JPS621020B2 - - Google Patents

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】[Detailed description of the invention]

本発明は既製服素材、特に異なるロツト間にお
ける色相差が殆んどなく、既製フオーマルウエア
用として上下各衣の組合せに有利な朱子織物なら
びにその製造方法に関するものである。 既製フオーマルウエア用織物は梳毛織物中でも
高級品として知られ、経緯に梳毛糸を用いた五枚
朱子組織を用い、織上げ後、黒無地に布染めし、
縮絨、起毛後、剪毛して表面を滑らかに手触り柔
かく仕上げたものが使用されているが、従来のか
かる織物は布染めする関係上、ロツトが変われば
色相に変化を生じ、統一された色相を得ることが
困難であつた。即ち、通常使用される前記梳毛糸
は一般に60〜72番手双糸とか、52番手単糸という
比較的細番手の梳毛糸であり、これを色相統一を
図るべく羊毛スライバー状としてケンスに充填
し、バンプ巻きを作成し、バンプ染色を行なうに
は従来の染色手段では技術的に不可能ではないに
しても、その後の精紡工程での糸切れが多くな
り、たとえ無理をして糸に形成し得たとしても原
糸欠点が多く、強伸度に難があることから製織時
の欠点発生を惹起するので、結局、仕方なく、生
地糸として紡糸し、その色付けは布染め（反染
め）に依存している状況である。 そのため、若し、かかる反物を利用してフオー
マルウエアを作成しようとする場合には我々が日
常、経験している如く、同一ロツト即ち同一反物
を用いて上衣と下衣を作成するのでなければ両者
の色相は合致せず、従つて、上衣又は下衣の何れ
か一方が損傷し、あるいは体形に適合しなくなつ
たとしても必らず、上下両衣を改めて作り直さな
ければならないという不便を醸し出している。 これは又、現代の合理的風潮に対応し、漸次、
既製化されつつある既製服業界において消費者に
とつては極めて不経済なことであり、その理想像
として全国何れの場所においても上下何れの衣服
が損傷又は不適合になつたときでも容易に他の残
りの適合衣服を調製できることが希求されてい
る。 そこで、本発明者等は上述の如き時代の要求に
対応し、改めて、フオーマルウエア用朱子織物の
実態について検討を試み、先ず、その後の染色技
術の著しい進展を加味して、均一な染色に好適な
スライバー染色を含めて研究を行なつたところ、
本出願人が別途開発した省エネルギー無人染色シ
ステムを導入し、低浴比染色を行なえば染色時の
液流を非常に穏やかに、かつ少なくしても染斑が
発生せず均一に染色することが可能であることを
見出し、同時に染色時の繊維の形状を「トツプ」
より「バンプ」に変えることにより染液の流れ方
向を繊維と垂直方向から水平方向に変えることで
染液による染色時の繊維への物理的力による損傷
を減少し、かつ、更に低温染色助剤を開発し、こ
れを適用して低温染色を行なうことで繊維への損
傷を減少することを知り、結局、従来の通常のト
ツプ染めに比し強力で20〜25％、伸度で35〜50％
の向上を得て精紡工程での糸切れを70〜80％ダウ
ンさせ、生地糸と殆んど大差のない性状のトツプ
染糸を充分製造し得ることを知見した。 かくて、これによつてスライバー染色の難問を
解決し、前記理想像への一歩前進を得たが、更に
前記スライバー染色に対応し、羊毛を主体とする
朱子織物の仕上げに第２の難関が存在した。 そこで、引続き、あらゆる場所においても均一
な色相を得て、相互に適合し合う上衣又は下衣を
作成できる朱子織物の性状と、かかる性状を得る
に適合した仕上手段について検討を重ねた。 一般に羊毛を主体とする織物、即ち絨布の製造
工程において最も重要かつ微妙な工程は仕上工程
であり、該工程の管理如何によつて得られる絨布
の品質、性状が著しく左右されることは周知の通
りである。 この仕上工程は通常、ガス焼、煮絨、洗絨、プ
レス、乾絨等の各処理工程から成り立つており、
絨種により前記各処理工程を適宜に選択、組み合
わせて実施しているが、なかでも最も影響の大き
いものは煮絨工程である。 煮絨工程は、絨布の繊維集合性を向上させると
共に、絨布内各部の応力緩和を進め風合、寸法安
定性を向上することを目的としており、従来のバ
ツチ式煮絨装置に代り、最近、作業の省力化、高
速化を図るため連続煮絨機が提案され、実用に供
されている。 本出願人においてもかかる連続煮絨処理に関し
以前より研究が進められ、従来のバツチ式あるい
は連続煮絨処理を改善するものとして、例えば、
特公昭55−42183号公報にその方法が開示されて
いる。 この方法は、絨布に含水せしめ、移動する加熱
体表面と、弾性体シートとの間に挾持して均一な
面圧と熱を付与し、次いで実質的に無拘束状態で
含水せしめると共に、30℃以下に冷却して充分に
収縮せしめ、次いで低張力を保ちつつ、再び移動
する加熱体表面と弾性体シートとの間に挾持して
均一な面圧と熱を付与する方法で、湿潤した絨布
を加圧圧縮した状態で均一加熱することによる圧
縮変形による応力と、布帛中に内在していた内部
残留応力の緩和操作と、羊毛繊維の最も低い二次
転移点（30℃）以下に急速冷却することによるセ
ツト安定化操作を繰り返し実施すること、及び冷
却時に無拘束状態で充分に収縮を発現させること
により煮絨効果として求められる絨布集合性、応
力緩和を短時間で促進し、従来の連続煮絨処理で
は得られなかつた絨布特性を確保し、かつ従来の
バツチ方式で得られなかつた厚み面積収縮率、風
合の内外むらの解消を図つたものである。 この連続煮絨方式は極めて効果的な処理方式で
あり、本出願人は前記改善されたスライバー染色
による梳毛糸織物にこれを適用すべく、煮絨仕上
げを試みたところ、驚くべきことに、前記スライ
バーによる低温バンプ染色を行なつた羊毛繊維か
らなる60番手以上の細い梳毛糸使用の朱子織物は
各ロツト間における色相差が高々0.5、通常、0.3
程度に抑えられ、その単位長さ当りの剛性も向上
することが判明した。 かかる結果を生じた理由は、煮絨処理工程での
絨布の挙動から、ある程度、煮絨処理の態様が深
く関連していることが推測されるが、結果的に見
て何れの朱子織物においてもそのUB溶解度が他
の従来の織物に比較し高い値を示していることが
重要な因子であることが看取された。 即ち、本発明の目的は、ロツトを異にした場合
においても互いの色相差が少なく、相互の反物に
よるフオーマルウエアの組合せを可能とするフオ
ーマルウエア用濃色既製服素材を提供することに
ある。 又、本発明は前記の如きフオーマルウエア用濃
色既製服素材を工業的に、かつ高能率に生産し得
る、染色より絨布の仕上工程に至る一連の方法を
提供することを目的とする。 かくして、本発明は究極において、従来の既製
フオーマルウエアのあり方を改善し、消費者に喜
ばれる経済的、かつ合理的な既製フオーマルウエ
アを提供することにその目的を有する。 しかして、かかる目的に適合する本発明の第１
の発明は、クロム染料により濃色に染色された、
少くとも60番手以上の細い梳毛糸を経糸及び緯糸
に用いて製織してなる朱子織物であつて、JIS Ｌ
1081−1971によつて測定されるUB溶解度が13
以上である素材であり、又、第２の発明は前記素
材を製造するための具体的な染色、絨布仕上工程
を含む一連の方法即ち、クロム染料により90℃以
下の温度で染色した羊毛スライバーを用いて60番
手以上の細い梳毛糸を作成し、該梳毛糸により朱
子織物を製織した後、該朱子織物に含水せしめ、
移動する加熱体表面と弾性シートの間に挾持して
その間、均一な面圧と熱を付与し、次いで実質的
に無拘束状態で含水せしめると共に30℃以下に冷
却して充分に収縮せしめ、その後、更に低張力を
保ちつつ再び移動する加熱体表面と弾性体シート
との間に挾持して均一な面圧と熱を付与して連続
煮絨処理を施し、爾後、洗絨と、前記同様の煮絨
処理を１回又は複数回繰り返した後、常法により
蒸絨し仕上げ処理する方法である。 ここで、JIS Ｌ 1081−1971によつて測定され
るUB溶解度（尿素、重亜硫酸ソーダ溶解度）と
は羊毛の側鎖結合の変化を表わす指数で、通常、
クロム染料による染色物の繊維損傷を示す特性値
として羊毛の染色加工業界において強伸度、酸・
アルカリ溶解度と並んで重要な特性を表すもので
あり、具体的には次の如き方法によつて測定され
る。 UB溶解度（尿素、重亜硫酸ソーダ溶解度） 沸騰している蒸留水に尿素50ｇを溶解し、メタ
重亜硫酸ナトリウム３ｇを加えてのち冷却し、さ
らに２mlの5N水酸化ナトリウム溶液を添加し、
蒸留水で薄めて100mlにする（PHを7.0±0.1に調
整する）。油脂分、植物質、きよう雑物を含まな
い試料の異なる箇所から、絶乾重量測定用として
約１ｇの試験試料を１個、UB溶解度測定用とし
て約１ｇの試験試料を２個採取し（試料が糸ある
いは布の場合は約１cm長さの糸に分解して試験試
