JPS60181339A - Production of reversible pleated fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57)【要約】本公報は電子出願前の出願データであるた
め要約のデータは記録されません。(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】 本発明は、一本の反物に異なる締ひた模様、異なる地色
、異なる地紋を表現した表地となる部分と裏地となる部
分を連続形成したリバーシブル月給ひだ織物の製造法に
ｒＡするもので、反物地の製織に に際して多数本の綿糸を経方向ぽ並列ｖ＃尭所定ピッチ
で騒人し、この綿糸により反物地をひた寄せして染色し
、ひだ増風を表現する締ひた織物において、表地となる
長さの範囲内の綿糸のピッチや運針状態と、裏地となる
長さの範囲（ハ）の綿糸のピッチや運釦状態を異なる状
態にジャガード紋仕立により騒人し、表地となる長さの
範囲内の地色と。DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention manufactures a reversible monthly pleat fabric in which a front part and a lining part expressing different tightening patterns, different ground colors, and different ground patterns are continuously formed on a single piece of fabric. In this method, when weaving a fabric, a large number of cotton threads are run in parallel in the warp direction at a predetermined pitch, and the fabric is gathered and dyed with these cotton threads to increase the pleats. In the tightened fabric that is expressed, the pitch and needle movement of the cotton thread within the length range for the outer material and the pitch and needle movement of the cotton thread in the length range (c) for the lining are made in different states to create a jacquard pattern. The color of the ground within the length that becomes the outer material.

裏地となる長さの範囲０の地色とを異なる地色に染色し
たことを特徴とするものである。It is characterized in that the ground color of the length range 0, which is the lining, is dyed in a different ground color.

また、表地となる長さの範囲（へ）の地紋と裏地となる
長さの範［（Ｂ）の地紋とを異なる地紋に製織したこと
を特徴とするものである。、 添付図面を診照して一実施例を詳述すると次の通りであ
る。Further, it is characterized in that the background pattern in the range of length for the outer fabric and the background pattern in the length range for the lining ((B)) are woven into different background patterns. An embodiment will be described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings.

第１図に示すように、表地となる長さの範囲内の地紋（
１）を小さな花弁４枚で構成した小紋地風に。As shown in Figure 1, the ground pattern within the length range of the outer material (
1) into a small pattern pattern composed of four small petals.

し地となる長さの範囲０の地紋（２）を横線状Ｃ：配し
たすだれ増風に製織する。A background pattern (2) with a length range of 0, which will serve as the background, is woven into a horizontal line C: arranged in a sudare gusaka.

この製織に際してジャガード紋仕立により一緒に綿糸（
３）を、表地となる長さの範囲（Ａ）４二おいては小紋
地風に合せて細かいピッチで且つ隣同志の綿糸（３）の
運針位置をずらした状態で経入し、表地となる長さの範
囲０においてはすだれ増風に合わせて表地となる長さの
範囲内より稍大きいピップで且つ全部の綿糸（３）の運
針位置を同位置（ニして丈夫な綿製の綿糸（３）を騒人
する。During this weaving, the jacquard pattern is created by combining the cotton threads (
3) is weaved in the length range (A) 42 that will be the outer material at a fine pitch to match the small pattern style and with the needle movement positions of adjacent cotton threads (3) shifted. In the length range 0, the needle movement position of all cotton threads (3) is set at the same position (2 and 3) with slightly larger pips than in the length range of the outer fabric in accordance with the increase in blind wind. Make a fuss about (3).

図面のものは、表地となる長さの範囲内と裏地となる長
さの範囲の）とのピッチ、運針状態のどちらも違わせた
場合を示しているが、ピッチを同じくして運針状態だけ
を違わせたり、運針状態を同じくしてピッチだけを違わ
せたりすれはいろいろ変化のある増風を表現することが
できる。　゛綿糸（３）は丈夫な綿糸やテトロン糸を使
用するが、熱処理により縮む性質を有する合成誠維糸を
使用しても良い。The drawing shows a case where both the pitch and hand movement conditions (within the length range for the outer material and the length range for the lining material) are different, but when the pitch is the same and only the hand movement state is different. By changing the movement of the hands, or by changing the pitch while keeping the hands moving in the same way, you can express various variations in the wind increase.゛For the cotton yarn (3), a durable cotton yarn or Tetoron yarn is used, but a synthetic fiber yarn that has the property of shrinking by heat treatment may also be used.

