JPH10110341A - Production of deeply dyed woven or knitted fabric - Google Patents
Production of deeply dyed woven or knitted fabricInfo
- Publication number
- JPH10110341A JPH10110341A JP8262743A JP26274396A JPH10110341A JP H10110341 A JPH10110341 A JP H10110341A JP 8262743 A JP8262743 A JP 8262743A JP 26274396 A JP26274396 A JP 26274396A JP H10110341 A JPH10110341 A JP H10110341A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- yarn
- component
- mixture
- fiber
- twisting
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
Landscapes
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Coloring (AREA)
Abstract
Description
【０００１】[0001]
【発明の属する技術分野】本発明は，濃染効果に優れた
織編物の製造方法に関するものである。BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a woven or knitted fabric excellent in a deep dyeing effect.
【０００２】[0002]
【従来の技術】合成繊維，特にポリエステル繊維は，耐
摩耗性，寸法安定性，ウォッシュアンドウェア性等の点
に優れていることより，広く一般衣料素材として使用さ
れている。さらに，衣料用ポリエステルの差別化は，新
合繊ブームにより開花し，シルクライク，ウールライク
等を追求した素材が各社より盛んに提案されている。し
かしながら，ポリエステル繊維は，その表面が平滑であ
り，繊維表面で光の反射が大きく，ウールと比べると濃
色，特に黒，紺等における色の深みが乏しいという欠点
を有している。2. Description of the Related Art Synthetic fibers, especially polyester fibers, are widely used as general clothing materials because of their excellent abrasion resistance, dimensional stability, wash and wear properties, and the like. Furthermore, the differentiation of polyester for clothing has been flowering with the new synthetic fiber boom, and materials pursuing silk-like, wool-like, etc. have been actively proposed by various companies. However, polyester fibers have the disadvantage that the surface is smooth, the reflection of light is large on the fiber surface, and the color depth is poor compared to wool, especially in dark colors, especially black and dark blue.
【０００３】従来より，原繊段階でポリエステル繊維に
ついて色の深みを改善すべく種々の提案がされている。
例えば，特開昭５２−９９４００号公報，特開昭５３−
１１１１９２号公報等には，フッ素系またはシリコン系
等の低屈折率を有する樹脂を繊維表面に皮膜状に形成す
る方法が提案されている。しかしながら，この方法の場
合，繊維表面に形成された樹脂皮膜が洗濯や摩耗により
剥離し，色の深みに変化を生じたり，あるいは白化する
等の問題があった。また，特開昭５２−９９４００号公
報，特開昭５８−１１８１３７号公報，特開昭６０−１
１０９７１号公報には，ポリエステル繊維あるいはシリ
カ等の無機微粒子を含有せしめたポリエステル繊維にプ
ラズマエッチングやアルカリ減量処理を行う方法が提案
されている。しかしながら，この方法では，繊維の表面
粗化には効果的であるものの，その深色化の程度につい
ては一定の限度があり，天然繊維並みの色の深みを得る
ことは困難であった。さらに，この方法では，設備的に
も多額の投資が必要であり，コスト高となるという欠点
も有していた。Conventionally, various proposals have been made to improve the color depth of polyester fibers at the stage of the original fiber.
For example, JP-A-52-99400, JP-A-53-99400
No. 111192 proposes a method of forming a resin having a low refractive index, such as a fluorine-based or silicon-based resin, on a fiber surface in a film form. However, in the case of this method, there is a problem that the resin film formed on the fiber surface is peeled off by washing or abrasion, causing a change in color depth or whitening. Also, JP-A-52-99400, JP-A-58-118137, and JP-A-60-1
No. 10971 proposes a method of performing a plasma etching or alkali reduction treatment on polyester fibers or polyester fibers containing inorganic fine particles such as silica. However, although this method is effective for roughening the surface of fibers, it has a certain limit on the degree of deepening, and it has been difficult to obtain a color depth comparable to that of natural fibers. Further, this method has a disadvantage that a large investment is required for equipment and the cost is high.
【０００４】そこで未延伸糸を延伸同時仮撚加工する
際，延伸倍率をできるだけ低くして仮撚加工を施し，糸
条の配向度を抑えて濃染効果を高める方法も試みられて
いる。しかしながら，延伸倍率を低くすると，通常のピ
ンタイプ仮撚法ではバルーニングのために糸切れが発生
し，また，フリクションタイプでは低張力に伴い加撚効
率が悪くなる等，操業面で難点があった。さらに，特開
平４−２１４４３１号公報には，ピンタイプやフリクシ
ョンタイプに代わる施撚体として，単に流体旋回ノズル
を用いて仮撚加工する方法が提案されている。しかしな
がらこの方法では，若干の濃染効果は認められるもの
の，天然繊維並みの色の深みを得ることは困難であっ
た。Therefore, when simultaneously drawing and untwisting an undrawn yarn, a method has been attempted in which the draw ratio is reduced as much as possible to perform false twisting to suppress the degree of orientation of the yarn and enhance the deep dyeing effect. However, when the draw ratio is reduced, yarn breakage occurs due to ballooning in the normal pin-type false twisting method, and the twisting efficiency deteriorates due to the low tension in the friction type, which has disadvantages in terms of operation. . Further, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 4-214431 proposes a method of performing false twisting simply using a fluid swirl nozzle as a twisted body instead of a pin type or a friction type. However, with this method, although a slight deep dyeing effect is recognized, it is difficult to obtain a color depth comparable to that of natural fibers.
