TW201843364A - Double-sided circular-knitted fabric and system and method for manufacturing the same - Google Patents
Double-sided circular-knitted fabric and system and method for manufacturing the same Download PDFInfo
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本發明涉及一種彈性織品及其製造系統與製造方法,特別是涉及一種雙面圓編彈性織品及其製造系統與製造方法。 The present invention relates to an elastic fabric, a manufacturing system therefor and a manufacturing method thereof, and more particularly to a double-sided circular braided elastic fabric, a manufacturing system thereof and a manufacturing method.
在紡織相關技術領域中,相較於一般布料,針織布料由於具備質地柔軟、容易透風透氣、彈性高,以及在生產製造的速度較快且產量高等優點,已被廣泛用於人類穿著用品以及生活用品中。舉例而言,針織布料可被用於製造POLO衫、T-Shirt(T恤)、圍巾、手套、毛衣、運動衣著、泳衣、貼身衣物以及紡織家飾品等。針織布料主要分為圓編針織布、經編針織布以及橫編針織布等類別。其中,圓編針織布中的線環緯向串連,並可進一步區分為單面布、羅紋布、雙面布、提花布等。基於其布料特性,圓編針織物被廣泛用於生產貼身衣物產品。 In the textile-related technical field, compared with general fabrics, knitted fabrics have been widely used in human wear and life because of their soft texture, easy air permeability, high elasticity, and high speed in production and high output. In the supplies. For example, knitted fabrics can be used to make POLO shirts, T-Shirts, scarves, gloves, sweaters, sportswear, swimwear, intimate apparel, and textile home accessories. Knitted fabrics are mainly classified into circular knitted fabrics, warp knitted fabrics, and horizontal knitted fabrics. Among them, the loops in the circular knitted fabrics are connected in series in the weft direction, and can be further divided into single-face cloth, rib cloth, double-sided cloth, jacquard cloth, and the like. Based on its fabric characteristics, circular knitted fabrics are widely used in the production of intimate apparel products.
圓編針織布中的雙面布(INTERLOCK)是由至少兩層的織物單元所形成,且雙面布的正面及反面布紋都是呈現一條條的直向織紋。雙面布相較於羅紋布具有較小的彈性而較不會發生變形,因此可被良好地適用於製造具有塑型功能的衣物,諸如內衣或是塑身衣。然而,將圓編針織布用於製造貼身衣物產品時,布料的觸感、彈性以及穿著舒適度相當重要。為了考量穿著的舒適性,圓編針織布產品比須具有適當的彈性,但是增加圓編針織布產品中彈性紗線的比例會造成產品的親膚性下降。 The double-sided cloth (INTERLOCK) in the circular knitted fabric is formed of at least two layers of fabric units, and the front and back sides of the double-sided cloth are straight stripes of a strip. The double-sided cloth has less elasticity than the rib cloth and is less deformed, and thus can be suitably applied to manufacture a garment having a molding function such as an underwear or a corset. However, when a circular knitted fabric is used for the production of intimate clothing, the touch, elasticity, and wearing comfort of the fabric are important. In order to consider the comfort of wearing, the woven fabric has a suitable elasticity, but increasing the proportion of the elastic yarn in the woven fabric will cause the skin to be reduced.
除此之外,在雙面布的製造過程中,各個製造步驟的詳細參數也會大幅影響產品的布料特性。因此,現有技術中有關雙面針織布的結構以及其製造方法與製造系統還具有改善空間。 In addition, in the manufacturing process of the double-sided cloth, the detailed parameters of each manufacturing step will greatly affect the fabric characteristics of the product. Therefore, there is still room for improvement in the prior art relating to the structure of the double-knit fabric and the manufacturing method and manufacturing system thereof.
本發明所要解決的技術問題在於,針對現有技術的不足提供一種雙面圓編彈性織品,其通過結構設計、材料的選用以及製造方法的步驟中的參數設定,可以具備優異的彈性回復率以及良好的觸感。 The technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a double-sided circular elastic fabric which has excellent elastic recovery rate and good performance through structural design, material selection and parameter setting in the steps of the manufacturing method. Touch.
為了解決上述的技術問題,本發明所採用的其中一技術方案是,提供一種雙面圓編彈性織品,其包括一表層結構、一底層結構以及設置於所述表層結構與所述底層結構之間的一中間結構。所述表層結構包括一反平紋織段,所述底層結構包括一正平紋織段,且所述中間結構包括一用以連接所述反平紋織段與所述正平紋織段的互鎖式掛針織段。 In order to solve the above technical problem, one of the technical solutions adopted by the present invention is to provide a double-sided circular elastic fabric comprising a surface layer structure, a bottom layer structure, and disposed between the surface layer structure and the bottom layer structure. An intermediate structure. The skin structure includes an anti-plain weave, the bottom structure includes a plain weave segment, and the intermediate structure includes an interlocking hanging knit segment for joining the anti-plain weave and the regular weave segment .
為了解決上述的技術問題,本發明所採用的另外一技術方案是,提供一種製造系統,所述製造系統用於製造如上所述的雙面圓編彈性織品,所述製造系統包括一織布裝置以及一染整裝置。所述織布裝置包括一雙面圓編機,用以將所述第一彈性紗線、所述第二彈性紗線以及所述非彈性紗線彼此交織而織造成所述雙面圓編彈性織物。所述染整裝置包括一染整管路,所述染整管路用以接收來自所述織布裝置的所述雙面圓編彈性織物。所述織布裝置與所述染整裝置設置於一生產線上。 In order to solve the above technical problems, another technical solution adopted by the present invention is to provide a manufacturing system for manufacturing a double-sided circular elastic fabric as described above, the manufacturing system including a weaving device And a dyeing and finishing device. The weaving device comprises a double-sided circular knitting machine for interweaving the first elastic yarn, the second elastic yarn and the non-elastic yarn to each other to form the double-sided circular knitting elasticity Fabric. The dyeing and finishing apparatus includes a dyeing and finishing line for receiving the double-sided circular braided elastic fabric from the weaving device. The weaving device and the dyeing and finishing device are disposed on a production line.
為了解決上述的技術問題,本發明所採用的另外再一技術方案是,提供一種雙面圓編彈性織品的製造方法,其包括:將至少一非彈性紗線與至少一彈性紗線導入一雙面圓編機;所述非彈性紗線與所述彈性紗線通過所述雙面圓編機以彼此交織而織造成一雙面圓編彈性織物;將所述雙面圓編彈性織物送入一染整裝置 中;以及通過所述染整裝置對所述雙面圓編彈性織物進行染整。 In order to solve the above technical problem, another technical solution adopted by the present invention is to provide a method for manufacturing a double-sided circular elastic fabric, which comprises: introducing at least one non-elastic yarn and at least one elastic yarn into a pair. a circular knitting machine; the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn are interwoven with each other by the double-sided circular knitting machine to form a double-sided circular elastic fabric; and the double-sided circular elastic fabric is fed into In a dyeing apparatus; and dyeing the double-sided circular braided elastic fabric by the dyeing and finishing apparatus.
