TWI791684B - Oil in water type cosmetic composition containing stabilized high-content calamine at inner phase and cosmetic product thereof - Google Patents
Oil in water type cosmetic composition containing stabilized high-content calamine at inner phase and cosmetic product thereof Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本發明涉及在內相中穩定化高含量的爐甘石(Calamine)的水包油型化妝料組合物，其混合使用脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑及糖類表面活性劑。此外，本發明涉及在製備內相中含有高含量爐甘石的水包油型化妝料組合物中，脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑及糖類表面活性劑的混合物作為內相穩定劑的用途。此外，本發明涉及在水包油型化妝料組合物的內相中穩定化高含量的爐甘石的方法。進一步地，本發明涉及將本發明的在內相中穩定化高含量爐甘石的水包油型化妝料組合物應用於皮膚上，從而極大化爐甘石的功能性活性的方法。 The present invention relates to an oil-in-water cosmetic composition in which a high content of calamine (Calamine) is stabilized in an internal phase, and a sorbitan-based surfactant and a sugar-based surfactant are used in combination. Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use of a mixture of a sorbitan surfactant and a sugar surfactant as an internal phase stabilizer in the preparation of an oil-in-water cosmetic composition containing a high content of calamine in the internal phase. Furthermore, the present invention relates to a method of stabilizing a high content of calamine in the internal phase of an oil-in-water cosmetic composition. Further, the present invention relates to a method for maximizing the functional activity of calamine by applying the oil-in-water cosmetic composition of the present invention, which stabilizes a high content of calamine in the internal phase, to the skin.
Description
相關申請的交叉引用 Cross References to Related Applications
本申請要求韓國專利申請第10-2017-0156407號(申請日：2017年11月22日)的優先權，所述韓國申請說明書整體包含在本申請以作參考。 This application claims the priority of Korean Patent Application No. 10-2017-0156407 (filing date: November 22, 2017), the specification of which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.
本發明涉及在內相中穩定化高含量的爐甘石(Calamine)的水包油型化妝料組合物，其混合使用脫水山梨糖醇類(Sorbitan)表面活性劑及糖類表面活性劑。此外，本發明涉及在製備內相中含有高含量爐甘石的水包油型化妝料組合物中，脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑及糖類表面活性劑的混合物作為內相穩定劑的用途。此外，本發明涉及在水包油型化妝料組合物的內相中穩定化高含量的爐甘石的方法。進一步地，本發明涉及將本發明的在內相中穩定化高含量爐甘石的水包油型化妝料組合物應用於皮膚上，從而極大化爐甘石的功能性活性的方法。 The present invention relates to an oil-in-water cosmetic composition in which a high content of calamine is stabilized in an internal phase, and a sorbitan surfactant and a sugar surfactant are used in combination. Furthermore, the present invention relates to the use of a mixture of a sorbitan surfactant and a sugar surfactant as an internal phase stabilizer in the preparation of an oil-in-water cosmetic composition containing a high content of calamine in the internal phase. Furthermore, the present invention relates to a method of stabilizing a high content of calamine in the internal phase of an oil-in-water cosmetic composition. Further, the present invention relates to a method for maximizing the functional activity of calamine by applying the oil-in-water cosmetic composition of the present invention, which stabilizes a high content of calamine in the internal phase, to the skin.
爐甘石(Calamine)是混合氧化鋅和0.5~1%的氧化鐵(III)而得到的淡紅色精細粉末，包含在爐甘石中的氧化鋅起到消炎及保護的作用。因此，爐 甘石包含在軟膏、隔離劑(dusting agent)等皮膚外用劑中，用作治療皮膚疾病的保護劑、收斂劑、防腐劑等。此外，在化妝品領域中，爐甘石包含在乳液基質中，從而以改善痤瘡性皮膚和鎮靜皮膚等目的使用。 Calamine is a light red fine powder obtained by mixing zinc oxide and 0.5~1% iron (III) oxide. The zinc oxide contained in calamine has anti-inflammatory and protective effects. Therefore, the furnace Ganshi is contained in skin external preparations such as ointments and dusting agents, and is used as a protective agent, astringent, antiseptic, etc. for treating skin diseases. Also, in the field of cosmetics, calamine is contained in emulsion bases and thus used for the purposes of improving acne-prone skin and calming the skin, among others.
然而，現有的爐甘石化妝品大部分是油包水型，塗抹性乾澀，且吸收力偏低。此外，雖然偶爾有水包油型的爐甘石化妝料的嘗試，但大部分是將爐甘石強制分散於外相中來製備，而並非分散於內相中，這種情況下，雖然塗抹性會提升，但具有吸收力降低的局限性。韓國授權專利第10-1590803號公開了含有爐甘石的即刻美白或用於改善膚色的化妝料組合物。但是，該專利中也採用油包水型作為能夠獲得效果的劑型，而並沒有採用水包油型。 However, most of the existing calamine cosmetics are water-in-oil type, which are dry to apply and have low absorption. In addition, although there are occasional attempts to make calamine cosmetics of the oil-in-water type, most of them are prepared by forcibly dispersing calamine in the external phase instead of dispersing in the internal phase. Lifts, but has the limitation of reduced absorbency. Korean Patent No. 10-1590803 discloses a cosmetic composition for instant whitening or skin tone improvement containing calamine. However, this patent also adopts the water-in-oil type as a dosage form that can obtain the effect, but does not adopt the oil-in-water type.
