/or the effect exerted on the photochromic compounds.
  • the whole of the image may be treated progressively, but it is also possible to treat the image portion-by- portion in a progressive manner, for example in an automatic, programmed, or programmable manner.
  • the light-sensitive makeup may be used to create several patterns in succession. At least one pattern that has achieved the desired appearance may stop being irradiated while at least one other pattern is still being irradiated.
  • the patterns are, for example, freckles, which may be created in succession.
  • a specific program may be executed to produce freckles, as can be seen in Figure 13.
  • the program may cause the freckles to appear, via suitable progressive irradiation, either from the center of the zone towards the outside of the zone ( Figures 13A to 13C) , or from a sparse distribution to a dense distribution ( Figures 14A to 14C) , or from a distribution of small freckles to a distribution of large freckles, or in a random manner (not shown) .
  • Irradiation may be sufficiently weak not to cause major development in the moment following its commencement .
  • the energy E of irradiation per second may be less than or equal to 0.5 E 0 , preferably 0.2 E 0 , where E 0 is the energy necessary per second to develop 80% of the cosmetic composition of the invention. It is possible for E ⁇ 0.2 E[). It is considered that 80% of the cosmetic composition of the invention has been developed when the color change ⁇ compared with the non-developed state corresponds to 80% of the maximum attainable color change.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be configured to analyze the color of the zone to be treated, then the result of this analysis may serve to automatically control the irradiation.
  • the color may be analyzed after application of the cosmetic composition of the invention and before the desired appearance has been achieved. This may, for example, allow light-sensitive making up to be stopped automatically when the desired appearance has been achieved.
  • the color may, for example, be measured by analyzing the color of the pixels of an image formed on the treated zone.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be configured to carry out an analysis of pre-defined regions of the image and the irradiation may be controlled by adjusting the intensity of the irradiation in the various zones observed, as a function of the color in the corresponding regions.
  • the irradiation is carried out with an addressable matrix imager, then the irradiation in multiple pixels of the treated zone may be monitored precisely.
  • the irradiation may be constant or variable. In particular, it may be fairly strong for a given time, termed the "bring-up" time, then be weakened for a "fine tune" phase.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be programmed to deliver the irradiation intermittently, an example being constant irradiation followed by a stop period, for example for a period of 30 seconds or less, and so on. The user may stop the process when satisfied.
  • the irradiation may be sufficiently slow to allow the user to see the color change, the irradiation changing, for example, at a rate of 3 or fewer units of E per second in CIE Lab space, for example approximately 2 units of E per second.
  • the system for processing the light sensitive makeup may be provided with a control member to adjust the speed and/or the amplitude of the reduction or increase of the irradiation, for example a button, sensor, joystick, voice control interface, or control pad, which may act on the intensity of the irradiation, in particular upstream from the imager.
  • a control member to adjust the speed and/or the amplitude of the reduction or increase of the irradiation, for example a button, sensor, joystick, voice control interface, or control pad, which may act on the intensity of the irradiation, in particular upstream from the imager.
  • the user may stop or throttle back the irradiation as desired in order to consider and/or observe the result.
  • the program enabling the change in the irradiation over time to itself be defined or specified by the user, for example in order to adjust the rate of increase or reduction of the irradiation.
  • the increase or reduction of the irradiation intensity does not necessarily cause a change in the shape or extent of the image.
  • electrical and/or optical systems that adjust the light flux produced, for example at least one filter, diaphragm, and/or polarizer, and/or a device for varying the electric power in order to control the source.
  • the intensity of the irradiation may also depend on the gray level of the pixels of the image .
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be configured to automatically determine a progressive illumination program as a function of the light-sensitive makeup to be produced. As an example, if the light-sensitive makeup on a given zone consists in producing a color with fairly low saturation, the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may propose and/or apply a program specifying weak illumination. If the light-sensitive makeup on another zone consists in producing an intense color, the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may propose and/or apply a program consisting in illuminating more strongly at first then illuminating less strongly, to allow the user to fine tune the results of light-sensitive making up.
  • the illumination carried out initially may be carried out with a fluence that is at least double that which is subsequently applied.
  • the system for processing the light- sensitive makeup may be based on a calculation of the dose to be applied in order to create the final light- sensitive makeup look and to apply a rule in order to deduce the illumination program therefrom. As an example, if it calculates that a dose of X J is required, it could rapidly apply 80% of X (over one second, for example) then apply the last 20% at 5% per second, for example .
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be provided with an optical acquisition device that allows the color of the skin or other keratinous material to be measured either at the beginning of irradiation or during making up. It may use this information to compute or modulate the progressive illumination. As an example, it may use this information in order to identify the time when illumination needs to be reduced or stopped.
  • the sensor or sensors for the optical acquisition device may be monochrome or polychrome, with monopixel or multipixel measurement.
  • Information representative of the progress of making up may be transmitted to the user in various manners, for example by displaying a value representative of the color of the light-sensitive makeup being created, or a value representative of the degree of completion of the process, for example as a percentage.
  • a color representing the measured color may also be displayed on the screen.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a plurality of photochromic compounds with maximum sensitivities at respective different wavelengths
  • one or more of said photochromic compounds may be selectively developed by adjusting the wavelength
  • a cosmetic composition of the invention comprising photochromic compounds which are capable of being developed by UV or near UV light which may be developed at different rates depending on the wavelength in the UV or near UV region, and by adjusting this UV or near UV wavelength, development of one photochromic compound may be favored over others.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup is provided with a system for simulating the change in the light- sensitive makeup look, in addition to or replacing a system for viewing the change in the light-sensitive makeup .
  • the user may observe this simulation and may use this to decide whether to slow down or stop the light-sensitive making up.
  • the light-sensitive makeup system may be configured to make it possible to simulate the result of making up after applying the cosmetic composition of the invention and before the desired appearance has been achieved.
  • the progress of the simulation may be linked to the progress of the irradiation on the zone to be treated.
  • a simulation of the change in the appearance of the light- sensitive makeup may be displayed on a screen and/or projected onto the treated zone when the irradiator used makes that possible.
  • the simulation may be projected in a light that does not cause the cosmetic composition of the invention to be developed, at least over a short period, long enough for the observer to decide how to continue the treatment.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup includes an electronic imager
  • it may be controlled as a function of a tool manipulated by the user, the computer being able to modify the projected image and/or the intensity of the irradiation as a function of a movement of the tool.
  • the tool may include a portion to be positioned in front of or on the zone to be treated or in front of or on a screen for viewing the zone to be treated.
  • the tool may also control the movement of a pointer on a screen for viewing the zone to be treated or within the image formed on the zone to be treated .
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be configured to allow the user to control the particular zones that are to be treated with progressive irradiation, and to this end to make use of display means that may, for example, comprise a touch screen via which the user may control progress of the irradiation by pressing a particular region of the screen. More preferably, the touch screen is sensitive to the intensity of the pressure exerted by the user, and the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup analyzes the pressure exerted on the screen and translates that pressure into the intensity of the light-sensitive makeup by controlling the intensity of the light and/or the duration of irradiation on the region corresponding to the zone to be treated. Thus, for example, a stronger pressure exerted on the touch screen is translated into an increased intensity of color.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may detect a tool placed on or in front of the touch screen, and the user may use the tool to adjust the light-sensitive makeup look .
  • the user may have several tools available, each provided with identification means, for example a bar code or an RFID chip, so that it is capable of being identified by the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup.
  • identification means for example a bar code or an RFID chip
  • each tool may be associated by the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup with a particular type of makeup.
  • the user will have a plurality of tools corresponding to lines of makeup that are of varying thickness and/or varying intensities of color, or even different colors of makeup.
  • the user takes the selected tool and may move it over the image on the display means in order to change the makeup look.
  • a makeup simulation may appear on the viewing screen and after any required validation by the user, the makeup look appearing on the display means may be automatically created by light-sensitive makeup by controlling the irradiator .
  • a layer of light-sensitive makeup is developed with the same simulation image as that projected in visible light.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be configured to transmit an image to the zone to be treated, for example the face, representing the simulation, leaving it up to the user to lock this image on the face, or even to modify it.
  • the same optics or a parallel optical system is used to transmit an image, which may differ from the preceding image only in that it is formed with UV light or near UV light, onto the same zone.
  • the mask, negative, or matrix of addressable pixels used to define the image does not need to have been modified when changing the illuminant from visible light to UV light.
