US2290976A - Looped textile fabric - Google Patents

Description

July 28, 1942. F. D. LEECH ETAL LOOPED TEXTILE FABRIC 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Dec 18, 1940 INVENTORS 'IZomnceJLeea/o ATTORNEY July 28, 1942. F. D. LEECH ET AL 2,290,976

LOOPED TEXTILE FABRIC Fil ed Dec. 18, 1940 I 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 0 INVENTORS 4/ 4 fzorerzcefl.Leeciv ArZ/mjlfldaww J51 flw k ATTORNEY I July '28, 1 F. D. LEECH ETAL I 2,290,976

Loom) TEXTILE FABRIC Filed Dec. 18, 1940 i 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 INVENTORS Flomnoe J. Lee 07 flrmrjiifldama ATTORNEY y 1942- F. D. LEECH ET AL 2,290,976

- LOOPED TEXTILE FABRIC Filed Deg. 18, 1940 4Sheets-Sheet 4 INVENTORS IZOI MJ-LC/b Ari/011071715 ,Adama J5".

ATTORN EY Patented July 28, 1942 UNITED STATES PATENT; ora -cg 12 Claims.

This invention relates tonew and useful improvements in textile fabrics and more particularly to textile fabrics knitted or crocheted from polychrome yarn.

Heretofore, fabrics have been knitted or crocheted byhand or by machine from a single polychrome yarn to form definite planned patterns but in all known instances the fabric was made up of stitches using the same length of yarn. It was thought impossible to use stitches employing varying lengths of yarn andstill obtain a, predetermined recognizable pattern.

In accordance with the present invention, a fabric will have a regular, recognizable and clear pattern as determined by. the designer, although made up of mixed stitches which 'use' up vary-' color cycle of yarn, and every time the color cycle is crocheted into the fabric it will be formed into 'the same sequence of stitches If it were attempted to crochet with mixed stitches a fabric of polychrome yarn by relating the stitches to the edge of the fabric and not to; the yarn color cycle, then a spot of the color cycle would usually form in one partof the fabric stitches occupying a greater width than in another part of'the fabric. This would usually 'cause' an undesired irregularity of the color pattern of the fabric, which it is the object of the present invention to avoid.

The width occupied by a stitch is best measured in terms of a fundamental stitch which is used in' starting the fabric, or in terms of some standard stitch such as a single crochet stitch, hereinafter designated as SC, or a double crochet stitch, hereinafter referred to as DC. One may have different color patterns' in different parts of the width or length of a fabric.

A row that is used to increase or decrease the number of stitches might be assumed to correspond to' the width of" either the following or the preceding row. It will be considered to be of the width of the following row. This will be considered in more detail in the description'of the'a'ccompanying drawings, Figs. 1-11 of which illustrate diagrammatically eleven embodiments of the invention.

First, we'shall'give a few definitions. A pattern unit isa sequence of certain colors of yarn formed into 'ce'rtaihfstitches, the repetition of which forms a ea of fabric. Certain variations arealsb permiss'ihlethat do not affect the general symmetry orj impression. Some pattern units may run, to the edge of the area and so be incomplete. vllhenithe'ar'ea reaches to the edge of the fabric, a pater unit may 11cm two courses, doubling back at the edge, often with slight variations in stitches."

'R the number of unit stitches in which one mayexpress the widthof pattern unit of the fabricj'where the stitches making up a pattern unit are of the same width, R will be equal to the number of stitches' that are formed by a color cycle.

2D =the lateral displacement between corresponding' points of the pattern unit of the fabric in'alternate courses, 1. e.,' the phase displacement in alternate courses. It is considered positive when. it is in the direction of the displacement that would be caused by increasing the width of the fabric.' In cases where the pattern continues throughout the width of the fabric, D= the differe nc'e between the width of the fabric and a multiple of R/Z. f

'2S n4D=the lateral displacement between two successive courses of the center of symmetry (if any) of the pattern unit of the; fabric, or between arbitrary points in the pattern unit, if the later is unsymmetrical. 28 is taken at the smallest possible value between two courses where the course'above doubles back at the left to form the course below. 2Sis considered positive when the center of symmetry in the course above is to the right of that in the course below. In cases Where the pattern continues throughout the Width of the fabric, S=the position of the center of symmetry (if any) of the pattern unit, or position of an arbitrary point thereof, relative to'the left edge of the fabric.

'N'zthe greatest common divisor of R and 2D.