本發明的有益效果在於,本發明技術方案所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品及其製造系統與製造方法,其能通過“中間結構包括一用以連接所述反平紋織段與所述正平紋織段的互鎖式掛針織段”或者“將所述第一彈性紗線、所述第二彈性紗線以及所述非彈性紗線彼此交織而織造成所述雙面圓編彈性織物,且所述非彈性紗線與所述彈性紗線通過所述雙面圓編機以彼此交織而織造成一雙面圓編彈性織物”的技術特徵,以提升雙面圓編彈性織品的彈性回復率以及觸感。 The invention has the beneficial effects of the double-sided circular braided elastic fabric and the manufacturing system and the manufacturing method thereof provided by the technical solution of the present invention, which can comprise, by the "intermediate structure, a joint for joining the anti-plain weave and the plain weave. Interlaced hanging knit section of the segment" or "interlacing the first elastic yarn, the second elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn with each other to fabricate the double-sided circular elastic fabric, and The non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn are woven into each other by the double-sided circular knitting machine to form a double-sided circular elastic fabric" to improve the elastic recovery rate of the double-sided circular elastic fabric and Touch.
為使能更進一步瞭解本發明的特徵及技術內容,請參閱以下有關本發明的詳細說明與附圖,然而所提供的附圖僅用於提供參考與說明,並非用來對本發明加以限制。 For a better understanding of the features and technical aspects of the present invention, reference should be made to the accompanying drawings.
F‧‧‧雙面圓編彈性織品 F‧‧‧double-sided circular elastic fabric
T‧‧‧雙面圓編彈性織物 T‧‧‧ double-sided circular elastic fabric
1‧‧‧表層結構 1‧‧‧ surface structure
11‧‧‧反平紋織段 11‧‧‧Anti-plain weave
2‧‧‧底層結構 2‧‧‧Underground structure
21‧‧‧正平紋織段 21‧‧‧Positive weave
3‧‧‧中間結構 3‧‧‧Intermediate structure
31‧‧‧互鎖式掛針織段 31‧‧‧Interlocking hanging knitting section
L‧‧‧紗環 L‧‧ yarn ring
S‧‧‧製造系統 S‧‧‧ Manufacturing System
41‧‧‧織布裝置 41‧‧‧Weaving device
411,411a~411f‧‧‧喂紗單元 411,411a~411f‧‧‧feeding unit
4111‧‧‧喂紗棒 4111‧‧‧feeding rod
4112‧‧‧入紗口 4112‧‧‧ yarn feeder
4113,4114‧‧‧喂紗嘴 4113, 4114‧‧‧ feeding yarn feeder
Y1,Y2‧‧‧紗線 Y1, Y2‧‧ yarn
D‧‧‧移動方向 D‧‧‧ moving direction
θ1‧‧‧入紗角度 θ1‧‧‧Inlet angle
θ2‧‧‧進紗角度 Θ2‧‧‧feed angle
42,42’‧‧‧染整裝置 42,42'‧‧‧Dyeing and finishing device
421,421’‧‧‧染整管路 421,421'‧‧‧Dyeing and finishing pipeline
422,422’‧‧‧熱膠換器 422,422'‧‧‧Hot glue changer
423,423’‧‧‧儲液槽 423,423'‧‧‧ liquid storage tank
424,424’‧‧‧絞盤 424,424’‧‧‧ winches
425,425’‧‧‧窗口 425, 425’ ‧ ‧ window
426’‧‧‧噴嘴 426’‧‧·Nozzle
圖1為本發明其中一實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品的結構示意圖;圖2為本發明其中一實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品的底層結構的顯微照片;圖3為本發明其中一實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品的表層結構的顯微照片;圖4為本發明其中一實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品的側面顯微照片;圖5為圖4的局部放大圖;圖6為本發明其中一實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品的顯微照片;圖7為圖6的局部放大圖;圖8為本發明其中一實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品的製造系統的方塊圖;圖9為本發明其中一實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品的製造系 統中的喂紗單元的結構示意圖;圖10為本發明其中一實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品的製造系統中的染整裝置的結構示意圖;圖11為本發明另一實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品的製造系統中的染整裝置的結構示意圖;圖12為本發明其中一實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品的製造方法的流程圖;以及圖13為本發明其中一實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品的製造方法中所使用的織造方法的組織圖。 1 is a schematic structural view of a double-sided circular elastic fabric provided by one embodiment of the present invention; FIG. 2 is a photomicrograph of a bottom structure of a double-sided circular elastic fabric provided by one embodiment of the present invention; A micrograph of the surface structure of the double-sided circular elastic fabric provided by one embodiment of the present invention; FIG. 4 is a side photomicrograph of the double-sided circular elastic fabric provided by one embodiment of the present invention; 4 is a partial enlarged view of the double-sided circular elastic fabric provided by one embodiment of the present invention; FIG. 7 is a partial enlarged view of FIG. 6; FIG. 8 is an embodiment of the present invention. A block diagram of a manufacturing system for a double-sided circular elastic fabric; FIG. 9 is a schematic structural view of a yarn feeding unit in a manufacturing system of a double-sided circular elastic fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention; A schematic structural view of a dyeing and finishing apparatus in a manufacturing system of a double-sided circular elastic fabric provided by one embodiment; FIG. 11 is a dyeing process in a manufacturing system of a double-sided circular elastic fabric according to another embodiment of the present invention; Knot of the whole device 12 is a flow chart of a method for manufacturing a double-sided circular knitted elastic fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention; and FIG. 13 is a manufacturing method of a double-sided circular knitted elastic fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention. The organization diagram of the weaving method used in the process.
以下是通過特定的具體實施例來說明本發明所公開有關“雙面圓編彈性織品及其製造系統與製造方法”的實施方式,本領域技術人員可由本說明書所公開的內容瞭解本發明的優點與效果。本發明可通過其他不同的具體實施例加以施行或應用,本說明書中的各項細節也可基於不同觀點與應用,在不悖離本發明的精神下進行各種修飾與變更。另外,本發明的附圖僅為簡單示意說明,並非依實際尺寸的描繪,事先聲明。以下的實施方式將進一步詳細說明本發明的相關技術內容,但所公開的內容並非用以限制本發明的保護範圍。 The following is a description of an embodiment of the present invention relating to a "double-sided circular braided elastic fabric and its manufacturing system and manufacturing method" by a specific embodiment, and those skilled in the art can understand the advantages of the present invention from the contents disclosed in the specification. With the effect. The present invention may be carried out or applied in various other specific embodiments, and various modifications and changes can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. In addition, the drawings of the present invention are merely illustrative and are not intended to be stated in the actual size. The following embodiments will further explain the related technical content of the present invention, but the disclosure is not intended to limit the scope of the present invention.
