US3230916A - Method and apparatus for forming of buttonholes - Google Patents

Method and apparatus for forming of buttonholes Download PDF

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US3230916A
US3230916A US236496A US23649662A US3230916A US 3230916 A US3230916 A US 3230916A US 236496 A US236496 A US 236496A US 23649662 A US23649662 A US 23649662A US 3230916 A US3230916 A US 3230916A
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Prior art keywords
fabric
needle
buttonhole
forming
lip
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Expired - Lifetime
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US236496A
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Chezaud Jean Claude
Mangieri Dominique
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Rhodiaceta SA
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Rhodiaceta SA
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B37/00—Devices incorporated in sewing machines for slitting, grooving, or cutting
    • D05B37/02—Slitting or grooving devices
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H25/00—Appliances or methods for marking-out, perforating or making buttonholes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H25/00—Appliances or methods for marking-out, perforating or making buttonholes
    • A41H25/02—Buttonhole shears
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B37/00—Devices incorporated in sewing machines for slitting, grooving, or cutting
    • D05B37/04—Cutting devices
    • D05B37/10—Cutting devices with heated tools

Definitions

  • the buttonholes are formed by means of special sewing machines, which first form the embroidery of that portion of the article which will be one of the lips of the buttonhole, then form a stitch, termed a stopping stitch at one end of the lip, then form the embroidery of the second lip with a return movement of the fabric and finally form a second stopping stitch.
  • This hot cutting,v when carried out. after the formation of the buttonhole, constitutes a supplementary and delicate operation which is frequently the cause of defects.
  • a method of forming a buttonhole in an article of thermoplastic fabric using a sewing machine having a stitching needle comprising embroiderin-g the stitches for forming the first lip of the buttonhole by moving the fabric relative to the machine in a first direction, embroidering the stitching forming the second lip of the buttonhole by moving the fabric relative to the machine in a direction opposite to the first direction and hot cutting the fabric as the stitching of the second lip is effected the means for cutting being operated slightly in arrear of the stitching needle.
  • apparatus for forming buttonholes in thermoplastic fabric comprising a sewing machine having a needle and needle plate, means for translating fabric relative to said needle and plate first in one direction and then in the opposite direction, a cutting member movable between an out-of-the-way position below said plate and an operative position in which it projects above the plate to the side of the needle which is in arrear of the needle when the fabric is translated in said opposite direction, and means for heating the cutting member, the arrangement being such that, when fabric is caused to move in one direction, the cutting 3,233,916 Patented Jan.
  • the means for translating the fabric may take any suitable form.
  • they may take the form of feed means as illustrated in United States Patent No. 2,421,712 to Nichols issued June 3, 1947.
  • the cutting member is preferably fixed on a resilient support disposed on the needle plate and emerges through an opening formed in the latter. Heating thereof is advantageously controlled by the working cycle of the sewing machine so as to be set in operation with the start of the formation of the second lip of the buttonhole and to be stopped as soon as this operation is completed.
  • the method and apparatus according to the invention have the advantage of not complicating the working zone on the machine, since the cutting member is preferably located on the needle plate and it is no longer necessary to provide supplementary members maintaining the position of the two lips of the buttonhole during the formation thereof. In addition, this formation is carried out in a better manner, since it is made before the hot cutting of the fabric. Any danger of slipping of the fabric during the operation is thus avoided.
  • FIGURES 1 and 2 show diagrammatically a section of part of apparatus according to this invention, and illustrate respectively the position of the cutting member of such apparatus during the formation of the first lip and the second lip of the buttonhole and
  • FIGURE 3 is a diagram of the electric control circuit for the heating of the cutting member of the apparatus, the diagram also showing a number of the parts of the apparatus in detail and the relative positions of these parts in the apparatus.
