US2259283A - Textile fabric - Google Patents

Description

Oct. 14, 1941. .A. H.l ADAMS, J`R ETAL TEXTILE FABRIC n Filed May 18, 1940 ll- Sheets-Sheet l FAB/EVC ATTORNEY Oct. 14, 1941. A. H. ADAMS, JR., ETAL 2,259,283

' TEXTILE FABRIC l Filed May 18, 1940 ll Sheets-Sheet 2 ,My-5w.

ATTORNEY Oct. 14, 1941. A. H. ADAMS. JR.,` ET Al. 2,259,283

V TEXTILE FABRIC Filed May V18, 1940 11 Sheets-Sheet 3 TEXTILE FABRIC Filed Mayle, 1940 11 sheets-sheet 4 Oct. 14, 1941. A. H. ADAMS, JR., E-r-AL 2,259,283

' l TEXTILE FABRIC Filed May 18, 1940 11 Sheets-sheet 5 BY (Pw-Mk ATTORNEY TEXTILE -FABRIC Filed ay 18, 1940` 11 sheets-Sheet 6 5MM ll vckt A. H. ADAMS, JR.. EI'AL .TEXTILE FABRIC i Filed may 18, 1940 11 Sheets-Sheet 7 Octg 14, 1941- A. H.ADAMs, JR., ETAL 2,259,283

TEXTILE FABRIC Filed May 18, 1940 ll Sheets-Sheet 8 ATTORNEY Oct. 14,1941.

A. H. Amlums,` JR., Erm. 2,259,283

TEXTILE FABRIC Filed lay 18, 1940 11 Sheets-Sheet 9 ATTORNEY 0t.14,1941. A. H. ADAMS, Jg., 'mL 2,259,283

TEXTILE FABRIC Filed May 18, 1940 n 11 VSheets-S1266?. 10

` ATTORNEY Oct. 14, 1941. 'A H, ADAMS, JR, Elf-AL 2,259,283 I TEXTILE FABRIC Filed llay 18, 1940 11 Sheets-Sheet 11 ATTORNEY Patented Oct. 14, 1941 TEXTILE FABRIC Arthur H. Adams, Jr., Florence D. Leech, and

Herman Epstein, Newark, N. J., assignors, by l direct and mesnc assignments, to Colorspace Patent Corporation, Newark, N. J.,a corporation of New Jersey Application May 1s. 194e. serial No. 335,938

l esclama. (ci. ss-169) This invention relates to new and useful im provements in textile fabrics, and more particularly in the planning of fabrics knit or crocheted of lpolychrome yarn.

Polychrome yarn consists of variously colored langths recurring in cycles. Such yarn may be knit into fabrics having a predetermined design 'by automatic machines as disclosed in Patent 2,186,814 to A. H. Adams, or manually in accordance with the. process disclosed in application Serial No. 327,247. filed April l, 194G,-

by Florence D. Leech, now Patent No. 2,228,633. In all the designs to be hereinafter disclosed, we are recommending that the method disclosed' in the last mentioned application be followed -by controlling in planned relation the length of the cycle and of the yarn used in each stitch and by controlling the color that goes into each stitch.

The object of the present invention is to plan color pattern or designsv in iiatl fabrics knitted or crocheted of polychrome yarn, and to lay spot cycle on the yarn and the position of this or one spot with respect to the edge of the Y We have discovered that all designs have in common the characteristic that the lateral (i. e., phase) displacement of the colored spot cycle every second row is equal to twicethe difference between the width of the fabric and amultiple of one-half the colored spot cycle (given as a number of stitches). Another way of stating this is that all designs consist of some arrangement of two sets of intersecting diagonals, one

set. being a mirror image vof the other, one set occupying. the even courses or rows and the other lthe odd courses as shown in Fig. 3c.

These and other features of the invention and' specific embodiments thereof will now be explained in detail.

In the drawings portions of knitted or crocheted fabrics are illustrated by colored spots made up of as many stitches as is indicated by the squares. In some of the gures each square represents two adjacent halves of different stitches. In knitting, it is possible to make the simple knitting stitches so that each one-half stitch is separtely colored and each colored spot occupies one-half of each of two adjacent stitches. Each horizontal 4row of spots represents a course of the fabric. Y

Fig. l illustrates the dennitions o f the expressions which will be used;

Figs. 2, 2a, 2b. 2c and 2d type I patterns:

Figs. 3, 3a, 3b, 3c, 3d, 3e, 3f, 3g, 3h, 3i type II patterns: and l Figs. 4, 4a, 4b, 4c, 4d, 4e, 4f, 4g, 4h, 4i, 47', 4k, 4l. 4m, 41x., 4o. 4p type IlI patterns.

