US2439900A - Method of making platform shoes - Google Patents

Description

April 20, 1948. E. E. MURPHY METHOD OF MAKING PLATFORM SHOES Filed July 9. 1945 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 f fo. n e m I Ever-eff E Mnbhy April 20, 1948. E. E. MURPHY METHOD OF KING PLATFORM SHOES Filed July 9, 1945 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 l muy nuw.

. .Hull llllll April 20, 1948. E. E. MURPHY METHOD OF MAKING PLATFORM SHOES Filed July 9, 1945 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 zvenor Evere- ENur/bhy April 20, 1948. E E, MURPHY 2,439,900

METHOD OF MAKING PLATFORM SHOES Filed July 9, 1945 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 In ven t0 r Evere# E HLTPLZ/ Patented Apr. 20, 1948 METHOD F MAKING PLATFORM SHOES Everett E. Murphy, Marblehead, Mass., asignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application July 9, 1945, Serial No. 603,920

(Cl. 12-142l 20 Claims. l

This invention relates to shoes and methods of making shoes and is illustrated herein with particular reference to methods of making platform shoes, that is, shoes having midsoles or platform soles in addition to inner and outer soles.

In making shoes of the type referred to, it nas been the usual practice heretofore to assemble an upper, a flexible insole or sock lining, and a platform wrapper off a last and stitch them together at adjacent margins, after which the united assembly would be slip lasted by inserting a last into the pocket formed by the upper and sock lining. While this method in general is satisfactory and produces fairly good results, the lasting of the upper by the slip lasted method sometimes results in poorly shaped uppers or uppers which do not hug the last as closely as they should at all portions of the last. There is also the danger of tearing the upper or breaking the stitches by this method if the last is too large. Consequently, the patterns and shoe parts must be designed and cut out with great accuracy as to size and shape and they must be assembled, marked, and stitched together oil a last with considerable skill and care if the united upper and sock lining are to it the last properly when the latter is inserted into the upper. This procedure, of course, involves extra time and expense in the manufacture of the shoes and, even then, it is practically mpossble to obtain a slip" lasted upper that is as tight and smooth on the last as an upper that has been worked into lasted position over a last and secured in such position by attachment to an insole or other shoe bottom member.

Objects of the present invention are to overcome the disadvantages referred to above in making platform shoes and to provide an improved method of making such shoes that will insure a tightly lasted, well-shaped upper while eliminating the necessity of pretting the shoe parts or securing them together with the accuracy and care that are required in the slip lasting method.

To these ends, the invention provides, in accordance with one aspect, an improved method of making platform shoes which consists in assembling a, midsole or platform soie on a last with a shoe upper and securing the upper in lasted relation to such sole, thereby conforming the upper closely to the shape of the last. As herein illustrated, the midsole or platform sole 1s composed of relatively thick yielding material and it preferably has a. thin ilexible insole or sock 'ining secured to its inner surface and edge face 2 portion before it is mounted on the last. The upper may be secured ln lasted relation to the platform sole in any usual or convenient manner to hold it temporarily in lasted position, this being accomplished, if desired, by staples, tacks, binding wires or similar fastening means.

In order to secure the upper permanently in lasted relation to the platform sole, the latter, in accordance with the present method, is provided on its outer or exposed surface with a channel, illustrated herein as an inside channel, which preferably extends around the entire marginal portion of the sole including its heel portion. The upper is permanently secured in lasted relation to the platform sole by attaching its marginal portion to the periphery of the. sole by stitches which pass through the upper and the edge face of the platform sole and are located in the channel in the sole. In this way a tight lasting operation is obtained because the stitches tend to pull the upper in closely against the surface of the last.

Since the edge face of the platform sole is covered by the upper after the latter has been secured to the sole in the manner described above, it is desirable to have a platform wrapper in position to simulate the covered edge face of a platform sole in order to give the shoe the appearance of a conventional type platform shoe. Accordingly, in the present method when the upper is being stitched to the edge portion of the platform sole, a platform wrapper of substantial width is secured to the upper by the stitches that secure the upper to the sole, the platform wrapper extending upwardly beyond the stitches with its lower edge substantially flush with the outer surface of the platform sole and with its upper portion free from the upper. The platform wrapper is thereafter turned over upon itself along the line of stitches and Wrapped downwardly and inwardly over the outer surface of the platform sole and secured thereto, thereby giving the appearance of a conventional platform wrapper covering the edge face of a platform sole.

It is also desirable in the present construction to provide a iirm edge portion opposite the platform sole as well as to cause what appears to be the covered edge face of the platform sole to stand out distinctly between the upper and outsole or, in other words, to cause this edge portion to appear to be the covered edge face of the platform sole itself. This is accomplished, in accordance with the method herein illustrated, by providing an additional strip of relatively stiff material approximately equal in width to the thickness of the platform sole and attaching this filler strip and the platform wrapper to the upper by the stitches which secure the wrapper and upper to the edge portion of the platform sole.