A' sequence of stitches of a fabric is illustrated in Fig. 1. This is crocheted from a polychrome yarn having a'color cycle of red. blue, red, and white spots. 'I designates DC stitches, 2 puff stitches, 3 a bean stitch, and 4 a shell stitch. Each? of the equal divisions on the under side of the bottom line'represents a width that would be occupied by a chain stitch, the width of the fabric fragment illustrated being equal to twentyfour chain stitches. Note that the two DCs and two chain stitches of the shell stitch are regarded as having a width equal to only three chain stitches, although other DCs are equal to one chain stitch each. This is customary in crocheting shell stitches. The sequence of stitches and their colors are as follows: one red DC, one twostitch blue shell, one red DC, eleven white DCs, one red DC, one blue bean stitch, one red DC, one white DC, one white four DC puff stitch, one white DC, one white four DC puff stitch, and one white DC. The shell is made as follows: a blue DC,-two blue chain stitches and a second blue DC attached in the same place, as the first one. The bean stitch is of the kind that is approximately equivalent to two DCs made in the space of one. Complex stitches such as shell stitches or pufi stitches, picots, filet openings, etc., can be considered either as single independent stitches or as groups of stitches made in a certain order and attached in certain ways to each other. There is no definite law that can be set down. The shells, puffs, and bean stitches in Figs. 1 and 2 are considered as single stitches.

The stitches shown in Fig. 1 use up two complete color cycles of the yarn and constitute one unit of the fabric pattern. The complete fabric or an area of the fabric will be made up of repetitions of this unit, the pattern unit.

Figure 2 shows a fabric made up of the pattern unit of Fig. 1. There is a slight variation in certain of the pattern units as at 5, B, and II, etc., which will be explained below.

The fabric shown is crocheted to and fro, starting from a row of chain stitches or piece of fabric already made. A flat crocheted fabric naturally starts with the bottom row, and later rows are added from bottom to top. The first stitch shown is a white chain stitch in the loop of a stitch of the previous row, and two more white chain stitches, the three chain stitches together being shown as (i. This is a variation from the pattern unit as described in connection with Fig. 1, where the corresponding stitch is a white DC, the one just before the first pufi stitch. The three chain stitches 6 occupy the same space and use the same length of yarn as a DC, and are shown in the same manner as a DC. The second stitch shown is I, a white DC-four pufi which corresponds to the first white puff stitch in Fig. 1. Then comes a White DC, 8, just as in Fig. l the white DC after the first puff stitch. Follow another puff and another white DC.

These stitches form an incomplete pattern unit, the last five stitches of a pattern unit. Now another pattern unit starts. The first stitch of the new pattern unit is 9, a red DC. The pattern unit continues just as in Fig. 1, till the white DC, I0, is completed. The last two stitches of the pattern unit still remain to be done. They would ordinarily be a white puff stitch followed by a white DC. The white puff stitch, however, is formed by making a white chain stitch in the loop of IE, followed by two more white chain stitches. This group is treated together as the first DC of a four-DC puff stitch H which is indicated in the same manner as a DC.

The second row continues from right to left with a white DC 52 which completes the pattern unit. Stitches 9 to I2 inclusive are one pattern unit, which doubles back and lies in two rows, and has a minor variation in the stitches used (at II). The row continues from right to left with stitch I3, a red DC. This starts a new pattern unit, which is perfectly regular, exactly like Fig. 1, and ends with I4, a white DC. In the shell stitch which has the width of three chain stitches (see Fig; 1) three stitches are made one in each of the two DCs, and one around, not in, the two chain stitches. A new pattern unit starts with I5, a red DC, with which the second row ends.

In Fig. 1 the first red DC of the pattern unit is followed by a blue two-DC shell stitch, but in Fig. 2 the pattern unit is slightly varied at 5. After the red DC I5 comes a blue chain stitch in the loop of I5, and two more blue chain stitches. This group (three chain stitches) is shown as 5. Then come two blue chain stitches, shown only as a gap between 5 and the adjacent DC which are like a continuation of the three chain stitches of 5 but are not included in the designation 5. When a DC is later made in the top of 5, it is made in the third chain stitch. Then comes a blue DC in the top of M. Stitch 5, the two blue chain stitches, and the blue DC together use up the same length of yarn and occupy the same space as a blue two-DC shell stitch. If 5 were a DC attached in the top of I4, the two would form a shell stitch. The reason for 5 being attached in the loop of I5 instead of the top of I4 is to keep the edge of the fabric straight. The row continues from left to right, with a red DC, eleven white DCs, etc. White DC It (attached around the two chain stitches of the shell stitch of the second row) completes the pattern unit. The next pattern unit starts with a red DC FL and then a blue DC I8, attached so as to skip one stitch (I3) of the preceding row, i. e., attached in the top of I2. So far this pattern unit is entirely regular according to Fig. 1. The DC I8 appears different in the drawings from the corresponding DC that is part of the shell stitch in Fig. l, but the only difference is in the position of the adjacent blue DC I9. Then come two blue chain stitches, indicated in both Figs. 1 and 2 as a gap between the adjacent DCs. There is a slightly variation in the second blue DC from a shell stitch, for instead of being attached in the top of I2, making with I8 a shell stitch the blue DC I9 is attached in the top of II. The purpose of this is to keep the edge of the fabric straight.