  • FIGURES 1 and 2 the heated cutting member indicated by the reference 1 is mounted on a resilient support 2, enclosed in the opening 3 formed in the lower face of the needle plate 4 of a sewing machine.
  • the fabric T passes, as shown, between the needle plate and the usual presser foot 5.
  • the cutting member which is not heated, is urged into the opening 3 by the pressure of the fabric.
  • the fabric is moved by feed means such as those of aforementioned US. Patent No. 2,421,712, in a first direction as indicated by the arrow 17.
  • the heated cutting member is urged by its resilient support against the fabric and causes the melting of fabric over the entire length of the buttonhole.
  • the fabric is moved by the feed means in the opposite direction as indicated by the arrow 18.
  • the cutter 1, during this movement is in arrear of the needle hole 16 through which the needle of the sewing machine passes.
  • FIGURE 3 shows a buttonholing machine 6 of a type known per se and of which only the outline has been shown for greater simplicity.
  • the main members controlling the heating of the cutting member are shown separately and in diagrammatic form to a larger scale.
  • a 3-phase supply source is adapted to be connected to a supply circuit 8 of the machine via a main switch 9.
  • Two of the phases supply the primary of a transformer 10 included in the heating circuit of the cutting member, which is connected to two conducting elements 7 and 7 these being insulated from the needle plate and connected to the secondaryof the transformer 10.
  • Also included in the heating circuit are a switches 12 and 13.
  • the first micro-switch 12 which is connected to a lever 14 controlling the running of the machine, disconnects the heating circuit when the machine is stopped. Thus, in the event of the thread breaking or any accident, the operator can manually control the machine and repair the damage Without the cutting member becoming operative.
  • the second micro-switchlS is connected to a cam 15 controlling the automatic production of the buttonhole.
  • the switch 11 is closed manually and lever 14 actuated to close the micro-switch 12.
  • the cam closes micro-switch 13, completing the circuit and thus heating the cutting member 1.
  • the cam opens micro-switch 13 thus cutting off the heating.
  • a method of forming a buttonhole in an article of thermoplastic fabric using a sewing machine having a stitching needle comprising embroidering the stitches for forming the first lip of the buttonhole by moving the fabric relative to the machine in a first direction, em'broidering the stitching forming the second lip of the 'buttonhole by moving the fabric relative to the machine in a direction opposite to the first direction and hot cutting the fabric as the stitching of the second lip is effected the means for cutting being operated slightly in arrear of the stitching needle.
  • a method of forming a buttonhole in an article of thermoplastic fabric using a sewing machine having a stitching needle comprising embroidering the stitches for forming the first lip of thevbuttonhole.
  • Apparatus for forming a buttonh-ole in thermoplastic fabric comprising a sewing machine having a needle and needle plate, means for translating fabric relative to said needle and plate first in one direction and switch 11 and two micro then in the opposite direction, a cutting member movable between an out-of-the-waypositionbelowsaid plate and an operative position in which it projects above the plate to the side of the needle which is in arrear of the needle when the fabric is translated in said opposite direction, and means for heating said cutting member, means for moving said cutting member into its operative position and control means operable on said heating means and coupled to said means for translating said fabric so as to actuate said heating means when said fabric is being translated in said opposite direction.
  • Apparatus for forming buttonholes in thermoplastic fabric such. apparatus comprising a sewing machine having a needle; a needle plate disposed beneath said needle; means defining an aperture in said needle plate; a cutting member disposed beneath said plate and on one side thereof a spring urging said cutting member through said aperture; electrical heating means for heating said cutting member; means for translating fabric over said plate from said needle in a direction towards said cutting member; further means for translating fabric in the direction opposite to-said direction and control means effective to cause said heating means to heat said cutting member on operation of said further means.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
  • Materials For Medical Uses (AREA)

