WO2010070138A2 - Use of water-repellent compounds as agents for the treatment of perspiration and method for the cosmetic treatment of perspiration employing the said agent - Google Patents

Use of water-repellent compounds as agents for the treatment of perspiration and method for the cosmetic treatment of perspiration employing the said agent Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2010070138A2
WO2010070138A2 PCT/EP2009/067644 EP2009067644W WO2010070138A2 WO 2010070138 A2 WO2010070138 A2 WO 2010070138A2 EP 2009067644 W EP2009067644 W EP 2009067644W WO 2010070138 A2 WO2010070138 A2 WO 2010070138A2
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Prior art keywords
water
repellent
group
saccharide
compounds
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PCT/EP2009/067644
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French (fr)
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WO2010070138A3 (en
Inventor
Roxane Gavillon
Jean-Thierry Simonnet
Odile Aubrun
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2010070138A3 publication Critical patent/WO2010070138A3/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046Aerosols; Foams
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4913Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8105Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8111Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/893Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by an alkoxy or aryloxy group, e.g. behenoxy dimethicone or stearoxy dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/87Application Devices; Containers; Packaging
    • A61K2800/874Roll-on

Definitions

  • water-repellent compounds as agents for the treatment of perspiration and method for the cosmetic treatment of perspiration employing the said agent
  • the present invention relates to the use of one or more water- repellent compounds in the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration.
  • the invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration and optionally the body odours related to human perspiration, in particular axillary odours, which consist in applying, to the skin, one or more water-repellent compounds as defined below.
  • the armpits and some other parts of the body are generally the site of discomfort of several types which can originate directly or indirectly from perspiration phenomena. These phenomena often cause unpleasant and troublesome sensations which are mainly due to the presence of the sweat resulting from the perspiration, which can in some cases make the skin sweaty and the clothes wet, in particular at the armpits or on the back, thus leaving visible marks. Furthermore, the presence of the sweat can bring about the release of generally unpleasant body odours. Finally, during its evaporation, the sweat can also leave behind salts and/or proteins at the surface of the skin, which can cause off-white marks on the clothes. Such uncomfortable effects are to be taken into account, including in the case of moderate perspiration.
  • antiperspirant products comprising substances which have the effect of limiting, indeed even of suppressing, the flow of sweat in order to overcome the abovementioned problems.
  • These products are generally available in the roll-on, sticks, aerosol or spray form.
  • Antiperspirant substances are generally composed o f aluminium salts, such as aluminium chloride and aluminium hydroxyhalides, or of aluminium and zirconium complexes. These substances make it possible to reduce the flow of sweat by forming a plug in the sweat duct.
  • the use of these substances at high concentrations, in particular in a content ranging from 15 to 20% by weight, for the purpose of obtaining good antiperspirant effectiveness generally results in difficulties in formulating.
  • antiperspirant substances can also leave marks when applied to the skin, the consequence of which is to stain the clothes.
  • the flow of sweat can be limited by partially blocking the sweat ducts by virtue of the formation of a plug in the sweat duct but also by the formation, at the surface of the skin, of an adhesive or nonadhesive film which is persistent towards sweat.
  • anhydrous and nonadhesive antiperspirant compositions comprising at least one cyanoacrylate monomer which is reactive towards water, an anhydrous medium, a polymerization inhibitor and an active substance chosen from a deodorant substance, an antiperspirant substance, a scenting substance or a mixture of these substances.
  • the cyanoacrylate monomers used in such compositions polymerize by the anionic route directly on the surface of the skin in the presence of a nucleophilic agent, such as hydroxide ions (OH " ), present in the water, to form a water-resistant polymeric film.
  • the cyanoacrylate monomers react with the sweat to form in situ, by anionic polymerization, a film on the skin which makes it possible to plug the sweat ducts.
  • these occlusive film-forming polymers do not make it possible to obtain an entirely satisfactory antiperspirant effectiveness and also give rise to formulation problems.
  • Patent Application WO 2006/028612 describes a method comprising a first stage which consists in applying, to the skin, an adhesive silicone which is subsequently subjected to a heat treatment and a second stage which consists in applying an antiperspirant compound to the surface of the adhesive. This method makes it possible to facilitate the application of the antiperspirant compound.
  • Patent Application US 2007/0053959 describes a patch provided with a layer comprising an antiperspirant agent and/or a deodorant agent which is surmounted by a protective layer.
  • the method consists, in a first stage, in applying the patch to the surface of the skin, in order to deposit the antiperspirant agent and/or the deodorant agent, and, in a second stage, in removing the protective layer.
  • Patent Application EP 1 095 959 describes copolymers comprising a siloxane portion grafted to a polysaccharide portion which make it possible to improve the conditioning properties of cosmetic compositions.
  • the Applicant Company has discovered, surprisingly, that it is possible to employ, on the skin, water-repellent compounds having the desired properties, that is to say which make it possible to effectively treat human perspiration while exhibiting a toxicological profile suitable for the skin and being able to be easily formulated in products intended to reduce perspiration.
  • a subject-matter of the present invention is thus in particular the use of one or more water-repellent compounds as agent for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration.
  • Agent for the treatment of perspiration is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, any substance which, by itself alone, has the effect of reducing or limiting the flow of sweat.
  • the use of one or more water-repellent compounds makes it possible to confer an antiperspirant effect.
  • the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, one or more specific water-repellent compounds as defined above in the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration.
  • Another subject-matter of the present invention also consists o f a method for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration and, optionally, the body odours related to human perspiration, in particular axillary odours, which consists in applying, to the skin, one or more water-repellent compounds.
  • the invention also relates to a composition packaged and pressurized in an aerosol device or in a pump-action spray, packaged in a device equipped with a ball applicator or else packaged in a device equipped with an openwork wall, which comprises one or more water-repellent compounds.
  • Water-repellent compound is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a compound which is capable o f reducing the surface tension of the wall of the sweat duct, so as to limit the rise of the sweat in this same duct.
  • Water-repellent compound is therefore understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a compound which is capable of repelling water and penetrating into supports in order to impregnate them and confer hydrophobic properties.
  • the water-repellent compound or compounds used according to the invention are hydrophobic, that is to say that these compounds exhibit an HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) value of less than 2.
  • the water-repellent compound or compounds used according to the invention are chosen from (i) hydrophobic polyorganosiloxanes, (ii) water-repellent alkyl compounds, (iii) water-repellent alkoxysilane compounds and/or (iv) insoluble organic salts.
  • hydrophobic polyorganosiloxanes are chosen from polyorganosiloxanes comprising one or more units of formula
  • b is equal to 1 , 2 or 3 , and, more preferably, b is equal to 1.
  • the said polyorganosiloxanes comprising units of formula (I) can be linear polymers which can optionally exhibit up to 50% by weight of branchings, cyclic polymers or three-dimensional polymers
  • the resins exhibit, in their structure, at least two different units chosen from those of formula R 3 SiOcS (M unit), R 2 SiO (D unit), RSiOi .5 (T unit) or SiO 2 (Q unit), one at least of these units being a T or Q unit.
  • the polyorganosiloxanes can comprise one or more saccharide groups.
  • X corresponds to a functional radical carrying a saccharide and/or a saccharide derivative.
  • the polyorganosiloxanes used according to the invention can thus also be chosen from copolymers comprising one or more siloxane units and one or more saccharide units, the content of siloxane units of which is greater than 60%.
  • the siloxane/saccharide copolymer used according to the invention comprises a silicone backbone comprising one or more saccharide, in particular monosaccharide, disaccharide, trisaccharide or tetrasaccharide, side and/or end groups.
  • the siloxane/saccharide copolymer can be obtained by reaction of a silicone comprising an amino side or end group with a cyclic lactone comprising an aldonolactone saccharide unit, for example gluconolactone (GL) or lactobiolactone (LBL), which are commercially available.
  • Gluconic acid which is present naturally in cells, is a polyhydroxy ⁇ -hydroxy aldonic acid.
  • Lactobionic acid (4-O- ⁇ -D- galactopyranosyl-D-gluconic acid) is composed of a galactose molecule which is connected to a gluconic acid molecule via a bond o f ether type. Lactobionic acid is formed by oxidation of the disaccharide lactose.
  • siloxane/saccharide copolymer can be chosen from the gluconamidosiloxanes and lactobionamidosiloxanes of formulae (II), (III) and (V) below:
  • gluconamidosiloxanes and lactobionamidosiloxanes of formulae (II), (III) and (V) can be prepared, for example, by the following synthetic schemes: Scheme 1 :
  • an aminosilicone is reacted with a sugar lactone (gluconolactone or lactobionolactone) in a solvent, preferably a dipolar aprotic solvent, such as, for example, tetrahydrofuran or acetonitrile, or without a solvent, at a temperature of between 25°C and 80 0 C.
  • a solvent preferably a dipolar aprotic solvent, such as, for example, tetrahydrofuran or acetonitrile, or without a solvent
  • the amino functional silicones of formulae (I) and (VI) preferably have a molecular weight of between 500 and 50 000 g/mol, preferably between 800 and 30 000 g/mol, and advantageously have an amine number, determined by NMR, of between 0.01 and 2 meq/g, preferably between 0.1 and 1.5 meq/g.