  • a light-sensitive makeup system provided with a UV source and a visible source, is suitable for use with one or two imagers .
  • the image is obtained from a slide, it may be designed to allow an image to be produced both with the visible source and with the UV source.
  • the slide may be produced with a material that filters both UV and visible light.
  • a light source emitting both in the UV and in the visible and a UV or visible imager with, for example, a dichroic mirror, a movable mirror, or a filter to select the outgoing radiation;
  • the projected image may be restricted to an outline or to a few reference points.
  • the light-sensitive makeup then created may be inscribed within these points or this outline .
  • two reference points may be employed.
  • the user applies a layer of cosmetic composition of the invention.
  • the two points are projected in a visible wavelength that is incapable of producing a light-sensitive makeup effect, for example at a wavelength in the range 450 nm to 800 nm, and preferably in the range 500 nm to 700 nm.
  • the user positions these two points over the two corners of the lips. Once the positioning has been carried out, the UV irradiation forms an image of the lips included between these two points.
  • the visible image may be cropped, reduced, or limited to the reference points or left in the same state as it was during the stage of projection in the visible.
  • a cosmetic composition of the invention is applied to the zone to be treated.
  • the template may be an image comprising points and/or reference lines, as shown in Figure 11, which shows the lines defining the zones A, B, and C produced by making up.
  • an indicator is produced in the same way, for example an alphanumeric indicator, to inform the user about the composition and/or the applicator to be used in this zone.
  • the user may create the makeup look or other treatment as a function of the template that is thus developed. To this end, the user may use conventional makeup tools. The user may also use the template produced by the light-sensitive makeup to apply care products .
  • a diagnosis is carried out of zones requiring particular care, for example by image analysis and/or using one or more sensors that are sensitive to the condition of the skin, for example, and a map is produced of the treatment to be carried out, which map may be stored.
  • the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup is used to cause a template to appear on the face where the zones requiring care are developed in color, at least temporarily. The user may then apply the care product or products to the zones that have been shown up.
  • the user may position reference points on the face by light-sensitive makeup.
  • an appliance provided with means for reading the reference points may be used; it is preferably also capable of interpreting them if necessary.
  • the appliance may be provided with a multipixel sensor, internal lighting, and applicator means, for example an inkjet printing head.
  • the points represent a line, for example.
  • the user moves the appliance over the skin, which appliance is configured to analyze the surface optically.
  • the zone to be treated is defined by a closed outline, when the appliance determines that it crosses a line a first time, it starts to deposit a colored material, then when it crosses a line a second time, it stops depositing the colored material.
  • the points When they are connected, the points may represent a shape.
  • the appliance may be provided with means that may recognize these points and the corresponding shape.
  • the appliance may deposit a colored material in order to produce this shape. To this end, the appliance may start from a model that it causes to coincide with the points by carrying out geometrical corrections.
  • the deposited colored material may define a curve or a surface inscribed within a curve.
  • the curvature of the line and/or the surface may be homogeneous, randomly heterogeneous, or geometrically heterogeneous, i.e. comprising a repeating pattern.
  • the points present on the zone to be treated may define a code.
  • the appliance may be provided with means for interpreting the code corresponding to these points, and for applying a composition that is selected and/or applied in a manner that depends on the recognized code.
  • certain points are formed with a first pattern and others with a different pattern.
  • the appliance applies two different compositions or the same composition in different concentrations as a function of the pattern that is detected.
  • a photoprotective composition may be applied to the cosmetic composition of the invention once the desired appearance has been achieved.
  • This photoprotective composition may act as a screen to UV radiation when the irradiation that is used to develop the cosmetic composition of the invention is UV irradiation .
  • One or more optical agents may be used that provide the photochromic composition with a screening power F for solar radiation (290 nm to 400 nm) in the range 2 to 20, preferably in the range 4 to 10.
  • composition whose screening power is to be discerned is applied in an amount of 1.2 mg/cm 2 to a sanded polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plate (without UV screen) measuring 5 cm by 5 cm, 3 mm in thickness, with a roughness of 4.5 ⁇ 1 ym, from EUROPLAST.
  • PMMA polymethyl methacrylate
  • the plates are pre-treated with a deposit of 10 ⁇ 1 mg of Vaseline 145B.
  • composition may be deposited in 14 dots of product and spreading is carried out for 20 seconds using a finger, making zigzags and turning the plate by a quarter of a turn every 5 seconds.
  • a spectroradiometer for example a Labsphere
  • UV transmittance analyzer with an integrating sphere
  • T ( ⁇ ) is the ratio, for a given irradiation wavelength ⁇ , of the transmitted light energy over the incident light energy. 5 measurements are taken per plate (moving the plates) and the mean of these 5 measurements is taken.
  • the screening power F relative to solar UV radiation (290 nm to 400 nm) is given by the ratio of the following two integrals:
  • I ( ⁇ ) is a function representing the occurrence of each wavelength of the solar spectrum.
  • act as a screen to radiation with wavelength ⁇ means that the optical agent attenuates radiation with a wavelength ⁇ by at least an attenuation factor of 2, the measurement being carried out using an apparatus for measuring the absorption spectrum, restricting the irradiating light to an area with a wavelength ⁇ ⁇ 10 nm.
  • ⁇ ( ⁇ ) and ⁇ ( ⁇ ) are as defined above provides the attenuation factor at wavelength ⁇ .
  • the composition may have at least one range P of wavelengths in an interval ⁇ to ⁇ 2 where the irradiation is less screened, the screening power in this range being in the mean F i, 2 , with F/F i, 2 > 2, preferably F/F i, 2 > 5.
  • the width of the range P may be less than 80 nm, preferably less than 40 nm.
  • F%i %2 is defined by:
  • the photoprotective composition may be a glossing composition, an oily or emollient composition, a mattifying composition, a cream blusher, a powder blusher, a polish, or a finishing composition.
  • the photoprotective composition may comprise one or more compounds which enable the UV radiation to be reduced . UV screen
  • the UV screens may be selected from inorganic screens, in particular in particulate form and on a nanometric scale, and organic screens.
  • optical agent or agents may be hydrophilic or lipophilic.
  • the organic filters may be selected from anthranilate derivatives, cinnamic derivatives, salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, imidazolines, bis-benzoazolyls , benzoxazole derivatives, triazine derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, beta derivatives, beta diphenylacrylate, p-aminobenzoic derivatives, polymer screens and silicone screens described in application WO 93/04665, dimers derived from alpha-alkylstyrene, 4, 4-diarylbutadienes, and mixtures thereof .
  • hydrophilic screens may be selected from those described in the application EP-A-0 678 292, for example 3-benzylidene 2-camphor, especially Mexoryl SX ® .
  • lipophilic screens examples include dibenzoylmethane derivatives, described in publications FR 2 326 405, FR 2 440 933, EP 0 114 607, Parsol ® 1789 from Givaudan, Eusolex from Merck. It is also possible to mention 2-ethylhexyl a-cyano-b,b- diphenylacrylate, known as octocrylene and available under the trade name Uvinul N 539 from BASF.
  • a screen selected from the following may also be used as the optical agent: benzophenone-3 (oxybenzone) , benzophenone-4 (sulisobenzone) , benzophenone-8 (dioxybenzone) , bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT or Tinosorb S) , diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (Uvinul +) , ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, methyl anthranilate (meradimate) , (4-) methyl- benzylidene camphor (Parsol 5000), methylene bis- benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M) , para- aminobenzoic acid (PABA) , phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Ensul
  • the optical agent used may also be formed by diffusing particles such as titanium or zinc oxide nanopigments that are suitable for use as a screen, with various surface treatments depending on the selected medium.
  • the nanopigments have a typical mean dimension of 5 nm to 1000 nm.
  • the total concentration by weight of said optical agent (s) may lie in the range 0.001% to 30%, or even more with dry or near-dry formulas, relative to the weight of the photoprotective composition prior to application.
  • screens or combinations are used in the composition that act as a screen to radiation in the range from 320 nm to 400 nm, preferably in the range 320 nm to 420 nm.
  • the optical agent used in the photoprotective composition may be a thermally unstable photochromic coloration agent. This does not serve to create the light-sensitive makeup look, but rather to protect it in the event of exposure to too intense a light, for example in very strong sunshine or an artificial effect such as the illumination used in television studios, certain medical treatments, certain cosmetic treatments such as tanning booths, for example, flash photography, or certain festive venues.