The filler strip, as illustrated herein. may be composed of leather, fabric, plastic. or similar material and is located on the margin of the platform wrapper so that it will be positioned substantially opposite to. or in alinement with, the edge face of the platform sole. Preferably, and as herein illustrated, the filler strip is attached to the platform wrapper before the latter is stitched with the upper to the edge of the platform sole, the attachment of the ller strip to the platform wrapper being eected by cement, stitches or other fastening means. If desired, however, the filler strip may be left separate from the platform wrapper until the latter is to be attached with the upper to the sole. the filler strip being then attached to the platform wrapper by the stitches which secure the wrapper and upper to the edge portion of the Platform sole. Thereafter, the platform wrapper is turned downwardly over and around the filler strip and wiped inwardly over the outer face of the platform sole and is secured to'said outer face in any usual or convenient manner. as, for example. by cement. An outsole is then attached to the inturned portion of the platform wrapper to complete the construction of the shoe except for the usual finishing operations. If a wedge heel is desired on the shoe, it may be layed on the platform sole after the upper and platform wrapper. or wrapper and filler strip. have been attached to the edge portion of the platform sole. In such case, the platform wrapper will be cut wide enough around the heel portion of the shoe to cover the wedge heel.

As a modification of the present construction, the platform wrapper may be wrapped entirely around the filler strip and secured thereto, thus completely covering the filler strip. the combined strips being then secured with the upper to the edge portion of the platform soie bystitclies located in the channel in the sole. As another modification of the invention, the platform wrapper may be formed of transparent materials, such as plastic. and a relatively wide filler strip of colored opaque material may be utilized therewith. After being secured together as described above. or stitched with the upper to the platform sole, both the platform wrapper and the filler strip may be turned over upon themselves and downwardly with the wider platform wrapper enclosing the filler strip and turning inwardly over the outer surface of the platform sole and being secured thereto. In this construction. the opaque filler strip completely conceals the stitches and may also provide a varied or contrasting color effect opposite the edge face of the platform sole because the colored illler strip will. of course, show through the transparent platform wrapper.

With the above and other objects and aspects in view. including the construction of a forepart platform shoe in accordance with the present method. the invention will now be described in detail in connection with the accompanying drawings and will thereafter be pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a midsole or platform sole adapted for use in the present invention. the outer surface of the sole having a channel formed therein;

Fig. 2 is a cross section of the platform sole taken on the line II-II of Fig. 1. a thin flexible insole or sock lining being shown in position to be secured to the sole;

Fig. 3 is a sectional view similar to Fig. 2 after the sock lining has been secured to the inner surface and edge face of the platform sole;

Fig. 4 is a cross section of another type of platform sole which may be used in the shoe, the outer surface of the sole and the channel being reinforced with fabric material;

Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional view of a laminated type of platform sole which may be used. the sole comprising an outer layer of relatively firm material having a channel formed therein, and an in ner layer of yielding material;

Fig. 6 shows the platform sole of Fig. 1 assembled on a last with a shoe upr zr, the upper having been pulled over the last Fig. 'l shows the shoe after the upper has been lasted, the toe and heel portions of the upper being secured by binding wires and the shank portion being secured by staples;

Fig. 8 is an enlarged cross-sectional view through the shank portion of the shoe after lasting, the section being taken 0n the line VIII- VIIII in Fig. 7;

Fig. 9 is a cross-sectional view through the forepart of the shoe taken on the line IX-IX in Fig. 7;

Fig. 10 is a perspective view of portions of a platform wrapper and a ller strip adapted for use in the present shoe:

Fig. 1i shows the platform wrapper and ller strip of Fig. 10 after the ller strip has been secured to a margin of the platform wrapper;

Fig. 12 is a section similar to Fig 9 after the combined platform wrapper and filler strip have been attached to the upper and platform sole by stitches located in the channel in the sole;

Fig. 13 shows the shoe after the margin of the upper has been trimmed flush with the outer surface of the platform sole;

Fig. 14 is a side view of the shoe showing the platform wrapper and filler strip secured to the upper by stitches and a wedge heel mounted on the shoe bottom, the platform wrapper being in the position shown in Fig. 13:

Fig. 15 is a sectional view similar to Fig. i3 after the platform wrapper has been turned downwardly over the ller strip. wiped inwardly over the outer surface of the platform sole and secured thereto;

Fig. 16 is a sectional view showing the platform shoe after an outsole has been attached to the inturned portion of the platform wrapper;

Fig. 17 is a sectional view of a modification of the shoe in which only a platform wrapper is secured to the upper and platform sole by stitches;

Fig. i8 shows the shoe of Fig. 17 after the platform wrapper has been turned over upon itself, wiped inwardly and secured to the outer surface of the platform sole;

Fig. 19 is a perspective view similar to Fig. 10 showing portions of another type of platform wrapper and filler strip which may be used in constructing the present shoe;

Fig. 20 is a perspective view showing the piatform wrapper of Fig. 19 wrapped completely around the filler strip and secured thereto:

Fig. 21 illustrates the combined platform wrapper and filler strip of Fig. 20 attached to the assaaoo marginofalastedupperbystitcheswiththe free portion of the platform wrapper turned over the nller strip and secured to the outer surface of a platform sole:

Fig. 22 is a sectional view illustrating still another type of platform wrapper and filler strip which may be used in making the shoe. the platform wrapper being transparent and the ller strip being opaque and of sufficient width to be turned over upon itself and downwardly with the platform wrapper;

Fig. 23 is a sectional view showing the platform wrapper and filler strip of Fig. 22 turned over and downwardly with the platform wrapper wiped inwardly and secured to the outer surface of the platform sole;

Fig. 24 is a perspective view of a forepart platform sole having a channel formed in its outer surface similar to the sole of Fig. 1:

Fig. 25 is a. side view of the forepart platform sole and a sock lining for covering the inner surface and edge face of the sole;

Fig. 26 is a perspective view of a heel and shank piece adapted for use with the forepart sole of Fig. 24;