  • Rhodorsil P331 having an amine number of 0.3 meq/g, in 40 cm of tetrahydrofuran was slowly added to a suspension of 1.78 g (0.01 mol) of ⁇ -gluconolactone in 70 cm 3 of tetrahydrofuran and the mixture was stirred at 40 0 C for approximately 24 h. The lactone reacted completely (TLC monitoring). After evaporating to dryness under reduced pressure and then drying under vacuum at ambient temperature for 24 h, 34.9 g of gluconamidopropylpolydimethylsiloxane was obtained in the form of a colourless viscous oil.
  • Rhodorsil P332 having an amine number of 0.15 meq/g, in 80 cm 3 of tetrahydrofuran was slowly added to a suspension of 1.78 g (0.01 mol) of ⁇ -gluconolactone in 70 cm 3 of tetrahydrofuran and the mixture was stirred at 40 0 C for approximately 24 h. The lactone reacted completely (TLC monitoring). After evaporating to dryness under reduced pressure and then drying under vacuum at ambient temperature for 24 h, 68.1 g of gluconamidopropylpolydimethylsiloxane was obtained in the form of a colourless and very viscous oil.
  • the 1 H NMR spectrum (CDCI3) is in accordance with the expected structure. Titration of the amino groups with perchloric acid shows a conversion of greater than 95%.
  • Rhodorsil P331 having an amine number of 0.3 meq/g, in 40 cm 3 of tetrahydrofuran was slowly added to a suspension of 3.4 g (0.01 mol) of lactobionolactone in 70 cm 3 of tetrahydrofuran and the mixture was stirred at 40 0 C for approximately 24 h. The lactone reacted completely (TLC monitoring). After evaporating to dryness under reduced pressure and then drying under vacuum at ambient temperature for 24 h, 34.9 g of lactobionamidopropylpolydimethylsiloxane was obtained in the form of a colourless viscous oil.
  • the 1 H NMR spectrum (CDCI3) is in accordance with the expected structure. Titration of the amino groups with perchloric acid shows a conversion of greater than 95%.
  • the copolymer of siloxane and of saccharide according to the invention exhibits the following formula:
  • R 2 a R 1 ( 3-a)SiO-[(SiR 2 R 1 O) m -(SiR 1 2 O) n ] y -SiR 1 (3-a) R 2 a
  • R 1 corresponds to a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C12 alkyl group, an organic group and an R 3 -Q group;
  • Q corresponds to a group chosen from the epoxy, cycloepoxy, primary amine, secondary amine, ethylenediamine, carboxyl, halogen, vinyl, allyl, anhydride and/or mercapto functional groups; m and n, which are identical or different, correspond to integers between 0 and 10 000, a can denote 0, 1 , 2 or 3 ; y is an integer such that the copolymer exhibits a molecular weight of less than 1 000 000; R 2 corresponds to the structure Z-(G 1 )b-(G 2 ) c , and the copolymer comprises at least one R 2 radical in which the G 1 group corresponds to a saccharide compound comprising from 5 to 12 carbon atoms; the sum b+c varies from 1 to 10, it being known that, if b or c is equal to 0, then b or c has to be equal to 1 , a varies from 0 to 3 ;
  • G 2 is a saccharide compound comprising from 5 to 12 carbon atoms substituted with organic or organosilicone radicals;
  • Z is a linking group connecting the portion composed of the organosiloxane polymer and the saccharide portion, Z being a group chosen from:
  • R 3 and R 4 which are identical or different, correspond to spacer groups of formula R 5 R 6 R 7 ;
  • R 5 and R 7 which are identical or different, correspond to a Ci - C 12 alkylene group or an (O(C 1 -C 12 )) P alkoxy group, p being an integer varying from 1 to 50;
  • R 6 corresponds to an -N(R 8 )- group, in which R 8 corresponds to a hydrogen atom or a Ci -Ci 2 alkyl group; in which the siloxane/saccharide copolymer is obtained by reaction between a functionalized organosiloxane polymer and at least one functional polyhydroxysaccharide so that the organosiloxane polymer is covalently bonded to the said polyhydroxysaccharide via the linking group Z.
  • the water-repellent polyorganosiloxanes can be chosen from glycerolated silicones, such as siloxane functionalized in the ⁇ , ⁇ positions with diglycerol.
  • the water-repellent polyorganosiloxanes used according to the invention are preferably copolymers comprising one or more siloxane units and one or more saccharide units, the content of siloxane units of which is greater than 60% by weight and preferably greater than
  • water-repellent polyorganosiloxanes can be chosen from the products sold under Dow Corning® XX-3002 Sugar Siloxane (XX-3002), Dow Corning® XX-3001 Sugar Siloxane (XX-
  • the water-repellent compound or compounds according to the invention can be chosen from alkyl water-repellent compounds, alkoxysilane water-repellent compounds and/or insoluble organic salts.
  • alkyl water-repellent compounds of alkane resins, such as polyolefins, for example the hydrogenated branched C 6 -C 2 O polyolefin sold under the name Eastotac Resin H- 142R.
  • alkoxysilane water- repellent compounds of the compound isobutyltriethoxysilane, the compound isobutyltrimethoxysilane or the compound (n- octyl)triethoxysilane, such as triethoxybutylsilane, such as, for example, the products DC Z-6689 and DC Z-6403 sold by Dow Corning.
  • Insoluble organic salts is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, organic salts having a solubility in water of less than 0.1 % by weight.
  • fatty acid carboxylates having a divalent counterion such as calcium stearate or magnesium stearate.
  • the water-repellent compound or compounds are chosen from copolymers comprising one or more siloxane units and one or more saccharide units, the content of the siloxane units o f which is greater than 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the copolymer, and alkyl compounds, in particular branched polyolefins, such as the hydrogenated C 6 -C 2 O polyolefin.
  • the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, one or more water-repellent compounds, as antiperspirant agent, chosen from:
  • hydrophobic polyorganosiloxanes comprising one or more units of formula (I) :
  • R are identical or different and represent a C 1 -C 1 8 alkyl group or a C 6 -Ci 2 aryl or arylalkyl group optionally substituted by halogen atoms (in particular fluorine); mention may be made, among the R radicals appearing in the formula (I), of the methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, tert-butyl, n-hexyl, octyl, trifluoropropyl or phenyl radical; preferably, at least 50 mol% of the R radicals represent a methyl group;
  • the symbols X are identical or different and represent a functional radical chosen from those carrying at least one epoxy, carboxyl, hydroxyl, alkoxy, amino, polyether, phosphate, phosphonate, ester, carboxylate, dicarboxyl, anhydride, saccharide and/or saccharide derivative unit; and the content by weight of the siloxane units is greater than 60% and preferably greater than 80%, with respect to the total weight of the polyorgano siloxane; (ii) water-repellent alkyl compounds,
  • b is equal to 1 , 2 or 3 and, more preferably, b is equal to 1.
  • X corresponds to a functional radical carrying a saccharide and/or a saccharide derivative.
  • the polyorganosiloxanes used according to the invention can thus also be chosen from copolymers comprising one or more siloxane units and one or more saccharide units, the content of siloxane units of which is greater than 60% by weight, preferably greater than 80% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the copolymer.
  • the water-repellent compound or compounds are present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the water-repellent compound or compounds can be dissolved or dispersed in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising one or more volatile oils and/or organic solvents.
  • Oil is understood to mean a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 105 Pa).
  • the oil can be volatile or non-volatile.
  • Volatile oil is understood to mean, within the meaning of the invention, an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratinous fibre in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa ( 10 ⁇ 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • Non-volatile oil is understood to mean an oil which remains on the skin or keratinous fibre, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and which has in particular a vapour pressure of less than 10 "3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • the oil can be chosen from any physiologically acceptable and in particular cosmetically acceptable oil, especially mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic oils, in particular volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon and/or silicone and/or fluorinated oils and their mixtures.
  • hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether or carboxyl functional groups. Generally, the oil exhibits a viscosity o f
  • volatile oil which can be used in the invention, of: - volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular Cs-Ci 6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the Isopar and Permethyl trade names, branched Cs-Ci 6 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate and their mixtures.
  • Cs-Ci 6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin also known as isoparaffins
  • isododecane also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane
  • isodecane or isohexadecane for example the oils sold under the Isopar and Permethyl trade names, branched Cs-Ci 6 esters, isohexyl
  • volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell SoIt by Shell, can also be used; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in Patent Applications WO2007/068371 and DE 2008012457 of Cognis, namely a mixture essentially consisting of undecane (Cn) and tridecane (Cn),
  • volatile silicones such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 x 10 "6 m 2 /s) and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, of octamethyl- cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane or dodecamethylpentasiloxane,
  • R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, one or more hydrogen atoms of which can be replaced by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
  • oils of general formula (I) Mention may be made, among the oils of general formula (I), of: 3 -butyl- 1 , 1 , 1 ,3 ,5 ,5 ,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, 3 -propyl- 1 , 1 , 1 ,3 ,5 ,5 ,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and 3 -ethyl- 1 , 1 , 1 ,3 ,5 ,5 ,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.