  • the thermally unstable photochromic agent takes on its color during very intense illumination and, in a certain manner, it may limit the visibility of the underlying light-sensitive makeup. However, since the thermally unstable photochromic agent rapidly regains its colorless form once the very intense illumination has been stopped, this phenomenon is transient.
  • thermally unstable photochromic agents are used that lose at least half of their color in 60 seconds at 25°C in darkness.
  • inorganic thermally unstable photochromic agents are preferred.
  • the optical agent used in particular in order to attenuate UV or visible light, may be an optical agent forming a metal mirror or an optical agent based on a multilayer interfering structure or a diffraction grating .
  • optical agents that are suitable for use alone or as a complement to the optical agents listed above are optical agents that are capable of reflecting incident light. The reflection occurs at the interface between the reflective layer and the propagation medium for the light wave.
  • the material forming the reflective layer may have a refractive index of more than 1.5, if possible more than 1.8.
  • the optical agent may contain or be formed by a metal.
  • a layer of silver is formed on applying the photoprotective composition by reducing a silver salt or by applying a dispersion of silver nanoparticles .
  • the degree of reflection of the photoprotective composition may be more than 5%, and if possible more than 10%. Preferably, it is less than 50%, in order not to vitiate the light-sensitive makeup results.
  • the photoprotective composition may comprise a dispersion, which is either aqueous or ethanolic, of nanoparticles of silver, for example those from Nippon Paint that have a dimension of 10 nm to 60 nm depending on the sample and that are stabilized by a polymeric system. On drying, this stabilization does not prevent the particles from coming into contact and by means of these contacts of ensuring sufficient electrical conductivity to provide the final material with a reflective power close to that obtained with a silver mirror.
  • This interference structure filters light by means of a phenomenon of destructive interference between the light waves reflected by the various layers of the structure .
  • the multilayer structure is preferably selected so as to have a high transmission factor in the visible, so that it does not produce a marked color in the visible and so that it has the desired transparency.
  • the multilayer structure may comprise alternating layers of low and high refractive indices.
  • the refractive index difference between the layers of high and low index is 0.1 or more, preferably 0.15 or more, more preferably 0.6 or more.
  • the number of layers in the above-mentioned multi ⁇ layer structure is, for example, at least 2, more preferably 4 or 6, or even at least 12, which facilitates the production of a structure that is not very sensitive to incident light and that presents the required selectivity.
  • the multilayer structure may optionally be symmetrical and allow filtering of incident light irrespective of which is the principal face for light to enter the structure, as appropriate.
  • the material with a high refractive index may be mineral, for example titanium dioxide in the anatase or rutile form, an iron oxide, zirconium dioxide, zinc oxide, zinc sulfide, bismuth oxychloride, and mixtures thereof, or organic, being selected, for example, from: PEEK (polyetheretherketone) , polyimide, PVN (poly (2- vinylnaphthalene) ) , PVK (poly (N-vinyl carbazole) ) , PF (phenolformaldehyde resin) , PSU (polysulfone resin) , PaMes (poly (alpha-methylstyrene) ) , PVDC, (poly ( inylidene chloride)), MeOS (poly (4-methoxystyrene) ) , PS
  • polystyrene polystyrene
  • BPA bisphenol-A polycarbonate
  • PC polycarbonate resin
  • PVB poly (vinyl benzoate)
  • PET poly (ethyleneterephthalate)
  • PDAP poly (diallyl phthalate)
  • PPhMA poly (phenylmethacrylate)
  • SAN styrene/acrylonitrile copolymer
  • HDPE high density polyethylene
  • PVC poly (poly (vinyl chloride)
  • NYLON® POM (poly (oxymethylene) or polyformaldehyde)
  • PMA poly (methyl acrylate) ) , etc., and mixtures thereof.
  • the material with a low refractive index may be a mineral, for example selected from silicon dioxide, magnesium fluoride, aluminum oxide and mixtures thereof, or organic, for example selected from polymers such as polymethyl methacrylate or polystyrene, polyurethane and mixtures thereof.
  • the optical agent may comprise a diffracting structure, for example at least one diffraction grating, which may be a grating comprising a substantially repeating surface pattern so as to diffract light.
  • a diffracting structure for example at least one diffraction grating, which may be a grating comprising a substantially repeating surface pattern so as to diffract light.
  • the period of the grating determines the diffraction properties of the grating, inter alia.
  • the duty cycle of the diffraction grating may be selected to be unity.
  • the period of the diffraction grating in at least one direction is advantageously sufficiently low to reduce the risk of creating colored effects in the photoprotective composition.
  • the period of the grating is then advantageously selected so as not to diffract light in the visible region, especially in the range from 400 nm to 780 nm.
  • the maximum period of the grating serving to avoid diffraction orders in the visible may be determined at least approximately by the relationship:
  • ni and n 2 are the refractive indices of the media in incidence and transmission respectively, ni and n 2 may be taken to be 1.5 to a first approximation.
  • ⁇ 0°
  • the period is less than half.
  • a period for the grating of 270 nm or less is selected, preferably 140 nm or less.
  • the depth d of the grating and its period ⁇ may be selected by successive tests in order to obtain a transmission minimum in the UVA, for example.
  • Computation of the characteristics of the grating may be carried out vectorially, e.g. using the GSOLVER software from the GRATING SOLVER DEVELOPMENT COMPANY.
  • the layer or various layers used to produce the diffraction grating or gratings may optionally be deposited on a substrate of an organic or inorganic nature, which substrate may be used as is or may then undergo a dissolution treatment.
  • the structure of the grating or gratings may thus be etched either into the bulk of a material, or else after depositing a material onto an organic or inorganic substrate that is spherical or lamellar in shape.
  • Etching may be carried out so that diffraction of the light in the visible region is minimized, in order to reduce color effects.
  • the periodicity of the etching and its thickness determine the efficiency of the system in attenuating UV radiation.
  • the interference filter agent may optionally comprise two diffraction gratings extending in non- parallel directions, for example two substantially perpendicular directions, which gratings may in particular increase absorption in the UV of circularly polarized incident light and reduce the dependency of the screening performance of the filter angle of incidence.
  • the two diffraction gratings may have periods ⁇ and ⁇
  • the depths of the two diffraction gratings may also be substantially equal when they have surface relief, and that relief may create the periodic variation of the index of the grating.
  • the period of the grating may be constant or varying and the depth may be constant or varying.
  • the grating may extend in a rectilinear or curvilinear direction.
  • the diffraction grating may comprise superimposed layers having different refractive indices.
  • the diffraction grating may be produced at least partially from a dielectric material.
  • Various patterns may be used for the grating or gratings; they may, for example, have rectangular or triangular crenellations in section, or sinusoidal undulations, or stepped crenellations.
  • the diffracting structure may be formed over at least a portion of a principal face of the particle, preferably over the two principal faces of the particle.
  • the diffracting structure may comprise a protective and non-diffracting layer covering the grating or gratings .
  • Pigments having an interference effect and that are not fastened to a substrate may also be mentioned, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker) , as well as interference holographic flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from Spectratek) .
  • the composition may comprise a mixture of interference elements for screening UVA and/or UVB, for example particles having diffraction gratings with different periods and/or depths.
  • Optical agents capable of transforming the wavelength of incident light
  • the photoprotective composition may include a fluorescent compound.
  • fluorescent compound means a compound that absorbs light in the ultraviolet spectrum and possibly in the visible and that transforms the absorbed energy into fluorescent light with a longer wavelength emitted in the ultraviolet or visible part of the spectrum.
  • the compound may be an optical brightener that may be transparent and colorless, not absorbing visible light but only in the UV and transforming the absorbed energy into fluorescent light at a longer wavelength, for example 20 nm longer, or preferably 50 nm longer, or even 100 nm longer, that is emitted in the visible part of the spectrum; the color impression generated by said brighteners may thus be generated solely by predominantly blue purely fluorescent light with wavelengths of 400 nm to 500 nm.
  • an optical brightener may be transparent and colorless, not absorbing visible light but only in the UV and transforming the absorbed energy into fluorescent light at a longer wavelength, for example 20 nm longer, or preferably 50 nm longer, or even 100 nm longer, that is emitted in the visible part of the spectrum; the color impression generated by said brighteners may thus be generated solely by predominantly blue purely fluorescent light with wavelengths of 400 nm to 500 nm.
