JPH07157968A - Production of special cellulosic fiber cloth - Google Patents
Production of special cellulosic fiber clothInfo
- Publication number
- JPH07157968A JPH07157968A JP30303993A JP30303993A JPH07157968A JP H07157968 A JPH07157968 A JP H07157968A JP 30303993 A JP30303993 A JP 30303993A JP 30303993 A JP30303993 A JP 30303993A JP H07157968 A JPH07157968 A JP H07157968A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- cellulosic fiber
- fiber cloth
- cloth
- special
- treatment
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
Landscapes
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
Abstract
Description
【０００１】[0001]
【産業上の利用分野】本発明は、ソフトタッチでハリ、
腰のあるセルロース系繊維特殊布帛の製法に関する。BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention is a soft touch,
The present invention relates to a method for producing a flexible cellulosic fiber special cloth.
【０００２】[0002]
【従来の技術】従来、綿織物を濃硫酸水溶液に短時間浸
漬することによりキシミ感やハリ、腰等を与えるオーガ
ンジー加工が知られているが、得られた製品の風合いが
硬くなり過ぎる欠点があった。風合いが硬くなり過ぎた
場合、柔軟剤等の界面活性剤を付与する方法やカレンダ
ー等で揉む物理的方法が知られているが、目的とするキ
シミ感やハリ、腰が損なわれるという欠点を有してい
た。2. Description of the Related Art Heretofore, it has been known that organ fabric processing which gives a tingling sensation, firmness, and waist by immersing a cotton fabric in a concentrated sulfuric acid aqueous solution for a short time, but has a drawback that the texture of the obtained product becomes too hard. It was When the texture becomes too hard, a method of applying a surfactant such as a softening agent or a physical method of rubbing with a calender is known, but it has a drawback that the desired crease feeling, firmness and waist are damaged. Was.
【０００３】[0003]
【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明の目的は、オー
ガンジー加工を施してもソフトタッチでハリ、腰を失わ
ないセルロース系繊維特殊布帛の製法を提供することに
ある。SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a special cellulose-based fiber cloth which does not lose its elasticity and firmness even if it is subjected to organdy processing.
【０００４】[0004]
【課題を解決するための手段】本願で特許請求される発
明は以下のとおりである。 （１）セルロース系繊維布帛を硫酸処理した後、湿潤状
態において揉布処理することを特徴とするセルロース系
繊維特殊布帛の製法。 本発明によって得られた特殊布帛は、布帛を構成するセ
ルロース系繊維糸条、特に織物では主に経糸において、
糸条断面を観察すると、中央部では硫酸処理によって単
糸は集束しているが、外周部では単糸が適度にバラケて
おり、かかる糸構造がソフトタッチでありながらハリ、
腰のあるものになる理由と考えられる。The inventions claimed in this application are as follows. (1) A method for producing a special cellulosic fiber cloth, which comprises treating the cellulosic fiber cloth with sulfuric acid and then kneading the cloth in a wet state. The special cloth obtained by the present invention is a cellulosic fiber yarn that constitutes the cloth, particularly in a woven fabric, mainly in the warp,
When the cross section of the yarn is observed, the single yarns are bundled by the sulfuric acid treatment in the central part, but the single yarns are moderately dispersed in the outer peripheral part, and although the yarn structure is soft touch, it is firm,
It is thought that this is the reason why it becomes stiff.
【０００５】本発明において、セルロース系繊維布帛と
は綿、麻、キュプラ、ビスコースレーヨン、ポリノジッ
クレーヨン（特に平均重合度５００〜６００が好まし
い）等の再生セルロース繊維、ライオセル（ＬＹＯＣＥ
ＬＬ、例えば繊維学会誌（繊維と工業）Ｖｏｌ．４８，
Ｎｏ．１１（１９９２）Ｐ．５８４〜Ｐ．５９１に記載
されているコートルズ社の商品名テンセルが相当する）
のフィラメントならびに紡績糸を単独または他の繊維と
混紡等糸段階で混用したものおよび／または交繊等布帛
段階で混用したものをいうが（混用率は５０％以下）、
キュプラ、ビスコースレーヨン、ポリノジックレーヨン
等の再生セルロース繊維やライオセルの一種以上で構成
されるものは、ビロードのごとき風合いを有しながらハ
リ、腰を兼ね備えたものとなるので好ましく、特に沸水
収縮率が１．５％以上、好ましくは２〜１２％の差があ
る２種以上の再生セルロース長繊維の交撚糸や混繊糸が
よい。なお、沸水収縮率の異なる再生セルロース長繊維
は、再生セルロース長繊維の紡糸方法を変えることによ
って得られる。例えば沸水収縮率はハンク法、ケーク法
＜ネットプロセス法＜連紡法の順に大きく、これらを希
望に応じて適宜組合わせればよい。In the present invention, the cellulosic fiber cloth means regenerated cellulose fibers such as cotton, hemp, cupra, viscose rayon, polynosic rayon (particularly preferably having an average degree of polymerization of 500 to 600), and lyocell (LYOCE).