  • non-volatile oil which can be used in the invention, of: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; - vegetable hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or also wheat germ, olive, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkinseed, cucumber, blackcurrant seed, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose, sunflower, maize, soybean, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, castor or avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812
  • Ri COOR 2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with Ri + R 2 ⁇ 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C 15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate or tridecyl trimellitate; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohol
  • - fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature and which comprise a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol,
  • - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid
  • oils which optionally comprise a hydrocarbon and/or silicone part, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers or fluorosilicones, such as described in the document EP-A-847 752;
  • silicone oils such as non-volatile linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups or alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups at the end of the silicone chain, which groups have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethyl- siloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenyl- ethyl)trimethylsiloxy silicates, and - their mixtures.
  • PDMSs non-volatile linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes
  • phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phen
  • organic solvent for example, o f linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyolethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether; aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol; and their mixtures.
  • C2-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol
  • glycerol polyols and polyolethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether
  • aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol
  • the water-repellent compound or compounds according to the invention can also be conveyed in oil-in-water emulsions.
  • emulsifiers which can be used in oil- in-water emulsions or oil-in-water-in-oil triple emulsions, for example, of non-ionic emulsifiers, such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; sugar esters, such as sucrose stearate; and their mixtures, such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and of PEG-40 stea
  • fatty alcohol/alkylpolyglycoside emulsifying mixtures such as are described in Applications WO 92/06778, WO 95/13863 and WO 98/47610, for example the commercial products sold by SEPPIC under the Montanov® names.
  • the oil-in-water emulsions can be stabilized by surfactants, polymers, in particular associative polymers, or particles.
  • the oil-in-water emulsions are stabilized by one or more associative polymers, in particular anionic associative polymers.
  • Associative polymer is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, that the associative polymer is an amphiphilic polymer, that is to say that the latter comprises at least one fatty chain, and thus a hydrophobic part, and at least one hydrophilic part.
  • the molecules of these polymers are thus capable o f associating with one another or with molecules of associative agents, such as surfactants, which results in an improvement in the rheological properties of the compositions.
  • “Fatty chain” is understood to mean that the associative polymer comprises at least one linear or branched hydrocarbon group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the oil-in-water emulsions are stabilized by amphiphilic copolymers. Mention may be made, among these copolymers, of noncrosslinked 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) copolymers comprising a hydrophobic unit, such as those sold under the name Aristoflex LNC or SNC, or crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) copolymers, such as those sold under the name Aristoflex HMS or HMB.
  • AMPS 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulphonic acid
  • the oil-in-water emulsions can also be stabilized by anionic associative acrylic polymers, in particular those comprising, as monomers, one or more unsaturated carboxylic acids.
  • the unsaturated carboxylic acids which can be used in the polymers of the invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic and maleic acids.
  • R' denotes H or CH 3 ;
  • n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100;
  • R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl or cycloalkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24, and more particularly still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • a unit of formula (V) which is more particularly preferred is a unit in which R' denotes H, n is equal to 10 and R denotes a stearyl
  • a crosslinking agent which is a well known copolymerizable polyethylenically unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
  • polyoxyethylenated lauryl acrylate/alkyl acrylate/methacrylic acid terpolymers such as the product Rheo 2000 sold by Coatex
  • polyoxyethylenated stearyl methacrylate/alkyl acrylate/methacrylic acid copolymers such as the products Acrysol 22
  • the water-repellent compositions of the invention are provided in the liquid form. They preferably have a viscosity of less than 1000 times the viscosity of water, i.e. 10 poises, and preferably of less than 1 P.
  • compositions make it possible to lower in a lasting fashion the surface energy of the skin, the contact angle of water on the support (in particular the skin) being significantly increased.
  • the contact angle (water/support) on a support on which one o f the water-repellent agents is deposited is increased at least by 15°, with respect to the initial value of the support.
  • the contact angle after deposition of the water-repellent agent is at least 60° .
  • the compositions of the present patent application do not comprise aluminium salts conventionally used for their antiperspirant activity.
  • compositions according to the invention can also comprise one or more deodorant active principles.
  • the deodorant active principles can be bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether
  • zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate, zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate or zinc phenolsulphonate;
  • glycerol derivatives such as, for example, caprylic/capric glycerides (Capmul MCM from Abitec), glycerol caprylate or caprate (Dermosoft GMCY and Dermosoft GMC respectively from Straetmans) or polyglyceryl-2 caprate (Dermosoft DGMC from Straetmans);
  • compositions according to the invention can also comprise, in addition, one or more powders.
  • powders which can be used in the composition of the invention for example, of polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the Orgasol names by Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name o f Polytrap; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name Microsphere M- I OO by Matsumoto or under the name Covabead LH85 by Wackherr; ethylene/acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name Flobeads by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; expanded powders, such as hollow microspheres, in particular the microspheres formed of a terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, of acrylonitrile and of methacrylate sold under the name Expancel
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise an expanded amorphous mineral material comprising at least two elements chosen from silicon, aluminium and magnesium.
  • Mineral material is understood to mean, within the meaning of the invention, any material composed of inorganic substances.
  • Amorphous is understood to mean any material comprising less than 10% by weight of crystalline phase and preferably less than 5% by weight of crystalline phase, indeed even a totally noncrystalline material not having an ordered atomic structure.
  • “Expanded material” is understood to mean any material having a loose bulk density at 25 °C ranging from 10 to 400 kg/m 3
  • This density can in particular be the result of a treatment by a thermal process, in particular at a temperature ranging from 700 to 1500 0 C and preferably from 800 to 1 100 0 C.
  • the powder or powders can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 a 10%, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 7%.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can additionally comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from softening agents, antioxidants, opacifying agents, stabilizing agents, moisturizing agents, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, polymers, fragrances, thickening agents, propellants or any other ingredient normally used in cosmetics for this type of application.
  • cosmetic adjuvants chosen from softening agents, antioxidants, opacifying agents, stabilizing agents, moisturizing agents, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, polymers, fragrances, thickening agents, propellants or any other ingredient normally used in cosmetics for this type of application.
  • the thickeners preferably non-ionic thickeners, can be chosen from modified or unmodified guar gums and celluloses, such as hydroxypropylated guar gum or cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, or silicas, such as, for example, Bentone Gel MIO, sold by NL Industries, or Veegum Ultra, sold by Polyplastic.
  • the thickeners can also be cationic thickeners, such as, for example, Polyquaternium-37, sold under the name Salcare SC95 (Polyquaternium-37 (And) Mineral Oil (And) PPG- I Trideceth-6) or Salcare SC96 (Polyquaternium-37 (And) Propylene Glyco l Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (And) PPG- I Trideceth-6), or other crosslinked cationic polymers, such as, for example, those with the CTFA name
  • the amounts of these various constituents which can be present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are those conventionally used in compositions for the treatment of perspiration.
  • the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, one or more water-repellent compounds as defined above in the treatment of human perspiration.
  • the compositions according to the invention can also be pressurized and be packaged in an aerosol device composed of: (A) a container comprising an antiperspirant composition comprising one or more water-repellent compounds as defined above, (B) at least one propellant and one means for dispensing the said aerosol composition.
  • the propellants generally used in products of this type are such as, for example, dimethyl ether (DME), volatile hydrocarbons, such as n-butane, propane or isobutane, and their mixtures, optionally with at least one chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbon; mention may be made, among the latter, of the compounds sold by Dupont de Nemours under the Freon® and Dymel® names, in particular monofluorotrichloromethane, difluorodichloromethane, tetrafluorodichloroethane and 1 , 1 -difluoroethane, sold in particular under the trade name Dymel 152 A by Dupont. Use may also be made, as propellant, of carbon dioxide gas, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air.
  • DME dimethyl ether
  • volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane or isobutane
  • volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane or isobutane
  • the dispensing means which forms a part of the aerosol device, is generally composed of a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, itself comprising a nozzle via which the aerosol composition is vaporized.
  • the container comprising the pressurized composition can be opaque or transparent. It can be made of glass, of polymer or of metal, optionally covered with a protective lacquer layer.
  • the present invention relates to compositions packaged in the pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a pump-action spray, packaged in a device equipped with a ball applicator (roll-on) or else packaged in a device equipped with an openwork wall, in particular a grating, which comprise one or more water-repellent compounds.
  • Such compositions comprise, in this respect, the ingredients generally used in products of this type which are well known to a person skilled in the art.
  • compositions can thus be packaged in applicators of roll- on type or sprays or be applied to wipes.
  • present invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration which consists in applying a cosmetic composition comprising one or more water- repellent compounds.
  • the cosmetic composition comprising one or more water-repellent compounds can be applied to the skin and can be subsequently rinsed off.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is not rinsed off after application.
  • compositions according to the invention are prepared from the following ingredients; unless otherwise indicated, the percentages shown are by weight.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of one or more water- repellent compounds as defined in the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration. The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration and optionally the body odours related to human perspiration, in particular axillary odours, which consists in applying, to the skin, one or more specific water-repellent compounds.