Unlike Fig. 1, where the shell stitch is followed by a red DC, it is here followed by stitch 20 consisting of three red chain stitches, which together occupy the same space and use the same length of yarn as a DC. The fourth row continues from right to left like the pattern unit in Fig. 1. The white DC 28 is attached around the two chain stitches of the third row. The pattern unit ends with a white DC, 2| and the next pattern unit starts with a red DC, 22. DC 29 is made around the two chain stitches to the right of 5 and DC 2'! in the top of the last, or third, chain stitch included as part of 5.

The fabric continues in this way, one pattern unit following consecutively after another, doubling back when the edge of the fabric is reached, alternate rows being crocheted in opposite directions, and the pattern unit being modified slightly from that shown in Fig. l as necessary at the edges to provide for doubling back from one row to another, e. g., in the stitches marked 23, which are like 6 and 20. This explains the structure of the fabric through the eighth row from the bottom. At the ninth row, starting with stitch 24, which is like stitch 6, the whole pattern starts to repeat, 25 being like 5, and 26 like I9.

The pattern unit of Fig. 1 is repeated practically unchanged to form the fabric in Fig. 2, although an incomplete pattern unit (only the last five stitches of the pattern unit) is used in the first or bottom row and several pattern units double back so that they lie. partly in each of two rows. There will be minor variations in stitch structure which do not change the width occupied by any colored spot,,- nor the general appearance and symmetryofthe pattern. In other words,

the pattern-is essentially what it would be if pattern units like Fig. 1 were used as building blocks pattern is obtained, although the fabric uses several different kinds of stitches, some of which (the shell stitches) are of different width than others, andsome of which (the bean andpuff stitches) use different lengths of yarnthan others. In this, pattern R=24,-2D=6, 28:3 for the center of the shell stitch; The pattern formed by the shell stitches is a broken diagonal pattern, i. e., a pattern of broken diagonal (from upper right to lower left) stripes, with, some singlespots at intervals between these stripes. spots as contrasted with the white form a figure like a V on its side, with a dot in the opening, this figure being repeated in a staggered or diaper spacing throughout the fabric.

Figure 3 shows a fabric made of apattern unit corresponding in width to twelve chain stitches. The pattern unit is as follows: A red puffstitch, five blue DCs, a red puff stitch, and five white DCs. The fabric shown is assumed to be added to a starting row or another fabric already made.

Starting at the lower right-hand corner ofv the drawing, the first stitch 30, is the last stitch of a pattern unit. Instead of being a DC as would be expected, it consists of a white chain stitch in the loop of the last stitch of the preceding row, and two more white chain stitches, all together occupying the same space and using the same length of yarn as a DC. In this and the follow-.

ing drawings, whenever a stitch that would be, according to, the pattern unit, a DC, comes. at. the beginning of a row, it will be formed ofv three chain stitches in the loop of the last stitch. After 30 come from right to left a red puff stitch, five blue DCs, a red puff, and five white DCs, all together forming a pattern unit.

A new pattern unit starts with 31, a red. puff stitch, followed by a blue DC, ending the row and three blue chain stitches starting the next row. Then, from left to right, three blue DCs, a red puff, five white DCs, completing a pattern unit. The next pattern unit starts with 32, a red puff stitchr Four blue DCs end the second row.

Three blue chain stitches start the third row and are followed by a red puff stitch and five white DCs completing the pattern unit.

Every pattern unit is perfectly regular, except of course the three chain stitches instead of a DC at the start of each row. This is aninstance where the width of all stitches is the same, but the length of yarn used in the puff stitches is dif ferent from that used in the DCs. The pattern is a diagonal with R.=12, 2D=6, and 28:3. 2S is measured from the center of symmetry of the pattern unit. For the purpose of finding the value of 28, one may either arbitrarily choose the center of the white or blue spot (both give 28:3)

as one must if one considers the pattern unit we.

have described, or choose a different pattern unit, a symmetrical one. This could be the pattern unit indicated by the double-headed arrow 36, consisting of one-half a white DC, then two more white DCs, a red pufi stitch, five blue DCs, an-

The red and blue other red puff stitch, and two and one-half more white DCs,. This hasa center of symmetry in the middle of the centralblue DC. Another pattern unit could be-chosen with the center of sym- Both give thevalue; 28:3.

Fig t shows a fabric having DC stitches and filet openings. The pattern unit, for example 31 (which should be traced from right, to left) consists of four white DCs, a blue DC, a blue filet opening bridged by two chain stitches, another blueDC, and four white DCs. Each DC is ofa widthequal to one chain stitch and the filet openingsare of; a width equal to two chain stitches. Except for havingthree chain stitches insteadof a'DC at thestart of each row, the pattern unit repeats exactly without variation.