首先,請參閱圖1至圖5。圖1為本發明其中一實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品的結構示意圖;而圖2至5為本發明其中一實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品的顯微照片。本發明其中一實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品其包括表層結構1、底層結構2以及設置於表層結構1與底層結構2之間的中間結構3。請參閱圖2至5,表層結構1包括反平紋織段11,底層結構2包括正平紋織段21,且中間結構3包括用以連接反平紋織段11與正平紋織段21的互鎖式掛針織段31。換句話說,雙面圓編彈性織品F是通過 具有不同織段(針織組織)的表層結構1、底層結構2以及中間結構3所形成。 First, please refer to Figures 1 to 5. 1 is a schematic structural view of a double-sided circular elastic fabric provided by one embodiment of the present invention; and FIGS. 2 to 5 are photomicrographs of a double-sided circular elastic fabric provided by one embodiment of the present invention. A double-sided circular elastic fabric provided by one embodiment of the present invention includes a surface structure 1, a bottom structure 2, and an intermediate structure 3 disposed between the surface structure 1 and the bottom structure 2. Referring to Figures 2 to 5, the surface structure 1 comprises an anti-plain weave 11, the bottom structure 2 comprises a regular weave segment 21, and the intermediate structure 3 comprises interlocking hanging knits for joining the anti-plain weave 11 to the regular weave segments 21. Paragraph 31. In other words, the double-faced circular elastic fabric F is formed by the surface layer structure 1, the underlying structure 2, and the intermediate structure 3 having different weave segments (knitted structure).
具體來說,雙面圓編彈性織品F的表層結構1以及底層結構3都包括有平紋織段(plain weave,又稱為平紋組織)。平紋織段是通過各經緯紗連續上下交錯組合而成。表層結構1以及底層結構3所包括的平紋織段的不同之處在於,通過不同的喂紗單元分別形成表層結構1以及底層結構3時,是以單上針盤吃紗、下針筒空針不吃紗而生成表層結構1的反平紋織段11,而以單下針筒吃紗、上針盤不吃紗而生成底層結構2的正平紋織段21。 Specifically, the surface structure 1 and the bottom structure 3 of the double-sided circular elastic fabric F both include a plain weave (also referred to as a plain weave). The plain weave section is formed by continuously connecting the warp and weft yarns in a continuous up-and-down manner. The surface structure 1 and the plain weave segment included in the bottom structure 3 are different in that when the surface layer structure 1 and the bottom layer structure 3 are respectively formed by different yarn feeding units, the yarn is eaten by the single upper needle plate and the empty needle needle of the lower needle tube. The anti-plain weave 11 of the surface structure 1 is produced without the yarn, and the plain weave 21 of the underlying structure 2 is produced by the single lower needle and the upper needle without the yarn.
另外,針對雙面圓編彈性織品F的中間結構3,其是通過與前段所述不同的喂紗單元將上針盤針與下針筒針所形成的兩組平紋織段(即反平紋織段11與正平紋織段21)彼此前後連結,進而形成雙面圓編彈性織品F。中間結構3所包括的互鎖式掛針織段31是通過掛針(tuck stich)織法而將兩組平紋織段前後連結。 In addition, for the intermediate structure 3 of the double-sided circular elastic fabric F, which is a pair of plain weave segments formed by the upper needle needle and the lower needle needle by a different yarn feeding unit as described in the preceding paragraph (ie, an anti-plain weave) 11 and the plain weave segments 21) are joined to each other back and forth to form a double-sided circular elastic fabric F. The interlocking hanging knit section 31 included in the intermediate structure 3 is a front-to-back connection of two sets of plain weave sections by a tuck stich weave.
具體來說,本發明所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品F為一種具有雙螺紋組織(interlock)的織品,其為羅紋結構(rib knit)的一種變化型。雙螺紋組織織品結構與一般的平紋針織布(jersey knit)不同之處在於雙面螺紋組織織品的正反面會具有相同的織紋。此種織品的厚度較厚實,且由於具有非常平滑的表面,其可以提供穿戴者優異的觸感和手感。 Specifically, the double-sided circular elastic fabric F provided by the present invention is a fabric having a double-threaded interlock, which is a variation of a rib knit. The double-threaded tissue structure differs from the conventional jersey knit in that the front and back sides of the double-sided threaded fabric have the same texture. Such a fabric is thicker in thickness and, because of its very smooth surface, provides an excellent touch and feel to the wearer.
接下來,請參閱圖6及圖7。圖6為本發明其中一實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品的顯微照片,而圖7為圖6的局部放大圖。如圖7所示,雙面圓編彈性織品F包括多個紗環L。在本發明中,多個紗環L各自具有介於0.01至0.05公分之間的直徑。 Next, please refer to FIG. 6 and FIG. 7. Figure 6 is a photomicrograph of a double-sided circular elastic fabric provided by one embodiment of the present invention, and Figure 7 is a partial enlarged view of Figure 6. As shown in FIG. 7, the double-sided circular elastic fabric F includes a plurality of yarn loops L. In the present invention, the plurality of yarn loops L each have a diameter of between 0.01 and 0.05 cm.
在本發明的實施例中,表層結構1的反平紋織段11與底層結構2的正平紋織段21都是由非彈性紗線與彈性紗線共同編織而成,且中間結構3的互鎖式掛針織段31是由彈性紗線編織而成。具體來說,用於織造表面結構1的反平紋織段11與底層結構2的 正平紋織段21的彈性紗線與用於織造中間結構3的互鎖式掛針織段31的彈性紗線可為相同或不同的材料。 In the embodiment of the present invention, the anti-plain weave 11 of the surface structure 1 and the plain weave segment 21 of the underlying structure 2 are both woven by the inelastic yarn and the elastic yarn, and the intermediate structure 3 is interlocked. The hanging knit section 31 is woven from an elastic yarn. Specifically, the elastic yarn for weaving the anti-plain weave 11 of the surface structure 1 and the plain weave 21 of the underlying structure 2 and the elastic yarn for the interlocking hanging knit section 31 for weaving the intermediate structure 3 may be Same or different materials.
換句話說,在本發明的實施例中,表層結構1的反平紋織段11與底層結構2的正平紋織段21都是由非彈性紗線與第一彈性紗線共同編織而成,且中間結構3的互鎖式掛針織段31是由第二彈性紗線編織而成。第一彈性紗線與第二彈性紗線是由相同或不同材料所形成。 In other words, in the embodiment of the present invention, the anti-plain weave 11 of the surface structure 1 and the plain weave segment 21 of the underlying structure 2 are both woven by the inelastic yarn and the first elastic yarn, and the middle The interlocking hanging knit section 31 of the structure 3 is woven from a second elastic yarn. The first elastic yarn and the second elastic yarn are formed of the same or different materials.