【０００５】[0005]
【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明は，このような
現状に鑑みて行われたものであり，容易に濃染化された
ポリエステル織編物を製造する方法を提供するものであ
る。SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and provides a method for easily producing a densely dyed polyester woven or knitted fabric.
【０００６】[0006]
【課題を解決するための手段】本発明は，上記課題を解
決するもので，次の構成よりなるものである。すなわち
本発明は，下記ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸条Ｘ
を供給糸として仮撚加工するに際し，施撚体として流体
旋回ノズルを用い，仮撚係数２００００以下，延伸倍率
1.０倍以下で，かつ加撚，解撚張力が前記糸条Ｘの最大
熱収縮応力以下の張力下で仮撚加工し，得られた嵩高加
工糸Ｙと，他の糸条Ｐを混繊加工した複合糸Ｑを主体と
して用いて製編織し，次いで，アルカリ処理して成分Ａ
の少なくとも一部を溶解除去し，しかる後に染色を行う
ことを特徴とする濃染織編物の製造方法を要旨とするも
のである。 糸条Ｘ−−−熱可塑性脂肪族ポリエステル成分Ａ２〜３
０重量部と，成分Ａよりもアルカリ水溶液に対する溶解
性が小さい繊維形成性ポリエステル成分Ｂ９８〜７０重
量部との混合物よりなる未延伸糸か，または該混合物と
成分Ｂよりなる未延伸糸であって，該混合物が繊維表面
の少なくとも一部を占める未延伸糸。SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned problems and has the following construction. That is, the present invention provides the following polyester multifilament yarn X
When performing false twisting as a supply yarn, using a fluid swirl nozzle as a twisted body, false twist coefficient 20,000 or less, draw ratio
False twisting is performed under 1.0 times or less and the twisting and untwisting tension is not more than the maximum heat shrinkage stress of the yarn X, and the obtained bulky processed yarn Y is mixed with another yarn P. Weaving and weaving mainly using the composite yarn Q that has been subjected to fiber processing,
The gist of the present invention is a method for producing a dark-dyeed woven or knitted fabric, which comprises dissolving and removing at least a part of the knitted fabric and then dyeing the solution. Yarn X --- Thermoplastic aliphatic polyester component A2-3
An undrawn yarn comprising a mixture of 0 parts by weight and 98 to 70 parts by weight of a fiber-forming polyester component B having a lower solubility in an aqueous alkali solution than the component A, or an undrawn yarn comprising the mixture and a component B; An undrawn yarn in which the mixture occupies at least a part of the fiber surface.
【０００７】[0007]
【発明の実施の形態】以下，本発明について詳細に説明
する。本発明方法では，まず熱可塑性脂肪族ポリエステ
ル成分Ａ２〜３０重量部と，成分Ａよりもアルカリ水溶
液に対する溶解性が小さい繊維形成性の良好な熱可塑性
ポリエステル成分Ｂ９８〜７０重量部との混合物よりな
る繊維か，または該混合物と成分Ｂよりなる繊維であっ
て，該混合物が繊維表面の少なくとも一部を占める未延
伸繊維糸条Ｘを用いる。BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. In the method of the present invention, first, a mixture of 2 to 30 parts by weight of the thermoplastic aliphatic polyester component A and 98 to 70 parts by weight of the thermoplastic polyester component B, which has a lower solubility in an alkaline aqueous solution than the component A and has a good fiber-forming property. An undrawn fiber yarn X, which is a fiber or a fiber comprising the mixture and the component B, wherein the mixture occupies at least a part of the fiber surface.
【０００８】本発明で糸条Ｘを構成する成分Ａとして用
いる熱可塑性脂肪族ポリエステルは３００℃以下の温度
で溶融可能で，かつアルカリ水溶液に対する溶解速度の
大きいものが用いられ，例えば，ポリブチレンサクシネ
ート，ポリエチレンサクシネート，ポリブチレンアジペ
ートまたはこれらの共重合体やポリ乳酸，ポリ−ε−カ
プロラクトン等を挙げることができる。また，本発明で
成分Ｂとして用いる繊維形成性の良好な熱可塑性ポリエ
ステルは，溶融紡糸法により容易に繊維化が可能で，ア
ルカリ水溶液に対する溶解速度が成分Ａの１／２以下の
ものが好ましく用いられる。このような熱可塑性ポリエ
ステルの具体例としては，ポリエチレンテレフタレー
ト，ポリブチレンテレフタレート，ポリプロピレンテレ
フタレートまたはこれらを主体とする共重合体もしくは
混合物を挙げることができる。The thermoplastic aliphatic polyester used as the component A constituting the yarn X in the present invention can be melted at a temperature of 300 ° C. or lower and has a high dissolution rate in an aqueous alkali solution. For example, polybutylene succinate is used. And polybutylene adipate or a copolymer thereof, polylactic acid, poly-ε-caprolactone, and the like. The thermoplastic polyester having good fiber-forming properties used as the component B in the present invention can be easily formed into fibers by a melt spinning method, and preferably has a dissolution rate in an aqueous alkali solution of 1/2 or less of that of the component A. Can be Specific examples of such a thermoplastic polyester include polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, and copolymers or mixtures containing these as a main component.