The fabric shown is assumed to be added-to a starting rowor to a piece. of fabric already crocheted. The first stitch is a blue chain stitch in the loop of-the last stitch of the preceding row, and two moreblue chain stitches, all together formingthestitch33 Next to the left come two blue chain'stitches made as a continuation of the three chain stitches of 33, but not included in the designation 33. A stitch is made in the top of 33 will be made in the third chain stitch. The two chain stitches following 33 are not shown but they extend across the top of the open space 34 shown with a cross. After the two blue chain stitches'come, from right to left, a blue DC, 35, then four white DCs, All the stitches up to this point form the last part of a pattern unit. 33, the three chain stitches at the start of the row,

is a variation from the regular pattern unit, for

the first stitch of the pattern unit throughout most of the fabric is a DC. The first complete pattern unit is 31. The fabric continues with the pattern unit repeating without variation except that in starting each new row three chain stitches are used instead of a DC.

The pattern formed is a herringbone pattern of blue on a whiteground, with filet openings in the middle of the blue part of the pattern. R=12,- 2D=4. 2Sin4D=8 or 8. Taking S at the smallest possible value, 28:0, the pattern unit being symmetrical.

Fig. 5 shows a somewhat similar fabric, also having DCs and filet openings and having a pattern unit, but with more variations of the pattern unit.

A pattern unit is indicated by the bracketal (which should be followed from right to left), consists of eleven white DCs, a blue DC 39, a blue filet opening 4 two chain stitches in width, a blue DC 4! a blue filet opening, four blue DCs, a blue filet opening, and a blue DC. The group of four blue DCs, however, is interchanged with one of the single blue DCs in several of the pattern units, for example the pattern unit indicated by the double-headed arrow 62, as will be explained below.

The first stitch is a blue chain-stitch in the loop of the last stitch of the preceding row, and two more blue chain stitches, together shown as 43. This is the usual stitch used instead of a DC at the start of a row. Then from right to left come a blue DC 6.4, two blue chain stitches, then a blue DC 35 attached so as to skip a width of the. preceding row equal to two chain stitches. The gap left between 64 and 45 is a filet opening, and is shown as a white square with a diagonal cross in it. After 45 comes another filet opening and then another blue DC. The stitches described so far form the last few stitches of a pattern unit slightly modified from the regular pattern unit such as 38. The exact nature of this modification will be most easily understood by comparing with the similar pattern unit 50 that will be described later. Next comes a regular pattern unit 38, then another lying partly in the first row and partly in the second, and regular except for the usual stitch 46 instead of a DC for the first stitch of a row. Then another pattern unit in which the regular pattern unit 38 has been modified so that one DC 48 instead of four DCs is made after the second filet opening formed by the blue spot, and the equivalent of four DCs (i. e., first two DCs, then three chain stitches together, 49, then another DC) are made after the third filet opening formed by the blue spot. The purpose of this variation from the regular pattern unit such as 38 is to prevent a filet opening falling at the edge of the fabric.

Next comes a pattern unit 42, in which the four DCs come at the beginning of the blue spot, before the first filet opening, and a single DC is used after the second filet opening. This variation is purely esthetic, and unessential. The pattern unit could be made like 38 if desired.

Then comes a pattern unit 5| similar to the last one except, of course, the usual stitch 52 instead of a DC at the start of a row. The purpose of interchanging the positions of the four DCs and the singl DC is again to prevent a filet opening falling at the edge of the fabric.

The pattern unit 50 in the last two rows has the four DCs just after the first filet opening, but with the usual stitch instead of a DC at the start of the last row. The stitches of the last row are exactly like the first row.

The variations in the pattern unit do not change th width occupied by the blue spot of the yarn but only the relative positions of DCs and filet openings all formed from, and included within, one single blue spot. The white spots form a broken diagonal pattern, and the blue DCs in combination with the filet openings also made from the blue yarn, form a broken diagonal pattern, which is not altered by the changes in the relative position of the DCs and filet openings. The general impression and general symmetry of the fabric pattern is not changed. The purpose of these variations in the pattern unit is partly to prevent filet openings in rows one above the other, making for a heater looking fabric.

The value of R in this fabric is 25, 2D=6, 2S=3 for the center of either the blue or white spots. These R, D, and S values give a broken diagonal pattern for either the blue or the white spots. The pattern unit being unsymmetrical, the center of the blue or the white spot is an arbitrarily chosen point in the pattern unit for determining the S value.

Fig. 6 shows another fabric containing filet openings and DCs but in which the spatial arrangement of various stitches is simply related both to the edges of the fabric and to the color cycle of the yarn, since the fabric width is an exact multiple of the pattern unit. The pattern unit is illustrated at 54.

The first stitch is 53, the usual stitch used instead of a DC at the start of a row. All pattern units are regular, except the variation of the stitch at the start of the row. The pattern consists of vertical stripes, with vertical rows of filet openings. R=23, 2D:0, and 23:0.

Fig. 7 shows a fabric somewhat similar to Fig. 1. The pattern unit, one of which is indicated by the bracket 55, consists of two white DCs, a blue three-DC shell stitch, and two more white DCs. The shell stitch corresponds to a width of five chain stitches and is made of a blue DC, a blue chain stitch, another blue DC, a second blue chain stitch, and a third blue DC, all three DCs attached in the same place, the center of the five-chain stitch width of the whol shell. A two-chain stitch width of the preceding row is, therefore, skipped between the attachment of the shell and those of the white DCs at the two sides. Starting with the first stitch 55, which comprises three blue chain stitches instead of a DC stitch to start the row, the next two stitches are two white DCs bringing one to the bracket 55. These three stitches are the last part of a pattern unit, with the shell stitch modified. The modification will be most easily made clear by comparison with the fourth row, starting with stitch 51 and the seventh row, starting with stitch 58. These will be explained below.