承上所述,非彈性紗線是尼龍(Nylon)、聚酯纖維、聚乳酸纖維、聚對苯二甲酸丙二醇酯(PET)纖維以及纖維素纖維之中的至少一種。彈性紗線是由斯潘得克斯彈力纖維(Spandex)、來克纖維(Lycra)、天然橡膠以及合成橡膠之中的至少一種所形成。舉例而言,在本發明的其中一個實施例中,是使用尼龍作為非彈性紗線,並使用來克纖維(Lycra)作為第一彈性紗線以及第二彈性紗線。非彈性紗線的條數(filament)也可以依據需求加以調整,舉例而言,在本發明的一個實施例中,是採用條數為12的PET纖維(30D/12F)來形成非彈性紗線。一般來說,紗線的條數越高,所製成的產品手感越佳。 As described above, the inelastic yarn is at least one of nylon (Nylon), polyester fiber, polylactic acid fiber, polytrimethylene terephthalate (PET) fiber, and cellulose fiber. The elastic yarn is formed of at least one of Spandex, Lycra, natural rubber, and synthetic rubber. For example, in one of the embodiments of the present invention, nylon is used as the non-elastic yarn, and the used fiber (Lycra) is used as the first elastic yarn and the second elastic yarn. The filament of the inelastic yarn can also be adjusted as needed. For example, in one embodiment of the invention, a strip of 12 PET fiber (30D/12F) is used to form the inelastic yarn. . In general, the higher the number of yarns, the better the feel of the finished product.
值得注意的是,為了使本發明所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品F具備優異的彈性回復率,除了選用上述所列的適當的纖維材料之外,還必須精確控制雙面圓編彈性織品F內彈性紗線以及非彈性紗線之間的重量比例。具體來說,彈性紗線的重量以及非彈性紗線的重量的比例介於4:6至8:2之間。更進一步來說,第一彈性紗線與第二彈性紗線兩者的重量總和以及非彈性紗線的重量的比例介於4:6至8:2之間。換句話說,非彈性紗線的重量比例為介於60%至20%之間,而彈性紗線的重量比例為介於40%至80%之間,兩者重量總和為100%。舉例而言,在本發明的其中一實施例中,是使用40重量%的非彈性紗線以及60重量%的彈性紗線來形成雙面圓編彈性織品F。 It is worth noting that in order to provide the double-sided circular elastic fabric F provided by the present invention with excellent elastic recovery rate, in addition to selecting the appropriate fiber materials listed above, it is necessary to precisely control the double-sided circular elastic fabric F. The ratio of the weight between the inner elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn. Specifically, the ratio of the weight of the elastic yarn to the weight of the non-elastic yarn is between 4:6 and 8:2. Further, the sum of the weight of both the first elastic yarn and the second elastic yarn and the weight of the inelastic yarn are between 4:6 and 8:2. In other words, the weight ratio of the inelastic yarn is between 60% and 20%, and the weight ratio of the elastic yarn is between 40% and 80%, and the sum of the two weights is 100%. For example, in one embodiment of the invention, 40% by weight of the inelastic yarn and 60% by weight of the elastic yarn are used to form the double-sided circular elastic fabric F.
詳細來說,在雙面圓編彈性織品F的製造過程中,若提高彈性紗線的重量比例,由其所製造而成的雙面圓編彈性織品F會具有較高的彈性。然而,較高含量的彈性紗線會使得產品的手感降低,即,非彈性紗線的材料(例如PET)具有橡膠手感,親膚性較低。因此,非彈性紗線的比例需要被精確調控,且因應紗線材料的比例,還可以選用相對應的製造方法步驟來生產雙面圓編彈性織品F,以獲得較佳的產品特性。 In detail, in the manufacturing process of the double-sided circular elastic fabric F, if the weight ratio of the elastic yarn is increased, the double-sided circular elastic fabric F manufactured therefrom has high elasticity. However, a higher content of the elastic yarn lowers the feel of the product, that is, the material of the non-elastic yarn (for example, PET) has a rubber hand and is less skin-friendly. Therefore, the proportion of the inelastic yarn needs to be precisely regulated, and in accordance with the ratio of the yarn material, the corresponding manufacturing method steps can also be used to produce the double-sided circular elastic fabric F to obtain better product characteristics.
除此之外,非彈性紗線的丹尼數介於20至40丹尼之間,且彈性紗線(包括第一彈性紗線以及第二彈性紗線)的丹尼數介於60至80丹尼之間。除了調整彈性紗線以及非彈性紗線的重量比例之外,這兩種材料的丹尼數與所製成的產品的手感以及彈性也有所關聯。舉例而言,在本發明的其中一實施例中,是使用30丹尼的非彈性紗線以及70丹尼的彈性紗線來形成雙面圓編彈性織品F。 In addition, the Danny number of the inelastic yarn is between 20 and 40 denier, and the elastic yarn (including the first elastic yarn and the second elastic yarn) has a Danny number between 60 and 80. Between Danny. In addition to adjusting the weight ratio of the elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn, the Danny number of the two materials is also related to the feel and elasticity of the finished product. For example, in one embodiment of the invention, 30 denier inelastic yarns and 70 denier elastic yarns are used to form a double-sided circular elastic fabric F.
另外,本發明實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品F是具有優異的彈性回復率。具體來說,雙面圓編彈性織品的經向彈性回復率以及緯向彈性回復率都是大於95%。通過精確控制材料的選用及其比例,以及製造過程中的織造方式以及染整步驟的參數,具有上述彈性回復率的雙面圓編彈性織品F可以良好地適用於貼身衣物產品中。 In addition, the double-sided circular elastic fabric F provided by the embodiment of the present invention has excellent elastic recovery. Specifically, the double-sided circular braided elastic fabric has a warp elastic recovery rate and a latitudinal elastic recovery ratio of more than 95%. By precisely controlling the selection of materials and their proportions, as well as the weaving method in the manufacturing process and the parameters of the dyeing and finishing step, the double-sided circular elastic fabric F having the above elastic recovery ratio can be suitably applied to the intimate clothing product.
有關雙面圓編彈性織品F的成品,除了具備有上述彈性回復率之外,其單位重量可以介於330克/碼至680克/碼之間。雙面圓編彈性織品F的幅寬則是可以介於116公分至152公分之間。當雙面圓編彈性織品F具有上述單位重量及/或幅寬時,可以獲得最佳的彈性回復率。 The finished product of the double-sided circular elastic fabric F may have a unit weight of between 330 g/yd and 680 g/y. in addition to the elastic recovery rate described above. The width of the double-sided circular elastic fabric F can be between 116 cm and 152 cm. When the double-sided circular elastic fabric F has the above unit weight and/or width, an optimum elastic recovery ratio can be obtained.
接下來,請參閱圖8。本發明另外提供一種製造系統,其是用於製造上述雙面圓編彈性織品F。製造系統S包括織布裝置41以及染整裝置42。織布裝置41與染整裝置42設置於同一生產線上。除了織布裝置41以及染整裝置43,製造系統S還可以另外包括紡 紗裝置(未顯示),用以提供織布裝置41所需的紗線材料。換句話說,可以通過紡紗裝置將不同材料的纖維製作成紗線,再將紗線送入織布裝置而編織成布。 Next, please refer to Figure 8. The present invention further provides a manufacturing system for manufacturing the above-described double-sided circular elastic fabric F. The manufacturing system S includes a weaving device 41 and a dyeing and finishing device 42. The weaving device 41 and the dyeing and finishing device 42 are disposed on the same production line. In addition to the weaving device 41 and the dyeing and finishing device 43, the manufacturing system S may additionally include a spinning device (not shown) for providing the yarn material required for the weaving device 41. In other words, fibers of different materials can be made into yarns by a spinning device, and the yarns can be fed into a weaving device to be woven into a cloth.