在水包油型劑型中穩定化爐甘石，並提高長期穩定性的主要關鍵在於，克服聚合物與爐甘石凝結而析出為粒子或聚合物的凝膠化(gelling)的現象。本發明中在製備水包油型爐甘石化妝料組合物時，為了防止爐甘石與聚合物的直接接觸，試圖在內相中穩定化爐甘石，並與存在聚合物的外相分離。作為這種方法，研究出與爐甘石一同使用脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑及糖類表面活性劑的方法，並藉由該方法在水包油型化妝料的內相中穩定化高含量的爐甘石，從而能夠確保長期穩定性，並且還能夠改善化妝料的使用感。 The main key to stabilizing calamine in oil-in-water dosage forms and improving long-term stability is to overcome the phenomenon that the polymer and calamine coagulate and precipitate into particles or gelling of the polymer. In the present invention, when preparing the oil-in-water type calamine cosmetic composition, in order to prevent direct contact between calamine and polymer, it is attempted to stabilize calamine in the inner phase and separate it from the outer phase in which the polymer exists. As such a method, a method of using a sorbitan-based surfactant and a sugar-based surfactant together with calamine was studied, and by this method, a high content of sorbitan surfactant was stabilized in the internal phase of an oil-in-water cosmetic. Calamine, which can ensure long-term stability, and can also improve the feeling of use of cosmetics.
現有技術文獻 prior art literature
[專利文獻] [Patent Document]
(專利文獻1)1.韓國授權專利第10-1590803號 (Patent Document 1) 1. Korean Granted Patent No. 10-1590803
本發明人為了獲得比現有的油包水型爐甘石化妝料的使用感得到改善的使用感，試圖製備在水包油型中穩定化高含量的爐甘石的化妝料。但是，在水包油型中穩定化爐甘石的過程中，出現了聚合物的凝膠化現象的問題，為了解決這個問題，研究了將聚合物和爐甘石分散在相異的相中的方法。 The inventors of the present invention attempted to prepare a cosmetic having a high content of calamine stabilized in an oil-in-water type in order to obtain a feeling of use that is improved compared with that of a conventional water-in-oil type calamine cosmetic. However, in the process of stabilizing calamine in the oil-in-water type, there is a problem of gelation of the polymer, and in order to solve this problem, it is studied to disperse the polymer and calamine in different phases. Methods.
即，發現藉由如下方法能夠解決該問題，所述方法為藉由在作為內相的油相中穩定化爐甘石，並以一定的比率配合並一同使用脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑及糖類表面活性劑，而不像現有的方法在作為外相的水相中強制分散爐甘石，從而完成了本發明。 That is, it was found that the problem can be solved by stabilizing calamine in an oil phase as an internal phase, and compounding and using a sorbitan-based surfactant and The present invention has been accomplished by compulsorily dispersing calamine in an aqueous phase as an external phase, unlike the prior art, using sugar surfactants.
因此，本發明的目的在於提供在內相中穩定化高含量的爐甘石的水包油型化妝料組合物。 Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide an oil-in-water cosmetic composition in which a high content of calamine is stabilized in the internal phase.
為了實現上述目的，本發明提供穩定化高含量爐甘石的水包油型化妝料組合物，其含有爐甘石、脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑及糖類表面活性劑而在內相中穩定化爐甘石。 In order to achieve the above objects, the present invention provides a stabilized oil-in-water cosmetic composition with a high content of calamine, which contains calamine, a sorbitan-based surfactant, and a sugar-based surfactant to stabilize Calamine.
此外，本發明提供在製備內相中含有高含量爐甘石的水包油型化妝料組合物中，脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑及糖類表面活性劑的混合物作為內相穩定劑的用途。此外，本發明提供在水包油型化妝料組合物的內相中穩定化高含量的爐甘石的方法。進一步地，本發明提供將本發明的在內相中穩定化高含量的爐甘石的水包油型化妝料組合物應用於皮膚上，從而極大化爐甘石的功能性活性的方法。 Furthermore, the present invention provides the use of a mixture of a sorbitan-based surfactant and a sugar-based surfactant as an internal phase stabilizer in the preparation of an oil-in-water cosmetic composition containing a high content of calamine in the internal phase. Furthermore, the present invention provides a method of stabilizing a high content of calamine in the internal phase of an oil-in-water cosmetic composition. Further, the present invention provides a method for maximizing the functional activity of calamine by applying the oil-in-water cosmetic composition of the present invention, which stabilizes a high content of calamine in the internal phase, to the skin.
本發明的化妝料組合物一同使用脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑及糖類表面活性劑，從而能夠提高含有爐甘石的水包油劑型的穩定度及長期穩定 度。此外，能夠在水包油型的內相中穩定化高含量的爐甘石，從而能夠改善乾澀的塗抹性等不好的使用感，並且能夠提高皮膚吸收能力。 The cosmetic composition of the present invention uses a sorbitan-based surfactant and a sugar-based surfactant together to improve the stability and long-term stability of the oil-in-water dosage form containing calamine Spend. In addition, a high content of calamine can be stabilized in the oil-in-water type inner phase, thereby improving bad feeling of use such as dry applicability, and improving skin absorption capacity.
第1圖是為了對製備實施例1及比較例1~5後在45℃下保存2周後的水相和油相的分離程度進行觀察而對組合物的外觀進行拍攝的照片。 Fig. 1 is a photograph of the appearance of the composition taken to observe the degree of separation of the water phase and the oil phase after storage at 45° C. for 2 weeks after preparation of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5.
第2圖是對在水包油型中穩定化實施例1的組分的霜狀的外觀進行拍攝的照片。第2圖的右下方的小照片是將該霜塗膜在皮膚上的狀態，能夠確認粉末粒子均勻地分散而完全沒有凝結。 Fig. 2 is a photograph taken of the creamy appearance of the stabilized component of Example 1 in the oil-in-water type. The small photo on the lower right of Fig. 2 shows the state of applying the cream on the skin, and it can be confirmed that the powder particles are evenly dispersed without agglomeration at all.
