JPH09132834A - Worsted-tone composite combined filament yarn - Google Patents
Worsted-tone composite combined filament yarnInfo
- Publication number
- JPH09132834A JPH09132834A JP28284495A JP28284495A JPH09132834A JP H09132834 A JPH09132834 A JP H09132834A JP 28284495 A JP28284495 A JP 28284495A JP 28284495 A JP28284495 A JP 28284495A JP H09132834 A JPH09132834 A JP H09132834A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- yarn
- filament yarn
- worsted
- filaments
- heat
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
Abstract
Description
【０００１】[0001]
【発明の属する技術分野】本発明は，軽量感に富み，膨
らみ感があって，弾力性や反発性に優れ，かつ毛羽と自
然な形態斑を有する梳毛調風合の布帛となる梳毛調複合
混繊糸に関するものである。BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a combed-like composite which has a feeling of lightness, has a bulging feeling, is excellent in elasticity and resilience, and has a fluff and a natural morphological unevenness, which is a combed-like texture. It relates to mixed yarn.
【０００２】[0002]
【従来の技術】ポリエステルフィラメント糸による布帛
の着心地や外観を改善するために数多くの差別化素材が
開発され，紹介されている。特に，シルクを指向した分
野では，シルクのもつ膨らみ感やきしみ感等を，原糸製
造段階における異収縮混繊技術をベースにして，マイク
ロファイバー化やマイクロスリットの形成，カチオン可
染化等多岐にわたる工夫により表現する試みがなされた
結果，それぞれの用途に適合し得る素材が開発され，ほ
ぼ満足し得る状況となっている。2. Description of the Related Art Numerous differentiating materials have been developed and introduced to improve the comfort and appearance of fabrics made of polyester filament yarn. In particular, in the field of silk, the swelling and squeaking feelings of silk can be diversified into various types, such as microfiber formation, microslit formation, and cation dyeing, based on the heterogeneous shrinkage mixed fiber technology at the yarn production stage. As a result of attempting to express with various ideas, materials suitable for each application have been developed, and it is almost satisfactory.
【０００３】また，ウールを指向した分野では，ウール
のもつぬめり感を表現する手段として，触れば動くこと
のできる毛羽，いわゆる自由度の高い毛羽を形成するた
めに糸長差を有するポリエステルフィラメント糸が開発
され，また，ウールの膨らみを表現する手段として，捲
縮糸の膨らみを利用する方法が開発され，それなりに風
合は改善されてきた。しかしながら，これらの方法で得
られる布帛は, 依然としてポリエステルフィラメント糸
特有の硬さを有し，膨らみが不十分である，軽量感が少
ない，弾力性に欠ける，ソフトな毛羽感がない等，改善
されるべき多くの欠点を有し，満足のいく布帛は得られ
ていないのが現状である。In the field of wool, a polyester filament yarn having a difference in yarn length to form fluff that can be moved by touching, that is, so-called fluff having a high degree of freedom, is used as a means for expressing the slimy feel of wool. Was developed, and as a means of expressing the bulge of wool, a method of utilizing the bulge of crimped yarn was developed, and the texture has been improved accordingly. However, the fabrics obtained by these methods still have the hardness peculiar to polyester filament yarns, are insufficient in the bulge, are less lightweight, have less elasticity, have no soft fluffiness, and are improved. At present, there are many drawbacks to be solved, and a satisfactory fabric has not been obtained yet.
【０００４】一方，糸条の膨らみを表現する方法とし
て，例えば，特公平４-18051号公報，特公平３-42334号
公報，特開平２−293410号公報等では, 低収縮性糸条と
して加熱すると伸長する性質を有するフィラメントを用
い, このフイラメントと高収縮性のフィラメントとを複
合する方法が提案されている。これらの方法で得られる
異収縮混繊糸からの布帛は，膨らみを表現する手段とし
ては，例えば，低収縮性糸条として熱収縮性のフィラメ
ントを用いた異収縮混繊糸による膨らみに比べるとソフ
トな膨らみが得られ，伸長し，突出したフィラメントか
らなるループによりぬめり感が得られる等，一定の効果
は得られるものの，依然としてウールのもつ優れた膨ら
み，芯のない弾力性（芯がなく，軽い力で弾力を感じら
れること），反発性，軽量感が得られず，また，ウール
のもつ自然な斑感の表現もできないため，ポリエステル
フィラメント布帛と評される領域からは抜け出せないも
のであった。On the other hand, as a method of expressing the bulge of the yarn, for example, in Japanese Patent Publication No. 4-18051, Japanese Patent Publication No. 3-42334, and Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2-293410, heating is performed as a low shrinkage yarn. Then, there has been proposed a method of using a filament having a stretching property and combining this filament with a highly shrinkable filament. The cloth from the different shrinkage mixed fiber obtained by these methods is, as a means for expressing the bulge, compared with the bulging due to the different shrinkage mixed yarn using the heat shrinkable filament as the low shrinkage yarn. Although soft swelling is obtained, and a certain effect can be obtained, such as a feeling of sliminess due to the loop made of filaments that elongate and project, it still has excellent swelling and coreless elasticity (no core, You cannot feel the elasticity with light force), the resilience and the feeling of light weight, and you cannot express the natural mottled feeling of wool, so you cannot get out of the area that is described as polyester filament cloth. It was
【０００５】[0005]
【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明は，上記の問題
を解決し，ポリエステルフィラメント糸を用いて，真に
満足のいくウール様の軽量感，膨らみ感があって，芯の
ない弾力性に優れ，ソフトな毛羽感を表現し得る梳毛調
複合混繊糸を提供することを技術的な課題とするもので
ある。SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above problems and uses polyester filament yarn to provide a truly satisfactory wool-like lightweight feeling, swelling feeling, and coreless elasticity. It is a technical subject to provide a carded-like composite mixed yarn capable of expressing an excellent and soft fluff feeling.