具體來說,織布裝置41包括雙面圓編機。雙面圓編機用以將紗線材料,即,彈性紗線以及非彈性紗線彼此交織而織造成雙面圓編彈性織物。如上所述,彈性紗線可以包括第一彈性紗線以及第二彈性紗線,而第一彈性紗線以及第二彈性紗線可以由相同或不同的材料所形成。用於織布裝置41中紗線的成分以及特性已於上述有關雙面圓編彈性織品F的內容所述。舉例而言,彈性紗線的重量與非彈性紗線的重量的比例介於4:6至8:2之間。其他有關紗線的細節再此不再次敘述。 Specifically, the weaving device 41 includes a double-sided circular knitting machine. A double-sided circular knitting machine is used to woven a yarn material, that is, an elastic yarn and an inelastic yarn, to each other to form a double-sided circular elastic fabric. As described above, the elastic yarn may include the first elastic yarn and the second elastic yarn, and the first elastic yarn and the second elastic yarn may be formed of the same or different materials. The composition and characteristics of the yarn used in the weaving device 41 have been described above in relation to the double-sided circular elastic fabric F. For example, the ratio of the weight of the elastic yarn to the weight of the non-elastic yarn is between 4:6 and 8:2. Other details about the yarn will not be described again.
本發明中的雙面圓編機可以使用商用雙面圓編機的架構,並且對於其結構以及操作參數進行改良。一般而言,雙面圓編機可以包括馬達以及傳送機構、送紗機構、儲紗單元、喂紗單元、織造單元以及捲布機構等基本裝置元件。雙面圓編機的各個基板裝置元件的功能對於本領域具有通常知識者是熟知的,因此在此不詳細敘述。 The double-sided circular knitting machine of the present invention can use the structure of a commercial double-sided circular knitting machine and is improved in its structure and operating parameters. In general, the double-sided circular knitting machine may include basic components such as a motor and a conveying mechanism, a yarn feeding mechanism, a yarn storage unit, a yarn feeding unit, a weaving unit, and a winding mechanism. The function of the various substrate device components of the double-sided circular knitting machine is well known to those of ordinary skill in the art and will therefore not be described in detail herein.
在織造過程中,送紗機構帶動除紗單元,以將紗線送至喂紗單元中,而喂紗單元提供紗線固定的行進角度而將紗線喂入織造單元。織造單元則包括針筒與織針,織針安插於針筒表面的溝槽中,並通過三角座(Cam box)中的各式三角片(Cam)來控制針織過程而形成紗環。在雙面圓編機的基本裝置元件中,本發明特別針對喂紗單元中的操作參數進行調整。 During the weaving process, the yarn feeding mechanism drives the yarn removing unit to feed the yarn into the yarn feeding unit, and the yarn feeding unit supplies the yarn at a fixed angle of travel to feed the yarn into the weaving unit. The weaving unit comprises a needle barrel and a knitting needle which is inserted into a groove in the surface of the barrel and controls the knitting process to form a loop by various cams (Cam) in a cam box. In the basic device components of a double-sided circular knitting machine, the invention is specifically adapted to the operating parameters in the yarn feeding unit.
請參閱圖9。圖9為本發明其中一實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品的製造系統中的喂紗單元411的結構示意圖。詳細而言,雙面圓編機包括喂紗單元411,所述喂紗單元411具有喂紗棒4111、入紗口4112以及喂紗嘴4113、4114。由不同材料所形成的紗線Y1、Y2,例如,非彈性紗線及第一彈性紗線與第二彈性紗線 的其中一者是以介於10至45度之間的入紗角度θ1通過入紗口4112,且以介於15至45度之間的進紗角度θ2進入喂紗嘴4113、4114。 Please refer to Figure 9. FIG. 9 is a schematic structural view of a yarn feeding unit 411 in a manufacturing system of a double-sided circular elastic fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention. In detail, the double-sided circular knitting machine includes a yarn feeding unit 411 having a yarn feeding rod 4111, a yarn feeding port 4112, and yarn feeding nozzles 4113 and 4114. The yarns Y1, Y2 formed of different materials, for example, the non-elastic yarn and one of the first elastic yarn and the second elastic yarn are passed at an incoming yarn angle θ1 of between 10 and 45 degrees. The yarn feeder 4112 enters the yarn feeding nozzles 4113, 4114 at a yarn feeding angle θ2 of between 15 and 45 degrees.
如圖9所示,在本發明實施例中,入紗口4112的入紗角度θ1是指紗線Y1通過入紗口4112時與水平面(虛線表示)所夾的夾角,而喂紗嘴4113的進紗角度θ2是指紗線Y1通過喂紗嘴4113時與水平面所夾的夾角。對於紗線Y2,也可以採用如前所述的入紗角度θ1以及進紗角度θ2。針對紗線Y2,圖9僅繪示出餵紗嘴4114。舉例而言,在本發明中,紗線Y1為聚酯(polyester)纖維,而紗線Y2為彈性紗。調整紗線Y1、Y2的任一者,甚至是兩者的入紗角度θ1以及進紗角度θ2在上述特定範圍,可以獲得具有優異特性的布料。具體來說,在選用具有特定重量比例的非彈性紗線與彈性紗線來織造雙面圓編彈性織物時,將入紗角度θ1與進紗角度θ2調整在上述適當範圍(即,入紗角度θ1介於10至45度之間,進紗角度θ2介於15至45之間),可以使得所製成的雙面圓編彈性織品F兼顧彈性回復率以及手感。 As shown in FIG. 9, in the embodiment of the present invention, the yarn entrance angle θ1 of the yarn inlet port 4112 refers to the angle between the yarn Y1 passing through the yarn inlet port 4112 and the horizontal plane (indicated by the broken line), and the yarn feeding nozzle 4113 The yarn feeding angle θ2 is an angle between the yarn Y1 and the horizontal plane when the yarn Y1 passes through the yarn feeding nozzle 4113. For the yarn Y2, the yarn entry angle θ1 and the yarn feed angle θ2 as described above can also be used. For the yarn Y2, only the yarn feeder 4114 is illustrated in FIG. For example, in the present invention, the yarn Y1 is a polyester fiber, and the yarn Y2 is an elastic yarn. Any one of the yarns Y1 and Y2 is adjusted, and even the yarn entry angle θ1 and the yarn feed angle θ2 of the both are in the above specific range, and a cloth having excellent characteristics can be obtained. Specifically, when the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn having a specific weight ratio are selected to weave the double-sided circular elastic fabric, the yarn entering angle θ1 and the yarn feeding angle θ2 are adjusted to the above-mentioned appropriate range (ie, the yarn entering angle) Θ1 is between 10 and 45 degrees, and the yarn feeding angle θ2 is between 15 and 45), so that the double-sided circular elastic fabric F can be made to achieve both elastic recovery and hand feeling.