本發明涉及在內相中穩定化高含量的爐甘石的水包油型化妝料組合物，其含有爐甘石、脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑及糖類表面活性劑。 The present invention relates to an oil-in-water cosmetic composition that stabilizes a high content of calamine in an internal phase, and contains calamine, a sorbitan-based surfactant, and a sugar-based surfactant.
下面，對本發明進行更加具體的說明。 Next, the present invention will be described in more detail.
爐甘石 Calamine
在化妝料中作為功效成分而包含的爐甘石為呈淡紅色的精細粉末原料，主要以改善痤瘡性皮膚和鎮靜皮膚的目的而使用。此外，已知爐甘石還包含於油包水型化妝料中而顯示出美白效果和保濕效果。 Calamine, which is included as a functional ingredient in cosmetics, is a reddish fine powder raw material, and is mainly used for improving acne-prone skin and calming the skin. In addition, it is known that calamine is contained in water-in-oil cosmetics to exhibit whitening effects and moisturizing effects.
本發明提供化妝料組合物，其含有高含量的具有如上所述的功效的爐甘石，並在水包油型的內相中穩定化爐甘石，而並非在油包水型的內相中穩定化爐甘石。 The present invention provides a cosmetic composition containing a high content of calamine having the above-mentioned effects and stabilizing the calamine in an internal phase of an oil-in-water type instead of a water-in-oil type Medium stabilized calamine.
相對於組合物的總重量，本發明的化妝料組合物中可以包含0.01~15重量%的上述爐甘石，較佳可以包含5~15重量%。當上述爐甘石超過15 重量%時，會降低分散穩定度，當上述爐甘石小於0.01重量%時，由爐甘石引起的對皮膚的影響效果甚微。 Relative to the total weight of the composition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain 0.01 to 15% by weight of the above-mentioned calamine, preferably 5 to 15% by weight. When the above calamine exceeds 15 % by weight, the dispersion stability will be reduced, and when the above-mentioned calamine is less than 0.01% by weight, the effect on the skin caused by calamine is very little.
在本發明的化妝料組合物中，所述爐甘石可以使用商業上市售的原料，也可以使用可藉由調節組成爐甘石的成分的配合比例並以通常的方法製備的變形的爐甘石。 In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, commercially available raw materials may be used for the calamine, or a deformed calamine prepared by a usual method by adjusting the compounding ratio of the components constituting the calamine may be used. stone.
糖類表面活性劑及脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑 Sugar surfactants and sorbitan surfactants
本發明中使用非離子型表面活性劑，以在水包油型的內相中穩定化上述爐甘石，在非離子型表面活性劑中，一同使用一種以上的糖類表面活性劑及一種以上的脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑。 In the present invention, nonionic surfactants are used to stabilize the above-mentioned calamine in the internal phase of the oil-in-water type. In the nonionic surfactants, more than one carbohydrate surfactant and more than one Sorbitan surfactant.
本發明的化妝料組合物中，所述糖類表面活性劑是指烷基糖苷(Alkyl polyglycoside，APGs)類表面活性劑、糖酯(Sugar ester)類表面活性劑或它們的混合物。 In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the sugar surfactant refers to an alkyl glycoside (Alkyl polyglycoside, APGs) surfactant, a sugar ester (Sugar ester) surfactant or a mixture thereof.
所述烷基糖苷類表面活性劑中，烷基糖苷是指由下述化學式1表示的常規的烷基糖苷。此外，本發明中所述烷基糖苷類表面活性劑可以包括由下述化學式1表示的烷基糖苷和脂肪醇的混合物。 In the alkyl glycoside surfactant, the alkyl glycoside refers to a conventional alkyl glycoside represented by the following chemical formula 1. In addition, the alkyl glycoside-based surfactant in the present invention may include a mixture of an alkyl glycoside represented by Chemical Formula 1 below and a fatty alcohol.
所述糖酯類表面活性劑中，糖酯主要為糖脂肪酸酯，其是指葡萄糖與C10~C30脂肪酸，較佳與C12~C26的脂肪酸進行酯鍵結合的物質。此外，在 本發明中，所述糖酯類表面活性劑包括常規的糖脂肪酸酯的同時，還包括糖和其他物質的縮合反應物與脂肪酸結合而生成的酯化合物。 Among the sugar ester surfactants, sugar esters are mainly sugar fatty acid esters, which refer to substances that are ester-bonded with glucose and C10-C30 fatty acids, preferably with C12-C26 fatty acids. In addition, in In the present invention, the sugar ester surfactant includes not only conventional sugar fatty acid esters, but also ester compounds formed by combining condensation reaction products of sugar and other substances with fatty acids.
較佳地，在本發明的化妝料組合物中，所述烷基糖苷類表面活性劑可以為選自由C6~C30的高級醇和C10~C30葡萄糖苷衍生物的混合物組成的表面活性劑中的一種以上。更加詳細地，可以為選自C14-22醇*C12-20烷基葡糖苷(C14-22 Alcohols and C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside)、鯨蠟硬脂醇*鯨蠟硬脂基葡糖苷(Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside)、山崳醇*花生醇*花生醇葡糖苷(Behenyl Alcohol and Arachidyl Alcohol and Arachidyl Glucoside)、鯨蠟硬脂醇*椰油基葡糖苷(Cetearyl alcohol and Coco-Glucoside)中的一種以上。 Preferably, in the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the alkyl glycoside surfactant may be one of the surfactants selected from a mixture of C6-C30 higher alcohols and C10-C30 glucoside derivatives above. In more detail, it can be selected from C14-22 alcohol * C12-20 alkyl glucoside (C14-22 Alcohols and C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside), cetearyl alcohol * cetearyl glucoside (Cetearyl Alcohol and One or more of Cetearyl Glucoside), Behenyl Alcohol and Arachidyl Alcohol and Arachidyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol and Coco-Glucoside.
