JPS607732B2 - Manufacturing method of differential shrinkage blend yarn - Google Patents

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】 本発明は異収縮混織糸の製造方法に関するものであり、
さらに詳しくは収縮率の大きい糸条の収縮率のバラッキ
を小さくし、収縮率差の均一な異収縮混縦糸を製造する
方法に関するものである。DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for producing a differentially shrinkable blended yarn,
More specifically, the present invention relates to a method of reducing the variation in the shrinkage percentage of yarns having a large shrinkage percentage, and producing warp yarns with different shrinkage ratios having uniform shrinkage percentage differences.

近年、衣料の分野に用いられている繊維素材は多岐にわ
たっており、色彩はもとより風合においても様々なもの
が要望され、加工工程での工夫のみならず、原糸素材に
ついても種々の工夫がなされている。これらの中にあっ
て、熱収縮率に差のある糸条を混線した異収縮漁繊糸は
絹様の風合を発現することから特に価値が大きいもので
ある。In recent years, there has been a wide variety of textile materials used in the clothing field, and there is a demand for a wide variety of textures as well as colors, and various innovations have been made not only in the processing process but also in the yarn materials. ing. Among these, differentially shrinkable fishing yarn, which is a mixture of yarns with different heat shrinkage rates, is particularly valuable because it exhibits a silk-like texture.

異収縮混織糸の製造方法については各種の方法が提案さ
れているが、熱固定処理の程度を異ならせて収縮率を変
化させた糸条を混織する方法、すなわち、特公昭３９−
２４３１７号に示されているように、温度の異なる熱処
理城を通す方法が一般的に知られている。Various methods have been proposed for manufacturing different shrinkage blended yarns, but a method of blending yarns with different shrinkage rates by varying the degree of heat setting treatment, that is, the
As shown in Japanese Patent Application No. 24317, a method of passing through heat treatment chambers having different temperatures is generally known.

このような異収縮混繊糸の製造方法において、異なる収
縮率の糸条を得るために、所定の熱処理装置を並列に設
けて熱固定を行なう場合、またはすでに所定の熱固定処
理を施した糸条同士を用いる場合にはそれぞれの糸条の
収縮率のバラツキは比較的小さく、従って混織糸の収縮
率差も安定して保つことができる。In such a method for producing mixed fiber yarns with different shrinkage rates, heat setting is performed by installing predetermined heat treatment devices in parallel in order to obtain yarns with different shrinkage rates, or yarns that have already been subjected to a predetermined heat setting treatment are used. When yarns are used, the variation in shrinkage rate of each yarn is relatively small, and therefore the difference in shrinkage rate of the mixed yarn can be kept stable.

一方、上記の場合には混織する糸条の本数に対応して異
なった温度の熱処理域を設けるか、または予め糸条に所
定の異なった熱処理を施す工程が必要となるため、装置
が複雑、高価なものとなり、糸掛け作業も繁雑になるこ
と、または新しい工程が必要になることなどから、収縮
率の大きい糸条として、延伸した後、積極的に熱固定処
理を施さない糸条を用いる方法もある。On the other hand, in the above case, it is necessary to provide heat treatment areas with different temperatures depending on the number of yarns to be mixed, or to perform a predetermined different heat treatment process on the yarns in advance, making the equipment complicated. However, it is expensive, the threading work is complicated, and a new process is required, so it is recommended to use yarn that has a high shrinkage rate and is not actively heat-set after being drawn. There is also a method that can be used.

この場合にはたとえば２本の糸条を同時に延伸し、収縮
率の小さい糸条は従来の熱処理城を通過させ、高収縮糸
は熱処理域から離して、実質的に熱処理を施さないで通
過させた後、合糸混織することにより、従来から使用さ
れている延撚機を用いてきわめて容易に製造することが
できる利点がある。In this case, for example, two yarns are drawn at the same time, and the yarn with a low shrinkage rate is passed through a conventional heat treatment zone, and the yarn with a high shrinkage rate is separated from the heat treatment area and passed through without being subjected to any heat treatment. After that, by doubling and blending, there is an advantage that it can be manufactured very easily using a conventionally used drawing and twisting machine.