【０００９】本発明で用いる糸条Ｘとしては，上記成分
Ａと成分Ｂとからなる混合物を溶融紡糸して用いるが，
その際該混合物中の成分Ａと成分Ｂとの比率は，成分Ａ
が２〜３０重量部，成分Ｂが９８〜７０重量部となるよ
うにすることが必要である。成分Ａの比率が３０重量部
を超えると，製糸性が悪くなり，円滑な製糸を行うこと
が困難となり，あるいは得られた糸条の物性や品位が実
用に耐えられないものとなる。また，成分Ａの比率が２
重量部より少ない場合，本発明の目的とする濃染効果が
得られない。As the yarn X used in the present invention, a mixture comprising the above components A and B is melt-spun and used.
The ratio of component A to component B in the mixture is
Is required to be 2 to 30 parts by weight and the component B is 98 to 70 parts by weight. When the ratio of the component A exceeds 30 parts by weight, the spinning properties are deteriorated, and it is difficult to perform smooth spinning, or the physical properties and quality of the obtained yarn are not practical. When the ratio of the component A is 2
If the amount is less than the weight part, the deep dyeing effect intended by the present invention cannot be obtained.
【００１０】成分Ａと成分Ｂの混合物としては，両者を
あらかじめ溶融混合してマスターチップ化したもの，あ
るいはドライブレンドしたものを用いるとよい。本発明
で用いる繊維は，通常の溶融紡糸法によって製造するこ
とができるが，その際，紡出する繊維は，成分Ａと成分
Ｂとで構成された混合物のみからなる繊維や，芯成分を
成分Ｂとし，鞘成分を上記混合物とする芯鞘複合繊維の
ごとく，上記混合物が繊維表面全体を占める繊維でもよ
いし，上記混合物と成分Ｂとからなるサイドバイサイド
型複合繊維のごとく，上記混合物が繊維表面の一部を占
める繊維でもよい。As the mixture of the components A and B, it is preferable to use a mixture obtained by melt-mixing the components in advance and forming a master chip, or a mixture obtained by dry blending. The fiber used in the present invention can be produced by a usual melt spinning method. In this case, the fiber to be spun is a fiber consisting only of a mixture composed of the component A and the component B, or a fiber composed of a core component. B, and the mixture may be a fiber occupying the entire fiber surface, such as a core-sheath conjugate fiber having the above-described mixture as the sheath component, or the mixture may be a fiber having a fiber surface, such as a side-by-side conjugate fiber composed of the mixture and the component B. May be a fiber occupying a part of the fiber.
【００１１】次に，糸条Ｘの仮撚条件としては，未延伸
糸を延伸倍率1.０以下，つまり未延伸糸を延伸すること
なく仮撚加工を施すことが必要であり，特にオーバーフ
ィード状態で仮撚加工することが好ましい。未延伸糸を
延伸同時仮撚すると，繊維の配向度が進み，複屈折率
（Δｎ）が高くなって染着性が低下し，濃染効果を著し
く妨げるので好ましくない。そこで本発明では，未延伸
糸を延伸することなく仮撚加工を施す手段として，ピン
タイプやフリクションタイプの仮撚法ではなく，施撚体
として流体を利用した流体旋回ノズルを用いるものであ
る。この流体旋回ノズルを用いることにより未延伸糸を
延伸することなく仮撚加工を施すことが可能となる。Next, as the conditions for false twisting of the yarn X, it is necessary that the undrawn yarn is subjected to a false twisting process at a draw ratio of 1.0 or less, that is, without drawing the undrawn yarn. It is preferable to perform false twisting in the state. When the undrawn yarn is false-twisted at the same time as drawing, the degree of orientation of the fiber is advanced, the birefringence (Δn) is increased, the dyeing property is reduced, and the deep dyeing effect is significantly impaired. Therefore, in the present invention, as a means for performing the false twisting process without stretching the undrawn yarn, a fluid swirling nozzle using a fluid as a twisted body is used instead of a pin type or friction type false twist method. By using this fluid swirl nozzle, false twisting can be performed without stretching undrawn yarn.