Description

Use of water-repellent compounds as agents for the treatment of perspiration and method for the cosmetic treatment of perspiration employing the said agent
The present invention relates to the use of one or more water- repellent compounds in the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration. The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration and optionally the body odours related to human perspiration, in particular axillary odours, which consist in applying, to the skin, one or more water-repellent compounds as defined below.
The armpits and some other parts of the body are generally the site of discomfort of several types which can originate directly or indirectly from perspiration phenomena. These phenomena often cause unpleasant and troublesome sensations which are mainly due to the presence of the sweat resulting from the perspiration, which can in some cases make the skin sweaty and the clothes wet, in particular at the armpits or on the back, thus leaving visible marks. Furthermore, the presence of the sweat can bring about the release of generally unpleasant body odours. Finally, during its evaporation, the sweat can also leave behind salts and/or proteins at the surface of the skin, which can cause off-white marks on the clothes. Such uncomfortable effects are to be taken into account, including in the case of moderate perspiration. In the cosmetic field, it is thus well known to use, in topical application, antiperspirant products comprising substances which have the effect of limiting, indeed even of suppressing, the flow of sweat in order to overcome the abovementioned problems. These products are generally available in the roll-on, sticks, aerosol or spray form. Antiperspirant substances are generally composed o f aluminium salts, such as aluminium chloride and aluminium hydroxyhalides, or of aluminium and zirconium complexes. These substances make it possible to reduce the flow of sweat by forming a plug in the sweat duct. However, the use of these substances at high concentrations, in particular in a content ranging from 15 to 20% by weight, for the purpose of obtaining good antiperspirant effectiveness, generally results in difficulties in formulating. Furthermore, it has been found that the antiperspirant effectiveness of these substances is limited, which implies that they have to be applied several times to the skin in order to obtain a satisfactory effective antiperspirant effect. However, in the case of some users, repeated applications of these substances can exhibit the disadvantage of resulting in skin irritation.
It has also been observed that these substances confer an antiperspirant effect which has a tendency to disappear, in particular with washing operations and in the case of heavy perspiring.
Finally, these antiperspirant substances can also leave marks when applied to the skin, the consequence of which is to stain the clothes.
The proposal has been made, to overcome the combined disadvantages mentioned above, to look for other effective active substances which are well tolerated by the skin and which can easily be formulated in order to replace all or part of the aluminium salts and/or aluminium and zirconium complexes.
The flow of sweat can be limited by partially blocking the sweat ducts by virtue of the formation of a plug in the sweat duct but also by the formation, at the surface of the skin, of an adhesive or nonadhesive film which is persistent towards sweat.
Thus, the proposal has been made, in International Patent Application WO2001 /054658, to use anhydrous and nonadhesive antiperspirant compositions comprising at least one cyanoacrylate monomer which is reactive towards water, an anhydrous medium, a polymerization inhibitor and an active substance chosen from a deodorant substance, an antiperspirant substance, a scenting substance or a mixture of these substances. The cyanoacrylate monomers used in such compositions polymerize by the anionic route directly on the surface of the skin in the presence of a nucleophilic agent, such as hydroxide ions (OH"), present in the water, to form a water-resistant polymeric film. In other words, the cyanoacrylate monomers react with the sweat to form in situ, by anionic polymerization, a film on the skin which makes it possible to plug the sweat ducts. However, these occlusive film-forming polymers do not make it possible to obtain an entirely satisfactory antiperspirant effectiveness and also give rise to formulation problems.
International Patent Application WO 2006/028612 describes a method comprising a first stage which consists in applying, to the skin, an adhesive silicone which is subsequently subjected to a heat treatment and a second stage which consists in applying an antiperspirant compound to the surface of the adhesive. This method makes it possible to facilitate the application of the antiperspirant compound. Patent Application US 2007/0053959 describes a patch provided with a layer comprising an antiperspirant agent and/or a deodorant agent which is surmounted by a protective layer. Thus, the method consists, in a first stage, in applying the patch to the surface of the skin, in order to deposit the antiperspirant agent and/or the deodorant agent, and, in a second stage, in removing the protective layer.
However, it has been observed that the films obtained from these cosmetic compositions are still not fully tolerated by the skin, which generally results in problems of irritation with some users. Furthermore, it is known, from Patent US 2008/0199417, to use copolymers comprising organosiloxane units and saccharide units connected to one another via a linking group in order to improve the conditioning and rheology properties of cosmetic compositions.
In the same way, Patent Application EP 1 095 959 describes copolymers comprising a siloxane portion grafted to a polysaccharide portion which make it possible to improve the conditioning properties of cosmetic compositions.
None of these documents describes the use of copolymers comprising organosiloxane units and saccharide units in the treatment of human perspiration.
Thus, there therefore exists a real need to employ compounds which do not exhibit the abovementioned disadvantages, that is to say which confer a satisfactory antiperspirant effect, in particular in terms of effectiveness and of resistance towards sweat, and which are suitably tolerated by the skin.
The Applicant Company has discovered, surprisingly, that it is possible to employ, on the skin, water-repellent compounds having the desired properties, that is to say which make it possible to effectively treat human perspiration while exhibiting a toxicological profile suitable for the skin and being able to be easily formulated in products intended to reduce perspiration.
In particular, the Applicant Company has found that the use on the skin of water-repellent compounds makes it possible to obtain a satisfactory antiperspirant effect.
This is because the Applicant Company has observed that the application to the skin of water-repellent compounds makes it possible to render the sweat ducts hydrophobic, which ducts generally exhibit hydrophilic surface properties. Thus, the water-repellent compounds lower the surface tension of the sweat ducts, which makes it possible to limit the rise of the sweat by capillary action inside these ducts.
A subject-matter of the present invention is thus in particular the use of one or more water-repellent compounds as agent for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration. "Agent for the treatment of perspiration" is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, any substance which, by itself alone, has the effect of reducing or limiting the flow of sweat.
Preferably, the use of one or more water-repellent compounds makes it possible to confer an antiperspirant effect.
Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, one or more specific water-repellent compounds as defined above in the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration. Another subject-matter of the present invention also consists o f a method for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration and, optionally, the body odours related to human perspiration, in particular axillary odours, which consists in applying, to the skin, one or more water-repellent compounds.
Finally, the invention also relates to a composition packaged and pressurized in an aerosol device or in a pump-action spray, packaged in a device equipped with a ball applicator or else packaged in a device equipped with an openwork wall, which comprises one or more water-repellent compounds.
Other subject-matters, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even more clearly apparent on reading the description and examples which follow.
"Water-repellent compound" is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a compound which is capable o f reducing the surface tension of the wall of the sweat duct, so as to limit the rise of the sweat in this same duct.
"Water-repellent compound" is therefore understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a compound which is capable of repelling water and penetrating into supports in order to impregnate them and confer hydrophobic properties.
The water-repellent compound or compounds used according to the invention are hydrophobic, that is to say that these compounds exhibit an HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) value of less than 2. The water-repellent compound or compounds used according to the invention are chosen from (i) hydrophobic polyorganosiloxanes, (ii) water-repellent alkyl compounds, (iii) water-repellent alkoxysilane compounds and/or (iv) insoluble organic salts.
In particular, the hydrophobic polyorganosiloxanes are chosen from polyorganosiloxanes comprising one or more units of formula
(I) :
RaXbSi0(4_a_b)/2 in which: a and b are equal to 0, 1 , 2 or 3 , and a+b = 0, 1 , 2 or 3 , the symbols R are identical or different and represent a C1 -C1 8 alkyl group or a C6-Ci2 aryl or arylalkyl group optionally substituted by halogen atoms (in particular fluorine); mention may be made, among the R radicals appearing in the formula (I), of the methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, tert-butyl, n-hexyl, octyl, trifluoropropyl or phenyl radical; preferably, at least 50 mol% of the R radicals represent a methyl group; the symbols X are identical or different and represent a functional radical chosen from those carrying at least one epoxy, carboxyl, hydroxyl, alkoxy, amino, polyether, phosphate, phosphonate, ester, carboxylate, dicarboxyl, anhydride, saccharide and/or saccharide derivative unit; the content by weight of the siloxane units being greater than 60% and preferably greater than 80%, with respect to the total weight of the polyorganosiloxane.
Preferably, b is equal to 1 , 2 or 3 , and, more preferably, b is equal to 1.
The said polyorganosiloxanes comprising units of formula (I) can be linear polymers which can optionally exhibit up to 50% by weight of branchings, cyclic polymers or three-dimensional polymers
(resins).
The resins exhibit, in their structure, at least two different units chosen from those of formula R3SiOcS (M unit), R2SiO (D unit), RSiOi .5 (T unit) or SiO2 (Q unit), one at least of these units being a T or Q unit.
It should be understood that, in these resins, a portion of the R radicals optionally represents X functional groups.
Mention may be made, as examples of resins, of the MQ resins, the MDQ resins, the TD resins and the MDT resins, it being possible for the reactive functions X to be carried by the M, D and/or T units.
When X corresponds to a saccharide and/or a saccharide derivative, then the polyorganosiloxanes can comprise one or more saccharide groups.
Preferably, X corresponds to a functional radical carrying a saccharide and/or a saccharide derivative.
The polyorganosiloxanes used according to the invention can thus also be chosen from copolymers comprising one or more siloxane units and one or more saccharide units, the content of siloxane units of which is greater than 60%.
