US3314092A - Shoemaking process - Google Patents

Description

April 18, 1967 J. PUJOL 3,314,092

SHOEMAKING PROCESS Filed July 5, 1963 2 Sheets-Sheet FlG. l

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INVENTOR. JAIME PUJOL gilyw r/ww ATTORNEYS April 18, 1967 I J. PUJOL 3,314,092

SHOEMAKING PROCESS Filed July 1963 2 Sheets-Sheet z FIG. 6

BY m 4. FIG.IO $817M ATTOR NEYS United States Patent 3,314,092 SHOEMAKING PROCESS Jaime Pujol, 2-B Grove Road, Kingston, Jamaica Filed July 3, 1963, Ser. No. 292,648 Claims. (Cl. 12-142) This invention comprises a new and improved process useful in the manufacture of mens, womens and childrens shoes of cushion type. It has the advantage of producing shoes of light weight and strong construction which at the same time follow accurately the fine lines of the last upon which they are made. The shoes are flexible and present a smooth and attractive inside finish. The process may be carried out easily and conveniently without special apparatus and it facilitates many of the regular shoemaking operations. The invention also includes Within its scope a novel insole uriit which includes the sock lining as one ply and also an enclosed cushion ply which is arranged to be exposed in the lasted shoe bottom.

These and other features and advantages of the invention will be best understood and appreciated from the following description of a preferred manner of carrying it out as shown in the accompanying drawings in which:

FIG. 1 is a plan view of one of the insole plies,

FIG. 2 is a plan view of the sock lining ply of the insole unit to which is attached the cushion ply,

FIG. 3 is an edge view corresponding to FIG. 2,

FIG. 4 is a plan view of the assembled insole and sock lining plies,

FIG. 5 is a view in perspective of the closed and lined pp FIG. 6 is a view suggesting the step of stitching together the lining of the upper and the insole unit,

FIG. 7 is a fragmentary view showing the gauge used in this operation,

FIG. 8 is a plan view showing the insole unit as stitched to the lining flange of the upper,

FIG. 9 is a view in perspective showing the lasted shoe, and

FIG. 10 is a cross sectional view of the lasted shoe.

In preparing the insole unit a blank 10 of the proper shape is first cut from still fiberboard or insole board and in this blank is defined a removable area 12 by means of slits which hold it in semi-detached condition. The area 12 occupies generally the metatarsal portion of the sole blank and etxends rearwardly to the heel breast line. Transverse slits 13 are formed in the edge of the blank at the toe portion and slits 14 at substantially the heel breast line.

The sock lining ply 15 of the insole unit is shown in FIG. 2. This ply is of upper leather or other sock lining material and corresponds in contour to the insole blank 10. Secured to its inner face is a cushion ply of foam rubber or the like having a forepart 16 and a heel seat portion 17. This ply is also provided with transverse slits 18 at the toe end and slits 19 at the heel seat end. The slits 18 and 19 are located in the vicinity of the slits 13 and 1-4 of the insole but they do not register so that no bunch is formed in the composite insole unit when the flange of the lining is subsequently drawn inwardly through the slits.

The closed upper 21 as shown in FIG. 5 is provided with a fabric lining 22 and this lining is provided at both sides with flanged extensions 23. The lining is cemented to the upper 21 except in the area of the flanges 23. The flanges are provided with transverse slits 24 and 25 in locations corresponding approximately to the transverse slits already described in the insole unit.

The upper and insole units are assembled and united through the forepart off the last as suggested in FIGS. 6 and 7, that is to say, the flanges 23 of the lining are overlapped by the margin of the insole unit and stitched together by a line of stitching 26 on each side of the upper. This operation is facilitated by a gauge 30 having a slot 31 in which is received the edge of the insole unit and a notch 32 in which is received the edge of the flange 23 of the upper. It will be understood that the insole unit on account of its stiff ply 10 presents a solid and well defined gauging edge. The two components of the shoe are thus brought accurately into registration and united by the stitch line 26 as the assembled parts are drawn through the gauge 30. The inner edge of the lining is guided into conformity with the bulge in the sock lining caused by the enclosed cushion ply 16-17.

At the conclusion of the stitching operation the ends of the lining flanges 23 are brought up edgewise through the transverse slits of the insole unit and cemented to the flat underlying face of the ply 10 as shown in FIG. 8.

