US1846472A - Tailor's gauge - Google Patents

Description

cuff.

Patented Feb. 23, 1932 PATENT OFFICE ISADORE COUTT, F ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI TAILOR S GAUGE Application led September My invention relates to the tailoring industry and consists in a novel gauge or measuring device for use in forming the cuffs of mens trousers.

In forming an ordinary cuff, it is customary for the tailor or bushelman to measure the length of the leg, then to measure the width of the cu below the end of the leg` measurement, then to draw a fold line across the leg, then to measure again the width of the cuff and draw another fold line, then to measure the width of the facing and draw La cut oli1 line, then to reverse the leg and duplicate the marking on the other side.

The object of my invention is to facilitate the successive operations just described and to eliminate the errors in measuring and in drawing of the folds and cut offs which are likely to occur unless exceptional care is ex- 1 ercised at all times by the workman. In the accompanying drawings which illustrate a selected embodiment of my invention- Figure l is a top view of a preferred form of my gauge or measuring` device.

Figure :2 is a section through the goods of one side of a trouser leg showing` the approved method of folding the same to form an ordinary or regular cud.

Figure 3 is a similar section illustrating the formation of a French cuil' which is used when there is insuflicient goods to form the regular cuff or when for other reasons it is desired to use a less amount of goods in the Figure 4 is a similar section illustrating the formation of a French cuff with false facing which is used when still less material is available for the cuff.

Each of the cuff structures referred to is in common use and does not constitute any part of my invention.

The gauge is formed of a longitudinal sheet, preferably of fiber, brass or similar durable material which may be used in a thin sheet. The left hand end of this sheet forms a` gauge for measuring off and cutting the three types of cuffs illustrated in Figures 2, 3 and 4 and the right hand end of the sheet forms a gauge for measuring and cutting the 7, 1929. Serial No. 390,987.

material at the lower vend of the trouser leg where a plain cud is to be formed.

The gauge on the left hand end of the sheet consists of a series of slots arranged at proper distance apart and wide enough to permit the passage therethrough of a piece of tailors chalk or soapstone for marking on the goods beneath the gauge. The sides of the slots and the sides of the sheet form substantially parallel edges and the sheet bears suitable marking to indicate which edges are to be used for the desired cuff structure.

For example, to mark olf the fold line and cutting` line for an ordinary two-inch cuff, the user will apply the upper edge l of the sheet to the point of leg measurement, arranging the gauge transversely of the trouser leg and by placing notches 2 on a seam of the trouser leg, the gauge will extend at right angles to the seam and to the trouser leg rather than at different angles as is likely to occur if the gauge is merely laid across the goods and its position judged hy the eye of the user.

The user then draws along the upper edge of slots 3 and 4 and along the bottom side 5 of the gauge sheet. The trouser leg is then reversed and similar markings made on the opposite side to correspond with the first series of markings. The gauge is then removed and the goods cut along the line 5 and the cuilI forming portion then folded along the lines 3 and 4 as indicated at 3 and 4 in Figure 2.

If it is desired to form a one-and-one-halfinch cuff, the three lines to be drawn are indicated on the gauge at 'the end of slots y6. The lowest slot marked 6 being the same as slot 4 for the two-inch cuff, but in the inchand-one-half cuff this slot indicates the cutting olf line whereas in the two-inch cuff it indicates the lower fold line. Similarly, for

an inchand-three-quarters cuff, the user will mark along the slot 7.

If it is desired to mark for a French cuff, the user will apply the slot 8 to the point of the length of leg measurement, draw a mark throughout the length of the slot, draw another mark along the upper edge l of the gauge, draw another mark along the slot 9 and draw a fourth mark along the lower edge 5 of the gauge. After reversing the trouser leg and duplicating this marking, the cuff forming portions of the goods may be folded along the lines 8 and 0 as indicated at 8 and 9 in Figure 3 to form a French cuff, the mark 1, forming a guide line for the upper fold S and the line 5 forming a cutting off guide line.

If there is insnicient goods to form the French cuff', lslot 10 may be used as the cutting off gauge line and the French cuff1 formed with a false facing as indicated in Figure il, additional facing element 11 being applied in the usual manner.

By spacing the slots from each other and from the edges of the gauge as indicated by the dimensions at the left hand end of Figure 1 the same edge may be used as a gauge line for diderent cuffs. For instance, the upper slot 7 which is one and three quarters inches from the top edge of the gauge forms the guide for the upper fold line of a one-andthree-quarter-inch regular cuff and also forms the leg measurement line of the French cuff and the top edge of the gauge forms the measurement line for all sizes of regular cuffs and also forms the top fold line for the French cuffs. Similarly slot 10 forms the marking edge of the cut off line for the inchand-one-half regular cuff' and for the French cuff with false facing, being located, however, at different distances from the leg measurement lines to these two cuffs. 'Ihis slot also forms the lower fold line for the two-inch regular cufl".

The slots as dimensioned in Figure 1 are adapted for use in constructing cuffs of the sizes and styles in general use today, but it will be a comparatively7 easy matter to change the relations of the slots to each other and to the edges of the gauge to adapt the gauge for cuffs of other sizes or arrangements of folds.

An additional feature of my gauge is the provision of suitable edges for marking ofil a` plain cuff trouser leg. This part of the gauge is shown at the right hand end of Figure 1 and I contemplate reversal of the gauge when this plain cuff portion is to be used.

Vhen applied, the notches 12 being alined with the seam, the curved slots 13, 14 and 15 and the curved edge 16 will be disposed at the angle which will bring the lower edge of the cuff at the right incline across the instep of the wearer. Applying slot 13 to the leg measurement, slots 14 and 15 and the gauge side 16 form marking edges for different widths of false facing as indicated.

I prefer to apply a scale 17 along one edge of the gauge to be used in marking the width ofcuffs or for other measuring purposes, but this is not an essential feature of my design.

I- contemplate the exclusive` use of such modifications of my invention as are in its commercial development and come within the scope of my claims.

I claim:

1. A tailoring gauge for use in forming cuffs on trouser legs comprising a sheet for application to the goods of the trouser leg and having an edge adapted to extend transversely of the trouser leg at the point of leg measurement, there being a slot substantially parallel with said edge and spaced therefrom through which slot the first fold of a cuff of a certain size may be marked, there being a second slot parallel with said first mentioned slot and in predetermined relation thereto through which the second fold of the cufl' may be marked and there being a third slot spaced from said first and second mentioned slots and in predetermined relation thereto through which the cut off line of the cuff may be marked.

2. A tailoring gauge for use in forming the cuiifs on trouser legs comprising a sheet with a plurality of substantially parallel edges formed by the sides of the sheet and by slots in the sheet between its sides, one of said edges being applicable to the trouser leg so as to extend transversely thereof at the point of leg measurement, there being a group of said edges along a selected one of which the line of the first fold of cufl's of desired widths may be marked, there being a second group of edges each in a predetermined relation to a corresponding edge of said first mentioned group and along a corresponding one of which the line of second fold of said cuff may be marked, and there being a third group of edges each in a predetermined relation to a corresponding edge of said first mentioned group and along a corresponding one of which the line of cutting the end of the trouser material may be marked.

In testimony whereof I hereunto affix my signature this 19th day of August, 1929.

ISADORE COUTT.

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