  • the fluorescent compound may be a diketopyrrolopyrrole with formula:
  • Ri, R 2 , R 3 and R 4 independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom; a halogen atom; a C6-C30 aryl group; a hydroxyl group; a cyano group; a nitro group; a sulfo group; an amino group; an acylamino group; a di (Ci- Ce) alkylamino group; a dihydroxy (C1-C6) alkylamino group; a (C 1 -C6) alkylhydroxy (C 1 -C6) alkylamino group; a (Ci- e) alkoxy group; a (C 1 -C6) alkoxycarbonyl group; a (Ci- C6 ) carboxyalkoxy group; a piperidinosulfonyl group; a pyrrolidino group; a (C1-C6) alkylhalo (C1-C6) alkylamino group; a benzoyl (C 1 atom,
  • the fluorescent compound may be a naphthalimide, with formula:
  • Ri, R 2 , R 3 independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom; a halogen atom; a C6-C30 aryl group; a hydroxyl group; a cyano group; a nitro group; a sulfo group; an amino group; an acylamino group; a di (Ci- Ce) alkylamino group, a dihydroxy (Ci-Ce) alkylamino group; a (C 1 -C6) alkylhydroxy (C 1 -C6) alkylamino group; a (Ci-Ce) alkoxy group; a (Ci-Ce) alkoxycarbonyl group; a C 1 -C6 carboxyalkoxy group; a piperidinosulfonyl group; a pyrrolidino group; a (Ci-Ce) alkylhalo (Ci-Ce) alkylamino group; a benzoyl (Ci- e) alky
  • the fluorescent compound may be a stilbene derivative such as
  • R represents a methyl or ethyl radical
  • R' represents a methyl radical
  • X- represents a chloride, iodide, sulfate, methosulfate, acetate, perchlorate type anion.
  • Photosensitiving Dye NK-557 sold by UBICHEM, where R represents an ethyl radical, R' a methyl radical and X- an iodide.
  • the fluorescent compound may be a methyne derivative such as :
  • dicyanopyrazine derivatives from Nippon Paint
  • naphtholactam derivatives from Nippon Paint
  • azalactone derivatives from rhodamines
  • xanthene derivatives from rhodamines
  • the fluorescent compound may also be a semiconductor compound that has a fluorescent effect, for example in the form of small particles termed quantum dots.
  • Quantum dots are luminescent semiconductor nanoparticles that, under light excitation, are capable of emitting radiation at a wavelength in the range 400 nm to 700 nm. These nanoparticles may be fabricated in accordance with the methods described, for example, in patents US 6 225 198 or US 5 990 479, in the publications cited therein, and also in the following publications: Dabboussi B.O.
  • Preferred fluorescent compounds are those emitting orangey and yellow colors, for example.
  • the fluorescent compound or compounds used as optical agents in the invention have a maximum reflectance in the wavelength range of 500 nm to 650 nm, preferably in the wavelength range from 550 nanometers to 620 nanometers.
  • fluorescent compounds are those belonging to the following families: naphthalimides ; cationic or non-cationic coumarins; xantheno- diquinolizines (such as sulforhodamines in particular) ; azaxanthenes ; naphtholactams ; azlactones; oxazines; thiazines; dioxazines; azo, azomethinic or methinic type fluorescent polycationic coloring agents, used alone or as a mixture.
  • the fluorescent compounds used may be aminophenyl ethenyl aryl compounds, in which the aryl is a pyridinium, which may optionally be substituted, or another cationic group such as an imidizolinium, which may optionally be substituted.
  • a fluorescent compound may be used such as 2- [2- (4-dialkylamino) phenyl ethenyl]-! alkylpyridinium, in which the alkyl radical of the pyridinium nucleus represents a methyl or ethyl radical; while that of the benzene ring represents a methyl radical .
  • An optical agent may contain several fluorescent groups on the same molecule. Examples are dimers such as :
  • Ri and R 2 which may be identical or different, represent :
  • an aryl or arylalkyl radical the aryl group containing 6 carbon atoms and the alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms; the aryl radical optionally being substituted with one or more linear or branched alkyl radicals containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted and/or substituted with at least one heteroatom and/or group comprising at least one heteroatom and/or substituted with at least one halogen atom.
  • Ri and R 2 may optionally be linked in order to form a heterocycle with the nitrogen atom and comprise one or more other heteroatoms, the heterocycle optionally being substituted with at least one linear or branched alkyl radical preferably containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms and optionally being interrupted and/or substituted with at least one heteroatom and/or group comprising at least one heteroatom and/or substituted with at least one halogen atom;
  • Ri or R 2 may optionally be engaged in a heterocycle comprising the nitrogen atom and one of the carbon atoms of the phenyl group carrying said nitrogen atom;
  • R3, R 4 which may optionally be identical, represent a hydrogen atom, or an alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • R 5 which may be identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, or a linear or branched alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom;
  • R6 which may be identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom; a halogen atom; a linear or branched alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with and/or interrupted by at least one heteroatom and/or a group carrying at least one heteroatom and/or substituted with at least one halogen atom.
  • X represents:
  • a heterocyclic radical comprising 5 or 6 links, optionally substituted with at least one linear or branched alkyl radical containing 1 to 14 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with at least one heteroatom; with at least one linear or branched aminoalkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with at least one heteroatom; or with at least one halogen atom;
  • an aromatic or diaromatic radical which may optionally be condensed, separated or not separated by an alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the aryl radical or radicals optionally being substituted with at least one halogen atom or with at least one alkyl radical containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted with and/or interrupted by at least one heteroatom and/or group carrying at least one heteroatom;
  • Y- which may be identical or not, represent an organic or mineral anion
  • n being a whole number equal to at least 2 and at most the number of cationic charges present in the fluorescent compound.
  • dimers are possible, such as those in which the attachment point is formed between the two non- cationic groups or, for example those in which the pyridinium group is replaced by another arylcationic group such as an imidazolinium group.
  • the dicyanopyrazine family may also supply compounds that fluoresce in the orange and are of interest to the invention .
  • Pigments that fluoresce in the orange may also be used.
  • An example is the Sunbrite-SG2515 yellow orange pigment sold by SunChemical.
  • the user may apply the photoprotective composition to the whole of the treated zone, spreading the layer of cosmetic composition of the invention generously or, on the contrary, in a localized manner over only certain zones, as illustrated in Figure 12.
  • the light-sensitive makeup has been created with a cosmetic composition of the invention PC completely covered by the photoprotective composition PP.
  • the photoprotective composition may, for example, be localized to the edges of the zone coated with the cosmetic composition of the invention, thereby surrounding the light-sensitive makeup patterns when the light-sensitive makeup is less extensive than the layer of cosmetic composition of the invention .
  • the photoprotective composition layer may also take the form of a flexible film to be bonded to the keratinous material, for example the skin.
  • the substance of the film may act as an optical agent and/or the film may contain at least one optical agent dispersed in the substance of the film.
  • the film may also carry a coating containing the optical agent, for example in the form of an impression or a multilayer interference structure.
  • the user may apply said film over the whole of the layer of cosmetic composition of the invention, or could optionally cut the film to cover only the non-developed zones, not covering the developed zones.
  • An automatic cutting system may be used that, starting from the content of the light-sensitive makeup, e.g. its contour, cuts the protective film to the suitable shape. The user then places the cut protective film over the non-developed zones.
  • the photoprotective composition is deposited by transfer, by applying a support sheet carrying at least one optical agent to the zone to be treated.
  • the user brings the sheet into contact with the keratinous material coated with the cosmetic composition of the invention and then uses friction or other means such as heat or a solvent to cause the optical agent or agents to be transferred onto the cosmetic composition of the invention.
  • the photoprotective composition layer is reversible, i.e. it is possible for the user to remove it without removing the first layer of cosmetic composition of the invention.
  • the first layer may be formulated so that it is water-resistant or resistant to a mixture of water and surfactant
  • the second layer may be formulated so that it is not water-resistant or resistant to a mixture of water and surfactant.
  • a second layer may be used, forming a cohesive coating before or after application to the first layer.
  • the second layer when it is peelable, comprises an elastomeric material, for example.
  • the second layer is less adherent to the first layer, for example by the cosmetic composition of the invention making use of low surface tension compounds such as silicone or fluorinated compounds.