When the plies 10 and 15 of the insole unit are united by cementing them together the enclosed cushion ply 16- 17 causes the sock lining ply 15 to follow the contour of the cushion in the area marked 15' in FIG. 4. The marginal portions of the ply 15 are skived or roughened in areas '20 to facilitate a cement bond between them and the flanges 23 of the lining.

As shown in FIG. 6, the flanges 23 are laid fiatwi'se just within the skived margins 20 of the insole, cemented in place and secured by the stitch line 26 which runs close to the contour of the bulge 15' of the insole. The flanges 23 of the lining are then folded outwardly, one after the other, and cemented to the skived margins 20* of the insole, thus making a close edge jointur e with the outer edge of the insole and producing a rolled edge in the lining inside the shoe. The last may be slipped into the shoe at this stage or immediately after the lining extensions are folded and cemented to the insole unit.

The last 33 is shown in the upper as indicated in FIG. 9 thus presenting the assembled parts of the shoe in con- Venient position for the side, toe and heel lasting operations. The lasting margin 27 of the upper is shown as cement-lasted to the insole. The removable area 12 of the insole blank 10 is now removed thus making space for the cushion ply 16 which has been enclosed in the sock lining and increasing the flexibility of the insole as a whole by removing a substantial area of the stiff material of this ply. The shoe may now be completed by laying and attaching an outsole 28. It is desirable to leave the area 12 in place until the last has been inserted as it gives increased stability to the upper, but if desired that area may be removed at any earlier stage of the process.

Having thus disclosed my invention and described in detail an illustrative embodiment thereof, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent:

1. The shoemaking process comprising the steps of making a line of spaced slits in an insole blank to define a removable area, in the central portion thereof laminating the slitted blank with a sock lining having a cushion ply and thus enclosing the cushion ply, lasting an upper to the margin of the insole blank, and after the lasting step removing the defined area from the insole to expose the enclosed cushion ply.

2. The shoemaking process comprising the steps of marking an insole blank to define a removable area in the central portion thereof, laminating the marked blank with a sock lining having a cushion ply enclosed by the blank, providing a lined upper having a central marginal flange to the lining thereof, sewing to the laminated insole the marginal lining flange of said upper, inserting a last, lasting the upper, and then after the lasting step bulge outwardly and removing the defined area from the insole blank to expose the enclosed cushion ply.

3. The shoemaking process as defined in claim 2 and comprising the steps of assembling oil? the last an upper having a marginally flanged lining with an insole unit, overlapping the flange of the lining upon the said unit while leaving the margin of the upper free, sewing the flange of the lining to the inner face of the unit in conformity to the bulge of the cushion ply, inserting a last, and lasting the margin of the upper to the outer face of the unit. 7

4. The shoemaking process comprising the steps of assembling an upper having a lining with a marginal extension flange and an insole unit having spaced marginal transverse slits therein, overlapping the flange of the lining with the unit between said transverse slits and folding the ends of the lining flange through said transverse slits, stitching the overlapped portion of the lining flange to the unit, inserting a last, and lasting the sides of the upper to the exposed face of the insole unit.

5. The shoemaking process defined in claim 4, further characterized by the steps of slitting one ply of the insole unit to define a removable area in the cental portion thereof prior to assembly with the lining, removing said area after the lasting operation and filling the cavity thus provided with cushion material.

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS JORDAN FRANKLIN, Primary Examiner.

F. I. COHEN, Examiner.

A. R. GUEST, Assistant Examiner.

Claims (1)

1. THE SHOEMAKING PROCESS COMPRISING THE STEPS OF MAKING A LINE OF SPACED SLITS IN AN INSOLE BLANK TO DEFINE A REMOVABLE AREA, IN THE CENTRAL PORTION THEREOF LAMINATING THE SLITTED BLANK WITH A SOCK LINING HAVING A CUSHION PLY AND THUS ENCLOSING THE CUSHION PLY, LASTING AN UPPER TO THE MARGIN OF THE INSOLE BLANK, AND AFTER THE LASTING STEP REMOVING THE DEFINED AREA FROM THE INSOLE TO EXPOSE THE ENCLOSED CUSHION PLY.

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