US2002417A - Knitting machine - Google Patents

Description

May 21, 1935. H. w. SIMPSON 2,002,417

7 KNITTING MACHINE Filed Nov. 16, 1953 s Sheets-Sheet 1 ATTORNEY;

y 1935- H. w. SIMPSON 2,002,417

KNITTING MACHINE Filed Nov. 16. 1933 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 Fig 14 /NVNTOR May 21, 1935.

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l ll I Patented May 21, 1935 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE KNITTING MACHINE Application November-16, 1933, Serial No. 698,346 In Great Britain November 16, 1932 3 Claims.

This invention comprises improvements in knitting machines and in the production of fabric thereon and has reference tocircular knitting machines of the type having a stationary (non- 5 rotary) needle cylinder and relatively traversable needle cams and thread feed; the object of the invention being to provide, in a machine of this type, improved means for obtaining patterns or patterned effects in fabrics or articles produced,

3 thereon.

According to the present invention a circular knitting machine of the type referred to is provided with thread feeding means adapted to' feed a plurality of weft threads simultaneously to the 5 needles in plated relation to each other, said feeding means being traversed relatively to a stationary or non-rotatable needle cylinder and being operable to reverse at predetermined intervals the relative disposition of the threads fed so as to effect reverse or change-over plating.

The invention also includes an improved and simplified construction of reverse plating thread feeder, said feeder having a rotary motion and operating by such rotation to change the relative disposition of the threads fed thereby,

The machine in accordance with this invention is particularly suitable for knitting stockings and socks and in this connection means are incorporated whereby on a stationary cylinder machine 30 the foot portion of the stocking or sock can have a plain (uni-co1oured or unpatterned) plated sole and patterned foot upper.

The machine as above having reverse plating mechanism also advantageously embodies warp thread feeders or guides each functioning at predetermined times to plate an additional thread over the weft threads, and the provision of the reverse or change-over plating feed in combination with the said warp guides enables patterns or patterned effects to be produced in fabrics and articles such as have heretofore been impossible on machines of the stationary needle cylinder type.

A feature of the invention may, therefore, be

, said to reside in the production on a circular knitting machine having stationary needle cylinder of knitted fabrics or articles wherein a plurality of weft threads are simultaneously knitted in reversable plating relation and wherein other threads (warp threads) are introduced in addition to said weft threads and function as additional plating threads.

Meansv are also provided for moving the rotary reverse plating feeder into and out of the operative or feeding position at predetermined times 'ment and completion of the heel and toe.

and for moving another thread feeder into operation when said rotary feeder is to be displaced from the feeding position and vice versa. For example when knitting a stocking or sock the interchange of feeders takes place at the commence- 5 With the mechanism for interchanging thread feeders as above, means are also provided for automatically and positively feeding newly fed thread to the needles so as to ensure said thread being taken and knitted by the needles at the time of its introduction means for trapping and severing the thread displaced from the feeding position being also automatically operated after the change of feeders.

For the purpose of more fully describing th nature of this invention reference will now be made to the accompanying drawings, wherein:-

Figure 1 shows in part-sectional elevation a rotary weft thread feeder and operating means therefor as employed on a circular machine in accordance with this invention.

Figure 2 is an enlarged sectional detail showing more clearly the weft thread feeder head.

Figure 3 shows in elevation suitable thread- 5 guiding means.

Figure 4 is a plan of part of a circular knitting machine showing the weft thread feeders together with part of the mechanism operating said feeders and the thread pressing, trapping and cutting devices.

Figure 5 is a part-sectional plan view, reduced as compared with Figure 4, showing pattern control mechanism for reversing the plating threads fed at the rotary feeder and means for rendering said feeder inoperative and operative as required (e. g. for making a plain sole) and moving into and out of operation a separate thread feeder.

Figure 6 is a part-sectional side elevation of part of the pattern control mechanism shown in Figure 5.

Figure 7 is a continuation of the control mechanism shown in Figure 6.

Figure 8 shows in side elevation a modification of the pattern control mechanism.

Figure 9 is a plan, enlarged, of the right hand part of Figure 8.

Figure 10 is a part-sectional plan, enlarged, of the left hand portion of Figure 8.

Figure 11 is a detail elevational view of part of the mechanism for controlling the interchange of weft thread feeders and the operation of thread pressing, trapping and cutting.

