KR100231193B1 - Method for producing polyester filaments fabric and knitting - Google Patents
Method for producing polyester filaments fabric and knitting Download PDFInfo
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- KR100231193B1 KR100231193B1 KR1019970037951A KR19970037951A KR100231193B1 KR 100231193 B1 KR100231193 B1 KR 100231193B1 KR 1019970037951 A KR1019970037951 A KR 1019970037951A KR 19970037951 A KR19970037951 A KR 19970037951A KR 100231193 B1 KR100231193 B1 KR 100231193B1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
- D02G1/16—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam
- D02G1/161—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam yarn crimping air jets
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
- D02G3/28—Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/34—Material containing ester groups
- D06P3/52—Polyesters
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/14—Dyeability
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
- Fluid Mechanics (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Coloring (AREA)
Abstract
본 발명은 POY(부분배향사) 폴리에스테르 필라메트 85데니어/75필라멘트의 2 합사를 에어 제트 텍스쳐링하여 제조한 가공사를 사용하여 직, 편한 직, 편물을 염색가공하되, 에어 제트 텍스쳐링을 다음과 같이 하여서 소모조의 외관, 촉감을 가지며 심색성과 견뢰도가 우수한 직, 편물을 제조하는 방법임.The present invention is a dyeing process of the woven fabric, knitted fabric, knitted fabric using a POY (partially oriented yarn) polyester filament 85 denier / 75 filament of the two-ply yarn of the jet yarn texturing, air jet texturing as follows It is a method of manufacturing woven and knitted fabrics with the appearance and feel of the consumption tank and excellent color depth and color fastness.
다 음next
ㅇ 오버피드 : 10 ∼ 30 %ㅇ Overfeed: 10 ~ 30%
ㅇ 텍스쳐링스피드 : 300 ∼ 600 m/분ㅇ Texting speed: 300∼600 m / min
ㅇ 에어압력 : 5 ∼ 7 barㅇ Air pressure: 5 ~ 7 bar
ㅇ 스테빌라이징 익스텐션 : 2 ∼ 6 %ㅇ Stabilizing extension: 2 ~ 6%
ㅇ 습윤처리 : 1ℓ/hㅇ Wetting treatment: 1ℓ / h
Description
본 발명은 심색성이 우수한 소모조 폴리에스테르 필라멘트 직, 편물의 제조방법에 관한 것으로, 보다 상세하게는 에어제트텍스쳐링한 폴리에스테르 필라멘트사를 사용하여 직, 편물을 편성하고 통상의 가공방법으로 후가공함으로써 방적사를 사용했을때와 유사한 소모조의 외관과 촉감이 얻어지고, 각 필라멘트가 서로 교락하여 복잡한 요철과 루프를 형성하고 있기 때문에 합성섬유 특유의 플라스틱감이 없어지고 광택이 소멸되어 깊이가 있는 색상, 즉, 심색성이 우수한 직, 편물의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method for producing a consumption polyester polyester filament woven fabric, knitted fabric, and more particularly, by knitting the fabric and knitted fabric by using an air jet textured polyester filament yarn, and by post-processing in a conventional processing method The appearance and feel of the waste tank similar to that of the yarns are obtained, and since each filament is entangled with each other to form complex irregularities and loops, the plastic feeling peculiar to the synthetic fiber is lost and the gloss disappears, so that the color is deep. It is related with the manufacturing method of the knit fabric which is excellent in deep colorability.