此外，較佳地，本發明的化妝料組合物中，所述糖酯類表面活性劑可以為聚甘油-3甲基葡糖二硬脂酸酯(Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate)。 In addition, preferably, in the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the sugar ester surfactant may be Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate).
更佳地，本發明的化妝料組合物中，所述糖類表面活性劑可以單獨使用鯨蠟硬脂醇*鯨蠟硬脂基葡糖苷(Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside)作為所述烷基糖苷類表面活性劑，或者可以將所述鯨蠟硬脂醇*鯨蠟硬脂基葡糖苷和作為所述糖酯類表面活性劑的所述聚甘油-3甲基葡糖二硬脂酸酯(Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate)進行混合並一同使用。 More preferably, in the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the saccharide surfactant can use cetearyl alcohol*cetearyl glucoside (Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside) alone as the surface of the alkyl glycoside active agent, or the cetearyl alcohol * cetearyl glucoside and the polyglycerol-3 methylglucose distearate (Polyglyceryl- 3 Methylglucose Distearate) and used together.
本發明中所使用的所述糖類表面活性劑起到穩定化水包油(O/W)乳化粒子的作用。尤其，可用於本發明的所述鯨蠟硬脂醇*鯨蠟硬脂基葡糖苷(Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside)包含鯨蠟硬脂醇，因此其為脂肪醇的含量更高的表面活性劑，包含在其中的脂肪醇在鯨蠟硬脂基葡糖苷形成的O/W界面膜周圍形成液晶，從而起到更加堅固地保持界面膜的作用。由此，在苛刻的條件或長期保管時，也能夠優異地保持乳化穩定度，因此在本發明中能夠成為防止爐甘石的凝結或分離的重要成分。 The sugar surfactant used in the present invention functions to stabilize oil-in-water (O/W) emulsified particles. In particular, the cetearyl alcohol * cetearyl glucoside (Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside) that can be used in the present invention contains cetearyl alcohol, so it is a surfactant with a higher content of fatty alcohol, The fatty alcohol contained therein forms liquid crystals around the O/W interface film formed by cetearyl glucoside, thereby functioning to hold the interface film more firmly. Thereby, emulsion stability can be maintained excellent also in severe conditions or long-term storage, Therefore In this invention, it can become an important component which prevents the coagulation or separation of calamine.
相對於組合物的總重量，本發明的化妝料組合物可以包含0.1~8重量%的所述糖類表面活性劑，較佳可以包含1~5重量%。當所述糖類表面活性劑超過8重量%時，不能形成劑型，當所述糖類表面活性劑小於0.1重量%時，作為表面活性劑的作用甚微。 Relative to the total weight of the composition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain 0.1-8% by weight of the carbohydrate surfactant, preferably 1-5% by weight. When the sugar surfactant exceeds 8% by weight, a dosage form cannot be formed, and when the sugar surfactant is less than 0.1% by weight, it has little effect as a surfactant.
本發明的化妝料組合物中，脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑包含脫水山梨糖醇酯(Sorbitan Ester)或脫水山梨糖醇酯和環氧乙烷的加聚物。雖然脫水山梨糖醇酯通常也被分類為糖類表面活性劑，但在本發明中脫水山梨糖醇酯及/或其聚合物成分對本發明的化妝料組合物的劑型穩定度產生較大影響，因此認為其很重要而對其進行單獨分類。 In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the sorbitan-based surfactant includes sorbitan ester or an addition polymer of sorbitan ester and ethylene oxide. Although sorbitan esters are generally classified as sugar surfactants, in the present invention, sorbitan esters and/or their polymer components have a greater impact on the dosage form stability of the cosmetic composition of the present invention, so It is considered important to classify it separately.
本發明的化妝料組合物中，所述脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑較佳使用山梨坦脂肪酸酯，可以包含選自山梨坦橄欖油酸酯(Sorbitan Olivate)、山梨坦硬脂酸酯(Sorbitan Stearate)、山梨坦異硬脂酸酯(Sorbitan Isostearate)、山梨坦三硬脂酸酯(Sorbitan Tristearate)、山梨坦倍半硬脂酸酯(Sorbitan Sesquistearate)、山梨坦棕櫚酸酯(Sorbitan Palmitate)、山梨坦月桂酸酯(Sorbitan Laurate)、山梨坦油酸酯(Sorbitan Oleate)、山梨坦倍半油酸酯(Sorbitan Sesquioleate)、山梨坦三油酸酯(Sorbitan Trioleate)、山梨坦硬脂酸酯/山梨醇月桂酸酯(Sorbitan Stearate and Sorbityl Laurate)、聚山梨醇酯20(Polysorbate 20)、聚山梨醇酯40、聚山梨醇酯60、聚山梨醇酯65、聚山梨醇酯80及聚山梨醇酯85中的一種以上。 In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the sorbitan surfactant is preferably a sorbitan fatty acid ester, which may include a fatty acid ester selected from sorbitan olive oil (Sorbitan Olivate), sorbitan stearate ( Sorbitan Stearate), Sorbitan Isostearate, Sorbitan Tristearate, Sorbitan Sesquistearate, Sorbitan Palmitate , Sorbitan Laurate, Sorbitan Oleate, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Sorbitan Trioleate, Sorbitan Stearate /Sorbitan Stearate and Sorbityl Laurate, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 40, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 65, Polysorbate 80 and Polysorbate One or more of the alcohol esters 85.
