KR20190023477A - Method of Producing High Dencity Knit Having Excellent Dimensional Stability - Google Patents

Method of Producing High Dencity Knit Having Excellent Dimensional Stability Download PDF

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KR20190023477A
KR20190023477A KR1020170109301A KR20170109301A KR20190023477A KR 20190023477 A KR20190023477 A KR 20190023477A KR 1020170109301 A KR1020170109301 A KR 1020170109301A KR 20170109301 A KR20170109301 A KR 20170109301A KR 20190023477 A KR20190023477 A KR 20190023477A
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yarn
polyester
knitted fabric
present
density
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KR1020170109301A
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Korean (ko)
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KR101957035B1 (en
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이상용
박경순
윤영수
김금서
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(주)텍스밀
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B9/00—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles
    • D04B9/06—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles with needle cylinder and dial for ribbed goods
    • D04B9/08—Circular knitting machines with independently-movable needles with needle cylinder and dial for ribbed goods for interlock goods

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for producing a high-density circular knitted fabric excellent in shape stability, wherein the method prevents a fabric from being deformed into an elongated form due to a problem of loop length and elastic recovery force, when knitting a filament yarn or a fine yarn at a high density; and prevents needle holes, course mark, thread cutting and knitted fabric defects caused by breakage of needles. The present invention provides a polyester yarn and a spandex monofilament in a ratio of 1:1 to 2:1.

Description

형태안정성이 우수한 고밀도환편물의 제조방법{Method of Producing High Dencity Knit Having Excellent Dimensional Stability}BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention [0001] The present invention relates to a high-density circular knitted fabric having excellent dimensional stability,

본 발명은 세섬사인 필라멘트 원사를 고밀도로 편성함에 있어서 루프장 및 신축 회복력에 대한 문제로 인해 원단이 늘어난 형태로 변형되는 불량을 방지하며, 바늘구멍, 위단 발생, 절사 현상 및 바늘이 부러짐에 따른 편물 결점발생을 방지한 형태안정성이 우수한 고밀도환편물의 제조방법에 관한 것이다The present invention relates to a filament yarn for knitting a filament yarn, which is a three-sided yarn, at a high density, to prevent defects in which a fabric is deformed in an elongated form due to a problem of loop length and expansion and contraction recovery force, To a method of manufacturing a high-density circular knitted fabric excellent in shape stability preventing the occurrence of defects

최근 아웃도어용품의 수요 및 관심이 증가됨에 따라 다기능성을 가지는 아웃도어용 섬유제품이 다양하게 개발되고 있다. 이러한 아웃도어용 섬유제품에서 요구하는 신축성, 경량성, 통기성, 투습방수, 내구성의 성능을 겸비하는 복합 기능성 아웃도어 개발을 위한 다양한 연구가 진행되고 있으며, 그 일환으로 ①소재(세섬 이형이섬도 고강도 PET 기술), ②니트(고밀도 니트기술) 및 ③나노(친환경 나노 멤브레인 기술)의 융합 기술 개발이 진행되고 있다.2. Description of the Related Art [0002] With the recent increase in demand and interest in outdoor products, a variety of multi-functional outdoor textile products are being developed. Various researches are being conducted to develop a multi-functional outdoor that combines the performance of stretchable, lightweight, breathable, breathable, waterproof and durability required for outdoor textile products. As part of this research, ① materials (three- PET technology), ② knit (dense knit technology), and ③ nano (eco-friendly nano-membrane technology).

