Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
  • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
  • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
  • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
  • A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
  • A45D19/0041—Processes for treating the hair of the scalp
  • A45D19/005—Shampooing; Conditioning; Washing hair for hairdressing purposes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
  • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
  • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

• the present invention relates to methods for setting up, caring for and later removing a temporary rasta hairstyle, to compositions and ingredients used in the methods and to multi-part kits for performing the methods.
• a permanent rasta hairstyle is a hair fashion comprising tightly braided long braids usually comprising thin and extremely strongly interlocked hair strands. These types of hairstyles are also called dreadlocks. Both names are used synonymously in the following description.
• Ethnic hair e.g. African or Afro-American hair, so-called kinky hair
• kinky hair is ideal for setting up dreadlocks or rasta hairstyles because of its naturally curliness and its nature.
• rasta hairstyles can be set up with other, among others, smooth, hair, such as middle European or Asiatic hair, with suitable techniques. It is necessary however to produce a hair structure that tends to facilitate strongly interlocking the hair strands prior to forming the locks.
• the chemical treatment can occur with a hair reducing agent (e.g. thio compounds, such as thioglycolic acid), such as is used in a permanent wave treatment, but with the difference that the effective concentration and/or action is greatly increased. During this latter treatment the cuticle layer is probably at least partially or entirely removed to increase the required tendency of the hair strands to interlock.
• a hair reducing agent e.g. thio compounds, such as thioglycolic acid
• Another chemical treatment is an alkaline treatment with strong alkali compositions, e.g. corn soap or an alkaline shampoo without care additives.
• this method includes the following steps:
• the intertwining of the hair strands can occur e.g. either by gently back combing or by one or more of dividing, drawing apart and twisting the divided hair strands, or by a combination of twisting the strands around their long axis and gently back combing the twisted strands.
• the cleaning of the temporary rasta hair style can occur using a concave sponge, without destroying the hair style.
• a composition increasing the wet combability of the hair is applied to the hair.
• the rasta strands are opened and/or unwound, preferably mechanically using an ordinary comb or brush.
• the care action is partially what one would have expected from the action of the remover composition C that is described in detail hereinbelow. This means that it is based on a synergistic care action of the remover composition C in combination with the pre-treatment composition A and/or B described in more detail below.
• the subject matter of the invention is thus a method of setting up a rasta hairstyle, in which at least one roughening substance for roughening the hair surface is applied to the hair and subsequently a temporary rasta hairstyle is set up.
• temporary rasta hairstyle means a hairstyle with the appearance of a rasta look, which is again removable in contrast to a permanent rasta hairstyle.
• the hair is not essentially or substantially interlocked, but only intertwined, i.e. the hairs that are twisted together can be mechanically separated from each other again.
• the roughening substance that increases the roughness of the hair surface is a substance, which adheres to the hair surface and causes clean hair to feel rough or dull in contrast to hair that has not been treated. This substance can be applied to the hair by means of composition A, which is described in more detail hereinbelow.
• the stability of the temporary rasta hairstyle is clearly increased when an adhesion-increasing substance that increases the adherence of the hairs with each other is applied to hair and/or to the hair tips that has or have been pre-treated with the roughening substance increasing the surface roughness.
• the application of the adhesion-increasing substance increasing the adhesion of the hairs with each other can occur by means of the composition B that is described in more detail hereinbelow.
• the adhesion-increasing substance can be applied either prior to or after setting up the rasta hairstyle as necessary.
• the separated individual strand is uniformly gently back-combed (intertwined, not interlocked) with a back comb from the hair roots to the hair tips. During the back combing the individual strand is twisted over its long axis, whereby a special round and “true” appearing dreadlock is produced.
• the separated or divided individual strand is strongly twisted with the fingers over its long axis. After 2 to 3 twists the hair strand is arbitrarily divided at the tips. Both hair strands arising by the division are now spread from each other, whereby the two to three prior twists move toward the hair roots and intertwine (similar to back bombing). The twist, division and spreading of the hair strand is performed until the entire length of the individual strand is intertwined.
• the separated or divided individual strand is strongly twisted with the fingers over its long axis, until the entire strand is effectively “knurled”.
• the hair tips of the hair strand are held fixed and the spreading on the long axis is somewhat reduced.
• the already twisted strand is gently back combed with a suitable back comb, without interlocking the hairs.
• the back combing occurs over the entire axial length of the individual strand. After that the twisted and back combed strand is rolled between the thumb and index finger once more in order to augment the intertwining effect.
