KR101120097B1 - Knitting method using nylon fiber and spandex fiber, and method for dyeing the kinitted fabric - Google Patents
Knitting method using nylon fiber and spandex fiber, and method for dyeing the kinitted fabric Download PDFInfo
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- KR101120097B1 KR101120097B1 KR1020110032707A KR20110032707A KR101120097B1 KR 101120097 B1 KR101120097 B1 KR 101120097B1 KR 1020110032707 A KR1020110032707 A KR 1020110032707A KR 20110032707 A KR20110032707 A KR 20110032707A KR 101120097 B1 KR101120097 B1 KR 101120097B1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D13/00—Professional, industrial or sporting protective garments, e.g. surgeons' gowns or garments protecting against blows or punches
- A41D13/0015—Sports garments other than provided for in groups A41D13/0007 - A41D13/088
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
- D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/02—Material containing basic nitrogen
- D06P3/04—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
- D06P3/10—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups using reactive dyes
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D2600/00—Uses of garments specially adapted for specific purposes
- A41D2600/10—Uses of garments specially adapted for specific purposes for sport activities
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2505/00—Industrial
- D10B2505/18—Outdoor fabrics, e.g. tents, tarpaulins
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2507/00—Sport; Military
Abstract
Description
본 발명은 나일론사를 이용한 고밀도 편직방법 및 그 편직물의 염색가공 방법에 관한 것으로서, 보다 상세하게는 흡한속건사, 중공사 및 극세사로 되는 나일론사와 스판덱스(고무)사를 사용하여 경량의 고기능성 방풍니트용 편직물을 제조하기 위한 편직방법 및 그 편직물의 염색가공 방법에 관한 것이다.
The present invention relates to a high-density knitting method using a nylon yarn and a dyeing processing method of the knitted fabric, and more specifically, lightweight high-performance windproof using nylon yarn and spandex (rubber) yarns made of sweat-absorbing fast-drying yarn, hollow fiber and microfiber yarn The present invention relates to a knitting method for producing a knit knitted fabric and a dyeing processing method of the knitted fabric.
최근 패션산업의 대표적인 키워드는 '캐주얼화'였으며, 이를 기반으로 하여 정장시장이 위축된 반면 캐주얼 시장은 지속적으로 성장하여 기능성, 고감성, 쾌적성을 최대한 살린 아웃도어 및 스포츠 웨어 시장이 급속히 성장하고 있다.Recently, the representative keyword of the fashion industry was 'casualization'. Based on this, the formal market contracted, while the casual market continued to grow, so that the outdoor and sportswear market, which maximized the functionality, high sensitivity, and comfort, grew rapidly. have.
초경량, 흡한속건, 투습방수의 고기능성 섬유소재 기술은 최근 웰빙 추구 및 스포츠, 레저를 즐기는 트랜드와 발맞추어 전체 섬유패션 시장에서의 차별화 전략으로 자리잡고 있다. Ultra-lightweight, sweat-absorbent quick-drying and breathable waterproof high-performance textile materials technology has recently become a differentiation strategy in the whole textile fashion market in line with the trend of pursuing well-being, sports and leisure.
스포츠 웨어는 다양한 기능성을 갖고 있으나. 시대에 따라, 분야에 따라 요구되는 기능은 여러 가지 형태로 나타나고 있으며, 대표적인 기능성은 흡한속건성, 경량성, 방풍성, 신축성, 통기성, 보호성 등이 있다. Sportswear has a lot of functionality. According to the times, the functions required by the field appear in various forms, and typical functionalities include quick-drying, light weight, windproof, elasticity, breathability, and protection.
고기능성의 원단 개발은 고부가가치화를 이룰 수 있어 기존의 고어텍스, 쉘러 등 선진국 업체가 주도해 온 아이템과 경쟁이 이루어지고 있으며 흡한 속건 이외에도 항균, 방취, 변색, 온도 적응 등 다양한 기능 표출과 나노기술의 적용이 최근 개발 추세로 자리 잡고 있다. 특히, 골프웨어의 경우 땀 흡수와 통기성 기능이 좋아 쾌적한 라운딩을 도와줄 수 있는 얇으면서 기능성이 뛰어난 이너웨어를 선호하며, 흡한 속건 기능이 보편화되면서 1g이라도 가벼운 제품을 소비자들이 선호하고 있는 추세이다.The development of highly functional fabrics can achieve high value-added products, which are competing with items that have been led by developed companies such as Gore-Tex and Sellers. Has become a recent development trend. In particular, golf wear prefers thin and functional innerwear which can help comfortable rounding because it has good sweat absorption and breathable function. Consumers prefer light products even at 1g as the quick drying function is popular.