Fig. 27 is a perspective view showing the sole units of Figs. 25 and 26 assembled and mounted on a last bottom;

Fig. 28 is a cross-sectional view showing the upper at the forepart of the shoe secured in lasted relation to the sole unit of Fig. 27, the upper being held in position by tacks;

Fig. 29 is a fragmentary sectional view showing the upper at the shank portion of the shoe secured in lasted relation to the sole unit by cement, an outsole being indicated in broken lines on the shoe bottom;

Fig. 30 is a section through the forepart of the shoe after the platform wrapper and filler strip have been attached to the upper by stitches with the platform wrapper wrapped around the filler strip and inwardly over the platform sole; and

Fig. 31 is a perspective view of the completed shoe marie in accordance with the method illustrated in Figs. 24 to 30. inclusive, the shoe being of a usual construction at the shank and heel portions and having a conventional type heel rather than a wedge heel.

In carrying out the present invention, in accordance with the method illustrated herein, a platform sole Il) of relatively thick yielding material such as felt, cork composition or the like is provided, as shown in Fig. l, the outer surface I3 of the sole having an inside channel I2 formed therein which extends around the entire marginal portion of the sole. After the platform sole I has been channeled, as illustrated in Figs. l and 2, the inner surface and edge face of the sole are covered with a layer of thin, flexible material Il which may be leather, such as that of which a usual sock lining or flexible insole is composed, although the layer ll may be of other materials, such as canvas, duck or similar fabrics. The insole or sock lining I4 is secured to the inner surface of the platform sole preferably by cement and the marginal portion thereof is turned up. as shown at l in Fig. 3, to cover the edge face of the sole. The platform sole and sock lining are, of course, cut to the proper size and shape before being assembled together in the manner illustrated. the sole being made a sumcient amount smaller than a last bottom to allow for the subsequent attachment of a platform wrapper and a filler strip in a manner to be later described.

Fig. 4 illustrates another type of midsole or platform sole l! which may be used in practicing the invention in place of the sole Il of Fis. 3. the outer surface of the sole Il having an inside channel 48 formed therein and being reinforced with a sheet of fabric material Il which also lines the channel. The inner surface and edge face of the sole IB are preferably covered with a thin exible insole or sock lining 52 in the manner described above. Fis. 5 illustrates still another type of platform sole which may be used in carrying out the method. this sole being of laminated construction consisting of a thin outer layer 5I of relatively firm material. such as leather, which has had an inside channel 56 cut therein, and an inner layer 58 of yielding material. such as felt, cork or similar material, the inner surface and edge face of the sole being covered with a exi-ble sock lining 6D.

The platform sole lll of Fig. l, covered with the sock lining 44, as shown in Fig. 3, or one of the constructions shown in Figs. 4 and 5, is assembled on a last 62 with an upper B4 having a usual lining 65, as illustrated in Fig. 6, and the upper is pulled over the last and secured in position by assembling tacks 66 and pulling-over tacks B8 located at the heel and toe ends 0i' the upper, respectively. The upper 64 is then worked into lasted relation to the platform soleI as shown in Fig. '1, and the toe portion of the upper is secured in lasted position by a toe wire 1D held in place by tacks 12. The heel portion of the upper is secured in lasted relation to the platform sole 40 by a binding wire i4 secured in position by tacks 15, and the side portions of the upper at the shank portion of the shoe are secured in lasted position against the edge of the platform sole by staples 18, as illustrated in Figs. '7 and 8, the staples extending through the upper, sock lining and edge portion of the platform sole and being anchored in the channel 42. Fig. 9 illustrates how the forepart of the shoe will appear when the upper has been secured in lasted position by the toe wire lll and tacks l2.

After the upper has been lasted to the platform soie, as described above. the shoe is ready to receive the further operations which comprise the steps of the present method. A platform wrapper 82 (Fig. l0) is provided, composed of a strip of thin flexible material, such as leather. fabric or artiiiical leather, and the strip is cut to the proper width. the portion of the strip extending around the heel portion of the shoe, tf a wedge heel is to be used, being cut sufficiently wider than the remaining portion of the strip. as shown in Figs. l0 and i1, to cover the wedge heel. In addition to the platform wrapper 82, there is also provided a relatively narrow strip I4 of somewhat stiffer material than the wrapper, such, for example, as leather or plastic material. The platform wrapper 82 and the relatively stiff strip Il, which may conveniently be termed a filler strip, are secured to the lower margin of the lasted upper 64 and to the platform sole 40. as shown in Fig. l2, with the platform wrapper engaging the upper and the filler strip Il resting against the platform wrapper, the upper edges of these members, as viewed in Fig. l2, being in substantial alinement with the outer surface of the platform sole. The two strips are secured to the upper and platform sole by stitches Il which extend through the platform wrapper, the filler strip, the upper, and the edge portion of the platform sole, the stitches being drawn into the bottom of the inside channel I2 and thus pulling the upper tightly against 7 the last. The stitching operation may be conveniently performed with the aid of any conventional type of sewing machine adapted for this kind of work, such, for examplel as a welt attaching machine or inseam sewing machine, the binding wires and tacks being removed as usual before the stitching operation takes place. Examples of machines adapted to perform this operation are those of the types disclosed in United States Letters Patent Nos. 1,108,650 and 2,041,945 granted August 25, 1914 and May 26, 1936 on applications filed respectively in the names of Andrew Eppler and Alfred R. Morrill.