• the application of the roughening substance increasing the roughness of the hair surface can occur by means of a first composition A.
• Suitable substances are e.g. those substances, which are solid at room temperature (25° C.) and are present in the form of particles.
• Silica, silicates, aluminates, clays, micas, salts, especially inorganic metal salts, metal oxides, e.g. titanium dioxide, minerals and polymers are somewhat suitable.
• Polymers, which impart a rough dull feel to the hair are suitable. The suitability of a polymer is established by half-side tests of polymerically treated hair in contrast to untreated hair.
• Suitable roughening polymers are, for example, copolymers of alkylacrylamides, especially C 1 -C 8 -alkyl groups, and at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylic acids, methacrylic acids and their simple esters, especially the C 1 - C 4 -alkyl esters (INCI: acrylates/octylacrylamide copolymer, acrylates/t-butylacrylamide copolymer, e.g.
• Amphomer® HC and/or Ultradhold® 8 copolymers of vinyl methyl ether and alkyl hemiesters of maleic acid, especially C 1 -C 5 -alkyl hemiesters (INCI: butyl ester of PVM/MA copolymer, e.g. Gantrez® ES 425; copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid (INCI: VA/crotonates copolymer, e.g. Luviset® CA 66).
• the roughening substance can be present in the form of solid particles in the composition A and preferably the solid particles are dispersed in the composition to form a stabile dispersion. Alternatively they can be present in dissolved form in a suitable cosmetically acceptable solvent. They are then separated from the solution after applying the solution to the hair and evaporating the solvent.
• a stabile dispersion can be attained, when the composition A is provided with a flow limit, which is sufficiently large, in order to prevent the settling of the solid particles.
• a sufficient flow limit can be adjusted to a suitable value by using a suitable gel former.
• Silica sica gel, silicon dioxide
• metal salts especially inorganic metal salts, are especially preferred as the roughening substance applied to the hair. Silica is most preferred.
• the metal salts include, e.g., alkali or alkaline earth metal halides, such as sodium chloride and potassium chloride; alkali or alkaline earth sulfates, such as sodium sulfate or magnesium sulfate.
• composition A is preferably an aqueous solution of this salt and is preferably in combination with a spraying device, e.g. a mechanically operated spray pump.
• composition A is preferably a gel having a flow limit or yield point and contains at least one gel former that establishes the flow limit.
• composition A is a foamable composition containing at least one foam-forming surfactant and/or foam-forming polymer. The foaming can occur by an aerosol propellant or by means of a mechanically operated apparatus for making foam.
• composition A that are gel
• thickening polymers are included, which impart a plastic or pseudo-plastic behavior to the compositions.
• the rheological flow properties of the gel according to the invention are characterized by the existence of a flow limit.
• the flow limit preferably amounts to at least 3 Pascal, measured with a Haake Rotation Viscometer RV 12, measurement system PKV-0.5 at 30° C. and at a linearly increasing shear rate of 0 to 100 s ⁇ 1 .
• the gel After exceeding the flow limit the gel preferably has a viscosity of 1,000 to 100,000 mPa.s, especially from 5,000 to 50,000 mPa ⁇ s at 25° C., measured with a Haake Rotation Viscometer Type VT 501 at a shear rate of 12.9 per second.
• the flow point or flow limit is selected according to weight and surface area of the particles so that it is at least as large as the pressure exerted by the particles. The settling of the particles is thereby prevented.
• the thickeners are preferably contained in an amount of from 0.05 to 10, especially preferably from 0.1 to 4, percent by weight, in composition A. The optimum concentration is dependent on the type of thickener and the weight of the particles.
• Suitable thickeners are cross-linked or not cross-linked polyacrylic acids or polymethacrylic acids. These thickeners, which can be contained in the compositions according to the invention, include homopolymers of acrylic acid with a molecular weight of 2,000,00 to 6,000,000 g/mol, which are marketed e.g. by Goodrich, USA under the trademark Carbopol®. Additional thickeners are e.g. the acrylic acid polymers, acrylic acid/acrylamide copolymers or Sclerotium Gum, marketed under the trademark Modarez® V 600 PX of Protex, France or under the trademark Carbopol® ETD 2001 by Goodrich, USA.
• Copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid such as those marketed under the trademark Carbopol® 1342 or Pemulen® TR1 of Goodrich, USA, are suitable. Guar gum, xanthan gum, bentonite and hectorite are additional suitable thickeners.
• thickeners are included in the composition besides those that impart a sufficient flow limit or flow point in the viscosity range typical for gels in addition to those thickeners that impart a sufficient flow limit or flow point to the composition.
