WO2004089320A1 - Composition cosmetique - Google Patents

Composition cosmetique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2004089320A1
WO2004089320A1 PCT/EP2004/003657 EP2004003657W WO2004089320A1 WO 2004089320 A1 WO2004089320 A1 WO 2004089320A1 EP 2004003657 W EP2004003657 W EP 2004003657W WO 2004089320 A1 WO2004089320 A1 WO 2004089320A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
alkyl
surfactant
composition
compositions
weight
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PCT/EP2004/003657
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Cristina Erendira Avalos Badiano
Katya Leonor Franco Lopez
Original Assignee
Unilever Plc
Unilever Nv
Hindustan Lever Limited
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Application filed by Unilever Plc, Unilever Nv, Hindustan Lever Limited filed Critical Unilever Plc
Publication of WO2004089320A1 publication Critical patent/WO2004089320A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q3/00—Manicure or pedicure preparations
    • A61Q3/04—Nail coating removers

Definitions

  • This invention relates to aqueous cosmetic compositions that are suitable for use as make-up removers.
  • Make-up once applied to the skin and/or eyes, has conventionally only a limited life or purpose. Therefore, make-up is generally removed and may be reapplied later.
  • the removal and reapplication process may be a daily or twice daily activity.
  • make-up removers traditionally used in the art to remove oil-based make-up comprise a high concentration of oily or fatty substances, particularly vaseline oil, whose function, when applied to the skin, is to dissolve and remove the various fats which may be in make-up products, so as to remove them.
  • High concentrations of fatty substances may, however, cause irritation to eyelids and create a sensation of heaviness or weight on the face.
  • Soap and water or mild detergent products especially formulated for use on delicate skin areas, such as the face, may not be effective in removing wax based make-up such as lipstick and mascara. Scrubbing of the skin to remove makeup may be successful but at the cost of damaging the skin.
  • a cosmetic composition for a cosmetic composition to be effective as a make-up remover, it is desirable that the composition has a high efficacy in terms of its ability to remove greasy material, especially greasy make-up compositions such as lipstick, eye shadow or foundation. Additionally, it may be advantageous for the composition to have a high degree of ease of rinsing, in that it should be taken up rapidly by water when rinsing. Oil-based cleansing products such as "cold cream” may clean make-up from the skin but the resultant oil residue is difficult to remove by wiping off or rinsing with water.
  • the make-up removing composition should also have a low degree of irritancy (i.e., be mild), not only with regard to the skin but in particular with regard to the eyes, as is required, for example, in the removal of make-up from the eyes.
  • a low degree of irritancy i.e., be mild
  • EP 0 213 827 A discloses a non-foaming cleansing mousse forming emulsion packaged in a- pressurised container.
  • the emulsion comprises a concentrate containing specified amounts of a specific non-ionic surfactant, emollient, skin moisturiser and water.
  • a specified amount of a moderately water-soluble propellant is also present.
  • the compositions disclosed in EP 0 213 827 A are substantially free of anionic surfactants and water insoluble propellants and do not require rinsing.
  • EP 0 541 347 A describes a make-up remover composition comprising specified amounts of a specific non-ionic surfactant and, optionally, an anionic surfactant electrolyte and thickener.
  • EP 0 586 234 A discloses a foaming skin cleansing composition comprising a specific non-ionic surfactant having a certain H B value and at least one low irritant anionic surfactant .
  • EP 0 437 956 A describes a cleansing composition in the form of a mousse comprising a concentrate comprising a specific oil, a non-ionic emulsifier and water together with a propellant .
  • make-up removal compositions that are mild, capable of effectively removing oily and waxy make-up from the skin and/or eyes and which are capable of providing a mousse with acceptable consumer properties such as, for example, creaminess, amount of foam and duration of foam.
  • an aqueous cosmetic composition suitable for use as a make-up remover comprising:
  • the present invention provides a method of removing make-up, which comprises applying to the skin the composition of the invention in any of the embodiments described herein.
  • compositions of the present invention are suitable for topical application to the skin, particularly the face and neck of a user.
  • compositions of the present invention may be used as general skin cleansers but they can be particularly suitable for removing waterproof and/or non-waterproof make-up from the skin and/or eyes .
  • the cosmetic compositions of the present invention may produce acceptable amounts of mousse foam, even in the presence of oily materials.