また綿糸（３）は騒人に限らずＨ人でも良い。Moreover, the cotton thread (3) is not limited to a person of high school, but may also be used for a person of sex.

表地となる長さの範囲内と裂地となる長さの範囲〇とに
ひた寄せを行う。The fabric is gathered within the length range that will become the outer material and the length range 〇 that will become the torn fabric.

ひだ寄せを行った表地となる長さの範囲内を朱色に、＆
：地となる長さの範Ｂ＠を紅色にはけ染またはスプレー
染する。The length of the pleated outer material is vermilion, &
: Brush or spray dye the base length range B@ in red.

この染加工はしごき染（捺染糊をヘラで塗りつける）、
ブラシ染、ロール染などでも良い。This dyeing process, ladder dyeing (applying the printing paste with a spatula),
Brush dyeing, roll dyeing, etc. may also be used.

はけ染またはスプレー染終了後蒸し処理して乗置とひた
くせの固定を行う。After the brush dyeing or spray dyeing is completed, it is steamed and then placed and fixed for a long time.

最後に綿糸（３）を抜き取る。Finally, pull out the cotton thread (3).

綿糸（３）を抜き取ると、表地となる長さの範囲（ト）
には細かく分断さ−れた凹凸が散在するような朱色の締
ひた増風が表現され、裏地となる長さの範囲■には横並
列のアコーディオン状の紅色の締ひだ増風が表現された
締ひた織物となる＠ 本発明は上述のように反物地の製織に際して多数本の綿
糸（３）を経方向並列に所定ピッチで騒人し、この給糸
（３）により反物地をひた寄せして染色し、ひだ増風を
表現する締ひた織物において、表地となる長さの範囲囚
の給糸（３）のピッチや運針状態と。When the cotton thread (3) is pulled out, the length range (g) that will become the outer material
The vermilion tight folds that appear to be scattered with finely divided unevenness are expressed, and the length range ■ that becomes the lining expresses horizontally parallel accordion-shaped red tight folds. As mentioned above, the present invention involves spinning a large number of cotton yarns (3) parallel to each other at a predetermined pitch in the warp direction when weaving a cloth fabric, and using these yarns (3) to thread the cloth fabric. The pitch and needle movement of the threads (3) within the length range of the outer fabric are used in tight woven fabrics that are dyed in piles to express the effect of increased pleats.

裂地となる長さの範囲（ロ）の給糸（３）のピッチや運
針状態を異なる状態にジャガード紋仕立により騒人し、
表地となる長さの範囲囚の地色と裏地となる長さの範囲
■の地色とを異なる地色に染色した締ひた織物であるか
ら同じ一層の締ひた織物でありながら表地となる長さの
範ｖＩｉｌＡＪと表地となる長さの範囲０とでは締ひた
模様、地色が異なるためこの締ひた織物で例えばコート
を仕立てれば表裏どちらも着用できるリバーシブルコー
トとなり、而かも同じ締ひた織物でありながら全く締ひ
た模様地色が異なるから例えば第２図に示す表地側を肴
用すれば細かく分断された凹凸が散在するような朱色の
締ひた増風となりまた第２図に示す裏地側を肴用すれば
横並列のアコーディオン状の紅色の細ひた増風となるた
め同じ締ひた織物のコートを二枚持っていると同じこと
になり、−眉のコートを二連りに着用できるから非常に
便利で経済的な締ひた織物となる。The pitch and needle movement of the yarn feed (3) in the length range (b) that will be torn fabric is varied, and the jacquard pattern is created to create a buzz.
It is a shimehito fabric that has been dyed in a different base color between the length range for the outer material and the ground color for the length range for the lining. The length range vIilAJ and the outer length range 0 have different shimehita patterns and ground colors, so if you make a coat with this shimehita fabric, it will be a reversible coat that can be worn on both the front and back. Even though they are made of the same shimehito fabric, the ground color of the shimehito pattern is completely different, so if you use the outer side shown in Figure 2, for example, you will get a vermilion shimehito with finely divided irregularities scattered about. If you use the lining side as shown in Figure 2, you will get an accordion-like red stripe arranged side by side, so if you have two coats made of the same tight fabric, it will be the same. Since the coat can be worn in two rows, it is a very convenient and economical tightening fabric.