LL, for example, Journal of the Textile Society of Japan (Fiber and Industry), Vol. 48,
No. 11 (1992) P.I. 584-P. Corresponds to the product name Tencel of Courtles, Inc. described in 591)
Filaments and spun yarns alone or mixed with other fibers at the yarn stage such as mixed spinning and / or mixed at the fabric stage such as mixed fiber (mixing ratio is 50% or less),
Cupra, viscose rayon, polynosic rayon and the like composed of one or more regenerated cellulosic fibers or lyocell is preferable because it has elasticity and firmness while having a texture such as velvet, and especially the boiling water shrinkage rate. Intertwisted yarns and mixed yarns of two or more types of regenerated cellulose continuous fibers having a difference of 1.5% or more, preferably 2 to 12% are preferable. The regenerated cellulose long fibers having different boiling water shrinkages can be obtained by changing the spinning method of the regenerated cellulose long fibers. For example, the boiling water shrinkage rate increases in the order of Hank method, cake method <net process method <continuous spinning method, and these may be appropriately combined as desired.
【０００６】上記セルロース系繊維布帛は、他繊維を混
用したものでもよく、かかる混用繊維糸条としては、ポ
リエステルに代表される合成繊維の原糸、有撚糸、意匠
糸、異収縮混繊糸、自発伸長混繊糸、梳毛調加工糸、例
えばポリエステル高配向未延伸糸（ＰＯＹ）のような高
伸度糸と低伸度糸、例えばポリエステルのレギュラー
糸、カチオン可染糸や６０００ｍ／分以上の巻取り速度
で紡糸されたスピンテイクアップ糸との引き揃え交絡仮
撚糸や紡績糸が挙げられ、希望する布帛風合いに応じて
適宜選定することができる。The above-mentioned cellulosic fiber cloth may be a mixture of other fibers. Examples of such a mixed fiber yarn include synthetic fiber typified by polyester, twisted yarn, design yarn, different shrinkage mixed yarn, Spontaneous stretched and mixed yarns, carded textured yarns, for example, high elongation yarns and low elongation yarns such as polyester highly oriented undrawn yarns (POY), for example regular polyester yarns, cationic dyeable yarns and 6000 m / min or more Examples include a false-twisted false-twisted yarn and a spun yarn that are aligned with a spin take-up yarn spun at a winding speed, and can be appropriately selected according to the desired fabric texture.
【０００７】セルロース系繊維は、必要に応じて１００
Ｔ／ｍ以上、好ましくは５００〜２０００Ｔ／ｍの撚糸
して用いてもよく、一時的に撚止め後、製編織され、次
いで染色工程でシボ立て処理される。シボ立ち布帛とし
ては、クレープ（パレス、フラット、デシン、楊柳、オ
リエンタル、ジョーゼット）、ボイル、チリメン等があ
る。[0007] Cellulosic fibers may be added as needed.
T / m or more, preferably 500 to 2000 T / m, may be twisted and used. After being temporarily twisted, it is knitted and woven, and then subjected to a graining treatment in a dyeing step. Examples of the embossed cloth include crepe (palace, flat, decin, Yangyanagi, Oriental, Georgette), voile, chilimen and the like.