일반적으로 용융 방사한 폴리에스테르 필라멘트는 굴절율이 크고 표면이 평활하기 때문에 광의 표면 반사율이 커서 발색성이 매우 낮고 직, 편물로 제조후에도 표면감이 매끄러워 소모조의 느낌을 얻기가 어렵다. 또한 섬유 구조가 치밀하고 결정성이 높아 염료의 확산속도가 늦고 염료의 입자가 작아야 하기 때문에 염료의 화학구조에도 제약을 받아 이온성 염료에 비해 색채 표현 범위가 좁게 된다. 이러한 이유등으로 폴리에스테르 필라멘트를 사용하여 소모조 및 심색성 직, 편물을 제조하는데에는 많은 제약을 받게된다. 그러나 최근까지 폴리에스테르 섬유의 개질화 노력 및 신합섬 대두의 영향으로 폴리머 개발부터 특수가공에 이르기까지 각 공정별 기술 향상이 있어왔으나 사가공 부문은 그 기술 개발과 응용이 다소 미약하다고 할 수 있다.In general, the melt filament polyester filament has a high refractive index and a smooth surface, so that the surface reflectance of light is very high, and the color development is very low. In addition, since the fiber structure is dense and the crystallinity is high, the dye diffusion rate is slow and the particles of the dye must be small, thereby limiting the chemical structure of the dye, thereby narrowing the range of color expression compared to the ionic dye. For this reason, there are many limitations in the production of the consumption tank, deep color fabric, and knitted fabric using polyester filament. However, until recently, due to the reform of polyester fiber and the effect of new soybeans, there have been technological improvements in each process from polymer development to special processing, but the development and application of the processing is rather weak.
종래의 폴리에스테르 필라멘트를 사용하는 소모조 직물의 개발에는 통상적으로 폴리에스테르 가연사(DTY)를 사용하였으나, 가연-열고정-해연에 의하여 필라멘트의 길이방향으로 루프가 발현된 DTY는 직, 편물의 제조시 제직공정, 염가공공정에서 긴장을 받으면 루프가 신장이 되어서 만족스러운 소모조의 촉감과 외관을 얻을 수 없다. 또한 심색화를 얻기위하여 섬유의 단면 및 측면 변형의 방법(조면화:組面化)은 폴리에스테르 섬유 제조시에 유기 및 무기 화합물을 첨가해야하므로 방사의 난점이 있으며, 염색공정에서의 염료 투입량의 과다로 말미아마 각종 견뢰도가 나빠지며, 또 특수 저굴절 수지가공은 공정추가로 인해 제조원가가 상승하게 된다.In general, polyester twisted yarn (DTY) was used for the development of a consumption tank fabric using polyester filaments, but DTY, in which loops are expressed in the lengthwise direction of the filament by twist-heat-fixing-twisting, When the fabric is subjected to tension in the weaving process and the dyeing process, the loop is stretched and a satisfactory feeling and appearance of the waste tank cannot be obtained. In addition, in order to obtain deep coloration, the method of cross-sectional and lateral deformation of the fiber (roughening) requires the addition of organic and inorganic compounds in the production of polyester fiber, which has a difficulty in spinning, As a result, the various fastnesses deteriorate, and the manufacturing cost of special low refractive resin processing increases due to the additional process.
본 발명의 목적은 레귤러 폴리에스테르 필라멘트를 적절한 처리조건으로 에어 제트 텍스쳐링하여 직, 편물 제조에 사용함으로써 소모조의 외관과 촉감 및 심색 발현을 부여하는데 있으며, 또 다른 목적은 레귤라 폴리에스테르 필라멘트를 사용하여 통상의 제직 및 염가공 공정을 행함으로써 직, 편물 제조 원가를 절감과 염색시에 염료의 사용량을 감소시킴으로서 습윤견뢰도, 승화견뢰도 마찰견뢰도가 매우 향상되는 제조방법을 제공하는데 있다.An object of the present invention is to impart the appearance, feel and deep color of the consumption bath by using a regular polyester filament air jet texturing in the appropriate processing conditions for the production of woven, knitted fabric, and another object is to use a regular polyester filament The present invention provides a manufacturing method which greatly improves wet fastness, sublimation fastness and friction fastness by reducing the production cost of woven and knitted fabrics and reducing the amount of dye used during dyeing.
본 발명을 더욱 상세하게 설명하면 다음과 같다.The present invention is described in more detail as follows.
4,000m/분으로 방사된 POY 폴리에스테르 필라멘트 85데니어/72필라멘트를 이합(2合)한후 습윤처리한 다음에 에어 제트 텍스쳐링(texturing)하였다. 본 발명에서 채택한 공정조건은 오버피드 10∼30%, 텍스쳐링 스피드 300∼600m/분, 에어 압력 5∼7bar, 습윤처리 1ℓ/h, 스테빌라이징 익스텐션 2∼6% 이다.POY polyester filaments 85 denier / 72 filaments spun at 4,000 m / min were combined, wetted, and then jetted with air jet texturing. The process conditions adopted in the present invention are 10 to 30% overfeed, texturing speed 300 to 600 m / min, air pressure 5 to 7 bar, wetting treatment 1 L / h and stabilizing extension 2 to 6%.