  • the compositions of the present invention can be mild, with low irritation to the skin, yet can be capable of effectively removing waxy make-up products from the skin and/or face.
  • compositions according to the invention may also have a number of advantages.
  • the combination of the composition packaged as a foamable concentrate in a sealed container having a dispensing means which forms a mousse on dispensing may prevent oxidation and degradation of the composition during storage or standing. It may also provide a means for conveniently dispensing the required amount of the composition from the container. Once dispensed, the product is more easily manipulated and distributed, compared to a low viscosity liquid.
  • the composition comprises the surfactant system in an amount of from 6% to 80% by weight of the total composition, more preferably from 8% to 50% by weight of the total composition.
  • the total amount of anionic surfactant (ie, alkyl sulphate, alkyl phosphate and alkyl succinate) in the surfactant system is from 6% to 80% by weight of the total composition, more preferably from 8% to 50% by weight of the total composition.
  • amphoteric surfactant in the surfactant system is typically present in an amount of from 0.1% to 20% by weight of the total composition, more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight of the total composition.
  • Each of the surfactant types (i) , (ii) , (iii) and (iv) may be present in an amount of from 0.1% to 20% by weight of the total composition.
  • each surfactant type is present in an amount of from 1% to 10% by weight of the total composition.
  • alkyl as used herein, includes straight chain and, for alkyl groups containing three or more carbon atoms, branched and also cycloalkyl groups .
  • straight chain alkyl include methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl and hexyl .
  • branched alkyl include isopropyl, isobutyl, and tert-butyl.
  • cycloalkyl groups include cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl.
  • alkylene is defined similarly to the term “alkyl” but refers to a divalent species with radicals separated by two or more (eg, from two to twelve) carbon atoms linked in a chain.
  • alkenyl is defined similarly to the term “alkyl” but the groups contain at least two carbon atoms and one or more carbon-carbon double bond.
  • alkyl, alkylene and alkenyl groups may optionally be substituted with, for example, hydroxyl groups, carboxy ester groups, carboxamide groups, carbonyl groups, halogens, eg chlorine and bromine, amino groups and aryl groups, such as phenyl .
  • alkyl sulfate surfactant may include, for example, a Cs-Ci 8 , more preferably, Ci 2 -C ⁇ g alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate (including alkyl glyceryl ether sulfates) .
  • alkyl ether sulfates are those having the formula:
  • R is an alkyl or alkenyl group having 8 to 18 carbons, preferably 12 to 18 carbons, n has an average value of greater than 1, preferably greater than 3; and M is a solubilizing cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium.
  • Ammonium and sodium lauryl ether sulfates are preferred for use in the compositions of the invention.
  • Sodium lauryl ether sulfate such as, for example, sold under the name Texapon N70, which can be obtained commercially from Cognis, is particularly preferred.
  • alkyl phosphate includes, for example, C 8 -C 22 alkyl phosphates and phosphates, alkyl phosphate esters and alkoxyl alkyl phosphate esters.
  • the phosphate ester may comprise aryl (EO) x , alkyl or alkyl (EO) x groups. It is particularly preferred if the alkyl phosphate is an alkali metal salt of a C 12 - 13 alkyl phosphate such as, for example,
  • Arlatone MAP 230K-40 which can be obtained commercially from Uniqema.
  • the alkyl phosphate salt is a potassium salt.
  • alkyl succinates includes, for example, alkyl sulfosuccinates and alkoxylated citrate sulfosuccinates.
  • the sulfosuccinates may be mono or dialkyl, e.g., C6-C22 sulfosuccinates.
  • suitable sulfosuccinates may be monoalkyl sulfosuccinates having the formula:
  • R 1 CONHCH 2 CH 2 0 2 CCH 2 CH (SO 3 M) C0 2 M; and amido-MIPA sulfosuccinates of the formula
  • R ranges from C 8 -C 22 alkyl and M is a solubilizing cation such as, for example, sodium, potassium or ammonium.
  • alkyl succinate is disodium cocamido MIPA (mono iso-propyl amine) sulfosuccinate such as, for example, sold under the name Momamate CPA-40, which can be obtained commercially from Uniqema .
  • Amphoteric surfactants suitable for use in compositions of the invention include, for example, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines) , alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates, alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have from 6 to 19 carbon atoms.