• These latter thickeners include especially cellulose and cellulose derivatives, such as carboxymethyl cellulose, cellulose ether and hydroxyalkyl cellulose compounds.
• the thickeners contain acid groups, which are at least partially neutralized with cosmetically compatible bases. Suitable organic or inorganic bases that are appropriate for cosmetic applications can be used as the neutralizing agents.
• the bases can include amino alcohols, such as aminomethylpropanol (AMP), triethanolamine or monoethanolamine and ammonia, NaOH and others.
• Composition A also can be in the form of an aerosol or non-aerosol sprayable or foamable product.
• the aerosol products include a pressure-tight aerosol container with a spray or foam head, which contains the foamable or sprayable composition.
• the pressure-tight aerosol container of the aerosol spray product according to the invention can be made from any material known for aerosol spray or foam products. Metals, such as aluminum or tin, are especially suitable materials.
• the aerosol propellants are employed in an amount of from 1 to 20, especially preferably from 2 to 10, percent by weight.
• lower alkanes such as n-butane, i-butane, propane, butane, or also their mixtures and dimethyl ether or fluorohydrocarbons, such as F 152a (1,1-difluoroethane) or F 134 (tetrafluoroethane) are suitable as the aerosol propellants.
• propellants present in compressed gaseous form such as N 2 , N 2 O and CO 2 , and their mixtures are suitable as the propellants.
• the composition comprises an aqueous or an aqueous-alcoholic medium with preferably at least 10 percent by weight water.
• the solvent system is preferably present in the composition in an amount of 50 to 98, especially preferably from 75 to 95, percent by weight.
• the alcohols included in the solvent system especially include lower alcohols having one to four carbon atoms that are suitable for cosmetic purposes, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
• Organic solvents or mixtures of solvents with a boiling point under 400° C. are suitable as co-solvents in amounts of from 0.1 to 15, especially from 1 to 10, percent by weight.
• Branched or unbranched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons, such as cyclopentanes and cyclohexane, are suitable as additional co-solvents.
• Glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol are additional especially suitable water-soluble solvents.
• compositions are present in combination with a mechanically operated apparatus for spraying or forming.
• the foamable products usually contain at least one foam-producing substance, e.g. a foam-forming surfactant and/or a foam-forming polymer.
• the surfactant can have nonionic, anionic or amphoteric character. Nonionic foam-forming surfactants are preferred.
• the surfactants can be used individually or in a mixture. The amount of the surfactants can be varied and is selected so that a sufficient amount of foam is formed for working into the hair, when the composition is delivered from the aerosol container or the product dispenser.
• the surfactant amount is preferably typically from 0.01 to 5, especially preferably from 0.1 to 2, percent by weight.
• Suitable nonionic surfactants are, for example, the C 8 - to C 18 -fatty alcohols, which can be ethoxylated with from 8 to 45 mol ethylene oxide, e.g. lauryl alcohol, tetradecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol, ethoxylated with up to 40 mol ethylene oxide per mol fatty acid, alone or in a mixture; hydrogenated castor oil ethoxylated with 8 to 45 mol ethylene oxide; C 8 - to C 18 -fatty acid alkanolamides; fatty alcohols of ethoxylated lanolin orethoxylated lanolin; polyglyceryl ethers of saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols and alkyl phenols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms in alkyl groups and with 1 to 10 glyceryl units per molecule; polyethylene/polypropylene block copolymers and ethoxylated sorbitan fatty
• Derivatives of natural surfactants are especially preferred as the nonionic surfactants.
• alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkoyl sarcosinates, akly isethionate or dialkylsulfosuccinates, which contain from 8 to 18 carbon atoms are suitable anionic surfactants.
• Betaines are especially suitable as amphoteric surfactants.
• the betaines include C 8 - to C 18 -alkyl betaines, such as cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylcarboxy-methylbetaine, lauryldimethyl-alpha-carboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethylcarboxy-methylbetaine, oleyldimethyl-gamma-carboxypropylbetaine and lauryl-bis-(2-hydroxypropyl)-alpha-carboxyethylbetaine; C 8 - to C 18 -sulfobetaines, such as cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetaine, lauryldimethylsulfoethylbetaine, lauryl-bis-(2-hydoxyethyl)sulfopropylbetaine; the carboxyl derivatives of imidazoles, the C 8 - to C 18 -alkyldimethyl, such
• Suitable substances are, e.g., waxes, waxy materials and/or adhesive polymers.