  • an intermediate non-stick layer is interposed between the first and the second layer, facilitating removal of the photoprotective composition layer.
  • the photoprotective composition layer may have a very high screening power F, for example 20 or more.
  • a single layer containing the optical agent or agents or several layers containing several different optical agents may be deposited.
  • a single layer may be deposited that ensures that the layer of cosmetic composition of the invention is protected from UV and visible light.
  • UV protective layer and an additional layer for additional protection in the UV and/or in the visible, said additional layer comprising a coloring agent or a thermally unstable photochromic agent, for example. It is also possible to deposit one UV protective layer and an additional layer comprising a fluorescent compound ensuring additional protection in the UV.
  • a multilayer film comprising a first layer of cosmetic composition of the invention and a second layer that is photoprotective comprising an optical agent forming a screen against the development radiation for the cosmetic composition of the invention.
  • This film may be self- supporting or it may be applied by transfer.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention may be applied as is to the keratinous material, or it may be on a base layer, in particular a base layer as defined below .
  • the second composition may be applied directly to the layer of cosmetic composition of the invention or to an intermediate layer between the two, as mentioned above.
  • the second composition may itself be coated with an additional layer where appropriate.
  • two successively applied layers for example the layer of photochromic cosmetic composition of the invention and the layer of photoprotective composition, or the base layer and the layer of cosmetic composition of the invention, or the layer of cosmetic composition of the invention and the layer intended to form a material protecting the light- sensitive makeup, may be physically complementary, allowing or facilitating the second layer to grip onto the first and/or allowing or facilitating spreading of the second layer on the first.
  • the first layer may contain an anionic polymer and the second then contains a cationic compound, for example a cationic filter, a cationic coloring agent or a cationic fluorescent compound.
  • a cationic compound for example a cationic filter, a cationic coloring agent or a cationic fluorescent compound.
  • the first layer may have a first surface tension of preferably more than 40 mN.m -1 , for example by using at least one hydrophilic polymer.
  • the second layer may have a lower second surface tension than the first, preferably less than 40, for example by using a mainly oily, silicone, or fluorinated composition, or by using an aqueous composition into which one or more surfactants has been introduced.
  • the ingredients (solvents, adhesives, etc) for the second layer may be selected so that they are not solvents of the first.
  • an organic solvent ethanol, acetone, alkyl acetate, carbonaceous oils (for example isododecane) , or volatile silicones
  • an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solvent may be selected for the second layer, or vice versa.
  • a first layer containing a latex is used. On drying, the latex coalesces and renders the first layer inert to application of the second layer. It is also possible to use a first layer containing a low hydrosolubility acrylic/acrylate copolymer rendered hydrosoluble by neutralization with a volatile base such as ammonia. After drying the first layer, the ammonia will evaporate and render the first layer water- resistant .
  • a base layer of a first photoprotective composition may be applied to the keratinous material, the base layer containing at least one optical agent that is capable, at least temporarily, of forming a screen at a wavelength ⁇ , especially a wavelength within the range 320 nm to 440 nm, and said base layer may have a second cosmetic composition of the invention applied thereto that is capable of being developed by exposure to radiation with a wavelength of at least ⁇ ; the optical agent or agents may be selected from those indicated above.
  • the photoprotective composition applied as a base layer has a screening power F against solar radiation of at least 2, preferably 5 or 10.
  • Using the base layer may reduce the risk of staining the skin by rendering migration of the photochromic compound or compounds of the cosmetic composition of the invention towards the subjacent keratinous material more difficult.
  • This migration may be further slowed or even prevented when the first and second compositions are not miscible with each other, one of the compositions being aqueous, for example, and the other non aqueous, or vice versa, in order to form two phases.
  • an organic solvent is selected from alcohols or ketones, for example, in particular ethanol or acetone, alkyl acetate, carbonaceous oils, in particular isododecane, or volatile silicones for the second photoprotective composition and an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solvent for the first cosmetic composition of the invention, or vice versa.
  • a first composition containing a latex may be used. On drying, this composition coalesces and renders the layer inert to application of the cosmetic composition of the invention.
  • the base layer may be formed on a surface that is more extensive that the cosmetic composition of the invention. This facilitates application of the cosmetic composition of the invention, since the user no longer needs to worry about making the outlines of the two applied compositions correspond precisely.
  • the optical agent contained in the base layer is preferably a non-photostable sunscreen, with a photostability index of 80% or less.
  • One resulting advantage is that when a base layer is applied to the skin, the user is not completely prevented from tanning, even if the extent of the base layer goes substantially beyond that of the cosmetic composition of the invention. During exposure to the sun, the base layer may then lose its capacity to screen UV, which enables the user to tan progressively at least in the zone not covered by the cosmetic composition of the invention. If the sunscreen were photostable, users might fear applying the base layer too extensively, for fear of leaving trace marks in their tan.
  • the screen Parsol 1789 is an example of a non-photostable screen, having a photostability index of the order of 30%, defined as being the ratio between the screening power after one hour's exposure to UVA radiation produced by an irradiator from SUNTEST and the initial screening power.
  • the base layer may be applied well before the light- sensitive makeup, for example more than 15 minutes before, which may have the effect of leaving the base layer time to dry and to render it insoluble or nearly insoluble in the layer applied over it, as mentioned above. Further, on drying, the base layer may optionally form a relatively smooth surface, facilitating application of a layer of cosmetic composition of the invention with uniform thickness. The skin is thus smoothed, and so the second layer may be thinner and there is a reduced risk of non-uniform thickness, which might give rise to unattractive visual effects following development .
  • At least one intermediate layer may be applied to the base layer in order to place it between the layer of cosmetic composition of the invention and the base layer.
  • This intermediate layer may have the effect of improving the hold of the layer of cosmetic composition of the invention on the base layer or, on the contrary, of facilitating removal during makeup removal, for example.
  • the intermediate layer may be a layer of a polymer or wax.
  • the intermediate layer need not function as a screen at the wavelength ⁇ for developing the cosmetic composition of the invention.
  • a layer of another composition may be applied beneath the base layer to facilitate its adhesion to the skin.
  • the base layer need not be directly in contact with the skin.
  • the base layer is applied directly to the skin or other keratinous material.
  • At least one layer of cosmetic composition of the invention may be applied to the keratinous material, and by means of a second composition or by means of added energy, it may form a material that mechanically protects the light-sensitive makeup in the layer of cosmetic composition of the invention.
  • the light-sensitive makeup may be created before or after forming the material providing the light-sensitive makeup with mechanical protection, by selectively developing the layer of cosmetic composition of the invention.
  • Improving the mechanical hold of the light-sensitive makeup may delay degradation of the image formed and the loss of sharpness of the image over time is slowed. Further, the light-sensitive makeup is rendered less sensitive to rubbing and to movements. The risk of transferring the cosmetic composition of the invention onto clothing or other regions of the body is also reduced .
  • a more durable light-sensitive makeup may be created on zones such as zones covered with clothing, for example the back, stomach, breasts, legs, or buttocks.
  • Said material may be formed by solvent evaporation, or by a polymerization or cross-linking reaction, which does not necessarily need to be complete. Surface hardening, by polymerization and/or cross-linking, may prove sufficient to improve the hold.
  • the material providing mechanical protection of the light-sensitive makeup is advantageously transparent.
  • the material When the material covers the layer of cosmetic composition of the invention, the material forms a wear layer that, by wearing bit by bit during the day, protects the light-sensitive makeup.
  • the material may also contribute to the esthetics of the light-sensitive makeup, by providing an additional optical effect, for example a magnifying or coloration effect.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention may contain all of the polymerizable and/or cross-linkable compounds serving to form the material.
  • the irradiation used to develop the cosmetic composition of the invention serves for polymerization and/or cross- linking .
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention may also contain a first agent that may potentially polymerize and/or cross-link.
  • a second compound is applied that, by association with the first, may carry out the polymerization or cross-linking.
  • the irradiation may also optionally serve to bring about polymerization and/or cross-linking.
  • the second composition is applied after applying the cosmetic composition of the invention and creating the light-sensitive makeup look.
  • the covering layer may be applied either before or after irradiation serving to develop the photochromic compound or compounds. Its mean thickness may be at least 2 ym, if possible at least 5 ym if the material is rather hard or elastomeric, preferably at least 10 ym if the material has a rather soft elastic modulus.