本發明中所使用的所述脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑起到增加分散性的作用，以使爐甘石粉末能均勻地分散在水包油型的內相中。尤其，與聚山梨醇酯(Polysorbate)組合使用時，能夠非常有效地在水包油型的內相中穩定化高含量的爐甘石，其中，所述聚山梨醇酯是在脫水山梨糖醇酯中結合表面活性能力非常優異的聚乙二醇(Polyethylene Glycol，PEG)的表面活性劑。 The sorbitan surfactant used in the present invention plays a role in increasing the dispersibility, so that the calamine powder can be uniformly dispersed in the oil-in-water type internal phase. In particular, high levels of calamine in the internal phase of the oil-in-water type can be stabilized very effectively in combination with Polysorbate (Polysorbate), which is in the form of sorbitan It is a surfactant that combines polyethylene glycol (Polyethylene Glycol, PEG) with very excellent surface active ability in the ester.
相對於組合物的總重量，本發明的化妝料組合物可以包含0.01~5重量%的所述脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑，較佳可以包含0.5~4重量%。當所述脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑超過5重量%時，會阻礙劑型的形成，當所述脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑小於0.01重量%時，難以期待改善分散性的能力。 Relative to the total weight of the composition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain 0.01-5% by weight of the sorbitan-based surfactant, preferably 0.5-4% by weight. When the sorbitan-based surfactant exceeds 5% by weight, the formation of a dosage form is hindered, and when the sorbitan-based surfactant is less than 0.01% by weight, it is difficult to expect the ability to improve dispersibility.
本發明的化妝料組合物中，較佳為一同使用各一種以上的所述糖類表面活性劑和所述脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑，當僅使用糖類表面活性劑或脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑時，不能使組合物很好地形成為水包油型劑型，或者會使穩定度顯著降低。最佳地，以重量為基準，所述糖類表面活性劑及所述脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑的混合比例為2.5：0.6~2.5時，能夠顯示出優異的劑型穩定性及長期穩定性。 In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, it is preferable to use one or more of each of the sugar surfactant and the sorbitan surfactant together. When only the sugar surfactant or the sorbitan surfactant is used, When the active agent is used, the composition cannot be well formed into an oil-in-water dosage form, or the stability will be significantly reduced. Optimally, based on weight, when the mixing ratio of the sugar surfactant and the sorbitan surfactant is 2.5:0.6-2.5, it can show excellent dosage form stability and long-term stability.
此外，本發明的化妝料組合物中不較佳地使用其他非離子型表面活性劑或者使用陰離子型表面活性劑來代替所述脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑。例如，使用普遍使用的作為非離子型表面活性劑的PEG-100硬脂酸酯(PEG-100 Stearate)或硬脂酸甘油酯(Glyceryl MonoStearate)，或者使用作為陰離子型表面活性劑的甘油硬脂酸酯檸檬酸酯(Glyceryl Stearate Citrate)或鯨蠟醇磷酸酯鉀(Potassium Cetyl Phosphate)等時，僅使用它們而未混合使用糖類表面活性劑及脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑時，難以在水包油型的內相中穩定化爐甘石，並且在製備時無法形成劑型而直接分離，或者即使形成劑型，也會降低長期穩定度。 In addition, it is not preferable to use other nonionic surfactants or to use anionic surfactants instead of the sorbitan-based surfactants in the cosmetic composition of the present invention. For example, using commonly used PEG-100 Stearate (PEG-100 Stearate) or Glyceryl MonoStearate as a nonionic surfactant, or using Glyceryl Stearate as an anionic surfactant When using only Glyceryl Stearate Citrate or Potassium Cetyl Phosphate without mixing sugar surfactants and sorbitan surfactants, it is difficult to dissolve in water. Calamine is stabilized in the internal phase of the oil-in-oil type, and it cannot be formed into a dosage form during preparation and can be directly separated, or even if it is formed into a dosage form, the long-term stability will be reduced.
其它成分 other ingredients
本發明的化妝料組合物中，除了包含爐甘石和所述糖類及脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑之外，還可以包含油、多元醇、增稠劑及水等。 The cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain oil, polyhydric alcohol, a thickener, water, and the like in addition to calamine, the sugar, and the sorbitan-based surfactant.
本發明的化妝料組合物中，為了賦予適當的保濕能力，相對於組合物的總重量，可以包含10重量%左右的油類，例如可以使用酯類油、烴 (hydrocarbon)類油。此外，相對於組合物的總重量，可以包含5~15重量%的多元醇。 In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, in order to impart appropriate moisturizing ability, oils may be contained in an amount of about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example, ester oils, hydrocarbon (hydrocarbon) oils. In addition, polyhydric alcohol may be contained in an amount of 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
此外，就增稠劑而言，例如可以使用丙烯酸羥乙酯/丙烯醯二甲基牛磺酸鈉共聚物(Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer)、丙烯醯二甲基牛磺酸銨/VP共聚物(Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer)、聚丙烯酸酯交聯聚合物-6(Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6)、聚丙烯酸酯-13(Polyacrylate-13)或聚丙烯酸鈉(Sodium Poylacrylate)等聚丙烯酸酯類等，相對於組合物的總重量，可以包含0.1~3重量%的增稠劑。 In addition, as a thickener, for example, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer (Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer), acryloyl dimethyl taurate ammonium/VP copolymer, etc. Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 (Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6), polyacrylate-13 (Polyacrylate-13) or polyacrylates such as sodium polyacrylate (Sodium Poylacrylate), etc., The thickener may be contained in an amount of 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
本發明的化妝料組合物中，與使用卡波姆系列的增稠劑時相比，使用聚丙烯酸酯類作為增稠劑時，更有利於水包油型的劑型穩定度。這是因為在水包油型中使用卡波姆系列的增稠劑時，容易受到電荷的影響而會發生更易於與爐甘石等粉末凝結的現象，從而會降低質量。 In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, when polyacrylates are used as thickeners, the stability of the oil-in-water formulation is more favorable than when carbomer series thickeners are used. This is because when using a carbomer series thickener in an oil-in-water type, it is easily affected by the charge and tends to coagulate with calamine and other powders more easily, resulting in a decrease in quality.