Description

Jan. 25, 1966 J. c. CHEZAUD ETAL 3,230,916
METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR FORMING 0F BUTTONHOLES Filed Nov. 9, 1962 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Inward. oYs JQa-m c/aalz. CACLlQ-J. "Pic"; B uq' //a V\.
w Q. Ma.
Attorney Jan. 25, 1966 J. C. CHEZAUD ETAL METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR FORMING OF BUTTONHOLES Filed Nov. 9, 1962 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 A ttofne y United States Patent f 3,230,916 METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR FORMING 0F BUTTONHOLES Jean Claude vChezaud,St-Rambert lIle Barbe, Pierre Buril- Ion, Lyon, and Dominique Mangieri, Cailloux sur Fontaine, France, assi'gnors to Socicte Rhodiaceta, Paris, France, a French body corporate Filed Nov. 9, 1962, Ser. No. 236,496 Claims priority, application France,,Nov. 13, 1961, 878,704 Claims. (Cl. 112-264) This invention relates to a method and apparatus for forming buttonholes.
During the manufacture of anticles of clothing such as shirts, blouses, etc., the buttonholes are formed by means of special sewing machines, which first form the embroidery of that portion of the article which will be one of the lips of the buttonhole, then form a stitch, termed a stopping stitch at one end of the lip, then form the embroidery of the second lip with a return movement of the fabric and finally form a second stopping stitch.
Normally opening of the buttonhole, that is to say cutting of the fabric between the two embroidered lips, is effected subsequently by means of a cutting device.
In the following description, the term lip will thus be used regardless of whether the buttonhole has already been cut or not.
When the fabric of the article is made from thermoplastic fibers, it is usual to cut the buttonhole with a hot cutting device so that the threads on the cut edges are welded, thus avoiding fraying of the lips of the buttonhole.
This hot cutting,v when carried out. after the formation of the buttonhole, constitutes a supplementary and delicate operation which is frequently the cause of defects.
It has already been proposed to carry out this hot cutting operation during the actual formation of the buttonhole on the machine, or in more precise manner, when forming the first lip of the buttonhole, the cutting device preceding the needle. However, this method of operation necessitates the provision on the machine of a number of supplementary members operating in the zone where the stitching is carried out. For example a pair of small rollers provided to keep the two lips of the buttonhole in position during the formation thereof. As a result of this the working zone is obstructed.
According to the present invention, there is provided a method of forming a buttonhole in an article of thermoplastic fabric using a sewing machine having a stitching needle, such method comprising embroiderin-g the stitches for forming the first lip of the buttonhole by moving the fabric relative to the machine in a first direction, embroidering the stitching forming the second lip of the buttonhole by moving the fabric relative to the machine in a direction opposite to the first direction and hot cutting the fabric as the stitching of the second lip is effected the means for cutting being operated slightly in arrear of the stitching needle.
According to another aspect of the invention there is provided apparatus for forming buttonholes in thermoplastic fabric, such apparatus comprising a sewing machine having a needle and needle plate, means for translating fabric relative to said needle and plate first in one direction and then in the opposite direction, a cutting member movable between an out-of-the-way position below said plate and an operative position in which it projects above the plate to the side of the needle which is in arrear of the needle when the fabric is translated in said opposite direction, and means for heating the cutting member, the arrangement being such that, when fabric is caused to move in one direction, the cutting 3,233,916 Patented Jan. 25, 1965 member remains in its out-o-f-the-way position and, when the fabric is caused to move in the opposite direction, the heated cutting member is caused to move into cutting contact with the fabric. The means for translating the fabric may take any suitable form. For example they may take the form of feed means as illustrated in United States Patent No. 2,421,712 to Nichols issued June 3, 1947.
The cutting member is preferably fixed on a resilient support disposed on the needle plate and emerges through an opening formed in the latter. Heating thereof is advantageously controlled by the working cycle of the sewing machine so as to be set in operation with the start of the formation of the second lip of the buttonhole and to be stopped as soon as this operation is completed.
The method and apparatus according to the invention have the advantage of not complicating the working zone on the machine, since the cutting member is preferably located on the needle plate and it is no longer necessary to provide supplementary members maintaining the position of the two lips of the buttonhole during the formation thereof. In addition, this formation is carried out in a better manner, since it is made before the hot cutting of the fabric. Any danger of slipping of the fabric during the operation is thus avoided.
In order that the invention may more readily be understood the following description is given, merely by way of example, with reference to the accompanying drawings. In the drawings:
FIGURES 1 and 2 show diagrammatically a section of part of apparatus according to this invention, and illustrate respectively the position of the cutting member of such apparatus during the formation of the first lip and the second lip of the buttonhole and FIGURE 3 is a diagram of the electric control circuit for the heating of the cutting member of the apparatus, the diagram also showing a number of the parts of the apparatus in detail and the relative positions of these parts in the apparatus.