料を調製する）、100mlの尿素、重亜硫酸ナトリウ
ム液を入れた有せんフラスコ中に１個の試験試料
を入れ65±0.5℃に調節した湯せん器上で15分ご
とに約５秒ずつ静かに振とうし、60分後に吸引ろ
過したのち残さを10mlの尿素溶液（尿素25ｇ／
100ml）で３回洗い、つぎに蒸留水で６回洗浄す
る。その後るつぼに移した残さを105±２℃で乾
燥絶乾重量を求める。UB溶解度は試験試料の重
量減を処理前の絶乾重量に対する重量割合（％）
で表わし、つぎの式により算出し、２回の平均値
で表わす（小数点以下１けたまで）。 (1) 酸を含まない試料の場合 UB溶解度（％）＝ｗ_１−ｗ_２／ｗ_１×100 ここに w₁：試験試料の絶乾重量（ｇ） w₂：残さの絶乾重量（ｇ） (2) 酸を含む試料の場合（PH4.0以下の場合） UB溶解度（％）＝（Ｓ−ｓ）１００／１００−ｓ ここに Ｓ：補正前のUB溶解度（％） ｓ：硫酸の含有率（％） 以下、更に上記本発明について順次、その具体
的な態様を説明する。 先ず、本発明素材に使用される梳毛糸は60番手
以上、好ましくは70番手以上の細い梳毛糸であ
る。勿論、従来のフオーマルウエア用梳毛糸とし
ても60〜72番手双糸が用いられており、これ以下
では実質上、フオーマルウエア用素材に適さない
ことは云う迄もないが、本発明の場合において
は、前記梳毛糸は特にスライダーの形態において
濃色に染色された羊毛スライバーによつて作成さ
れる。 即ち、通常の工程によつて得た羊毛スライバー
を、そのスライバー形態において連続オーバーセ
ンターコイリングモーシヨンにより均一にケンス
内に充填してバンプ巻きを作成したのち、かかる
バンプに対しクロム染料を用い、90℃以下の高圧
バンプ染色を施し、前記梳毛糸を作る羊毛スライ
バーとするのである。この場合の染色具体的条件
は列記すると次の通りである。 The present invention relates to a material for ready-made clothing, particularly a satin fabric that has almost no difference in hue between different lots and is advantageous for combinations of upper and lower garments for ready-made formal wear, and a method for producing the same. Ready-made fabrics for formal wear are known as high-quality among worsted fabrics, using a five-ply satin weave using worsted yarn for the weft, and after weaving, the fabric is dyed to a plain black color.
The fabric used is full-length, brushed, and sheared to give a smooth, soft-touch surface, but because conventional fabrics are dyed, the hue changes when the lot changes, resulting in a uniform hue. It was difficult to obtain That is, the commonly used worsted yarns are generally relatively fine-count worsted yarns such as 60 to 72 count double yarn or 52 count single yarn, which are filled into a can in the form of wool slivers in order to unify the hue. Although it is not technically impossible to create bump windings and perform bump dyeing using conventional dyeing methods, it increases the number of yarn breakages during the subsequent spinning process, and even if the formation of bumps is forced into the yarn, Even if obtained, the raw yarn has many defects and has difficulty in strength and elongation, which causes defects during weaving, so in the end, it has no choice but to be spun into fabric yarn, and the coloring is done by fabric dyeing (anti-dyeing). It is a dependent situation. Therefore, when attempting to create formal wear using such cloth, as we have experienced on a daily basis, unless the upper and lower garments are made from the same lot, that is, the same cloth, both The hues of the upper and lower garments do not match, creating the inconvenience that even if either the upper or lower garment becomes damaged or no longer fits the body shape, both must be remade. There is. This also corresponds to the modern rational trend, and gradually
This is extremely uneconomical for consumers in the ready-made clothing industry, which is becoming more and more ready-made, and the ideal situation is that in any location in the country, if either the upper or lower garment becomes damaged or unfit, it is easy to replace it with another garment. It would be desirable to be able to prepare remaining conforming garments. Therefore, in response to the demands of the times as described above, the present inventors once again attempted to examine the actual state of satin fabrics for formal wear, and first, taking into account the remarkable progress in dyeing technology since then, we found that satin fabrics are suitable for uniform dyeing. When conducting research including sliver staining,
Introducing an energy-saving unmanned dyeing system developed separately by the applicant, and performing low bath ratio dyeing, the liquid flow during dyeing can be very gentle and even if the flow is reduced, no staining occurs and uniform dyeing can be achieved. At the same time, we discovered that it is possible to “top” the shape of the fiber during dyeing.