除此之外,在織造過程中,喂紗單元411的喂紗棒4111可以相對於雙面圓編機的中心(移動方向D)進行移動。喂紗棒4111相對於雙面圓編機的中心移動的範圍是介於10至50厘米(mm)之間。具體來說,本發明所提供的製造系統是通過設定入紗角度θ1、進紗角度θ2以及喂紗棒4111的前後移動範圍來調整由此所形成的雙面圓編彈性織品F的特性。舉例而言,上述參數的調整可以調整織品的布面平整度、紗環線圈的大小以及彈性。 In addition to this, during the weaving process, the yarn supplying rod 4111 of the yarn supplying unit 411 can be moved relative to the center (moving direction D) of the double-sided circular knitting machine. The range in which the yarn feeder 4111 moves relative to the center of the double-sided circular knitting machine is between 10 and 50 centimeters (mm). Specifically, the manufacturing system provided by the present invention adjusts the characteristics of the double-sided circular elastic fabric F thus formed by setting the yarn entry angle θ1, the yarn feed angle θ2, and the back-and-forth movement range of the yarn feeding rod 4111. For example, the adjustment of the above parameters can adjust the fabric flatness of the fabric, the size of the loop of the yarn loop, and the elasticity.
接下來,請再次參閱圖8,並配合圖10及11所示。圖10為本發明其中一實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品的製造系統中的染整裝置42的結構示意圖,而圖11為的另一實施例所使用的染整裝置42’的結構示意圖。請先參閱圖10,染整裝置42包括染整管路421,染整管路421用以接收來自織布裝置41的雙面圓編彈 性織物T。如圖10所示,染整裝置42還包括連接於染整管路421的熱交換器422、用於儲存染整用液體或助劑的儲液槽423、用於收捲雙面圓編彈性織物T的絞盤424以及窗口425。 Next, please refer to FIG. 8 again, and cooperate with FIG. 10 and FIG. 10 is a schematic structural view of a dyeing and finishing device 42 in a manufacturing system of a double-sided circular elastic fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. 11 is a structure of a dyeing and finishing device 42' used in another embodiment. schematic diagram. Referring first to Figure 10, the dyeing and finishing apparatus 42 includes a dyeing and finishing line 421 for receiving a double-sided circular braided fabric T from the weaving device 41. As shown in FIG. 10, the dyeing and finishing device 42 further includes a heat exchanger 422 connected to the dyeing and finishing line 421, a liquid storage tank 423 for storing the dyeing and finishing liquid or the auxiliary agent, and is used for winding double-sided circular knitting elasticity. Winch 424 of fabric T and window 425.
另外,在圖11所示的實施例中,染整裝置42’同樣包括染整管路421’、連接於染整管路421’的熱交換器422’、用於儲存染整用液體或助劑的儲液槽423’、用於收捲雙面圓編彈性織物T的絞盤424’以及窗口425’。與圖10所示的染整裝置42不同的是,圖11所示的染整裝置42’為下走式染色機。 In addition, in the embodiment shown in FIG. 11, the dyeing and finishing device 42' also includes a dyeing and finishing line 421', a heat exchanger 422' connected to the dyeing and finishing line 421', and a storage liquid for dyeing and finishing. The liquid storage tank 423', the winch 424' for winding the double-sided circular elastic fabric T, and the window 425'. Unlike the dyeing and finishing device 42 shown in Fig. 10, the dyeing and finishing device 42' shown in Fig. 11 is a lower-pass dyeing machine.
在本發明中,是使用高溫高壓染色機作為染整裝置42。更具體來說,本發明中所使用的染整裝置42是屬於緩流式(Soft-flow)染整機。此種染整機的特點在於其具有相當低的液體/織品比例(例如10:1),且可達到較高的處理溫度。除此之外,緩流式染整機具有較高的織物容量(capacity)且不易造成織物的起球現象(pilling effect)。 In the present invention, a high temperature and high pressure dyeing machine is used as the dyeing and finishing device 42. More specifically, the dyeing and finishing device 42 used in the present invention is a soft-flow dyeing and finishing machine. This dyeing machine is characterized by a relatively low liquid/fabric ratio (e.g., 10:1) and can achieve higher processing temperatures. In addition, the slow-flow dyeing machine has a high fabric capacity and is not easy to cause a pilling effect of the fabric.
本發明的染整裝置42的染整管路421是承載染整用水流與雙面圓編彈性織物T的圓筒染缸,圓筒染缸與多個設置在圓筒染缸周圍的水壓噴嘴(nozzles,例如圖11所示之噴嘴426’)相互配合。具體來說,為了來自雙面圓編機的雙面圓編彈性織物T在染整管路421內被傳送,噴染液體通過水壓噴嘴被提供至圓筒染缸內,並產生湍流(turbulence)。此機制使得染料可滲透於雙面圓編彈性織物T內部,並預防雙面圓編彈性織物T觸碰圓筒染缸的內壁。 The dyeing and finishing line 421 of the dyeing and finishing device 42 of the present invention is a cylinder dyeing cylinder for carrying the dyeing and finishing water flow and the double-sided circular elastic fabric T, the cylinder dyeing cylinder and a plurality of water pressure nozzles (nozzles arranged around the cylinder dyeing cylinder) For example, the nozzles 426' shown in Fig. 11 cooperate with each other. Specifically, in order to convey the double-sided circular elastic fabric T from the double-sided circular knitting machine in the dyeing and finishing line 421, the sprayed liquid is supplied into the cylinder dyeing cylinder through the water pressure nozzle, and turbulence is generated. . This mechanism allows the dye to penetrate the inside of the double-sided circular elastic fabric T and prevent the double-sided circular elastic fabric T from touching the inner wall of the cylinder dyeing cylinder.
在本發明實施例中,圓筒染缸具有介於4至10吋之間的管徑,且通過水壓噴嘴的參數設定,圓筒染缸中的染整用水流的水壓介於0.5bar至2bar之間。如前所述,在使用緩流式染整機時,織物會在染整用水流中流動以使染整用水流中所包括的染整材料(例如染劑)附著於織物上。然而,若染整用水流的水量以及水壓控制不當,織物會發生纏繞(entanglement)的情形而大幅影響產品的特性。 In the embodiment of the present invention, the cylinder dyeing cylinder has a diameter of between 4 and 10 ,, and the water pressure of the dyeing and finishing water in the cylinder dyeing cylinder is between 0.5 and 2 bar by the parameter setting of the water pressure nozzle. between. As previously mentioned, when a slow flow dyeing machine is used, the fabric flows in the dyeing water stream to adhere the dyeing material (e.g., dye) included in the dyeing water stream to the fabric. However, if the amount of water in the dyeing water flow and the water pressure are not properly controlled, the fabric may undergo entanglement and greatly affect the characteristics of the product.