【０００６】[0006]
【課題を解決するための手段】本発明者らは，上記の課
題を解決するために鋭意検討した結果，本発明に到達し
た。すなわち，本発明は，２本以上のポリエステルマル
チフィラメント糸が絡合した複合混繊糸であって，混繊
糸を構成する少なくとも１本の糸条Ａは捲縮を有し，他
の少なくとも１本の糸条Ｂは熱伸長性で，かつ構成フィ
ラメントの一部又は全部が単位長さ当たりの長さや並び
が不揃いの不整フイラメントとなっており，前記不整フ
イラメントによる毛羽指数が70〜 250であることを特徴
とする梳毛調複合混繊糸を要旨とするものである。な
お，毛羽指数は，毛羽測定器Ｆ−インデツクス（敷島紡
績社製）を用い，ゲージを0.3mm に設定して測定し，得
られる糸長１ｍ当たりの毛羽数である。Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have made intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result, have reached the present invention. That is, the present invention is a composite mixed yarn in which two or more polyester multifilament yarns are entangled, and at least one yarn A constituting the mixed yarn has crimps and at least one other yarn The yarn B of the book is thermally extensible, and part or all of the constituent filaments is an irregular filament having irregular lengths and arrangements per unit length, and the fluff index due to the irregular filament is 70 to 250. The gist of the invention is a worsted composite mixed yarn. The fluff index is the number of fluffs per 1 m of yarn length obtained by measuring with a fluff measuring instrument F-index (made by Shikishima Spinning Co., Ltd.) with a gauge set to 0.3 mm.
【０００７】[0007]
【発明の実施の形態】以下，本発明について詳細に説明
する。BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
【０００８】本発明の梳毛調複合混繊糸は，２本以上の
ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸が交絡して構成され
ているが，少なくとも１本の糸条Ａは捲縮を有している
ことが必要である。The worsted composite mixed yarn of the present invention is formed by interlacing two or more polyester multifilament yarns, but at least one yarn A must have crimps. Is.
【０００９】すなわち，糸条Ａとともに梳毛調複合混繊
糸を構成する他の糸条Ｂは熱伸長性を有しているので，
染色，仕上げ工程で受熱すると，糸条Ｂが伸長し，混繊
糸の外層を形成する。このときに糸条Ａは内層を形成す
るが，重要な点は，この内層部が集束し，図４に示すよ
うな２層中央管状構造を形成させないことである。この
ような構造を形成させると，布帛に糸長差によるぬめり
感や膨らみ感を与えることはできるが，ドレープ性が増
し，重み感が出て，ウール特有の軽量感，芯のない弾力
性を付与することができない。That is, since the other yarn B, which constitutes the worsted composite mixed fiber yarn together with the yarn A, has thermal extensibility,
When heat is received in the dyeing and finishing process, the yarn B extends and forms the outer layer of the mixed fiber. At this time, the yarn A forms an inner layer, but the important point is that the inner layer is converged and does not form a two-layer central tubular structure as shown in FIG. When such a structure is formed, it is possible to give the cloth a slimy feeling and a bulging feeling due to the difference in the yarn length, but the drape property is increased and the weight feeling is given, and the lightweight feeling unique to wool and the coreless elasticity are provided. Cannot be granted.
【００１０】本発明では，糸条Ａが捲縮を有しているた
め，複合混繊糸が染色仕上げ工程で受熱すると糸条Ｂが
伸長し，複合混繊糸の外層を形成するとともに，糸条Ａ
は，顕在クリンプに加えて潜在クリンプを顕在化させ，
集束することなく膨らみ，図３に示すような内層非集束
無隙間２層構造を形成するため，膨らみが極めて大きく
なり，軽量感が得られるとともに，芯を構成する内層が
集束していないため，芯のない弾力性，すなわち，軽い
力で弾力を感じる布帛とすることができる。In the present invention, since the yarn A has crimps, when the composite mixed fiber yarn receives heat in the dyeing and finishing step, the yarn B is elongated to form the outer layer of the composite mixed fiber yarn and Article A
Manifests the latent crimp in addition to the manifest crimp,
Since it swells without focusing and forms an inner-layer non-focusing non-gap two-layer structure as shown in Fig. 3, the swelling is extremely large and a lightweight feeling is obtained, and the inner layer forming the core is not focused, The fabric can be made to have coreless elasticity, that is, to feel elasticity with a light force.