此外，本發明的化妝料組合物中，除了包含上述成分之外，還可以進一步包含常規化妝料的製備時通常使用的選自保濕劑、色素、香料、防腐劑及其它添加劑中的一種以上。 In addition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may further contain, in addition to the above components, one or more selected from moisturizers, pigments, fragrances, preservatives and other additives commonly used in the preparation of conventional cosmetics.
本發明的水包油型化妝料組合物中，所述水包油型為水包油(oil-in-water，O/W)形態的外相(連續相)為水相且內相(非連續相)為油相的乳化劑型，並且使作為主要的皮膚功效成分的爐甘石包含在內相中來製備。 In the oil-in-water cosmetic composition of the present invention, the oil-in-water type is an oil-in-water (O/W) form in which the external phase (continuous phase) is an aqueous phase and the internal phase (discontinuous phase) phase) is an emulsified formulation of an oil phase, and is prepared by including calamine as a main skin functional ingredient in the inner phase.
例如，本發明的水包油型化妝料組合物可以藉由如下方法製備，即，分別將水相成分和油相成分進行加溫溶解，然後在水相部分中加入油相部分並進行乳化，但爐甘石是包含在油相成分中進行分散，然後將上述經過乳化的內容物進行冷卻後，再經過添加增稠劑及分散的過程來製備。 For example, the oil-in-water cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared by heating and dissolving the water-phase component and the oil-phase component, and then emulsifying the water-phase component by adding the oil-phase component, However, calamine is prepared by being contained in the oil phase components for dispersion, and then cooling the above-mentioned emulsified content, and then adding a thickener and dispersing.
藉由上述方法製備的本發明的水包油型化妝料組合物在45℃的高溫條件以及在9,000rpm的高速混合時，也不會發生粒子的析出或劑型的分離，並且能夠保持12個月以上的長期穩定度。 The oil-in-water cosmetic composition of the present invention prepared by the above method does not cause particle precipitation or separation of dosage forms when mixed at a high temperature of 45°C and at a high speed of 9,000 rpm, and can be kept for 12 months above long-term stability.
此外，根據上述方法實現穩定化的本發明的化妝料組合物能夠改善塗抹性等使用感，並且能夠提高皮膚吸收能力。 In addition, the cosmetic composition of the present invention stabilized by the above-mentioned method can improve the feeling of use such as spreadability, and can improve the skin absorption ability.
對於本發明的水包油型化妝料組合物不作特別的限制，但可以劑型化為精華素、乳液、霜、膏的形態而塗布或噴霧在皮膚或黏膜上，並且可以用於以下化妝料中，即，保濕、美白、短期內改善及修整膚色、調理過敏(trouble care)、鎮靜或改善敏感性皮膚等。 The oil-in-water cosmetic composition of the present invention is not particularly limited, but it can be formulated into the form of essence, lotion, cream, ointment, coated or sprayed on the skin or mucous membranes, and can be used in the following cosmetics , that is, moisturizing, whitening, short-term improvement and repair of skin tone, conditioning allergies (trouble care), calming or improving sensitive skin, etc.
下面，藉由實施例及比較例對本發明進行更加詳細的說明。但是，下述實施例及比較例僅用於幫助理解本發明，本發明的實施例可以變形為多種其他形態，本發明的範圍並不限定於此。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with examples and comparative examples. However, the following examples and comparative examples are only for helping the understanding of the present invention, and the examples of the present invention can be modified into various other forms, and the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto.
[實施例及比較例：水包油型化妝料組合物的製備] [Example and Comparative Example: Preparation of Oil-in-Water Cosmetic Composition]
根據下述表1及表2中記載的各成分和含量，並根據以下所述的製備方法，製備實施例1~7及比較例1~5的水包油型化妝料組合物。 The oil-in-water cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were prepared according to the components and contents described in the following Tables 1 and 2, and according to the preparation method described below.
製備時，爐甘石使用產品名稱為“Calamine(JUHWAN BIOCELL公司製造)”，在實施例中糖類表面活性劑使用鯨蠟硬脂醇*鯨蠟硬脂基葡糖苷(Montanov 68，法國的Seppic公司製造)及/或聚甘油-3甲基葡糖二硬脂酸酯(Tego care 450，贏創(Evonik)公司製造)，脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑使用山梨坦橄欖油酸酯(Olivem 1000，B&T公司製造)及/或聚山梨醇酯60(吐溫#60V，CRODA公司製造)。 During preparation, calamine uses product name to be " Calamine (manufactured by JUHWAN BIOCELL company) ", and in the embodiment sugar surfactant uses cetearyl alcohol * cetearyl glucoside (Montanov 68, the Seppic company of France manufacturing) and/or polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (Tego care 450, manufactured by Evonik), and sorbitan surfactants use sorbitan olive oil ester (Olivem 1000 , manufactured by B&T Company) and/or polysorbate 60 (Tween #60V, manufactured by CRODA Company).
