WO2011144519A1 - Dispositifs pour la pulvérisation d'une composition parfumante comprenant au moins un alcane linéaire liquide volatil et procédés servant à parfumer - Google Patents

Dispositifs pour la pulvérisation d'une composition parfumante comprenant au moins un alcane linéaire liquide volatil et procédés servant à parfumer Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2011144519A1
WO2011144519A1 PCT/EP2011/057717 EP2011057717W WO2011144519A1 WO 2011144519 A1 WO2011144519 A1 WO 2011144519A1 EP 2011057717 W EP2011057717 W EP 2011057717W WO 2011144519 A1 WO2011144519 A1 WO 2011144519A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
spraying
composition
fragrancing
weight
mixture
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Application number
PCT/EP2011/057717
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English (en)
Inventor
Virginie Albelda
Isabelle Bara
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
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Publication of WO2011144519A1 publication Critical patent/WO2011144519A1/fr

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q13/00Formulations or additives for perfume preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a particular spraying device comprising a fragrancing liquid composition comprising at least one fragrance, at least one liquid volatile linear alkane or a mixture of liquid volatile linear alkanes.
  • the invention also relates to a process for fragrancing human keratin materials and especially the skin, the lips, the hair, the scalp or the nails, comprising at least one step of spraying a fragrancing composition using the said spraying device.
  • the invention also relates to a process for fragrancing ambient air, comprising at least one step of spraying a fragrancing composition using the said spraying device.
  • a perfume is a combination of different odoriferous substances that evaporate at different periods.
  • Each perfume has what is known as a "head note”, which is the odour that diffuses first when the perfume is applied or when the receptacle containing it is opened, a "heart or body note”, which corresponds to the full fragrance (given off for a few hours after the "head note”) and a “base note”, which is the most persistent odour (given off for several hours after the "body note”).
  • the persistence of the base note corresponds to the remanence of the fragrance. Human beings have always sought to perfume themselves and to perfume the objects surrounding them or their environments, both to mask strong and/or unpleasant odours and to give a nice odour.
  • Perfumes are applied on various supports.
  • Perfumery often makes use of spraying devices comprising a receptacle containing a liquid fragrancing composition, equipped with a mechanism for spraying the said composition in the form of droplets. Mention may be made, inter alia, of pump-dispensing bottles, aerosols based on propellent gas, electrostatic spraying systems WO 2005/075 095, and piezoelectric devices that nebulize the fragrancing liquid composition under the action of ultrasonic energy of appropriate frequency and power, the energy being produced by a piezoelectric material (transducer) excited by a high-frequency electrical signal.
  • spraying devices comprising a receptacle containing a liquid fragrancing composition, equipped with a mechanism for spraying the said composition in the form of droplets. Mention may be made, inter alia, of pump-dispensing bottles, aerosols based on propellent gas, electrostatic spraying systems WO 2005/075 095, and piezoelectric devices that nebulize the fragrancing liquid composition under the action
  • the fragrancing formulations present in these types of device generally comprise a perfume concentrate comprising volatile organic compounds (VOC), at least one solvent for the said perfume; the viscosity of the liquid composition being adapted to allow the diffusion of the said perfume.
  • VOC volatile organic compounds
  • the perfume diffusers most commonly used comprise liquid fragrancing formulations based on volatile alcohol and more particularly ethanol.
  • Ambience perfumes mainly contain glycol ethers.
  • the alcohol On account of its high volatility, the alcohol has a tendency to cause drying and clogging of the perfume dispensing means of the apparatus.
  • the diffusion qualities in terms of height and volume are not fully satisfactory.
  • Ethanol has a tendency to impair the olfactory characteristics of the fragrancing ingredients, on account not only of its powerful odour but also of its capacity to react, in the presence of water, with the fragrancing ingredients and thus to modify their odour and/or colour.
  • the object of the present invention is to find novel fragrancing formulations conditioned in suitable perfume diffusers, in which at least one of the various problems stated previously has been overcome.
  • One subject of the invention is thus an assembly comprising:
  • a subject of the invention is also an assembly comprising:
  • a spraying device comprising a container containing the said composition, and a spraying mechanism comprising at least one spraying orifice with a diameter of less than 500 m.