오버피드 30%을 초과하면 노즐안에서 각 필라멘트간의 교락이 증가하여 루프의 형성은 증가하지만 그만큼 루프의 불안정성이 증가하여 텍스쳐링성이 떨어지게 되며, 10% 미만에서는 필라멘트의 공급이 노즐 출구밖으로 나가는 속도에 비해 적기때문에 필라멘트 굽힘으로 인한 루프의 크기가 커지고 필라멘트간의 결속이 작아져 루프의 불안정성이 높아지므로 텍스쳐링성이 떨어지게 된다.If the overfeed exceeds 30%, the entanglement between each filament increases in the nozzle, which increases the formation of loops, but increases the instability of the loop, resulting in poor texturing. As a result, the size of the loop due to the filament bending increases and the binding between the filaments decreases, which increases the instability of the loop, thereby degrading the texture.
텍스쳐링 스피드가 600m/분을 초과하면 노즐안에서 에어에 의한 각 필라멘트의 회전력이 감소하여 필라멘트간의 굽힘과 교락의 가능성이 줄어들어 거의 일직선상의 가공사가 만들어지며, 텍스쳐링 스피드가 낮을수록 루프가 증가하고 생성된 루프가 견고하지만 생산성면에서 텍스쳐링 스피드는 300m/분을 초과하여야 한다.If the texturing speed exceeds 600 m / min, the rotational force of each filament by the air in the nozzle decreases, reducing the possibility of bending and entanglement between the filaments, resulting in a nearly straight working yarn.A lower texting speed increases the loop and creates a loop In terms of productivity, the texturing speed should exceed 300 m / min.
에어 압력이 7bar를 초과하면 필라멘트간의 인터밍글링(intermingling)이 증가하여 루프가 증가하지만 그만큼 루프의 불안정성이 증가하고, 에어 압력이 5bar미만에서는 루프의 크기가 커지고 루프수가 적어지게 된다.When the air pressure exceeds 7 bar, the intermingling between the filaments increases to increase the loop, but the instability of the loop increases accordingly, and when the air pressure is less than 5 bar, the loop size increases and the number of loops decreases.
스테빌라이징 익스텐션은 노즐을 나온 가공사의 중심부에 단단히 고정되지 않은 루프를 제거하기 위해 하는 것으로 6%를 초과하면 가공사가 손상되거나 절단되고, 2%미만에서는 불안전한 루프가 완전하게 제거되지 않는다.The stabilizing extension is intended to remove loops that are not firmly fixed to the core of the yarn exiting the nozzle. If it exceeds 6%, the processor is damaged or cut, and below 2% the unsafe loop is not completely removed.
습윤처리는 노즐로 필라멘트가 공급되기 전에 행해지는데 노즐안에서 필라멘트간의 굽힘과 교락을 하는데 있어서 윤활역할을 하기 때문에 습윤처리를 하면 하지 않았을때와 비교해 가공효과가 매우 우수하게 된다.The wetting treatment is performed before the filament is supplied to the nozzle, and because it acts as a lubrication in bending and entanglement between the filaments in the nozzle, the processing effect is very excellent compared to when the wet treatment is not performed.
상기한 바와 같이 제조된 폴리에스테르 필라멘트 가공사를 경사, 위사로 각각 사용한후 제직하여 통상의 염가공 방법으로 염색시 염료의 사용량은 4∼6% o.w.f가 적절하다. 사용한 염료의 양이 6% o.w.f를 초과할 경우는 심색은 좋아지나 각종 견뢰도가 나빠지고, 4% o.w.f미만일 경우는 심색이 떨어진다.When using the polyester filament processed yarn prepared as described above as a warp, weft yarn, respectively, weaving and dyeing by conventional salt processing method, the amount of dye used is 4-6% o.w.f. If the amount of dye used exceeds 6% o.w.f, the deep color will be good, but various fastnesses will deteriorate, and if the amount of dye used is less than 4% o.w.f, the deep color will fall.