  • the thickness of said layer is preferably more than 5 ym, more preferably 10 ym.
  • the thickness is preferably less than 1 mm.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention incorporates all or some of the compounds that may potentially cross-link
  • the thickness of the second layer (expressed after evaporation of any solvents) is preferably equal to at least 20% of the thickness of the first layer, preferably more than 50% of the thickness of the first layer.
  • the thickness of the second layer is preferably more than 5 ym.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention does not include any potentially cross-linkable compounds
  • the thickness of the second layer (expressed after evaporating off any solvents) is preferably equal to at least 10% of the thickness of the first layer, and preferably more than 30% of the thickness of the first layer.
  • the thickness of the second layer is at least more than 5 ym, preferably less than 1 mm.
  • Polymerization and/or cross-linking allowing formation of the material may be chemical or physical.
  • chemical cross-linking means that a compound, whether alone, or by reaction with a second compound, or by the action of radiation, or by the supply of energy, is capable of creating covalent chemical bonds between the molecules. The result is an increase in the cohesion of the material including said compound.
  • the compound may be a simple molecule, or it may already be the result of a combination of several molecules, for example oligomers or polymers.
  • the compound may carry one or more reactive functions.
  • Preferred molecules are those that, after cross- linking, provide a solid and/or deformable but elastomeric material.
  • the chemical functions may react with another function of the same nature or may react with another chemical function. Reaction with another function of the same nature
  • ethylenic functions particular acrylates, acrylics, methacrylates , methacrylics , or styrene.
  • Photopolymerizable and/or photo-cross-linkable compositions are described, for example, in patents CA 1 306 954 and US 5 456 905.
  • the ethylenic functions may be activated by an attracting group in order to accelerate the reactions and render the supply of any external activation redundant. This is typical of the ethylcyanoacrylate monomer, for which the sole presence of a catalyst such as water allows the reaction to occur.
  • the ethylenic functions may be moderately activated, for example by an attracting group.
  • the advantage is that the reaction requires an external activation, which is important when controlling the initiation and the yield of the reaction, but does not require a photoinitiator .
  • it may be a cyanoacrylate monomer, in particular a cyanoacrylate monomer in which the group carried by the ester function contains at least 2, if possible 4 carbonaceous concatenations.
  • Molecules requiring external activation such as light but not requiring a photoinitiator are preferred.
  • molecules that are capable of reacting by photodimerization such as those described in the patent EP 1 572 139, are particularly preferred, in particular those carrying functions such as:
  • R represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group
  • ⁇ R' represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • A designates a sulfur atom, an oxygen atom, or a NR' or C(R' )2 group, R and R' being as defined above;
  • the reactions carried out on another function of the same nature are not limited to reactions involving ethylenic functions.
  • siloxane groups in particular dialkoxy- or dihydroxy-silane functions, trialkoxy- or trihydroxy- silane functions. It is possible to use molecules carrying alkyltrialkoxysilane or dialkyltrialkoxysilane functions, in particular alkylalkoxysilane functions where the alkyl group carries a hydrosolubilizing function such as an amine, for example a molecule such as aminotriethoxysilane or aminotriethoxysilane, or molecules carrying such functions. In addition to small molecules based on siloxanes (monomers or oligomers) , compounds with a larger mass may be used, in particular those described in patent FR 2 910 315;
  • Compounds capable of reacting by oxidation are also preferred, such as aromatic compounds carrying at least two hydroxyl functions, or a hydroxyl function and an amine function, or a hydroxyl function, for example cathecol or dihydroxyindole .
  • the oxidizing agent may be oxygen from the air or another oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide, for example.
  • the molecules that react in such circumstances have two types of functions that are complementary. They may be systems in which molecules carrying functions FA are brought into contact with molecules carrying functions FB that are capable of reacting with the functions FA.
  • They may also be molecules that carry one or more functions FA and one or more functions FB on the same structure .
  • the function FA may be selected from the following, for example:
  • ⁇ sulfonyl halide RSO 2 CI or F, R being a Ci to C30 alkyl .
  • PAMAM dendrimer in particular sold by Dendritech, DSM, Sigma- Aldrich (STARBURST, PAMAM DENDRIMER, G(2, 0) from DENDRITECH) ;
  • dendrimer with hydroxyl functions in particular sold by Perstorp, DSM, (example: HBP TMP core 2 Generation PERSTORP) ;
  • PEI polyethylene-imine
  • HP cellulose such as KLUCELEF from AQUALON
  • ⁇ amino-cellulose for example those described in
  • PVA polyvinylacetal
  • AIRVOL 540 from AIRPRODUCTS CHEMICAL
  • This second case also includes molecules that may react by hydrosilylation :
  • a molecule that is already present on the skin or excreted by the skin is used as a reagent or catalytic agent. It is typically water, which may assist in the cyanoacrylate reaction, for example, or in certain reactions involving siloxanes.
  • a molecule is used as the reagent or catalytic agent that is present in ambient air. It is typically oxygen that is involved in the cross-linking reaction of certain oils such as siccative oils, in particular siccative vegetable oils such as linseed oil, China wood oil (or tung oil) , oiticica oil, vernonia oil, poppy-seed oil, pomegranate oil, calendula oil or alkyd resins.
  • oils such as siccative oils, in particular siccative vegetable oils such as linseed oil, China wood oil (or tung oil) , oiticica oil, vernonia oil, poppy-seed oil, pomegranate oil, calendula oil or alkyd resins.
  • the reactions may be accelerated by using catalysts such as cobalt, manganese, calcium, zirconium, zinc, strontium, lead, lithium, iron, cerium, barium or tin salts in the form of the octoate, linoleate or octanoate, for example.
  • catalysts such as cobalt, manganese, calcium, zirconium, zinc, strontium, lead, lithium, iron, cerium, barium or tin salts in the form of the octoate, linoleate or octanoate, for example.
  • molecules are used that bind with each other by rearranging.
  • molecules that carry an internal disulfide By opening the internal disulfide and reacting said disulfides, it is possible to create new covalent bonds between the molecules.
  • Catalysts may be used to accelerate the reactions.
  • metal salts such as manganese, copper, iron, platinum, titanates or enzymes such as oxidases or laccases may be used.
  • Cross-linking may be physical when ingredients are used that are capable of creating durable physical bonds between the molecules and endowing the final material with water resistance. These bonds, which are non- covalent, are of the ionic or hydrogen type.
  • Examples that may be mentioned are mixtures with a di- or poly-valent type salt, for example a calcium, zinc, strontium, or aluminum salt.
  • a compound A such as an alginate derivative and a compound B such as a calcium salt may be mixed.
  • the alginate derivative is contained in the cosmetic composition of the invention.
  • an aqueous solution of calcium chloride is applied in the form of a spray, for example, in order to cause cross-linking.
  • Molecules that are capable of creating strong hydrogen bonds may also be mentioned, such as polysiloxane and polyurea block copolymers, and in particular those with formulae:
  • R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be substituted with one or more fluorine or chlorine atoms, ;
  • X represents an alkylene radical containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in which the non-neighboring methylene units may be replaced by -0- radicals;
  • A represents an oxygen atom or an amino radical
  • Z represents an oxygen atom or an amino radical
  • R' represents hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms
  • Y represents a bivalent hydrocarbon radical, if necessary substituted with fluorine or chlorine, containing 1 to 20 carbon atoms;
  • D represents an alkylene radical, if necessary substituted with fluorine, chlorine, C 1 -C6 alkyl, or C 1 -C6 alkyl ester, containing 1 to 700 carbon atoms, in which the non neighboring methylene units may be replaced by the radicals -0-, -COO-, -OCO- or -OCOO-;
  • n is a number from 1 to 4000
  • a is a number that is at least 1;
  • b is a number from 0 to 40;
  • c is a number from 0 to 30;
  • d is a number greater than 0.
  • the cross-linking compounds may be selected so that they provide the best possible resistance, in particular to water and moisture.
  • a first reactive ingredient FA of the polyol type may be used, such as a cellulose derivative, and a second reactive ingredient FB of the perfluoro- alkyltriethoxysilane type.
  • the application is carried out in two stages.
  • the polyol is introduced into the cosmetic composition of the invention.
  • a coating composition containing the ingredient FB is applied to the cosmetic composition of the invention.