  • the invention also relates to a process for fragrancing human keratin materials and especially the skin, the lips, the hair, the scalp or the nails, comprising at least one step of spraying a fragrancing composition using a device as defined previously.
  • the invention also relates to a process for fragrancing ambient air, comprising at least one step of spraying a fragrancing composition using a device as defined previously.
  • fragmenting composition means any composition, mixture of pure concentrate, of solvents and of additives necessary for conserving the composition.
  • liquid composition means any composition that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • perfume concentrate means any odoriferous substance in its simple form or in the form of a mixture, the two possible forms comprising the solvents necessary for transforming the natural material and/or for obtaining the mixture.
  • the perfume concentrate applied to a support gives a fragrancing composition.
  • This support may be cosmetic, dermatological, alcoholic, aqueous-alcoholic, or a mixture of solvents.
  • volatile solvent means any solvent of the perfume concentrate having a vapour pressure of greater than or equal to 0.01 kPa at 293.15 K or greater than 0.1 mmHg.
  • volatile organic compound means any organic compound having a vapour pressure of greater than or equal to 0.01 kPa at 293.15 K or greater than 0.1 mmHg.
  • physiologically acceptable medium means a non-toxic medium that can be applied to human keratin materials including the skin, the face, the lips, the nails, the hair and the scalp or that can be diffused into the atmosphere, in the ambient air.
  • strain devices of the invention include a spraying mechanism comprising at least one outlet orifice for the fragrancing product.
  • the spraying mechanism may comprise a single orifice or may comprise several orifices and especially a plurality of perforations in a membrane (in the case of piezoelectric devices).
  • spraying devices that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of: (i) pressurized devices of aerosol type that comprise at least one container comprising the fragrancing composition and at least one propellent gas. Mounted on the said container is a diffusion mechanism equipped with a valve and a push button comprising a conduit for feeding one or more spraying orifices.
  • the said orifice(s) may be defined by a connected nozzle.
  • the nozzle may be of the direct output type or a vortex-channel nozzle.
  • the diameter of the nozzles generally ranges from 150 ⁇ to 1000 ⁇ .
  • devices equipped with a pump that comprise at least one container comprising the fragrancing composition.
  • a diffusion mechanism that comprises a pump and a push button comprising a conduit for feeding one or more spraying orifices.
  • the said orifice(s) may be formed directly in the push button or via a connected nozzle.
  • the diameter of the spraying nozzle(s) may range from 150 ⁇ to 1000 ⁇ .
  • - devices of piezoelectric type that generally comprise a plurality of spraying orifices within a perforated membrane.
  • the diameter of the spraying orifices(s) will be less than or equal to 150 ⁇ , more preferentially from 4 to 150 ⁇ , even more preferentially from 2 to 50 ⁇ and more particularly from 5 to 20 ⁇ .
  • a spraying device comprising a container containing the said liquid cosmetic composition, equipped with a piezoelectric spraying mechanism for spraying the cosmetic composition in the form of droplets.
  • the term "piezoelectric spraying system” means a system that nebulizes a liquid under the action of an ultrasonic energy of suitable frequency and power, the energy being produced by a piezoelectric material (transducer) excited by a high-frequency electrical signal.
  • the piezoelectric spraying device may comprise:
  • the perforations of the membrane preferably have inverted conicity, i.e. a surface area in cross section that is greater on the outer surface of the membrane, facing the external environment, than on the inner surface, facing the interior of the container.
  • the spraying device may also comprise a pressure offset means, as described in patent application WO 95/15822, providing reduced pressure to the liquid in contact with the inner surface of the membrane.
  • the reduced pressure may vary from zero pressure to the pressure at which the air is sucked through the perforations of the membrane in contact with the composition.
  • the perforations, on the outer surface of the membrane are not touching.
  • the actuator is a piezoelectric actuator, for example designed to make the membrane vibrate within a frequency range that may be, for example, from 20 kHz to 7 MHz.
  • the energy required to operate the piezoelectric actuator may be obtained by means of an electric generator, for example an electric cell, a battery or a photovoltaic cell that may be optionally coupled to an electronic circuit.
