WO2001017613A1 - Procede physique pour decolorer des fibres keratiniques - Google Patents

Procede physique pour decolorer des fibres keratiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2001017613A1
WO2001017613A1 PCT/EP2000/008633 EP0008633W WO0117613A1 WO 2001017613 A1 WO2001017613 A1 WO 2001017613A1 EP 0008633 W EP0008633 W EP 0008633W WO 0117613 A1 WO0117613 A1 WO 0117613A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
light source
hair
light
pulse
range
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2000/008633
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
C. A. Schroeter
Original Assignee
Spectraflex B.V.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Spectraflex B.V. filed Critical Spectraflex B.V.
Priority to AU74169/00A priority Critical patent/AU7416900A/en
Priority to EP00962439A priority patent/EP1214120A1/fr
Publication of WO2001017613A1 publication Critical patent/WO2001017613A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L4/00—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/81—Preparation or application process involves irradiation

Definitions

  • the present invention describes a physical process for permanent bleaching of natural keratin fibers.
  • the permanent, more or less complete decolorization of keratin fibers has a variety of uses in different industrial and cosmetic areas.
  • the chemical bleaching agents preferred for cosmetic use consist of a carrier mass and an oxidizing agent, which are mixed with one another before use and have a pulpy consistency to which keratin fibers (e.g. human hair) are applied.
  • keratin fibers e.g. human hair
  • Almost exclusively hydrogen peroxide in an alkaline environment is used as bleaching agent, the solid urea-hydrogen peroxide adduct being used as the hydrogen peroxide donor (H. Ncugebauer, Cosmetic Products, in: Handbuch dermaschinechemie, Vol. IX, Berlin 1970).
  • reductive rinsing e.g. with thiosulfate, ascorbic acid or glyoylic acid is required in chemical treatment processes.
  • the conventional treatment methods for permanent bleaching of hair can cause irreparable damage to the keratin substance.
  • the cuticle and especially the hair shafts often become so rough that they become uncombable (WC Wagonner, GV Scott, J. Soc. Cos et. Soc, 17, 171 (1966)), tend to become matted and threaten to break (Ullman (Ed.), ⁇ ⁇ xikon der Technischen Chemie. 5th edition 1985, vol. 12 p. 437 ff).
  • Bleaching also massively reduces the tensile strength of hair (R. Beyak, C. Meyer, GS Kass, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chern ,, 20, 615 (1 69) and E. Sidi, C.
  • the technical disadvantage of the method is the use of laser light (Nd-Yag laser), which both requires a high level of equipment and thus expensive, and also requires special precautions in handling.
  • the invention presented here solves the problems described above in an elegant manner by completely dispensing with chemical pretreatment and by using a non-coherent, high-energy flashlight.
  • excess heat is used as a medium to dissipate excess heat or water.
  • cut-off filters are preferred, but it has been shown in practice that in practice this has been even better This is probably due to the increased penetration depth of longer-wave light quantum, which increases the overall quantum yield during treatment, and in practice cut-orf filters in the range from 51 to 590 nm have proven their worth.
  • Lang gcpulsie low-energy flashes of light are more suitable for physical bleaching because they promote heat dissipation. Too short light pulses (with constant energy) or too short intervals between the pulses lead to damage to the treated hair.
  • Electron microscope images of the hair cuticle show no surface damage after physical bleaching.
  • the mechanical stability of the hair after physical bleaching was determined on the basis of the bundle tensile strength.
  • Elongation ratio of the initial hand length to the hair length at the time of tearing
  • Tear strength force at the time of tearing
  • Delta F force at the point of tearing between the individual fibers of a fiber bundle (10 per
  • Modulus of elasticity ratio of tension / elongation / at the time of tearing
  • dark blonde hair strands (color values: 1 / 36.09; a * -7.23; b * -15.75 (D65 light)) were moistened with water and mixed with two Singlc light pulses with a pulse duration of 10 sec Irradiated distance of about 10 sec.
  • the energy density of the flash was 30 J / cm 2 .
  • a pulsable gas discharge flash light lamp from TBW was used.
  • a cut-off filter separated all wavelengths below 515 nm from the spectrum.
  • the hair strands were separated and 40 individual hairs were clamped in a frame and measured with a spectrophotometer.
  • the color value difference of the hair tears after the treatment gave a DL of 5.3, a Da * of 1.1 and a Db * of 4.5 (D65 light). This difference corresponds to a lightening of the hair color from dark blonde to light blonde.
  • the cystine concentration before and after the treatment remained essentially unchanged (see Table 1).
  • dark blonde hair tears (color values: L-36.09; a * ⁇ 7.23; b * H 5.75 (D65 light)) were moistened with water and with two Singlc light pulses with a pulse duration of 10 irradiated msec at intervals of approx. 10 sec.
  • the energy density of the flash was 30 J / cm 2 .
  • a pulsable gas discharge flash lamp from IBW was used.
  • a cut-ot ⁇ filter separated all wavelengths below 590 nm from the spectrum.
  • the strands of hair were separated and 40 individual hairs were clamped in a frame and measured with a spectrophotometer.
  • the color value directivity of the hair tears after the treatment gave a DL of 1.3, a Da * of 0.5 and a Db * of 6.1 (D65 light). This difference corresponds to a lightening of the hair color from dark blonde to white blonde.
  • the cystine concentration decreased slightly as a result of the treatment (see Table 1), but to a much lesser extent in relation to the chemical reductive / oxidative bleaching.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé physique pour décolorer des fibres kératiniques, consistant à traiter les fibres avec une lumière d'une source lumineuse pulsée, non cohérente, présentant une faible ou une haute densité énergétique comprise de préférence entre 0,5 et 100 J/cm<2>. La source lumineuse se présente de préférence sous la forme d'une source lumineuse à décharge gazeuse, dont la composante spectrale lambda </= 500 nm est de préférence supprimée.
PCT/EP2000/008633 1999-09-03 2000-09-04 Procede physique pour decolorer des fibres keratiniques WO2001017613A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AU74169/00A AU7416900A (en) 1999-09-03 2000-09-04 Physical method for bleaching keratin fibers
EP00962439A EP1214120A1 (fr) 1999-09-03 2000-09-04 Procede physique pour decolorer des fibres keratiniques