The siloxane/saccharide copolymer used according to the invention comprises a silicone backbone comprising one or more saccharide, in particular monosaccharide, disaccharide, trisaccharide or tetrasaccharide, side and/or end groups. The siloxane/saccharide copolymer can be obtained by reaction of a silicone comprising an amino side or end group with a cyclic lactone comprising an aldonolactone saccharide unit, for example gluconolactone (GL) or lactobiolactone (LBL), which are commercially available. Gluconic acid, which is present naturally in cells, is a polyhydroxy α-hydroxy aldonic acid. Lactobionic acid (4-O-β-D- galactopyranosyl-D-gluconic acid) is composed of a galactose molecule which is connected to a gluconic acid molecule via a bond o f ether type. Lactobionic acid is formed by oxidation of the disaccharide lactose.
The siloxane/saccharide copolymer can be chosen from the gluconamidosiloxanes and lactobionamidosiloxanes of formulae (II), (III) and (V) below:
Figure imgf000009_0001
Figure imgf000009_0002
(V)
The gluconamidosiloxanes and lactobionamidosiloxanes of formulae (II), (III) and (V) can be prepared, for example, by the following synthetic schemes: Scheme 1 :
Figure imgf000010_0001
(I)
Figure imgf000010_0002
(H)
Scheme 2:
Figure imgf000011_0001
H 3-C— JI —m S ii-CH 3-
Figure imgf000011_0002
Scheme 3 :
Figure imgf000012_0001
(Vl)
Figure imgf000012_0002
(V)
In the above schemes, an aminosilicone is reacted with a sugar lactone (gluconolactone or lactobionolactone) in a solvent, preferably a dipolar aprotic solvent, such as, for example, tetrahydrofuran or acetonitrile, or without a solvent, at a temperature of between 25°C and 800C. The reaction is generally complete in a few hours.
The amino functional silicones of formulae (I) and (VI) preferably have a molecular weight of between 500 and 50 000 g/mol, preferably between 800 and 30 000 g/mol, and advantageously have an amine number, determined by NMR, of between 0.01 and 2 meq/g, preferably between 0.1 and 1.5 meq/g.
More particularly, mention may be made of two examples a) and b) of the preparation of a copolymer having siloxane units and saccharide units of formula (II) in which A corresponds to a (CH2)3 group : a) A solution of 33.3 g of aminopropylpolydimethylsiloxane
Rhodorsil P331 , having an amine number of 0.3 meq/g, in 40 cm of tetrahydrofuran was slowly added to a suspension of 1.78 g (0.01 mol) of δ-gluconolactone in 70 cm3 of tetrahydrofuran and the mixture was stirred at 400C for approximately 24 h. The lactone reacted completely (TLC monitoring). After evaporating to dryness under reduced pressure and then drying under vacuum at ambient temperature for 24 h, 34.9 g of gluconamidopropylpolydimethylsiloxane was obtained in the form of a colourless viscous oil.
The 1H NMR spectrum (CDCI3) is in accordance with the expected structure. Titration of the amino groups with perchloric acid shows a conversion of greater than 95%. b) A solution of 66.6 g of aminopropylpolydimethylsiloxane
Rhodorsil P332, having an amine number of 0.15 meq/g, in 80 cm3 of tetrahydrofuran was slowly added to a suspension of 1.78 g (0.01 mol) of δ-gluconolactone in 70 cm3 of tetrahydrofuran and the mixture was stirred at 400C for approximately 24 h. The lactone reacted completely (TLC monitoring). After evaporating to dryness under reduced pressure and then drying under vacuum at ambient temperature for 24 h, 68.1 g of gluconamidopropylpolydimethylsiloxane was obtained in the form of a colourless and very viscous oil.
The 1H NMR spectrum (CDCI3) is in accordance with the expected structure. Titration of the amino groups with perchloric acid shows a conversion of greater than 95%.
Mention may also be made of two examples c) and d) for the preparation of a copolymer comprising siloxane units and saccharide units of formula (II) in which A corresponds to a -CH2-CH2-CH2-NH- CH2-CH2- group : c) A solution of 76.9 g of aminoethylaminopropylpolydimethylsiloxane from Wacker, having an amine number of 1.30 meq/g in 100 cm of tetrahydrofuran was slowly added to a suspension of 17.8 g (0.1 mol) of δ-gluconolactone in 70 cm3 of tetrahydrofuran and the mixture was stirred at 400C for approximately 24 h. The lactone reacted completely (TLC monitoring) . After evaporating to dryness under reduced pressure and then drying under vacuum at ambient temperature for 24 h, 94.1 g o f gluconamidoethylaminopropylpolydimethylsiloxane were obtained in the form of a colourless viscous oil. The 1H NMR spectrum (CDCI3) is in accordance with the expected structure. Titration of the amino groups with perchloric acid shows a conversion of greater than 95%. d) A solution of 12.66 g of aminoethylaminopropylpolydimethylsiloxane from General Electric, having an amine number of 0.79 meq/g in 20 cm3 of tetrahydrofuran was slowly added to a suspension of 17.8 g (0.1 mol) of δ- gluconolactone in 70 cm of tetrahydrofuran and the mixture was stirred at 400C for approximately 24 h. The lactone reacted completely (TLC monitoring). After evaporating to dryness under reduced pressure and then drying under vacuum at ambient temperature for 24 h, 30.3 g of gluconamidoethylaminopropylpolydimethylsiloxane were obtained in the form of a colourless viscous oil. The 1H NMR spectrum (CDCI3) is in accordance with the expected structure. Titration of the amino groups with perchloric acid shows a conversion of greater than 95%.
Mention may also be made of an example e) of the preparation of a copolymer based on siloxane and on saccharide of formula (III), A of which corresponds to a (CH2)3 group : e) A solution of 33.3 g of aminopropylpolydimethylsiloxane
Rhodorsil P331 , having an amine number of 0.3 meq/g, in 40 cm3 of tetrahydrofuran was slowly added to a suspension of 3.4 g (0.01 mol) of lactobionolactone in 70 cm3 of tetrahydrofuran and the mixture was stirred at 400C for approximately 24 h. The lactone reacted completely (TLC monitoring). After evaporating to dryness under reduced pressure and then drying under vacuum at ambient temperature for 24 h, 34.9 g of lactobionamidopropylpolydimethylsiloxane was obtained in the form of a colourless viscous oil.
The 1H NMR spectrum (CDCI3) is in accordance with the expected structure. Titration of the amino groups with perchloric acid shows a conversion of greater than 95%.
Mention may also be made of two examples f) and g) of the preparation of a copolymer based on siloxane and on saccharide of formula (V), A of which corresponds to a (CH2)3 group and B of which also corresponds to a (CH2)3 group : f) A solution of 22.3 g of bis(aminopropyl)polydimethylsiloxane KF-8012, having an amine number of 0.45 meq/g, in 25 cm of tetrahydrofuran was slowly added to a suspension of 1.78 g (0.01 mol) of δ-gluconolactone in 70 cm3 of tetrahydrofuran and the mixture was stirred at 400C for approximately 24 h. The lactone reacted completely (TLC monitoring). After evaporating to dryness under reduced pressure and then drying under vacuum at ambient temperature for 24 h, 24.0 g of α,ω-bis(3- gluconamidopropyl)polydimethylsiloxane were obtained in the form of a colourless viscous oil.
The 1H NMR spectrum (CDCI3) is in accordance with the expected structure. Titration of the amino groups with perchloric acid shows a conversion of greater than 98%. g) A solution of 333 g o f bis(aminopropyl)polydimethylsiloxane X-22- 161 -C (amine number = 0.3 meq/g) in 300 cm3 of tetrahydrofuran was slowly added to a suspension of 17.82 g (0.1 mol) of δ-gluconolactone in 70 cm3 o f tetrahydrofuran and the mixture was stirred at 400C for approximately 24 h. The lactone reacted completely (TLC monitoring). After evaporating to dryness under reduced pressure and then drying under vacuum at ambient temperature for 24 h, 349.8 g of α,ω-bis(3- gluconamidopropyl)polydimethylsiloxane were obtained in the form of a colourless and very viscous oil. The 1H NMR spectrum (CDCI3) is in accordance with the expected structure. Titration of the amino groups with perchloric acid shows a conversion of greater than 98%.