  • the means for conveying the liquid cosmetic composition to the surface of the membrane may comprise a capillary-action feed mechanism, or alternatively a bubble-generating feed mechanism or a pump of peristaltic, membrane, piston or gear type.
  • a capillary-action feed mechanism or alternatively a bubble-generating feed mechanism or a pump of peristaltic, membrane, piston or gear type.
  • Such mechanisms are described, for example, in international patent application WO 95/15822.
  • all the perforations have inverted conicity, or, conversely, the membrane furthermore comprises perforations of normal conicity.
  • perforations of normal conicity means perforations whose surface area in cross section is smaller on the outer surface of the membrane, facing the external environment, than on the inner surface, facing the interior of the container.
  • perforations of normal conicity When perforations of normal conicity are present, they are preferably arranged around and to the exterior of the perforations of inverted conicity.
  • the means for conveying the liquid cosmetic composition to the surface of the membrane may be designed to convey the said composition onto the inner surface of the said membrane, or, conversely, may be designed to convey the said composition onto the outer surface of the said membrane.
  • Such variants of the spraying device are described, for example, in international patent application WO 95/15822.
  • the membrane may be formed from a circular disc 8 mm in diameter, of electroformed nickel 70 ⁇ thick, having a plurality of perforations.
  • the perforations may have a surface area in cross section in the form of a circular disc whose diameter ranges from 4 to 150 ⁇ on the outer surface of the membrane, facing the external environment, and, on the inner surface, facing the interior of the container, a surface area in cross section in the form of a circular disc whose diameter ranges from 2 to 50 ⁇ , for example from 10 to 20 ⁇ .
  • the cosmetic composition emerges in the form of droplets whose mean diameter is preferably between 20 and 100 ⁇ and even more preferably between 30 and 60 ⁇ .
  • a device that allows easy replacement of a cartridge containing one product to be diffused with another cartridge containing a different product, while at the same time having cartridges made at a cost that is compatible with large-scale diffusion.
  • a spraying device as disclosed by WO 06/125 677 may be used. It is a spraying device comprising a ring made partially of piezoelectric material and a perforated membrane made to vibrate by the ring, in which device the perforated membrane is held in the ring by gripping; the piezoelectric device comprising a container for feeding the perforated membrane with product to be sprayed.
  • a spraying assembly such as the one disclosed in US 4 702 418 may be used.
  • This assembly comprises an apparatus provided with an exciting member and a cartridge received in the apparatus, comprising a pressure chamber delimited on one side by a deformable wall that comes into contact with the exciting member and on the other side by a perforated grille via which droplets of product are ejected, in the axis of the region of the deformable wall that comes into contact with the exciting member.
  • the exciting member may be an integral part of a housing receiving the cartridge.
  • composition according to the invention contains one or more liquid volatile linear alkane(s).
  • liquid volatile linear alkane(s) means, without preference, "one or more liquid volatile linear alkane oil(s)”.
  • a volatile linear alkane that is suitable for use in the invention is liquid at room temperature (about 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • volatile linear alkane that is suitable for use in the invention means a cosmetic linear alkane, which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 101 325 Pa), which is liquid at room temperature, especially having an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg/cm 2 /minute, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the "volatile linear alkanes” that are suitable for use in the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg/cm 2 /minute, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for use in the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 1 .5 mg/cm 2 /minute, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for use in the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.8 mg/cm 2 /minute, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the "volatile linear alkanes” that are suitable for use in the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.3 mg/cm 2 /minute, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Even more preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes” that are suitable for use in the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.12 mg/cm 2 /minute, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the evaporation rate of a volatile alkane in accordance with the invention may especially be evaluated by means of the protocol described in WO 06/013 413, and more particularly by means of the protocol described below.
  • the liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, while providing ventilation by means of a ventilator (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed vertically above the crystallizing dish containing the volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent, the blades being directed toward the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish.
  • a ventilator Paperst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm
  • the mass of volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular time intervals.