Referring now to Fig. 1: i i

R=the number of stitches that can be formed by a color cycle, measured from the center of a particular spot under consideration, to the centerof the next corresponding spot. For the same yarn R may be different depending on the co1- ored spot selected for observation. In other words, in the same yarn one might detect several color cycles of different phase or frequency.

In Fig. l, R=l1 for the white spots shown.

D=the difference between the width of the fabric in stitches and a multiple of R72.

D is positiye if the width of the fabric is more than, and negative if the width of the fabric is less than a multiple of R/2 and isk normally taken at the smallest possible positive or negative integral value. If Ris even, then D will be equal to or less than R/4. If R is odd, then D will normally be theV difference between the width of the fabric and a multiple of R., and will be equalto or less than :ER/2, (D in Fig. l, how-v ever. is shown not integral).

2D (in Fig. 1=5) will always be equal to the lateral displacement of any colored spot of the S refers to an arbitrarily selected point in the -I In this connection it should be color cycle. l borne in mind that any sequence of colored Y sidered as a spot.

spots, continuous or discontinuous, may be concolor cycle; even a single recurring S is a symbol having several discrete values in any one pattern. For instance; in Fig. 3a,-S measured to the center of the black spot is =1.

3, or 5, etc. In other words, since S is the po 'sition of the center ofv symmetry oi' vthe' color cycle relative to the left edge of the fabric inv a course which at the ,right doubles back to form the course above and at the left doubles vback to form the course below, and since there are often many such courses not alike, and many centers of symmetry of the color 'cycle-in each course, S has thereforeseveral discrete values. S still serves a useful purpose. example, S is definitely an odd integer, 1, 3, 5, etc., which distinguishes this pattern from Fig. 3b in which S is=1/2, 2%, 4%, etc. This difference makes Fig. 3a a double check, and Fig. 3b a diagonal.

'I'he lowest value oi S, as in Fig. 3a the value l, and in Fig. 3b the valueVz, are most convenient L The number of courses in a normal fabric pat-` tern repeat will always be 2R/N.- or 2.

Normally=assuming the pattern is planned as an integral number of equal stitches, each stitch solidly colored, R. D, and S being integral. Fabric patterns are made of an elementary unit which is repeated, the same sideup. 'Ihe In Fig. 3a for i 2,259,283 bc horizontally divided into mirror image halves,

the reversal being fromright to left.

We have divided into three types the patterns that can be planned in accordance with the present invention.

Type I Variations of this striped pattern are possible vby making S.=R/2, by varying the colors and lengths `of the spots. striped patterns repeat vertically in every course.

Any pattern that repeats every course or every two courses is a type I pattern. A few are shown in Figs. 2a-d. All type I patterns have the three symmetries, and D=0.

'It will vbe noticed in these and particularly in the designs to follow, that each stitch of the fabric (each square) is sumcientlylargeto constitute a noticeable portion of the design but in many cases the diagonal or vertical rows of spots disappear as visual elements of the pattern. 'Ihe relative positions of the spots in the odd and even courses will be such that entirely new and unexpected patterns will emerge.

elementary unit may contain parts which repeat within it, or parts which are similar. but inverted.-

Elementary or unit repeating areasare, therefore, the smallest areas into which a pattern canv be subdivided, all these areas being exactly alikein all respects (appearance, orientation, etc.).

One should never take these only-'one or two 'courses in height. Patterns which are composed of lcontinuous straight stripes have indefinite unit repeating areas. The unit repeating area for the pattern formed by one color or several colors in a fabric is the smallest area into which the fabric can be subdivided, all these areas eral colors is the smallest vertical length into -which the' pattern can be subdivided. each such length along a. vertical path being identical in respect to the pattern lof thatcolor or colors.

- 180? symmetry: The pattern may be turned 'at an angle of,1 80 without being altered.

Top-bottom mirror symmetry:'1he pattern In Fig. 2a R=s, n=qo, s for they black spot=l%; in Fig. 2b, R=2, D;0, S for the white spot=1%; Fig. 2c is a zig-zag pattern in which for the black spot-, -B/g. v

Type 11 'rms vis illustratedA in Figs. s-ae in 'each 'of I which the length of the pattern repeat, taken vertically is a multiple of four courses. Any pattern in winch they length of the repeat is a multiple of four courses is a'type II pattern. All oi' these except Fig. 3b consist of a regularly repeating ligure corresponding points of which may be joined in a diamond as indicated in Fig. 3d. vWhen in a 'type II pattern (or any pattern) S equals 0,.or R/2, or-D, or D+R/2, then it has top-bottom mirror symmetry and either both or neither of the other two symmetries. When in a type II pattern'S does not equal 0 nor R/2. nor D. nor (D+R/2) then the pattern has either no symmetry or only 180 symmetry. The unit repeating. area in type II patterns is Ril/N.