【００１２】また，本発明方法における仮撚加工では，
加撚および解撚張力を未延伸糸の最大熱収縮応力以下で
仮撚加工を施すことが必須である。加撚，解撚張力を最
大熱収縮応力以下に維持すれば，未延伸糸が延伸されず
に低配向度のまま嵩高加工糸Ｙとなり，染料吸尽率の高
い糸条を得ることができる。さらに，本発明では，仮撚
係数２００００以下の仮撚数で仮撚加工を施すことが必
要である。仮撚係数が２００００を超えると，加撚によ
る繊維の捩じり作用が強くなり，繊維内部の構造が変化
して配向が進み，染着性の低下をきたすので好ましくな
い。また，本発明のような低い仮撚数であっても，供給
糸が未延伸糸であるため，熱セット性がよく，捲縮を十
分に付与することができる。ここでいう仮撚係数とは，
次式で算出した数値である。 Ｋ＝Ｔ×Ｄ1/2 ただし，Ｋ：仮撚係数 Ｔ：仮撚数（Ｔ／Ｍ） Ｄ：供給糸の繊度（デニール）[0012] In the false twist processing in the method of the present invention,
It is essential to perform false twisting at a twist and untwist tension of not more than the maximum heat shrinkage stress of the undrawn yarn. If the twisting and untwisting tensions are maintained at or below the maximum heat shrinkage stress, the undrawn yarn is not drawn and becomes a bulky processed yarn Y with a low degree of orientation, and a yarn having a high dye exhaustion rate can be obtained. Further, in the present invention, it is necessary to perform false twisting with a false twist number having a false twist coefficient of 20,000 or less. If the false twist coefficient exceeds 20,000, the twisting action of the fiber by twisting becomes strong, the structure inside the fiber changes, the orientation proceeds, and the dyeing property is undesirably reduced. Further, even if the number of false twists is low as in the present invention, since the supply yarn is an undrawn yarn, the heat setting property is good and the crimp can be sufficiently imparted. The false twist coefficient here is
It is a numerical value calculated by the following equation. K = T × D 1/2 , where K: false twist coefficient T: false twist number (T / M) D: fineness of feed yarn (denier)
【００１３】次に，本発明では，嵩高加工糸Ｙと他の糸
条Ｐとを混繊加工し，複合嵩高加工糸Ｑを得る。ここで
嵩高加工糸Ｙは，前記したごとく，最大熱収縮応力以下
に加撚，解撚張力を設定することで，未延伸糸が低張力
下で仮撚加工されるため，伸びやすいままの糸条になっ
ている。従って，後次工程での張力付加による不均一延
伸を防止し，さらには工程通過性を安定化する目的で，
伸度の安定した糸条Ｐと混繊加工することが必要であ
る。この混繊加工により，製編織時等の工程で受ける張
力に対し，糸条Ｐがその張力に抗するため，嵩高加工糸
Ｙ自体が伸びることのない複合糸Ｑが得られる。Next, in the present invention, the bulky processed yarn Y and another yarn P are mixed and processed to obtain a composite bulked processed yarn Q. Here, as described above, by setting the twisting and untwisting tension below the maximum heat shrinkage stress, the undrawn yarn is false-twisted under low tension, as described above, so that the yarn that is easily stretched remains stretchable. Article. Therefore, in order to prevent uneven stretching due to the application of tension in the subsequent process, and to stabilize processability,
It is necessary to perform a fiber mixing process with a yarn P having a stable elongation. By this blending process, the yarn P is resistant to the tension received in a process such as knitting or weaving, so that the composite yarn Q in which the bulky processed yarn Y itself does not elongate can be obtained.
【００１４】混繊加工に用いる他の糸条Ｐは，非捲縮糸
もしくは捲縮糸のいずれでも構わないが，糸条Ｐの伸度
は，嵩高加工糸Ｙよりも低伸度で，かつ伸度が４０％以
下が好ましい。混繊する糸条Ｐの伸度が４０％を超える
と，製編織時等の工程で受ける張力により糸条全体が伸
びやすくなり，品質の安定した布帛を得がたくなるので
好ましくない。また，混繊加工する手段としては，流体
噴射加工が経済的に好ましく，その場合，インタレース
ノズルやタスランノズル等を用いればよい。The other yarn P used for the fiber blending processing may be either a non-crimped yarn or a crimped yarn, but the elongation of the yarn P is lower than that of the bulky processed yarn Y, and The elongation is preferably 40% or less. If the elongation of the yarn P to be mixed exceeds 40%, it is not preferable because the entire yarn is easily stretched due to the tension applied in a process such as knitting or weaving, and it becomes difficult to obtain a fabric having stable quality. As a means for blending, fluid jetting is economically preferable. In that case, an interlace nozzle, a Taslan nozzle, or the like may be used.
【００１５】上述の糸の加工を図面で説明すると，次の
ようになる。図１は，本発明で行う糸加工の実施態様を
示す側面見取図である。図１において糸条（Ｘ）１は，
供給ローラ２で供給ローラ２と引取ローラ５の間の仮撚
加工域に供給され，流体旋回ノズル４で加撚され，ヒー
タ３で熱セットされた後，第１引取ローラ５により流体
処理域に導かれる。続いて，仮撚後の糸条は，供給ロー
ラ１０で供給された糸条（Ｙ）９とともに流体噴射ノズ
ル７によって流体噴射加工が施され，次いで，第２引取
ローラ６を経て，パッケージ８に複合糸Ｑとして捲き取
られる。The above-described yarn processing will be described with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a side view showing an embodiment of the yarn processing performed in the present invention. In FIG. 1, the yarn (X) 1 is
After being supplied to the false twisting area between the supply roller 2 and the take-up roller 5 by the supply roller 2, twisted by the fluid swirling nozzle 4 and heat-set by the heater 3, the first take-up roller 5 enters the fluid treatment area. Be guided. Subsequently, the yarn after false twisting is subjected to fluid ejection processing by the fluid ejection nozzle 7 together with the yarn (Y) 9 supplied by the supply roller 10, and then to the package 8 via the second take-off roller 6. It is wound up as a composite yarn Q.