しかしながら、延伸した後、熱固定処理を施す場合には
繊維の内部線造が安定になり、なんら問題はないが、積
極的に熱固定処理を施さない場合には糸条の延伸で発現
した歪が解消されずに残留するため、加熱に対してきわ
めて不安定な挙動を起しやすく、熱収縮率にも著しい差
異が発生し、高収縮糸の収縮率のバラッキをきわめて大
きいものにすることになる。However, if heat-setting treatment is applied after drawing, the internal filament structure of the fiber becomes stable and there is no problem, but if heat-setting treatment is not actively applied, the strain that occurs when the yarn is drawn is remains unresolved, which tends to cause extremely unstable behavior when heated, resulting in significant differences in thermal shrinkage rates, resulting in extremely large variations in shrinkage rates for high-shrinkage yarns. Become.

そして熱収縮率は繊維の分子構造を反映したものである
から、当然、染料の吸着性能にも影響し、収縮率のバラ
ッキに相応した色相のバラッキを発現させる。このよう
な熱収縮率にバラッキのある糸条は異収縮渡級糸として
用いた場合にも染色、風合、嵩高性などの性能を変動さ
せることになり、このため編物、織物などの製品に対し
て致命的な欠点となる場合が多く、高品質、高付加価値
の製品を製造する際には大きな問題となっていた。本発
明者らはかかる問題点を解消し、熱固定処理が施された
糸条と施されていない糸条とを引き揃えて異収縮泥織糸
を製造するに際して、収縮率および収縮率差のバラッキ
のづ・ごい安定した混織糸を容易に製造することができ
る方法について鋭意検討した結果、低収縮糸と高収縮糸
を引き揃えた後、高収縮糸のみを一部分熱固定する条件
で熱処理することにより、高収縮糸の収縮率のバラッキ
がきわめて小さく、収縮率差の均一な糸条を工業的規模
で容易に製造できることを見し、出した。Since the thermal shrinkage rate reflects the molecular structure of the fiber, it naturally affects the dye adsorption performance, causing variations in hue corresponding to variations in the shrinkage rate. Even when such yarns with variable heat shrinkage rates are used as different shrinkage grade yarns, the properties such as dyeing, texture, and bulkiness will vary. However, it often becomes a fatal flaw, and has become a major problem when manufacturing high-quality, high-value-added products. The present inventors have solved this problem, and when manufacturing a differentially shrinkable mud woven yarn by aligning yarns that have been subjected to heat-setting treatment and yarns that have not been heat-set, the shrinkage rate and the difference in shrinkage rate can be reduced. As a result of intensive research into a method that could easily produce a highly stable blended yarn, we developed a method that allows low-shrinkage yarns and high-shrinkage yarns to be aligned, and then heat-treats the high-shrinkage yarns under conditions that partially heat-set only the high-shrinkage yarns. They found that by doing this, it is possible to easily produce yarns with uniform shrinkage rate differences on an industrial scale, with very little variation in the shrinkage rate of high-shrinkage yarns.

すなわち、本発明はポリエステル繊維からなり１２０〜
２２０００の範囲の温度日，の熱固定処理が施された糸
条と積極的な熱固定処理を施されていない糸条を引き揃
えた後、実質的に糸条を収縮させることなく６０００〜
（日，一５０）℃の範囲の温度日２で熱処理を施すこと
を特徴とする異収縮濠織糸の製造法である。本発明にお
いて、ポリエステル繊維とは溶融紡糸して糸条を形成す
ることができるポリエステルからなる繊維であって、熱
固定処理により熱収縮率を低下させることができるもの
であれば任意に使用することができるが、異収縮漉織糸
に要求される絹様風合、腰などの特性を発揮させる点か
らは特にポリエチレンテレフタレートまたはポリエチレ
ンテレフタレートを主成分とする共重合ポリエステルか
らなる繊維であることが好ましい。That is, the present invention is made of polyester fibers with 120~
After aligning yarns that have been heat-set and yarns that have not been actively heat-set at temperatures in the range of 22,000 to 6,000 degrees Celsius without substantially shrinking the yarns.
This is a method for producing differentially shrinkable moat woven yarn characterized by heat treatment at a temperature in the range of (days, -50)°C. In the present invention, the polyester fiber is a fiber made of polyester that can be melt-spun to form a yarn, and any fiber can be used as long as it can reduce the heat shrinkage rate by heat-setting treatment. However, fibers made of polyethylene terephthalate or copolyester containing polyethylene terephthalate as the main component are particularly preferred from the viewpoint of exhibiting the silk-like texture, stiffness, and other properties required for differentially shrinkable woven yarns. .