그 중에서도 직물대비 2배이상 신축성이 우수한 고밀도 니트기술에 관하여는 Among them, in regard to the high-density knit technology which is more than twice as flexible as the fabric

초경량이면서도 착용감이 우수하고 투습방수효과가 우수한 니트의 개발이 요구되고 있는 실정이나 고밀도 니트를 제조하기 위해서는 30데니어급의 세섬도 원사를 사용해야 하며 이 경우 인열강도가 취약하고,신축성이 약하여 착용감이 나쁜 문제점이 있었다. 또한, 세섬도원사로 편직시 육안으로도 심한 비침 현상이 발생하고 및 약한 힘에도 올이 나가는 running 현상이 심하게 나타나며, 가공 이후 코스(Couse) 방향으로 줄이 나타나는 위단 현상이 발생하는등 여러 가지 문제점이 발생되는 실정이었다.In order to manufacture a knit having excellent lightweight, excellent fit and moisture-permeability, it is necessary to use a yarn of 30 denier grade in order to manufacture a high-density knit. In this case, the tear strength is weak and the stretchability is weak. There was a bad problem. In addition, when the yarn is knitted with three filament yarns, there is a serious non-infiltration phenomenon even with the naked eye, and a running phenomenon in which the filament yarn runs to a weak force is severe, .

대한민국특허등록제10-1320488호(2013년10월29일 공고)Korean Patent Registration No. 10-1320488 (Notice of October 29, 2013)

그러므로 본 발명에 의하면 세섬도원사를 사용하여 고밀도 환편제품을 제조함에 있어서 루프장 및 신축 회복력에 대한 문제로 인해 원단이 늘어난 형태로 변형되는 불량을 방지하며, 바늘 구멍, 위단 발생, 절사 현상 및 바늘이 부러짐에 따른 편물 결점발생을 방지하여 형태안정성이 우수한 고밀도환편물을 제공하는 것을 기술적과제로 한다.Therefore, according to the present invention, in manufacturing a high-density circular knitted product by using a three-fineness yarn, it is possible to prevent defects in which the fabric is deformed into an elongated shape due to a problem of loop length and elastic recovery force, To provide a high-density circular knitted fabric excellent in shape stability by preventing the occurrence of knitted yarn defects due to breakage of the knitted fabric.

그러므로 본 발명에 의하면, 30~45d/24~72f 폴리에스테르사와 20~30d 스판덱스모노필라멘트를 1:1 ~ 2:1로 공급하여, 루프장 70~100㎜, 환편속도 10~15rpm의 조건으로 30인치/48게이지의 양면환편기로 양면인터록조직으로 환편한 것을 특징으로 하는 형태안정성이 우수한 고밀도환편물의 제조방법이 제공된다.Therefore, according to the present invention, polyester yarns of 30 to 45 d / 24 to 72 f and 20 to 30 d spandex monofilaments are fed at a ratio of 1: 1 to 2: 1, The present invention provides a method for producing a high-density circular knitted fabric excellent in shape stability, characterized in that the knitted fabric is turned into a double-sided interlock structure by a double-sided circular knitting machine of an inch / 48 gauge.

이하 본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명하기로 한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

본 발명은 세섬사인 필라멘트 30d급 원사를 48게이지로 고밀도로 편성함에 있어서 육안으로 심한 비침 현상이 발생하고 약한 힘에도 올이 나가는 running 현상이 나타나는 문제점을 해결하는 형태안정성이 우수한 고밀도환편물의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a high-density circular knitted fabric having excellent shape stability, which solves the problem that a filament 30d class yarn as a cemented yarn is knitted at a high density at 48 gauge, .

본 발명의 고밀도환편물의 제조방법에서 사용되는 원사는 30~45d/24~72f 폴리에스테르사와 20~30d 스판덱스모노필라멘트를 사용하는데, 30~45d/24~72f 폴리에스테르사와 20d 스판덱스모노필라멘트를 1:1 또는 2:1로 공급하여 편성하게 된다. The yarns used in the method of the present invention are 30 to 45 d / 24 to 72 f polyester yarns and 20 to 30 d spandex monofilament yarns, 30 to 45 d / 24 to 72 f polyester yarns and 20 d spandex monofilaments : 1 or 2: 1.