After the first three stitches comes the pattern unit 55. Then another pattern unit, completing the first row. The first stitch of the second row, 59, contains three chain stitches instead of a DC. It starts a new pattern unit which ends with the DC 69 followed by another pattern unit ending with the DC 6 I.

The next two stitches are white DCs, the first two of a new pattern unit. lhen, instead of a blue three-DC shell stitch, there is the following variation: First, ending the second row, a blue DC. Then, starting the third row, three blue chain stitches designated together as stitch 62, then another chain stitch not included in 62, but shown as a gap between 52 and 63. In making the succeeding, fourth row, the third chain just mentioned will be used as the top of stitch 52, the fourth chain, just mentioned, will be used as the next stitch in Width, and the DC 63 will be used as the third stitch. After the odd (the fourth) chain stitch comes the DC 63. The three stitches 62, the chain stitch, and B3, in that order, occupy a width of three chain stitches. Then comes another chain stitch, shown as a gap one chain stitch in width between 63 and 64. The whole group, from and including the last (blue) DC of the second row, then the stitch 62, then the chain stitch, then 53 and finally the chain stitch (but not including the DC 64), together use up the blue spot and are a variation of the shell stitch that is in the regular pattern unit. Together this group of stitches occupies five chain stitches in width (one chain stitch in width in the second row, and four in th third row), as would be the regular shell stitch. The purpose of the variation is to preserve the straightness of the edge of the fabric. The DC 64 and the next DC 65 complete th pattern unit.

Then comes another pattern unit, ending with the DC 66.

The next pattern unit, starting with the white DC next after 66, has the shell stitch modified as follows: After the White DC 6'! comes a blue chain stitch between 61 and 68, then a blue DC 68, then another blue chain stitch between 68 and 69, then the blue DC 69, ending the row, then the three blue chain stitches 51, instead of a DC, starting the fourth row. The whole group, from and including the blue chain stitch between 67 and 68, and up to and including the three chain stitches 51, uses up the same length of yarn (the whole blue spot) and occupies the same width (five chain stitches) as the shell stitch that is in the regular pattern unit. The

tern unit.

variation is for the purpose Ofkeeping the edge of the fabric straight. The stitch-51 and the next two white DCs, completing the pattern unit, are the same as th stitch "56 andits following two white DCsin thefirst row. Soare the-stitch 58 and the following two White-DCs in the seventh row. R, the width in chain stitches of the pattern unit, is 9. 2D=l3 and'2S:0. This gives a-herringbone pattern.

Fig. 8 shows a fabric of SC stitches. All stitches are thesame width and use equal lengths of yarn, but there'is a difference between them in their places of attachment in the preceding row. Previous to thepresent invention, fabrics have been knitted or crocheted from polychrome yarn to produce regular planned patterns, but all'stitches have been of equal width and used equal lengths of yarn,and been attached consecutively in the consecutive stitches of the preceding row. In Figs. 1-7 the fabrics shown have stitches using unequal lengths of yarn and, except in Fig. 3, have stitches of unequal widths. Figs. 8 and-9 illustrate fabrics which may be considered as having allstitches of equal width and usingequal lengths of yarn, but varying in their places of attachment. They-also, like thefabrics 'inthe'preceding drawings, are made to give regular recognizable patterns by utilizing apattern unit.

The pattern unit in Fig. 8 (one ofwhich' is'in-. dicated by the double-headed arrow consists of a blue SC 85'and'four-white scsiconsecutively attached'in consecutive SCs of the preceding row. Then one-white SC 18' attachedso as to skip two SCs i6 and H of the preceding row,3; and attached in the'thirdifl. This is "followed by three more'white SCs in consecutive SCs of the preceding row, then one blue SCTI also attached consecutively (i. e.,'in"80),'and' three ' SCs 12,13, 14 attached inasingle SC of the pre-IL- 0 ceding row. Thispattern unit involves a decreasing widthoffabric" at'the 1ine'82,"and"an increasingwidth of fabric at the line '94. In other words, two stitches are'dropped at line 82,

and two stitches are inserted at line 94. In the? drawings 18 represents a 'stitchattached in'the topof 19, H represents a stitch in the top of 88,

and'B5 represents a stitch in the top of 81.