  • the evaporation profile of the solvent is then obtained by plotting the curve of the amount of product evaporated (in mg/cm 2 ) as a function of time (in minutes). The evaporation rate is then calculated, which corresponds to the tangent to the origin of the curve obtained. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of volatile solvent evaporated per unit area (cm 2 ) and per unit of time (minutes).
  • the "volatile linear alkanes” that are suitable for use in the invention have a non-zero vapour pressure (also known as the saturating vapour pressure), at room temperature, in particular a vapour pressure ranging from 0.3 Pa to 6000 Pa.
  • a non-zero vapour pressure also known as the saturating vapour pressure
  • the "volatile linear alkanes” that are suitable for use in the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 0.3 to 2000 Pa, at room temperature (25°C).
  • the "volatile linear alkanes” that are suitable for use in the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 0.3 to 1000 Pa, at room temperature (25°C).
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for use in the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 0.4 to 600 Pa, at room temperature (25°C).
  • the "volatile linear alkanes” that are suitable for use in the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 1 to 200 Pa, at room temperature (25°C).
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for use in the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 3 to 60 Pa, at room temperature (25°C).
  • a volatile linear alkane that is suitable for use in the invention may have a flash point that is in the range from 30 to 120°C and more particularly from 40 to 100°C. The flash point is in particular measured according to standard ISO 3679.
  • an alkane that is suitable for use in the invention may be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • the "volatile linear alkanes” that are suitable for use in the invention comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • the "volatile linear alkanes” that are suitable for use in the invention comprise from 9 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • the "volatile linear alkanes” that are suitable for use in the invention comprise from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • the "volatile linear alkanes” that are suitable for use in the invention comprise from 1 1 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • the "volatile linear alkanes” that are suitable for use in the invention have an evaporation rate, as defined above, ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg/cm 2 /minute, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • a volatile linear alkane that is suitable for use in the invention may advantageously be of plant origin.
  • the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes present in the composition according to the invention comprises at least one 14 C (carbon-14) carbon isotope.
  • the 14 C isotope may be present in a C/ 12 C ratio of greater than or equal to 1 *10 "16 , preferably greater than or equal to 1 *10 "15 , more preferably greater than or equal to 7.5*10 "14 and better still greater than or equal to 1 .5*10 "13 .
  • the ratio 14 C/ 12 C ranges from 6x10 "13 to 1 .2x10 "12 .
  • the amount of 14 C isotopes in the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes may be determined via methods known to those skilled in the art such as the Libby compacting method, liquid scintillation spectrometry or accelerator mass spectrometry.
  • Such an alkane may be obtained, directly or in several steps, from a plant raw material, such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc.
  • alkanes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in patents WO 2007/068 371 or WO 2008/155 059 of the company Cognis (mixtures of different alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.
  • linear alkanes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C 7 ), n-octane (Cs), n-nonane (Cg), n-decane (Cio), n- undecane (Cn), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13) and n-tetradecane (CM), and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane and n- tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • n- undecane Cn
  • n-tridecane C13
  • Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (Ci 4 ) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile linear alkane may also be used alone.
  • a mixture of two different volatile liquid linear alkanes differing from each other by a carbon number n of at least 1 , in particular differing from each other by a carbon number of 1 or 2, may be used.
  • a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1 may be used, examples that may especially be mentioned include mixtures of volatile linear C10/C11 , Cn/C-12, or C12/C13 alkanes.
  • a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2 may be used.
  • a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of C11/C13 volatile linear alkanes or a mixture of C12/C14 volatile linear alkanes, is used.
  • mixtures combining more than two volatile linear alkanes according to the invention for instance a mixture of at least three different volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1 , also form part of the invention, but mixtures of two volatile linear alkanes according to the invention are preferred (binary mixtures), the said two volatile linear alkanes preferably representing more than 95% and better still more than 99% by weight of the total content of volatile linear alkanes in the mixture.
  • the volatile linear alkane having the smaller carbon number is predominant in the mixture.
  • a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in which the volatile linear alkane having the larger carbon number is predominant in the mixture is used.
  • the said mixture of alkanes according to the invention contains:
  • a volatile linear alkane that is suitable for use in the invention may be used in the form of an n-undecane/n-tridecane mixture.
  • the mixture of alkanes is an n- undecane/n-tridecane mixture.