상기 폴리에스테르사는 폴리에스테르 DTY사 또는 폴리에스테르 ATY사인 것이 바람직하며, 30~45d/24~72f 폴리에스테르사와 20~30d 스판덱스모노필라멘트를 1:1~2:1로 공급하여 신축회복율 보완을 할 수 있으며, 루프장 및 신축 회복력에 대한 문제로 인해 원단이 늘어난 형태로 변형되는 불량을 방지할 수 있다.The polyester yarn is preferably polyester DTY yarn or polyester ATY yarn, and it is possible to supplement the expansion / contraction recovery ratio by supplying 30 to 45 d / 24 to 72f polyester yarn and 20 to 30 d spandex monofilament at a ratio of 1: 1 to 2: 1 And it is possible to prevent defects in which the fabric is deformed into an elongated shape due to a problem of loop length and elastic restoring force.

특히, 본 발명과 같이 고밀도로 편직을 진행시 폴리에스테르사가 앞면과 뒷면, 스판덱스사가 뒷면으로 위치하면서 규칙적으로 편성되어야 결점을 최소화할 수 있기 때문에 yarn carrier를 앞뒤로 조정하여 원사 인입 각도를 조절하고, yarn guide와 바늘 사이 0.3mm의 간격으로 하여야 편직시 원단의 불량이 생기지 않는다.In particular, when knitting at a high density as in the present invention, polyester yarns can be knitted regularly while the front, back, and spandex yarns are positioned on the back side so that defects can be minimized. Therefore, the yarn carrier angle is adjusted by adjusting the yarn carrier back and forth, The gap between the guide and the needle should be 0.3mm.

본 발명에서 환편하는 조건은 루프장 70~100㎜, 환편속도 15~16rpm의 조건으로 30인치/48게이지의 양면환편기로 양면인터록조직으로 환편한다. The conditions for circularity in the present invention are circular and double-sided interlocking with a 30-inch / 48-gauge double-sided circular knitting machine under conditions of a loop length of 70 to 100 mm and a circular speed of 15 to 16 rpm.

본 발명에서 루프장은 편물 제품 형성의 주요 요소로써 동일 조건하에서 루프장이 길수록 원단 밀도가 적어져 루즈(loose)해지고 단위면적당 중량이 낮아지며 원단폭은 넓어진다. 반대로 루프장이 짧을수록 밀도가 많아지며 원단은 타이트(tight)해지고 단위면적당 중량이 높아지며 원단폭이 좁아진다. 따라서 본 발명에서는 루프장을 70~100㎜로 조절하여 최적 편물 루프장을 선정하여 원단 올이 풀리지 않는 깨끗한 표면상태를 유지하도록 한다. 루프장 70㎜미만에서는 실린더와 다이얼간의 좁은 간격으로 루프형성이 어려워 바늘이 연달아 부러져 편직 자체가 불가할 수 있고, 100㎜초과시에서는 원단 비침이 심하고, 올이 나가는 running 현상 및 가공 이후 코스(Couse) 방향으로 줄이 나타나는 위단 현상이 발생할 우려가 있다. In the present invention, the loop length is a main component of knitted product formation. Under the same condition, the longer the loop length, the loose density becomes, loose, the weight per unit area decreases, and the fabric width becomes wider. Conversely, the shorter the loop length, the more dense, the fabric becomes tight, the weight per unit area increases, and the fabric width becomes narrower. Therefore, in the present invention, the loop length is adjusted to 70 to 100 mm to select the optimum knitted loop length, thereby maintaining a clean surface state in which the fabric is not loosened. When the loop length is less than 70 mm, it is difficult to form a loop at a narrow gap between the cylinder and the dial, so that the needle may break in succession and knitting itself may become ineffective. There is a possibility that a crossing phenomenon occurs in which a line appears in a direction.