만약 레귤러 폴리에스테르 필라멘트를 사용한 직물을 가지고 본 발명과 동일한 정도의 심색을 얻기 위해서는 대략 3∼4% o.w.f정도 더 많은 염료를 사용해야 한다. 이와 같이 본 발명은 염색 공정시 적은 량의 염료를 사용하더라도 심색성을 얻을 수 있으며 각종 견뢰도, 즉 습윤견뢰도, 승화견뢰도, 마찰견뢰도를 향상시킬 수 있다.If you have a fabric with regular polyester filaments and you want to achieve the same depth of color as the present invention, you should use about 3-4% more o.w.f. As such, the present invention can obtain deep colorability even when a small amount of dye is used during the dyeing process, and can improve various fastnesses, that is, wet fastness, sublimation fastness, and friction fastness.
[실시예 1]Example 1
4,000m/분으로 방사된 POY폴리에스테르 필라멘트 85데니어/72필라멘트를 2합하여 T100 헤머 제트 텍스쳐링 머신을 이용하여 오버피드 20%, 텍스쳐링 스피드 400m/분, 에어 압력 7bar, 습윤 처리 1ℓ/h, 스테빌라이징 익스텐션 4%의 조건에서 텍스쳐링하였다. 이 가공사를 경사, 위사로 사용하여 각각 경사 밀도 85본/인치, 위사 밀도 50본/인치로 아문젠 조직으로 워터제트 직기에서 제직하였다. 이를 로타리워셔에서 120℃에서 30분간 정련하고 프리세트를 180℃에서 30초, 감량 20%, 분산염료 블랙 칼라 5% o.w.f로 130℃에서 30분 염색 후 마지막으로 170℃에서 최종세트를 한 후 관능평가, 심색평가, 견뢰도 평가를 하여 표 1에 나타내었다.POY polyester filament 85 denier / 72 filaments spun at 4,000 m / min, combined with T100 Hemer jet texturing machine, 20% overfeed, 400 m / min texturing speed, 7 bar air pressure, 1 l / h wetted, stabilizing Textured at 4% extension. This processed yarn was used as a warp and weft yarn, and weaved in a waterjet loom with an amungen structure with a warp density of 85 bones / inch and a weft density of 50 bones / inch, respectively. This was refined in a rotary washer at 120 ° C for 30 minutes, and the preset was dyed at 180 ° C for 30 seconds, weight loss 20%, and disperse dye black color 5% owf for 30 minutes at 130 ° C. Evaluation, deep color evaluation, and fastness evaluation were shown in Table 1.
[실시예 2]Example 2
에어 제트 텍스쳐링 공정 조건을 오버피드 30%, 텍스쳐링 스피드 300m/분, 에어 압력 7bar로 한 것을 제외하고 실시예 1과 동일하세 실시하였다.Air jet texturing process was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the conditions of the overfeed 30%, texturing speed 300m / min, air pressure 7bar.
[비교예 1]Comparative Example 1
경사, 위사로 에어 제트 텍스쳐드사를 사용한 것 대신에 4,000m/분으로 방사된 POY폴리에스테르 필라멘트를 가공한 가연사 85데니어/72필라멘트를 2합하여 사용한 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1과 동일하게 실시하였다.The same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out except that 85 denier / 72 filaments of twisted yarns processed with POY polyester filaments spun at 4,000 m / min were used instead of using an air jet textured yarn as warp and weft yarns. .
[비교예 2]Comparative Example 2
에어 제트 텍스쳐링 공정 조건을 오버피드 5%, 텍스쳐링 스피드 300m/min, 에어 압력 3bar로 한것을 제외하고 실시예 1과 동일하게 실시하였다.The air jet texturing process was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the overfeed 5%, the texturing speed was 300 m / min, and the air pressure was 3 bar.
[비교예 3]Comparative Example 3
염가공 공정시 염료의 사용량을 8% o.w.f로 사용한 것을 제외하고 실시예 1과 동일하게 실시하였다.The dyeing process was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the amount of dye used was 8% o.w.f.
[비교예 4][Comparative Example 4]
염가공 공정시 염료의 사용량을 2% o.w.f로 사용한 것을 제외하고 실시예 1과 동일하게 실시하였다.The dyeing process was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the amount of dye used was 2% o.w.f.