생활수준의 향상에 따라 그 수요가 증가하고 있는 스포츠 웨어의 개발 및 상품화 추세를 보면 다양한 고기능성 원사를 이용한 '초경량성'과 '보온성'에 많은 제품 개발이 이루어지고 있으며, 이와 관련하여 니트 소재의 경우에는 직물 소재보다 니트 특유의 터치와 뛰어난 착용감으로 보다 편안한 기능성 소재로 적합하나 통기성에 의한 보온력 저하를 단점으로 가지고 있다. According to the trend of development and commercialization of sportswear that demand is increasing with the improvement of living standard, many products are developed in 'ultra lightness' and 'heat insulation' using various high functional yarns. In the case, it is suitable as a functional material that is more comfortable with knit's unique touch and excellent fit than the fabric material, but it has a disadvantage of lowering warmth by breathability.
이런 이유에서 니트 소재에 대한 흡한속건성, 경량성, 방풍성, 신축성 등 고기능성 부여를 위한 하이게이지 고밀도 편직기술 및 그 편직물의 염색가공기술의 개발을 통해 이런 문제점을 해결하고자 한다.
For this reason, the problem is to be solved through the development of high-gauge high-density knitting technology and dyeing processing technology of the knitted fabric to give high functionality, such as sweat-absorbent quick-drying, lightweight, windproof, stretchy.
따라서, 본 발명은 시장의 요구에 부응하고, 흡한속건성, 경량성, 방풍성, 신축성 등 고기능성 부여를 위하여 나일론 원사를 이용하며, 피부와 접촉하는 내피부를 나일론 흡한속건사가 위치하고, 외피쪽을 나일론 중공사 또는 극세사가 위치 하도록 하며, 환편기의 편직조건을 고밀도화 하여 하이게이지의 나일론사를 이용한 고밀도 편직방법 및 그 편직물에 대한 염색가공방법을 제공하는 것을 그 기술적 과제로 한다.
Therefore, the present invention meets the market demands, and uses nylon yarn for imparting high functionality such as sweat-absorbing quick drying, light weight, windproof, elasticity, nylon absorbing quick-drying yarn is placed in contact with the skin, and the outer skin is nylon hollow The technical problem is to provide a high-density knitting method using high-gauge nylon yarns and dyeing processing method of the knitted fabrics by positioning the yarn or microfiber yarn and densifying the knitting conditions of the circular knitting machine.
상기한 과제를 해결한 본 발명의 나일론사를 이용한 고밀도 편직방법은 외측면의 원사로 나일론 중공사 또는 극세사를 사용하고, 내측면의 밑사로 나일론 흡한속건사 및 스판덱스(고무)사를 사용하여 서로 다른 면을 형성하도록 위치시키며, The high-density knitting method using the nylon yarn of the present invention that solved the above problems is to use nylon hollow fiber or microfiber yarn as the yarn of the outer side, using a nylon absorbent quick-drying yarn and spandex (rubber) yarn as the bottom yarn of the inner side Position it to form the other side,
바늘을 동작시켜 편직을 행하기 위한 캐리지를 구동하여 상기 원사와 밑사가 소정간격으로 이격되게 위치시키는 밑사 정렬과정과, A bottom yarn alignment process of driving a carriage for knitting by operating a needle to position the yarn and the bottom yarn at a predetermined interval;
상기 밑사정렬과정에 의해 정렬된 밑사와 원사가 이동하는 바늘의 코부분에 걸리도록 하는 바늘이동과정과,And the needle movement process to be caught in the nose portion of the needle to move the bottom yarn and the yarn aligned by the bottom alignment process,
상기 바늘이동과정의 수행에 따라 밑사가 원사에 밀려 이동되는 밑사이동과정에 의해 홑치어 편직되며, 게이지(gauge) 44, 46 또는 54중 어느 하나의 게이지, 급사구 수 84 ~ 104, 회전속도 15 ~ 20rpm의 조건으로 루프장의 길이 5 ~ 15㎝가 되도록 편직되는 것을 특징으로 한다.According to the performance of the needle movement process, the yarn is knitted in one piece by the bottom movement process in which the yarn is pushed by the yarn, and the gauge (gauge) of any one of 44, 46 or 54, the number of yarns 84 to 104, the rotational speed It is characterized in that it is knitted so that the length of the loop length 5 ~ 15cm under the condition of 15 ~ 20rpm.