Figure 12 is a front elevation of the thread trapper and cutter.

Figure 13 is an enlarged sectional detail of the trapper and cutter.

Figure 14 is an enlarged view of the additional weft thread feeder.-

Figure 15 illustrates a portion of patterned knitted fabric produced on a machine in accord ance with this invention.

Figure 16 illustrates a sock with patterned leg and foot upper, and uni-coloured sole such as can be produced by the present invention.

In a convenient embodiment of the present invention a circular knitting machine will be described adapted for the production of stockings and socks, said machine having a stationary needle cylinder in which the needles I are oper ated upon by knitting cams accommodated in a box or carrier 2 rotatable around said cylinder. Located above and exteriorly of the needles I adjacent to the position of the knitting cams is a thread feeder 3 which travels round with said knitting cams and functions to feed two threads 4, 5 to the needles in succession so as to produce a plated fabric. This feeder 3 also operates to change or reverse the relative disposition or lay of the threads 4, 5, upon the needles I at intervals so as to produce plated patterns.

The feeder for effecting the reverse plating advantageously comprises a horizontal pin or spindle 6 extending aproximately radially of the machine androtatably mounted within a sleevelike housing projecting 'up from a plate or part 8 which is in turn mounted to swivel in a horizontal plane upon a further plate In (Figures 1, 2 and 4) supported by brackets |a from the rotating cam box 2 or part associated therewith, the attachment of the last-named plate being preferably pivotal so as to enable said plate and parts carried thereby to be swivelled over on a horizontal pivot lflb. The end of the feeder 3 through which the plating threads 4, 5 are guided to the needles I comprises a disc-like head H with peripheral flange, (Figure 2) said head being mounted to pivot or oscillate upon a small horizontally disposed pin l2 which is at right angles to the feeder spindle 6 and carried by a flat circular end of said spindle, which end is accommodated in a tapered or conical central opening M in the head. The arrangement is such that the feeder head II when in the thread feeding position is inclined to the vertical, that is to say, the head tilts over with its upper part nearer to the needle cylinder than the lower part. Extending through the head is a pair of thread feed apertures I5 located one above and the other below the feeder head pivot, said two apertures converging towards the needles. To eifect the reversal of the threads fed to the needies and change the plating, the feeder spindle is rotated to reverse the positions of the thread feed apertures. The two threads 4, 5 extend to the feeder through a pair of fixed thread guides l6 carried by a bracket travelling with the feeder and located a suitable distance above same; spring tension arms l8 being also provided for the threads, (Figures 1 and 3). Advantageously the two fixed thread guides "5 are spaced a substantial distance apart so that the threads converge towards the feeder. Alternatively the threads may be guided between suitably s'paced pairs of spring-pressed tension discs carried by an upstanding bracket on a plate 66 fixed above the feeder 3. During rotation of the feeder 3 a small curved arm l9 pivoted to the feeder spindle housing coacts with the feeder 3; "head H on the inner side of .the flange thereon and ensures the proper tilt and angular disposition being given to and maintained in said head at each position of its reversal. This small arm for tipping the feeder head and giving the proper plating position thereto is retained in engageinent with the head by a coiled or other suitable spring' 20.

The rotary action of the feeder 3 is accomplished at the required times through the intermediary of intermeshing gears. These gears advantageously comprise a bevel 2| mounted at the outer end of the feeder spindle 5 meshing with a second bevel 22 fixed to and rotating with a tangentially mounted spindle on which is fixed a small gear wheel 23 continually meshing with a quadrant 24. This quadrant is mounted to pivot in a vertical plane, the pivot 25 being carried by a bracket 26 or other portion travelling round the machine with-the feeder, one or more stops being provided for definitely limiting the oscillatory motion of said quadrant 24. Depending from and carried by the quadrant is a finger 21 which, during travelling of the feeder mechanism round the machine, is adapted at predetermined intervals to coact with a cam slot 28 mounted upon a relatively fixed base. Advantageously a pair of these cam slots is provided arranged at diametrically opposed positions around the machine, and each cam slot may be comprised by a pair of cam plates 29 normally horizontally disposed, said plates being spaced apart to provide apassage therebetween for the quadrant finger and being curved in opposite directions at one end so as to provide a fiared opening for guiding the finger 2'| therebetween. Preferably these cam elements 29 are fixed to a squared head 30 at the inner end of a horizontally radially extending spindle 3| rotatably mounted in a block 32, the outer end of said spindle carrying a small operating lever 33 by which the spindle may be rotated so as to raise the cam elements into or lower same out of the path of the travelling quadrant finger 21.