• Waxes and waxy materials are especially those substances with the properties according to the definition of waxes in Ullmanns' Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, 4 th Edition, Volume 24, page 3. According to this Encyclopedia the waxes are kneadable at 20° C., solid to brittle and hard, fine to gross crystalline, at least translucent to opaque, however not glassy, melting over 40° C.
• Adhesive polymers which are suitable, include those polymers, which impart an adhesive feel to the hair, as established by half-side tests of polymerically treated hair in comparison to untreated hair.
• Suitable hydrophobic waxes include animal, plant, mineral and synthetic waxes, microcrystalline waxes, solid paraffins, petrolatum, Vaseline®, ozokerite, montan wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, polyolefin waxes, for example polybutene, beeswax, wool wax and its derivatives, e.g. wool wax alcohols, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, hardened fats, fatty acid esters and fatty acid glycerides with a solidification point of over 40° C., polyethylene waxes and silicone waxes.
• the waxes have a solidification point of over 40° C., preferably over 55° C.
• the needle penetration number (0.1 mm, 100 g, 5 s, 25° C., according to DIN 51 579) is preferably in a range of from 2 to 70, especially from 3 to 40, especially preferably less than 20. Carnauba wax, ceresin wax and their mixtures are especially preferred.
• the waxes and waxy materials in composition B are preferably contained in an amount of from 4 to 50, especially preferably from 8 to 30, and particularly preferably from 10 to 25, percent by weight.
• composition B is an aqueous emulsion of a hydrophobic wax and contains at least one emulsifier and water in addition to the wax.
• emulsion includes wax dispersions in water, but also suspensions of solid wax particles in water.
• the emulsifiers are, preferably, contained in an amount of 0.5 to 50, especially from 3 to 40, and particularly from 20 to 35, percent by weight.
• the emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants.
• the following emulsifiers are especially suitable:
• C 12 - to C 22 -fatty acid monoesters or diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide to glycerol;
• the total amount of the emulsifiers present is larger than the total amount of the waxes. That means that the weight ratio of the emulsifier to wax is larger than 1:1, preferably up to 5:1, especially preferably from 1.5:1 to 3:1.
• These embodiments are characterized by a combination of individual active ingredients. Directly after the application to the hair the adhesion force of the hairs is very high, which very much simplifies the setting up of a rasta hairstyle. After drying the adherence is greatly reduced, which leads to an improved pleasant feel. A reduced, not unpleasant, residual adhesion remains and causes the finished rasta strands to adhere loosely to each other, which provides additional fresh hair styling possibilities.
• composition B is present ideally in liquid, i.e. liquid or viscous form. It is preferably dispensed in liquid form by means of a pumping device, sprayed as a spray by means of a spraying device or as foam with an apparatus for producing foam.
• a pumping device sprayed as a spray by means of a spraying device or as foam with an apparatus for producing foam.
• hydrophilic waxes can be used, especially high molecular weight polyethylene glycols (PEG).
• the polyethylene glycols are preferably waxy solids at room temperature (20 to 25° C.) or at least soft waxy-like compositions with a solidification temperature at about 30° C., preferably at about 40° C.
• the molecular weight amounts to preferably from 850 to about 5000 g/mol, especially preferably from 1200 to 3500 g/mol.
• Polyethylene glycols have the general formula H(OCH 2 CH 2 ) n OH.
• Commercial products usually have a molecular weight distribution. Suitable commercial products are, e.g., polyglycol 1000, polyglycol 1350, polyglycol 1500, polyglycol 3000 or polyglycol 4000 of Clariant. The numerical values designate approximately the average molecular weight.
• Careful cleaning comprises moistening the hair and then applying a hair cleaning composition, which contains at least wash-active surfactant, to the hair or a sponge. Then the composition is cautiously distributed on the hair, e.g. by dabbing with the sponge. Subsequently the cleaning composition is removed from the hair, which occurs by rinsing with water or by dabbing with the sponge after rinsing it many times in the meantime.
• the sponge preferably has a concave shape. The concave shape approximately corresponds to the shape of the head. The application, distribution and/or removal of the cleaning composition on the hair occur with the concave inner side of the sponge.
• Rasta-Removal The removal of the temporary rasta-hairstyle set up according to the invention can occur by moistening the hair, applying a remover composition C to the hair and distributing it on the hair. The rasta strands are then opened or unwound. Finally the composition C can be rinsed from the hair.
• the composition C contains at least one substance that enhances the wet or moist combability.