It will be noted in Fig. 12 that the stitches 8G are located near the lower edge of the filler strip 8l, or near its upper edge when the shoe is right side up. They extend through the two members l2, 84, the upper B4 and lining 65, the sock lining Il covering the edge face of the platform sole, and the portion of the platform sole between the channel and the edge face of the sole. The stitches are inclined slightly upwardly. as illustrated in Figs. 12 and 13, in order to enter the channel 42.

If it is more convenient, the filler strip 8| may be secured to the margin of the platform wrapper 82, as illustrated in Fig. il, before these members are stitched with the upper to the edge of the platform sole I0, the upper edges of the members, as indicated above, being located in substantial alinement with each other and the attachment being effected by cement 85 or other convenient fastening means, such as stitches or staples. When the platform wrapper B2 and the filter strip 8l are permanently attached with the upper to the edge portion of the platform sole by the stitches 88, the upper is pulled in tightly against the last 62 so that it conforms closely to the shape of the last. Accordingly, the completed shoe will have the shape of a shoe which has 4been built on a last or lasted in the usual manner rather than a shoe in which the upper, platform wrapper, filter strip, and sock lining have been secured to each other oil' a last and the last then inserted into the upper to effect a so-called "slip lasting operation. The excess material at the marginal portion of the upper, indicated by the numeral 8B in Fig. 12, is now trimmed oil' substantially flush with the outer sunface 43 of the platform sole 40. Figs. 13 and 14 show the shoe at this stage of the process, a wedge heel 30 having been placed on the shoe bottom, in Fig. 14, although the use of a wedge heel is optional.

The platform wrapper 02 is now turned over around the illler strip I. as illustrated in Fig. 15, and wrapped downwardly (upwardly as viewed in Fig. l) and inwardly over the outer surface of the platform sole I0, the inturned Vportion of the wrapper being secured fiat against the outer surface of the platform sole by cement indicated by the numeral 92. The inturned portion of the platform wrapper is next roughened lightly in the usual manner to prepare it for cement and any suitable cement. such as pyroxylin, is applied to the roughened surface and allowed to dry. The cement on the platform wrapper is thereafter activated by a solvent in the usual manner and an outsole 94 (Fig. 16) is cement-attached to the inturned portion of the wrapper, the cement for attaching the outsole being indicated by the numeral 9B. The platform shoe made in accordance with the presenrl method is now completed except for the usual finishing operations. If the shoe is of the wedge heel type, such as illustrated in Fig. 14, the heel portion of the platform wrapper 82 will be wrapped downwardly around the wedge heel 00 and inwardly over its outer surface and the margin of the wrapper will be secured to said surface by cement, as indicated above, the rear or heel portion of the platform wrapper, as illustrated in Figs. 10 and 14, having been cut wide enough to cover the sides of the wedge heel and to extend inwardly a short distance over its bottom surface to permit the wrapper to be permanently secured to said surface.

In Figs. 17 and 18, the construction of the shoe` is substantially the same as that described above, except that the platform wrapper B2 alone is secured to the upper 64 and lining 65 by stitches 86 which pass through the wrapper and upper and into the edge portion of the platform sole 40, the stitches being located in the inside channel I2. The platform Wrapper 82 in Fig. 18 is turned over upon itself and downwardly along the line of stitches B6 and its marginal portion is wiped inwardly over the outer surface 43 of the platform sole and secured thereto by cement 92. The construction illustrated in Figs. 17 and 18, therefore, merely dispenses with the filler strip which, in the previous construction, was located substantially opposite the edge face of the platform sole to stiffen and accentuate that edge face. The present construction, however, gives the appearance of a conventional type platform shoe the same as the previous construction because the platform wrapper B2, when doubled over upon itself, is substantially the same width heightwise as the thickness of the platform sole, it is located substantially opposite the edge face of the platform sole, and it stands out from the upper in a manner similar to the covered edge face of a platform sole in the usual platform shoe constructions.

The platform soles in the shoes disclosed herein may, if desired, be reinforced, as illustrated in Figs. l'l and 18, by a row of stitches 98 passing heightwlse through the sole and located near the outer edge or bottom of the channel 42, these stitches serving to prevent the sole from tearirg outwardly from the channel and acting also as a means for holding the stitches 8B or preventing them from pulling out of the sole.

As a further modification of the present invention, the illustrated method provides a relatively exible platform wrapper |00 and a somewhat stiffer filler strip |02, as shown in Fig. 19, the two members being secured together, as illustrated in Fig. 20, by Wrapping the platform wrapper completely around the illler strip |02 and permanently sefcuring the members together in such position, preferably by cement |04. When this type of combined filler strip and platform wrapper is used, the shoe will appear as shown in Fig. 21 after the platform wrapper has been turned over and wrapped around the filler strip a second time and then wiped downwardly and inwardly over the outer face of the platform sole.