According to one embodiment, the copolymer of siloxane and of saccharide according to the invention exhibits the following formula:
R2 aR1 (3-a)SiO-[(SiR2R1 O)m-(SiR1 2O)n]y-SiR1(3-a) R2a
in which:
R1 corresponds to a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C12 alkyl group, an organic group and an R3-Q group;
Q corresponds to a group chosen from the epoxy, cycloepoxy, primary amine, secondary amine, ethylenediamine, carboxyl, halogen, vinyl, allyl, anhydride and/or mercapto functional groups; m and n, which are identical or different, correspond to integers between 0 and 10 000, a can denote 0, 1 , 2 or 3 ; y is an integer such that the copolymer exhibits a molecular weight of less than 1 000 000; R2 corresponds to the structure Z-(G1)b-(G2)c, and the copolymer comprises at least one R2 radical in which the G1 group corresponds to a saccharide compound comprising from 5 to 12 carbon atoms; the sum b+c varies from 1 to 10, it being known that, if b or c is equal to 0, then b or c has to be equal to 1 , a varies from 0 to 3 ;
G2 is a saccharide compound comprising from 5 to 12 carbon atoms substituted with organic or organosilicone radicals;
Z is a linking group connecting the portion composed of the organosiloxane polymer and the saccharide portion, Z being a group chosen from:
- R3-NHC(O)-R4-; - R3-NHC(O)O-R4-;
- R3-NH-C(O)-NH-R4-;
- R3-C(O)-O-R4-;
- R3-O-R4-; - R3-CH(OH)-CH2-O-R4-; - R3-CH(OH)-CH2-NH-R4-; and
- R3-N(R1)-R4-,
R3 and R4, which are identical or different, correspond to spacer groups of formula R5R6R7;
R5 and R7, which are identical or different, correspond to a Ci - C12 alkylene group or an (O(C1 -C12))P alkoxy group, p being an integer varying from 1 to 50;
R6 corresponds to an -N(R8)- group, in which R8 corresponds to a hydrogen atom or a Ci -Ci2 alkyl group; in which the siloxane/saccharide copolymer is obtained by reaction between a functionalized organosiloxane polymer and at least one functional polyhydroxysaccharide so that the organosiloxane polymer is covalently bonded to the said polyhydroxysaccharide via the linking group Z. The water-repellent polyorganosiloxanes can be chosen from glycerolated silicones, such as siloxane functionalized in the α,ω positions with diglycerol.
The water-repellent polyorganosiloxanes used according to the invention are preferably copolymers comprising one or more siloxane units and one or more saccharide units, the content of siloxane units of which is greater than 60% by weight and preferably greater than
80% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the copolymer.
Particularly, the water-repellent polyorganosiloxanes can be chosen from the products sold under Dow Corning® XX-3002 Sugar Siloxane (XX-3002), Dow Corning® XX-3001 Sugar Siloxane (XX-
3001 ), Dow Corining® CE-8810 Sugar Siloxane Emulsion (XX-3005) and Dow Corining® XX-5501 Siloxane Film Former Dev Sample (XX- 5501 ).
The preparation of those products is described in the article "Use of New Sugar Siloxane Materials as Film Former in Skin and
Color Cosmetic Applications" by I. Van Reeth, T. Scavuzzo and E. Joffre.
The water-repellent compound or compounds according to the invention can be chosen from alkyl water-repellent compounds, alkoxysilane water-repellent compounds and/or insoluble organic salts.
Mention may in particular be made, as alkyl water-repellent compounds, of alkane resins, such as polyolefins, for example the hydrogenated branched C6-C2O polyolefin sold under the name Eastotac Resin H- 142R.
Mention may in particular be made, as alkoxysilane water- repellent compounds, of the compound isobutyltriethoxysilane, the compound isobutyltrimethoxysilane or the compound (n- octyl)triethoxysilane, such as triethoxybutylsilane, such as, for example, the products DC Z-6689 and DC Z-6403 sold by Dow Corning.
"Insoluble organic salts" is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, organic salts having a solubility in water of less than 0.1 % by weight.
Mention may in particular be made, as organic salts, of fatty acid carboxylates having a divalent counterion, such as calcium stearate or magnesium stearate.
Preferably, the water-repellent compound or compounds are chosen from copolymers comprising one or more siloxane units and one or more saccharide units, the content of the siloxane units o f which is greater than 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the copolymer, and alkyl compounds, in particular branched polyolefins, such as the hydrogenated C6-C2O polyolefin. Likewise, the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, one or more water-repellent compounds, as antiperspirant agent, chosen from:
(i) hydrophobic polyorganosiloxanes comprising one or more units of formula (I) :
RaXbSi0(4_a_b)/2 in which:
- a and b are equal to 0, 1 , 2 or 3 , and a+b = 0, 1 , 2 or 3 ,
- the symbols R are identical or different and represent a C1 -C1 8 alkyl group or a C6-Ci2 aryl or arylalkyl group optionally substituted by halogen atoms (in particular fluorine); mention may be made, among the R radicals appearing in the formula (I), of the methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, tert-butyl, n-hexyl, octyl, trifluoropropyl or phenyl radical; preferably, at least 50 mol% of the R radicals represent a methyl group;
- the symbols X are identical or different and represent a functional radical chosen from those carrying at least one epoxy, carboxyl, hydroxyl, alkoxy, amino, polyether, phosphate, phosphonate, ester, carboxylate, dicarboxyl, anhydride, saccharide and/or saccharide derivative unit; and the content by weight of the siloxane units is greater than 60% and preferably greater than 80%, with respect to the total weight of the polyorgano siloxane; (ii) water-repellent alkyl compounds,
(iii) water-repellent alkoxysilane compounds, and/or
(iv) insoluble organic salts, for the cosmetic treatment of humain perspiration.
Preferably, b is equal to 1 , 2 or 3 and, more preferably, b is equal to 1.
Preferably, X corresponds to a functional radical carrying a saccharide and/or a saccharide derivative.
The polyorganosiloxanes used according to the invention can thus also be chosen from copolymers comprising one or more siloxane units and one or more saccharide units, the content of siloxane units of which is greater than 60% by weight, preferably greater than 80% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the copolymer.
The water-repellent compound or compounds are present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The water-repellent compound or compounds can be dissolved or dispersed in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising one or more volatile oils and/or organic solvents. "Oil" is understood to mean a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 105 Pa). The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.
"Volatile oil" is understood to mean, within the meaning of the invention, an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratinous fibre in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa ( 10~3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
"Non-volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil which remains on the skin or keratinous fibre, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and which has in particular a vapour pressure of less than 10"3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
The oil can be chosen from any physiologically acceptable and in particular cosmetically acceptable oil, especially mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic oils, in particular volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon and/or silicone and/or fluorinated oils and their mixtures.
More specifically, "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether or carboxyl functional groups. Generally, the oil exhibits a viscosity o f
0.5 to 100 000 mPa-s, preferably of 50 to 50 000 mPa-s and more preferably of 100 to 300 000 mPa-s.
Mention may be made, as example of volatile oil which can be used in the invention, of: - volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the Isopar and Permethyl trade names, branched Cs-Ci6 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate and their mixtures. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell SoIt by Shell, can also be used; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in Patent Applications WO2007/068371 and DE 2008012457 of Cognis, namely a mixture essentially consisting of undecane (Cn) and tridecane (Cn),
- volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8 x 10"6 m2/s) and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made, as volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, of octamethyl- cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane or dodecamethylpentasiloxane,
- and their mixtures. Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of general formula (I) :
Figure imgf000021_0001
where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, one or more hydrogen atoms of which can be replaced by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
Mention may be made, among the oils of general formula (I), of: 3 -butyl- 1 , 1 , 1 ,3 ,5 ,5 ,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, 3 -propyl- 1 , 1 , 1 ,3 ,5 ,5 ,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and 3 -ethyl- 1 , 1 , 1 ,3 ,5 ,5 ,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.
Mention may be made, as example of non-volatile oil which can be used in the invention, of: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; - vegetable hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or also wheat germ, olive, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkinseed, cucumber, blackcurrant seed, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose, sunflower, maize, soybean, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, castor or avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil or shea butter; - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, or squalane;
- synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; - synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formula
Ri COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with Ri + R2 ≥ 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate or tridecyl trimellitate; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate or heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythrityl tetraiso stearate;
- fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature and which comprise a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol,
2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol;
- higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;
- carbonates; - acetates;
- citrates;
- fluorinated oils which optionally comprise a hydrocarbon and/or silicone part, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers or fluorosilicones, such as described in the document EP-A-847 752;
- silicone oils, such as non-volatile linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups or alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups at the end of the silicone chain, which groups have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethyl- siloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenyl- ethyl)trimethylsiloxy silicates, and - their mixtures.
Mention may be made, as organic solvent, for example, o f linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyolethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether; aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol; and their mixtures.
The water-repellent compound or compounds according to the invention can also be conveyed in oil-in-water emulsions. Mention may be made, as emulsifiers which can be used in oil- in-water emulsions or oil-in-water-in-oil triple emulsions, for example, of non-ionic emulsifiers, such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; sugar esters, such as sucrose stearate; and their mixtures, such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and of PEG-40 stearate. Mention may also be made of fatty alcohol/alkylpolyglycoside emulsifying mixtures, such as are described in Applications WO 92/06778, WO 95/13863 and WO 98/47610, for example the commercial products sold by SEPPIC under the Montanov® names. The oil-in-water emulsions can be stabilized by surfactants, polymers, in particular associative polymers, or particles.
More particularly, the oil-in-water emulsions are stabilized by one or more associative polymers, in particular anionic associative polymers. "Associative polymer" is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, that the associative polymer is an amphiphilic polymer, that is to say that the latter comprises at least one fatty chain, and thus a hydrophobic part, and at least one hydrophilic part. The molecules of these polymers are thus capable o f associating with one another or with molecules of associative agents, such as surfactants, which results in an improvement in the rheological properties of the compositions.