製備方法 Preparation
根據下述表1及表2，對原料進行計量後， According to following table 1 and table 2, after raw material is measured,
(1)將精製水和多元醇等水相成分放入燒杯中進行混合，並加溫至75℃以上進行溶解。 (1) Purified water and water phase components such as polyols are put into a beaker, mixed, and heated to 75° C. or higher to dissolve.
(2)將油和表面活性劑等油相成分加溫至75℃以上進行溶解。 (2) The oil phase components such as oil and surfactant are heated to 75°C or higher to dissolve them.
(3)將爐甘石放入油相部分中進行分散，而不是放入水相部分。 (3) Calamine is put into the oil phase part instead of the water phase part for dispersion.
(4)將油相部分放入水相部分中，進行均相混合來進行乳化。 (4) Put the oil phase part in the water phase part, perform homogeneous mixing, and emulsify.
(5)將在(4)中經過乳化的內容物冷卻一定時間後進行再分散。形成一定以上的黏度後施加剪切力(shear)，則爐甘石的分散會更加容易。 (5) Redisperse after cooling the content emulsified in (4) for a certain period of time. Calamine disperses more easily when a shear force (shear) is applied after forming a viscosity above a certain level.
(6)添加增稠劑進行均相分散。 (6) Add a thickener for homogeneous dispersion.
[試驗例1：乳化穩定度的評價] [Test Example 1: Evaluation of Emulsion Stability]
製備所述實施例1~7及比較例1~5後在45℃下保存兩周，然後藉由肉眼觀察水相和油相的分離程度，以此評價劑型形成穩定度及高溫穩定度。 After the preparation of Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-5, they were stored at 45°C for two weeks, and then the degree of separation of the water phase and the oil phase was observed with the naked eye to evaluate the formulation stability and high temperature stability.
其結果示於第1圖及下述表3和表4中。 The results are shown in Fig. 1 and Tables 3 and 4 below.
[試驗例2：加速穩定度的評價] [Test Example 2: Evaluation of Acceleration Stability]
利用低溫恆溫器(Low temp.Incubator)LTI-1001SD(EYELA公司的產品名稱)，在-15℃~45℃，24小時週期(cycle)下，觀察上述實施例1~7及比較例1~5的劑型分離程度及粉末凝結程度，以此評價劑型的加速穩定度。 Using a low temperature thermostat (Low temp. Incubator) LTI-1001SD (product name of EYELA Company), at -15 ° C ~ 45 ° C, 24 hours cycle (cycle), observe the above-mentioned Examples 1-7 and Comparative Examples 1-5 The degree of separation of the dosage form and the degree of coagulation of the powder are used to evaluate the accelerated stability of the dosage form.
其結果示於下述表3和表4中。 The results are shown in Table 3 and Table 4 below.
*○：良好、△：普通、×：分離 *○: Good, △: Normal, ×: Separation
從上述表3可以確認，就以5~15重量%的高含量包含爐甘石的同時含有糖類表面活性劑及脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑的實施例1~7而言，爐甘石很好地穩定在作為油相的內相中，從而高溫穩定度和加速穩定度均顯示出優異的結果。就實施例2、3而言，其中以實施例1為基準，將爐甘石的含量增量至2倍、3倍，同時對爐甘石的分散有效的脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑也進行增量，其結果確認到爐甘石的含量達到10~15重量%時，也都能夠得到穩定度優異的劑型。此時，以重量為基準，糖類表面活性劑及所述脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑的混合比例較佳為2.5：0.6~2.5。 From the above Table 3, it can be confirmed that in Examples 1 to 7, in which calamine is contained at a high content of 5 to 15% by weight and a sugar surfactant and a sorbitan surfactant are contained, calamine is very low. It is well stabilized in the internal phase as the oil phase, so that both high temperature stability and accelerated stability show excellent results. With respect to embodiment 2,3, wherein with embodiment 1 as benchmark, the content increase of calamine is to 2 times, 3 times, the effective sorbitan surfactant to the dispersion of calamine is also As a result of increasing the amount, it was confirmed that even when the content of calamine was 10 to 15% by weight, a dosage form with excellent stability could be obtained. At this time, based on weight, the mixing ratio of the sugar surfactant and the sorbitan surfactant is preferably 2.5:0.6-2.5.
此外，將爐甘石的含量固定為5重量%，並更換表面活性劑的種類進行測試的結果，同時含有一種以上的糖類表面活性劑和一種以上的脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑的實施例1及實施例4~7的高溫穩定度和加速穩定度均顯示出優異的結果。 In addition, the content of calamine was fixed at 5% by weight, and the type of surfactant was changed to test the results. Examples containing one or more sugar-based surfactants and one or more sorbitan-based surfactants at the same time The high-temperature stability and the accelerated stability of 1 and Examples 4 to 7 all show excellent results.
其中，根據第1圖的結果，藉由肉眼可以確認實施例1在製備後在45℃下保存2周後也沒有出現水相和油相的分離，並且與比較例1~5相比，實施例1非常穩定。此外，根據第2圖可以確認，將以實施例1的組分在水包油型中進行穩定化的霜塗抹在皮膚上時，粉末粒子均勻地分散而完全沒有凝結。 Among them, according to the results in Figure 1, it can be confirmed with the naked eye that the separation of the water phase and the oil phase does not occur in Example 1 after being stored at 45° C. for 2 weeks after preparation, and compared with Comparative Examples 1 to 5, the implementation Example 1 is very stable. In addition, it can be confirmed from FIG. 2 that when the cream stabilized in the oil-in-water type with the components of Example 1 is applied to the skin, the powder particles are uniformly dispersed without agglomeration at all.