It may be desirable to make a platform shoe in accordance with the present invention but to provide more variety or character to the appearance of the shoe, as, for example, by producing a pleasing color effect between the upper, platform sole and outsole. A still further modification of the invention is illustrated in Figs. 22 and 23 in which the shoe is assembled on a last and lasted in the manner described above but is provided with a platform wrapper |06 of transparent material, such. for example. as a plastic material such as vinyl resin, Vinylite or some of the other plastic materials now available iii-sheet form and adaptable for use for such purposes. In the construction illustrated in Figs. 32 and 23, the platform wrapper |06 of transparent material and a filler strip |08 somewhat wider than the previous filler strips are secured with the upper i4 to the edge face portion of the platform sole 4|I by the stitches 86. the filler strip being composed of a colored strip of material such as leather, artificial leather or plastic material which is opaque so that, when the platform wrapper and ller strip are turned over and downwardly upon themselves, as illustrated in Fig. 23, the opaque filler strip will conceal the stitches 86 and will provide a finished edge appearance on the platform shoe which also produces a pleasing color effect in combination with the upper, the outsole or both, the colored opaque ller strip showing through the transparent platform wrapper opposite the edge portion of the platform sole. The platform wrapper |06 will extend inwardly over the trimmed edge of the upper and the outer surface 43 of the platform sole to which it will be permanently secured by cement 92 or other fastening means, as previously described. In the shoes illustrated in Figs. 17 to 23, inclusive, the final steps of the method consist merely in attaching outsoles to the inturned portions of the platform wrappers, preferably by cement, applying heels or heel lifts in the usual manner, and then performing the customary finishing operations to complete the shoes. Y

As a further modification of the platform shoe disclosed herein, Figs. 24 to 31, inclusive, illustrate a shoe of a type in which the forepart only is of platform construction, the shank and heel portions of the shoe being of usual construction. A forepart platform sole |I|l is provided of thick yielding material having an inside channel H2 formed around the margin of its outer surface Il 4, the rearward portion of the forepart sole being skived or beveled to a relatively thin edge IIS, as shown in Fig. 25. A thin flexible sock lining I0, preferably composed of leather or fabric material. is provided of sufficient length to reach approximately to the heel-seat portion of a fulllength sole member, and a premolded shank and heel unit of laminated construction and preferably having a steel shank stiffener embodied therein (Fig. 26) is also provided, two of the layers of the shank and heel piece being separated at their forward ends to receive the beveled end portion ||6 of the forepart sole. 'I'he forepart platform sole ||Il and the shank and heel piece |20 are attached together at their adjoining end portions to form a complete sole unit and the inner surface and edge face of the unit are covered with the sock lining ||8 rearwardly to about the heel-seat portion of the unit. The sole unit is then assembled on a last |22 with an upper |24, as illustrated in Figs. 27 and 28, and the upper is worked over the last and secured in lasted relation to the sole unit by any usual means, such as tacks |26 (Fig. 28) which are removed prior to stitching the upper to the platform sole. The shank and heel portions of the upper are lasted directly to the shank and heel piece|2|l by securing them fiat against the outer surface of said member, preferably by cement, as illustrated in Fig. 29.

A platform wrapper |28 (Fig. 30), extending rearwardly only to the shank portion of the shoe, and a relatively sti' ller strip |30 of the same length are secured to the edge face portion of the forepart platform sole ||0, together with the upper |24, by stitches |32 which are located in the inside channel H2. the excess portions of the upper, platform wrapper and filler strip being then trimmed off as described above. The free upper portion of the platform wrapper is turned downwardly (upwardly in Fig. 30) over the filler strip |30 and then inwardly over the outer surface of the forepart platform sole H0. said free portion being secured to the outer surface of the sole by cement. An outsole |04 (shown in broken lines in Figs. 29 and 30) is then attached to the shoe bottom in any usual or convenient manner, after which a heel |3l may be applied to the outsole to complete the construction of the shoe except for the usual finishing operations, the 1inished shoe being illustrated in Fig. 31.

Since the shoe illustrated in Figs. 24 to 31, inclusive, is of platform construction at its forepart only, the shank and heel portions thereof will consist merely of the shank and heel piece |20. inside the shoe, and the outsole |34 outside the shoe below the upper. In other words, no platform wrapper and no filler strip will appear around the periphery of the shoe bottom at the shank and heel portions of the shoe. The forepart platform shoe of Fig. 31 may. if desired, be constructed in accordance with any of the other modications described herein, for example, the contrasting color effect of Figs. 22 and 23 may be utilized in the forepart of the shoe, or the filler strip may be entirely covered by the platform wrapper, as in Fig. 20, or the 1111er strip may be omitted altogether. as shown in Figs. 17 and 18. In all the constructions described above, however, the shoe will always have a tightly lasted upper conforming closely to the shape of the last upon which it was made and yet will also have the appearance of a conventional platform shoe around the periphery of its bottom or sole portion. If an insole of normal thickness is desired in the platform shoe or any of the modifications disclosed herein, such an insole may be inserted and secured in the shoe when the last is withdrawn after the shoe has been otherwise completed.

Having thus described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

l. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole of relatively thick yielding material, assembling the sole on a last with a shoe upper, securing the upper in lasted relation to the platform sole, thereby conforming the upper to the shape of the last, attaching a platform wrapper of thin flexible material to the upper substantially opposite the edge face of the platform sole with the upper portion of the platform wrapper free from the upper, trimming the upper substantially flush with the outer surface of the platform sole, wrapping the free portion of the platform wrapper downwardly and inwardly over the outer surface of the platform sole and securing it to said surface, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the platform Wrapper.

2. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole of relatively thick yielding material, mounting the platform sole on a last with a shoe upper, working the upper into lasted relation to the platform sole and securing it in such position, providing a platform wrapper substantially greater in width than the thickness of the assaooo platform sole, attaching the platform wrapper to the upper with one edge of the wrapper substantially flush with the outer surface of the platform sole and with its remaining portion free from the upper, wrapping the free portion of the platform wrapper downwardly toward the upper and wiping it inwardly over the outer surface of the platform sole and securing it to said outer surface, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the platform wrapper.

3. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole of relatively yielding material having a thin sock lining secured to its inner surface, assembling the platform sole on a last with a shoe upper, securing the upper in lasted relation to the platform sole, thereby conforming the upper to the shape of the last, providing a platform wrapper considerably wider than the thickness of the platform sole and sock lining, attaching said platform wrapper to the upper with the upper end portion of the wrapper substantially flush with the inner surface of the sock lining and with the remaining portion of the wrapper extending downwardly and inwardly over the platform sole, and attaching an outsole to the inwardly extending portion of the platform wrapper.

4. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole of relatively thick yielding material, assembling the platform sole on a last with a shoe upper, pressing the marginal portion of the upper against the edge face of the platform sole and securing it to the sole, attaching a platform wrapper of relatively thin flexible material to the upper by stitches which pass through the platform wrapper, the upper and the edge face of the platform sole, one edge of the platform wrapper being located substantially flush with the outer face of the platform sole and the remaining portion of the wrapper being free from the upper. turning the free portion of the platform wrapper downwardly toward the upper and wiping it inwardly over the outer face of the platform sole and securing it thereto by cement, and laying an outsole on the platform sole and securing it to the inturned portion of the platform wrapper.

5. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole of relatively thick yielding material having a sock lining of thin flexible material secured to its inner surface and edge face. assembling the platform sole on a last with a shoe upper, securing the upper in lasted relation to the platform sole, providing a platform Wrapper of greater width than the thickness of the platform solel securing the platform wrapper to the upper by stitches with the lower edge of the wrapper substantially flush with the outer surface of the platform sole, the stitches passing through the wrapper, the upper, the sock lining and the edge portion of the platform sole, turning the platform wrapper over upon itself and wrapping it downwardly and inwardly over the outer surface of the platform sole and securing it to said surface thereby covering the stitches, and attaching an outsole to the inwardly extending portion of the platform wrapper.

6. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole having a channel in its outer surface, assembling the platform sole on a last with a shoe upper, working the upper into lasted relation to the platform sole and securing it in such position, attaching a platform wrapper of thin 12 flexible material to the upper by stitches which pass through the platform wrapper, the upper and the edge portion of the platform sole and are located in said channel, the remaining portion of the platform wrapper being free from the upper, wrapping the free portion of the platform wrapper toward the upper and inwardly over the outer surface of the platform sole and securing lt against said surface, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the platform wrapper.

7. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole having an inside channel in its outer surface, providing a platform wrapper of thin flexible material for said sole, assembling the platform sole on a last with a shoe upper and securing the upper in lasted relation to said sole, attaching the platform wrapper to the upper by stitches which pass through the platform wrapper, the upper and the edge face of the platform sole and are located in the channel in said sole, trimming the margin of the upper substantially ush with the outer surface of the platform sole, turning the platform wrapper over upon itself and inwardly over the platform sole and securing it in such position, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the platform wrapper.

8. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole of relatively thick yielding material having a channel in its outer surface. assembling the platform sole on a last with a shoe upper, working the margin of the upper into lasted relation to the platform sole and securing it thereto by fastenings, providing a platform wrapper of relatively thin exible material of substantially greater width than the thickness of the platform sole, attaching the platform wrapper to the lower portion of the upper by stitches which pass through the platform wrapper, the upper and the edge portion of the platform sole and are located in the channel in said sole, trimming the margins of the upper and platform wrapper substantially ush with the outer surface of the platform sole, turning the platform wrapper over upon itself and inwardly over said trimmed margins and the outer surface of the platform sole and securing it in such position by cement, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the platform wrapper.

9. 'I'hat improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole of relatively thick yielding material. assembling said sole on a last with a shoe upper and securing the upper in lasted relation to the sole. attaching a platform wrapper and a filler strip to the upper and platform sole by stitches which pass through the edge face of the platform sole, said filler strip being approximately equal in width to the thickness of the platform sole and the platform wrapper being of substantially greater width than the thickness of said soie. the lower edges of the platform wrapper and nller strip being substantially flush with the outer surface of the platform sole and the upper portion of the platform wrapper being free from the upper, turning the free portion of the platform wrapper downwardly over the filler strip and inwardly over the outer surface of the platform sole and securing it thereto, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the platform wrapper.

10. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a assaooo platform sole of relatively thick yielding material having an inside channel formed around the margin of its outer surface, assembling the -platform sole on a last with a shoe upper. securing the upper in lasted relation to the platform sole, providing a platform wrapper of relatively thin flexible material and of substantially greater width than the thickness of the platform soieI providing a iiller strip of stiifer material than the platform wrapper and approximately equal in width to the thickness of the platform sole, attaching both the platform wrapper and filler strip to the upper and platform soie by stitches which pass through the nller strip, platform wrapper, upper and edge portion of the platform sole and are located in the channel in said sole, the filler strip being positioned substantially opposite the edge face of the platform soie and the platform wrapper extending above the filler strip free from the upper. trimming the excess portions of the upper. platform wrapper and illler strip substantially ilush with the outer surface of the platform sole, turning the free portion of the platform wrapper downwardly over the filler strip and inwardly over the outer surface of the platform sole and securing it in such position, thereby covering the filler strip and stitches. and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the platform wrapper.

11. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole of yielding material. assembling said sole on a last with a shoe upper. securing the upper in lasted relation to the platform sole. providing a platform wrapper of thin flexible material of substantially greater width than the thickness of the platform sole, stitching the platform wrapper to the upper with its lower edge in substantial alinement with the outer surface of the platform sole and with the upper portion of the platform wrapper free from the upper. the stitches passing through an intermediate portion of the platform wrapper, the upper, and the edge portion of the platform sole, trimming the upper flush with the outer surface of the platform sole and lower edge of the platform wrapper, turning the free portion of the platform wrapper over upon itself and wrapping it downwardly and inwardly over the upper and outer surface of the platform sole and securing it to said outer surface, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the platform wrapper.

l2. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole of relatively thick yielding mate rial having an inside channel formed in its outer surface, assembling the sole on a last with an upper and securing the upper in lasted relation thereto, providing a platform wrapper of substantial width, attaching the platform wrapper to the upper by stitches which pass through the platform wrapper, the upper, and the edge face of the platform sole and are located in the channel in said sole, trimming the margin of the upper substantially flush with the outer face of the platform sole, turning the platform wrapper over upon itself and downwardly and inwardly over said outer face and securing it in such position by cement, thereby covering the stitches which secure the platform wrapper to the upper. and applying cement to the inturned portion of the platform wrapper and attaching an outsole thereto.

13. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes whichconsists in providing a platform sole of relatively yielding material. assembling said sole on a last with a shoe upper, securing the upper in lasted relation to the platform sole, providing a platform wrapper of relatively thin exible material of considerably greater width than the thickness of the platform sole, providing a filler strip of stiffer material than the platform wrapper and approximately equal in width to the thickness of the platform sole, attaching the platform wrapper and filler strip to the upper with the lower edges of said members substantially hush with the outer surface of the platform sole, the ller strip being located substantially opposite the edge face of said sole and the platform wrapper extendixm above the ller strip free from the upper, turning the free portion of the platform wrapper over and downwardly around the filler strip and inwardly over the outer surface of the platform sole and securing it to said outer surface, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the platform wrapper.

14. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole having an inside channel formed in its outer surface and a thin sock lining cured to its inner surface and edge face, providing a flexible platform wrapper for the platform sole having a less flexible filler strip secured to one margin thereof, assembling the platform sole on a last with an upper and securing the upper in lasted relation to said sole, attaching the platform wrapper to the upper by stitches which pass through the filler strip. platform wrapper, upper, sock lining, and the edge face of the platform sole and are located in the channel in said sole, the upper portion of the platform wrapper being free from the upper, trimming the margin of the upper substantially flush with the outer surface of the platform sole, turning the free portion of the platform wrapper downwardly over the filler strip and inwardly over the outer surface of the platform sole and securing it to said outer surface, and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the platform wrapper.

l5. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole having a stitch receiving channel in its outer surface and a sock lining covering its inner surface and edge face, providing a platform wrapper of thin flexible material having a filler strip of stiffer material secured to its lower margin, said filler strip being approximately equal in width to the thickness of the platform sole, assembling the platform sole on a last with an upper and securing the upper in lasted relation to said sole, attaching the platform wrapper and filler strip to the lower portion of the upper with the bottom edges of said members in substantial allnement with the outer surface of the platform sole by stitches which pass through the filler strip, platform wrapperl upper, sock lining and the edge face of the platform sole and are located in the channel in said sole, the upper portion of the platform wrapper being free from the upper, turning the free portion of the platform wrapper downwardly over the filler strip and inwardly over the outer surface of the platform sole and securing it in such position, thereby covering the filler strip and stitches, and cement-attaching .an outsole to the platform sole and inturned portion of the platform wrapper.

16. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a plataisaeoo form sole of relatively thick yielding material, assembling the sole on a last with a shoe upper, securing the upper in lasted relation to the platform sole, providing a platform wrapper of relatively thin flexible material considerably wider than the thickness of the platform sole, providing a filler strip of less flexible material approximately equal in Width to the thickness of the platform sole, securing the nller strip to the lower margin of the platform wrapper with the adjacent edges of the members substantially flush with each other, attaching the combined members to the upper with the filler strip located opposite the edge face of the platform sole and with the upper portion of the platform wrapper free from the upper, turning the free portion of the platform wrapper downwardly over the filler strip and wiping it inwardly over the platform sole and securing it to the outer surface of said sole, thereby covering the filler strip, and attaching an outsole to the inwardly extending portion of the platform wrapper.

1'7. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole of relatively thick ilexible material having an inside channel in its outer surface, assembling the platform sole on a last with a shoe upper, securing the upper in lasted relation to the platform sole, thereby conforming the upper to the shape of the last, providing a platform wrapper of transparent material substantially greater in width than the thickness of the platform sole, providing a filler strip of opaque colored material approximately twice as wide as the thickness of the platform sole but narrower than the platform wrapper, stitching said platform wrapper and filler strip to the upper and platform sole with the bottom edges of the wrapper and strip substantially flush with the outer surface of the platform sole, the stitches passing through the filler strip, platform wrapper, upper and the edge face of the platform sole and being located in the channel in said sole, the portions of said platform wrapper and filler strip above the line of stitches being free from the upper, turning the free portions of the platform wrapper and filler strip over upon themselves and downwardly and wiping the platform wrapper inwardly over the filler strip and the outer surface of the platform sole and securing it to said outer surface, thereby concealing the stitches by the opaque filler strip and enclosing said filler strip within the transparent platform wrapper. and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the platform wrapper.