"Fatty chain" is understood to mean that the associative polymer comprises at least one linear or branched hydrocarbon group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the oil-in-water emulsions are stabilized by amphiphilic copolymers. Mention may be made, among these copolymers, of noncrosslinked 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) copolymers comprising a hydrophobic unit, such as those sold under the name Aristoflex LNC or SNC, or crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) copolymers, such as those sold under the name Aristoflex HMS or HMB. The oil-in-water emulsions can also be stabilized by anionic associative acrylic polymers, in particular those comprising, as monomers, one or more unsaturated carboxylic acids. The unsaturated carboxylic acids which can be used in the polymers of the invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic and maleic acids.
Mention may in particular be made, among the anionic associative acrylic polymers according to the invention, of: copolymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one allyl ether unit possessing a fatty chain, the hydrophilic unit of which is composed of a vinylcarboxylic acid and very particularly of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or mixtures of these and the allyl ether unit possessing a fatty chain of which corresponds to the monomer of following formula (V) : CH2=CR5CH2OBnR (V) in which:
R' denotes H or CH3;
B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical;
n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100;
R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl or cycloalkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24, and more particularly still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
A unit of formula (V) which is more particularly preferred is a unit in which R' denotes H, n is equal to 10 and R denotes a stearyl
(C 18) radical. Anionic associative polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in Patent
EP-O 216 479.
Particular preference is given according to the invention, among these polymers, to the polymers formed of 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid, of 5 to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, of 2 to 50% by weight of allyl ether possessing a fatty chain of formula (V) and of 0 to 1 % by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well known copolymerizable polyethylenically unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
Preference is very particularly given, among the latter, to the crosslinked terpolymers sold by Allied Colloids under the names Salcare SC 80 ® and Salcare SC90 ®, which are 30% aqueous emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth- 10 allyl ether (40 /50 / 10).
Mention may also be made, as polymers belonging to this family, of: - the Rheovis CR, CR3 and CRX products provided by Allied
Colloids;
- polyoxyethylenated lauryl acrylate/alkyl acrylate/methacrylic acid terpolymers, such as the product Rheo 2000 sold by Coatex; polyoxyethylenated stearyl methacrylate/alkyl acrylate/methacrylic acid copolymers, such as the products Acrysol 22
(or Aculyn 22 or Acrysol ICS) Acrysol 25 and DW- 1206A sold by Rohm & Haas; polyoxyethylenated nonylphenol acrylate/alkyl acrylate/methacrylic acid copolymers, such as the product Rheo 3000 sold by Coatex; methacrylic acid/butyl acrylate/hydrophobic monomer comprising a fatty chain copolymers, such as the product 8069- 146A sold by National Starch;
- copolymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit o f olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit of C10-C30 alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.
The water-repellent compositions of the invention are provided in the liquid form. They preferably have a viscosity of less than 1000 times the viscosity of water, i.e. 10 poises, and preferably of less than 1 P.
These compositions make it possible to lower in a lasting fashion the surface energy of the skin, the contact angle of water on the support (in particular the skin) being significantly increased.
The contact angle (water/support) on a support on which one o f the water-repellent agents is deposited is increased at least by 15°, with respect to the initial value of the support.
The contact angle after deposition of the water-repellent agent is at least 60° . Preferably, the compositions of the present patent application do not comprise aluminium salts conventionally used for their antiperspirant activity.
The compositions according to the invention can also comprise one or more deodorant active principles. The deodorant active principles can be bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether
(®Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether,
3 ' ,4 ' ,5 '-trichlorosalicylanilide, l -(3 ' ,4 '-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4 '- chlorophenyl)urea (®Triclocarban) or 3 ,7, 1 l -trimethyldodeca-2, 5 , 10- trienol (®Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts, such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts or cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA
( 1 ,3-diaminopropanetetraacetic acid) or 1 ,2-decanediol (Simclario l from Symrise).
Mention may also be made, among the deodorant active principles in accordance with the invention, of:
- zinc salts, such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate, zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate or zinc phenolsulphonate;
- chlorhexidine and its salts;
- sodium bicarbonate; - salicylic acid and its derivatives, such as 5-(n-octanoyl)salicylic acid;
- glycerol derivatives, such as, for example, caprylic/capric glycerides (Capmul MCM from Abitec), glycerol caprylate or caprate (Dermosoft GMCY and Dermosoft GMC respectively from Straetmans) or polyglyceryl-2 caprate (Dermosoft DGMC from Straetmans);
- biguanide derivatives, such as polyhexamethylenebiguanide salts;
- silver zeolites or silver-free zeolites.
The compositions according to the invention can also comprise, in addition, one or more powders. Mention may be made, as powders which can be used in the composition of the invention, for example, of polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the Orgasol names by Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name o f Polytrap; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name Microsphere M- I OO by Matsumoto or under the name Covabead LH85 by Wackherr; ethylene/acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name Flobeads by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; expanded powders, such as hollow microspheres, in particular the microspheres formed of a terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, of acrylonitrile and of methacrylate sold under the name Expancel by Kemanord Plast under the references 551 DE 12 (particle size of approximately 12 μm and density of 40 kg/m3), 55 1 DE 20 (particle size of approximately 30 μm and density of 65 kg/m3) and 551 DE 50 (particle size o f approximately 40 μm) or the microspheres sold under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by Matsumoto; powders formed of natural organic materials, such as powders formed of starch, in particular of crosslinked or noncrosslinked maize, wheat or rice starches, such as the powders formed of starch crosslinked with octenylsuccinic anhydride sold under the name Dry-Flo by National Starch; perlite sold under the name Optimat 1430 OR by World Minerals; silicone resin microbeads, such as those sold under the name Tospearl by Toshiba Silicone, in particular Tospearl 240; amino acid powders, such as the lauroyl lysine powder sold under the name Amihope LL- I l by Ajinomoto; wax microdispersion particles which preferably have mean dimensions of less than 1 μm and in particular ranging from 0.02 μm to 1 μm and which are essentially composed of a wax or of a mixture of waxes, such as the products sold under the name Aquacer by Byk Cera, in particular Aquacer 520 (mixture of synthetic and natural waxes), Aquacer 514 or 513 (polyethylene wax) or Aquacer 51 1 (polymer wax), or such as the products sold under the name Jonwax 120 by Johnson Polymer (mixture of polyethylene and paraffin waxes) and under the name Ceraflour 961 by Byk Cera (micronized modified polyethylene wax); and their mixtures.
Furthermore, the composition according to the invention can also comprise an expanded amorphous mineral material comprising at least two elements chosen from silicon, aluminium and magnesium.
"Mineral material" is understood to mean, within the meaning of the invention, any material composed of inorganic substances.
"Amorphous" is understood to mean any material comprising less than 10% by weight of crystalline phase and preferably less than 5% by weight of crystalline phase, indeed even a totally noncrystalline material not having an ordered atomic structure.
"Expanded material" is understood to mean any material having a loose bulk density at 25 °C ranging from 10 to 400 kg/m3
(Standard DIN 53468). This density can in particular be the result of a treatment by a thermal process, in particular at a temperature ranging from 700 to 15000C and preferably from 800 to 1 1000C.
Use will in particular be made of the expanded perlite particles sold under the trade names Optimat 1430 OR or Optimat 2550 by World Minerals. The powder or powders can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 a 10%, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 7%.
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can additionally comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from softening agents, antioxidants, opacifying agents, stabilizing agents, moisturizing agents, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, polymers, fragrances, thickening agents, propellants or any other ingredient normally used in cosmetics for this type of application.
Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds so that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition or additions.
The thickeners, preferably non-ionic thickeners, can be chosen from modified or unmodified guar gums and celluloses, such as hydroxypropylated guar gum or cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, or silicas, such as, for example, Bentone Gel MIO, sold by NL Industries, or Veegum Ultra, sold by Polyplastic. The thickeners can also be cationic thickeners, such as, for example, Polyquaternium-37, sold under the name Salcare SC95 (Polyquaternium-37 (And) Mineral Oil (And) PPG- I Trideceth-6) or Salcare SC96 (Polyquaternium-37 (And) Propylene Glyco l Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (And) PPG- I Trideceth-6), or other crosslinked cationic polymers, such as, for example, those with the CTFA name
Cationic Ethyl Acrylate/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer in Emulsion.
The amounts of these various constituents which can be present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are those conventionally used in compositions for the treatment of perspiration.
Likewise, the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, one or more water-repellent compounds as defined above in the treatment of human perspiration. The compositions according to the invention can also be pressurized and be packaged in an aerosol device composed of: (A) a container comprising an antiperspirant composition comprising one or more water-repellent compounds as defined above, (B) at least one propellant and one means for dispensing the said aerosol composition. The propellants generally used in products of this type, which are well known to a person skilled in the art, are such as, for example, dimethyl ether (DME), volatile hydrocarbons, such as n-butane, propane or isobutane, and their mixtures, optionally with at least one chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbon; mention may be made, among the latter, of the compounds sold by Dupont de Nemours under the Freon® and Dymel® names, in particular monofluorotrichloromethane, difluorodichloromethane, tetrafluorodichloroethane and 1 , 1 -difluoroethane, sold in particular under the trade name Dymel 152 A by Dupont. Use may also be made, as propellant, of carbon dioxide gas, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air.