The first stitch 8!, consists of two white chain 10 Pattern unit BQ-difiers frompattern unit 10 .in

the following Way: Informing pattern unit I0, two stitches-Hi and l! of the preceding row, are dropped betweenthe-fith and 6th stitches of the pattern unit. -Inpattern .unit 89 onestitch is dropped between the 4th and 5thstitches, i. e., between 90- and-9|, and one stitch is 'dropped between the 6th and-7th stitches, i.- e., between 92 -and 93 one stitch, 90, of the fiI SbIOW is dropped. Pattern units 89 and") are of the same total 0 width, and the same width for =each-spot, and

drop the samenumber of stitches-but in slightly different places in the patter-n -unit. A further variation is in the use of two chain stitches instead of an SC, in the loop of 9linstead of in 95 the top of 9 I. This is the regular-way of doubling back in croch'eting-planned patterns with polychrome yarn using SCs. 4

*Af-ter-pattern unitBB comes -a pattern unit ex- -actly like -10, though of coursegoi-ng from-right 0 'to'leftinsteadof from left to right, with stitch i6 corresponding-to 'l8fistitch 81 corresponding to 12 and stitch 95 corresponding to 14; the last stitch of the-pattern unit.

After' stitch 95 cornes another pattern unit exactly "like 89, doubling -back at-the edge of the fabric,- "stitches'fii ands! corresponding --to 9| 7 and '92',"andthe'-patterrr unit ending ,(going from 'left'to right) 'just to the left of435. Then comes patternunit 'lfi; then-another like- 86,-and-so on.

Ino'rdento determine R, it is necessaryto determine the width occupied by each stitch. Along the line"82 and the twoedges of the fabric the "rowsaredecreasing in width going f-rom bottom to topfwhile inan'otherpart ofthewidth'of the rows, i. 'e.,' along the lines94, the rows'are'institches in the loop of the last stitch "of the pre-ir: "row, or ofthe'width of three 'SCsywhich is'the ceding row. Then comes 83, a white S0 attached so as to skip one SC width (presumably one stitch) of the preceding row, being attached in the second stitch from one in whoseloop 8| was made. 83 corresponds to 84 in the'pattern unit 78, and the following stitches included in the 'double-ended'arrow- 85 are the same as in the pattern unit it. 86 forms the last partof a pat- It is slightly irregular and will be referred to again. Next comes the patternunit 88, which is exactly like 70, then the pattern unit indicated by the double-headed arrow '86 are the same as in the pattern unit 18. 86 forms the "last part of a pattern unit. It is slightly irregular and will be referred to'again. Next comes 98) exactly like the'first fourstitches of'10 and The next stitch9i is a white SC attached in the preceding row so as to skip one stitch; being attached in the second stitch from the one in sidered to be ofthe width of four,-by comparison "withthe preceding row,- or-of thewidth of two '(or possibly 'none) by'ccmparison withthelater row. It seems unreasonable to-say thatthese two stitches have no widthyandwe will consider 5 them of the width of two, "by comparisonwith the succeeding-rather than the preceding-row.

Thetotal width of R then equals 13, whichis also the numberof SCs used in forming the pattern "unit.

2D has-no value, since thedateral displacement *of the colored spots Variesindifferent parts of i the width'of the row. -28 also-has no value." Alternatively the group of threeSLsattached which '99 is attached. The next stitchySZ, is one (such as -12', -13, Mr-canbe considered to gether as a single stitch, comparable to a shell stitch, and the fabrics, like Figs. 1-7, have a pattern unit containing stitches of unequal width, using unequal lengths of yarn.

It is the use of a pattern unit which makes it possible to design the fabric so as to have a regular pattern. In the usual chevron fabric, for example, the number of stitches in the slope T5-93 is made equal to the number in the slope 75- -71. In the present fabric there is one less stitch in 'I93. This in order that the pattern unit 8's and those like it be essentially like HI and those like it. It should occupy the same width for each spot as Hi, and it should as closely as possible duplicate It in sequence of stitches, and places of attachment. chevron fabric in the usual way, with the number of stitches in the two slopes equal, especially when the fabric is made wider (more points in the chevron) will illustrate the irregularity which results from designing a fabric with mixed stitches without using a pattern unit. It is one result that might naturally be obtained if no pattern unit were used.

Fig. 9 shows a fabric of DCs and of stitches comprising a slip stitch and three chain stitches which occupy the same width and use the same length of yarn as a DC. As in Fig. 8, there is a difference between the stitches in their places of attachment, for they are not attached consecutively in consecutive stitches of the preceding row.

The fabric is assumed to be crocheted from a starting row of chain stitches shown in the drawings, and made from the same polychrome yarn.

The pattern unit (one of which is formed by the stitches 99, I60, IEII) consists of a white slip stitch and three white chain stitches such as are shown together as the single stitch 99, then a white DC such as Hit, and then a blue DC such as IDI, all this group of stitches being attached in the same place (i. e., around a stitch such as 98). Moreover, the attachments of all such groups of three stitches in all pattern units are in similar places in the pattern units of the preceding row, that is, always around the first stitch of the pattern unit of the preceding row. The width occupied by a pattern unit will be seen by comparison with the drawing to correspond to three chain stitches in the starting row. The pattern unit can therefore be described as a white slip stitch and three white chain stitches, a white DC, and a blue DC, all attached in the same place and at a distance equal to three chain stitches from the place of attachment of the last pattern unit. When the attachment is made to a chain stitch of the starting chain, it is made in the top of the stitch. When it is made to another pattern unit it is made around the first stitch.