본 발명은 또한, 상기 개시된 편직방법에 의해 제조되며, 루프장의 길이 5 ~ 15㎝, 편직물의 밀도(WPI×CPI) 90×160 loop 이상의 범위를 갖는 것을 특징으로 하는 편직물을 제공한다. The present invention also provides a knitted fabric, which is manufactured by the above-described knitting method, and has a length of 5-15 cm of loop length, and a density of knitted fabric (WPI x CPI) of 90 x 160 loops or more.
또한, 본 발명은 상기 개시된 편직방법에 의해 편직된 편직물 또는 편직물을 90~110℃의 열수에서 편직물 폭을 셋팅하는 전처리공정, 및 탈유제 1~2g/l, 오염방지제 1g/l를 포함하는 90~100℃의 열수에서 불순물을 제거하는 정련공정; In addition, the present invention is a pre-treatment process for setting the width of the knitted fabric in a knitted fabric or knitted fabric by the above-described knitting method in hot water of 90 ~ 110 ℃, and deoiling agent 1 ~ 2g / l, 90 including a 1g / l pollution inhibitor A refining process for removing impurities from hot water at ˜100 ° C .;
반응성염료 0.1 ~ 5% o.w.f., CaCl2 10 ~ 18% o.w.f., 빙초산(Acetic acid) 0.5~1% o.w.f., 산성균염제(leveling agent) 1~2% o.w.f.가 포함되도록 혼합된 염욕 내에서 95~100℃ 상압하에서 염색하는 공정; 및 95 ~ 100 ℃ in a mixed salt bath containing 0.1 ~ 5% owf of reactive dye, CaCl 2 10 ~ 18% owf, 0.5 ~ 1% owf of acetic acid, 1 ~ 2% owf of leveling agent Dyeing under normal pressure; And
텐터온도 150~160℃, 텐터속도 30~40m/min의 조건으로 건조 및 열처리하는 후가공공정으로 이루어지는 것을 특징으로 하는 스판덱스 함유 나일론 고밀도 복합편직물의 염색가공방법을 제공한다.
It provides a dyeing processing method of spandex-containing nylon high-density composite knitted fabric comprising a post-processing step of drying and heat treatment under the conditions of the tenter temperature 150 ~ 160 ℃, tenter speed 30 ~ 40m / min.
본 발명에 따라 제공되는 편직방법에 의해 편직된 편직물은 표리 모두에 나일론의 우수한 광택 및 터치 표현이 가능하고, 얇은 중량의 고기능성 방풍니트용 원단의 제공이 가능한 효과를 가진다. The knitted fabric knitted by the knitting method provided according to the present invention has the effect of excellent gloss and touch of the nylon on both front and back, and the provision of a thin weight high-performance windproof knit fabric.
또한, 나일론사를 이용함으로써 종래 PET소재의 방풍직물보다 촉감, 신축성 및 드레이프성 등 우수한 품질의 방풍니트 원단의 제공이 가능하다. In addition, by using nylon yarn, it is possible to provide a windproof knit fabric of superior quality, such as touch, stretch and drape, than the windproof fabric of the conventional PET material.
또한, 사용원사의 데니어가 가늘어 최대한 루프장이 짧게 형성되도록 편성할 수 있다. In addition, the denier of the yarn used can be knitted so that the loop length is formed as short as possible.
이하, 본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명하기로 한다. Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
나일론 섬유는 섬유 고유의 경량성과 높은 수분율로 인해 피부에 닿는 감촉과 착용감이 타 합성섬유에 비해 매우 우수하여, 폴리에스테르와 함께 기능성 아웃도어 및 스포츠웨어에 많이 사용되고 있다. Nylon fiber is very good compared to other synthetic fibers due to the light weight and high moisture content of the fiber, compared to other synthetic fibers, it is used in functional outdoor and sportswear with polyester.
이런 이유로 본 발명자들은 나일론 섬유를 이용한 흡한속건성, 경량성, 방풍성, 신축성 등 고기능성이 부여된 편직물을 얻을 수 있을 것으로 판단하고, 상기 나일론 섬유를 이용하여 하이게이지 고밀도 편직기술 및 이의 염색가공기술을 개발하고자 한다. For this reason, the present inventors have determined that a knitted fabric to which high functionality such as sweat-absorbing quick drying, light weight, windproof, and elasticity is provided using nylon fibers can be obtained, and high-gauge high-density knitting technology and dyeing processing technology thereof using the nylon fiber are provided. I want to develop.