By changing the flow direction of the dye liquor from perpendicular to the fibers to horizontal direction by changing the flow direction to a "bump", damage caused by physical force to the fibers during dyeing with the dye liquor is reduced, and furthermore, it is possible to reduce the damage caused by physical force to the fibers when dyeing with the dye liquor. Developed this technology and found that applying it to low-temperature dyeing could reduce damage to the fibers.In the end, it was 20-25% stronger and 35-50% more elongated than conventional top dyeing. %
It has been found that by improving this, yarn breakage in the spinning process can be reduced by 70 to 80%, and it is possible to sufficiently produce top-dyed yarn with properties that are almost the same as textile yarn. In this way, we have solved the difficult problem of sliver dyeing and taken a step forward toward the ideal image, but we have also encountered a second difficulty in finishing satin fabrics, which are mainly made of wool, in response to sliver dyeing. Were present. Therefore, we continued to study the properties of satin fabric that can produce uniform hues everywhere and create mutually compatible upper or lower garments, as well as finishing methods suitable for achieving these properties. In general, the most important and delicate process in the manufacturing process of wool-based textiles, i.e., carpets, is the finishing process, and it is well known that the quality and properties of the resulting carpet are significantly influenced by how well this process is managed. That's right. This finishing process usually consists of various processing steps such as gas firing, boiling carpet, washing carpet, pressing, drying carpet, etc.
The above-mentioned treatment steps are appropriately selected and combined depending on the type of carpet, but the boiling process has the greatest influence. The purpose of the carpet boiling process is to improve the fiber aggregation of the carpet, as well as to relieve stress in various parts of the carpet and improve its texture and dimensional stability. In order to save labor and speed up the work, a continuous carpet boiling machine has been proposed and put into practical use. The present applicant has also been conducting research on such continuous boiling treatment for some time, and has developed methods for improving the conventional batch-type or continuous boiling treatment, for example.
The method is disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 55-42183. This method involves impregnating the carpet with water, applying uniform surface pressure and heat by sandwiching it between the surface of a moving heating element and an elastic sheet, and then impregnating the carpet with water in a substantially unrestrained state at 30°C. The wet carpet is cooled and sufficiently contracted, and then, while maintaining a low tension, it is again sandwiched between the moving heating element surface and the elastic sheet to apply uniform surface pressure and heat. The stress caused by compressive deformation caused by uniform heating in a compressed state and the internal residual stress inherent in the fabric are relaxed, and the fabric is rapidly cooled to below the lowest secondary transition point (30℃) of wool fibers. By repeating the set stabilization operation by repeating the set stabilization operation, and by causing sufficient contraction in an unrestrained state during cooling, the carpet cohesiveness and stress relaxation required for the boiling carpet effect can be promoted in a short time, and the conventional continuous boiling method can be improved. The aim is to secure carpet properties that could not be obtained with carpet processing, and to eliminate unevenness in thickness, area shrinkage and texture, which could not be obtained with conventional batch methods. This continuous simmering method is an extremely effective processing method, and when the present applicant attempted to apply it to the improved sliver-dyed worsted yarn fabric by simmering, surprisingly, the above-mentioned Satin fabrics made of wool fibers that have been subjected to low-temperature bump dyeing using slivers and are made of thin worsted yarns of 60 or higher count have a hue difference between lots of at most 0.5, usually 0.3.
It was found that the rigidity per unit length was also improved. The reason for this result is presumed to be deeply related to the manner of the simmering process, based on the behavior of the carpet during the simmering process; It was found that the important factor was that its UB solubility was higher than that of other conventional textiles. That is, an object of the present invention is to provide dark-colored ready-made clothing materials for formal wear that have little difference in hue even when they are made in different lots, and that enable combinations of formal wear made of mutual fabrics. Another object of the present invention is to provide a series of methods from dyeing to carpet finishing processes that can industrially and efficiently produce the dark-colored ready-made clothing material for formal wear as described above. Thus, the ultimate objective of the present invention is to improve the conventional ready-made formal wear and provide economical and rational ready-made formal wear that is pleasing to consumers. Therefore, the first aspect of the present invention that meets this purpose
The invention of the
A satin fabric woven using thin worsted yarn with a count of at least 60 for the warp and weft, JIS L
UB solubility measured by 1081−1971 is 13
The above material is a material, and the second invention is a series of methods including specific dyeing and carpet finishing processes for producing the material, namely, a wool sliver dyed with chromium dye at a temperature of 90 degrees Celsius or less. to create a thin worsted yarn of 60 count or higher, weave a satin fabric with the worsted yarn, and then impregnate the satin fabric with water,
It is sandwiched between the surface of a moving heating element and an elastic sheet, during which uniform surface pressure and heat are applied, and then it is allowed to absorb moisture in a substantially unrestrained state, and is cooled to below 30°C to sufficiently shrink. Then, while maintaining a low tension, the elastic sheet is again sandwiched between the moving heating element surface and the elastic sheet to apply uniform surface pressure and heat to perform continuous carpeting treatment. This is a method in which the boiling process is repeated one or more times, followed by steaming and finishing using a conventional method. Here, UB solubility (urea, sodium bisulfite solubility) measured according to JIS L 1081-1971 is an index that expresses changes in side chain bonds of wool, and is usually
In the wool dyeing industry, strength and elongation, acid and
It represents an important characteristic along with alkali solubility, and is specifically measured by the following method. UB solubility (urea, sodium bisulfite solubility) Dissolve 50g of urea in boiling distilled water, add 3g of sodium metabisulfite, cool, and then add 2ml of 5N sodium hydroxide solution.