상기 폴리에스테르사 및 스판덱스모노필라멘트는 사장력 3~5g으로 양면환편기에 공급되는 것이 바람직하다. 본 발명의 고밀도 환편제품은 상기와 같이 세섬사를 원사로 환편됨에 따라 원사 장력이 적합하지 않을 경우 스판덱스사만 절사되어 couse 방향으로 줄이 발생하는 불량이 빈번히 발생되므로 상기와 같이 사장력을 조절하여 정상적 루프를 생성하고 결점을 최소화하여 편직할 수 있어 바람직하다. 사장력 3g미만에서는 정상적 루프 생성이 되지 않아 바늘 구멍등의 결점이 발생하며, 5g초과시에는 편물에 위단이 발생하고, 큰 급사 장력으로 공급시 휠에서의 투입되는 장력과 바늘부분의 장력으로 인한 당김 현상으로 실이 터지는 절사 현상 및 바늘이 부러짐에 따라 편물 결점이 발생할 수 있다. The polyester yarn and the spandex monofilament are preferably supplied to the double-sided circular knitting machine at a bending force of 3 to 5 g. As described above, the high-density circular knitted product according to the present invention is defective when the yarn tension is inadequate due to the circular knitting of the three filaments as described above. Thus, defects in which the filaments are cut in the couse direction are frequently generated, It is preferable to form a normal loop and knit by minimizing defects. If the weight is less than 3 g, normal loops are not formed and defects such as needle holes are generated. When 5 g is exceeded, the weft is generated in the knitted fabric, and when a large sudden tension is applied, As a result of the development, yarn breakage phenomenon and needle breakage may cause knitted fabric defects.

본 발명의 편물의 안정적인 생산성 확보를 위해서는 공급되는 원사의 상기 장력뿐 아니라 최종 편물의 take-up 장력 균형 및 효율적인 편성 속도(rpm)등이 선정되어야 하는데, 편성속도는 15~16 rpm을 유지하여 환편하였으며, 최종 Take-up 장력은 원사의 섬도특성을 고려하여 30~35% 사이로 설정한다. In order to secure stable productivity of the knitted fabric of the present invention, take-up tension balance and effective knitting speed (rpm) of the final knitted fabric as well as the tension of the yarn to be fed must be selected. The knitting speed is maintained at 15 to 16 rpm, The final take-up tension is set between 30 and 35% considering the fineness of the yarn.

그러므로 본 발명에 의하면 세섬도원사를 사용하여 고밀도 환편제품을 제조함에 있어서 루프장 및 신축 회복력에 대한 문제로 인해 원단이 늘어난 형태로 변형되는 불량을 방지하며, 바늘 구멍, 위단 발생, 절사 현상 및 바늘이 부러짐에 따른 편물 결점발생을 방지하여 형태안정성이 우수한 고밀도환편물을 제공할 수 있으며, 캐쥬얼 의류 용도의 밀도(루프장) 확보 및 니트 소재가 가지는 장점인 신축성, 터치 등을 최대화 할 수 있다.Therefore, according to the present invention, in manufacturing a high-density circular knitted product by using a three-fineness yarn, it is possible to prevent defects in which the fabric is deformed into an elongated shape due to a problem of loop length and elastic recovery force, It is possible to provide a high-density circular knitted fabric having excellent shape stability by preventing the occurrence of a knitted fabric defect due to breakage of the knitted fabric, and it is possible to maximize the durability (loop length) for casual clothes and the elasticity and touch which are advantages of the knitted material.

도 1은 본 발명의 고밀도환편물인 실시예 4의 표면사진이다.1 is a photograph of a surface of Example 4 which is a high-density circular knitted fabric of the present invention.

다음의 실시예에서는 본 발명의 형태안정성이 우수한 고밀도환편물의 제조방법의 비한정적인 예시를 하고 있다.The following examples illustrate non-limiting examples of the method for producing a high-density circular knitted fabric excellent in shape stability of the present invention.

[실시예 1~5][Examples 1 to 5]

하기 표 1에 따라 폴리에스테르사와 스판덱스모노필라멘트를 사장력 4g으로 공급하여 루프장 80㎜, 환편속도 16rpm의 조건으로 30인치/48게이지(니들4512本)의 양면환편기(I3P 284-1 BW. TERROT사산(독일))로 양면인터록조직으로 중량 150g/sqm으로 환편하였다. 제조된 환편물의 물성을 측정하여 하기 표 1에 나타내었다.Polyester yarn and spandex monofilament were fed at a draft of 4 g in accordance with the following Table 1 and fed to a double-sided circular knitting machine (I3P 284-1 BW. TERROT) of 30 inch / 48 gauge (needle 4512) under conditions of a loop length of 80 mm and a circular speed of 16 rpm (Germany)) with a double-sided interlock structure and weighed at a weight of 150 g / sqm. The physical properties of the fabricated circular knitted fabric were measured and are shown in Table 1 below.