[비교예 5][Comparative Example 5]
염가공 공정시 염료의 사용량을 8% o.w.f로 사용한 것을 제외하고 비교예1과 동일하게 실시하였다.The dyeing process was performed in the same manner as in Comparative Example 1 except that the amount of dye used was 8% o.w.f.
[비교예 6]Comparative Example 6
에어 제트 텍스쳐링 공정 조건을 텍스쳐링 스피드 700m/분, 에어 압력 9bar로 하고 습윤 처리를 하지 않은 것을 제외하고 실시예 1과 동일하게 실시하였다.The air jet texturing process was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the texturing speed was 700 m / min, the air pressure was 9 bar, and the wet treatment was not performed.
[비교예 7]Comparative Example 7
에어 제트 텍스쳐링 공정 조건을 텍스쳐링 스피드 700m/분, 에어 압력 9bar로 하고 습윤 처리를 하지 않은 것과 염가공 공정시 염료의 사용량을 8% o.w.f로 사용한 것을 제외하고 실시예 1과 동일하게 실시하였다.The air jet texturing process was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the texturing speed was 700 m / min, the air pressure was 9 bar, and the wet treatment was not performed, and the amount of dye used during the dyeing process was 8% o.w.f.
[표 1]TABLE 1
[평가 기준][Evaluation standard]
1. 관능평가 : ◎ 매우 우수1. Sensory evaluation: ◎ Very good
○ 우수○ excellent
△ 다소 양호△ Somewhat good
2. 심색 평가 : NIPPON DENSHOKU 색차계 사용2. Deep color evaluation: using NIPPON DENSHOKU colorimeter
3. 견뢰도 평가3. Color fastness evaluation
-세탁 견뢰도 : K 0641Washing fastness: K 0641
-마찰 견뢰도 : K 0650-90Friction fastness: K 0650-90
-승화 견뢰도 : K 0651-80Sublimation color fastness: K 0651-80
상술한 바와 같이 본 발명으로 제조된 직물은 종전의 폴리에스테르 필라멘트 가공사 DTY를 사용한 직물에 비해 직물표면에 형성된 무수한 요철 및 루프로 인해 소모조의 효과가 매우 우수하다. 뙤, 염색 공정시 적은량의 염료를 사용하더라도 심색성을 얻을 수 있으며 각종 견뢰도, 즉 습윤견뢰도, 승화견뢰도, 마찰견뢰도를 향상시킬 수 있다.As described above, the fabric produced by the present invention has a very good effect of the consumption tank due to the innumerable irregularities and loops formed on the fabric surface compared to the fabric using the polyester filament processed yarn DTY. 뙤, deep colorability can be obtained even if a small amount of dye is used in the dyeing process, and it can improve various fastnesses, that is, wet fastness, sublimation fastness and friction fastness.
Claims (2)
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| KR1019970037951A KR100231193B1 (en) | 1997-08-08 | 1997-08-08 | Method for producing polyester filaments fabric and knitting |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| KR1019970037951A KR100231193B1 (en) | 1997-08-08 | 1997-08-08 | Method for producing polyester filaments fabric and knitting |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| KR19990015689A KR19990015689A (en) | 1999-03-05 |
| KR100231193B1 true KR100231193B1 (en) | 1999-11-15 |
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Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| KR1019970037951A KR100231193B1 (en) | 1997-08-08 | 1997-08-08 | Method for producing polyester filaments fabric and knitting |
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| Country | Link |
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| KR (1) | KR100231193B1 (en) |
Families Citing this family (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| KR100490563B1 (en) * | 1997-08-11 | 2005-09-06 | 주식회사 휴비스 | Fabrication method of excellent stretch fabric |
| KR100530556B1 (en) * | 1999-11-20 | 2005-11-22 | 코오롱티티에이 주식회사 | High visibility polyester fabric for warning cloth |
| KR101106896B1 (en) * | 2010-03-17 | 2012-01-25 | (주) 배명 | Amunzen textile and the weaving method |
-
1997
- 1997-08-08 KR KR1019970037951A patent/KR100231193B1/en not_active IP Right Cessation
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| Publication number | Publication date |
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| KR19990015689A (en) | 1999-03-05 |
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