Dilute to 100ml with distilled water (adjust pH to 7.0±0.1). One test sample of about 1 g for bone dry weight measurement and two test samples of about 1 g for UB solubility measurement were collected from different parts of the sample that does not contain oil, fat, vegetable matter, or impurities ( (If the sample is thread or cloth, prepare the test sample by disassembling it into threads of approximately 1 cm length), place one test sample in a flask containing 100 ml of urea and sodium bisulfite solution, and mix 65 ± Shake gently for about 5 seconds every 15 minutes on a hot water bath adjusted to 0.5℃, filter after 60 minutes, and add 10ml of urea solution (25g of urea/
Wash 3 times with 100 ml of water, then 6 times with distilled water. Thereafter, the residue was transferred to a crucible and the dry absolute dry weight was determined at 105±2°C. UB solubility is the weight loss of the test sample as a percentage of the bone dry weight before treatment (%)
It is calculated using the following formula and expressed as the average value of two measurements (to one decimal place). (1) For samples that do not contain acid UB solubility (%) = w ₁ − w ₂ /w ₁ ×100 where w ₁ : Bone dry weight of test sample (g) w ₂ : Bone dry weight of residue (g ) (2) For samples containing acids (PH4.0 or below) UB solubility (%) = (S-s) 100/100-s where S: UB solubility (%) before correction s: sulfuric acid Content (%) Hereinafter, specific embodiments of the present invention will be explained one by one. First, the worsted yarn used in the material of the present invention is a thin worsted yarn with a count of 60 or higher, preferably 70 or higher. Of course, conventional worsted yarns for formal wear also use 60 to 72 count twin yarns, and it goes without saying that anything less than this is practically unsuitable for formal wear materials, but in the case of the present invention, , said worsted yarn is made of darkly dyed wool slivers, especially in the form of sliders. That is, a wool sliver obtained by a conventional process is uniformly filled into a can in the form of a sliver using a continuous over-center coiling motion to create a bump winding. The wool is subjected to high-pressure bump dyeing at a temperature of 0.degree. The specific dyeing conditions in this case are listed as follows.

【表】 そして、上記の如くバンプ巻し、染色が施され
た羊毛スライバーは水洗乾燥後、リコームされ、
紡績工程に付されて梳毛糸として作成されるが、
リコームに先立ち、制電性能を良好ならしめるべ
く、導電性複合繊維を適宜量、好ましくは３重量
％以下ミキシングすることがより効果的である。 導電性複合合成繊維は合成繊維の吸湿性のない
こと、静電気が発生することなどの欠点をカバー
するために開発された繊維であり、基本型は既存
の合繊糸わたの単糸部分に何らかの形状で導電性
炭素微粉粒部分を含ませているもので既にデユポ
ン社を始め国内合繊各社によつて種々の断面形状
をもつものが開発されているが、本出願人におい
ても特開昭54−30919号公報及び特開昭54−30920
号公報などによつて種々の断面形状が提案されて
いる。 従つて、本発明においては、特にかかる本出願
人によつて提示された導電性複合繊維が一般に好
適なものとして使用される。 この導電性複合繊維は、上記公報によつても明
らかであるが代表的には断面形状において円形断
面を２分する如く直径部分に導電成分をもつもの
であり、非電導成分には硫酸相対粘度2.70、
TiO₂含有率2.0％のナイロン６成分が、一方、導
電成分には上記ナイロン成分に導電性カーボンブ
ラツクを20％配合した成分が配されている。 そして、この複合繊維は通常、巻縮が付けら
れ、単糸繊度５デニール、カツト長89mm程度の繊
維として前記羊毛スライバーに混合される。 導電性複合繊維は、その炭素の存在により織物
生地に摩擦などによつて静電気が発生し難く、発
生しても放電（コロナ放電現象）が起り帯電気の
減衰時間が短かい効果を付与すると共に、また静
電気は一般に湿度が低いと発生し易いがこの恐れ
を少なくする面で有効である。しかも少量でこれ
らの効果を奏し得るところから混合は３重量％以
下で十分である。 次に前述のようにして前紡工程−精紡工程を経
て通常の手法によつて作成された梳毛糸を経糸及
び緯糸として公知の織機を利用し、所要の製織工
程に従つて朱子織物を得る。 通常、フオーマルウエア用織物はドスキンで代
表されるように五枚朱子組織を用いた朱子織物で
あり製織時における筬密度、緯密度は適宜、所要
に応じて選定される。しかし勿論、密な織り方が
喜ばれることは云うまでもない。 かくして得た朱子織物は次に以下の順序に従つ
て絨布の仕上処理に付される。 仕上工程は、勿論、前述のようにガス焼、煮
絨、洗絨、蒸絨、プレス、乾絨などの各処理工程
があり、適宜、絨種により選択して実施され、必
らずしも一定するものではないが、ここでは本発
明の目的、効果の面から必要最少限度に要求され
る仕上工程について述べることにする。 従つて、本発明にあつてもここに記載する仕上
工程のみに限定されるものではなく、必要に応じ
他の仕上工程も随時、実施されることは勿論であ
る。 先ず、本発明における仕上工程の特徴はその煮
絨工程である。 煮絨工程はその後における湿潤工程で発生する
歪みを防止することと、絨布に永久性のある艶お
よび、いわゆる腰のある柔軟性による特有の風合
を醸成するためで前述したようにバツチ式煮絨機
による方式、連続煮絨機による方式があるが、本
発明においては、本出願人がさきに提案した特公
昭55−42183号公報に記載した方法によつて通
常、複数回の煮絨処理を行なう。 この方法は、同公報に開示され、前述したよう
に絨布、即ちここにおける朱子織物に含水せし
め、これを移動する加熱体表面と弾性体シートと
の間に挾持して均一な面圧と熱を付与し、次いで
実質的に無拘束状態で含水せしめると共に30℃以
下に冷却して充分に収縮せしめ、後、引続き低張
力を保ちつつ再び移動する加熱体表面を弾性体シ
ートとの間に挾持して均一な面圧と熱を付与する
ことによつて行なわれる。 この場合、被処理織物は先ず第１水槽に導かれ
マングルによつて約70％程度の含水とされる。 そして、湿潤状態の前記織物は次いでピンテン
ターによつて適宜幅出しされながら第１のホツト
ドラムに達し、該ホツトドラムと無端状ゴムシー
トとの間で挾持されて進行しながらホツトドラム
表面からの伝熱によつて熱処理を受ける。この温
度は100％の毛織物の場合、80〜120℃が望ましい
が前記導電性複合繊維混合の場合には稍高くする
こともできる。 なお、処理速度は通常15〜25ｍ／minであり、
浸漬槽は60〜80℃前後に保たれる。 第１ホツトドラムを出た被処理織物は次に第２
水槽中に浸漬されて再び100〜200％程度の含水を
与えられると同時に30℃以下に冷却される。 この目的は前記公報中にも開示してあるが第１
ホツトドラムによる熱処理によつて被処理織物は
乾燥状態にあるが、十分なる煮絨効果を得るには
少くとも60％程度以上の含水が必要なこと、又一
般に羊毛の繊維の形態安定性の向上には単に１回
の加熱−冷却サイクルよりも複数回、繊維の二次
転移点を通過させるサイクルを繰り返すことがよ
り望ましいからである。 次いで処理されるべき朱子織物は第２ホツトド
ラムの作用域に導入され第１ホツトドラムと同様
な熱処理を受ける。 このとき、前述の冷却処理によつて布中に収縮
力が発生するが、この力を出来るだけ利用して梳
毛朱子織物の長さ方向の密度の増加を図るために
第１、第２両ホツトドラム間で布張力が一定値以
上にならないように何れかの回転速度を制御しつ
つ第２ホツトドラムでの熱処理を施す。 かくの如くして、その後、第２ホツトドラムか
ら前記朱子織物が離脱すると、この織物は最後に
水温30％以下の第３水槽に浸漬され更にマングル
で絞られ、次工程の処理に適した含水状態にされ
て一連の煮絨工程が完了する。 上記煮絨工程の実施態様においてホツトドラム
は２個であるがこれを更に多数連設し、複数回の
繰り返し煮絞処理を行えば、その効果が一層向上
することは勿論である。 そして、この場合、当初の煮絨処理を経た織物
を一旦洗絨し、再煮絨処理を行なう。 洗絨は直接的には織物原糸にある紡績油、塵
埃、経糊、機械油また毛焼屑などの汚れを落すも
のであるが、附随的に羊毛特有の弾性を十分に発
揮させ、自然的光沢に富む柔軟豊満な手触りを与
え、色相に冴えを出す。又、織物は収縮して組織
を緻密化しある程度強力を増す。 通常、石けん、アルカリ性薬品、フーラースア
ース、合成洗剤、有機溶剤などの洗剤を単独又は
混合使用し、被処理織物に障害を与えないよう化
学的又は物理的な方法で行なわれ、先ず、前記洗
剤により40℃前後で洗絨し50℃前後で湯洗し冷却
して取り出される。一般に梳毛絨洗絨としては拡
布式洗絨機が使用される。しかし前記煮絨工程に
おける第１ホツトドラムと第２ホツトドラム間に
位置する第２水槽を洗絨工程に使用することも１
つの態様である。 洗絨後の再煮絨は通常、当初の煮絨条件と同様
な条件で行なわれるが、当初の浸漬槽より高くす
ることもある。 かくて、叙上の処理を経た梳毛織物はその後、
蒸絨工程において蒸され、外観上の見映え、風合
を整えられる。 蒸絨には開閉型と密閉型とがあるが高級梳毛絨
布に対しては密閉式蒸絨機、就中、缶蒸しが最も
好適なものとして一般に使用され、略２Kg／cm²程
度の蒸気圧で処理される。 以上のような梳毛糸の形成より蒸絨に至る一連
の工程を経ることによつて製造された本発明梳毛
朱子織物は深みのある黒色朱子織物であり、従来
の黒色朱子織物に対比し染色、紡績から織物を仕
上げるまでの諸工程で受ける羊毛繊維の損傷度が