To effect reversal of the plating feeder 3 the aforesaid cam elements 29 are moved radially of the machine either inwards or outwards, an inward movement of said cams causing the quadrant finger 21 to coact with the curved face of the outer cam element so as to swing said quadrant finger inwards and rotate the feeder 3 in one direction, while the engagement of said quadrant finger. 21 with the inner cam plate produces an opposite movement of the quadrant 24 and feeder 3.

Either or both of the aforesaid cam devices 29 located at diametrically opposite positions on the machine may be displaced to an inoperative position, i. e. a position wherein the depending quadrant finger 21 will not coact with same; this being effected by rotating the spindle 3| carrying said cams so as to displace the latter from a horizontal to a vertical plane as aforesaid. The spindle 3| with cams is retained in either the operative or inoperative position by a small springpressed plunger 34 or a plurality thereof coacting with one or more depressions in the spindle 3| or part associated therewith. Alternatively the spindle may be retained in the adjusted position by friction elements.

The radial adjustment of the cams 29 may be effected by slidably mounting the block 32 carrying the cam spindle 3| and fixing at the one side of said block a rack 35 which meshes with a pivoted toothed quadrant 36 carried by a suitable bracket 31. said quadrant 36 being rotatable in a horiaon't'altplane aritikalso meshing with an externally-toothed ring 88 encircling a stationary part of the machine. Preferably this toothed ring 'is formed in two approximately semi-circular halves, (Figure 5), one half coacting with the quadrant 38 associated with one of the cam ,devices 28 and the other coacting with the quadrant associated with the diametrically opposed cam device. To each part-circular toothed ring 38 is imparted a reciprocating motion at predetermined intervals, said motion being governed through suitable link and lever mechanism from pattern bits on a rotary pattern drum. For example each part-circular ring 38 may have an outstanding perforated lug 38 and with each lug engages an upstanding pin 48 at the one end of a horizontal rod 4|, the-opposite end of each of said rods 41 being connected to the lower part of an upstanding arm 42 and each of said two arms 42 is pivoted at its upper end to a relatively stationary arm or bracket 43, a spring 44 being associated with each arm 42 functioning to draw same into engagement with bits 45 on the pattern drum 48 (see Fig. 6) As the pattern drum rotates,

the outstanding bits 45'thereonpivotally displace the arms 42 engaging therewith and in so doing impart a short shogging movement to the partcircular toothed rings 38 and through same to the quadrants 38 governing the radial displacement of the feeding operating cam devices 28. At the lower end of one of the aforesaid upstanding arms 42 which normally coacts with the pattern drum is a small cam-faced element 41 which coacts with a correspondingly cam-faced element 48 carried at the one extremity of a rotatablymounted horizontal rod 48, the other end of said rod carrying a suitable handle 58 which upon being manipulated partly to rotate the rod effects through the said coacting cam elements 41, 48 displacement of one upstanding arm 42 away from the pattern drum 48 and maintains same at the height of the bits thereon so as not to be operated thereby. By this means the feeder-controlling cam device at the one side of the machine can be held stationary in a position wherein the depending quadrant finger 21 inits traversing movement will only be moved to its outward position or maintained in such position by the cam plates.