The fabric starts with a blue stitch at the lower left hand corner. Then come eight white chain stitches (using up the white spot), then four blue chain stitches (using up the blue spot). The first of the four blue ones is H3 and the last I69. The pattern then begins with the first pattern unit I06, I81, N18. The I06 which is slightly modified and consists of three white chain stitches. I0! is a White DC, I98 a blue DC and all are attached in the chain stitch I09 of the starting row. The second pattern unit is III), III, H2. H8 is a white slip stitch and three white chain stitches, III is a white DC, H2 is a blue DC and all are attached in the third chain stitch H3, counting from the end of the starting An attempt to make a' chain. The two chain stitches I09v and H3 are at a distance from each other equal to three chain stitches, i. e., there are two chain stitches between them. The pattern unit repeats regularly till thepattern unit H4, H5, H6, has been made in the first chain stitch of the starting chain and it may be considered as lying partly in the first row and partly in the second but it contains no variations from the regular pattern. The next pattern unit I I1, I I8, I I9 is attached around the stitch WI] which is the first stitch of a pattern unit in the first row. This place of attachment is irregular in its relation to the place of attachment of the preceding pattern unit H4, H5, H6. The next pattern unit after H1, H8, H9, is attached around I2I and is perfectly regular. The slight variation from the regular rule of the place of attachment of H1, H8, H9 in relation to the place of attachment of H4, H5, H6, is in order to make possible doubling back at the edge of the fabric. It does not change the general symmetry or general impression of the fabric from what it would be if the pattern units could be used as building blocks, and cut and place one above another. Alternatively, if the variation at the edges is considered to affect the general symmetry or impression of the pattern, the fabric may be considered to have a patterned area in the middle composed of a repetition of the pattern unit, and at the edges to have a different pattern,

The fabric of Fig. 9, with the same variation taking place at the beginning of each row, is an ordinary three-DC side shell fabric. Alternatively, each pattern unit can be considered as a single side shell stitch and the coloring of each stitch will be the same as that of every other stitch. Considered this way, therefore, the color pattern cannot be planned by stitches. It is only by considering the three stitches of each group separately as combining to form a pattern unit that the color effect can be planned.

In this fabric, R equals 3 (chain stitches), 2D equals 0, for the pattern units correspond exactly in lateral position in alternate rows, making the pattern a vertical or zig-zag, 2S is indeterminate, for there is no clearly recognizable correspondence by which to measure the lateral displacement of any one colored spot in relation to the row above or below.

Fig. 10 shows a fabric having in each of two areas a pattern made up of the repetition of a pattern unit containing shell stitches and DCs, and having in other areas than these two a different arrangement of stitches, e. g., a strip at each edge and one in the middle.

The pattern unit, one of which is indicated by the bracket I22, consists of a white three-DC shell stitch, a White DC, a blue three-DC shellstitch, and another white DC. The shell stitches are each made up simply of three DC stitches attached in the same place. The Width to be skipped between the attachment of each shell stitch and the attachments of the single DCs on each side of it is whatever width was skipped in making the first row. A suitable width would be two chain stitches of Width (assuming the fabric is crocheted from a starting chain). An area included between the dotted lines I23 and I24, and another between the dotted lines I25 and I26, is made up entirely of repetitions of this pattern unit and when the pattern units run to the edge of the patterned area of incomplete pattern units as indicated by the bracket I21.

The remaining areas, the tWo edges of the fabgame ric and the area between dotted line's'l 24" and I25, are at least partly not composedofpattern units.

The exact stitch structure of' the fabric is as follows: the first stitch I28 is three blue chain stitches made in the top of a stitch'of' the preceding row. Then come two blue DCs and one white DC, the last stitch of a pattern unit, in the tops'of consecutive stitches of the preceding row. The new pattern unit I22 starts with a white three-DC shell stitch, attached in the preceding row so as to skip two chain stitches of width of the preceding row. Then a white DC attached so as to skip two more chain stitches of width of the preceding row, followed by another similar shell stitch of blue, and finally another similar white DC completes the pattern unit I22. The next stitch is a similar white shell I29, part of which falls within the area I 23I24, beginning an incomplete pattern unit like I21 part of which falls outside the area I23I24. After I29 comes a white DC, attached so as to skip two chain stitches of width of the preceding row, then three blue DCs in consecutive one-chain stitch widths of the preceding row. Within the area II26, there will be a white DC which is an incomplete pattern unit like I27. A regular pattern unit I30 follows, and another incomplete pattern unit I3I, then, outside the area I25I26, from I26 to the edge of the fabric, three blue DCs in consecutive one-chain stitch widths of the preceding row, the

three blue DCs completing the first row of the fabric.