非常に低く強力、耐摩耗性に優れ、適度の腰感を
有する上に炭素複合繊維の混合により摩擦帯電圧
も低く、しかもLab系による色相差（△Ｅ）が極
めて小さく従つて製造ロツト間の色相変動が殆ど
ないために濃色の既製服素材、特に既製フオーマ
ルウエア素材として極めて有用なものである。 そこで、この特徴を把握すべく、羊毛繊維の損
傷度を示す溶解度を測定し、考察したところ、次
表の如き結果を得た。[Table] The wool slivers that have been bump-wound and dyed as described above are washed and dried, then recombed.
It is created as worsted yarn through a spinning process,
Prior to recombing, it is more effective to mix an appropriate amount of conductive composite fiber, preferably 3% by weight or less, in order to improve the antistatic performance. Conductive composite synthetic fibers are fibers that were developed to overcome the drawbacks of synthetic fibers, such as non-hygroscopicity and generation of static electricity.The basic type is made by adding some shape to the single yarn part of existing synthetic yarn wadding. Dupont and other domestic synthetic fiber companies have already developed products containing conductive carbon fine particles with various cross-sectional shapes; Publication No. 54-30920
Various cross-sectional shapes have been proposed, such as in Japanese publications. Therefore, in the present invention, the electrically conductive composite fibers proposed by the applicant are generally preferred. As is clear from the above-mentioned publication, this conductive composite fiber typically has a conductive component in the diameter portion that bisects a circular cross section, and the non-conductive component contains a sulfuric acid relative viscosity. 2.70,
A nylon 6 component with a TiO ₂ content of 2.0% is used, while the conductive component is a mixture of the above nylon component and 20% conductive carbon black. This composite fiber is usually crimped and mixed with the wool sliver as a fiber having a single yarn fineness of 5 deniers and a cut length of about 89 mm. Due to the presence of carbon in conductive composite fibers, it is difficult for static electricity to be generated in textile fabrics due to friction, etc., and even if static electricity is generated, discharge (corona discharge phenomenon) occurs, giving the effect of shortening the decay time of static electricity. Also, static electricity is generally more likely to occur when the humidity is low, but this is effective in reducing the risk of this. Moreover, since these effects can be achieved with a small amount, it is sufficient to mix 3% by weight or less. Next, a known loom is used as the warp and weft by using the worsted yarn created by the usual method through the pre-spinning process and the spinning process as described above, and a satin fabric is obtained according to the required weaving process. . Normally, formal wear fabrics are satin fabrics using a five-ply satin structure, as typified by Doskin, and the reed density and weft density during weaving are appropriately selected as required. However, of course, it goes without saying that dense weaving is appreciated. The satin fabric thus obtained is then subjected to carpet finishing treatment in the following order. As mentioned above, the finishing process includes, of course, gas firing, boiling carpet, washing carpet, steaming carpet, pressing, drying carpet, and other processing steps, which are selected and carried out as appropriate depending on the type of carpet, and are not necessarily carried out. Although not constant, the finishing steps required to the minimum extent necessary in terms of the purpose and effect of the present invention will be described here. Therefore, it goes without saying that the present invention is not limited to the finishing steps described here, and other finishing steps may be carried out as needed. First, the finishing process of the present invention is characterized by its boiling process. The boiling process is carried out in batches to prevent the distortion that occurs during the subsequent wetting process, and to give the carpet a permanent luster and a unique texture due to its elasticity. There is a method using a carpet machine and a method using a continuous carpet boiling machine, but in the present invention, the method described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 55-42183, which was previously proposed by the present applicant, is usually used to process the carpet multiple times. Do this. This method is disclosed in the same publication, and as mentioned above, a carpet, that is, a satin fabric here, is impregnated with water and is sandwiched between the surface of a moving heating element and an elastic sheet to apply uniform surface pressure and heat. The heating element is applied, and then allowed to absorb water in a substantially unrestrained state and cooled to 30°C or less to sufficiently contract.Then, the surface of the heating element is moved again while maintaining a low tension, and the surface of the heating element is sandwiched between the elastic sheet. This is done by applying uniform surface pressure and heat. In this case, the fabric to be treated is first introduced into a first water tank and made to contain about 70% water by a mangle. Then, the wet fabric is tentered appropriately by a pin tenter and reaches the first hot drum, where it is held between the hot drum and an endless rubber sheet and progresses due to heat transfer from the hot drum surface. Then undergo heat treatment. This temperature is preferably 80 to 120°C in the case of 100% woolen fabric, but can be slightly higher in the case of the conductive conjugate fiber mixture. The processing speed is usually 15 to 25 m/min.