本發明的其中一個目的在於獲得具有優異彈性回復率的雙面圓編彈性織品F。因此,除了選用適當的紗線材料以及採用適當的織造方法之外,還可以進一步將圓筒染缸的管徑控制在特定範圍,以及控制染整用水流的水壓。具體來說,圓筒染缸的管徑在介於4至10吋之間,相較於現有技術所使用的緩流式染整機的染缸的直徑,本發明的管徑增加了約一倍。如此一來,可以使其中所承載的雙面圓編彈性織物T在染整水流中充分伸展及捲動,而避免發生纏繞或是糾結的情形,而影響成品的彈性回復率。 One of the objects of the present invention is to obtain a double-sided circular elastic fabric F having excellent elastic recovery. Therefore, in addition to the selection of appropriate yarn materials and the use of appropriate weaving methods, it is possible to further control the diameter of the cylinder dyeing cylinder to a specific range and to control the water pressure of the dyeing and finishing water flow. Specifically, the diameter of the cylinder dyeing cylinder is between 4 and 10 Torr, and the diameter of the tube of the present invention is approximately doubled compared to the diameter of the dyeing cylinder of the slow-flow dyeing machine used in the prior art. In this way, the double-sided circular elastic fabric T carried therein can be fully stretched and rolled in the dyeing and finishing water flow to avoid the occurrence of entanglement or entanglement, and affect the elastic recovery rate of the finished product.
除此之外,相較於現有技術所使用的水壓,本發明時將水壓降低至傳統水壓的10至50%左右,即,將水壓控制在介於0.5bar至2bar之間。採用上述圓筒染缸的管徑以及染整用水流的水壓範圍,可以使得在製造較厚、密度較高的織物時,有效避免織物糾結的現象。 In addition to this, the water pressure is reduced to about 10 to 50% of the conventional water pressure, i.e., the water pressure is controlled to be between 0.5 and 2 bar, compared to the water pressure used in the prior art. By adopting the above-mentioned cylinder dyeing cylinder diameter and the water pressure range of the dyeing and finishing water flow, it is possible to effectively avoid the entanglement of the fabric when manufacturing a thicker and denser fabric.
接下來,請參閱圖12,圖12為本發明其中一實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品的製造方法的流程圖。本發明還提供一種雙面圓編彈性織品F的製造方法。如圖12所示,製造方法至少包括下列步驟:將至少一非彈性紗線與至少一彈性紗線導入雙面圓編機(步驟S100);非彈性紗線與彈性紗線通過雙面圓編機以彼此交織而織造成雙面圓編彈性織物(步驟S102);將雙面圓編彈性織物送入染整裝置中(步驟S104);以及通過染整裝置對雙面圓編彈性織物進行染整(步驟S106)。 Next, please refer to FIG. 12, which is a flow chart of a method for manufacturing a double-sided circular elastic fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention. The present invention also provides a method of manufacturing a double-sided circular braided elastic fabric F. As shown in FIG. 12, the manufacturing method includes at least the following steps: introducing at least one non-elastic yarn and at least one elastic yarn into a double-sided circular knitting machine (step S100); and inelastic yarn and elastic yarn passing through double-sided circular knitting The machine is woven into each other to form a double-sided circular elastic fabric (step S102); the double-sided circular elastic fabric is fed into the dyeing and finishing device (step S104); and the double-sided circular elastic fabric is dyed by the dyeing and finishing device Whole (step S106).
具體來說,本發明所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品的製造方法可以使用上述製造系統S來進行,且產品可以是前述雙面圓編彈性織品F。因此,有關製造方法中所使用的製造設備(製造系統S)及其中操作參數,以及成品(雙面圓編彈性織品F)的特性以及紗線選用等細節不再次敘述。 Specifically, the manufacturing method of the double-sided circular elastic fabric provided by the present invention can be carried out using the above-described manufacturing system S, and the product can be the above-mentioned double-sided circular elastic fabric F. Therefore, details of the manufacturing equipment (manufacturing system S) used in the manufacturing method and the operating parameters thereof, as well as the characteristics of the finished product (double-sided circular elastic fabric F) and yarn selection are not described again.
接下來,請配合參閱圖13。圖13為本發明其中一實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品的製造方法中所使用的織造方法的組織 圖。具體來說,圖13顯示通過雙面圓編機來織造雙面圓編彈性織品F的織造方法。本發明所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品的製造方法中,雙面圓編機的喂紗單元411是包括依序排列的第一喂紗單元411a、第二喂紗單元411b、第三喂紗單元411c、第四喂紗單元411d、第五喂紗單元411e以及第六喂紗單元411f。每個喂紗單元(411a~411f)各自的結構如圖9所示。 Next, please refer to Figure 13. Figure 13 is a structural view of a weaving method used in a method of manufacturing a double-sided circular elastic fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention. Specifically, Fig. 13 shows a weaving method of weaving a double-sided circular elastic fabric F by a double-sided circular knitting machine. In the manufacturing method of the double-sided circular knitted elastic fabric provided by the present invention, the yarn feeding unit 411 of the double-sided circular knitting machine includes a first yarn supplying unit 411a, a second yarn supplying unit 411b, and a third yarn feeding which are sequentially arranged. The unit 411c, the fourth yarn supplying unit 411d, the fifth yarn supplying unit 411e, and the sixth yarn supplying unit 411f. The respective structures of each of the yarn feeding units (411a to 411f) are as shown in Fig. 9.
配合喂紗單元411的組件配置,在非彈性紗線與所述彈性紗線通過雙面圓編機以彼此交織而織造成雙面圓編彈性織物T的步驟(步驟S102)中還進一步包括:將至少一非彈性紗線以及第一彈性紗線兩者由第一喂紗單元411a與第四喂紗單元411d兩者導入雙面圓編機以分別形成反平紋織段;將至少一非彈性紗線以及第一彈性紗線兩者由第二喂紗單元411b以及第五喂紗單元411e兩者導入雙面圓編機以分別形成正平紋織段;以及將第二彈性紗線由第三喂紗單元411c以及第六喂紗單元411f兩者導入雙面圓編機以分別形成互鎖式掛針織段。另外,每個互鎖式掛針織段連結其中一反平紋織段以及其中一正平紋織段以形成三層組織單元。 In conjunction with the assembly configuration of the yarn feeding unit 411, the step of splicing the non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn into the double-sided circular elastic fabric T by the double-sided circular knitting machine to interweave with each other (step S102) further includes: Introducing at least one of the inelastic yarns and the first elastic yarns into the double-sided circular knitting machine from both the first yarn feeding unit 411a and the fourth yarn feeding unit 411d to form an anti-plain weave; respectively; at least one inelastic The yarn and the first elastic yarn are both introduced into the double-sided circular knitting machine by the second yarn-feeding unit 411b and the fifth yarn-feeding unit 411e to form a regular weave section, respectively; and the second elastic yarn is fed by the third Both the yarn unit 411c and the sixth yarn feeding unit 411f are introduced into a double-sided circular knitting machine to form an interlocking hanging knitting section, respectively. In addition, each of the interlocking hanging knit segments joins one of the anti-plain weave segments and one of the plain weave segments to form a three-layered tissue unit.