• This combability enhancing substance is preferably contained in the composition C in an amount of from 0.01 to 10, especially preferably from 0.05 to 5, percent by weight.
• cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, amine oxides, cationic silicone compounds, oil ingredients, fatty alcohol and glycerol fatty acid monoesters are suitable.
• Suitable cationic surfactants include those, which contain a quaternary ammonium group and at least one organic residue with at least six carbon atoms.
• Suitable carionic surfactants can be of the general formula:
• R 1 to R 4 each represent, independently of each other, an aliphatic group, an aromatic group, an alkyoxy group, a polyoxyalkylene group, an alkylamido group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an aryl group or alkylaryl group, each of the foregoing groups having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, wherein at least one of the groups has at least six carbon atoms and X- represents an anion.
• the anion can be a halogen anion, acetate, phosphate, nitrate or alkyl sulfate, preferably a chloride anion.
• the aliphatic group can contain cross-linking or other groups, such as amino groups, in addition to the carbon and hydrogen atoms.
• the groups can be linear, branched or cyclic.
• suitable cationic surfactants the chlorides or bromides of alkyldimethylbenzyl ammonium salts, of alkyltrimethyl ammonium salts, for example cetyltrimetyl ammonium chloride or bromide, tetradecyltrimetyl ammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethyl ammonium chloride or bromide, the dialkyldimethyl ammonium chloride or bromide, alkylpyridinium salts, especially lauryl or cetylpyridinium chloride, alkylamidoethyltrimethyl ammonium ether sulfate and compounds with cationic character, such as amine oxides, for example, alkylmethylamine oxide or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxide with at least six carbons in the alkyl groups. Cetyltrimethyl ammonium chloride is particularly preferred as the amine oxides,
• Cationic polymers in the sense or the present invention are those polymers, which contain at least one cationic or cationizable group that becomes a cationic group when protonated.
• Cationic groups for example, include quaternary amine groups.
• Cationizable groups for example, include primary, secondary or tertiary amine groups.
• the cationic polymers can be homopolymers or copolymers, in which the cationic or cationizable groups are either in the polymer chain or preferably present as substituents on one or more of the monomers.
• Suitable monomers of the cationic polymer, which have cationizable groups are unsaturated radically polymerizable compounds, which have at least one neutralized or not neutralized basic group.
• the basic groups can include especially primary, secondary or tertiary amine groups.
• the amine nitrogen can also be part of a ring.
• the monomers of this type include monoalkylaminoalkylacrylates or -methacrylates and dialkylaminoalkylacrylates or -methacrylates.
• the Alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups, such as C 1 - to C 7 -alkyl groups, especially preferably C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl groups.
• Suitable monomers which have quaternary amine groups, are unsaturated radically polymerizable compounds, which have at least one quaternary amine group. These monomers preferably include ammonium substituted vinyl monomers or quaternarized derivatives of carboxy vinyl monomers, such as quaternarized acrylamides or methacrylamides.
• the alkyl groups of these preferred monomers preferably include lower alkyl groups, such as C1- to C 7 -alkyl groups, especially preferably C 1 - to C 3 -alkyl groups.
• Acrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride and methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride are particularly preferred.
• the cationic polymer can be polymerized, as needed, with neutral comonomers, which contain neither cationic nor cationizable groups.
• neutral comonomers which contain neither cationic nor cationizable groups.
• the following comonomers are suitable: acrylamides, methacrylamides, alkylacrylamides, dialkylacrylamides, alkylmethacrylamides, dialkylmethacryl-amides, alkylacrylates, alkylmethacrylates, vinylcaprolactone, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ester, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol.
• the alkyl groups in these comonomers preferably contain C 1 - to C 7 -alkyl groups, especially preferably C1- to C 3 -alkyl groups.
• cationic polymers polyvinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymers, copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone and imidazolimine methochloride, the terpolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide, the terpolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and vinyl caprolactam, quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose (INCI name: polyquaternium-10 or polyquaternium-24), cationic guar derivatives, vinyl pyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride copolymers or diquaternary polydimethylsiloxane (INCI name:Quaternium-80), stearyldimethylammonium hydroxyethyl cellulose, methacryloy
• Chitosan or a chitosan derivative, which is neutralized with a cosmetically compatible acid is also suitable as a cationic polymer.
• the cosmetically compatible acid can be an inorganic or organic acid, e.g. formic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, acetic acid, hydrochloric acid, phophoric acid, among others.
• Suitable chitosan derivatives include, for example, quaternary alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivative compounds, for example, hydroxyethyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl chitosan or hydroxybutyl chitosan.