低収縮糸を熱処理する温度日，（℃）は繊維素材および
要求される収縮率の水準によって異なるが、１２０ｑｏ
未満では高収縮糸との収縮率の差が不充分であって異収
縮漁繊糸としての特徴が小さく、２２０ｑｏを超えると
糸条の融着、延伸斑など好ましくない現象が現われるた
め１２０〜２２０ｑＣの範囲で選定するのがよい。低収
縮糸と高収縮糸を引き揃えた後、熱処理する温度日２（
００）も繊維素材、要求される収縮率の水準によって異
なるが、６０００未満の温度ではほとんど延伸での歪を
解消する効果はみられず、（日，一５０）℃よりも高く
なると延伸時にローフーへの捲糸が多くなるとともに高
収縮糸の熱固定が進みすぎて収縮率が低下し、低収縮糸
の収縮率との差が小さくなり「異収縮混級糸の特徴であ
る嵩高、風合の改良効果が消滅するため、熱処理温度弦
を６０００〜（日，一５０）℃の範囲内にする必要があ
り、さらに好ましくは８０ｑｏ〜（日，一７０）℃の範
囲である。The temperature (℃) for heat treating low shrinkage yarn varies depending on the fiber material and the required shrinkage level, but it is 120qo
If it is less than 220 qC, the difference in shrinkage rate from the high shrinkage yarn is insufficient and the characteristics as a differently shrinkable fishing yarn are small. It is best to select within the range of . After aligning the low shrinkage yarn and high shrinkage yarn, heat treatment is performed on temperature day 2 (
00) also differs depending on the fiber material and the level of shrinkage required, but temperatures below 6000°C have little effect on eliminating distortion during stretching, and temperatures above (150°C) cause low-fouling during stretching. As the number of windings increases, the heat setting of the high shrinkage yarn progresses too much and the shrinkage rate decreases, and the difference between the shrinkage rate of the low shrinkage yarn and the shrinkage rate of the yarn becomes smaller. Since the improvement effect disappears, the heat treatment temperature range needs to be within the range of 6000 to 150°C, more preferably 80qo to 70°C.

また、熱処理に際しては実質的に収縮させない条件下で
熱処理を施すことが必要であり、収縮させると低収縮糸
が収縮せずにループ状になるため捲取りや縞、織成の工
程で、しごきによるネップの発生、毛羽、切断の発生な
どで好ましくない現象が起るとともに、製品にした後嵩
高処理をする際に異収縮効果が小さくなる。In addition, heat treatment must be performed under conditions that do not cause substantial shrinkage, and when shrinkage occurs, the low-shrinkage yarn does not shrink and becomes a loop, so it is necessary to iron it during the winding, striping, and weaving processes. This causes undesirable phenomena such as the generation of neps, fuzz, and cutting, and also reduces the differential shrinkage effect when bulking treatment is performed after making into a product.

なお、本発明において延伸工程で一方の糸条には日，（
００）の熱固定処理を施し、他の糸条には積極的に熱固
定処理を施さないで、引き揃えて異収縮混織糸となすに
際し、それぞれの糸条を別々に延伸しても、あるいは同
時に延伸するようにしてもよい。In addition, in the present invention, in the drawing process, one yarn is coated with
00), and the other yarns are not actively heat-set, and when they are drawn together to form a differentially shrinkable blended yarn, even if each yarn is stretched separately, Alternatively, they may be stretched at the same time.