The normal formula for ftype 1I is: R/Nis even and D is not equal to 0. This makes the length of the pattern repeat come o ut a multiple of four courses.

Fig. 3 is a pattern having a repeating vfigure two spots symmetrically placed about the center mayfbe horizontally divided into mirror imagef .-halves, the reversal being i'rom top to bottom.

Right-left mirror symmetry: The pattern may' '75 from which R. is measured (e. g'., the center of either the black or white spot). R,=12; D=-1: S (for black)='l.

Fig. 3a .is a. double-check, i...e., a check in whicheach square occupies two courses. This is the onlypattern of vtype II that has right--leftv mirror symmetry. 3:4: D='R/4=1; S" for the black spot=1. Double checks can be produced witnfs=o or a/a or (D4-rm)v or D; The forhave all three symmetries.

area in type III patterns is 2R2/N.

Fig. 3c has 180 symmetry only, and is characterized by strong diagonal accentsk on the two diagonals. ,It may be called a broken diagonal. The centersof the repeating gure form perfect diamonds. R=8, D=1; S for the blue spot=11/2. Fig. 3d has 180 symmetry only and thecentersof the repeating gureform perfect diamonds although the general appearance of the pattern is different from Fig. 3c, and is much more like the unrelated Fig. 4k. In this pattern R=16; D=3; S for theblue spot=i/2.

Fig. 3e is a black with 180 symmetry and strong 4diagonal accents (like Fig. 3c). 'Ihe black and blue are similar in spacing but with different S producing a blue pattern which. is the image of the black but inverted from top to bottom. The resulting combined pattern has no symmetry but the centers .of the repeating figure form diamonds. R=16; D=1; S(black=!/2, S(blue)=51/2, S(white) =11 (in the same course).

Fig. 3f is unsymmetrical but has the diamond spacing. R=16; D=2; S for the black spot: l/2.

Fig. 3g is a black C pattern having top-bottom mirror symmetry only, combined with a blue similar to the black pattern .in yarn pattern spacing but having S diilerent by an amount=2D, which is therefore similar to the black patternbut displaced vertically. This can also be regarded asa black 4pattermeombined with a white C pattern of Vdifferent S, bothon a common blue ground. In common with all other gures, it can also be regarded as consisting of intersecting diagonals of three colors. The combined pattern has no symmetry but has the diamond spacing. R=8, D=l, S(black)=0, S(blue)=2, S(white) =5.

Fig. 3h is a black broken diagonal pattern having 180 symmetry only combined with a white which is its image inverted from top to bottom, both on a common yellow ground. 'I'he pattern may also be regarded as the black of 180 symmetry combined with a yellow C pattern (i. e., yellow spots forming the letter C) of top-bottom mirror symmetry only, on a common white ground. The combined pattern has no symmetry. but it has the diamond spacing. R=8; D=1; .S(yellow) =1; S(black)=61/2, S(white)=31/2 (all in the same course). Ina different course Siwhite) =1 V2, which is--R-S 1/2.

Fig, 3i is a C pattern. R=8, D=l, S==0.

Type III Any pattern in which the length of thel pattern repeat, taken vertically, is not a multiple of four courses nor is it every course or every two courses, is a type III pattern. When S=0, or R/2, or D, or (D+l/2R), then these patterns The unit repeating The normal formula for type nr is R/N is odd, D is not4 equal to 0. This includes all Rs not multiples of 4 if D is not equal to A0, and also` multiples of 44 if D is even, multiples of 8 if D is multiple of 4, etc.

Fig. 4 is a herringbone in two colors which'has all three symmetries. R=10; D=2; S for the black spot=0.

The normal formula for a herringbone is: R=4DiN, S=0, or R/Z, or D or (D-l-R/2). Another normal formula is R=N (2114-1), D=i-Nn/2 or iN(n+1)/ 2 and S=0, or R/Z, or D, or (D-i-R/2) (n has the same value in these three expressions).