In FIGURES 1 and 2 the heated cutting member indicated by the reference 1 is mounted on a resilient support 2, enclosed in the opening 3 formed in the lower face of the needle plate 4 of a sewing machine. The fabric T passes, as shown, between the needle plate and the usual presser foot 5.
Referring to FIGURE 1, during the formation of the first lip of the buttonhole, the cutting member, which is not heated, is urged into the opening 3 by the pressure of the fabric. During the formation of the first lip the fabric is moved by feed means such as those of aforementioned US. Patent No. 2,421,712, in a first direction as indicated by the arrow 17.
Referring to FIGURE 2, at the time of forming the second lip, the heated cutting member is urged by its resilient support against the fabric and causes the melting of fabric over the entire length of the buttonhole. During the forming of the second lip, the fabric is moved by the feed means in the opposite direction as indicated by the arrow 18. Thus the cutter 1, during this movement is in arrear of the needle hole 16 through which the needle of the sewing machine passes.
FIGURE 3 shows a buttonholing machine 6 of a type known per se and of which only the outline has been shown for greater simplicity. The main members controlling the heating of the cutting member are shown separately and in diagrammatic form to a larger scale. A 3-phase supply source is adapted to be connected to a supply circuit 8 of the machine via a main switch 9. Two of the phases supply the primary of a transformer 10 included in the heating circuit of the cutting member, which is connected to two conducting elements 7 and 7 these being insulated from the needle plate and connected to the secondaryof the transformer 10. Also included in the heating circuit are a switches 12 and 13.
The first micro-switch 12, which is connected to a lever 14 controlling the running of the machine, disconnects the heating circuit when the machine is stopped. Thus, in the event of the thread breaking or any accident, the operator can manually control the machine and repair the damage Without the cutting member becoming operative. The second micro-switchlS is connected to a cam 15 controlling the automatic production of the buttonhole.
In operation the switch 11 is closed manually and lever 14 actuated to close the micro-switch 12. As soon as the machine starts to cause the return movement of the fabric, the cam closes micro-switch 13, completing the circuit and thus heating the cutting member 1. As soon as the return movement of the fabric ceases the cam opens micro-switch 13 thus cutting off the heating.
We claim:
1. A method of forming a buttonhole in an article of thermoplastic fabric using a sewing machine having a stitching needle, such method comprising embroidering the stitches for forming the first lip of the buttonhole by moving the fabric relative to the machine in a first direction, em'broidering the stitching forming the second lip of the 'buttonhole by moving the fabric relative to the machine in a direction opposite to the first direction and hot cutting the fabric as the stitching of the second lip is effected the means for cutting being operated slightly in arrear of the stitching needle.
2. A method of forming a buttonhole in an article of thermoplastic fabric using a sewing machine having a stitching needle, such method comprising embroidering the stitches for forming the first lip of thevbuttonhole.
by moving the fabric relative to the machine in a first direction, embroidering the stitching forming the second lip of the 'buttonhole by moving the fabric relative to the machine in a direction opposite to the first direction and hot cutting the fabric as the stitching of the second lip is effected said hot cutting being automatically controlled by said sewing machine to be operated slightly behind said stitching needle.
3. Apparatus for forming a buttonh-ole in thermoplastic fabric, such apparatus comprising a sewing machine having a needle and needle plate, means for translating fabric relative to said needle and plate first in one direction and switch 11 and two micro then in the opposite direction, a cutting member movable between an out-of-the-waypositionbelowsaid plate and an operative position in which it projects above the plate to the side of the needle which is in arrear of the needle when the fabric is translated in said opposite direction, and means for heating said cutting member, means for moving said cutting member into its operative position and control means operable on said heating means and coupled to said means for translating said fabric so as to actuate said heating means when said fabric is being translated in said opposite direction.
4. Apparatus as specified in claim 3 and including means defining an opening in said plate and resilient means disposed beneath said plate urging said cutting member through said opening.
5. Apparatus for forming buttonholes in thermoplastic fabric such. apparatus comprising a sewing machine having a needle; a needle plate disposed beneath said needle; means defining an aperture in said needle plate; a cutting member disposed beneath said plate and on one side thereof a spring urging said cutting member through said aperture; electrical heating means for heating said cutting member; means for translating fabric over said plate from said needle in a direction towards said cutting member; further means for translating fabric in the direction opposite to-said direction and control means effective to cause said heating means to heat said cutting member on operation of said further means.
References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,640,283 8/ 1927 Miller 112-264 2,421,712 6/ 1947 Nichols 112-68 2,592,463 4/1952 Phillips 112-129 X 2,762,323 9/1956 Bernard 112-123 2,780,193 2/1957 Smith et a1. 112-264 2,874,660 2/1959 Holland l1268 FOREIGN PATENTS 1,166,478 6/ 1958 France.
847,582 8/ 1952 Germany.
715,154 9/1954 Great Britain.
878,414 9/1961 Great Britain.
ROBERT V. SLOAN, Primary Examiner.
DAVID J. WILLIAMOWSKY, JORDAN FRANKLIN,
' Examiners.