また、熱固定処理が施された糸条と施されていない糸条
とを引き揃えた後、温度広で熱処理するに際し、糸条を
引き揃える引き揃えローフー、たとえば引き取りｏ−ラ
ーを加熱ローラーとなすか、あるいは糸条を引き揃えた
後捲き取りもこ至るまでの任意の位置に補助加熱装置を
設け、日２（００）の温度で熱固定処理するようにする
と、非常に能率よく、収縮率のバラッキが小さく、収縮
率差の安定な異収縞混織糸を製造することができる。In addition, when heat-treating yarns at a wide temperature after aligning yarns that have been heat-set and yarns that have not been heat-set, it is possible to use a heating roller to align the yarns, such as a take-off o-ler. If an auxiliary heating device is installed at any position after the yarn has been drawn or wound up, and the heat-setting treatment is performed at a temperature of 2 (00) days, the shrinkage rate can be reduced very efficiently. It is possible to produce a heterotropic striped blended yarn with small variation in shrinkage rate and stable difference in shrinkage rate.

また補助加熱装置により、日２（℃）の温度で熱処理す
ることにより高収縮糸の収縮率も低下するが（後述する
実施例−１および第３図参照）、その低下の度合は一般
に補助加熱装置で加熱される以前の糸条の収縮率が高い
ほど大きい。In addition, the shrinkage rate of high-shrinkage yarns is also reduced by heat treatment at a temperature of 2 degrees Celsius using an auxiliary heating device (see Example 1 and Figure 3 below), but the degree of reduction is generally The higher the shrinkage rate of the yarn before being heated by the device, the greater the shrinkage.

このことは、高収縮糸の収縮率が３０％以上といった極
めて大きい場合に補助加熱装置で加熱することによりそ
の収縮率を低減せしめ、後加工時におけるヒケ等の発生
を抑制するといった付加的な効果をもっているのである
。以下本発明を図面に従って説明する。This has the additional effect of reducing the shrinkage rate of high-shrinkage yarn by heating it with an auxiliary heating device when the shrinkage rate is extremely large, such as 30% or more, and suppressing the occurrence of sink marks during post-processing. It has. The present invention will be explained below with reference to the drawings.

第１図は本発明を実施するに使用する延伸装置の一例を
示した概略図であり、引き取りローフー７を加熱ローラ
ーとなしたものである。FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a stretching device used to carry out the present invention, in which a take-off loaf 7 is used as a heating roller.

未延伸糸ボビン１，１′から引き出された未延伸糸２，
２′は張力調整装置３，３′を経て、供給ローフー４と
分離ローラー４′との間で数回捲回され、一方の糸条は
温度日，（００）の熱処理装置５に接触させ、他の糸条
は熱処理装置５に接触させずに通糸した後、引き取りロ
ーラー７で合糸される。引き取りローラー７と供給ロー
ラー４の周速度の差によって糸条は延伸される。必要に
応じて供給ローラー４を加熱ローラーとなし、または供
給ローラー４に続いて延伸ピンを設けて延伸を行なうこ
とも可能である。引き取りローラー７は日２（０○）に
加熱されており、合糸された糸条８は引き取りローラー
７と分離ローラ−７′の間で数回捲回されて熱処理され
た後、ラベットガイド９、リングレール１０‘こ設けら
れたトラベラーを通して延伸糸ボビン１１として捲き取
られる。第２図は補助加熱装置の一例を示した斜視図で
あり、ガイド６で引き揃えられた糸条８は引き取りロー
ラー７と分離ローラー７′との間で捲回される間に、こ
こに設置された温度比（℃）の補助加熱装置１２により
、熱処理される。Undrawn yarn 2, pulled out from undrawn yarn bobbins 1, 1'
2' passes through tension adjustment devices 3, 3' and is wound several times between the supply loft 4 and the separation roller 4', and one yarn is brought into contact with the heat treatment device 5 at temperature (00). The other yarns are threaded without contacting the heat treatment device 5, and then are combined by a take-up roller 7. The yarn is drawn due to the difference in circumferential speed between the take-up roller 7 and the supply roller 4. If necessary, it is also possible to use the supply roller 4 as a heating roller or to provide a stretching pin following the supply roller 4 for stretching. The take-up roller 7 is heated on day 2 (0○), and the doubled yarn 8 is wound several times between the take-up roller 7 and the separation roller 7' and heat-treated, and then passed through the rabbet guide 9. The drawn yarn is wound up as a drawn yarn bobbin 11 through a traveler provided on the ring rail 10'. FIG. 2 is a perspective view showing an example of an auxiliary heating device, in which the thread 8 aligned by the guide 6 is installed here while being wound between the take-up roller 7 and the separation roller 7'. The heat treatment is performed by the auxiliary heating device 12 at the temperature ratio (° C.).