【００１１】このような特性を得るためには，糸条Ａの
捲縮は堅牢性の強い，強固なものが好ましく，例えばＪ
ＩＳ−Ｌ−１０９０にいう伸縮伸長率（湿熱処理）で55
％以上，捲縮弾性率で80％以上の捲縮が好ましい。この
ような捲縮としては，例えば，サイドバイサイド型コン
ジュゲートヤーンを熱処理して得られる捲縮や, 仮撚
法, 押込法等の機械的操作で得られる捲縮がある。伸縮
伸長率が55％未満，伸縮弾性率が80％未満の捲縮では，
十分な内層非集束無隙間２層構造を形成することができ
ず，軽量感，膨らみ，反発性や芯のない弾力性は得られ
ない。In order to obtain such characteristics, the crimp of the yarn A is preferably strong and strong, for example J
The expansion and contraction rate (moisture heat treatment) according to IS-L-1090 is 55
% And a crimp modulus of 80% or more are preferable. Examples of such crimps include crimps obtained by heat-treating side-by-side type conjugate yarns and crimps obtained by mechanical operations such as false twisting and indentation. For crimps with a stretch elongation of less than 55% and a stretch elastic modulus of less than 80%,
It is not possible to form a sufficient two-layer structure with no inner layer non-focusing and no gap, and it is not possible to obtain a lightweight feeling, swelling, resilience and elasticity without a core.
【００１２】また，糸条Ａは，染色や仕上げ工程等で受
熱しても集束させないために熱収縮率が５％未満, 特に
１〜４％のものが好ましい。Further, the yarn A has a heat shrinkage ratio of less than 5%, particularly preferably 1 to 4% so that it is not focused even if it receives heat in the dyeing or finishing process.
【００１３】次に，糸条Ａとともに梳毛調複合混繊糸を
構成する他の糸条Ｂは，熱伸長性であること，すなわ
ち，熱収縮率が０％以下，熱処理後の糸長が処理前に比
べて長くなる熱伸長性糸であることが必要である。Next, the other yarn B, which constitutes the worsted composite mixed yarn together with the yarn A, is heat-extensible, that is, the heat shrinkage rate is 0% or less, and the yarn length after heat treatment is treated. It is necessary that the heat-extensible yarn be longer than before.
【００１４】本発明でいう熱収縮率は，通常熱水処理
（処理温度約 100℃）での収縮率を意味するが，熱水中
では自発伸長性を示さなくても，染色仕上げ加工等の後
工程で受ける最高の熱処理温度より低温の乾熱温度又は
湿熱温度で熱伸長性を示す糸条であれば，糸条Ｂとして
採用することができる。糸条Ｂは, いずれの処理温度に
おいても，熱収縮率は０％以下であることが必要である
が，特に−５％以下が好ましい。The heat shrinkage ratio in the present invention usually means the shrinkage ratio in hot water treatment (treatment temperature of about 100 ° C.). A yarn B can be adopted as long as it exhibits thermal extensibility at a dry heat temperature or a wet heat temperature lower than the maximum heat treatment temperature received in the subsequent step. The yarn B needs to have a heat shrinkage rate of 0% or less at any treatment temperature, but it is particularly preferably -5% or less.
【００１５】また，糸条Ｂは，構成フィラメントの一部
又は全部が単位長さ当たりの長さや並びが不揃いの不整
フイラメントとなっていることが必要である。すなわ
ち，図２で示すように，少なくとも一部のフィラメント
には長手方向に捲縮が斑状に発現し，さらに，曲がり，
ねじれ，フィラメント間で錯綜交絡している部分として
いない部分が存在している。このため，複合混繊糸はア
ーチ状ループによって毛羽指数が70〜 250の値を有し，
製編織して得られる布帛の風合は極めてソフトな手触り
感と温もり感を有するものとなる。また，不整フィラメ
ントの存在により，複合混繊糸の外観は自然な形態斑を
呈する。Further, in the yarn B, it is necessary that a part or all of the constituent filaments is an irregular filament in which the length per unit length and the arrangement are irregular. That is, as shown in FIG. 2, at least a part of filaments has crimp-like appearance in the longitudinal direction, and further, bends,
There are twists and twisted and intertwined portions between filaments. Therefore, the composite mixed yarn has a fluff index of 70 to 250 due to the arched loop,
The fabric obtained by knitting and knitting has a very soft touch and warmth. In addition, due to the presence of irregular filaments, the appearance of the composite mixed yarn has a natural morphological unevenness.
【００１６】図１は，糸条Ａと糸条Ｂで構成された本発
明の複合混繊糸の一実施態様を示す模式図であり，イの
部分が不整フィラメントによる毛羽である。本発明にお
いて，目的とする梳毛調の風合を得るためには，毛羽指
数は70以上が必要であるが， 250を超えると製編織時の
稼働効率が低くなり，また，着用中に切れ毛羽ができて
製品の品位が低下するので好ましくない。FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing an embodiment of the composite mixed yarn of the present invention composed of the yarn A and the yarn B, and the portion a is a fluff by an irregular filament. In the present invention, the fluff index needs to be 70 or more in order to obtain the desired combed-like texture, but if it exceeds 250, the operating efficiency during weaving and weaving will be low, and the fluff will be cut during wearing. This is not preferable because it causes the deterioration of product quality.