• the chitosan or chitosan derivative preferably has a molecular weight of 20,000 to 5,000,000 g/mol.
• a low molecular weight chitosan have a molecular weight of from 30,000 to 70,000 g/mol or a high molecular weight chitosan having a molecular weight of from 300,000 to 700,000 g/mol are suitable.
• the preferred deacetylation degree of the chitosan is between 10 to 99 percent.
• the neutralization degree for the chitosan or the chitosan derivative is preferably at least 50 percent, especially preferably from 70 to 100 percent, in relation to the number of free base groups.
• Suitable cationic polymers which are derived from natural polymers, include cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example cationic derivatives of cellulose, starches or guar. Additional chitosan and chitosan derivatives are also suitable.
• the suitable cationic derivatives of polysaccharides have the general formula:
• G is an anhydroglucose group, for example a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose
• B is a divalent group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene;
• R a , R b and R c are alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl with up to 18 carbon atoms, respectively, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in these groups is preferably a maximum of 20;
• X ⁇ is a customarily used or ordinary counter ion, for example a halide, an acetate, a phosphate, a nitrate or an alkylsulfate, preferably a chloride.
• a cationic cellulose is marketed under the trademark Polymer Jr® of Amerchol and has the INCI name Polyquaternium-10.
• An additional cationic cellulose has the INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is marketed under the tradename Polymer LM-200 of Amerchol.
• a suitable cationic guar derivative compound is marked under the trademark Jaguar R® and has the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.
• Those polymers are preferred, which have sufficient solubility in water, lower alcohol having one to four carbon atoms or their mixtures, so that they are present in the composition of the invention in completely dissolved form.
• the cationic charge density is preferably from 1 to 7 meq/g.
• Suitable cation active silicone compounds preferably have either at least one amino group or at least one ammonium group.
• Suitable silicone polymers with amino groups are known by the INCI name, amodimethicone.
• Amodi-methicones are polydimethyl siloxanes with aminoalkyl groups.
• the aminoalkyl groups can be side chains or terminal groups.
• Suitable aminosilicones are those of the general formula:
• R 8 , R 9 , R 14 and R 15 are equal or different and each represent C 1 - to C 10 -alkyl, phenyl, hydroxy, hydrogen, C 1 - to C 10 -alkoxy or acetoxy, preferably C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl, especially preferably methyl;
• R 11 , R 12 and R 13 are the same or different and independently of each other each represent hydrogen, a C 1 - to C 20 -substituted hydrocarbon group with at least one O and/or N atom substituent and an C 1 - to C 20 -unsubstituted hydrocarbon group, preferably a C 1 - to C 10 -alkyl or phenyl group, especially preferably a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl group, most preferably methyl;
• Q represents —A—N—R 17 R 18 , or —A—N + R 17 R 18 R 19 , wherein A stands for a divalent C 1 - to C 20 -alkylene compound group, which can contain an O—, N—or OH substituent group, and R 17 , R 18 and R 19 , independently of each other, are equal or different and represent hydrogen, a C 1 - to C 22 -substituted hydrocarbon group, preferably a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl or phenyl group.
• Q stand for —(CH 2 ) 3 —NH 2 , —(CH 2 ) 3 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 , —(CH 2 ) 3 OCH 2 —CHOHCH 2 NH 2 and —(CH 2 ) 3 N(CH 2 CH 2 OH) 2 , —(CH 2 ) 3 —NH 3 + and —(CH 2 ) 3 OCH 2 CHOH—CH 2 N+ (CH 3 ) 2 R 20 , wherein R 20 is a C 1 - to C 22 -alkyl group or a C 1 - to C 22 -hydroxyalkyl group. Also x represents a number between 1 and 10,000, preferably between 1 and 1000; and y represents a number between 1 and 500, preferably between 1 and 50.
• the molecular weight of the amino-silicones is between 500 and 100,000 g/mol.
• the amine content (meq/g) is preferably in a range of from 0.05 to 2.3, especially preferably from 0.1 to 0.5.
• Suitable silicone polymers with two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are known under the INCI name Quaternium-80.
• the silicone polymers are dimethylsiloxanes with two terminal aminoalkyl groups.