【００１６】本発明では，上記複合糸Ｑを用いて製織ま
たは製編し，織編物を構成する。ここでいう織編物とし
ては，上記複合糸Ｑを１００％用いた織編物でもよい
が，本発明の目的とする濃染効果を阻害しない範囲であ
れば，上記複合糸Ｑと他の糸条との交織，交編物であっ
ても一向に差し支えない。In the present invention, weaving or knitting is performed using the composite yarn Q to form a woven or knitted fabric. The woven or knitted fabric referred to herein may be a woven or knitted fabric using the above-described composite yarn Q at 100%, but the composite yarn Q and other yarns may be used as long as the objective dyeing effect of the present invention is not impaired. Even if it is a cross-woven or cross-knitted fabric, there is no problem.
【００１７】本発明では，上述のごとくして得られた織
編物をアルカリ処理して，成分Ａの少なくとも一部を溶
解除去する。溶解除去の程度は，使用する成分Ａと成分
Ｂとの混合比や，得られる糸の強度により異なるが，一
般には糸条Ｘに含有せしめた成分Ａの含有量に対して４
０〜１００％除去することが好ましい。除去率が４０％
未満の場合には，本発明の目的とする濃染効果が得られ
難くなる場合があるので好ましくない。ここでアルカリ
処理に使用するアルカリ化合物としては，水酸化ナトリ
ウム，水酸化カリウム，炭酸ナトリウム，炭酸カリウ
ム，ナトリウムメチラート等を挙げることができ，中で
も，経済性の点より水酸化ナトリウムが特に好ましい。
アルカリ化合物の使用量は，使用するアルカリ化合物の
種類，成分Ａの種類，処理条件により異なるが，通常0.
１〜５０ｇ／リットルの範囲が好ましい。また，処理条
件としては，通常，温度が室温〜１００℃の範囲，時間
が１分〜４時間の範囲にあることが好ましい。In the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric obtained as described above is treated with an alkali to dissolve and remove at least a part of the component A. The degree of dissolution and removal depends on the mixing ratio of the component A and the component B used and the strength of the obtained yarn, but is generally 4 to the content of the component A contained in the yarn X.
It is preferable to remove 0 to 100%. 40% removal rate
If the amount is less than the above range, it may be difficult to obtain the desired deep-dyeing effect of the present invention. Here, examples of the alkali compound used for the alkali treatment include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium methylate and the like. Among them, sodium hydroxide is particularly preferable from the viewpoint of economy.
The amount of the alkaline compound used depends on the type of the alkaline compound used, the type of the component A, and the processing conditions, but is usually 0.1%.
A range from 1 to 50 g / l is preferred. The processing conditions are preferably such that the temperature is usually in the range of room temperature to 100 ° C. and the time is in the range of 1 minute to 4 hours.
【００１８】本発明では，アルカリ処理後の織編物を染
色する。ここで行う染色は，通常行われている公知のポ
リエステル繊維の染色方法を用いればよい。また，必要
に応じて染色後，帯電防止加工，吸水加工，撥水加工等
の後加工を行っても一向に差し支えない。本発明は，以
上の構成よりなるものである。In the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric after the alkali treatment is dyed. The dyeing performed here may be performed by using a commonly known dyeing method for polyester fibers. Further, if necessary, post-processing such as antistatic processing, water absorbing processing, and water repellent processing can be performed after dyeing. The present invention has the above configuration.
【００１９】[0019]
【作用】本発明方法で用いる複合糸Ｑを構成する糸条の
一部は，上記のごとく，アルカリ溶解速度の異なる２種
のポリマーからなる混合物が繊維表面の少なくとも一部
に配置せしめられた繊維からなり，アルカリ処理によっ
てアルカリ溶解速度の速い成分Ａの少なくとも一部が溶
解除去されることにより，繊維表面に無数の筋状細孔
（繊維軸方向：２〜２０μｍ，繊維軸に垂直方向：0.０
１〜0.５μｍ）が発現する点に特徴を有している。従来
より，繊維表面に微細孔を形成せしめる技術は公知であ
り，例えば，ポリエステル繊維をプラズマエッチング処
理する方法等が提案されているが，このような公知の方
法で得られる微細孔は，いずれも直径0.５μｍ以下の半
球状のくぼみであって，この場合，繊維の表面粗化効果
は認められるものの，深色化の程度については一定の限
度があり，天然繊維並みの色の深みを得ることは困難で
あった。As described above, a part of the yarn constituting the composite yarn Q used in the method of the present invention is a fiber in which a mixture of two polymers having different alkali dissolution rates is disposed on at least a part of the fiber surface. By dissolving and removing at least a part of the component A having a high alkali dissolution rate by the alkali treatment, numerous streaky pores (fiber axis direction: 2 to 20 μm, perpendicular to the fiber axis: 0) are formed on the fiber surface. .0
1 to 0.5 μm). Conventionally, a technique for forming micropores on the fiber surface is known. For example, a method of plasma-etching polyester fibers has been proposed. However, any of the micropores obtained by such a known method has been proposed. A hemispherical depression with a diameter of 0.5 μm or less. In this case, although the surface roughening effect of the fiber is recognized, there is a certain limit to the degree of deepening, and a color depth similar to that of natural fiber is obtained. It was difficult.