【００１７】本発明の複合混繊糸は，糸条Ｂの不整フイ
ラメントの存在で毛羽様外観と自然な形態斑を有するも
のであるが，捲縮が強いとウールの持つぬめり感が表現
し難いので，糸条Ｂに部分的な捲縮を付与する場合に
は，熱的操作により，弱い捲縮と不整フィラメントを同
時に形成させる方法を採用するのが好ましい。The composite mixed yarn of the present invention has a fluff-like appearance and natural morphological unevenness due to the presence of irregular filaments in the yarn B, but when the crimp is strong, the slimy feel of wool is difficult to express. Therefore, when a partial crimp is applied to the yarn B, it is preferable to adopt a method of simultaneously forming a weak crimp and an irregular filament by a thermal operation.
【００１８】すなわち，不整フィラメントと間歇的な捲
縮を有する糸条Ｂは，緩和されるべき歪を内在した高配
向未延伸糸を高度の弛緩率で熱処理するか，あるいは通
常の高配向未延伸糸を一旦低温，低倍率で延伸した後，
高温，高速下で高弛緩率で不均一に熱処理することによ
り得ることができる。That is, the yarn B having an irregular filament and an intermittent crimp is obtained by heat-treating a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a strain to be relaxed at a high relaxation rate or by a usual highly oriented undrawn yarn. After drawing the yarn once at low temperature and low magnification,
It can be obtained by non-uniform heat treatment at high temperature and high speed with a high relaxation rate.
【００１９】また，布帛に自然な斑感を付与するために
は, 糸条Ｂはイーブネス値が５％以上のものが好まし
い。本発明でいうイーブネス値とは，次の方法で求める
ものである。イーブネステスター（計測器工業社製）を
用いて，試料を糸速50ｍ／分で走行させ，仮撚を付与し
つつ試料の繊度（デニール）によりスロットを選択し，
ノーマルテストにて２分間測定し，チャートを2.５cm／
分で描かせる。次に，チャートを2.５cmごとに２分割
し，各々の区間の最高値Ｈ1,Ｈ2 及び最低値Ｌ1,Ｌ2 を
読み取り，次式により算定する。 イーブネス値（％）＝（｜Ｈ1 ＋Ｈ2 ｜／２＋｜Ｌ1 ＋
Ｌ2 ｜／２）×100 本発明の複合混繊糸は，糸条Ａと糸条Ｂとを含み，これ
らの糸条が混繊絡合して形成されており，その混繊絡合
の形態は，糸条全体が軽く絡合しているもの,あるいは
間歇的に交絡しているもののいずれでもよいが，本発明
の特徴を効果的に表現するためには，準備工程や製編織
工程で支障を生じない範囲で集束性の低いものが好まし
い。In order to impart a natural mottled feeling to the cloth, the yarn B preferably has an evenness value of 5% or more. The evenness value in the present invention is obtained by the following method. Using the Eve Nestester (Measuring Instrument Industry Co., Ltd.), the sample is run at a yarn speed of 50 m / min, and while the false twist is applied, the slot is selected according to the fineness (denier) of the sample,
Measured for 2 minutes in the normal test and the chart is 2.5 cm /
Let me draw in minutes. Next, the chart is divided into 2.5 cm intervals, and the maximum values H 1 and H 2 and the minimum values L 1 and L 2 of each section are read and calculated by the following formula. Ibunesu value (%) = (| H 1 + H 2 | / 2 + | L 1 +
L 2 | / 2) × 100 The composite mixed fiber of the present invention includes a yarn A and a yarn B, and these yarns are formed by mixed entanglement. The shape of the yarn may be lightly entangled or intermittently entangled. However, in order to effectively express the features of the present invention, the preparation process and the weaving process may be performed. Those having a low focusing property are preferable as long as they do not cause any trouble.
【００２０】本発明において，糸条Ａと糸条Ｂを構成す
るポリエステルとしては，ポリエチレンテレフタレート
（ＰＥＴ）に代表されるホモポリエステルや第３成分を
含む共重合ポリエステルが好適に用いられる。In the present invention, a homopolyester typified by polyethylene terephthalate (PET) or a copolyester containing a third component is preferably used as the polyester constituting the yarn A and the yarn B.
【００２１】次に，本発明の梳毛調複合混繊糸の製法例
を図面を用いて説明する。Next, an example of a method for producing the worsted composite fiber mixture of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.
【００２２】図６は，本発明の梳毛調複合混繊糸の一製
法例を示す概略工程図である。図６において，相対粘度
の異なるＰＥＴをサイドバイサイド型に複合紡糸して得
られたポリエステル高配向未延伸糸１は，スプール２か
ら引き出され，ガイド３を通り，フィードローラ４，デ
リベリローラ６の間でヒータ５により熱延伸が施され，
強固な捲縮を有する糸条Ａとなる。この熱延伸条件は，
伸縮伸長率が55％以上，伸縮弾性率が80％以上となるよ
う，温度や延伸倍率を適宜選定しなければならない。FIG. 6 is a schematic process drawing showing an example of a method for producing a worsted composite mixed yarn of the present invention. In FIG. 6, a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn 1 obtained by composite spinning PET having different relative viscosities into a side-by-side type is drawn from a spool 2, passes through a guide 3, and is fed between a feed roller 4 and a delivery roller 6 by a heater. 5 is heat stretched,
The yarn A has a strong crimp. This hot stretching condition is
The temperature and the draw ratio must be appropriately selected so that the expansion / contraction elongation is 55% or more and the expansion / contraction elastic modulus is 80% or more.