18. That improvement in methods of securing a thin flexible platform wrapper to the sole of a shoe, which consists in assembling a platform sole and an upper, providing a thin flexible platform wrapper having a filler strip along one edge thereof, positioning the wrapper with the filler strip in substantial alinement with the edge face of the sole while leaving the upper portion of the wrapper free of the upper. and securing the wrapper and filler strip in position.

19. 'I'hat method of assembling a shoe with a thin flexible platform wrapper applied to the sole of the shoe, which consists in providing a platform sole and an upper with the upper secured in lasted relation to the marginal portion of the sole, attaching a filler strip to one margin oi' the platform wrapper, locating the wrapper relatively to the upper and sole by positioning the filler strip in substantial alinement with the edge face of the sole while leaving the wrapper free of the upper, and stitching the wrapper and filler strip to the upper and sole by sewing through both the wrapper and the filler strip by a single seam.

20. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole, assembling the platform sole with an upper, providing a thin flexible platform wrapper having a i'lller strip along one edge thereof, attaching the platform wrapper to the upper and sole with the filler strip in substantial alinement with the edge face of the platform sole while leaving the upper portion of the wrapper free, turning the free portion of the platform wrapper downwardly over the filler strip and inwardly over the outer surface of the platform sole and securing it thereto. and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the wrapper.

EVERETT E. MURPHY.

Certificate of Correction Patent No. 2,439,900.

April 2o, 194s.

EVERETT E. MURPHY It is hereby certified that error appears in the printed specification of the above numbered patent requiring correction as follows:

Column 7, line 10, for the patent number 1,108,650 read 1,108,560; and that the said Letters Patent should be read with this correction therein that the same may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Office.

Signed and sealed this 17th day of May, A. D. 1949.

THOMAS F. MURPHY,

Assistant Umnmz'saoner of Patents.

aisaeoo form sole of relatively thick yielding material, assembling the sole on a last with a shoe upper, securing the upper in lasted relation to the platform sole, providing a platform wrapper of relatively thin flexible material considerably wider than the thickness of the platform sole, providing a filler strip of less flexible material approximately equal in Width to the thickness of the platform sole, securing the nller strip to the lower margin of the platform wrapper with the adjacent edges of the members substantially flush with each other, attaching the combined members to the upper with the filler strip located opposite the edge face of the platform sole and with the upper portion of the platform wrapper free from the upper, turning the free portion of the platform wrapper downwardly over the filler strip and wiping it inwardly over the platform sole and securing it to the outer surface of said sole, thereby covering the filler strip, and attaching an outsole to the inwardly extending portion of the platform wrapper.

1'7. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole of relatively thick ilexible material having an inside channel in its outer surface, assembling the platform sole on a last with a shoe upper, securing the upper in lasted relation to the platform sole, thereby conforming the upper to the shape of the last, providing a platform wrapper of transparent material substantially greater in width than the thickness of the platform sole, providing a filler strip of opaque colored material approximately twice as wide as the thickness of the platform sole but narrower than the platform wrapper, stitching said platform wrapper and filler strip to the upper and platform sole with the bottom edges of the wrapper and strip substantially flush with the outer surface of the platform sole, the stitches passing through the filler strip, platform wrapper, upper and the edge face of the platform sole and being located in the channel in said sole, the portions of said platform wrapper and filler strip above the line of stitches being free from the upper, turning the free portions of the platform wrapper and filler strip over upon themselves and downwardly and wiping the platform wrapper inwardly over the filler strip and the outer surface of the platform sole and securing it to said outer surface, thereby concealing the stitches by the opaque filler strip and enclosing said filler strip within the transparent platform wrapper. and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the platform wrapper.

18. That improvement in methods of securing a thin flexible platform wrapper to the sole of a shoe, which consists in assembling a platform sole and an upper, providing a thin flexible platform wrapper having a filler strip along one edge thereof, positioning the wrapper with the filler strip in substantial alinement with the edge face of the sole while leaving the upper portion of the wrapper free of the upper. and securing the wrapper and filler strip in position.

19. 'I'hat method of assembling a shoe with a thin flexible platform wrapper applied to the sole of the shoe, which consists in providing a platform sole and an upper with the upper secured in lasted relation to the marginal portion of the sole, attaching a filler strip to one margin oi' the platform wrapper, locating the wrapper relatively to the upper and sole by positioning the filler strip in substantial alinement with the edge face of the sole while leaving the wrapper free of the upper, and stitching the wrapper and filler strip to the upper and sole by sewing through both the wrapper and the filler strip by a single seam.

20. That improvement in methods of making platform shoes which consists in providing a platform sole, assembling the platform sole with an upper, providing a thin flexible platform wrapper having a i'lller strip along one edge thereof, attaching the platform wrapper to the upper and sole with the filler strip in substantial alinement with the edge face of the platform sole while leaving the upper portion of the wrapper free, turning the free portion of the platform wrapper downwardly over the filler strip and inwardly over the outer surface of the platform sole and securing it thereto. and attaching an outsole to the inturned portion of the wrapper.

EVERETT E. MURPHY.

Certificate of Correction Patent No. 2,439,900.

April 2o, 194s.

EVERETT E. MURPHY It is hereby certified that error appears in the printed specification of the above numbered patent requiring correction as follows:

Column 7, line 10, for the patent number 1,108,650 read 1,108,560; and that the said Letters Patent should be read with this correction therein that the same may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Office.

Signed and sealed this 17th day of May, A. D. 1949.

THOMAS F. MURPHY,

Assistant Umnmz'saoner of Patents.

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