The second row starts with three white chain stitches I32 in the loop of the last DC of the preceding row followed by a white shell stitch attached so as to skip two DCs of the preceding row. This shell stitch falls partly within the area I25I26 which, together with the following stitches up to and including I33, forms an incomplete pattern unit like I21. The fabric continues in this way, with shell stitches and DCs as indicated in the drawings, except that the first stitch of each row consists of three chain stitches.

Because the two areas I 23-424, and I25I26 are made up of repetitions of the pattern unit or when the pattern units run to the edges of these areas, of incomplete pattern units, it has been possible to make a regular diagonal pattern within these areas. R equals 12 chain stitches in width, 2D equals 6, 2S equals 3 for the center of either the white or the blue spot. If desired, the pattern unit can be chosen as blue shell stitch, 1 white DC, 1 white shell stitch, another white DC, and another /2 blue shell stitch, and 2S equals 3 for the center of symmetry.

Fig. 11 shows a portion of a tubular knitted fabric having a pattern unit. The stitches shown as squares are knitting stitches. The stitches shown as squares with circles in them are special (as will be described below) stitches. All these stitches are of the same width, but the special stitches use a different length of yarn than the others. The fabric is knitted spirally from the bottom up and, therefore, the rows go in the same direction, from right to left, a blue knitting stitch I3 3 being the first stitch shown.

To make the special stitch, knit two stitches in next stitch of preceding row, knitting one stitch on front thread and one stitch on back thread of stitch without slipping the said stitch of the preceding row off the needle, thus making two loops on the righthand needle. Now slip the said loop of the preceding row off the needle on which it was which we will call the left-hand needle. Now pass the first-made of the two loops on the right-hand needle over'the last-madeof the two loops on the right-hand needle and slip this first loop off the needle, it now being held by the last-made loop. The whole structure of yarn now holding the loop of the preceding row, and held by the last loop now onthe right-hand needle, comprises the special stitch the last loop now on the right-hand needle being included as part of the special stitch. This special stitch occupies the same space in the fabric as a regular knitting stitch, but uses a greater length of yarn.

The pattern unit is indicated by the bracket I35 and consists of two white knitting stitches, a blue knitting stitch, a blue special stitch, and another blue knitting stitch. All the pattern unit throughout, and having a circumference equal to an exact multiple of pattern units, less the width of just one knitting stitch in the whole circumference, will give the pattern shown.

In the claims, the fabrics formed will be described as looped and the method of forming the fabric as looping to define knitted and crocheted fabrics and the method of knitting and crocheting as distinguished from woven fabrics and the method of weaving.

What is claimed is:

1. A fabric looped from a single polychrome yarn made up of mixed stitches using up varying lengths of yarn, and which has a predetermined recognizable color pattern.

2. A fabric looped from a single polychrome yarn made up of mixed stitches of varying widths, and which has a predetermined recognizable color pattern.

3. A fabric looped from a single polychrome I yarn made up of mixed stitches of varying widths and using up varying lengths of yarn, and which ha a predetermined recognizable color pattern.

4. A fabric according to claim 1, and in which each color cycle of the yarn is formed into the same sequence of stitches.

5. A fabric looped from a single polychrome yarn and having a predetermined recognizable color pattern and in which some but less than all the stitches in a row are interlinked with stitches of the succeeding row.

6. A fabric looped from a single polychrome yarn and having a predetermined recognizable color pattern, and in which a plurality of titches in one row are attached to a single stitch of the preceding row.

7. A fabric looped from polychrome yarn and made up of a plurality of substantially like pattern units containing mixed stitches.

8. A fabric looped from polychrome yarn, and made up of a plurality of substantially like pattern units containing stitches attached other than one in each consecutive stitch of the preceding rows.

9. A fabric looped from polychrome yarn, and made up of a plurality of substantially like pattern units containing a plurality of stitches attached in a single stitch of the preceding rows.

10. The method of looping a fabric from polychrome yarn with mixed stitches but having a predetermined recognizable color pattern, which comprises the following steps: predetermining the color of the yarn of which each stitch will be formed, and relating the sequence of stitches to the yarn color cycle.

11. The method of looping a fabric from polychrome yarn with mixed stitches but having a predetermined recognizable color pattern, which comprises the following steps: predetermining the color of the yarn of which each stitch will be formed, relating the sequence of stitches to the yarn color cycle, and predetermining in each row of stitches the position relative to the edge of the fabric of the center of symmetry of the sequence of colored stitches repeated throughout the Width of the fabric.

12. The method of looping a fabric from po1y chrome yarn with mixed stitches but having a predetermined recognizable color pattern, which comprises the following steps: predetermining 10 the color of the yarn of which each stitch will be formed, relating the sequence of stitches to the yarn color cycle, and predetermining in each row of stitches the position relative to the edge of the fabric of an arbitrary point in the sequence of colored stitches repeated throughout the width of the fabric.

FLORENCE D. LEECH.

ARTHUR H. ADAMS, JR.

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