In a modified and preferred method of governing the motion of the half-rings 38 and consequently also the adjustment of the cams 28, horizontal rods 85, 88 are pivotally connected at their one end to said half rings and are guided for horizontal movement in fixed guideways 81, adjustment screws 88 in said guides coacting' with lugs 88 on the horizontal rods to determine the extent of movement of said rods in one direction, (Figures 8 and 9). The rods 85, 88 are cranked or curved upwardly over the pattern drum 48 and are pivotally connected by bifurcated lugs 88 and pins 8| to the upper ends of two downwardly curved arms 82 each having a lug or the like 83 normally engaging with the periphery of the pattern drum. The arms 82 are pivoted at their lower ends at 84 to one or more arms 85 on a bracket carrying the pattern drum. Coiled springs 88 connected at one end to the curved arms 82 or parts associated therewith and at the other end to pins on an upstanding fixed bracket 81 function to pull the lugs 83 on said arms 82 into engagement with the pattern drum. On a fixed pivot 88 is mounted a manually operable lever 88 having a cam I88 which coacts with an outstanding lug IN on one horizontal rod 88, and the arrangement is such that by swivelling the lever 88 up to a horizontal position the cam I88 presses the rod 88 towards the drum against the influence of its spring 88 and pushes one of .the arms 82 away from the pattern drum so that the lug 83 on said arm is not affected by the pattern bits 45 on said drum. In doing this the one half ring 38 connected to the said rod 88 is slid round to move one of the feeder-controlling cam devices 28 at one side of the machine into a position wherein the depending quadrant finger 21 in its traversing movement is only moved to its outward position or maintained in such position.

In the production of the leg or panel of a stocking or sock one of the aforesaid feeder-controlling cam devices 28 is moved out of operation, whilst during the production of the foot both of said cam devices are brought into the operative position and are so controlled from the pattern drum 48 as to produce the requisite pattern on tion, and at the time the thread feeders are interchanged for producing an unplated heel and toe both of the aforesaid plating feeder control cams 28 are preferably swung over to an inoperative position byrotating the spindles carrying said cams.

The plate member 8 carrying the rotary plating feeder 8 is mounted to swivel upon a vertically disposed pivot 52 (Figures 1 and 4), and on the same pivot a feeder arm 53 appertaining to the heel and toe thread feeder 5| is also mounted to swivel, cams 54, 55 being brought into operation on the two swivelling feeders so that at the time the one feeder is in the operative or feeding position the other feeder is out of operation; a suitable spring 58 being associated with the plate 8 carrying the feeder 8 and a similar spring 51 with feeder 5|, said springs tending to move the feeders into the inoperative position and maintain same in engagement with their respective cams 54, 55.

The changing of the feeders -3, 5i at the required times, e. g. at the commencement and termination of the heel and toe, is automatically effected from a rotatably mounted star wheel 58, fixed to a vertical spindle 58a rotatably mounted within and depending beneath the plate l8 which accommodates the feeder mechanism and which travels round the machine with the cam box 2. During its travel round the machine the teeth on this star wheel 58 are adapted at predetermined intervals to enact with upstanding pins 58 on a horizontally-disposed arcuate plate 88 (Figures 5 and 11) which is definitely fixed against movement circumferentially of the machine but which is capable of a short vertical movement so as to move the upstanding pins 58 cam members 54, 55, coacting respectively with a small upstanding arm or portion 64 fixed preferably adjustably to the plate v8 carrying the feeder 3 and'with an upstanding angle bracket or element 53a adjustably fixed to the arm 53 of the feeder 5|. The cam members 54, 55 are incomplete circular in shape and so disposed relatively to each other as to swivel the one feeder (e. g. the additional or heel and toe feeder 5|) into a feeding position prior to permitting the other feeder g. the plating feeder 3) to swing outwardly to an inoperative position. The cams 54, 55 are so arranged that while the circumferential face of one is acting upon its feeder carrier the corresponding circumferential face of the other is out of engagement with its feeder carrier.

The thread-feeding end 5| of the heel and toe feeder constitutes a depending portion (Figure l4) attached to the inner end of the swivelling, feeder arm 53, and so arranged that when the positions of the two feeders 3, 5| are changed the feeder" end of that feeder which is brought into operation occupies approximately the pos'ition vacated by that which is moved out of operation. In order to ensure the depending end of the heel and toe feeder 5| passing the disc like head of the plating feeder 3 during the change, the feeder arm 53 is furnished with an upstanding pin 5322 which, during the feeder swivelling motion, traverses the cam-shaped face of an opening in a relatively stationary plate 68 which also serves as a bearing plate for the aforesaid vertical spindles 52, 58a and 83. To permit of the requisite short deviation from the circular motion of the depending heel and toe feeder 5| during the traverse of the pin 53b along the cam face of the opening 65 said feeder is connected to the swivelling arm 53 thereof by a sliding block or the like 61 carrying said pin 53b which block with feeder is influenced by a spring and slides to and fro relatively to said arm 53.