The dispensing means, which forms a part of the aerosol device, is generally composed of a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, itself comprising a nozzle via which the aerosol composition is vaporized. The container comprising the pressurized composition can be opaque or transparent. It can be made of glass, of polymer or of metal, optionally covered with a protective lacquer layer. Thus, the present invention relates to compositions packaged in the pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a pump-action spray, packaged in a device equipped with a ball applicator (roll-on) or else packaged in a device equipped with an openwork wall, in particular a grating, which comprise one or more water-repellent compounds. Such compositions comprise, in this respect, the ingredients generally used in products of this type which are well known to a person skilled in the art.
The compositions can thus be packaged in applicators of roll- on type or sprays or be applied to wipes. Furthermore, the present invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration which consists in applying a cosmetic composition comprising one or more water- repellent compounds.
In particular, the cosmetic composition comprising one or more water-repellent compounds can be applied to the skin and can be subsequently rinsed off.
Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is not rinsed off after application.
The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention.
Examples
The compositions according to the invention are prepared from the following ingredients; unless otherwise indicated, the percentages shown are by weight.
Figure imgf000032_0001

Claims

1. Use of one or more water-repellent compounds as agent for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration.
2. Use according to Claim 1 , characterized in that the water- repellent compound or compounds are chosen from (i) hydrophobic polyorganosiloxanes, (ii) water-repellent alkyl compounds, (iii) water- repellent alkoxysilane compounds and/or (iv) insoluble organic salts.
3. Use according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the hydrophobic polyorganosiloxanes comprise one or more units o f formula (I) :
RaXbSi0(4_a_b)/2 in which:
- a and b are equal to 0, 1 , 2 or 3 , and a+b = 0, 1 , 2 or 3 ,
- the symbols R are identical or different and represent a C1 -C1 8 alkyl group or a C6-Ci2 aryl or arylalkyl group optionally substituted by halogen atoms (in particular fluorine); mention may be made, among the R radicals appearing in the formula (I), of the methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, tert-butyl, n-hexyl, octyl, trifluoropropyl or phenyl radical; preferably, at least 50 mol% of the R radicals represent a methyl group;
- the symbols X are identical or different and represent a functional radical chosen from those carrying at least one epoxy, carboxyl, hydroxyl, alkoxy, amino, polyether, phosphate, phosphonate, ester, carboxylate, dicarboxyl, anhydride, saccharide and/or saccharide derivative unit; and
- the content of the siloxane units is greater than 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the polyorganosiloxane.
4. Use according to Claim 3 , characterized in that the polyorganosiloxanes are chosen from copolymers comprising one or more siloxane units and one or more saccharide units.
5. Use according to Claim 4, characterized in that the copolymer comprising one or more siloxane units and one or more saccharide units comprises a silicone backbone comprising one or more saccharide, in particular monosaccharide, disaccharide, trisaccharide or tetrasaccharide, side- and/or end groups.
6. Use according to Claim 5 , characterized in that the copolymer comprising one or more siloxane units and one or more saccharide units is obtained by reaction of a silicone comprising an amino side or end group with a cyclic lactone comprising an aldonolactone saccharide unit.
7. Use according to Claim 6, characterized in that the cyclic lactone comprising an aldonolactone saccharide unit is gluconolactone or lactobiolactone.
8. Use according to any one of Claims 5 to 7, characterized in that the copolymer comprising one or more siloxane units and one or more saccharide units is chosen from the gluconamidosiloxanes and lactobionamidosiloxanes of formulae (II), (III) and (V) below:
Figure imgf000034_0001
Figure imgf000035_0001
(V)
9. Use according to Claim 4, characterized in that the copolymer comprising one or more siloxane units and one or more saccharide units exhibits the following formula:
R2 aR1(3-a)SiO-[(SiR2R1 O)m-(SiR1 2O)n]y-SiR1(3-a) R2
in which:
R1 corresponds to a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C12 alkyl group, an organic group and an R -Q group;
Q corresponds to a group chosen from the epoxy, cycloepoxy, primary amine, secondary amine, ethylenediamine, carboxyl, halogen, vinyl, allyl, anhydride and/or mercapto functional groups; m and n, which are identical or different, correspond to integers between O and 10 000, a can denote 0, 1 , 2 or 3 ; y is an integer such that the copolymer exhibits a molecular weight of less than 1 000 000;
R2 corresponds to the structure Z-(G1)b-(G2)c, and the copolymer comprises at least one R2 radical in which the G1 group corresponds to a saccharide compound comprising from 5 to 12 carbon atoms; the sum b+c varies from 1 to 10, it being known that, if b or c is equal to 0, then b or c has to be equal to 1 , a varies from 0 to 3 ; G2 is a saccharide compound comprising from 5 to 12 carbon atoms substituted with organic or organosilicone radicals;
Z is a linking group connecting the portion composed of the organosiloxane polymer and the saccharide portion, Z being a group chosen from: - R3-NHC(O)-R4-; - R3-NHC(O)O-R4-;
- R3-NH-C(O)-NH-R4-;
- R3-C(O)-O-R4-;
- R3-O-R4-; - R^CH(OH)-CH2-O-R4-;
- R3-CH(OH)-CH2-NH-R4-; and - R3-N(R1)-R4-,
R3 and R4, which are identical or different, correspond to spacer groups of formula R5R6R7;
R5 and R7, which are identical or different, correspond to a C1 - C12 alkylene group or an (O(d -C12))p alkoxy group, p being an integer varying from 1 to 50;
R6 corresponds to an -N(R8)- group, in which R8 corresponds to a hydrogen atom or a Ci -Ci2 alkyl group; in which the siloxane/saccharide copolymer is obtained by reaction between a functionalized organosiloxane polymer and at least one functional polyhydroxysaccharide so that the organosiloxane polymer is covalently bonded to the said polyhydroxysaccharide via the linking group Z.
10. Use according to Claim 2, characterized in that the water- repellent alkyl compound is an alkane resin chosen from polyolefins.
1 1. Use according to Claim 10, characterized in that the water-repellent alkyl compound is a hydrogenated branched C6-C2O polyolefin.
12. Use according to Claim 2, characterized in that the water- repellent alkoxysilane compound is chosen from isobutyltriethoxysilane, isobutyltrimethoxysilane, (n- octyl)triethoxysilane, triethoxybutylsilane or a mixture of these compounds.
13. Use according to Claim 2, characterized in that the insoluble organic salt is a fatty acid carboxylate having a divalent counterion.
14. Use of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, one or more water-repellent compounds as antiperspirant agent chosen from: (i) polyorganosiloxanes chosen from the group consisting of: a) polyorganosiloxanes comprising one or more units of formula (I) :
RaXbSi0(4_a_b)/2 in which: - a and b are equal to 0, 1 , 2 or 3 , and a+b = 0, 1 , 2 or 3 ,
- the symbols R are identical or different and represent a C1 -C18 alkyl group or a C6-Ci2 aryl or arylalkyl group optionally substituted by halogen atoms (in particular fluorine); mention may be made, among the R radicals appearing in the formula (I), of the methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, tert-butyl, n-hexyl, octyl, trifluoropropyl or phenyl radical; preferably, at least 50 mol% of the R radicals represent a methyl group;
- the symbols X are identical or different and represent a functional radical chosen from those carrying at least one epoxy, carboxyl, hydroxyl, alkoxy, amino, polyether, phosphate, phosphonate, ester, carboxylate, dicarboxyl and/or anhydride unit; and
- the content of the siloxane units is greater than 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the polyorganosiloxane;
(ii) water-repellent alkyl compounds, (iii) water-repellent alkoxysilane compounds, and/or (iv) insoluble organic salts; in the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration.
15. Use of the cosmetic composition according to Claim 14, characterized in that the water-repellent compound or compounds are present in the cosmetic composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight.
16. Use of the cosmetic composition according to Claim 14 or 15 , characterized in that the cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprises one or more oils and/or one or more organic solvents or is composed of an oil-in-water emulsion.
17. Use of the cosmetic composition according to Claim 16, characterized in that the oil-in-water emulsion is stabilized by one or more amphiphilic polymers.
18. Use of the cosmetic composition according to Claim 16 or
17, characterized in that it additionally comprises one or more deodorant active principles.
19. Composition packaged and pressurized in an aerosol device or in a pump-action spray, packaged in a device equipped with a ball applicator or else packaged in a device equipped with an openwork wall, which comprises one or more water-repellent compounds as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 13.
20. Method for the cosmetic treatment of human perspiration and optionally body odours related to human perspiration, in particular axillary odours, which consists in applying, to the skin, one or more water-repellent compounds, as anti-perspiration agent, as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 13.
21. Method according to Claim 21 , characterized in that the water-repellent compound or compounds, after application to the skin, increases the contact angle between water and the skin by at least 15 °.
PCT/EP2009/067644 2008-12-19 2009-12-21 Use of water-repellent compounds as agents for the treatment of perspiration and method for the cosmetic treatment of perspiration employing the said agent WO2010070138A2 (en)

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