  • a system is employed that is capable of producing a cross-linked coating; it also contains hydrophobic particles.
  • hydrophobic particles An illustration of these combinations is the combination of hydrophobic particles with condensation techniques or hydrosilylation techniques such as those described in patent FR 2 910 315.
  • the solid particles that may be used may be of mineral or organic origin, porous or non porous, colored or not colored. They may have any morphology, preferably spherical.
  • the particles may be naturally hydrophobic, which is the case with PTFE powder, for example, or they may be rendered hydrophobic by coatings, in particular of hydrocarbons, silicones, fluoro compounds or fluorosilicones .
  • coatings that provide better resistance to sebum and to fats, based on oxide or zinc salts, for example, or coatings that are rendered more resistant to elongation or to tearing. These improvements may be of use in applications to parts of the body that move the most, such as the lips, the hands, the armpits, the neck, or any zones close to joints.
  • the elongation strength may be acquired by using cross-linking ingredients that, for example, produce a material with an elastomeric nature. It is also possible to integrate non reactive compounds into the composition or compositions, providing an elastomeric nature, for example an elastomeric polymer such as a deproteined natural latex or fibers.
  • a woven or nonwoven fabric may be applied to the skin before or during or after application of the light-sensitive makeup composition. Impregnating the composition into the fabric provides mechanical strength.
  • Lubricating active ingredients may be incorporated in the compositions, in particular solid lubricants such as boron nitride or aluminum nitride, for example.
  • solid fillers in particular fillers that are hydrophilic or rendered hydrophilic, such as metal oxide particles, metal hydroxide particles, metal carbonate particles, or organic particles. These fillers may provide additional abrasion resistance.
  • the coating layer may form a mechanical protective material above the layer of cosmetic composition of the invention and act as a wear layer.
  • the coating layer is then advantageously cohesive, after evaporating off any solvents, and it may be applied before or after irradiation.
  • cohesive means that the layer is resistant on contact. As an example, if a flat probe with a surface area of 1 cm 2 is brought towards the coating layer, so that it comes into contact with a pressure of 10 N/cm 2 , then the probe is withdrawn after a contact time of 5 seconds, it must not entrain matter. Thus, oily compounds are excluded.
  • the coating layer is not sticky once the solvents have been evaporated off.
  • the term "not sticky" means that the layer offers no resistance to withdrawal.
  • a flat probe with a surface area of 1 cm 2 is brought towards the layer so that it comes into contact with a pressure of 10 N/cm 2 , and then it is withdrawn after a contact time of 5 seconds, it must not require a resistive force at the time of withdrawal.
  • PSA pressure sensitive adhesive
  • the material forming the coating layer may have an elastic modulus of less than 500 MPa and more than 100 kPa, preferably in the range 200 MPa to 1 MPa.
  • Its mean thickness is at least 1 ym, if possible at least 2 ym if the material has an elastic modulus of more than 10 MPa. Its mean thickness is at least 2 ym, if possible at least 5 ym if the material has an elastic modulus of less than 10 MPa.
  • the mean thickness is preferably at least 1 ym, even if the elastic modulus is less than 10 MPa.
  • the recovery test is carried out by initially preparing a specimen approximately 200 ym thick, 6 cm in length, and 1 cm wide. necessary, the specimen optionally produced on a support film whose mechanical impact is judged to be small compared with the mechanical properties of the specimen.
  • the specimen is subjected to a tensile deformation of 40% of its length at a rate of 0.1 mm/s . Next, the load is released and 1 minute is allowed to pass.
  • the coating layer is applied with a main solvent that is different from that used for the layer of cosmetic composition of the invention.
  • this condition may be circumvented, in particular when using cross-linking or coalescent compounds for the layer of cosmetic composition of the invention.
  • the layer of cosmetic composition of the invention contains a latex with a glass transition temperature, Tg of ⁇ 40 °C and water, for example, the coating layer may also be water-based.
  • the layer of cosmetic composition of the invention contains a solvent and a compound that is capable of cross-linking, such as those described above, for example, the coating layer may contain the same solvent .
  • light or heat may be supplied, for example. It is also possible to deposit an intermediate layer produced, for example, from a resin or any other product that aids adhesion, such as an adhesive or certain powders, in particular those that assist the upper layer in gripping because of their grain size. After application of the coating layer, light or heat may be supplied.
  • the coating layer may be eliminated progressively.
  • the light-sensitive makeup layer is not altered over time and precision of the light-sensitive makeup is fully retained.
  • the compounds that may be used in forming said coating layer are polymers, for example poly(meth- ) acrylics, poly (meth- ) acrylates , polyurethanes , polyesters, polystyrenes or copolymers in the soluble or dispersed form, for example selected from Mexomer, ultrahold Strong DR 25, 28-29-30, Gantrez, Amerhold DR 25, amphomer, Luviset Si Pur, AQ 38, or AQ 48.
  • polymers for example poly(meth- ) acrylics, poly (meth- ) acrylates , polyurethanes , polyesters, polystyrenes or copolymers in the soluble or dispersed form, for example selected from Mexomer, ultrahold Strong DR 25, 28-29-30, Gantrez, Amerhold DR 25, amphomer, Luviset Si Pur, AQ 38, or AQ 48.
  • the polymers may carry side or terminal groups in order to adjust their hardness.
  • the material forming the coating layer may comprise acrylate polymers with silicone functions, such as VS 80, for example.
  • the polymers may be natural polymers or modified natural polymers, for example polyosic polymers, such as guar gums, carouba gums, or cellulose derivatives, such as HPMCP or proteins.
  • polyosic polymers such as guar gums, carouba gums, or cellulose derivatives, such as HPMCP or proteins.
  • the polymers may be hydrocarbon polymers.
  • the polymers may be silicones such as silicone gums, for example.
  • plasticizers for example glycol ether ( tripropylene glycol monomethyl ether) (known as PPG3 methyl ether, from DOW CHEMICAL) or glycerin, certain non-volatile solvents may be included, such as propylene carbonate, alcohols, silicone or carbonaceous oils.
  • PPG3 methyl ether tripropylene glycol monomethyl ether
  • non-volatile solvents such as propylene carbonate, alcohols, silicone or carbonaceous oils.
  • Mineral or organic particles may be included in the composition, which may prolong the service life of the wear layer without, however, causing it to lose its qualities.
  • the particles do not cause tightness in the skin but may, however, cause the phenomena of flaking or balling.
  • a concentration by weight of 40% of particles is not exceeded (particles capable of coalescing not included) .
  • Rheological agents that aid application may be included.
  • spreading agents such as surfactants or certain solvents with a boiling point in the range 80°C to 200°C. These solvents have the advantage of slowing down caking of the composition while being eliminated over time.
  • concentrations of the various ingredients may be adjusted so that the thicknesses after drying are, taking into account the quantities applied, in agreement with the specifications given above.
  • the dry matter concentrations may be from 1% to 50%.
  • the coating composition may be dry.
  • each composition may contain ingredients allowing or facilitating the spreading over the keratinous material, more particularly the skin; providing a care, comfort, for example odor or softness; aiding in elimination on washing, for example one or more surfactants; limiting penetration of the ingredients into the skin, for example astringents; or supplying other cosmetic functions, for example moisturizing, color, shine, and/or limiting the impact of ultraviolet screening, for example a self- tanning agent or a vitamin D activator.
  • the user When removing makeup, the user may leave traces of the non-developed cosmetic composition of the invention.
  • these traces may be caused to be developed subsequently, for example after a few hours have passed in ambient light. At that time, it may be difficult for the user to start removing the makeup again.
  • optical agent that forms a screen at at least one wavelength ⁇ which acts to develop the cosmetic composition of the invention.
  • Said optical agent may be re-applied several times, where appropriate.
  • the optical agent may be part of a makeup removal composition .
  • forming a screen at the wavelength ⁇ means that the optical agent attenuates radiation of wavelength ⁇ by a factor of at least 2, the measurement being carried out using apparatus that may measure the absorption spectrum by restricting the irradiating light to a zone with a wavelength centered around wavelength ⁇ , as detailed above. Applying the optical agent during, and preferably after, makeup removal prevents traces of photochromic compound from being developed and reduces the risk of staining the keratinous material or clothing.
  • the keratinous material may not be washed during the hour following application of the optical agent. Later, when the user washes, the non-developed traces of photochromic compound protected by the optical agent can be eliminated.