본 발명에서는 상기 편직기술의 개발을 위해 나일론 흡한속건사, 나일론 중공사, 극세사 및 스판덱스사를 사용하여 본 발명을 완성하고자 한다.In the present invention, it is intended to complete the present invention using nylon sweat-absorbing quick-drying yarn, nylon hollow fiber, microfiber yarn and spandex yarn for the development of the knitting technology.
본 발명에 따른 나일론사를 이용한 고밀도 편직방법은 외측면의 원사로 나일론 중공사 또는 극세사를 사용하고, 내측면의 밑사로 나일론 흡한속건사 및 스판덱스사를 사용하여 서로 다른 면을 형성하도록 위치시키며, 바늘을 동작시켜 편직을 행하기 위한 캐리지를 구동하여 상기 원사와 밑사가 소정간격으로 이격되게 위치시키는 밑사 정렬과정과; 상기 밑사정렬과정에 의해 정렬된 밑사와 원사가 이동하는 바늘의 코부분에 걸리도록 하는 바늘이동과정과; 상기 바늘이동과정의 수행에 따라 밑사가 원사에 밀려 이동되는 밑사이동과정에 의해 홑치어 편직되며, 게이지(gauge) 44, 46 또는 54중 어느 하나의 게이지, 급사구 수 84 ~ 104, 회전속도 15 ~ 20rpm의 조건으로 루프장의 길이 5 ~ 15㎝가 되도록 편직되어 이루어진다. The high-density knitting method using the nylon yarn according to the present invention is positioned to form different surfaces using nylon hollow fiber or microfiber yarn as the yarn of the outer side, using a nylon absorbent quick-drying yarn and spandex yarn as the bottom yarn of the inner side, A bottom yarn alignment process of driving a carriage for knitting by operating a needle to position the yarn and the bottom yarn at a predetermined interval; A needle movement process of hooking the nose portion of the needle to move the bottom yarn and the yarn aligned by the bottom alignment process; According to the performance of the needle movement process, the yarn is knitted in one piece by the bottom movement process in which the yarn is pushed by the yarn, and the gauge (gauge) of any one of 44, 46 or 54, the number of yarns 84 to 104, the rotational speed The knitting is made so that the length of the loop length is 5-15cm under the condition of 15-20rpm.
여기서, 상기 밑사로 사용되는 흡한속건사와 스판덱스사는 단독사로 하여 순차배열되게 공급되어 편직된다.Here, the sweat-absorbing quick-drying yarn and the spandex yarn used as the bottom yarn are fed into a single yarn to be sequentially arranged and knitted.
상기 편직방법에 의해 편직되는 편직물은 피부와 접촉하는 내피로 위치하는 밑사를 흡한속건사 및 스판덱스사가 위치함으로써 흡한속건성 및 방풍성을 확보할 수 있고, 외피부로 중공사 또는 극세사를 사용함으로써 경량성 등의 성능을 기대할 수 있다.Knitting fabric knitted by the knitting method is to secure the sweat-absorbing quick-drying and wind-proof by positioning the bottom yarn located in the inner skin in contact with the skin and the spandex yarn, light weight and the like by using hollow fiber or microfiber as the outer skin You can expect performance.
또한, 경량성의 나일론사를 사용하기 때문에 폴리에스테르사와 동등 이상의 경량성 또한 확보할 수 있고, 스판덱스사의 특성으로 신축성을 확보할 수 있게 된다.In addition, since lightweight nylon yarns are used, lightweight properties equivalent to those of polyester yarns can also be ensured, and elasticity can be ensured by the properties of spandex yarn.
상기 개시된 본 발명의 편직 방법에 의해 편직된 편직물은 루프장의 길이 5 ~ 15㎝, 편직물의 밀도(WPI×CPI) 90×160 loop 이상의 범위를 가지게 된다. The knitted fabric knitted by the knitting method of the present invention disclosed above has a length of 5-15 cm of a loop length, and a density of the knitted fabric (WPI × CPI) of 90 × 160 loop or more.