When S does not=0, or l/2R, or D, or (D+R/2) then type III has right-left symmetry and may have symmetry, but have not top-bottom symmetry,

Fig. 4a is a vherringbone in threecolors hav ing all three symmetries, though it differs inappearance `from Fig. 4. The black forms two spots in each repeat, grouped symmetrically about the center from which-R is measured (e. g., the center of either the blue or white spot). R=9; D=2; S(b1ue)-=61/ -`D+R/2.1 The fabric shown in this figure is 151/2 stitches in width; 9+41/ +2. Another way of stating this would be that the width is a multiple of one-half of 9,-i-2. By adding 41/2 more stitches of width to the drawing at the right-hand side and continuing the same pattern, one will obtain the whole piece of fabric which can exist separately and of which Fig. 4a shows only the pattern and R, D and-S values.

I Fig. 4b is a similar herringbone giving a different optical eifect. It has all three symmetries. R=9; D=3; S(red)=0. The fabric shown in this figure is 161/2 stitches in width, i. e., 9+41/+3. Another way of stating this would be that the Width of the fabric is a multiple of onehalf of 9,+3. By adding 41/2 stitches of width tothe right-hand side of the drawing and continuing the same pattern we would obtain an illustration of the whole piece of fabric of which only the pattern andthe R,..,D and S values are shown in Fig. 4b.

Figs, 4c-f are patterns with all three symmetries, related to a herringbone (i. e., type III patterns with S=0) illustrating the widely different optical effects that can be attained.

Fig. 4g is a black pattern with all three symmetries on a red ground combined with a white pattern like it in yarn pattern spacing but with S different by an amount=2D, which is therefore similar but displaced vertically. The pattern can be described also as black and red combined on a white ground. The combined pattern has only right-left mirror. symmetry. R=7; Dal:` S(black)=31/, S(red)=1, S(white) =51/2.

In Fig. 4h S for the short blue spot is not to 0, R/2, D, or (D-i-R/Z), but to 2V2 with R=12 and D=2. The pattern has only right-left mirror symmetry.

In Figs. li-ll S is not to 0 or R/2, or D, or

' @+R/2) but the patterns have both 180 and right-left mirror symmetry. Fig. 4i should be The blue part of Fig. 411. is a herringbone pattern containing S=R./2. Re-:12; D=2;

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rightileft mirror symmetry, but the white has both 180 and right-left mirror symmetries. 'I'he combined pattern has only right-left mirror symmetry.

4o is a herringbone derivative. S=0. 4p is another herringbone derivative with vThe following is a partial lift of typical patterns obtained with various R. and D values. It includes all Rs up to 20, with all integral D values. Many other patterns are possible besides those mentioned from the same R and D values.

' lateral position. The black pattern has only To get S='1/2, etc., normally requires a spot with which 1, 3, 5, etc., stitches can be formed. To get S=l, 2, etc., normally requires a-spot with which 2, 4,16, etc., stitches 'can be formed. However, note Fig. 4m.

TYPE 1 Number of comurses in P* m 'e' R/4D me peat meas- Characteristic types of ttern (other tterns are RD nred verti- D m' possigtlae also) pa esame and III) 'R any value D-O or R/2.. 2 w Vertical stripes and zig-sags and checks. (See Figs 24d.)

TYPE II (In all these there are atleast two patterns for each with diil'e rent M or whole number S values) 4:1 or`4z3, 8:2, 163, mw, etc 4 1 Doubledchecssig. 3a) diagonale (Fig. 3b) and others accor 8:1, 8:5, 16:2, etc '8 2 Cs (Figs. 3g) broken diagonale (Figs. 3c and 3b) and others Flg. 3f), according to S. 12 3 Plaids eig. 8) derivatives oi the above, taking more i6 4 deilni l 'the apearance of intersecting d onal m 5 stripes plaids, ig. 3e) as R/4D increases. ther (24) patterns.

) Others (not plaide) (Fig. 3d).

whole number S TYPE III (In the narrow patterns given iirst in each line beallow,)the same pattern is obtained with all 36 or 3 1, e: e 3/2 s 1, 1o 5/4 1-2, 14 v/e 2' il iii 2e 13/12 and r 30 15/14 1 34 11/16 3s 1x1/1s 2, 1o 5/2 :3, 14 7/2 :4, 1s 9/2 11:5, 22 11/2 13:6, es 1s/2 15m 3o 15/2 11s, 34 17/2 1an, 3s 111/2 7:1. 14 7/4 9:1 1s 9/4 11:1 22 11/4 13:1. 26 13/4 15:1 30 15/4 17: 34 17/4 19' 3s 19/4 11:4, 22 11/6 13:5. 26 13/e 11:7, 34 11/e 19:8. 3s 19/e 11: 22 11/s 13; 2s 13/8 151 30 15/8 17: 34 17/s 19: 3s 19/8 13: 2a 13/10 17: .34 17/10 19: 3s 19/10 11: 34 17/12 19: as 19/12 17: 34 11/14 1a; 3s 19/14 1e: 38 19/10 The narrow patterns given rst in each line-herrin bones (Fig. 4). Other patterns give herringbones or weave patterns (4k, 4I) according to S. The slope o( the herringbones and baskets becomes more horizontal the patterns less interesting as value of D The herringbones and baskets are obtained with a color cycle consisting oi e single alternation of color.