  • amphoteric surfactants that may be used in this invention include those comprising at least one acid group.
  • This acid group may be a carboxylic or a sulphonic acid group.
  • the surfactants preferably include quaternary nitrogen and, therefore, are quaternary amido acids. They typically include an alkyl or alkenyl group of 7 to 18 carbon atoms . Preferably, they comply with an overall structural formula:
  • R is alkyl or alkenyl of 7 to 18 carbon atoms
  • R and R are each independently alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or carboxyalkyl of 1 to 3 carbon atoms; n is 2 to 4;
  • n 0 to 1;
  • x is alkylene of 1 to 3 carbon atoms optionally substituted with hydroxyl
  • y is -CO 2 - or -SO 3 -
  • Suitable amphoteric surfactants within the above general formula include simple betaines of formula:
  • R and R are alkyl or alkenyl of 7 to 18 carbons; and R , R and R and R are independently alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or carboxylalkyl of 1 to 3 carbons.
  • R lc and R may in particular be a mixture of C 12 and C 14 alkyl groups derived from coconut so that at least half, preferably at least three quarters of the groups R and R
  • R , R and R and R are preferably methyl .
  • amphoteric surfactant is a sulphobetaine of formula
  • R and R are alkyl or alkenyl of 7 to 18
  • R , R and R and R are independently alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or carboxylalkyl of 1 to 3 carbons.
  • R le and R may in particular be a mixture of C 12 and C 14 alkyl groups derived from coconut so that at least half, preferably at least three quarters of the groups R and R
  • R , R and R and R are preferably methyl .
  • the amphoteric surfactant of the invention comprises at least one imidazoline-based or imidazoline derivative surfactant.
  • imidazoline based or imidazoline derivative surfactants it is meant surfactants which comprise an intermediate imidazoline ring structure during their synthesis.
  • the imidazoline ring may be opened under the influence of hydrolysing conditions and is generally not present in the final surfactant products.
  • the imidazoline-based amphoteric surfactant is selected from the group consisting of alkylamphoacetates, alkylamphopropionates and alkyliminopropionates, preferably wherein the alkyl groups have from 6 to 19 carbon atoms.
  • amphoteric surfactants include cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine and preferably lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium cocamphopropionate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate and sodium lauriminodipropionate.
  • amphoteric surfactant comprises cocamidopropyl betaine, such as, for example, as sold under the name Monateric CAB-LC, which can be obtained commercially from Uniqema and/or disodium cocoamphodiacetate such as, for example, as sold under the name Monateric CLV, which can also be obtained commercially from Uniqema.
  • cocamidopropyl betaine such as, for example, as sold under the name Monateric CAB-LC, which can be obtained commercially from Uniqema and/or disodium cocoamphodiacetate such as, for example, as sold under the name Monateric CLV, which can also be obtained commercially from Uniqema.
  • the weight ratio of the total amounts of (i) , (ii) and (iii) to the amount of (iv) may be in the range of from 20:1 to 1:20, more preferably from 10:1 to 1:1.
  • aqueous compositions of the invention which can optionally be in the form of an emulsion, and propellant can be filled together into a pressurised container to provide the cleansing composition of the invention, which can then be dispensed in the form of a mousse .
  • compositions of the invention include an aerosol propellant that serves to expel the other materials from the container, arid forms the mousse character in mousse compositions.
  • the aerosol propellant included in compositions of the present invention can be any liquefiable gas conventionally used for aerosol containers.
  • Suitable propellants include dimethyl ether and hydrocarbon propellants such as propane, n-butane and isobutane, mixtures of these three propellants, such as CAP 30 (ex Calor) , hydrofluorocarbons, such as HFA 152a and 134a, chlorofluorocarbons, such as Propellants 11, 12, 114 and 22.
  • the propellants may be used singly or admixed. Mixtures of water insoluble propellants can also be used. Water insoluble propellants, especially hydrocarbons, are preferred because they form emulsion droplets on agitation and create suitable mousse foam densities.
  • the amount of the propellant used is governed by normal factors well known in the aerosol art .
  • the level of propellant is generally up to 30%, preferably from 2% to 30%, most preferably from 3% to 15% by weight based on total weight of the composition.