Claims (1)

1. A METHOD OF FORMING A BUTTONHOLE IN AN ARTICLE OF THERMOPLASTIC FABRIC USING A SEWING MACHINE HAVING A STITCHING NEEDLE, SUCH METHOD COMPRISING EMBROIDERING THE STITCHES FOR FORMING THE STRIP FIRST LIP OF THE BUTTONHOLE BY MOVING THE FABRIC RELATIVE TO THE MACHINE IN A FIRST DIRECTION, EMBROIDERING THE STITCHING FORMING THE SECOND
US236496A 1961-11-13 1962-11-09 Method and apparatus for forming of buttonholes Expired - Lifetime US3230916A (en)

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FR878704A FR1313177A (en) 1961-11-13 1961-11-13 Method and device for making buttonholes

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US3230916A true US3230916A (en) 1966-01-25

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BE (1) BE624651A (en)
CH (1) CH386218A (en)
ES (1) ES282524A1 (en)
FR (1) FR1313177A (en)
GB (1) GB984836A (en)
NL (1) NL285023A (en)
OA (1) OA01607A (en)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3380416A (en) * 1966-05-18 1968-04-30 Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Thread cutting device
US20120272883A1 (en) * 2011-04-26 2012-11-01 Tokai Kogyo Mishin Kabushiki Kaisha Heat Cutting Device For Embroidery Sewing Machine

Citations (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1640283A (en) * 1927-08-23 Method of forming stitched buttonholes
US2421712A (en) * 1943-01-09 1947-06-03 Reece Corp Buttonhole sewing machine
US2592463A (en) * 1946-10-10 1952-04-08 Warner Brothers Co Machine for cutting, processing, and/or seaming fabric or like sections and product thereof
DE847582C (en) * 1945-12-06 1952-08-25 Kasy Aktiebolag Method and device for making buttonholes in articles of clothing made of thermoplastic material and articles of clothing with such buttonholes
GB715154A (en) * 1952-03-05 1954-09-08 Autoseam Ltd Improved method and apparatus for joining textile fabrics
US2762323A (en) * 1951-10-23 1956-09-11 Bernard Silvere Serge Louis Device for assembling fabrics of synthetic material such as superpolyamide
US2780193A (en) * 1953-12-03 1957-02-05 Singer Mfg Co Methods of producing piped garment openings
FR1166478A (en) * 1956-11-05 1958-11-12 Improvements to buttonhole machines
US2874660A (en) * 1957-05-03 1959-02-24 Holland Albert Attachment for a buttonhole stitching machine
GB878414A (en) * 1958-03-10 1961-09-27 Harrimonde Ltd Improvements in or relating to buttonholes

Patent Citations (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1640283A (en) * 1927-08-23 Method of forming stitched buttonholes
US2421712A (en) * 1943-01-09 1947-06-03 Reece Corp Buttonhole sewing machine
DE847582C (en) * 1945-12-06 1952-08-25 Kasy Aktiebolag Method and device for making buttonholes in articles of clothing made of thermoplastic material and articles of clothing with such buttonholes
US2592463A (en) * 1946-10-10 1952-04-08 Warner Brothers Co Machine for cutting, processing, and/or seaming fabric or like sections and product thereof
US2762323A (en) * 1951-10-23 1956-09-11 Bernard Silvere Serge Louis Device for assembling fabrics of synthetic material such as superpolyamide
GB715154A (en) * 1952-03-05 1954-09-08 Autoseam Ltd Improved method and apparatus for joining textile fabrics
US2780193A (en) * 1953-12-03 1957-02-05 Singer Mfg Co Methods of producing piped garment openings
FR1166478A (en) * 1956-11-05 1958-11-12 Improvements to buttonhole machines
US2874660A (en) * 1957-05-03 1959-02-24 Holland Albert Attachment for a buttonhole stitching machine
GB878414A (en) * 1958-03-10 1961-09-27 Harrimonde Ltd Improvements in or relating to buttonholes

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3380416A (en) * 1966-05-18 1968-04-30 Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine Thread cutting device
US20120272883A1 (en) * 2011-04-26 2012-11-01 Tokai Kogyo Mishin Kabushiki Kaisha Heat Cutting Device For Embroidery Sewing Machine

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NL285023A (en)
CH386218A (en) 1964-12-31
FR1313177A (en) 1962-12-28
OA01607A (en) 1969-09-20
GB984836A (en) 1965-03-03
ES282524A1 (en) 1963-05-16
BE624651A (en)

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