With more complex cycles other patterns are obtained.

ket

Derivatives from the rstfherrlngbone or basket (Fig. 4i).

The ilrst one gives the most novel patterns. Plaids with all except the iirst one. Also other patterns.

Derivatives from the second herringbone or basket. The ilrst three give the most novel patterns. Plaids can be made with the last four. other patterns.

Derivatives from other herringbones and baskets. Patterns are complex. Plaids can be made from the third and fourth.

In general plaids can be made when R (10 or 1'2 D), Dbeing taken at its smallest value. The slope of plaids tends to become more horizontal as D increases. f

When R is rhythmically divided into approximately equal parts the pattern tends to become like that which would result from the smaller R with that same D value.

Starting with any pattern:

(a) If sign of S is reversed (i. e., a new Sis used which is equal to R 1ess the original S) and the direction of the yarn pattern is reversed, one gets the mirror image oi the original pattern inverted from top to bottom.

(b) If the sign of S is -reversed and then the 7s amount'in added to s. and the direction of the yarn pattern reversed, one gets the original pat tern turned 180. A

(c) If the amount iD is added to S, one gets the original pattern reversed from right to left and displaced vertically.

(d) If the sign of S is reversed and then the amount iD added to S, and the direction of the yarn pattern reversed,` and )D reversed (by changing the width of the fabric), one gets the original'pattern unchanged, except in its position in relation to the edges of the fabric.

Reversing the direction of the yarn pattern means keeping the spots by which S is measured unchanged,and reversing the rest of the pattern around these spots. If the yarn pattern is sym'- metrical reversing has lno effect. p

By means of d, the fabric width can be varied without changing the pattern. For continuous construction of fitted fabrics (i. e., where the fabric width must vary) this is useful and can and (2) controlling S by tightening or slackening the yarn and/or by choosing in which course and at which side of the fabric to add or drop the stitches.

By combining b and d, if the sign of D alone one color only in the pattern, or for the wholeV be done by: (1) using symmetrical yarn patterns,

is reversed, rone gets the original pattern turned By combining c and d, if the sign of S is rereversed, and the sign of D reversed, one gets the original pattern reversed from right to left.

By combining a and d, if S is increased by the amount iD, and the sign of D is also reversed (by changing width of fabric), one gets the original pattern inverted from top to bottom.

A tted garment can be made by using small R and D values and changing the width of the fabric from nR/Z-D, to nR/2-i-D, to (n+1) R/2D, or, if R is odd, changing from nR-D, to nR-i-D, to (n+1) RD, etc. 'This will give a series of patterns which will be the same if the yarn pattern is symmetrical and S is suitably controlled by adding the stitches in appropriate positions in the fabric, and/or by tightening or slackening the yarn. The series of patterns can also be made to be right-left of top-bottom mirror images of each. other, or to be alike but turned 180.

'Ihe above rules determine the pattern that will be formed by any one repeating spot. For purposes of any one repeating spot R can be considered as the distance between its repeats. The same rules also apply in determiningl the type of symmetry and-general character ofthe Apattern if R is chosen as the distance between centers of a repeating symmetrical group o f spots.

Any two patterns with the same R and D but different S can be superposed using a single` yarn. Any two with one R a multiple of the other can be superposed.

The rules determining the type of symmetry are based either on a single repeating spot, or on a repeating group of spots symmetrical about a center, R being measured from ther center.

' Therefore, starting with any pattern, the variaversed, and the direction of the yarny pattern'ao pattern.

Other possible variations (which usually alter the type of symmetry) are unsymmetrical about the center fromwwhich R is measured. These may be considered as new groups of spots having (usually) the isame R and D, but different S superposed on :the original spots. These variations tend to destroy all symmetry except rightleft mirror symmetry. 'I'he fabric pattern made -of two combmed'rfabric patterns has never any more types of symmetry than the symmetry that is common to the two, and may have less.