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE19942074A DE19942074A1 (de) 1999-09-03 1999-09-03 Physikalisches Verfahren zur Bleiche von Keratinfasern
DE19942074.2 1999-09-03

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2001017613A1 true WO2001017613A1 (fr) 2001-03-15

Family

ID=7920710

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2000/008633 WO2001017613A1 (fr) 1999-09-03 2000-09-04 Procede physique pour decolorer des fibres keratiniques

Country Status (4)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1214120A1 (fr)
AU (1) AU7416900A (fr)
DE (1) DE19942074A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2001017613A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2869799B1 (fr) 2004-05-04 2006-07-28 Oreal Procede et systeme de decolaration optique de fibres keratiniques, notamment de cheveux, par emission d'un rayonnement lumineux
FR3020569B1 (fr) * 2014-04-30 2017-09-15 Oreal Procede de decoloration ou de coloration des fibres keratiniques mettant en oeuvre une composition oxydante et un rayonnement uv-visible

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4792341A (en) * 1986-06-19 1988-12-20 Clairol Incorporated Hair photobleaching
EP0736308A2 (fr) * 1995-03-29 1996-10-09 ESC Medical Systems Ltd. Dispositif et procédé d'épilation à l'aide d'un rayonnement électromagnétique pulsé
US5725600A (en) * 1994-05-04 1998-03-10 L'oreal Process for improving the results of cosmetic treatments performed on bleached hair

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4792341A (en) * 1986-06-19 1988-12-20 Clairol Incorporated Hair photobleaching
US5725600A (en) * 1994-05-04 1998-03-10 L'oreal Process for improving the results of cosmetic treatments performed on bleached hair
EP0736308A2 (fr) * 1995-03-29 1996-10-09 ESC Medical Systems Ltd. Dispositif et procédé d'épilation à l'aide d'un rayonnement électromagnétique pulsé

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP1214120A1 (fr) 2002-06-19
DE19942074A1 (de) 2001-03-08
AU7416900A (en) 2001-04-10

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