その上表地となる長さの範囲（２）の地紋ｉｌｌと裏地
となる長さの範囲（ト）の地紋（２）とを異なる地紋（
１）＋２１に製織１したから締ひた模様、地色の他に更
に地紋（１）（２）も異なるため一層変化のある締ひた
織物となる。Furthermore, the background pattern ill in the length range (2) for the outer material and the background pattern (2) in the length range (g) for the lining are different (
1) Since weaving 1 was carried out at +21, the shimehita pattern is different, and in addition to the ground color, the ground patterns (1) and (2) are also different, resulting in a more varied shimehita fabric.

また表地となる長さの範ＩＢｉ（へ）と裏地となる長さ
の範囲０との増風のに化はジャガード紋仕立（；より地
紋（１）　（２）を製織する際使用した紋型紙をそのま
ま喫有キＷ虫１嘩キ吻呻峰櫨使用して給糸（３）のピッ
チ、運針状態を配列するから給糸（３）騒人のための型
紙は不必要となりそれだけコスト安に且つ地紋（ｌバ２
）に合った給糸（３）経入が容易に行い得ることになる
。In addition, the increase in the length range IBi (to) for the outer material and the length range 0 for the lining is the pattern paper used when weaving the jacquard pattern (; from the ground pattern (1) (2)). Since the pitch and needle movement condition of yarn feeding (3) are arranged by using the same method as it is, the pattern for yarn feeding (3) is unnecessary, and the cost is reduced accordingly. And the ground pattern (lba 2
) The yarn feeding (3) can be easily performed.

このように表地となる長さの範囲（５）と表地となる長
さの範囲（ハ）とは異なる給糸（３）のピッチと運釦状
独、染色、地紋（１）（２）により違わせているがどち
らも細ひた織物であることには変わりがなく、−反の反
物媚二異なる締ひた模様、地色、地紋（１）　＋２）を
表現した表地となる長さの範ＦＭ１（へ）と表地となる
長さの範囲０とを連続線成した締ひた織物となり、表裏
別々に着用できる便利で経済的なリバーシブル看物やコ
ートを裁断し得るリバーシブル月給ひた織物の製造法と
なる。In this way, the length range for the outer fabric (5) and the length range for the outer fabric (c) are different due to the pitch of the yarn feeding (3), the button pattern, the dyeing, and the ground pattern (1) and (2). Although they are different, there is no difference in the fact that they are both thin woven fabrics, and the length that becomes the outer material expresses different tightening patterns, ground colors, and ground patterns (1) + 2). A reversible woven fabric that has a continuous line of range FM1 and outer length range 0, and can be worn separately on the front and back, making it convenient and economical to cut reversible coats and coats. This is the manufacturing method.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief explanation of the drawing]