Advantageously three equally spaced upstanding pins 59 are provided on the aforesaid plate 68 for engagement by the star wheel 58, the engagement of said wheel with the first pin functioning through the cams 54, 55 before-described to bring the inoperative feeder into a feeding position and simultaneously a pivoted thread pressing member 88 is swung under the influence of a spring 59 into a position for coacting with the newly fed thread and pressing same positively on to the needles so as to ensure said thread being taken and knitted by the needles. The movement of the thread presser 88, which comprises a curved arm as shown in Figure 4, is controlled by cam elements Ill fixed to rotate with the star wheel spindle 58a. Advantageously a pair of the cam elements 18 are mounted at diametrically opposite positions and coact with a nose .portion Ha at one end of a sliding rod 1| guided in a fixed bracket 12, the other end of said rod being pivoted to a lateral extension 68a of the curved presser arm 88. When a cam-l8 coacts with the rod H the presser arm is swung out against the influence of the spring 59. When, however, the first upstanding pin 59 coacts with and partially rotates the star-wheel 58 the cam 10 is moved out of engagement with the rod II and the spring 69 swings the presser 58 to bring a thread-engaging portion 68b into pressing engagement with the newly fed thread and pushes said thread on to the needles. The portion 58b is preferably recessed or grooved to accommodate the thread. A screw adjustment (3 on the presser arm 68 coacts with a fixed upstanding stop 14 adjustably to determine the extent to which the presser arm moves inwardly.

Shortly after moving a thread feed into feeding position the next succeeding tooth of the star wheel 58 coacts with the second of the three upstanding pins 59 and imparts a further partial rotation-to the star wheel and cams 54, 55. This further movement causes one of said cams 54, 55 to move out of engagement with its feeder, and such feeder (e. g. the feeder 3) consequently swings out under the influence of its spring (e. g. spring 55) to an inoperative or nonfeeding position. Simultaneous with this movement a trapper associated with a threadtrapping and cutting device is opened to receive the thread which is brought out of the feeding position, and the thread presser arm 68 moves out of contact with its cam element 10 so as to be swung out of operation by its spring 69. The opening of the trapper may be effected by bringing one of a pair of diametrically opposedcams 15 fixed to the star wheel spindle 58 into engagement with one arm of a pivoted bell crank lever 16, the opposite arm of said lever coacting with an upstanding pin 11 of a pivotally mounted part 18 of the trapping and cutting device so as to move said part against the influence of a spring 19 and enable the thread to pass beneath the movable blade 80. When the star wheel 58 coacts with the third of the upstanding pins 59 a further partial rotation is imparted thereto and the bell crank lever 16 governing the trapper and cutter moves off a projecting cam element 15 so as to permit the part 18 of the trapper and cutter to pivot over under the influence of its spring 19 and simultaneously trap and sever the thread which has been brought out of the feeding position.

As shown in Figures 12 and 13 the movable blade 88 enters between the one face of a fixed blade BI and an opposed comparatively thin strip member 82, the thread being cut by the engagement of the movable blade 80 with the fixed blade 8| and the severed end being trapped between said movable blade and said strip 82.

The arcuate plate 60 carrying the three pins 59 adapted to be engaged by the star wheel 58 is normally maintained in a position at which the star wheel passes over and clear of said pins. When, however, the feeders are to be changed (1. e. at the commencement and termination of the heel and toe) a pivotally mounted cam or eccentric 18 or equivalent member coacting with a recessed portion of said arcuate plate 60 is manually or otherwise operated to raise the plate and bring the pins 59 into the path of the star wheel teeth. If desired, the star wheel 58 may have six teeth located equidistant around same, three successive teeth acting to produce the motions before-described, and the remaining three successive teeth functioning to repeat said motions. In the drawings the operation of the eccentric 18 is shown as being effected by manipulation of a small handle 19 having a bearing in a fixed block 80 which also accommodates the recessed support 8| for the plate 60. Preferably the handle 19 and with it the plate 68 is automatically lowered each time the star wheel 58- has passed the three pins 59 by causing said handle to engage a pivoted depending finger 19a which is prevented from swinging up in one direction.

. Advantageously a machine as above-described is also provided with a circular series of warp thread feeders or guides 83 which are maintained stationary and are adapted to feed warp threads 84 to individual needles at selected or predetermined intervals, said warp threads when fed to the needles functioning as additional plating threads and appearing on the outer face of the fabric produced; any suitable or well known means being provided for moving said warp thread feeders into and out of the feeding position.