  • a propellant such as dimethyl ether includes a vapour pressure suppressant (e.g. trichloroethane or dichloromethane) , for weight percentage calculations, the amount of suppressant is included as part of the propellant.
  • the method of preparing aerosol mousse compositions according to the invention follows conventional aerosol filling procedures. The composition ingredients (not including the propellant) are charged into a suitable pressurisable container, which is sealed and then charged with the propellant according to conventional techniques.
  • Aerosol hair mousse compositions are emitted from the aerosol container in the form of a foam.
  • the foam is then typically applied to the face with, for example, fingers, a personal cleansing implement such as a sponge or wipe and can be either rinsed off with water or wiped off with, for example, a tissue or other suitable means.
  • compositions of the present invention can be formulated as a liquid having a viscosity of from 10 to 2,000 mPas, as measured with a Brookfield RVT viscometer using spindle 3 at 25°C.
  • the composition may advantageously be packaged in a suitable pressurised container from which it can be dispensed as a mousse.
  • the container is generally fitted with a closure incorporating a valve and an actuator suitable for dispensing a mousse.
  • Suitable containers may be made from any material, especially metal, such as, for example, aluminium or tin plate, plastics and including mixtures, laminates or other combinations of these.
  • anionic surfactants which may be included in compositions of the invention include, for example, aliphatic sulfonates, such as a primary alkane (e.g., C8-C 22 ) sulfonate, primary alkane (e.g., C8-C 2 2) disulfonate, C8-C22 alkene sulfonate, C 8 -C 22 hydroxyalkane sulfonate or alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonate (AGS) , or aromatic sulfonates such as alkyl benzene sulfonate, acyl lactates, and maleates, sulphoacetates, alkyl glucosides and acyl isethionates, preferably the Cs-Cis acyl isethionates, alkyl and acyl taurates, alkyl and acyl sarcosinates and sulfoacetates.
  • Nonionic, cationic and zwitterionic surfactants may also optionally be used.
  • Nonionic surfactants include in particular the reaction products of compounds having a hydrophobic group and a reactive hydrogen atom, for example aliphatic alcohols, acids, amides or alkyl phenols with alkylene oxides, especially ethylene oxide either alone or with propylene oxide .
  • nonionic detergent compounds are alkyl (C 6 -C 22 ) phenols-ethylene oxide condensates, the condensation products of aliphatic (Cs-Ci ⁇ ) primary or secondary linear or branched alcohols with ethylene oxide, and products made by condensation of ethylene oxide with the reaction products of propylene oxide and ethylenediamine .
  • Other so-called nonionic detergent compounds include long chain tertiary amine oxides, long chain tertiary phosphine oxides and dialkyl sulphoxides.
  • the nonionic may also be a sugar amide, such as a polysaccharide amide.
  • the surfactant may be one of the lactobionamides described in U.S. Patent No. 5,389,279 to Au et al . which is hereby incorporated by reference or it may be one of the sugar amides described in Patent No. 5,009,814 to Kelkenberg, hereby incorporated into the subject application by reference.
  • Suitable cationic surfactants that can be incorporated are alkyl substituted quaternary ammonium halide salts e.g. bis (hydrogenated tallow) dimethylammonium chlorides, cetyltrimethyl ammonium bromide, benzalkonium chlorides and dodecylmethylpolyoxyethylene ammonium chloride and amine and imidazoline salts for e.g. primary, secondary and tertiary amine hydrochlorides and imidazoline hydrochlorides .
  • alkyl substituted quaternary ammonium halide salts e.g. bis (hydrogenated tallow) dimethylammonium chlorides, cetyltrimethyl ammonium bromide, benzalkonium chlorides and dodecylmethylpolyoxyethylene ammonium chloride and amine and imidazoline salts for e.g. primary, secondary and tertiary amine hydrochlorides and imidazoline hydrochlorides .
  • Suitable zwitterionic surfactants that optionally can be employed are derivatives of aliphatic quaternary ammonium, sulphonium and phosphonium compounds having an aliphatic radical of from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and an aliphatic radical substituted by an anionic water-solubilising group, for instance 3- (N-N-dimethyl-N-hexadecylammonium) propane-1- sulphonate betaine, 3- (dodecylmethyl sulphonium) propane-1- sulphonate betaine and 3- (cetylmethylphosphonium) ethane sulphonate betaine.