또한, 본 발명에서는 상기 개시되는 편직방법에 의해 편직되는 편직물을 90~110℃의 열수에서 편직물 폭을 셋팅하는 전처리공정 및 탈유제 1~2g/l, 오염방지제 1g/l가 혼합된 90~100℃의 열수에서 불순물을 제거하는 정련공정과 반응성염료 0.1 ~ 5% o.w.f., CaCl2 10 ~ 18% o.w.f., 빙초산(Acetic acid) 0.5~1% o.w.f., 산성균염제(leveling agent) 1~2% o.w.f.가 포함되도록 혼합된 염욕 내에서 95~100℃ 상압하에서 염색하는 공정; 및 텐터온도 150~160℃, 텐터속도 30~40m/min의 조건으로 건조 및 열처리하는 후가공공정으로 이루어지는 스판덱스사 함유 나일론 고밀도 복합편직물의 염색가공방법이 개시된다. In addition, in the present invention, the pre-treatment process for setting the width of the knitted fabric in the hot water of 90 ~ 110 ℃ to knit the knitted fabric by the disclosed method and 90 ~ 100 mixed with 1 ~ 2g / l degreaser, 1g / l pollution inhibitor Refining process to remove impurities from hot water at ℃ and reactive dye 0.1 ~ 5% owf, CaCl 2 10 ~ 18% owf, acetic acid 0.5 ~ 1% owf, leveling agent 1 ~ 2% owf Dyeing at 95-100 ° C. under atmospheric pressure in a mixed salt bath to be included; And a spandex yarn-containing nylon high density composite knitted fabric comprising a post-processing step of drying and heat-treating under conditions of a tenter temperature of 150 to 160 ° C and a tenter speed of 30 to 40 m / min.
여기서, 상기 산성균염제는 통상사용되는 것을 사용하나, 보다 바람직하게는 안이온(anion)을 사용하는 것이 좋다.In this case, the acid bactericide is generally used, but more preferably anion is used.
상기 염색가공방법을 보다 상세히 설명하면, When explaining the dyeing process in more detail,
본 발명에 따른 나일론사를 이용한 고밀도 편직물의 염색가공방법은 먼저, 나일론사와 스판덱스사로 복합편직된 편직물을 정련하기 전 90~110℃의 열수에서 편직물 폭을 셋팅하는 전처리공정을 행한다. 상기 편직물을 90~110℃의 열수에서 편직물 폭을 셋팅하여 염색가공 공정 중에 발생할 수 있는 꼬임풀림, 구김발생, 불균일한 수축, 염색얼룩 등을 방지한다. In the dyeing processing method of the high-density knitted fabric using nylon yarn according to the present invention, first, a pretreatment step of setting the width of the knitted fabric in hot water of 90 ~ 110 ℃ before refining the knitted knitted composite with nylon yarn and spandex yarn. By setting the width of the knitted fabric in hot water of 90 ~ 110 ℃ the knitted fabric to prevent twisting, wrinkles, uneven shrinkage, staining, etc. that may occur during the dyeing process.
정련은 편직공정 중에 사용되는 편직유 및 스판덱스 유제 등 불순물 제거를 위해 탈유제 1~2g/l, 오염방지제 1g/l가 혼합된 90~100℃의 열수에서 행한다.Refining is carried out in hot water at 90 to 100 ° C. containing 1 to 2 g / l of degreaser and 1 g / l of antifouling agent to remove impurities such as knitting oil and spandex emulsion used during the knitting process.
상기 전처리공정 후 염색공정을 행하게 되는데, 반응성염료 0.1 ~ 5% o.w.f., CaCl2 8~15% o.w.f., 빙초산(Acetic acid) 0.5~1% o.w.f, 산성균염제(leveling agent) 1~2% o.w.f.가 혼합된 염욕을 준비한다.After the pretreatment process, the dyeing process is performed, and the reactive dye 0.1 ~ 5% owf, CaCl 2 8 ~ 15% owf, acetic acid 0.5 ~ 1% owf, leveling agent 1 ~ 2% owf mixed Prepare a prepared bath.
상기 염욕내에서 편직물을 95~100℃ 상압하에서 염색공정을 행하는데, CaCl2 8~15% o.w.f.를 염욕내에 함유시켜 반응성염료의 섬유와의 직접성을 높여 담색뿐만 아니라 농색까지 염색이 가능하다. 일반적으로 반응성염료를 이용하여 면, 레이온 등 셀룰로스계 섬유를 염색할 경우 염욕중에 망초 등을 사용하여 염료에 대하여 섬유와의 직접성을 높이고 견뢰도도 좋게 한다. 하지만 나일론, 양모, 실크 등 폴리아미드계 섬유는 섬유구조상의 차이로 인하여 망초(Na2SO4)를 사용할 경우 색상 및 견뢰도가 떨어지며 그 효과가 거의 없으며, CaCl2를 사용할 경우 반응성염료의 섬유와의 직접성을 높여 고농도 염색 및 우수한 견뢰도를 얻을 수 있다. 또한 반응성염료를 셀룰로스 섬유와 염색하기 위해서는 소다회 등 다량의 알칼리를 사용하지만 나일론 염색의 경우 염욕의 pH는 빙초산 등을 사용하여 산성조건에서 섬유와 염료가 화학반응을 일으켜 고착할 수 있도록 하여 농색에서도 견뢰도가 우수하다.