【０００８】また、混用される他の繊維糸条も撚糸して
用いてもよく、撚方向もＳ撚とＺ撚を経糸および／また
は緯糸に交互に用いてもよい。硫酸処理における硫酸濃
度、処理温度や時間は、従来のオーガンジー加工条件の
範囲内で適宜選定すればよいが、好ましくは硫酸濃度は
４０〜６０％、特には５０〜６０％、温度は５〜２０
℃、時間は１〜１０秒がよい。Further, other mixed fiber yarns may be twisted and used, and as the twisting direction, S twist and Z twist may be alternately used for warp and / or weft. The sulfuric acid concentration in the sulfuric acid treatment, the treatment temperature and the time may be appropriately selected within the range of conventional organdy processing conditions, but the sulfuric acid concentration is preferably 40 to 60%, particularly 50 to 60%, and the temperature is 5 to 20.
The temperature and the time are preferably 1 to 10 seconds.
【０００９】硫酸処理後は、中和工程やソーピング工程
を施し（必要に応じて乾燥して）、次いで湿潤状態にお
いて揉布処理する。湿潤状態において揉布処理する方法
としては、例えば常圧ワッシャー、連続リラックス機、
液流染色機、気流染色機、ウィンス染色機中で湿潤状態
において揉布処理したり、セルロース系繊維の膨潤剤、
例えば再生セルロース繊維の場合はＮａＯＨ等のアルカ
リ水溶液中で揉布処理すると、ハリ、腰を保持しながら
ソフト風合いが得られるので好ましい。処理温度や処理
時間は希望する風合いに応じて適宜選定すればよいが、
例えば再生セルロース繊維布帛では、液流染色機で特に
常温付近より６０〜９０℃程度の高温で３〜５時間程度
がハリ、腰の保持とソフト風合いをバランスさせ易いの
で好ましい。After the sulfuric acid treatment, a neutralizing step and a soaping step are performed (drying if necessary), and then a kneading treatment is performed in a wet state. As a method for kneading in a wet state, for example, a normal pressure washer, a continuous relaxing machine,
In a jet dyeing machine, an air flow dyeing machine, or a wince dyeing machine, it is kneaded in a wet state, or a swelling agent for cellulosic fibers,
For example, in the case of regenerated cellulose fibers, it is preferable to perform a rubbing treatment in an alkaline aqueous solution such as NaOH because a soft texture can be obtained while maintaining firmness and waist. The treatment temperature and treatment time may be appropriately selected according to the desired texture,
For example, in the case of a regenerated cellulose fiber cloth, it is preferable to use a jet dyeing machine at a high temperature of about 60 to 90 ° C. from around room temperature for about 3 to 5 hours because it is easy to balance the waist retention and the soft texture.
【００１０】また、セルロース系繊維をあらかじめ酵素
（例えば再生セルロース繊維ではセルラーゼ酵素）によ
り減量しておくとハリ、腰の保持とソフト風合いをバラ
ンスさせ易いので好ましい。湿潤状態において揉布処理
する前にシワ加工したり、処理後、ぺーパーカレンダー
処理やシリコン系柔軟剤処理によって柔軟仕上げ加工し
てもよい。また、グリオキザール系樹脂等による防シワ
防縮加工や防水、防汚加工等のいわゆる樹脂加工を施し
てもよい。Further, it is preferable to reduce the amount of the cellulosic fiber with an enzyme (for example, cellulase enzyme in the case of regenerated cellulose fiber) in advance, since it is easy to balance the firmness and the retention of the waist and the soft texture. In the wet state, wrinkling may be performed before the rubbing treatment, or after the treatment, soft finishing may be performed by a paper calendar treatment or a silicone softening agent treatment. In addition, so-called resin processing such as anti-wrinkle and anti-shrink processing, waterproofing, and antifouling processing may be performed using a glyoxal resin or the like.
【００１１】本発明の特殊布帛は、特に外衣衣料として
利用した場合、その表面の外観や風合いによりきわめて
高級感のあるものであり、さらにソフトでありながらハ
リ、腰のある外衣となる。また、いわゆる防シワ防縮の
ための樹脂加工をしなくても、樹脂加工品に匹敵する
か、またはこれを上回る防縮性（洗濯収縮率およびドラ
イ収縮率）を有したものとなる。さらには、いわゆる縫
い目滑脱も改善されるという顕著な作用効果を有するも
のである。When the special cloth of the present invention is used as an outer garment, it has a very high-class appearance due to the appearance and texture of the surface thereof, and is a soft yet elastic and elastic outer garment. Further, even if the resin is not processed for so-called wrinkle prevention and shrinkage prevention, it has shrinkage resistance (washing shrinkage rate and dry shrinkage rate) comparable to or higher than the resin processed product. Further, it has a remarkable effect of improving so-called seam slippage.