  • the amounts of additional surfactant will generally be in the range of from 0.01% to 10%, more preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight of the total composition.
  • the composition is substantially free of non-ionic surfactants.
  • substantially free it is meant that the composition contains a non-ionic surfactant in an amount of less than 1% by weight of the total composition, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight of the total composition. Ideally, no non-ionic surfactant is present .
  • compositions of the invention can optionally comprise a benefit agent in an amount of from 0.1% to 40%, preferably from 1% to 20%, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight of the total composition.
  • the benefit agent may be a single benefit agent component or it may be a benefit agent compound added via a carrier.
  • the benefit agent composition may be a mixture of two or more compounds one or all of which may have a beneficial aspect.
  • the benefit agent itself may act as a carrier for other components one may wish to add to the composition.
  • the benefit agent can be an "emollient oil” by which is meant a substance which softens the skin (stratum corneum) by increasing into water content and keeping it soft by retarding decrease of water content.
  • emollient oils include:
  • silicone oils gums and modifications thereof such as linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes; amino, alkyl, alkylaryl and aryl silicone oils;
  • fats and oils including natural fats and oils such as jojoba, soybean, rice bran, avocado, almond, olive, sesame, persic, castor, coconut, mink oils; cacao fat; beef tallow, lard; hardened oils obtained by hydrogenating the aforementioned oils; and synthetic mono, di and triglycerides such as myristic acid glyceride and 2-ethylhexanoic acid glyceride ;
  • waxes such as carnauba, spermaceti, beeswax, lanolin and derivatives thereof;
  • hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffins, vaseline, macrocrystalline wax, ceresin, squalene, pristan and mineral oil
  • higher fatty acids such as lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, behenic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, lanolic, isostearic and poly unsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) ;
  • esters such as cetyl octanoate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, butyl stearate, decyl oleate, cholesterol isostearate, glycerol monostearate, glycerol distearate, glycerol tristearate, alkyl lactate, alkyl citrate and alkyl tartrate; (i) essential oils such as mentha, jasmine, camphor, white cedar, bitter orange peel, ryu, turpentine, cinnamon, bergamot, citrus unshiu, calamus, pine, lavender, bay, clove,' hiba, eucalyptus, lemon, starflower, thyme, peppermint, rose, sage, menthol, cineole, eugenol, citral, citronelle
  • a particularly preferred benefit agent is silicone, preferably silicones having viscosity greater than about
  • the silicone may be a gum and/or it may be a mixture of silicones.
  • One example is polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity of about 60,000 centistokes at 25°C.
  • Other particularly preferred emollients include, for example, isopropyl isostearate, such as, for example, sold under the name Prisorine 2021 which may be obtained commercially from Uniqema.
  • the compositions of the invention may also benefit from the introduction of other skin conditioning agents such as, for example, phospholipids .
  • a particularly preferred phospholipid is polysiloxy linoleyl pyrrolidone phospholipid, such as, for example, as sold under the name Arlasilk phospholipid pin and which can be obtained commercially from Uniqema.
  • a combined surfactant and silicone phospholipid such as, for example, polysiloxy linoleyl pyrrolidone phospholipid may provide a surfactant functionality which is easier to formulate.
  • the silicone functionality provides sensorial benefits.
  • the use of a silicone phospholipid may improve the physical and sensorial qualities of the foam.
  • the phospholipid is present in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight of the total composition, more preferably in an amount of from 1% to 5% by weight of the total composition.
  • Additional moisturisers for such cosmetic compositions may be chosen from mineral and vegetable oils, hydroxyethylcellulose derivatives, glycerol, glycols, polyhydric alcohols and sorbitol amongst others.
  • Humectants of the polyhydric alcohol-type may also be included in the compositions of the present invention.
  • the hu ectant helps to increase the effectiveness of the emollient, reduces scaling, stimulates removal of built-up scale and generally improves skin feel .
  • Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerol, polyalkylene glycols and more preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1, 2 , 6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof .
  • the amount of humectant may range anywhere from about 0.5 to about 30%, preferably between 1 and 15% by weight of the composition.
  • compositions of the invention comprise glycerin in an amount of 1% or less, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention the composition contains no glycerin.