  • such a mixture may be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/1 55 059.
  • the n-dodecane sold under the reference Parafol 1 2-97 by Sasol or under the references Vegelight 1 2 or Vegelight 1 2-99 by the company Biosynthis is used.
  • the n-tetradecane sold under the reference Parafol 1 4-97 by Sasol or under the reference Vegelight 1 4 by the company Biosynthis is used.
  • a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used.
  • a mixture of volatile linear alkanes comprising at least n-dodecane and n- tetradecane in proportions representing at least 90% by weight of the said mixture, preferentially at least 95% by weight, in particular at least 97% by weight, relative to its total weight, of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used more particularly.
  • the mixture of alkanes in accordance with the invention may be formed solely from n-dodecane and n-tetradecane.
  • the proportion of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane represents about 1 00% by weight of the said mixture.
  • n-dodecane and the n-tetradecane that may be used to form the mixture of alkanes in accordance with the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. They may advantageously be of plant origin.
  • an n-dodecane/n-tetradecane mixture (C12/C14) is used, comprising:
  • CM volatile liquid linear alkane n-tetradecane
  • the mass content of n-tetradecane in the mixture of alkanes in accordance with the invention is strictly greater than 50% by weight relative to the weight of the said mixture. It is thus in particular strictly greater than the mass content of n-dodecane in this mixture.
  • the mass proportion of n-tetradecane may be, for example, greater than or equal to 52% by weight, for example between 52% and 98% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 54% by weight, for example between 54% and 96% by weight, for example greater than or equal to 56% by weight, for example between 56% and 94% by weight, for example greater than or equal to 60% by weight, for example greater than or equal to 70% by weight, for example greater than or equal to 80% by weight, for example greater than or equal to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture of alkanes in accordance with the invention.
  • the mass proportion of n-dodecane may be, for example, less than or equal to 48 % by weight, for example between 2% and 48 % by weight, for example less than or equal to 46% by weight, for example between 4% and 46% by weight, for example less than or equal to 44% by weight, for example between 6% and 44% by weight, for example less than or equal to 40% by weight, for example less than or equal to 30% by weight for example less than or equal to 20% by weight, for example less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture of alkanes in accordance with the invention.
  • the [n-tetradecane/n-dodecane] mass ratio may range, for example, from 1 .01 to 9, for example from 1 .01 to 4, for example from 1 .01 to 3, for example from 1 .01 to 2, for example from 1 .01 to 1 .80, preferably from 1 .02 to 1 .60 and in particular from 1 .05 to 1 .4.
  • n-tetradecane may represent 51 % to 98% by weight of the said mixture, preferably from 51 % to 90% by weight of the said mixture example from 51 % to 80% by weight of the said mixture, for example from 51 % to 70% by weight of the said mixture, for example from 51 % to 60% by weight of the said mixture, or even from 52% to 55% by weight of the said mixture, and the n- dodecane from 2% to 49% by weight of the said mixture, for example from 10% to 49% by weight of the said mixture, for example from 20% to 49% by weight of the said mixture, for example from 30% to 49% by weight of the said mixture, for example from 40% to 49% by weight, or even from 45% to 48% by weight of the said mixture.
  • impurities such as other hydrocarbons (especially decane, hexane or isohexadecane) may, however, be present in trace amount, i.e. in proportions of less than 5% by weight, for example less than 3% by weight and preferably less than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the said mixture.
  • the volatile linear alkane(s) in accordance with the invention are preferably present in contents ranging from 60% to 99% by weight and preferably from 60% to 79 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Perfumes are compositions especially containing the starting materials described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, N.J ., 1969), in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, N.J ., 1960) and in Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991 , Allured Publishing Co., Wheaton, III.
  • They may be natural products (essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins or concretes) and/or synthetic products (terpene or sesquiterpene hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles and peroxides, which are saturated or unsaturated, and aliphatic or cyclic).
  • an essential oil is an odoriferous product generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam entrainment, or by dry distillation, or via an appropriate mechanical process without heating (cold pressing).
  • the essential oil is usually separated from the aqueous phase via a physical process that does not result in any significant change in the composition.