By the employment of warp threads which wrap individual needles, along with reverse plating feeder mechanism for the weft threads, it will be appreciated that numerous and varied patterns or patterned effects can be obtained in the fabric which have hitherto been impossible on stationary cylinder machines employing warp threads and non-plating weft threads. For example a fabric or article can be produced on a machine of the type referred to having horizontal stripes, bars or areas plated in different colours with weft threads and interspersed or interrupted at predetermined or selected intervals with other areas or stripes produced by plating the warp threads over said weft threads.

In the example of fabric illustrated in Figure 15, the plating relation of the simultaneously fed weft threads 4, 5 is in the knitted courses a the reverse of that in courses b. This is accomplished by reversal of the position of the feeder head 3, and produces horizontal stripes in the fabric. Selected stitch wales have a warp thread 84a incorporated therein at successive courses to produce vertical stripes, while other warp threads 84b of a different colour are knitted in at other stitch wales d at selected courses to produce interrupted areas at predetermined positions; it being understood that where warp threads are knitted in same are plated over the weft threads. Additionally, a stocking or sock having a patterned leg and correspondingly patterned foot upper of plated fabric can be produced having a fully plated sole presenting a plain or single colour.

A sock capable of being knitted on a machine as before-described is illustrated by way of example in Figure 16. Here the patterned fabric of the leg and foot upper is similar to that described with reference to Figure 15, and the sole is plated throughout with one only of the weft threads 4 or 5 so as to provide a plain,i. e. unpatterned sole. The heel and toe are, of course, knitted from thread supplied by the heel and toe feeder while the weft and warp threads are held out of operation.

I claim:

1. In a circular knitting machine of the type specified, reverse plating means comprising a feeder head formed with two diametrically opposed and symmetrical feed holes which converge towards the needles, through which holes the threads are fed to said needles, a spindle which is radial to the cylinder, a pivot pin extending at right angles to the spindle for pivoting the head to said spindle, means for rotating the spindle, at intervals of time, through 180 between attitudes in which the said pin is inclined to the plane containing the axes of the spindle and needle cylinder, whereby the feeder head is rotated about an axis transverse to the needle circle to reverse the plating relation of the threads fed by it, and means for maintaining the feediiighead tilted downwards and towards the needles during the stationary periods between the intermittent semirotary movements of the spindle.

2. In acircular knitting machine, needles, a reverse plating feeder comprising a feeding head having spaced guide holes for feeding two patterning weft threads to the needles in plating relation which feeder head is rotatable about an axis transverse to the needles to reverse the plating relation of the threads and is also movable about an axis external to and parallel with the cylinder axis into and out of feeding position, a substantially radial spindle on which said head is mounted for movement about an axis transverse to said spindle, means for imparting at predetermined intervals to and fro movements of partial rotation through 180 to the spindle to accurately reverse the plating relation of the heads and thereby to effect patterning by plating and reverse plating, means for maintaining the head inclined downwards and along the line of. the needles towards the knitting point in each position of said head, a plain-knitting feeder for feeding a non-patterning thread to the needles which feeder is also movable about said external axis, and means for moving said plating feeder and plain-knitting feeder about said external axis at predetermined times to substitute one for e other and thereby to change over from patte 1- ing by plating to plain knitting and vice versa.

3. In a seamless hose or half hose machine, reverse plating means comprising a feeder for feeding two weft threads to the needles in plating relation which feeder is rotatable about an axis which is transverse to the needle circle and is provided with substantially diametrically opposed guides through which the threads pass to the needles, means for rotating said feeder round the needle circle to feed its threads to the needles, in which combination the feeder comprises a head, a spindle which is radial to the cylinder, for rotating the head, a pivot pin extending at right angles to the spindle for pivoting the head to it, which head is formed with two diametrically opposed and symmetrical feed holes which converge towards the needles, means for rotating the spindle at intervals through 180 between attitudes in which the said pivot pin is inclined to the horizontal thereby to reverse the plating relation of the threads fed by the head, and means for maintaining the feeding head tilted downwards and towards the needles during the stationary periods of said head, in combination with means for feeding at least one warp thread to at least one needle and for thereby producing a wale pattern in which the warp thread is plated over the two

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