• the quaternary aminosilicones that are suitable have the following general formula:
• A is a divalent C 1 - to C 20 -alkylene group or modified alkylene group containing O and N atoms and OH groups and is preferably
• R 8 , R 9 , R 11 and R 12 have the same significance as in the above silicone formula and are preferably methyl groups;
• R 21 , R 22 and R 23 independently of each other, each represent a C 1 - to C 22 -alkyl residue, which can also contain hydroxy group substituents and wherein preferably at least one of the groups has at least 10 carbon atoms and the remaining groups have one to four carbon atoms; and
• n is a number from 0 to 200, preferably 10 to 100.
• diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes are marketed under the trademark ABIL® QUAT 3270, 3272 and 3274 of Goldschmidt, Germany.
• cation-active hair-care compounds are cationically modified protein derivative compounds or cationically modified protein hydrolyzates and for example are known under the INCI name lauryldimonium hydroxylpropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed caesin, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed silk, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed soy protein or hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed caesin, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed collagen, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed keratin, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed rice bran protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed silk
• Suitable cationic derivatized protein hydrolyzates are mixed substances that can be obtained, for example, by reaction of alkaline, acidic or enzymatically hydrolyzed proteins with glycidyltrialkyl ammonium salts or 3-halo-2-hydroxypropyltrialkyl ammonium salts.
• Proteins, which act as starting materials for the protein hydrolyzates can be of both vegetable or animal origin.
• Conventional stating materials are, for example, keratin, collagen, elastin, soy protein, rice protein, milk protein, wheat protein, silk protein or almond protein.
• a mixed material is produced by hydrolysis with a mixed molecular weight of from about 100 to about 50,000.
• the average molecular weight is in a range of from about 500 to about 1000.
• the cationic derivatized protein hydrolyzates contain one or two long C 8 - to C 22 -alkyl chains and two or one short C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl groups. Compounds with the long alkyl chains are preferred.
• Suitable fatty alcohols are alkyl alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, e.g. myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol or their mixtures.
• the alkyl groups can be linear or branched.
• Suitable glycerol monofatty acid esters are monoesters of glycerol and the above-described fatty alcohols.
• Suitable oils ingredients are, for example, plant or animal oils, mineral oils, silicone oils or their mixtures.
• Suitable silicone oils include polydimethyl-siloxanes, phenylated silicones, polyphenylmethyl siloxanes, phenyl-trimethicones, poly(C 1 - to C 20 -)alkylsiloxanes and alkylmethylsiloxanes.
• Additional hydrocarbon oils such as paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, squalane, oils from fatty acids and polyols, are suitable.
• sunflower oils, coconut oils, castor oil, lanolin oil, jojoba oil, corn oil and soy oil are suitable.
• Hydrocarbon oils, especially mineral oil (Paraffinum liquidum) are particularly preferred.
• O/W emulsion is a preferred example of the remover composition and contains:
• auxiliary and additive ingredients for example thickeners, multivalent alcohol, perfumes, dyestuffs, preservatives, acids and hair care ingredients.
• Composition C can also be in the form of an aerosol product, especially aerosol foam.
• aerosol product especially aerosol foam.
• the present invention also includes multi-component kits for performing the method according to the invention.
• the kit according to the invention contains at least one first component, in which there is a composition that increases the roughness of the hair, and at least one second component, in which there is a composition which increases the adherence of the hairs with each other.
• This adherence-increasing composition contains either an emulsion comprising at least one hydrophobic wax, at least one emulsifier and water or at least one adhesive polymer or at least one hydrophilic wax.
• the first component preferably contains a composition, which includes at least one substance, which is silica, a silicate, an aluminate, a clay, mica, a salt, a metal oxide, a mineral and/or a polymer. Especially either an aqueous salt solution, which can be sprayed on the hair with a spraying apparatus or a foam-forming preparation, is preferred. These preferred preparations include silica, at least one foam-forming emulsifier, water and either at least one aerosol propellant or they are present in combination with a mechanical device for forming.
• the second component preferably includes an emulsion of at least one hydrophobic wax, at least one emulsifier and water.
• the kit can also contain at least one additional component, which is
• At least one cleansing agent containing at least one wash-active surfactant
• At least one composition containing at least one combability-increasing substance preferably at least one cationic polymer, cationic surfactant, amine oxide, cationic silicone compound, oil ingredient, fatty alcohol or fatty alcohol ester, and/or
• At least one data recording medium on which the steps of the method according to the invention are stored or recorded, as a whole or in part, in graphic, visual and/or audio form.
• Composition A, B and/or C can also contain from 0.01 to 15 percent by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10 percent by weight, of at least one synthetic or natural non-ionic film-forming polymer, which preferably has a sufficient solubility in water or in a water-alcohol mixture, in order to be present in completely dissolved form.