The dyeing process is performed in the dye bath under normal pressure of 95 ~ 100 ℃, CaCl 2 8-15% owf is contained in the salt bath to increase the directness of the fiber of the reactive dye is possible to dye as well as light color. Generally, when dyeing cellulosic fibers such as cotton and rayon using reactive dyes, it is possible to improve the directness of the dyes and the fastness of the dyes by using a forage in the dye bath. However, polyamide-based fibers such as nylon, wool, and silk have little effect on color and color fastness when using forget-me-not (Na 2 SO 4 ) due to the difference in fiber structure, and when using CaCl 2 , Increasing the directness, high concentration dyeing and excellent fastness can be obtained. In addition, in order to dye reactive dyes with cellulose fibers, a large amount of alkali such as soda ash is used.However, in the case of nylon dyeing, the pH of the salt bath uses glacial acetic acid to fix fibers and dyes under acidic conditions so that the dyes can be fixed by color fastness. Is excellent.
상기 염색공정 후 텐터로 건조 및 열처리하는 후가공공정을 하여 본 발명의 나일론사를 이용한 고밀도 편직물 염색가공방법을 완료하게 되는데, 건조 및 열처리는 텐터온도 140~170℃, 텐터속도 30 ~ 40m/min에서 행하여 나일론 고유의 터치 및 드레이프성을 부여하고 중량 및 폭을 고정할 수 있다. 바람직하게 상기 텐터온도는 150~160℃ 내로 되는 것이 좋다. 이 과정에서 과도한 텐터온도에 의한 나일론 고유의 물성저하 및 스판덱스 섬유의 취하가 발생되지 않도록 유의해야 한다.
After the dyeing process is dried and heat treated with a tenter to complete the high-density knitted fabric dyeing method using the nylon yarn of the present invention, the drying and heat treatment at the tenter temperature 140 ~ 170 ℃, tenter speed 30 ~ 40m / min To give nylon inherent touch and drape and to fix weight and width. Preferably the tenter temperature is within 150 ~ 160 ℃. In this process, care must be taken to avoid the deterioration of the inherent properties of nylon and the removal of spandex fibers due to excessive tenter temperature.
이하, 본 발명을 바람직한 실시예를 들어 보다 상세히 설명하기로 한다. 단, 하기의 실시예로 본 발명이 한정되는 것은 아니다. Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to preferred embodiments. However, the present invention is not limited to the following examples.
[실시예1 및 2][Examples 1 and 2]
원사로 나일론 흡한속건사, 나일론 중공사, 나일론 극세사, 스판덱스사를 준비하고, 상기 나일론 흡한속건사 및 스판덱스사가 피부와 접촉하는 밑사로 위치하게 하고, 상기 나일론 중공사(실시예 1) 또는 나일론 극세사(실시예 2)가 외피쪽에 위치하도록 하여 편직되며, 환편기의 게이지 44, 직경 30inch, 급사구 수 84, 회전속도 15rpm의 조건으로 편직하여 루프장의 길이 10㎝가 되도록 편직된 시편을 준비하고, 상기 시편을 하기 표 1의 조건으로 염색가공을 하였고, 염색 후 흡한속건성, 공기투과도 등 하기 표 2의 평가항목에 따라 물성평가를 실시하였다. Prepare a nylon sweat-absorbing quick-drying yarn, nylon hollow fiber, nylon microfiber, spandex yarn as a yarn, and place the nylon sweat-absorbing fast-drying yarn and spandex yarn as a bottom yarn in contact with the skin, the nylon hollow fiber (Example 1) or nylon microfiber (Example 2) is knitted so as to be located on the outer side, and prepared a knitted specimen so as to have a length of 10cm of the loop length by knitting under the conditions of gauge 44, diameter 30inch, number of yarns 84, rotation speed 15rpm of the circular knitting machine, and the above The specimens were dyed under the conditions shown in Table 1 below, and the physical properties were evaluated according to the evaluation items shown in Table 2 below, such as sweat drying and air permeability after dyeing.