【００２０】本発明で用いる繊維からなる織編物が何故
に濃染効果を発揮することができるのか，その理由は定
かではないが，まず，本発明方法で形成せしめた前述の
筋状細孔の方が，従来のプラズマエッチング法等により
得られる半球状のくぼみに比べて繊維表面での光の反射
率を低下させる効果が著しく大きいため，濃染効果が向
上するものと考えられる。これに加えて，本発明で用い
る仮撚加工方法によって，供給糸である未延伸糸（糸条
Ｘ）の繊維配向度の進行が極力抑えられて染着性が向上
し，その上特定の仮撚加工による微捲縮形態から生ずる
フィラメント群の複雑な屈曲による乱反射の減少との相
乗効果により，濃染性に優れた嵩高加工糸が得られ，こ
のような嵩高加工糸は，前述のポリマー成分からなる供
給糸（糸条Ｘ）の特性と前述の仮撚加工条件の複合効果
によって，濃染性が著しく向上するものと考えられる。The reason why the woven or knitted fabric made of the fibers used in the present invention can exert the deep dyeing effect is not clear, but first, the above-mentioned streaky pores formed by the method of the present invention are first used. It is thought that the deep dyeing effect is improved because the effect of lowering the light reflectance on the fiber surface is significantly larger than the hemispherical dent obtained by the conventional plasma etching method or the like. In addition, the false twist processing method used in the present invention minimizes the progress of the degree of fiber orientation of the undrawn yarn (yarn X), which is the supply yarn, and improves the dyeing property. The synergistic effect with the reduction of irregular reflection due to the complicated bending of the filament group resulting from the fine crimped form due to the twisting process can provide a bulky processed yarn excellent in deep dyeing properties. It is thought that the deep dyeing property is remarkably improved by the combined effect of the characteristics of the supply yarn (yarn X) composed of and the above-described false twist processing conditions.
【００２１】[0021]
【実施例】次に，本発明を実施例によってさらに具体的
に説明するが，実施例における織編物の性能の測定，評
価は，下記の方法で行った。 （１）Ｌ* 値 色彩色差計ＣＲ−１１０（ミノルタカメラ株式会社製）
を用いて測色し，Ｌ* 値を求めて評価した。Ｌ* 値は，
数値が小さいほど濃染効果が優れていることを示す。EXAMPLES Next, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples. The measurement and evaluation of the performance of the woven or knitted fabric in the examples were performed by the following methods. (1) L * value Colorimeter CR-110 (Minolta Camera Co., Ltd.)
Was used to measure the color, and the L * value was determined and evaluated. The L * value is
The smaller the value, the better the deep dyeing effect.
【００２２】実施例１〜３ 成分Ａとして相対粘度が1.５５（フェノールと四塩化エ
タンとの等重合混合物を溶媒とし，濃度0.５ｇ／デシリ
ットル，温度２０℃で測定）のポリブチレンサクシネー
ト，成分Ｂとして相対粘度1.３８（同上）のポリエチレ
ンテレフタレートを用い，表１に示す混合重量比で混合
し，溶融紡糸を行った。このとき紡糸温度を２８０℃と
し，速度１４００ｍ／分にて引き取り，続いて，延伸温
度１６０℃，延伸倍率2.８倍，速度７４０ｍ／分で延伸
を行い，延伸部分を残した未延伸マルチフィラメント糸
条Ｘ１１０ｄ／３６ｆを得た。Examples 1 to 3 Polybutylene succinate having a relative viscosity of 1.55 (measured at a concentration of 0.5 g / deciliter at a temperature of 20 ° C., using an equipolymerized mixture of phenol and ethane tetrachloride as a solvent) as Component A The components B were mixed with polyethylene terephthalate having a relative viscosity of 1.38 (same as above) at a mixing weight ratio shown in Table 1 and melt-spun. At this time, the spinning temperature is set to 280 ° C. and the drawing is performed at a speed of 1400 m / min. Then, the drawing is performed at a drawing temperature of 160 ° C., a draw ratio of 2.8 and a speed of 740 m / min. Yarn X110d / 36f was obtained.
【００２３】得られた各糸条Ｘを図１の供給糸１とし，
通常のポリエチレンテレフタレートマルチフィラメント
糸条５０ｄ／４８ｆ（Ｐ）を供給糸９として，図１に示
す加工手順に従って，表１に示す条件で複合嵩高加工糸
を得た。得られた複合嵩高加工糸を用いて筒編地を編成
し，次いで，濃度２０ｇ／リットルの水酸化ナトリウム
水溶液（液温９８℃）でアルカリ減量加工し，成分Ａの
少なくとも一部を除去した。引き続きDianix Back ＨＧ
−ＦＳ（三菱化学社製）１５％owf にて黒色に染色加工
し，本発明方法による濃染化編物を得た。Each of the obtained yarns X is referred to as a supply yarn 1 in FIG.