  • Thickeners/viscosifiers in amounts of up to about 5% by weight of the composition may also be included.
  • Suitable thickeners include xanthan gum, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl and alkyl celluloses (particularly hydroxypropyl cellulose) , sclerotium gum and polyacrylamide dispersions in isoparaffin such as those sold by Seppic Inc. under the Sepigel 305 trademark.
  • the pH of the cosmetic composition of the invention is in the range of from 5 to 8, more preferably 5.5 to 7.
  • aqueous cosmetic compositions of the invention may contain a variety of further optional components suitable for rendering the compositions more aesthetically acceptable or to aid use, including discharge from the container, of the product .
  • Such conventional optional ingredients are well known to those skilled in the art, e.g. fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, pH adjusting agents such as citric acid, succinic acid, sodium hydroxide and triethanolamine, colouring agents such as any of the FD&C or D&C dyes, perfume oils, chelating agents such as ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid, and polymer plasticising agents such as glycerin and propylene glycol .
  • fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol
  • pH adjusting agents such as citric acid, succinic acid, sodium hydroxide and triethanolamine
  • colouring agents such as any of the FD&C or D&C dyes
  • perfume oils e.g., chelating agents such as ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid
  • polymer plasticising agents such as glycerin and propylene glycol .
  • Preservatives may desirably be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions of the present invention to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms.
  • Suitable traditional preservatives include alkyl esters of para-hydroxybenz ⁇ ic acid.
  • Other preservatives that have more recently come into use include hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds .
  • preservatives are disodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, butyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea (commercially available as Germall 1157), sodium dehydroacetate and benzyl alcohol.
  • the preservatives are preferably employed in amounts ranging from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of the composition.
  • compositions of the present invention may also include a variety of soothing or anti-irritant ingredients, such as, for example, herbal extracts or mixes in an effective amount .
  • Suitable anti-irritancy agents include gluconolactone, borage seed oil, wild borage, dextran, alpha-bisabolol (extracted from chamomille) , azulene (extracted from yarrow) , resveratrol, petroselenic acid and combinations thereof. Each of these can be present at levels ranging from about 0.0001 to about 5%, preferably from about 0.001 to about 1%, optimally from about 0.01 to about 0.5% by weight of the composition.
  • Herbal extracts may also be included as components of the composition and are particularly effective for controlling the level of sebum/oil.
  • Suitable extracts include dill, horseradish, oats, neem, beet, broccoli, tea, pumpkin, soybean, barley, walnut, flax, ginseng, poppy, avocado, pea, sesame, dandelion, wheat, nettle, cashew, pineapple, apple, asparagus, Brazil nut, chickpea, grapefruit, orange, cucumber, buckwheat, strawberry, ginko, tomato, blueberry, cowpea or grape extracts.
  • Suitable herbal extracts include ivy horse chestnut, centella asiatica, rosmarinic acid, sericoside, ruscogenin, escin, escolin, betulinic acid, catechin and derivatives thereof. These may be present in amounts ranging from about 0.00001 to about 2%, preferably between about 0.01 and about 0.5% by weight of the composition.
  • Colorants and fragrances may also be included in the compositions of the present invention. These may be present in amounts ranging from about 0.05 to about 5%, preferably between about 0.1 and about 3% by weight of the composition.
  • compositions of the present invention will also include water (preferably distilled or deionised) , as a solvent or carrier for the other components.
  • Water will typically be present in amounts ranging from 30% to 98%, preferably from 60% to 95%, most preferably from 70% to 95% by weight based on total weight.
  • compositions of Examples 1 and 2 were compared with a comparative sample, Pond's Tsuru-Tsuru Whipping, a make-up cleansing foam from Japan, to assess their relative make-up removal efficacy.
  • Subjects 10-30 subjects, male and female.
  • the first readings are taken (CLEAN) .
  • Colour make-up is applied to the marked area in a manner consistent with its use. Cosmetics are applied in a standardized way to ensure that approximately equal weights of products are transferred and that coverage of the test area is uniform. Make-up is allowed to dry or set for 10 minutes. Mascara - Spread uniformly, using spatula for even coverage.
  • An assignment schedule is used to rotate the test materials across the six test sites.
  • the following table shows the samples tested and the percentage of efficacy to remove mascara (Chromameter measurements and visual scores) .