【００２３】一方，弛緩熱処理を施せば, 単フイラメン
トに太さ斑を有する不整フイラメントが形成され，熱伸
長性を示すように紡糸時の速度, 温度, 冷却固化点を調
整して得られた図５のような真直で整列した形態のフイ
ラメントで構成されたポリエステル高配向未延伸糸11
は，スプール12から引き出され，ガイド13を通り，フィ
ードローラ14とデリベリローラ16の間でヒータ15により
弛緩熱処理が施される。On the other hand, when the relaxation heat treatment is applied, an irregular filament having a thickness irregularity is formed in a single filament, and the figure obtained by adjusting the spinning speed, temperature, and cooling solidification point so as to show thermal extensibility. Polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn 11 composed of filaments in a straight and aligned form such as 5
Is drawn from the spool 12, passes through the guide 13, and is subjected to relaxation heat treatment by the heater 15 between the feed roller 14 and the delivery roller 16.
【００２４】その際，供給糸は，紡糸時に受けた歪みを
緩和しようとしてフィラメント相互が不規則に収縮する
ため，図２で示したような間歇的な捲縮を有し，長さや
並びが不揃いの不整フィラメントを形成した，熱伸長性
を有する糸条Ｂとなる。At this time, the supplied yarns have irregular crimps as shown in FIG. 2 because the filaments contract irregularly in order to alleviate the strain received during spinning, and the lengths and arrangements are not uniform. The yarn B having the heat-expanding property is formed by forming the irregular filaments.
【００２５】デリベリローラを出た糸条Ａと糸条Ｂは，
空気交絡器７により混繊交絡されて本発明の梳毛調複合
混繊糸となり，捲取装置８によりパッケージ９に捲き取
られる。The yarn A and the yarn B exiting the delivery roller are
The mixed and entangled fibers are entangled by the air entanglement device 7 to form the worsted composite mixed fiber of the present invention, which is wound by the winding device 8 into the package 9.
【００２６】次に，図７は，本発明の梳毛調複合混繊糸
の他の製法例を示す概略工程図である。図７において，
ポリエステル高配向未延伸糸21は，スプール22から引き
出され，ガイド23を通り，フィードローラ24，デリベリ
ローラ27間でヒータ25と仮撚施撚体26により仮撚が施さ
れ，強固な捲縮を有した糸条Ａとなる。Next, FIG. 7 is a schematic process drawing showing another example of the method for producing the worsted composite mixed yarn of the present invention. In FIG.
The polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn 21 is pulled out from the spool 22, passes through the guide 23, is false-twisted between the feed roller 24 and the delivery roller 27 by the heater 25 and false-twisting body 26, and has a strong crimp. It becomes the thread A.
【００２７】一方，ポリエステル高配向未延伸糸31は，
スプール32から引き出され，ガイド33を通り，第１フィ
ードローラ34と第２フィードローラ36との間で冷延伸あ
るいはヒータ35を用いて熱延伸が施され, 糸条に延伸歪
が与えられる。次いで，第２フィードローラ36とデリベ
リローラ38間で高度の弛緩率下にヒータ37で高速度の不
均一な収縮熱処理を行い，前記歪を緩和するようにフィ
ラメント相互を不規則に収縮させ，糸長差や間歇的な捲
縮を有する不整フィラメントを形成した熱伸長性の糸条
Ｂとする。On the other hand, the polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn 31 is
The yarn is drawn from the spool 32, passes through the guide 33, and is cold-drawn between the first feed roller 34 and the second feed roller 36 or hot-drawn by using the heater 35 to impart a drawing strain to the yarn. Then, the heater 37 performs a high-speed non-uniform shrinkage heat treatment between the second feed roller 36 and the delivery roller 38 at a high relaxation rate, and the filaments are irregularly shrunk to relax the strain, and the yarn length is shortened. The heat-extensible yarn B is formed by forming irregular filaments having a differential or intermittent crimp.
【００２８】デリベリローラを出た糸条Ａと糸条Ｂは，
空気交絡器28で混繊交絡され，捲取装置29によりパッケ
ージ30に捲き取られる。The yarn A and the yarn B exiting the delivery roller are
The fibers are mixed and entangled by the air entangler 28, and wound by the winding device 29 into the package 30.
【００２９】上記で使用する空気交絡器としては，公知
のインターレーサーノズルやタスランノズル等と呼ばれ
るエアージェットノズルを使用することができる。As the air entangler used above, an air jet nozzle known as an interlacer nozzle or a Taslan nozzle can be used.
【００３０】本発明の梳毛調複合混繊糸は，そのまま製
編織してもよいが，撚糸して布帛とすれば，形態斑をよ
り自然なものとすることができる。また，製編織して得
られる布帛を, 染色加工工程でアルカリ減量処理するこ
ともできる。The worsted composite mixed yarn of the present invention may be knitted or woven as it is, but if twisted into a cloth, the morphological unevenness can be made more natural. In addition, the cloth obtained by knitting and weaving can be subjected to alkali reduction treatment in the dyeing process.