另外，在實施例中，比較混合使用兩種糖類表面活性劑的實施例4和實施例5時，觀察鯨蠟硬脂醇*鯨蠟硬脂基葡糖苷的含量比實施例4高的實施例5的結果，所形成的劑型的硬度最高，從而預期其長期穩定度更加優異的可能性高。這似乎是包含於鯨蠟硬脂醇*鯨蠟硬脂基葡糖苷的脂肪醇在鯨蠟硬脂基葡糖苷形成的O/W界面膜周圍形成液晶，從而更加堅固地保持界面膜，因此提高硬度的結果。 In addition, in Examples, when comparing Example 4 and Example 5 in which two types of sugar surfactants were used in combination, it was observed that the content of cetearyl alcohol * cetearyl glucoside was higher than that of Example 4. As a result of 5, the hardness of the formed dosage form is the highest, so it is expected that there is a high possibility that its long-term stability will be more excellent. It seems that the fatty alcohol contained in cetearyl alcohol * cetearyl glucoside forms liquid crystals around the O/W interface film formed by cetearyl glucoside, thereby maintaining the interface film more firmly, thus improving Hardness results.
然而，根據所述表4可以確認，就僅單獨使用糖類表面活性劑的比較例4而言，雖然其加速穩定度良好，但是其高溫穩定度顯示出普通的結果，從而可知與加速穩定度相比，其高溫穩定度更弱。其它比較例的高溫穩定度和加速穩定度顯示出相似的狀態，但比較例4具有暴露在高溫時受到更大影響的傾向。此外，如第1圖所示，在高溫下比較例4的劑型逐漸成團，爐甘石凝結，邊緣發生積水的現象，從而再次確認總體上其穩定度非常不穩定。 However, according to the above-mentioned Table 4, it can be confirmed that in Comparative Example 4 using only the sugar surfactant alone, although the accelerated stability is good, the high-temperature stability shows mediocre results, and it can be seen that the accelerated stability is comparable to that of the accelerated stability. Compared with, its high temperature stability is weaker. High-temperature stability and accelerated stability of other Comparative Examples showed similar states, but Comparative Example 4 tended to be more affected by exposure to high temperature. In addition, as shown in Figure 1, the dosage form of Comparative Example 4 gradually agglomerates at high temperature, calamine coagulates, and water accumulates at the edges, which reconfirms that its overall stability is very unstable.
並且，根據所述表4可以確認，僅單獨使用脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑的比較例5的劑型分離而沒有得到穩定化。由此可知僅使用脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑來製備劑型，而排除糖類表面活性劑時，其穩定度未能得到顯著的提高。由此可知，雖然脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑對促進爐甘石粉末的分散穩定性起到很大的作用，但是在形成穩定的O/W乳化粒子時，只有與糖類表面活性劑一同使用時才能發揮其作用。 Furthermore, it was confirmed from Table 4 that the dosage form of Comparative Example 5 using only a sorbitan-based surfactant alone was separated without being stabilized. It can be seen that only sorbitan surfactants are used to prepare dosage forms, and when sugar surfactants are excluded, the stability cannot be significantly improved. It can be seen that although sorbitan surfactants play a great role in promoting the dispersion stability of calamine powder, they can only be used together with sugar surfactants when forming stable O/W emulsified particles. time to play its role.
另外，根據上述表4及第1圖可以確認，使用陰離子型表面活性劑來代替脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑的比較例1及比較例2直接分離而未能穩定地形成劑型。在45℃下暴露將近2周時，發現水分離且粉末凝結的現象。並且，根據上述表4及第1圖可以確認，使用PEG類表面活性劑PEG-100硬脂酸酯來代替脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑的比較例3中，雖然會形成劑型，但是其高溫穩定度和加速穩定度差，從而顯示出長期穩定度降低。 In addition, from the above-mentioned Table 4 and FIG. 1 , it was confirmed that Comparative Examples 1 and 2 in which anionic surfactants were used instead of sorbitan-based surfactants were directly separated and could not be stably formed into dosage forms. When exposed at 45°C for nearly 2 weeks, water separation and powder coagulation were observed. And, can confirm according to above-mentioned Table 4 and Fig. 1, in the comparative example 3 that uses PEG type surfactant PEG-100 stearate instead of sorbitan type surfactant, although can form dosage form, its high temperature Stability and acceleration stability are poor, thus showing reduced long-term stability.
藉由上述實施例及比較例和試驗例確認了一同使用糖類表面活性劑及脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑來在內相中穩定化爐甘石時，能夠得到含有高含量的爐甘石的水包油型化妝料組合物。尤其，以重量為基準，以2.5：0.6~2.5的比例使用糖類表面活性劑及脫水山梨糖醇類表面活性劑時，能夠成功地在水包油型的內相中穩定化高含量的爐甘石，從而確保長期穩定性。因此，在內相 中穩定化高含量的爐甘石的本發明的水包油型化妝料組合物能夠改善塗抹性等使用感，並且能夠提高皮膚吸收能力。 From the above-mentioned examples, comparative examples, and test examples, it was confirmed that when calamine is stabilized in the inner phase by using a sugar surfactant and a sorbitan surfactant together, a product containing a high content of calamine can be obtained. An oil-in-water cosmetic composition. In particular, when sugar surfactants and sorbitan surfactants were used at a ratio of 2.5:0.6~2.5 by weight, it was possible to successfully stabilize a high content of calamari in the internal phase of the oil-in-water type. stone, thereby ensuring long-term stability. Therefore, the inner phase The oil-in-water cosmetic composition of the present invention in which a high content of calamine is stabilized can improve the feeling of use such as spreadability, and can improve skin absorption.
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