The soaking bath is kept at around 60-80°C. The processed fabric leaving the first hot drum is then transferred to the second hot drum.
It is immersed in a water tank and given a water content of about 100 to 200% again, and at the same time cooled to below 30 degrees Celsius. This purpose is also disclosed in the above publication, but the first
Although the fabric to be treated is in a dry state due to heat treatment in a hot drum, it is necessary to have a moisture content of at least 60% or more in order to obtain a sufficient boiling effect. This is because it is more desirable to repeat the cycle of passing the fiber through the secondary transition point multiple times than simply one heating-cooling cycle. The satin fabric to be treated is then introduced into the working area of the second hot drum and subjected to the same heat treatment as in the first hot drum. At this time, shrinkage force is generated in the fabric due to the cooling process described above, and in order to utilize this force as much as possible to increase the density in the longitudinal direction of the worsted satin fabric, both the first and second hot drums are heated. The heat treatment is performed in the second hot drum while controlling the rotational speed of either of the drums so that the cloth tension does not exceed a certain value in between. In this way, after the satin fabric is separated from the second hot drum, it is finally immersed in a third water tank with a water temperature of 30% or less and further squeezed with a mangle to bring it into a water-containing state suitable for the next process. This completes the series of boiling processes. In the above embodiment of the boiling process, there are two hot drums, but it goes without saying that the effect will be further improved if a larger number of hot drums are installed in series and the boiling process is repeated a plurality of times. In this case, the fabric that has undergone the initial boiling treatment is once washed and then subjected to the re-boiling treatment. Washing wool directly removes stains such as spinning oil, dust, warp glue, machine oil, and wool waste from the yarn, but it also removes stains such as spinning oil, dust, warp glue, machine oil, and wool waste, but it also takes full advantage of wool's unique elasticity and cleans it naturally. Gives a soft and rich texture with a rich luster, and brightens the hue. Also, the fabric shrinks, making its structure denser and increasing its strength to some extent. Usually, detergents such as soap, alkaline chemicals, fuller earth, synthetic detergents, and organic solvents are used alone or in combination, and the process is carried out by chemical or physical methods so as not to damage the textiles to be treated. The carpet is washed at around 40 degrees Celsius, then washed in hot water at around 50 degrees Celsius, cooled, and then taken out. Generally, a spreading type carpet washing machine is used for washing worsted carpet. However, the second water tank located between the first hot drum and the second hot drum in the carpet boiling process may also be used in the carpet washing process.
There are two aspects. The re-boiling of the carpet after washing is usually carried out under the same conditions as the original boiling conditions, but the soaking conditions may be higher than the original soaking tank. In this way, the worsted fabric that has undergone the above treatment is then
It is steamed in the steaming process to improve its appearance and texture. There are two types of steamed carpet: open and closed type and closed type, but for high-quality worsted carpets, closed type steamer machines, especially can steaming, are generally used as the most suitable method, with a steam pressure of approximately 2 kg/cm ² Processed in The worsted satin fabric of the present invention, which is manufactured through a series of processes from the formation of worsted yarn to vaporization as described above, is a deep black satin fabric, and in contrast to the conventional black satin fabric, dyeing, The degree of damage to the wool fibers during the various processes from spinning to finishing the fabric is very low, it is strong, has excellent abrasion resistance, has a moderate stiffness, and has a low frictional charging voltage due to the mixture of carbon composite fibers. Since the hue difference (ΔE) depending on the system is extremely small and there is almost no hue variation between production lots, it is extremely useful as a material for dark-colored ready-made clothing, especially ready-made formal wear. Therefore, in order to understand this characteristic, the solubility, which indicates the degree of damage to wool fibers, was measured and discussed, and the results shown in the following table were obtained.

【表】 上記表より明らかなように酸、アルカリ溶解度
については各ロツト共、大した差は認められない
が、UB溶解度に関しては顕著にその差が表わ
れ、本発明における梳毛朱子織物の特性を明確に
知悉し得ることが判明した。 そして、本発明者らは前述の如く、特にUB溶
解度が13以上において意図する前記既製フオーマ
ルウエア素材として好適な結果を得ることを見出
したのである。 従つて、本発明における濃色既製服素材はUB
溶解度が13以上であることが必須とされる。 以下、更に本発明の具体的な効果を明らかにす
るため実施例を掲げる。 実施例 羊毛スライバーを連続オーバーセンターコイリ
ングモーシヨンにより均一にケースに充填して
0.3〜0.4ｇ／cm³のバンプ巻きを作成し、次の条件
によりイン−アウト染色を行なつた。 染 浴 クロム染料（クロム・ブラツク PLW、Ｃ、Ｉ、16500） ７％owf 酢 酸 ３％owf りん酸 0.4％owf ポリオキシエチレン型非イオン活性剤 （HLB13、E0平均付加モル数９） １％owf 浴 比 １：５ 温 度 40℃でスタート、30分で85℃まで昇温、
85℃で30分染色 後処理（染料固着、発色） 重クロム酸ソーダ ２％owf 酢 酸 １％owf からなる処理液で98℃、30分処理 以上により得られた染色スライバーを、水洗
後、乾燥し、横断面形状が導電成分により中央で
２分され、非導電成分に酢酸相対粘度2.70、
TiO₂含有率2.0％のナイロン６を配し、導電成分
に上記ナイロン６に導電性カーボンブラツクを20
％配合した成分を配した単糸繊度５デニール、カ
ツト長89mmの巻縮した導電性複合繊維を１％混入
した後、通常の前紡工程−精紡工程を通して72番
手双糸（２／72′S）の梳毛糸を作成した。 この梳毛糸の強力は205ｇ、伸度は17.8％であ
つた。 次に、かかる梳毛糸を経糸及び緯糸として用
い、ズルツアー（Sulzer）織機により筬密度20.5
羽×6.5本、緯密度88本／吋で５枚朱子織物を製
織した。 製織に際し前記梳毛糸の強力、伸度より何らト
ラブルはなく朱子織物が得られ、且つ織疵も見ら
れなかつた。 このようにして得た５枚朱子織物に、次いで、
以下の順序で各処理を施した。 (1) 煮絨処理 前記特公昭55−42183号公報記載による。但
し、処理速度20ｍ／min、浸漬槽温度70℃、シ
リンダー温度120℃、 (2) 洗絨処理 通常の合成洗剤を使用し、40℃で行ない、50
℃で湯洗後、冷却して取り出した。 (3) 再煮絨処理 前記(1)の処理と同条件で処理し、冷却後、取
り出した。 (4) 蒸絨処理 缶蒸しを利用し、２Kg／cm²の蒸気圧で処理し
た。かくして上記各処理を経て、経密度146
本／吋、緯密度90本／吋、目付290ｇ／m²の深
みのある黒色５枚朱子織物を得た。 この朱子織物は以下の特性を有していた。[Table] As is clear from the above table, there is no significant difference in acid and alkali solubility among the lots, but there is a noticeable difference in UB solubility, which indicates the characteristics of the worsted satin fabric in the present invention. It turned out that it was clearly possible to know. As mentioned above, the present inventors have found that particularly when the UB solubility is 13 or more, suitable results can be obtained as the intended material for ready-made formal wear. Therefore, the dark-colored ready-made clothing material in the present invention is UB
It is essential that the solubility is 13 or higher. Examples are given below to further clarify the specific effects of the present invention. Example: Wool slivers were uniformly filled into a case using a continuous over-center coiling motion.