Using a normal polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn 50d / 48f (P) as the supply yarn 9, according to the processing procedure shown in FIG. A tubular knitted fabric was knitted using the obtained composite bulked yarn, and then subjected to alkali weight reduction with a 20 g / liter sodium hydroxide aqueous solution (liquid temperature: 98 ° C.) to remove at least a part of the component A. Continue with Dianix Back HG
-FS (manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation) was dyed black with 15% owf to obtain a densely dyed knitted fabric according to the method of the present invention.
【００２４】本発明との比較のため，下記比較例１〜７
により比較用の編物７点を得た。 比較例１〜６ 実施例１において，糸条Ｘを表１の比較例１〜６の欄に
示す混合重量比でそれぞれ混合し，溶融紡糸して得たマ
ルチフィラメント糸を供給糸とし，図１に示す加工手順
に従って，表１に示す条件で複合嵩高加工を行う他は，
実施例１とまったく同一の方法により比較用の筒編地６
点を得た。For comparison with the present invention, the following Comparative Examples 1 to 7
As a result, seven knitted fabrics for comparison were obtained. Comparative Examples 1 to 6 In Example 1, the multifilament yarn obtained by mixing the yarns X in the mixing weight ratios shown in the columns of Comparative Examples 1 to 6 in Table 1 and melt-spinning was used as a supply yarn. According to the processing procedure shown in Table 1, the composite bulky processing is performed under the conditions shown in Table 1.
A tubular knitted fabric 6 for comparison was produced in exactly the same manner as in Example 1.
Got points.
【００２５】比較例７ 比較例５において得られた複合嵩高加工糸を筒編地に編
成後，染色前に下記低温プラズマ条件にてプラズマエッ
チング処理を行う他は，比較例５とまったく同一の方法
により比較用の筒編地を得た。 ＜低温プラズマ処理条件＞ 処理ガス ： 酸 素 ガス流量 ： １００ミリリットル／分 圧 力 ： 1.０Torr 高周波周波数 ： １3.５６ＭHz 高周波出力 ： 0.４ｗ／cm2 処理時間 ： 2.５分Comparative Example 7 Except that after knitting the composite bulked yarn obtained in Comparative Example 5 into a tubular knitted fabric and performing a plasma etching treatment under the following low-temperature plasma conditions before dyeing, the same method as in Comparative Example 5 is used. As a result, a tubular knitted fabric for comparison was obtained. <Low-temperature plasma processing conditions> Processing gas: oxygen Gas flow rate: 100 ml / min Pressure: 1.0 Torr High frequency frequency: 13.56 MHz High frequency output: 0.4 w / cm 2 Processing time: 2.5 minutes
【００２６】上述の比較例の他に，さらに本実施例にお
いて，用いた成分Ａと成分Ｂとの混合重量比１０／９０
（＝成分Ａ／成分Ｂ）に代えて４０／６０とし，マルチ
フィラメントの紡糸を試みたが，糸切れが多発し，正常
なマルチフィラメント糸が得られなかった。上述のごと
くして得られた本実施例および比較用の筒編地の性能を
測定し，その結果を合わせて表１に示した。In addition to the comparative example described above, in this example, the mixing weight ratio of component A and component B used was 10/90.
(= Component A / Component B) was set to 40/60, and multifilament spinning was attempted. However, thread breakage occurred frequently, and a normal multifilament yarn could not be obtained. The performances of this example and the comparative tubular knitted fabric obtained as described above were measured, and the results are shown in Table 1.
【００２７】[0027]
【表１】 [Table 1]
【００２８】実施例１〜３は，いずれも糸条Ｘの混合重
量比が本発明の範囲内にあり，Ｌ＊値が１１．０以下で
あって，優れた濃染効果を示した。一方，比較例１につ
いては，旋回加工を施していないため，Ｌ* 値が１1.４
となり，濃染効果に劣っていた。比較例２と比較例５に
ついては，糸条Ｘの混合重量比が本発明の範囲外にあ
り，濃染効果が得られなかった。比較例３については延
伸倍率が本発明の範囲外にあり，濃染効果が得られなか
った。比較例４については，仮撚係数が本発明の範囲外
にあり，濃染効果が得られなかった。比較例６について
は，アルカリ減量加工を行わなかったため濃染効果が得
られなかった。また，比較例７は，比較例５にプラズマ
加工を施したにもかかわらず，Ｌ* 値が１1.８にとどま
り，濃染効果は得られなかった。Ｌ* 値が１1.０以下で
あれば，天然繊維並みあるいはそれ以上の濃染効果を有
しており，本発明方法（実施例１〜３）で得られる複合
嵩高加工糸は，表１に見られるように，Ｌ* 値が9.８〜
１0.２であり，極めて優れた濃染効果を有している。In all of Examples 1 to 3, the mixing weight ratio of the yarn X was within the range of the present invention, and the L * value was 11.0 or less, showing an excellent deep dyeing effect. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1, since the turning process was not performed, the L * value was 11.4.