補助加熱装置は糸条が引き揃えられた後、ラベットガィ
ド９に至るまでの間の任意の位置に設置しても同機な効
果を得ることができる。このように本発明を延伸工程と
連結し、異収縮混織糸を製造する場合には主加熱装置に
続いて、主加熱装置の温度よりもはるかに低い温度の補
助加熱装置を設けるものであり、従来の延伸方法、延伸
混織方法とは格別に異なった方法となる。The same effect can be obtained even if the auxiliary heating device is installed at any position after the yarns are aligned and up to the rabbet guide 9. In this way, when the present invention is connected to the drawing process to produce a differentially shrinkable blended yarn, an auxiliary heating device whose temperature is much lower than that of the main heating device is provided following the main heating device. This method is extremely different from conventional stretching methods and stretching and blending methods.

また、本発明の効果は下記の実施例により明瞭であるが
、きわめて容易に収縮率および収縮率差の安定した異収
縮混織糸を得ることができ、製品品位を向上させること
ができることである。実施例 １ 第１図に示した延伸装置の供給ローラー４の直後に６側
？のセラミック製延伸ピンを設けた装置を用い、７３ｅ
ｎ／１８ｉ１のポリエチレンテレフタレート禾延伸糸２
本を同時に供給して、引き取りロ−ラー７の温度日２を
種々変更し、その他は下記の条件で延伸し、引き取りロ
ーラー７で合糸して５Ｗｅｎ／３６ｆｉｌの異収縮混織
糸を作成した。Further, the effects of the present invention are clearly demonstrated by the following examples, and it is possible to very easily obtain a mixed shrinkage yarn with a stable shrinkage rate and shrinkage rate difference, and improve product quality. . Example 1 6 side immediately after the supply roller 4 of the stretching device shown in FIG. 73e using a device equipped with ceramic stretching pins.
n/18i1 polyethylene terephthalate drawn yarn 2
The books were fed at the same time, the temperature day 2 of the take-up roller 7 was changed variously, and the other conditions were as follows: the yarns were doubled together on the take-up roller 7 to create a 5Wen/36fil different shrinkage blended yarn. .

供給ローラー４の温度 ８０００熱処理
装置５の温度日， １８０００延伸倍率
３．０各１０雌塵で採取し
た異収縮混織糸を低収縮糸と高収縮糸に分割し、それぞ
れの糸条の熱水収縮率をＪＩＳ法（Ｌ−１０７３）に準
じて測定した。この結果、第３図に示したように引き取
りローラー７を加熱しない従来の方法に比較して、本発
明の方法は高収縮糸の熱水収縮率のバラッキを顕著に減
少させることができ、延伸断糸率も良好であった。実施
例 ２ 実施例１と同一の未延伸糸を用いて、第１図の延伸装置
の引き取りローラー７は非加熱とし、第２図に示すよう
に引き取りローラー７と分離ローラー７ｒとの間に補助
加熱装置１２を設け、下記の条件にて延伸合糸して５Ｍ
ｅｎ／３８ｉｌの異収縮混織糸を得た。Temperature of supply roller 4: 8000 Temperature of heat treatment device 5: 18000 Stretching ratio
3.0 Different shrinkage mixed yarns collected from 10 pieces each were divided into low-shrinkage yarns and high-shrinkage yarns, and the hot water shrinkage rate of each yarn was measured according to JIS method (L-1073). As a result, compared to the conventional method in which the take-up roller 7 is not heated as shown in FIG. The thread breakage rate was also good. Example 2 The same undrawn yarn as in Example 1 was used, the take-off roller 7 of the drawing device in FIG. A heating device 12 was installed, and the yarn was drawn and combined to 5M under the following conditions.
A different shrinkage blend yarn of en/38il was obtained.

