US2596029A - Method of making shoes having a wrapper strip - Google Patents

Description

May 6, 1952 JONAS 2,596,029

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES HAVING A WRAPPER STRIP Filed Oct. 8, 1945 Patented May 6, 1952 METHOD OF MAKING SHOES HAVING A WRAPPER STRIP Gilbert F. Jonas, St. Louis, Mo., assignor to Boyd- Welsh, Inc., St. Louis, Mo., a corporation of Missouri Application October 8, 1945 Serial No. 621,115

3 Claims. 1

The present invention relates generally to the shoe making art, and more particularly to a novel method for making so-called platform type shoes.

It is an object of the invention to provide an attractive, lightweight, soft, flexible shoe with no unnecessary bulk which may include a platform, if desired, and which is made employing conventional processes and machinery.

It is a further object of the invention to provide a shoe of the foregoing type made on a last.

It is a further object of the invention to provide a shoe of the foregoing type which may have box toes and counters, or which may be made with open heels and open toes.

In the drawings:

Fig. l is a perspective view of the shoe in an early stage of manufacture;

Fig. 2 is a transverse section on the line 22 of Fi 1;

Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 1 in a subsequent stage of manufacture;

Fig. 4 is a transverse section on the line 4-4 of Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is a perspective View similar to Fig. 1 in an additional stage of manufacture, the shoe being of a different type;

Fig. 6 is a transverse section on the line 6-5 of Fig. 5.;

Fig. 7 is an upturned perspective view of a shoe showing the wrapping operation of the wrapper strip;

Fig. 8 is a transverse section on the line 88 of Fig. 7

Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 7 in a subsequent stage of manufacture with the turnover of the wrapper strip completed;

Fig. 10 is a transverse section on the line Ill-l ll of Fig. 9; and

Fig. 11 is a fragmentary transverse section of the completed shoe.

In performing the shoe-making operation, an upper 15 is prepared by standard methods. A last [6 is provided with a liner ll secured to its bottom surface. The upper I6 has a margin [8 that extends outwardly from the lower edge of the last. The liner [1 has marginal portions l9 extending outwardly from the last.

The lasting of the shoe may be performed mechanically by the use of any of the three common stitch-down methods; that is, it can be cement lasted, staple-lasted, or stitch-lasted. In any of the three operations, the margins l8 and 19 of the upper and liner, extending outwardly from the last, are joined. As shown in Fig. 1, the lasting is by staples 29.

After the shoe has been lasted, a wrapper strip 23 of lightweight leather or fabric is sewed at 24 completely around the lasted upper adjacent the lower edge of the last. It overlies the margin 2 18 of the upper. It will be seen that this wrapper strip is put on in such a way that the stitched edge protrudes upwardly. The unfinished face of the wrapper strip is toward the outside of the shoe, the finished face being next to the upper.

This piece of material can be put on either by a welt or turn-inseamer or by a stitch-down sole attaching machine. It is also possible to attach it by means of a stitch-down laster, the wrapper strip being put on at the same time the shoe is lasted, in which case staple lasting would not be used.

The shoe at this stage of the manufacture includes the upper, the liner, and the wrapper strip.

After the wrapper strip is fastened, the surplus margins of the upper and liners are trimmed even with the sewed edge of the wrapper strip, as shown in Figs. 5 and 6. The left sides of Figs. 5 and 6 show the trimming completed, and the right sides show it just prior to the trimming. This operation can be performed by a turn, welt, or stitch-down trimmer, or can be done manually. This operation is the same whether the shoe be one with openings at its toe or heel, as previously illustrated, or one with such parts closed as in Figs. 5 and 6.

If a platform is desired on a shoe, the platform material 21, previously cut to shape, can be cemented onto the liner at this point in the process. After the platform is in position, the strip is wrapped around an edge thereof, as shown in Figs. 7 and .8. It conceals not only the edge of the platform but also the edge of the upper and of the liner. If an imitation Platform is desired, the platform material 21 is omitted, and the wrapper strip is wrapped around the edges of the upper and the liner only. The thickness of the wrapper strip edge, the upper edge and the liner edge will give the shoe the appearance of having a light platform.