  • the choice of technique depends mainly on the starting material: its original state and its characteristics, its actual nature.
  • the "essential oil/plant starting material” yield may be extremely variable depending on the plant: 15 ppm to more than 20%. This choice conditions the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular viscosity, colour, solubility, volatility, richness or poorness in certain constituents.
  • Steam entrainment corresponds to vaporization in the presence of steam of a sparingly water-miscible substance.
  • the starting material is placed in contact with boiling water or steam in an alambic.
  • the steam entrains the essential oil vapour, which is condensed in the condenser and recovered as a liquid phase in a Florentine vase (or essence jar) where the essential oil is separated from the water by settling.
  • the aqueous distillate that remains after the steam entrainment, once the separation of the essential oil has been performed, is known as the "aromatic water” or "hydrolate” or "distilled floral water”. Dry distillation
  • the essential oil is obtained by distillation of woods, barks or roots, without addition of water or steam, in a closed chamber designed so that the liquid is recovered at the bottom.
  • Cade oil is the best known example of a product obtained in this way.
  • This production method applies only to citrus fruits (Citrus spp.) via mechanical processes at room temperature.
  • Principle of the method is as follows: the zests are torn into pieces and the contents of the secretory sacs that have been broken are recovered by a physical process.
  • the standard process consists in exerting an abrasive action on the entire surface of the fruit under a stream of water. After removal of the solid waste, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation.
  • the majority of industrial installations allow simultaneous or sequential recovery of the fruit juices and of the essential oil.
  • Phvsicochemical characteristics Essential oils are generally volatile and liquid at room temperature, which distinguishes them from “set” oils. They are more or less coloured and their density is generally less than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most of them deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble in the usual organic solvents, entrainable with steam, and very sparingly soluble in water.
  • Apiaceae for example Umbelliferae: dill, angelica, coriander, sea fennel, carrot, parsley
  • Asteraceae yarrow, artemisia, camomile, helichrysum
  • Geraniaceae geranium
  • Hernandiaceae Hypericaceae St-John's wort
  • Lamiaceae thyme, oregano, monarda, savory, basil, marjorams, mints, patchouli, lavenders, sages, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, balm
  • Magnoliaceae magnolia
  • Myrtaceae eucalyptus, tea tree, paperbark tree, cajuput, backhousia, clove, myrtle
  • Thymelaceae agar wood
  • Verbenaceae lantana, verbena
  • Zingiberaceae galangal, turmeric, cardamom, ginger
  • fragrancing substances are especially: geraniol, geranyl acetate, farnesol, borneol, bornyl acetate, linolool, linalyl acetate, linalyl propionate, linalyl butyrate, tetrahydrolinolool, citronellol, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, citronellyl propionate, dihydromyrcenol, dihydromyrcenyl acetate, tetrahydromyrcenol, terpineol, terpinyl acetate, nopol, nopyl acetate, nerol, neryl acetate, 2-phenylethanol, 2-phenylethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, styrallyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, amyl sal
  • a mixture of different fragrancing substances that generate in common a note that is pleasant to the user is used.
  • the fragrancing substances will preferably be chosen such that they produce notes (head, heart and base) in the following families:
  • the fragrancing compositions of the invention preferably contain from 1 % to 40% by weight of fragrancing substance, better still from 2% to 30% by weight and in particular from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fragrancing compositions of the invention may be in aqueous form and may also contain at least one volatile alcohol.
  • volatile alcohol means any compound containing at least one hydroxyl group and in which more than 95% by weight of the compound is capable of evaporating in less than one hour at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) on contact with a keratin materials such as the skin or the hair.
  • the volatile alcohols in accordance with the present invention are preferably chosen from C1 -C5 lower monoalcohols, which may be chosen from methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol and t-butanol, and more particularly ethanol.
  • Their viscosity at 20°C, measured with a Haake RheoStress 600 machine, with a rotor 60 mm in diameter, an angle of 2° and a shear rate of 200 s "1 is preferably from 0.3 to 3 mPa.s.
  • aqueous galenical form for topical use that is suited to spraying devices may be used.
  • the aqueous fragrancing compositions may especially be in the form of an aqueous-organic solution, or an emulsion obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or conversely (W/O).