【００３１】[0031]
【実施例】次に，本発明を実施例により具体的に説明す
る。なお，相対粘度は，フエノールと四塩化エタンとの
等重量混合溶媒を用い，濃度0.5g/dl,温度20℃で測定し
た。Next, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples. The relative viscosity was measured at a concentration of 0.5 g / dl and a temperature of 20 ° C. using an equal weight mixed solvent of phenol and ethane tetrachloride.
【００３２】実施例１ 糸条Ａ用の供給糸（糸条１）として，相対粘度1.385 と
1.258 のＰＥＴを１：１のサイドバイサイド型に複合紡
糸して得た高配向未延伸糸80ｄ／12ｆを用い，また，糸
条Ｂ用の供給糸（糸条11）として，Ｌ／Ｄが3.５の紡糸
口金でＰＥＴを3100ｍ／分の速度で紡糸して得た糸条60
ｄ／72ｆを用い, 図６の工程に従い，本発明の梳毛調複
合混繊糸を製造した。Example 1 As the supply yarn (yarn 1) for the yarn A, the relative viscosity was 1.385.
Highly oriented undrawn yarn 80d / 12f obtained by composite spinning 1.258 PET in a side-by-side type of 1: 1 was used, and L / D was 3. as the supply yarn (yarn 11) for the yarn B. A yarn 60 obtained by spinning PET with a spinneret of 5 at a speed of 3100 m / min.
Using d / 72f, the worsted composite fiber mixture of the present invention was produced according to the process shown in FIG.
【００３３】その際，糸条１に，非接触ヒータ温度 285
℃，延伸倍率1.５倍，デリベリローラ速度 600ｍ／分で
熱延伸を施し，熱収縮率 4.0％, 伸縮伸長率87.5％，伸
縮弾性率85％の捲縮糸条Ａを得た。一方，糸条11に，非
接触ヒータ温度 425℃，弛緩率27.5％〔弛緩率（％）＝
（供給速度（ｍ／分）−引取速度（ｍ／分））／引取速
度（ｍ／分）×１００〕，デリベリローラ速度 600ｍ／
分で収縮熱処理を施し，沸水収縮率−2.５％,160℃にお
ける乾熱収縮率−5.５％の熱伸長性を有し，かつ不整フ
ィラメントを有する糸条Ｂを得た。この糸条のイーブネ
ス値は30％であった。At that time, the non-contact heater temperature 285
Heat-stretching was performed at ℃, a draw ratio of 1.5 times, and a delivery roller speed of 600 m / min to obtain a crimped yarn A having a heat shrinkage ratio of 4.0%, a stretch elongation ratio of 87.5%, and a stretch elastic modulus of 85%. On the other hand, the yarn 11 has a non-contact heater temperature of 425 ° C and a relaxation rate of 27.5% [relaxation rate (%) =
(Supply speed (m / min) -take-off speed (m / min)) / take-off speed (m / min) × 100], delivery roller speed 600 m /
A shrinkage heat treatment was performed for a minute to obtain a yarn B having a boiling water shrinkage of -2.5%, a dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C of -5.5%, and a heat extensibility and having an irregular filament. The evenness value of this yarn was 30%.
【００３４】次いで，上記で得られた糸条Ａと糸条Ｂ
に, 市販のインターレーサー（ヘバーライン社製）を用
いて弛緩率2.０％，圧力3.０kg／cm2 で交絡処理を施
し，本発明の複合混繊糸を得た。この複合混繊糸 176ｄ
／48ｆのイーブネス値は20％, 毛羽指数は 130であっ
た。Then, the yarn A and the yarn B obtained above
Then, using a commercially available interlacer (manufactured by Heberline Co., Ltd.), a entanglement treatment was performed at a relaxation rate of 2.0% and a pressure of 3.0 kg / cm 2 , to obtain a composite mixed yarn of the present invention. This compound fiber 176d
The / 48f had an evenness of 20% and a fluff index of 130.
【００３５】得られた複合混繊糸を撚数 (Ｚ)500Ｔ／Ｍ
で追撚した糸条を経糸と緯糸に使用し，２／２ツイル組
織で製織し，分散染料による常法の染色仕上げ加工を行
った。得られた織物は，軽量感に富み，膨らみ感があっ
て，芯のない弾力性, 反発性に優れ，自然な形態斑のあ
る梳毛調風合を有するものであった。The resulting composite mixed yarn is twisted (Z) 500 T / M
The yarn twisted in 2 was used for the warp and weft, woven with a 2/2 twill design, and subjected to the usual dyeing finishing process with a disperse dye. The obtained woven fabric was light in weight, had a bulge, was excellent in coreless elasticity and repulsion, and had a combed feel with natural morphological unevenness.