Where two patterns are combined which are similar in the spacing of the colored spots but in which S is different .by a multiple of 2D measured in any one course-the result will be a fabric having two similar but vertically displaced patterns. This is illustrated in Figs. 3g, 4g and 4m.

Where two patterns are combined which are similar in the spacing of colored spots but Ihave.

one S the same in any one course as the other but reversed in sign (iZnD, and/or inR/Z can be added at will to thetwo -Ss together. S is considered reversed whenrone S=R less the other S), the result will be a 'fabric pattern one part of which is inverted from top to bottom from the other. This is illustrated in Fig. 3e.

Obviously, it is impossible to illustrate more than a few examples of the knitted or crocheted fabric designs that can be produced according to the present invention.

, In the-claims, the fabrics formed will be described as looped and the method of forming the fabric as loopingto deine knitted and croch'eted fabrics and the method of knitting and crocheting as distinguished from woven fabrics and the method of weaving.

What is claimed is: 1. The method of planning the looping by hand of fabrics from polychrome yarn comprising, predetermining in relation to each other the width of the fabric, the length of the color cycle,-and

3. The method of planning the looping of fabricsvfrom polychrome yarn comprising, predetermining in relation to each other the length of a color cycle in the yarn, the width of the fabric, and the position of the color cycle with respect to the edge of the fabric, so that R, D and S require for their expression only whole numbers and halves, and D is not greaterthan i6 for double crocheting and :t3 for single crocheting or knitting, where R is the number ci stitches that can be formed from one color cycle, D is the smallest difference between the width of the fabric and a multiple of R/2, and S is the distance from the edge of the fabric to the center of symmetry of the color cycle.

4. The method of planning the looping of fabrics from polychrome yarn'comprising, predetermining in relation to each other the width of the fabric, the length of the color cycle, and the posiably small number, where R is the number .of

stitches that can be formed by-a color cycle, N is the greatest common divisor of R and 2D, and D is the difference between the width of the fabric and a multiple of R/2.

5. A flat fabric looped of a single polychrome yarn which has definite and predetermined R. D and S values, R 'being the number of stitches that can be formed by a color cycle. D the difference between the width of. the fabric and a multiple of R/2, and S the position ofthe color cycle relative to the edge of the fabric, and inv which ZR/N is a small number, N being the greatest common divisor of R and 2D.

6 The method of planning flat looped fabrics to be made from continuous polychrome yarn containing a repeating cycle of colored spots.

comprising planning in relation to each other the attacca rics with a single polychrome yarn and having readily noticeable diagonal stripes comprising,

predetermining in relation to each other thewidth of the fabric, the length and sequence of a repeat in the yarn, and the position of the yarn pattern withrespect vto the edge of the fabric so vthat R=4n, D=:n=:' R/4, S= in/2=1R/8,

where R is the number of stitches that can be formed by a certain detectable symmetrical color length ofra detectable cycle in the yarn, the

width of the fabric, and the phase'of the cycle' in relation to the edge of the fabric, whereby the colored spots occur in the fabric in diagonal or vertical rows, each row consisting of spots in the odd or in the even courses, planning the stitches sumciently large and so that the diagonal or vertical rows of spots will at least partly disappear as visual elements ofthe design. and by the relation of the position of individual spots in the odd courses to individual spots in the even courses'new and unexpected configurations are formed whose outlines are more compelling to the eye than the diagonal or vertical rows.

7. A fiat fabric looped of a single polychrome yarn containing a repeating cycle of colored spots, in which the colored spots occur in the fabric in vdiagonal or vertical rows, each row consisting of spots in the odd or in the even courses, D/R being sufliclently large so that the diagonal or vertical rows of spots at least partly disappear as visual elements of the design, and the individual spots in the odd courses form with the individual spots in the even courses new and unexpected configurations whose outlines are more compelling to the eye than the diagonal or vertical rows, where D is the smallest difference between the width of the fabric and a multiple of R/2. and

R is the number of stitches that can be formed from one color cycle.