  • the composition is in the form of an aqueous- organic lotion.
  • the fragrancing compositions according to the invention may also be in anhydrous form, which may contain at least one volatile alcohol as defined previously.
  • anhydrous composition means a composition containing less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1 % by weight of water, even more preferentially less than 0.5% by weight of water, and will especially be free of water.
  • the fragrancing anhydrous composition will contain less than 5% by weight of volatile alcohol relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1 % by weight of volatile alcohol, even more preferentially less than 0.5% by weight of volatile alcohol, and will especially be free of volatile alcohol.
  • the fragrancing anhydrous composition will contain more than 5% by weight of volatile alcohol relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • volatile alcohol(s) are present in this case in amounts preferably ranging from 5% to 80%, more preferentially in amounts ranging from 10% to 50% and more particularly from 10% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the viscosity of the fragrancing composition is less than or equal to 8 mPa.s and will vary as a function of its use (skin or ambient air). It will preferably range from 1 to 8 mPa.s.
  • This viscosity is measured at 20°C using a Haake RheoStress 600 machine with a rotor 60 mm in diameter, an angle of 2° and a sandy coating at a shear rate of 200 s-1 . The machine gives an average of the values, over a time interval of 2 minutes.
  • composition of the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field of perfumes, chosen especially from antioxidants, fatty substances such as oils (plant, mineral or synthetic oils such as esters or perfluoroethers), cosmetic or dermatological active agents, for instance emollients or softeners such as sweet almond oil or apricot kernel oil, moisturizers such as glycerol, calmatives such ascc-bisabolol, allantoin or Aloe vera; vitamins, essential fatty acids, insect repellents, propellants, peptizers, fillers, non-volatile solvents, UV-screening agents, stabilizers or preserving agents, structuring agents, gelling agents or thickeners, dyes, nacres and glitter flakes, and mixtures thereof.
  • these additives may be present in an amount ranging from 0.001 % to 10% and better still from 0.01 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • antioxidants examples that may be mentioned include BHA (tert-butyl- 4-hydroxyanisole), BHT (2,6-bis-tert-butyl-p-cresol), and tocopherols such as vitamin E and derivatives thereof, for instance tocopheryl acetate.
  • BHA tert-butyl- 4-hydroxyanisole
  • BHT 2,6-bis-tert-butyl-p-cresol
  • tocopherols such as vitamin E and derivatives thereof, for instance tocopheryl acetate.
  • composition according to the invention may especially comprise at least one dyestuff such as liposoluble dyes and water-soluble dyes.
  • the soluble dyes are, for example: caramel, Yellow 5, Acid Blue 9/Blue 1 , Green 5, Green 3/Fast Green FCF 3, Orange 4, Red 4/Food Red 1 , Yellow 6, Acid Red 33/Food Red 12, Red 40, cochineal carmine (CI 15850, CI 75470), Ext. Violet 2, Red 6-7, Ferric Ferrocyanide, Ultramarines, Acid yellow 3/Yellow 10, Acid Blue 3, Yellow 10.
  • the liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, ⁇ - carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 1 1 , D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow and annatto.
  • the non-volatile solvents in accordance with the present invention are preferably chosen from esters, ethers, polyols and fatty alcohols.
  • Their viscosity will will preferably range from 1 to 120 mPa.s. This viscosity is measured at 20°C using a Haake RheoStress 600 machine with a rotor 60 mm in diameter, an angle of 2° and a sandy coating at a shear rate of 200 s-1 .
  • Their density is preferably less than 1 . This density may be measured at 20°C using a Mettler-Toledo DE 45 densimeter.
  • non-volatile solvents examples include 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, dicaprylyl ether, octyldodecanol, triethyl citrate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate.
  • a subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for fragrancing keratin materials or a textile material (clothing), comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition as defined above.
  • a subject of the invention is also a process for fragrancing ambient air, comprising at least one step of spraying a fragrancing composition using a device as defined previously.
  • Each of these fragrancing formulations is incorporated into a piezoelectric spraying device as described in patent application WO 06/125 677, comprising a cartridge for feeding the perforated membrane with product to be sprayed.