【００３６】実施例２ 糸条Ａ用の供給糸（21) として, 酸成分として5-ナトリ
ウムスルホイソフタル酸を1.5 モル％共重合したカチオ
ン可染性ＰＥＴ高配向未延伸糸80ｄ／12ｆを用い，糸条
Ｂ用の供給糸（31) として, ＰＥＴ高配向未延伸糸80ｄ
／24ｆを用い，図７に示す加工工程に従い，本発明の梳
毛調複合混繊糸を製造した。Example 2 As the supply yarn (21) for the yarn A, a cationic dyeable PET highly oriented undrawn yarn 80d / 12f in which 1.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid was copolymerized as an acid component was used, As the supply yarn (31) for the yarn B, PET highly oriented undrawn yarn 80d
The carded-like composite mixed yarn of the present invention was manufactured by using / 24f according to the processing steps shown in FIG.
【００３７】その際，糸条21に，非接触ヒータ温度 220
℃，延伸倍率1.５倍，摩擦仮撚デイスク（ポリウレタン
１−７−１）を用い，Ｄ／Ｙ（デイスク表面速度／糸速
度）2.５，デリベリローラ速度 505ｍ／分で仮撚加工を
施し，熱収縮率3.5 ％, 伸縮伸長率93％，伸縮弾性率98
％の捲縮糸条Ａを得た。一方，糸条31に，ヒータ長 300
mmの非接触ヒータを用い，ヒータ温度 200℃，延伸倍率
1.１倍，引取速度1010ｍ／分で受熱が不均一となるよう
に熱処理を施し，次いで，非接触ヒータ温度 450℃，弛
緩率 100％，引取速度 505ｍ／分で熱処理を施し，沸水
収縮率−5.８％,160℃における乾熱収縮率が−15.8％の
熱伸長性を有し，かつ不整フィラメントを有する糸条Ｂ
を得た。この糸条のイーブネス値は38％であった。At that time, the temperature of the non-contact heater 220
℃, draw ratio 1.5 times, using a false false twist disc (polyurethane 1-7-1), D / Y (disc surface speed / yarn speed) 2.5, delivery roller speed 505 m / min. , Heat shrinkage rate 3.5%, stretch extension rate 93%, stretch elasticity rate 98
% Crimped yarn A was obtained. On the other hand, for the yarn 31, the heater length is 300
mm non-contact heater, heater temperature 200 ℃, draw ratio
Heat treatment was performed at 1.1 times and a take-up speed of 1010 m / min so that the heat received was non-uniform. Then, heat treatment was performed at a non-contact heater temperature of 450 ° C, a relaxation rate of 100%, and a take-up speed of 505 m / min. Yarn B having -5.8% and 160 ° C dry heat shrinkage of -15.8% with thermal extensibility and asymmetric filaments
I got The evenness value of this yarn was 38%.
【００３８】次いで，上記で得られた糸条Ａと糸条Ｂと
を, インターレーサー（デュポン社製）を用いて弛緩率
2.１％，圧力3.０kg／cm2 で交絡処理を施し，本発明の
複合混繊糸を得た。この複合混繊糸 199ｄ／36ｆのイー
ブネス値は28％であり，毛羽指数は 132であった。Then, the yarn A and the yarn B obtained above were subjected to a relaxation rate using an interlacer (manufactured by DuPont).
Entangling treatment was performed at 2.1% and a pressure of 3.0 kg / cm 2 to obtain a composite mixed yarn of the present invention. The compositeness yarn 199d / 36f had an evenness value of 28% and a fluff index of 132.
【００３９】得られた複合混繊糸に撚数（Ｚ）1000Ｔ／
Ｍで撚糸したものを経糸と緯糸に用い, 変わりサテン組
織に製織し，次いで減量率13％でアルカリ減量を施した
後，分散染料による常法の染色仕上げ加工を行った。The number of twists (Z) 1000T /
The yarn twisted with M was used as the warp and weft, and weaved into a different satin design, and then subjected to alkali weight loss with a weight loss rate of 13%, and then subjected to a conventional dyeing finishing process with a disperse dye.
【００４０】得られた織物は，嵩高で膨らみに優れるた
め，軽量感があって，しかも柔らかく，軽く握っても芯
がなく，放すと弾力性よく瞬時にして元の形に戻り，し
かも外観は太さ斑による自然な斑感があって，梳毛調風
合を有するものであった。Since the obtained woven fabric is bulky and excellent in bulging, it has a light weight feeling, is soft and has no core even if it is lightly gripped, and when released, it is elastic and instantly returns to its original shape. There was a natural mottled feeling due to thickness unevenness, and it had a carded-like texture.
【００４１】[0041]
【発明の効果】本発明の梳毛調複合混繊糸は上記の構成
を有するので，この糸条を製編織して熱処理すれば, 不
整フィラメントを有する熱伸長性のマルチフィラメント
が熱処理により布帛の表面に膨出すると同時に，内層を
形成するフィラメントが強い捲縮を発現して，２層構造
糸の内層を隙間なく，かつ含気性高く充填した構造を呈
するものとなる。さらに不整フィラメントによる毛羽を
有するため，ソフトでかつ膨らみに優れ，しかも芯のな
い弾力性, 反発性を発揮することから，従来のポリエス
テルフィラメント使いでは得られなかった梳毛調の風合
の布帛を得ることができる。しかも，本発明の複合混繊
糸は不整フィラメントの存在によって優れた太さ斑を有
するため，外観においても自然な斑効果を得ることがで
きる。EFFECT OF THE INVENTION Since the worsted composite mixed yarn of the present invention has the above-mentioned constitution, when the yarn is knitted and woven and heat-treated, the heat-expandable multifilament having irregular filaments is heat-treated on the surface of the fabric. At the same time, the filament forming the inner layer develops a strong crimp, and the inner layer of the two-layer structured yarn is filled with no air gap and has a high air content. Furthermore, because it has fluffs due to irregular filaments, it is soft and has excellent swelling, and because it exhibits coreless elasticity and repulsion, it provides a carded-like texture that cannot be obtained using conventional polyester filaments. be able to. Moreover, since the composite mixed yarn of the present invention has excellent thickness unevenness due to the presence of irregular filaments, a natural unevenness effect can be obtained in appearance.