第１図は反物一部を拡大した給糸を騒人したひだ寄せ前
の正面図、第２図は一部を拡大した製品の正面図である
。 （す（２）・・地紋、（３）・・給糸。 昭和５９年２月２７日 出願人　関　口　良　− 手続補正パ書 昭和５９年１紗−２９日 特許庁長官若杉和夫　殿 １、事件の表示 昭和５９年　特許第３６８８８号 ２、発明の名称　リバーシブル月給ひた織物の製造法３
、補正をする者 事件との関係　特許出願人 関　口　良　− ５、補正命令の日付　゛昭和　年　月　日（自発） 特許　昭５９−３６８８８号手続補正書本願に関し明細
書中下記の箇所を補正する。 記 １　第４頁第１５行目から第５頁第１行目の「運針位置
を・・・・騒人する。」とあるを次のように補正する。 ［運針位置を同位置にして丈夫な給糸（３１を騒人する
。」 昭和５９年３月２９日 出願人　関　口　良　−Fig. 1 is a partially enlarged front view of the product before shirring, showing the fed yarn, and Fig. 2 is a partially enlarged front view of the product. ((2)... Ground pattern, (3)... Yarn feeding. February 27, 1980 Applicant: Ryo Sekiguchi - Procedural Amendment Pa., 1980, 1-29. Kazuo Wakasugi, Commissioner of the Japan Patent Office, 1. Indication of the case 1982 Patent No. 36888 2 Title of invention Method for manufacturing reversible monthly cover fabric 3
, Relationship with the case of the person making the amendment Patent applicant Ryo Sekiguchi - 5. Date of amendment order ゛Showa year, month, day (spontaneous) Patent No. 1983-36888 Procedural amendment The following parts of the specification are amended with respect to the present application. . Note 1: The phrase ``The position of the hands will be changed...'' from the 15th line of page 4 to the 1st line of page 5 will be corrected as follows. [Durable yarn feeding with the needle movement position at the same position (31 is used).” March 29, 1981 Applicant: Ryo Sekiguchi -

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】 １　反物地の製織し際して多数本の給糸な経方向並列に
所定ピッチで騒人し、この給糸にｌより反物地をひた寄
せして染色し、ひだ地風を表現する締ひた織物において
、表地となる長さの範＃Ｍ囚の給糸のピッチや運針状態
と。 裏地となる長さの範囲０の給糸のピッチや運針状態を異
なる状態にジャガード紋仕立により騒人し、表地となる
長さの範囲内の地色と。 裏地となる長さの範囲（ハ）の地色とを異なる地色に染
色したことな特徴とするリバーシブル月給ひた織物の製
造法。 ２　反物地の製織６＝際して多数本の給糸な経方向並列
に所定ピッチで騒人し、この給糸により反物地をひだ寄
せして染色し、ひだ地風を表現する締ひた織物において
、表地となる長さの範囲（へ）の地紋と、裏地となる長
さの範Ｈ０の地紋とを異なる地紋に製織し、表地となる
長さの範囲内の給糸のピッチや運針状厳と。 裏地となる長さの範囲０の給糸のピッチや運針状態を具
なる状態（＝ジャガード紋仕立により騒人し、表地とな
る長さの範囲内の地色と。 裏地となる長さの範囲０の地色とを異なる地色に染色し
たことを特級とするリバーシブル月給ひた織物の製造法
。[Scope of Claims] 1. When weaving a fabric, a large number of fed yarns are run in parallel in the warp direction at a predetermined pitch, and the fabric is piled up against the fed yarns for dyeing and pleats. In tight textiles that express the local style, the yarn pitch and needle movement of the length range #M that forms the outer material. The yarn pitch and needle movement of the length range 0, which is the lining material, is made into a jacquard pattern to create a buzz, and the ground color is within the length range, which is the outer material. A method for producing a reversible woven fabric characterized by dyeing the length range (c) that serves as the lining in a different background color from the background color. 2 Weaving of cloth fabric 6 = Often, a large number of yarns are fed in parallel in the warp direction at a predetermined pitch, and the yarns are used to pleat and dye the fabric fabric, creating a tightening process that expresses the pleated fabric style. In woven fabrics, weaving different background patterns for the length range (to) for the outer fabric and the background pattern for the length range H0 for the lining, and adjusting the yarn feeding pitch and needle movement within the length range for the outer fabric. The situation is serious. Length range for lining The yarn feeding pitch and needle movement state of 0 (= Jacquard pattern making makes a fuss, and the ground color within the length range for the outer material. Length range for lining) A method for producing a reversible fabric that is special in that it is dyed in a different ground color from the ground color of 0.