A bump roll of 0.3 to 0.4 g/cm ³ was prepared and in-out dyeing was performed under the following conditions. Dyeing bath Chrome dye (Chrome Black PLW, C, I, 16500) 7% owf Acetic acid 3% owf Phosphoric acid 0.4% owf Polyoxyethylene type nonionic activator (HLB13, average number of added moles of E0 9) 1% owf Bath ratio 1:5 Temperature Start at 40℃, raise the temperature to 85℃ in 30 minutes,
Post-dyeing treatment at 85℃ for 30 minutes (dye fixation, color development) Treatment at 98℃ for 30 minutes with a treatment solution consisting of sodium dichromate 2% OWF and acetic acid 1% OWF The dyed sliver obtained above was washed with water and dried. The cross-sectional shape is divided into two at the center by the conductive component, and the non-conductive component contains acetic acid with a relative viscosity of 2.70,
Nylon 6 with a TiO ₂ content of 2.0% is arranged, and conductive carbon black is added to the nylon 6 as the conductive component.
After mixing 1% of crimped conductive composite fiber with a single yarn fineness of 5 denier and a cut length of 89 mm, it is passed through the normal pre-spinning process and spinning process to become a 72nd twin yarn (2/72' A worsted yarn of S) was made. The strength of this worsted yarn was 205 g and the elongation was 17.8%. Next, using such worsted yarns as warp and weft yarns, a Sulzer loom is used to create a reed with a reed density of 20.5.
Five sheets of satin fabric were woven with 6.5 feathers and a weft density of 88 feathers/inch. During weaving, satin fabric was obtained without any trouble due to the strength and elongation of the worsted yarn, and no weaving defects were observed. Next, to the five-ply satin fabric obtained in this way,
Each treatment was performed in the following order. (1) Boiled carpet treatment As described in the above-mentioned Japanese Patent Publication No. 55-42183. However, the processing speed is 20 m/min, the immersion tank temperature is 70°C, the cylinder temperature is 120°C, (2) Washing process is carried out at 40°C using a regular synthetic detergent.
After washing with hot water at ℃, it was cooled and taken out. (3) Re-boiled fiber treatment It was treated under the same conditions as the treatment in (1) above, and after cooling, it was taken out. (4) Steaming treatment The treatment was carried out using can steaming at a steam pressure of 2 kg/cm ² . Thus, after each of the above treatments, the density is 146
A deep black 5-ply satin fabric with a thread/inch, a weft density of 90 threads/inch, and a basis weight of 290 g/m ² was obtained. This satin fabric had the following characteristics.

【表】 ここで、上記色相差（△Ｅ）はJISZ8730−
1970色差表示方法の「6.3Lab系による色差」に
もとづいて計算した。 以上の諸特性から判るように上記方法により得
られた朱子織物は織物に仕上がるまでの各工程で
受ける羊毛繊維の損傷度が低いことから強力、耐
摩耗性に優れ、適度の腰感がある上に摩擦帯電圧
も低く、その上、色相差（△Ｅ）が極めて小さく
濃色の既製フオーマルウエア素材として極めて好
適かつ有用なものであつた。 比較例 １ 実施例と同様にして羊毛スライバーをケンスに
充填してバンプ巻きを作成し、次の条件で染色し
た。 染 浴 クロム染料（クロム・ブラツク PLW、Ｃ、Ｉ、16500） ７％owf 酢 酸 3.5％owf りん酸 0.8％owf 浴 比 １：５ 温 度 40℃でスタート、30分で98℃まで昇温98
℃で30分染色 後処理 実施例に同じ 得られた染色スライバーを用い実施例と同様に
して紡績し、導電糸１％を含む梳毛糸（２／
72′S）を得た。この梳毛糸（２／72′S）は強力が
173ｇ、伸度12.6％であつた。 以下、実施例と同様にして５枚朱子織物を織成
後、同様の処理を施し、経密度146本／吋、緯密
度90本／吋、目付286ｇ／m²の黒色５枚朱子織物
を得た。 この朱子織物の諸特性を以下に示す。[Table] Here, the above hue difference (△E) is JISZ8730-
Calculations were made based on the 1970 Color Difference Display Method "6.3 Color Difference Based on the Lab System". As can be seen from the above characteristics, the satin fabric obtained by the above method has low damage to the wool fibers during each process until it is finished, so it is strong, has excellent abrasion resistance, and has a moderate stiffness. Furthermore, the frictional charging voltage was low, and the hue difference (ΔE) was extremely small, making it extremely suitable and useful as a dark-colored ready-made formal wear material. Comparative Example 1 A can was filled with wool sliver to create a bump roll in the same manner as in the example, and dyed under the following conditions. Dyeing bath Chrome dye (Chrome Black PLW, C, I, 16500) 7% owf Acetic acid 3.5% owf Phosphoric acid 0.8% owf Bath ratio 1:5 Temperature Start at 40°C, raise temperature to 98°C in 30 minutes98
Post-dyeing treatment at °C for 30 minutes Same as in Example The obtained dyed sliver was spun in the same manner as in Example, and worsted yarn (2/2) containing 1% conductive yarn was spun.
72′S) was obtained. This worsted yarn (2/72′S) is strong.
It had a weight of 173g and an elongation of 12.6%. Hereinafter, a 5-ply satin fabric was woven in the same manner as in the example, and then subjected to the same treatment to obtain a black 5-ply satin fabric with a warp density of 146 threads/inch, a weft density of 90 threads/inch, and a basis weight of 286 g/ ^m2. Ta. The characteristics of this satin fabric are shown below.