평가기준은 현재 시판되고 있는 방풍니트의 수준을 기준으로 하였으며, 기준수준은 흡한속건성 130/10min, 공기투과도 <70mim/㎠, 중량 130g/㎡, 수축율 5%, 세탁견뢰도 3급 이상, 마찰견뢰도 3급이상, 물견뢰도 3급 이상, 일광견뢰도 3급 이상이다.The evaluation criteria were based on the level of wind-proof knits currently on the market. It is above grade, water fastness level 3 or higher, and daylight fastness level 3 or higher.
- 오염방지제 1g/l
- 95℃×20min-2 g / l degreaser,
-1g / l pollution inhibitor
-95 ℃ × 20min
- CaCl2 10% o.w.f.
- 산성균염제 1% o.w.f.
- 빙초산 %1 o.w.f.
- 98℃×60minYellow 0.8%, Blue 0.6
CaCl 2 10% owf
-1% owf acid bactericide
-Glacial acetic acid% 1 owf
-98 ℃ × 60min
- 텐터속도 30m/min-Tenter temperature 150 ℃
-Tenter speed 30m / min
(시험규격)Assessment Methods
(Test specification)
이상의 결과로 볼 때, 본 발명에 따른 편직 및 염색방법에 따라 제공되는 편직물은 현재 시판되고 있는 방풍니트의 수준 대비 동등 이상의 물성을 가짐을 알 수 있으며, 그 결과 본 발명이 목적하는 흡한속건성, 경량성, 신축성 등 고기능성의 편직물을 얻을 수 있음을 알 수 있었다.In view of the above results, it can be seen that the knitted fabric provided according to the knitting and dyeing method according to the present invention has a physical property equivalent to or higher than the level of the wind-proof knit currently on the market, and as a result, the sweat-absorbing quick-drying, lightweight It was found that high-functional knitted fabrics such as elasticity and elasticity can be obtained.
Claims (4)
상기 밑사정렬과정에 의해 정렬된 밑사와 원사가 이동하는 바늘의 코부분에 걸리도록 하는 바늘이동과정과,
상기 바늘이동과정의 수행에 따라 밑사가 원사에 밀려 이동되는 밑사이동과정에 의해 홑치어 편직되며,
게이지(gauge) 44, 46 또는 54중 어느 하나의 게이지, 급사구 수 84 ~ 104, 회전속도 15 ~ 20rpm의 조건으로 루프장의 길이 5 ~ 15㎝가 되도록 편직되는 것을 특징으로 하는 나일론사를 이용한 고밀도 편직방법.
Nylon hollow fiber or microfiber is used as the yarn on the outer side, nylon absorbent quick-drying yarn and spandex yarn are used as the bottom yarn on the inner side to form different sides, and the needle is operated to drive the carriage for knitting. And the yarn alignment process for positioning the yarn and the bottom yarn spaced at a predetermined interval,
And the needle movement process to be caught in the nose portion of the needle to move the bottom yarn and the yarn aligned by the bottom alignment process,
According to the performance of the needle movement process, the yarn is knitted together by the bottom movement process in which the bottom yarn is pushed by the yarn.
Gauge Any one of 44, 46 or 54, high density using nylon yarn, characterized in that the knitting length is 5 to 15cm of the length of the loop length under the conditions of 84 ~ 104, spin speed 15 ~ 20rpm Knitting Method.
A knitted fabric manufactured by knitting according to claim 1, wherein the knitted fabric has a length of 5-15 cm of a loop length and a density (WPI) of 90 loops or more.
반응성염료 0.1 ~ 5% o.w.f., CaCl2 10 ~ 18% o.w.f., 빙초산(Acetic acid) 0.5~1% o.w.f., 산성균염제(leveling agent) 1~2% o.w.f.가 포함되도록 혼합된 염욕 내에서 95~100℃ 상압하에서 염색하는 공정; 및
텐터온도 150~160℃, 텐터속도 30~40m/min의 조건으로 건조 및 열처리하는 후가공공정으로 이루어지는 것을 특징으로 하는 스판덱스 함유 나일론 고밀도 복합편직물의 염색가공방법.