• film-forming polymer means a polymer, which deposits a polymer film on the hair, when applied to the hair in a 0.01- to 5-percent aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution.
• Suitable synthetic, nonionic film-forming hair-fixing polymers are homo- or copolymers, which are built up from at least one of the following monomers: vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl caprolcactam, vinyl esters, such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylacrylamides, alkyl- and dialkylmethacrylamides, alkylacrylates, alkylmethacrylates, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol.
• the alkyl groups in these monomers preferably have from one to seven carbon atoms, especially preferably from one to three carbon atoms.
• Suitable nonionic film-forming hair fixing polymers are, for example, homopolymers of vinylcaprolactam, of vinyl pyrrolidone or of N-vinylformamide.
• Additional suitable synthetic film-forming, nonionic, hair-fixing polymers are, for example, copolymerizates of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohols and polyethyleneglycol/polypropyleneglycol copolymers.
• Polyvinyl pyrrolidones and copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and nonionic comonomers, especially polyvinyl pyrrolidoine/vinyl acetate copolymers, are particularly preferred.
• Suitable natural film-forming polymers are, e.g. cellulose derivatives, especially hydroxyalkyl cellulose compounds, such as hydroxypropyl cellulose.
• compositions of the invention can also include the following conventional cosmetic additive ingredients suitable for this type of hair treatment composition: e.g. perfume oils, in an amount of from 0.01 to 0.5 percent by weight; propellants, e.g. ethylene glycol distearate, in an amount of about 0.2 to 5.0 percent by weight; preservatives, e.g. parabene in an amount of from 0.01 to 1.0 percent by weight; buffer substances, such as sodium citrate or sodium phosphate, in an amount of from 0.1 to 1.0 percent by weight; care substances, e.g. plant and vegetable extracts, proteins and silk hydrolyzates, lanolin derivatives, in an amount of from 0.1 to 5 percent by weight; physiologically compatible silicone derivatives, e.g.
• volatile or non-volatile silicone oils or high molecular weight siloxane polymers in an amount of 0.05 to 20 percent by weight; light-protective agents; antioxidants, radical-trapping agents; anti-flaking 10 agents, in an amount of about 0.01 to 2 percent by weight, direct dye compounds, luster-imparting substances, vitamins, softeners and de-fatting agents.
• the hair is washed with a conventional shampoo, preferably a non-conditioning neutral shampoo.
• a conventional shampoo preferably a non-conditioning neutral shampoo.
• About 6 to 15 g (according to hair length) of the following composition A is uniformly distributed on the hair.
• Composition A 1 g Fluisil ® 300 (Silica) 0.8 g Rewoteric ® AM GAS (Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, 50 percent in water) 0.4 g Oramix ® NS 10 (Decyl glucoside, 55 percent in water) to 100 g water
• Composition B 17.8 g PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 11.9 g Carnauba wax 8.9 g PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil to 100 g water
• This composition is provided in a container with a pump spray apparatus.
• the hairstyle is sufficiently moistened with a shower or gentle water jet under the shower.
• a mild shampoo is applied to the concave inner side of a concave moistened wash sponge.
• By dabbing the hair-do (no circular motions) foam is produced from the shampoo. However it is rinsed away gently. After the washing the dreadlocks are again twisted or rotated using composition B.
• composition C After washing a cationic hair care composition of the following composition C is worked into the moist hair.
• composition C [0114]
• the dreadlocks are released or removed.
• the hair care composition then remains on the hair.
• the dreadlocks are cautiously combed out from the hair tips to the hair roots with a hand comb.
• the hair care composition is rinsed out of the hair. Subsequently a desired new hairstyle is set up.
• German Patent Application 102 34 804.9 of Jul. 31, 2002 is incorporated here by reference.
• This German Patent Application describes the invention described hereinabove and claimed in the claims appended hereinbelow and provides the basis for a claim of priority for the instant invention under 35 U.S.C. 119.

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• 2002
  • 2002-07-31 DE DE10234804A patent/DE10234804A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 2002-12-04 US US10/309,468 patent/US20040022751A1/en not_active Abandoned
• 2003
  • 2003-02-22 EP EP07116630A patent/EP1872679A2/de not_active Withdrawn
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  • 2003-05-15 JP JP2003136719A patent/JP2004067668A/ja active Pending
  • 2003-05-22 US US10/443,707 patent/US20040028632A1/en not_active Abandoned
• 2006
  • 2006-01-13 US US11/331,971 patent/US20060104938A1/en not_active Abandoned
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