在圖8所示的實施例中,第一喂紗單元411a以及第四喂紗單元411d是導入相同的紗線,即非彈性紗線以及第一彈性紗線,而織造單元是以單上針盤吃紗生成反平紋織段、下針筒空針不吃紗的方式進行織造。第二喂紗單元411b以及第五喂紗單元411e同樣是都導入非彈性紗線以及第一彈性紗線,而織造單元是以下針筒吃紗生成正平紋織段、上針盤空針不吃紗的方式進行織造。第三喂紗單元411c以及第六喂紗單元411f則是將上針盤針以及下針筒針的兩組平紋織段(分別為反平紋織段以及正平紋織段)前後連結。在通過上述方式織造雙面圓編彈性織物T後,經過上述染整裝置42的處理,可以生產雙面圓編彈性織品F。 In the embodiment shown in FIG. 8, the first yarn supplying unit 411a and the fourth yarn supplying unit 411d are introduced into the same yarn, that is, the non-elastic yarn and the first elastic yarn, and the weaving unit is a single needle. Weaving the yarn to produce an anti-plain weave, and the lower needle is not woven by the empty needle. The second yarn feeding unit 411b and the fifth yarn feeding unit 411e are both introduced with the non-elastic yarn and the first elastic yarn, and the weaving unit is the following syringe to produce the plain weave segment, the upper needle tray and the empty needle do not eat the yarn. The way to weave. The third yarn feeding unit 411c and the sixth yarn feeding unit 411f are connected to each other by two sets of plain weaves (the anti-plain weave and the plain weave), respectively, of the upper dial needle and the lower needle. After the double-sided circular elastic fabric T is woven by the above-described method, the double-sided circular elastic fabric F can be produced by the above-described dyeing and finishing apparatus 42.
換句話說,在本發明所提供的製造方法中,是以六個喂紗單元(411a~411f)一組來進行一個完整的織造步驟,進而形成本發明 的雙面圓編彈性織品F的表層結構1、底層結構2以及中間結構3。本發明所提供的製造方法配合其中的步驟以及選用的紗線的種類,可以使所製成的雙面圓編彈性織品F具有布面平滑、緊實並具備優良的彈性回復率。除此之外,通過選用不同的紗線材料來導入至喂紗單元411中,可以生產不同的雙面圓編彈性織品F產品,使得產品的種類更加多元化或是具備不同的功能性。 In other words, in the manufacturing method provided by the present invention, a complete weaving step is performed in a group of six yarn feeding units (411a to 411f) to form the surface layer of the double-sided circular elastic fabric F of the present invention. Structure 1, understructure 2, and intermediate structure 3. The manufacturing method provided by the present invention, in combination with the steps therein and the type of yarn selected, can make the double-sided circular elastic fabric F having a smooth, compact fabric and excellent elastic recovery. In addition, by selecting different yarn materials to be introduced into the yarn feeding unit 411, different double-sided circular elastic fabric F products can be produced, which makes the product variety more diverse or has different functions.
有關本發明的雙面圓編彈性織品F的結構及組成設計、用於雙面圓編彈性織品F的製造系統以及製造方法,可以使得雙面圓編彈性織品F具有優異的特性。舉例而言,以ASTM D4964來量測雙面圓編彈性織品F的彈性回復率,可以測得大於95%的彈性回復率檢測結果。 The structure and composition design of the double-sided circular elastic fabric F of the present invention, the manufacturing system for the double-sided circular elastic fabric F, and the manufacturing method can make the double-sided circular elastic fabric F have excellent characteristics. For example, the elastic recovery rate of the double-sided circular elastic fabric F is measured by ASTM D4964, and the elastic recovery rate detection result of more than 95% can be measured.
詳細來說,經測試的樣品為使用30丹尼/12F的PET材料作為非彈性紗線,並使用70丹尼的來克纖維(Lycra)作為彈性紗線,且非彈性紗線的重量與彈性紗線的重量為40:60。另外,樣品的長度為56吋,重量為394g/y。使用的測量機台為Zwick/Roell Z005。經過測試,此雙面圓編彈性織品F的經向彈性回復率為96.95%。另外,對同樣的雙面圓編彈性織品F的緯向(寬度方向)進行測試,測試結果顯示97.69%的彈性回復率。 In detail, the tested samples were made of 30 denier/12F PET material as the inelastic yarn, and 70 denier's Lycra as the elastic yarn, and the weight and elasticity of the inelastic yarn. The weight of the yarn is 40:60. In addition, the sample had a length of 56 吋 and a weight of 394 g/y. The measuring machine used was Zwick/Roell Z005. After testing, the double-sided circular elastic fabric F has a warp elastic recovery rate of 96.95%. Further, the weft direction (width direction) of the same double-sided circular elastic fabric F was tested, and the test result showed an elastic recovery rate of 97.69%.
本發明的有益效果在於,本發明實施例所提供的雙面圓編彈性織品F以及其製造系統S及方法,其能通過其結構設計,例如,“中間結構3包括用以連接反平紋織段與正平紋織段的互鎖式掛針織段”的技術特徵,以及其製造系統以及方法的設計,例如“將第一彈性紗線、第二彈性紗線以及非彈性紗線彼此交織而織造成雙面圓編彈性織物T”及“非彈性紗線與彈性紗線通過雙面圓編機以彼此交織而織造成雙面圓編彈性織物T”的技術特徵,以提升雙面圓編彈性織品F的彈性回復率以及觸感。 The invention has the beneficial effects of the double-sided circular elastic fabric F and the manufacturing system S and the method thereof provided by the embodiments of the present invention, which can be designed by the structure thereof, for example, "the intermediate structure 3 includes a fabric for connecting the anti-plain weave. Technical features of interlocking hanging knit segments with regular weave segments, and designs of manufacturing systems and methods thereof, such as "interlacing first elastic yarns, second elastic yarns, and inelastic yarns to each other to form a double The face-round elastic fabric T" and the "non-elastic yarn and the elastic yarn are interwoven with each other by a double-sided circular knitting machine to form a double-sided circular elastic fabric T" to enhance the double-sided circular elastic fabric F The elastic recovery rate and the tactile sensation.
以上所公開的內容僅為本發明的優選可行實施例,並非因此侷限本發明的申請專利範圍,所以凡是運用本發明說明書及附圖內容所做的等效技術變化,均包含於本發明的申請專利範圍內。 The above disclosure is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and is not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Therefore, any equivalent technical changes made by using the present specification and the contents of the drawings are included in the application of the present invention. Within the scope of the patent.
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