  • Another advantage linked to application of the optical agent is that, when a fresh light-sensitive makeup look is created, it prevents certain non-developed parts of the preceding light-sensitive makeup that are still present from being developed during exposure to the radiation used to create the fresh light-sensitive makeup look .
  • the optical agent may be applied after removing the makeup.
  • the optical agent may also form part of the formulation of a makeup removal composition used for makeup removal.
  • the wavelength ⁇ may fall within the UV or near UV spectrum (280 nm to 450 nm) , in particular in the range from 320 nm to 440 nm.
  • the makeup removal composition may be a conventional makeup removal product based on surfactants or a particular makeup removal product adapted to compounds from the cosmetic composition of the invention, and may include a solvent, for example ethyl or butyl acetate, acetone, ethanol or mixtures thereof, and more generally any solvent selected from cosmetically acceptable organic solvents (acceptable tolerance, toxicology, and feel) .
  • These organic solvents may represent 0% to 98% of the total composition weight. They may be selected from the group constituted by hydrophilic organic solvents, lipophilic organic solvents, amphiphilic solvents, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrophilic organic solvents examples include linear or branched lower mono alcohols containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, or isobutanol; polyethylene glycols containing 6 to 80 ethylene oxide moieties; polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, or sorbitol; mono- or di-alkyl isosorbides of alkyl groups that contain 1 to 5 carbon atoms; glycol ethers such as diethylene glycol mono-methyl or mono-ethyl ether, and propylene glycol ethers such as dipropylene glycol methyl ether.
  • linear or branched lower mono alcohols containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, or isobutanol
  • polyethylene glycols containing 6 to 80 ethylene oxide moieties polyo
  • amphiphilic organic solvents examples include polyols such as derivatives of polypropylene glycol (PPG) , such as the esters of polypropylene glycol and fatty acid, or PPG and fatty acid such as PPG-23 oleyl ether or PPG-36 oleate.
  • PPG polypropylene glycol
  • PPG and fatty acid such as PPG-23 oleyl ether or PPG-36 oleate.
  • lipophilic organic solvents examples include fatty esters such as diisopropyl adipate, dioctyle adipate, alkyl benzoates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2- hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2- octyldodecyl myristate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate, 2-octyldodecyl lactate, glycerin triisostearate, or diglycerin triisostearate.
  • fatty esters such as diisopropyl adipate, dioctyle adipate, alkyl benzoates, isopropyl myri
  • the makeup removal composition may also comprise:
  • an oil for example in the form of a microemulsion
  • a pH agent if the compound or compounds used to maintain the photochromic agent or agents on the skin are pH-sensitive, as is carbopol, for example; or
  • anionic surfactants that may be used alone or as a mixture in the makeup removal composition that may in particular be mentioned are alkaline salts, ammonium salts, amine salts or amino alcohol salts of the following compounds: alkoylsulfates , alkoylether sulfates, alkoylamide sulfates and ether sulfates, alkoylarylpolyethersulfates , monoglyceride sulfates, alkoylsulfonates , alkoylamide sulfonates, alkoylarylsulfonates , a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkoylsulfosuccinates, alkoylethersulfosuccinates , alkoylamide sulfosuccinates , alkoylsulfosuccinamates , alkoylsulf
  • the alkoyl or acyl radical in all of these compounds generally designates a chain containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms .
  • soaps and fatty acid salts such as oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, coprah oil acids or hydrogenated coprah oil acids and in particular salts of amines such as amine stearates; acyl lactylates of acyl radical that contains 8-20 carbon atoms; and carboxylic acids of polyglycolic ethers with formula:
  • non-ionic surfactants that may be used alone or as a mixture and that may be mentioned in particular are: alcohols, alkoylphenols and polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids with a fatty chain containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms; copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated fatty amides, polyethoxylated fatty amines, ethanolamides , esters of fatty acids with glycol, esters of fatty acids with sorbitan, which may optionally be oxyethylenated, esters of fatty acids with saccharose, esters of fatty acids with polyethylene glycol, phosphoric triesters, esters of fatty acids with glucose derivatives; alkylpolyglycosides and alkylamides of aminated sugars; the condensation products of an a-diol, a
  • the makeup removal composition that contains the optical agent may be formulated so as to allow the optical agent to be deposited on rinsing, for example by coacervation effect, this effect being capable of being obtained, for example, by using surfactants and polymers with complementary ionic natures, for example PC/PA, TC/TA, TC/PA, TA/PC, possibly with amphoteric and non- ionic surfactants to facilitate deposition.
  • PCs are typically compounds such as cationic guar gums (Jaguar C13S, for example) or artificial compounds such as JR 400 or ionene.
  • TCs are typically quaternary chain compounds (in particular trimethylammonium groups) and fatty chain compounds (C6 to C30) .
  • PAs may be multianionic polymers such as acrylate or methacrylate polymers or copolymers or polymers containing sulfonic groups.
  • TAs are anionic surfactants such as carboxylic or sulfate or sulfonic surfactants (LES, LS) .
  • the makeup removal composition may be applied using any suitable support, in particular one that is capable of absorbing, for example a fibrous makeup removal disk, for example woven or nonwoven, felt, cotton-wool, flocked film, sponge, or wipe; the support used for makeup removal is advantageously eliminated after the makeup removal operation.
  • a fibrous makeup removal disk for example woven or nonwoven, felt, cotton-wool, flocked film, sponge, or wipe
  • the makeup removal composition may be contained in a receptacle and withdrawn each time the makeup is to be removed.
  • the makeup removal composition impregnates the support used for makeup removal, the support then possibly being packaged, for example in sealed packaging.
  • the keratinous material does not need to be rinsed. In a variation, it may be rinsed. Rinsing may be carried out using running water, for example, without adding soap.
  • the compound is adapted to the light-sensitive makeup in so far as the non-photochromic parts do not develop naturally in visible light.
  • a layer of UV screening agent is applied to prevent ambient UV rays from developing the undeveloped areas.
  • Example 2 The compound is introduced at 1% into a nail varnish combining nitrocellulose and ethyl acetate. After application and drying, the nail is covered with a mask comprising a heart-shaped cutout and is exposed to daylight.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé pour le traitement cosmétique d'un matériau kératineux humain comprenant les étapes consistant à : a) appliquer au moins une composition cosmétique comprenant un composé photochromique, sur le matériau kératineux humain, ledit composé photochromique comprenant : • une fonction photoclivable, en particulier choisie parmi des fonctions carbamate, carbonate ou ester, et • un précurseur de chromophore lié de manière covalente à ladite fonction photoclivable, b) irradier la zone traitée avec un rayonnement lumineux, en particulier un rayonnement ayant une longueur d'onde comprise entre 280 et 450 nm, de façon à photocliver le composé photochromique et produire un composé d'une couleur différente.
PCT/IB2011/053651 2010-08-20 2011-08-18 Procédé cosmétique WO2012023116A1 (fr)

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1056706 2010-08-20
FR1056706A FR2963887A1 (fr) 2010-08-20 2010-08-20 Procede de traitement cosmetique utilisant un compose photorevelable comportant une fonction photoclivable.
US39122110P 2010-10-08 2010-10-08
US61/391,221 2010-10-08

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2014152096A1 (fr) * 2013-03-15 2014-09-25 Suncare Research Laboratories, Llc Détermination in vitro d'une protection par écran solaire sur la base d'une analyse d'image d'écrans solaires appliqués sur la peau
CN107253936A (zh) * 2017-06-23 2017-10-17 复旦大学 一类可用于次氯酸检测的荧光探针及其制备方法和应用
WO2020083947A1 (fr) * 2018-10-22 2020-04-30 TheUnseen Limited Composition cosmétique

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2014152096A1 (fr) * 2013-03-15 2014-09-25 Suncare Research Laboratories, Llc Détermination in vitro d'une protection par écran solaire sur la base d'une analyse d'image d'écrans solaires appliqués sur la peau
CN107253936A (zh) * 2017-06-23 2017-10-17 复旦大学 一类可用于次氯酸检测的荧光探针及其制备方法和应用
CN107253936B (zh) * 2017-06-23 2021-07-23 复旦大学 一类可用于次氯酸检测的荧光探针及其制备方法和应用
WO2020083947A1 (fr) * 2018-10-22 2020-04-30 TheUnseen Limited Composition cosmétique

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