구분 division 인장강도 (N)Tensile strength (N) 인장신도 (%)Tensile elongation (%) 인열강도 (N)Tear strength (N) 신장회복율
(%)Renal recovery rate
(%) 웨일wale 코오스Coos 웨일wale 코오스Coos 웨일wale 코오스Coos 실시예 1Example 1 PET 30/24 + SPAN 20dPET 30/24 + SPAN 20d 3535 1515 87.487.4 254.3254.3 33.533.5 6.76.7 90 이상over 90 실시예 2Example 2 PET 30/36 + SPAN 20dPET 30/36 + SPAN 20d 3030 1515 106.9106.9 240.1240.1 32.132.1 8.98.9 90 이상over 90 실시예 3Example 3 DTY 30/48 + SPAN 20dDTY 30/48 + SPAN 20d 3131 1515 105.7105.7 264.0264.0 28.728.7 11.111.1 90 이상over 90 실시예 4Example 4 DTY 35/72 + SPAN 20dDTY 35/72 + SPAN 20d 2727 1616 130.6130.6 271.1271.1 23.923.9 11.611.6 90 이상over 90 실시예 5Example 5 DTY 30/48 + SPAN 20d(1/2)DTY 30/48 + SPAN 20d (1/2) 4343 1515 69.869.8 199.1199.1 37.337.3 11.511.5 90 이상over 90

인장강신도 - KS K 0642 : 2013 (편성물)그래브법 Tensile strength and strength - KS K 0642: 2013 (knitted fabric) Grab method

인열강도 - KS K ISO 13937-1 : 2009 (펜듈럼법)Tear strength - KS K ISO 13937-1: 2009 (Pendulum method)

신장회복율 - KK S 0352Renal recovery rate - KK S 0352

Claims (3)

30~45d/24~72f 폴리에스테르사와 20~30d 스판덱스모노필라멘트를 1:1 ~ 2:1로 공급하여, 루프장 70~100㎜, 환편속도 15~16rpm의 조건으로 30인치/48게이지의 양면환편기로 양면인터록조직으로 환편한 것을 특징으로 하는 형태안정성이 우수한 고밀도환편물의 제조방법. 30 to 45 d / 24 to 72 f polyester yarns and 20 to 30 d spandex monofilaments were fed in a ratio of 1: 1 to 2: 1 to obtain a yarn of 30 inches / 48 gauge on the condition of a loop length of 70 to 100 mm and a circular rate of 15 to 16 rpm Wherein the high-density circular knitted fabric has an excellent shape stability. 제 1항에 있어서,
상기 폴리에스테르사는 폴리에스테르DTY사 또는 폴리에스테르 ATY사인 것을 특징으로 하는 형태안정성이 우수한 고밀도환편물의 제조방법.The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the polyester yarn is a polyester DTY yarn or a polyester ATY yarn. 제 1항에 있어서,
상기 폴리에스테르사 및 스판덱스모노필라멘트는 사장력 3~5g으로 양면환편기에 공급되는 것을 특징으로 하는 형태안정성이 우수한 고밀도환편물의 제조방법.The method according to claim 1,
Wherein the polyester yarn and the spandex monofilament are fed to a double-sided circular knitting machine with a bending force of 3 to 5 g.
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KR102088139B1 (en) * 2019-09-18 2020-03-11 하헌주 Double-sided interlock circular knitting fabric containing elastic yarn on the back side only
KR20210078655A (en) * 2019-12-19 2021-06-29 신한대학교 산학협력단 Finer interlock knitted fabrics, test method for ladder characteristics of finer interlock knitted fabrics and test apparatus therefor
KR20220072305A (en) * 2020-11-25 2022-06-02 유준철 High Densty Multi Flex Textile and Maunfacturing Method Thereof

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