  • the cartridges are filled with 5 g of each of formulae 1 to 6.
  • the assembly [piezoelectric diffuser + cartridge] is weighed at T 0 .
  • the spray cloud represents the cloud of perfume formed above the diffuser for each puff of fragrancing solution.
  • the spraying devices 1 , 3, 5 and 6 of the invention comprising a fragrancing formulation based on a volatile linear C 7 -Ci 4 alkane or mixture of alkanes show excellent resumption of diffusion after stoppage, in contrast with the spraying devices 2 and 4 based on an alcoholic fragrancing formulation, which require priming in order to function again.
  • the nature of the perfume A or B has no influence on the results obtained.

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Abstract

La présente invention porte sur un dispositif de pulvérisation particulier comprenant une composition liquide parfumante comprenant au moins un parfum, au moins un alcane linéaire liquide volatil ou un mélange d'alcanes linéaires liquides volatils. La présente invention porte sur un ensemble comprenant : (A) une composition parfumante liquide comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable : (i) au moins 1 % en poids d'un concentré de parfum par rapport au poids total de la composition ; (ii) au moins un alcane linéaire liquide volatil ou un mélange d'alcanes linéaires liquides volatils ; (B) un dispositif de pulvérisation comprenant un récipient contenant ladite composition et un mécanisme de pulvérisation comprenant au moins un orifice de pulvérisation ayant un diamètre particulier. La présente invention porte également sur un procédé servant à parfumer des matières kératiniques humaines et en particulier la peau, les lèvres, les cheveux, le cuir chevelu ou les ongles, comprenant au moins une étape de pulvérisation d'une composition parfumante à l'aide d'un dispositif tel que défini ci-dessus. La présente invention porte également sur un procédé servant à parfumer l'air ambiant, comprenant au moins une étape de pulvérisation d'une composition parfumante à l'aide d'un dispositif tel que défini ci-dessus.
PCT/EP2011/057717 2010-05-20 2011-05-12 Dispositifs pour la pulvérisation d'une composition parfumante comprenant au moins un alcane linéaire liquide volatil et procédés servant à parfumer WO2011144519A1 (fr)

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FR1053910 2010-05-20
FR1053910A FR2960148B1 (fr) 2010-05-20 2010-05-20 Dispositifs de pulverisation d'une composition parfumante comprenant au moins un alcane lineaire liquide volatil ; procedes de parfumage
US34721910P 2010-05-21 2010-05-21
US61/347,219 2010-05-21

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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FR3003753A1 (fr) * 2013-03-29 2014-10-03 Lvmh Rech Composition hydro-alcoolique parfumante contenant un ether aliphatique
US10376459B2 (en) * 2012-12-21 2019-08-13 L'oreal Combination of active agents comprising at least one essential oil, one cyclodextrin and one liquid fatty substance and composition comprising it
CN110793619A (zh) * 2019-10-29 2020-02-14 歌尔股份有限公司 一种压电喷胶***的检测方法和装置
WO2020047535A1 (fr) * 2018-08-31 2020-03-05 Honeywell International Inc. Compositions de spray de soins d'hygiène personnelle et procédés comprenant du trans-1-chloro-3,3,3-trifluoropropène

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Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US10376459B2 (en) * 2012-12-21 2019-08-13 L'oreal Combination of active agents comprising at least one essential oil, one cyclodextrin and one liquid fatty substance and composition comprising it
FR3003753A1 (fr) * 2013-03-29 2014-10-03 Lvmh Rech Composition hydro-alcoolique parfumante contenant un ether aliphatique
WO2014155019A3 (fr) * 2013-03-29 2015-03-05 Lvmh Recherche Composition alcoolique ou hydro-alcoolique parfumante contenant un ether aliphatique
WO2020047535A1 (fr) * 2018-08-31 2020-03-05 Honeywell International Inc. Compositions de spray de soins d'hygiène personnelle et procédés comprenant du trans-1-chloro-3,3,3-trifluoropropène
CN110793619A (zh) * 2019-10-29 2020-02-14 歌尔股份有限公司 一种压电喷胶***的检测方法和装置

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