  • the number of panelists was 10 for each sample.
  • compositions of the present invention are effective at removing long lasting make-up products, such as mascara.
  • compositions of the present invention performed well compared to a known make-up removing composition.
  • the composition of Example 2 was particularly effective at removing mascara.
  • compositions of the above examples provide superior make-up removal performance compared to other makeup removal compositions currently on the market.
  • Example 4 Mildness and skin irritation tests
  • compositions were randomised amongst the subjects who were questioned regarding the performance of the compositions for skin irritation.
  • the sequential for preference test was processed using Friedman analysis and frequency tables.
  • compositions were evaluated on a scale from moderate irritation to non-irritating.
  • compositions of the present invention were found to have comparable mildness to the skin and/or eyes when compared with the subject's usual products for removing make-up from their eyes .

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique aqueuse pouvant être utilisée comme démaquillant, laquelle composition contient : a) une solution de tensioactifs comprenant : i) un tensioactif à base de sulfate d'alkyle, ii) un tensioactif à base de phosphate d'alkyle, iii) un tensioactif à base de succinate d'alkyle et iv) un tensioactif amphotère, b) un propulseur et c) un phospholipide à base de silicone et de tensioactif combiné.
PCT/EP2004/003657 2003-04-08 2004-03-30 Composition cosmetique WO2004089320A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB0308062A GB0308062D0 (en) 2003-04-08 2003-04-08 Cosmetic composition
GB0308062.9 2003-04-08

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2004089320A1 true WO2004089320A1 (fr) 2004-10-21

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AR (1) AR043995A1 (fr)
CL (1) CL43629B (fr)
GB (1) GB0308062D0 (fr)
WO (1) WO2004089320A1 (fr)

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2878440A1 (fr) * 2004-11-26 2006-06-02 Oreal Composition de nettoyage sous forme de mousse aerosol sans tensioactif anionique et utilisations en cosmetique
WO2006108522A1 (fr) * 2005-04-12 2006-10-19 Unilever Plc Tete de rasoir contenant une composition nettoyante douce en tant qu'auxiliaire de rasage
US7488709B2 (en) 2004-11-26 2009-02-10 L'oreal S.A. Cleansing composition in the form of an aerosol foam without anionic surfactant, and uses in cosmetics
EP2590621A4 (fr) * 2010-07-09 2015-07-29 Dial Corp Compositions antitranspirantes et procédés de fabrication associés
US10125754B2 (en) 2012-08-24 2018-11-13 Lg Electronics Inc. Reciprocating compressor having casing including inner and outer shells

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0541347A2 (fr) * 1991-11-07 1993-05-12 Unilever Plc Composition cosmétique
US6124490A (en) * 1999-10-26 2000-09-26 Mona Industries, Inc. Zwitterionic siloxane polymers and ionically cross-linked polymers formed therefrom

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0541347A2 (fr) * 1991-11-07 1993-05-12 Unilever Plc Composition cosmétique
US6124490A (en) * 1999-10-26 2000-09-26 Mona Industries, Inc. Zwitterionic siloxane polymers and ionically cross-linked polymers formed therefrom

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2878440A1 (fr) * 2004-11-26 2006-06-02 Oreal Composition de nettoyage sous forme de mousse aerosol sans tensioactif anionique et utilisations en cosmetique
EP1669103A1 (fr) * 2004-11-26 2006-06-14 L'oreal Composition de nettoyage sous forme de mousse aérosol sans tensioactif anionique et ses utilisations en cosmétique
US7488709B2 (en) 2004-11-26 2009-02-10 L'oreal S.A. Cleansing composition in the form of an aerosol foam without anionic surfactant, and uses in cosmetics
WO2006108522A1 (fr) * 2005-04-12 2006-10-19 Unilever Plc Tete de rasoir contenant une composition nettoyante douce en tant qu'auxiliaire de rasage
EP2590621A4 (fr) * 2010-07-09 2015-07-29 Dial Corp Compositions antitranspirantes et procédés de fabrication associés
US10125754B2 (en) 2012-08-24 2018-11-13 Lg Electronics Inc. Reciprocating compressor having casing including inner and outer shells

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CL43629B (es) 2005-05-27
GB0308062D0 (en) 2003-05-14
AR043995A1 (es) 2005-08-17

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