【表】 以上のように、高温で染色したものは、色相差
（△Ｅ）は、適度の範囲内に抑えられるが、羊毛
繊維の損傷が大きく、強力、耐摩耗性に劣るため
に製織時の事故（織疵）が多く、更に着用時の損
傷も受け易く製品にも織疵が多発し、高級な既製
服素材としては不適なものであつた。 比較例 ２ 実施例と同様の羊毛スライバーと導電糸（１
％）とを同様にミキシングし、前紡−精紡工程を
通して２／72′Sの梳毛糸を作成した。 そして、かかる梳毛糸を用い、前記実施例と同
様の５枚朱子織物を織成後、次の条件で染色し
た。 染浴、浴比 比較例に同じ 温 度 40℃でスタート、60分で98℃まで昇温98
℃で30分染色 後処理 比較例１に同じ 続いて染色した朱子織物に実施例と同様の処理
を施し、経密度148本／吋、緯密度100本／吋、目
付322ｇ／m²の黒色５枚朱子織物を得た。 かかる朱子織物の諸特性を以下に示す。 なお、ここで、本比較例は反染の例であるた
め、用いた梳毛糸は朱染色であり、前掲の２例と
は比較にならないが、参考までに強伸度値を挙げ
ると強力は225ｇ、伸度は22.0％であつた。勿論
朱染色糸であるので受けたダメージは最も少な
く、強伸度は最も高い値を示している。[Table] As shown above, the hue difference (△E) of wool dyed at high temperatures can be suppressed within a reasonable range, but the wool fibers are severely damaged and are less strong and abrasion resistant during weaving. There were many accidents (weave flaws), and it was also easily damaged during wear, resulting in frequent weave flaws, making it unsuitable as a material for high-grade ready-made clothing. Comparative Example 2 Wool sliver and conductive thread (1
%) were mixed in the same manner and subjected to a pre-spinning and spinning process to produce a worsted yarn of 2/72'S. Using this worsted yarn, a five-ply satin fabric similar to that of the above example was woven and then dyed under the following conditions. Dyeing bath, bath ratio Same temperature as comparative example Start at 40℃, increase temperature to 98℃ in 60 minutes98
Post-dyeing treatment at ℃ for 30 minutes Same as Comparative Example 1 Subsequently, the dyed satin fabric was subjected to the same treatment as in Example to obtain black 5 with a warp density of 148 threads/inch, a weft density of 100 threads/inch, and a basis weight of 322 g/ ^m2 . A sheet satin fabric was obtained. The characteristics of such satin fabric are shown below. In addition, since this comparative example is an example of anti-dying, the worsted yarn used was vermilion dyed, and it cannot be compared with the two examples above, but for reference, the strength and elongation values are listed. The weight was 225g and the elongation was 22.0%. Of course, since it is a vermilion dyed yarn, it suffers the least amount of damage and has the highest strength and elongation.

【表】【table】

【表】 以上のような反染品は、目付が大きくなるた
め、強度や耐摩耗性では前記実施例品や比較例１
品と一概に比較はできないが、羊毛繊維の損傷度
が極めて大きく、色相差（△Ｅ）に見られるよう
に製造ロツト間の色相変動非常に大きく、従つて
既製服、特に色相の均一性を必要とするフオーマ
ルウエア素材としては全く不向きなものであつ
た。[Table] The anti-dyed products described above have a large basis weight, so they are inferior to the Example products and Comparative Example 1 in terms of strength and abrasion resistance.
Although it is not possible to make a general comparison with wool fibers, the degree of damage to wool fibers is extremely large, and as seen in the hue difference (△E), the hue variation between manufacturing lots is very large. It was completely unsuitable for the required formal wear material.

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】 １ クロム染料により濃色に染色された、少くと
も60番手以上の細い梳毛糸を経糸及び緯糸に用い
て製織してなる朱子織物であり、かつ該織物は少
くともJIS Ｌ 1081−1971によつて測定される
UB溶解度が13以上であることを特徴とする濃色
既製服素材。 ２ 前記梳毛糸が３重量％以上の有機導電性繊維
を含んでいる特許請求の範囲第１項記載の濃色既
製服素材。 ３ 前記既製服素材織物の曲げ剛性が単位長さ当
り0225ｇ・cm²／cm以上である特許請求の範囲第１
項又は第２項記載の濃色既製服素材。 ４ クロム染料により90℃以下の温度で染色した
羊毛スライバーを用いて60番手以上の細い梳毛糸
を作成し、該梳毛糸により朱子織物を製織した
後、該朱子織物に含水せしめ、移動する加熱体表
面と弾性シートの間に挾持してその間、均一な面
圧と熱を付与し、次いで実質的に無拘束状態で含
水せしめると共に30℃以下に冷却して充分に収縮
せしめ、その後、更に低張力を保ちつつ再び移動
する加熱体表面と弾性体シートとの間に挾持して
均一な面圧と熱を付与して連続煮絨処理を施し、
爾後、洗絨と、前記同様の煮絨処理を１回又は複
数回繰り返した後、常法により蒸絨し仕上げ処理
することを特徴とする濃色既製服素材の製造方
法。[Scope of Claims] 1. A satin fabric woven using thin worsted yarn of at least a count of 60 or more for the warp and weft, which is dyed in a deep color with chromium dye, and the fabric is at least JIS L. Measured by 1081−1971
A dark-colored ready-made clothing material characterized by a UB solubility of 13 or higher. 2. The dark-colored ready-made clothing material according to claim 1, wherein the worsted yarn contains 3% by weight or more of organic conductive fibers. 3. Claim 1, wherein the bending rigidity of the ready-made clothing material fabric is 0225 g·cm ² /cm or more per unit length.
The dark-colored ready-made clothing material described in item 1 or 2. 4. A fine worsted yarn of 60 or higher count is created using a wool sliver dyed with chromium dye at a temperature of 90°C or less, and after weaving a satin fabric using the worsted yarn, the satin fabric is impregnated with water and a moving heating element is used. It is sandwiched between the surface and an elastic sheet, during which uniform surface pressure and heat are applied, and then it is allowed to absorb water in a substantially unrestrained state and cooled to below 30°C to sufficiently shrink, and then further lowered tension is applied. While maintaining the temperature, the heating element is sandwiched between the moving heating element surface and the elastic sheet, applying uniform surface pressure and heat, and performing continuous boiling treatment.
A method for producing a dark-colored ready-made clothing material, characterized in that after that, washing the cloth and the same boiling treatment as described above are repeated one or more times, and then steaming and finishing the cloth by a conventional method.