【図１】本発明の梳毛調複合混繊糸の外観模式図であ
る。FIG. 1 is a schematic view of the outer appearance of a worsted composite fiber mixture of the present invention.
【図２】本発明の梳毛調複合混繊糸を構成する糸条Ｂの
外観模式図である。FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing the appearance of a yarn B constituting the worsted composite mixed fiber of the present invention.
【図３】本発明の梳毛調複合混繊糸を熱処理した後の状
態を示す断面模式図である。FIG. 3 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing a state after heat treatment of the worsted composite fiber mixture of the present invention.
【図４】従来の熱伸長性を示す糸条と熱収縮性を示す糸
条を複合した混繊糸を熱処理した後の状態を示す断面模
式図である。FIG. 4 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing a state after heat treatment of a conventional mixed fiber in which a yarn exhibiting heat extensibility and a yarn exhibiting heat shrinkage are combined.
【図５】本発明の梳毛調複合混繊糸を構成する糸条Ｂ用
の供給糸の外観模式図である。FIG. 5 is a schematic view showing the appearance of the supply yarn for the yarn B constituting the worsted composite mixed fiber of the present invention.
【図６】本発明の梳毛調複合混繊糸の一製法例を示す概
略工程図である。FIG. 6 is a schematic process drawing showing an example of a manufacturing method of the worsted composite mixed fiber of the present invention.
【図７】本発明の梳毛調複合混繊糸の他の製法例を示す
概略工程図である。FIG. 7 is a schematic process drawing showing another example of the method for producing the worsted composite mixed fiber of the present invention.
イ 不整フィラメントによる毛羽 Ａ 糸条Ａ Ｂ 糸条Ｂ Fluff with irregular filament A Thread A B Thread B
フロントページの続き (72)発明者 梅原 勉 京都府宇治市宇治小桜23番地 ユニチカ株 式会社中央研究所内Front page continuation (72) Inventor Tsutomu Umehara 23 Uji Kozakura, Uji City, Kyoto Prefecture Unitika Ltd. Central Research Laboratory
Claims (1)
ント糸が絡合した複合混繊糸であって，混繊糸を構成す
る少なくとも１本の糸条Ａは捲縮を有し，他の少なくと
も１本の糸条Ｂは熱伸長性で，かつ構成フィラメントの
一部又は全部が単位長さ当たりの長さや並びが不揃いの
不整フイラメントとなっており，前記不整フイラメント
による毛羽指数が70〜 250であることを特徴とする梳毛
調複合混繊糸。1. A composite mixed yarn in which two or more polyester multifilament yarns are entangled, and at least one yarn A constituting the mixed yarn has crimps and at least one other yarn. The yarn B is heat-extensible, and some or all of the constituent filaments are irregular filaments in which the length and arrangement per unit length are irregular, and the fluff index due to the irregular filament is 70 to 250. A carded-like composite filament yarn characterized by:
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP28284495A JP3547539B2 (en) | 1995-10-31 | 1995-10-31 | Worsted composite yarn |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP28284495A JP3547539B2 (en) | 1995-10-31 | 1995-10-31 | Worsted composite yarn |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPH09132834A true JPH09132834A (en) | 1997-05-20 |
| JP3547539B2 JP3547539B2 (en) | 2004-07-28 |
Family
ID=17657811
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP28284495A Expired - Fee Related JP3547539B2 (en) | 1995-10-31 | 1995-10-31 | Worsted composite yarn |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JP3547539B2 (en) |
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2002115133A (en) * | 2000-10-05 | 2002-04-19 | Unitica Fibers Ltd | High bulk composite-textured yarn and method for producing the same |
| JP2002115140A (en) * | 2000-10-13 | 2002-04-19 | Unitica Fibers Ltd | Grandrelle bulky finished yarn and method for manufacturing the same |
| WO2004065670A3 (en) * | 2003-01-17 | 2005-02-24 | Inst Textil & Faserforschung | Method and device for the production of multifilament yarns |
-
1995
- 1995-10-31 JP JP28284495A patent/JP3547539B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2002115133A (en) * | 2000-10-05 | 2002-04-19 | Unitica Fibers Ltd | High bulk composite-textured yarn and method for producing the same |
| JP2002115140A (en) * | 2000-10-13 | 2002-04-19 | Unitica Fibers Ltd | Grandrelle bulky finished yarn and method for manufacturing the same |
| WO2004065670A3 (en) * | 2003-01-17 | 2005-02-24 | Inst Textil & Faserforschung | Method and device for the production of multifilament yarns |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JP3547539B2 (en) | 2004-07-28 |
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