It was inferior to the deep dyeing effect. In Comparative Example 2 and Comparative Example 5, the mixing weight ratio of the yarn X was out of the range of the present invention, and no deep dyeing effect was obtained. In Comparative Example 3, the stretching ratio was out of the range of the present invention, and no deep dyeing effect was obtained. In Comparative Example 4, the false twist coefficient was out of the range of the present invention, and no deep dyeing effect was obtained. In Comparative Example 6, no deep dyeing effect was obtained because no alkali weight reduction processing was performed. In Comparative Example 7, the L * value remained at 11.8 even though Comparative Example 5 was subjected to the plasma processing, and no deep dyeing effect was obtained. When the L * value is 11.0 or less, it has a deep dyeing effect equal to or higher than that of natural fibers. As you can see, the L * value is between 9.8 and
10.2, which has an extremely excellent deep-dyeing effect.
【００２９】[0029]
【発明の効果】本発明方法によれば，濃染化されたポリ
エステル繊維織編物を製造することができる。According to the method of the present invention, it is possible to produce a densely woven and knitted polyester fiber fabric.
【図１】本発明の織編物に用いる糸条の加工の実施態様
を示す概略側面見取図である。FIG. 1 is a schematic side view showing an embodiment of processing of a yarn used for a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.
１ 糸条Ｘ ３ ヒーター ４ 流体旋回ノズル ７ 流体噴射ノズル ８ パッケージ ９ 糸条Ｙ DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Yarn X 3 Heater 4 Fluid swirl nozzle 7 Fluid ejection nozzle 8 Package 9 Yarn
───────────────────────────────────────────────────── フロントページの続き (51)Int.Cl.6 識別記号 ＦＩ Ｄ０６Ｐ 5/00 ＤＢＣ Ｄ０６Ｐ 5/00 １０５ １０５ Ｄ０６Ｍ 5/02 Ｇ ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. 6 Identification code FI D06P 5/00 DBC D06P 5/00 105 105 D06M 5/02 G
Claims (1)
条Ｘを供給糸として仮撚加工するに際し，施撚体として
流体旋回ノズルを用い，仮撚係数２００００以下，延伸
倍率1.０倍以下で，かつ加撚，解撚張力が前記糸条Ｘの
最大熱収縮応力以下の張力下で仮撚加工し，得られた嵩
高加工糸Ｙと，他の糸条Ｐを混繊加工した複合糸Ｑを主
体として用いて製編織し，次いで，アルカリ処理して成
分Ａの少なくとも一部を溶解除去し，しかる後に染色を
行うことを特徴とする濃染織編物の製造方法。 糸条Ｘ−−−熱可塑性脂肪族ポリエステル成分Ａ２〜３
０重量部と，成分Ａよりもアルカリ水溶液に対する溶解
性が小さい繊維形成性ポリエステル成分Ｂ９８〜７０重
量部との混合物よりなる未延伸糸か，または該混合物と
成分Ｂよりなる未延伸糸であって，該混合物が繊維表面
の少なくとも一部を占める未延伸糸。1. When performing false twisting as a supply yarn using the following polyester multifilament yarn X, a fluid swirling nozzle is used as a twisted body, a false twist coefficient of 20,000 or less, a draw ratio of 1.0 or less, and twisting. The bulky-processed yarn Y obtained by performing false twisting under a tension whose untwisting tension is equal to or less than the maximum heat shrinkage stress of the yarn X, and a composite yarn Q obtained by blending another yarn P are mainly used. Knitting and weaving, and then alkali treatment to dissolve and remove at least a part of the component A, followed by dyeing. Yarn X --- Thermoplastic aliphatic polyester component A2-3
An undrawn yarn comprising a mixture of 0 parts by weight and 98 to 70 parts by weight of a fiber-forming polyester component B having a lower solubility in an aqueous alkali solution than the component A, or an undrawn yarn comprising the mixture and a component B; An undrawn yarn in which the mixture occupies at least a part of the fiber surface.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP8262743A JPH10110341A (en) | 1996-10-03 | 1996-10-03 | Production of deeply dyed woven or knitted fabric |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP8262743A JPH10110341A (en) | 1996-10-03 | 1996-10-03 | Production of deeply dyed woven or knitted fabric |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPH10110341A true JPH10110341A (en) | 1998-04-28 |
Family
ID=17379973
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP8262743A Pending JPH10110341A (en) | 1996-10-03 | 1996-10-03 | Production of deeply dyed woven or knitted fabric |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JPH10110341A (en) |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2006152499A (en) * | 2004-11-30 | 2006-06-15 | Unitica Fibers Ltd | Polylactate processed yarn and its production method |
| JP2007016356A (en) * | 2005-07-08 | 2007-01-25 | Unitika Textiles Ltd | Knitted and woven fabric of hollow spun yarn and method for producing the same |
-
1996
- 1996-10-03 JP JP8262743A patent/JPH10110341A/en active Pending
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2006152499A (en) * | 2004-11-30 | 2006-06-15 | Unitica Fibers Ltd | Polylactate processed yarn and its production method |
| JP4553703B2 (en) * | 2004-11-30 | 2010-09-29 | ユニチカトレーディング株式会社 | Woven knitted fabric and method for producing the woven and knitted fabric |
| JP2007016356A (en) * | 2005-07-08 | 2007-01-25 | Unitika Textiles Ltd | Knitted and woven fabric of hollow spun yarn and method for producing the same |
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