8. Themethod of planning the looping of fabrics from a single polychrome yarn and containing simple geometrical patterns other than intersecting or vertical stripes, comprising predetermining in relation to each other the length of a color cycle in the yarn, the width of the fabric,

and the position of the color cycle with respect.

to the edge of the fabric, so that R is a multiple of D less than eleven D, where R is the number cycle, D is the difference between the width of to the edge or the fabric so that the width of the fabric is a multiple of R/2,'and S is not equal to 0 or R/2,.where R is the number of stitches that can be formed by a certain color cycle, and S is the distance fro'm the edge ofthe fabric to a center, if any, about which that color cycle is `symmetrical. V

12. 'I 'he method of planning the looping of fabrics from a single polychrome yarn and containing a color pattern of diagonal stripes at least partly broken longitudinally and inter-connectedtransversely, every fourth course. comprising predetermining in relation to each other the width of the fabric, the length and sequence of, a color cycle of the yarn, and the position of the cycle with respect to the edge of -the fabric so that R=r8D and S=:D/2, where R is the number of vstitches that can be formed by a detactable symmetrical color cycle, D is the difference between the width of the fabric and a multiple of R/2, and

S is the distance from the edge of the fabric to -v the center about which the chosen color cycle is symmetrical. ,x

13. The method of planning the looping of fabrics from a single polychrome yarn and containing color patterns having right-left mirror symmetry, of which the repeat length measured vertically is not a multiple of four courses, and the unit repeating area is equal to R times this length, in which corresponding, color pattern points in these unit areas form horizontal and vvertical rows comprising, predetermining in relation to each other the width of the fabric, the

length of a color cycle, and the position ofthe color cycle with respect to the edge of the fabric of stitches that can be formed by one color cycle.

and D is the difference between the width of the fabric and a multiple of R/2.

9. The method of planning the looping of fabrics containing noticeable double check patterns from a single polychrome yarncomprising. Predetermining in relation to each other the width of the fabric, the length and sequence of a color cycle, and the position of the color cycle with respect to the edge of the fabric so that R=4n, D=in= :R/4, and 81:0, or *D, where S is the position relative to the edge of the fabric of a centerabout which a detectable color cycle is symmetrical, R is the number of stitches that can belformed by the color cycle, and D is the difference between the width of the fabric and a multiple of R/2.. Y

so that R/N is odd and D is not equal to zero, where R is the number of stitches that can be formed bya certain color cycle, N is the greatest common divisor of R and 2D, and D is the difference between the width of the fabric and a multiple of R/Z.

14. The method of planning the looping of fabrics from a single polychrome yarn and containing color patterns without right-left mirror symmetry, of which the repeat length measured this length, in which correspondingcolor pattern points in-these unit areas form a diamond spacingfcomprising predetermining in relation to each other the width of the fabric, the length of a color cycle, and the position of the color cycle with re- 10. The method of planning the looping of fab`- spect to the edge of the fabric so that R/N is even, and D is not='0, and if D is :iR/4, S is not 0, R/2, D, or D+R/2, where R is the number of stitches that can be formed from a certain color cycle, D is the difference between the width of the fabric and a multiple of R/2, N is the greatest common divisor of R and 2D, and S is the position with respect to the edge of the fabric of a center if any exists about which the chosen color cycle is symmetrical,

15. The method of planning the looping` of fabrics from a single polychrome yarn and 4containing color patterns with 180? symmetry but without right-left mirror symmetry and top-bottom mirror symmetry of which the repeat length measured vertically is a multiple of four courses, the unit repeating area is usually R/2 times this length, and corresponding points in these areas form a diamond spacing, comprising predetermining in relation to each other the width ofthe fabric. the length and sequence of a color cycle, 20.

greatest common divisor of R and 2D, n and n' are any integers. and S is the position of the center of symmetry of that color cycle measured from the left edge of the fabric` in a course which at the right doubles 'back to form the course above, and at the left doubles back to form the course below.

16. 'I'he method of planning the looping of fabrics from a single polychrome yarn `and containing a herringbone color pattern comprising,

predetermining in relation toeach other the width of the fabric, the length of a color cycle, and the position of the color cycle with respect to the edge of the fabric so that R=i4DiN, S=0,

l or R/2, or D, or (D+R/2) where R isthe number of stitches that can be formed by a certain detectable symmetrical color cycle, D is the smallest difference between the width of the fabric and a multiple of R/2, N is the greatest common divisor vof R and 2D, and S is the position relative to the edge of the fabric of the center about which the color cycle is symmetrical, measured from the left edge of the fabric in a coursewhich at the right doubles back to form the course above, and.v

at the left doubles back to form the course below. 17. The method of planning the looping of a mirror image, inverted from top to bottom of a `given pattern of va fabricloopedjfrom polychrome yarn, comprising predetermining in relation to each other the width of the fabric, the

vlength and sequence of a color cycle, and -the bles back to form the course above and at the leitl doubles back to form the course below, and both ySs being measured to corresponding spots, R is the number of stitches that'can be formed by the color cycle, and D is the difference between the width of the fabric and a multiple of R/2.