A pretreatment step of setting the width of the knitted fabric prepared by the knitting method according to claim 1 or the knitted fabric according to claim 2 in hot water at 90 to 110 ° C., and including degreasing agent 1 to 2 g / l and pollution inhibitor 1 g / l. Refining process for removing impurities in hot water of 90 ~ 100 ℃;
95 ~ 100 ℃ in a mixed salt bath containing 0.1 ~ 5% owf of reactive dye, CaCl 2 10 ~ 18% owf, 0.5 ~ 1% owf of acetic acid, 1 ~ 2% owf of leveling agent Dyeing under normal pressure; And
Dyeing method of spandex-containing nylon high-density composite knitted fabric comprising a post-processing step of drying and heat treatment under the conditions of the tenter temperature 150 ~ 160 ℃, tenter speed 30 ~ 40m / min.
상기 산성균염제는 안이온(anion)인 것을 특징으로 하는 스판덱스 함유 나일론 고밀도 복합편직물의 염색가공방법.
The method of claim 3, wherein
The acid bacter salt is anion (dyion) dyeing processing method of spandex-containing nylon high-density composite knitted fabric.
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| KR101308009B1 (en) * | 2013-02-01 | 2013-09-12 | (주)충암산업 | Nylon knitted goods dying sulfadye and preparing method thereof |
| KR101566634B1 (en) | 2014-08-18 | 2015-11-10 | 주식회사에스케이니트 | Two-layer circular knit having excellent temperature adaptability and process of producing thereof |
| CN107419415A (en) * | 2017-06-15 | 2017-12-01 | 湖北嘉麟杰纺织品有限公司 | A kind of preparation method of the ultra-fine principle of readjustment, restructuring, consolidation and improvement away from silk-like fabric |
| KR20190023477A (en) * | 2017-08-29 | 2019-03-08 | (주)텍스밀 | Method of Producing High Dencity Knit Having Excellent Dimensional Stability |
| CN109576982A (en) * | 2015-12-03 | 2019-04-05 | 晋江市龙兴隆染织实业有限公司 | Four-side elasticity fabric and its manufacture craft |
| KR102018990B1 (en) * | 2018-07-30 | 2019-09-06 | (주)텍스밀 | Method of Producing High Density Knit Having Excellent Sweat-absorption and Rapid-drying Function And Blocking Transmission |
| KR102088139B1 (en) * | 2019-09-18 | 2020-03-11 | 하헌주 | Double-sided interlock circular knitting fabric containing elastic yarn on the back side only |
| KR20220072305A (en) * | 2020-11-25 | 2022-06-02 | 유준철 | High Densty Multi Flex Textile and Maunfacturing Method Thereof |
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Cited By (11)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| KR101308009B1 (en) * | 2013-02-01 | 2013-09-12 | (주)충암산업 | Nylon knitted goods dying sulfadye and preparing method thereof |
| KR101566634B1 (en) | 2014-08-18 | 2015-11-10 | 주식회사에스케이니트 | Two-layer circular knit having excellent temperature adaptability and process of producing thereof |
| CN109576982A (en) * | 2015-12-03 | 2019-04-05 | 晋江市龙兴隆染织实业有限公司 | Four-side elasticity fabric and its manufacture craft |
| CN109576982B (en) * | 2015-12-03 | 2021-01-01 | 晋江市龙兴隆染织实业有限公司 | Four-side elastic fabric and manufacturing process thereof |
| CN107419415A (en) * | 2017-06-15 | 2017-12-01 | 湖北嘉麟杰纺织品有限公司 | A kind of preparation method of the ultra-fine principle of readjustment, restructuring, consolidation and improvement away from silk-like fabric |
| KR20190023477A (en) * | 2017-08-29 | 2019-03-08 | (주)텍스밀 | Method of Producing High Dencity Knit Having Excellent Dimensional Stability |
| KR101957035B1 (en) * | 2017-08-29 | 2019-03-11 | (주)텍스밀 | Method of Producing High Dencity Knit Having Excellent Dimensional Stability |
| KR102018990B1 (en) * | 2018-07-30 | 2019-09-06 | (주)텍스밀 | Method of Producing High Density Knit Having Excellent Sweat-absorption and Rapid-drying Function And Blocking Transmission |
| KR102088139B1 (en) * | 2019-09-18 | 2020-03-11 | 하헌주 | Double-sided interlock circular knitting fabric containing elastic yarn on the back side only |
| KR20220072305A (en) * | 2020-11-25 | 2022-06-02 | 유준철 | High Densty Multi Flex Textile and Maunfacturing Method Thereof |
| KR102489431B1 (en) * | 2020-11-25 | 2023-01-16 | 유준철 | Maunfacturing Method for High Densty Multi Flex Textile |
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