The shoe completed to this point with the wrapper strip wrapped over is shown in Fig. 9, with a cross section thereof in Fig. 10. Thereafter, the shank is put in place. and an outsole is attached by sewing or cementing. The heel may then be attached and the last removed. The outsole is shown in dotted lines at 3111 in Fig. 10, and is also shown in Fig. 11.

While the shoe illustrated is one with an open toe and an open heel, it will be equally evident that closed toes and heels may be provided by the use of this method. Also, box toes and counters may be used. When used, they will be supplied between the upper and its lining prior to the initial stitchdown operation illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2. Such counters and box toes are shown at 32 and 33 in Fig. 5, the lining part of the upper being shown at L in Fig. 6.

The closed heels. can be sewed completely 3 around the heel seat, or the wrapper strip can stop ahead of the heel seat and the heel be bedlasted in the conventional manner.

It will be seen that the shoe has all the advantages of both conventionally lasted shoes and of platform shoes and that it does not require the use of special machinery. It provides a shoe of the platform type that may be supplied with box toes and counters. It is light in weight, soft and flexible, with no unnecessary bulk. Where the platform is used, the foot rests directly upon a cushion of material with nothing but the liner between the foot and the platform.

What is claimed is: 1. A method of making shoes including th steps of providing an upper with a body portion and with marginal lasting edges extending beyond the limits of the body portion, providing a last with a liner on its bottom surface, the liner having marginal edges extending beyond the bottom of the last, applying the upper over the last, overlaying the marginal lasting edge of the upper and the marginal edge of the liner one over he other, securing the said marginal edges together and lasting the upper on the last, applying a wrapper strip to the shoe and attaching the same to the shoe adjacent the intersection of the upper and the liner, removing the surplus marginal edges of the elements, turning the wrapper strip over the bottom of the shoe, securing the same in position over the bottom of the shoe, and applying an outsole over the inturned margin of the wrapper strip and the bottom of the shoe, and thereafter withdrawing the last.

2. A method of manufacturing a shoe including the steps of providing a last with a piece of lining material on the bottom surface thereof having margins extending beyond the lateral limits of the last, applying over the last and upper having lower marginal edges, overlaying the marginal edges of the upper on the marginal edges of the liner one over the other, attaching the overlying edges and lasting the upper over the last, attaching one edge of a wrapper strip to the upper adjacent the intersection of the upper and the liner with the remaining part of the strip projecting upwardly, removing any excess of the marginal edges, wrapping said remaining part of the strip downwardly so that its projecting edge may turn in over the bottom of the shoe, securing said downturned edge in the position aforesaid, and attaching an outsole to the shoe.

3. A method of manufacturing a shoe including the steps of providing a last having a sock liner temporarily attached adjacent the bottom surface thereof, the edge of said liner extending beyond the limits of the last, providing an upper having a body portion and a lower marginal portion extending outwardly therefrom, applying the upper over the last so that the marginal portion of the upper is superimposed on top of the portion of the liner extending beyond the last, fastening the marginal portion and the liner together adjacent the bottom edge of the last with staples, providing a wrapper strip having an upwardly extending portion and an outwardly extending portion, positioning the wrapper strip with the outwardly extending portion thereof on top of the marginal portion, and stitching through the wrapper strip, the marginal portion of the upper, and the sock liner outside of the line of staples.

GILBERT F. JONAS.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 7 1,348,136 Dunbar July 27, 1920 1,764,105 Jung June 17, 1930 1,952,587 De Stefan Mar. 27, 1934 1,957,216 La Chapelle May 1, 1934 2,032,655 Finberg et al. Mar. 3, 193 2,062,530 Schmidt Dec. 1, 1936 2,063,633 Schulz Dec. 8, 1936 2,329,725 Mondl Sept. 21,1943 2,354,797 Cocozella Aug. 1, 19 4 2,446,286 Kamborian Aug. 3, 1948

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