供給ローラ−４の温度 ７５００熱処理
装置５の温度日， １８５ｑｏ補助加熱装
置１２の温度比 １００つ０延伸倍率
３．０得られた混線糸の糸質を
補助加熱装置を用いずに得た糸条の糸質と比較して第１
表に示した。Temperature of supply roller 4 7500 Temperature of heat treatment device 5 185 qo Temperature ratio of auxiliary heating device 12 100 0 Stretching ratio
3.0 The yarn quality of the obtained mixed yarn was compared with the yarn quality of yarn obtained without using an auxiliary heating device.
Shown in the table.

この混綾糸を用いて、トリコットを編み立て、染色仕上
げして評価したところ、本発明によって得られた収縮率
のバラッキを小さくした混織糸を用いた場合には製品の
風合、染色斑などに対してすぐれた性能を示したのに比
べ、比較例の混織糸を用いたものは全体に経筋の多い品
位の低いものしか得ることができなかった。第１表Using this mixed twill yarn, tricot was knitted and dyed and evaluated, and it was found that when the mixed woven yarn with reduced variation in shrinkage rate obtained by the present invention was used, the texture of the product and the dyeing unevenness. In contrast, the yarn using the blended yarn of the comparative example was only able to obtain a low-quality yarn with many warps throughout. Table 1

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief explanation of drawings]

第１図は本発明を実施するに使用する延伸装置の一例を
示した概略図、第２図は補助加熱装置の一例を示した斜
視図、第３図は引き取りローフー７の温度と熱水収縮率
の関係を示したグラフである。 ２，２′：末延伸糸、４：供給ローフー、５：加熱装置
、７：引き取りローフー、８：濠織糸、１２：補助加熱
装置。 第２図 第１図 第３図Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a stretching device used to carry out the present invention, Fig. 2 is a perspective view showing an example of an auxiliary heating device, and Fig. 3 is a diagram showing the temperature and hot water shrinkage of the drawing lo-fu 7. It is a graph showing the relationship between rates. 2, 2': end-drawn yarn, 4: supply lo-fu, 5: heating device, 7: take-up lo-fu, 8: moat weaving yarn, 12: auxiliary heating device. Figure 2 Figure 1 Figure 3

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】 １ ポリエステル繊維からなり、１２０〜２２０℃の範
囲の温度Ｈ＿１の熱固定処理が施された糸条と積極的な
熱固定処理を施されていない糸条を引き揃えた後、実質
的に糸条を収縮させることなく６０℃〜（Ｈ＿１−５０
）℃の範囲の温度Ｈ＿２で熱処理を施すことを特徴とす
る異収縮混繊糸の製造法。 ２ 糸条を引き揃える引き揃えローラーを加熱ローラー
となし、温度Ｈ＿２で熱処理を施すようにした特許請求
の範囲第１項に記載の異収縮混繊糸の製造法。 ３ 糸条を引き揃えた後、捲き取りに至るまでの任意の
位置に補助加熱装置を設け、温度Ｈ＿２で熱処理を施す
ようにした特許請求の範囲第１項に記載の異収縮混繊糸
の製造法。[Claims] 1 After aligning yarns made of polyester fibers that have been heat-set at a temperature H_1 in the range of 120 to 220°C and yarns that have not been actively heat-set. , 60℃~(H_1-50
) A method for producing a differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarn, characterized in that heat treatment is performed at a temperature H_2 in the range of °C. 2. The method for producing a differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarn according to claim 1, wherein the aligning roller for aligning the yarns is used as a heating roller, and the heat treatment is performed at a temperature of H_2. 3. After the yarns are aligned, an auxiliary heating device is provided at any position before winding them up, and heat treatment is performed at a temperature of H_2. Manufacturing method.