19. The method of planning the reversing from right to left of an original pattern of a fabric looped fromepolychrome yarn comprising, predetermining in relation to each Vother the width of the'fabric, the length of a color cycle, and the position `o f the color cycle withrespect to the edge of the fabric so that D is added to S and D and the color cycle are the same as in the original where D is the difference between the width of the fabric and a multiple'of R/2.. R is the number of stitches that can be formed by acertain color cycle, and S is the position of any point in the color cycle measured from the left edge of the fabric in a course which at the right doubles back to form the course above and at the left doubles back to form the course below, both Ss being measured to corresponding points in the color cycle.

20. The method of planning the looping of two fabrics of different width from a single polychrome yarn, both fabrics having similar pattems, comprising predetermining in relation to each other the width of the fabric, thelength and' sequence of a color cycle, and the position of the color cycle with respect to the edge of the fabric so that S in one fabric is equal to R less S and in the other iD, the color cycles vin the two fabrics correspond when examined in opposite directions, and the value of D in one l.

fabric is equal but opposite in sign to that in the other, where R is the number of stitches that can be formed from the color cycles, D is the difference between the width of a fabric and a multiple of R/Z, and S is the position of any point of the color cycle measured from the left edge in a course which at the right doubles back f to form the course above and at the left doubles fabrics from a single polychrome lyarn and containing a herringbone color pattern comprising,

predetermining in relation to each other the width of the fabric, the length of a color cycle, and the position of this color cycle with respect to the edge of the fabric so that R=N (2114-1),

D=iN n/2, or i N(n+l) f2, and S=0, or R/Z, or D, or (D+R/2), where R is the number of stitches that can be formed by a certain detectable symmetrical color cycle, N is the greatest common divisor of R and 2D, S is the position of the center of symmetry of that color cycle measured from the left edge of the fabric in a course which at the right doubles back to form the course above and. at the left doubles'back to form the course below, n is any integer. and D is the 'smallest difference between the width of the fabric and a multiple of R/2.

back to form the course below and measured to corresponding spots in the two cycles.

21. The method of planning a fabric containing two superimposed similar but vertically clisplaced patterns looped from a single polychrome yarn comprising, predetermining in relation to each other the width of the fabric, and the length and phase of two color cycles, so that S measured to any point in one cycle of spots in l the yarn as it lies in any course will differ from S measured to the corresponding point in another similar cycle of spots in the same course by a multiple of 2D, where S is the position of any point of color cycle relative to the edge fabric frompolychromeyarn having a pattern part of which is similarto but inverted from top to bottom with respect to another part, comprising pretieterminingl in relation to each other the width of the fabric, thelength, sequence, and

phase of two color cycles. andthe position of the cycles with respect to the edge of the fabric so that two cycles are combined which are equal in length and similar in the spacing of colored.

spots; but reversed with respect to each other, and so different in phase that one S is equal to R less the other S in any one course, where S is the position as laidin the fabric of any point in a color .cycle relative to the edge of the fabric, both Ss being measured to corresponding points, and R is the number of stitches that can be formed by one cycle.

23. The method of planning the looping offabric from polychrome yarn having a pattern part of which is similar to but inverted from top t to bottom with respect to anotherv part, comprising predetermlning in relation to each other the width of the fabric, the length, sequence, and phase of two color cycles, and the position of the cycles with respect to the edge of the fabric so that two cycles are combined which are eqlll in length and similar in the spacing of colored spots, but reversed with respect to each other, and so related in phase that corresponding points in the two cycles coincide with the left edge of,

the -fabric ln the same course.

24. 'Ihe method of planning the looping of come I l' Y* fabrics from polychrome yarn comprising, p redeterminlng in relationto each otherthe length of a color cycle in the yarmthe Width of the fabric, and theposition of thel color cycle with respect to the edge of the fabric, so that R, D,

and S require for their expression only'whole numbers and halves, and D is not greater than -6 for double crocheting and .-3 for single crodetermining in relation to each other the `Width of the fabric, the length of the color cycle, and

xthe position of the color cycle with respect to the edge of the fabric remembering that the number of courses in a fabric pattern repeat will always be ZR/N, `so planning that ZR/N will be a reasonably small number. where R. is the number of stitches that can be formed by a color cycle, N is the greatest common divisor of R and 2D, D is the difference between the width of the fabric and a multiple of R/Z, and every stitch solid color.

ARTHUR Hf. AD, Ja. FLORENCE D. IEECH. HERMAN will be formed of a

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