【００１２】なお、外衣として用いる場合、芯地は薄く
てソフトなニット芯地が好ましく、接着芯地は特開平４
−３１６６８２号公報に開示されているようなドッド状
接着剤を２段に積層したダブルドッドタイプがよい。When used as an outer garment, the interlining is preferably a thin and soft knit interlining, and the adhesive interlining is disclosed in Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication (Kokai) No.
A double-dot type in which dodd-shaped adhesives as disclosed in JP-A-316682 are laminated in two stages is preferable.
【００１３】[0013]
【実施例】以下、本発明を実施例で具体的に説明する
が、本発明は実施例のみに限定されるものではない。 実施例１ 経糸および緯糸ともにキュプラ紡績糸（４０／−）を用
いた平織物（経９８本／インチ、緯８２本／インチ）
を、常法に従いリラックス精練、乾燥後、５７．５％硫
酸水溶液に１５℃、２秒間浸漬し、水洗、ＮａＯＨ水溶
液で中和、水洗、乾燥した。EXAMPLES The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to the examples. Example 1 A plain woven fabric (98 warps / inch, 82 wefts / inch) using cupra spun yarn (40 /-) for both warp and weft
After being subjected to relax scouring and drying according to a conventional method, it was immersed in a 57.5% sulfuric acid aqueous solution at 15 ° C. for 2 seconds, washed with water, neutralized with an aqueous NaOH solution, washed with water and dried.
【００１４】次いで、液流染色機を用いて、ＮａＯＨ水
溶液（６０ｇ／１）中、浴比１：１０、６０℃で４時間
揉布処理を行い、中和、水洗後、乾燥、柔軟仕上げ加工
した（経１０６本／インチ、緯８４本／インチ）。比較
例として、揉布処理を除いた以外は実施例１同様にして
仕上げたもの（比較例１）、揉布処理に代えて公知のカ
レンダー加工した以外は実施例１同様にして仕上げたも
の（比較例２）を得た。Then, using a jet dyeing machine, a cloth treatment is carried out in a NaOH aqueous solution (60 g / 1) at a bath ratio of 1:10 at 60 ° C. for 4 hours, followed by neutralization, washing with water, drying and softening. It was (106 lines / inch, weft 84 lines / inch). As a comparative example, a product finished in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the kneading treatment was omitted (Comparative Example 1), and a product finished in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a known calendering process was used instead of the kneading treatment ( Comparative example 2) was obtained.
【００１５】実施例１のものはビロードのごとききわめ
てソフトな風合いを有しながら、ハリ、腰を兼ね備えた
ものであったが、比較例１のものはキシミ感が強くソフ
ト風合いにはほど遠いものであり、比較例２のものはソ
フト風合いであったが、ハリ、腰の乏しいものであっ
た。The sample of Example 1 had a very soft texture such as velvet while having a firmness and waist, while the sample of Comparative Example 1 had a strong sense of crease and was far from the soft texture. There was, and the thing of Comparative Example 2 had a soft texture, but was firm and lacking in stiffness.
【００１６】[0016]
【発明の効果】本発明によれば、オーガンジー加工の際
に湿潤状態において揉布処理することにより、ソフトタ
ッチでありながらハリ、腰のあるセルロース系繊維特殊
布帛を得ることができる。EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention, by carrying out the kneading treatment in the wet state during the organdy processing, it is possible to obtain a cellulose-based fiber special cloth having a soft touch and a firmness and elasticity.
───────────────────────────────────────────────────── フロントページの続き (51)Int.Cl.6 識別記号 庁内整理番号 ＦＩ 技術表示箇所 // Ｄ０６Ｍ 101:06 ─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. 6 Identification code Office reference number FI technical display area // D06M 101: 06
Claims (1)
後、湿潤状態において揉布処理することを特徴とするセ
ルロース系繊維特殊布帛の製法。1. A method for producing a special cellulosic fiber cloth, which comprises subjecting the cellulosic fiber cloth to sulfuric acid treatment and then kneading in a wet state.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP30303993A JPH07157968A (en) | 1993-12-02 | 1993-12-02 | Production of special cellulosic fiber cloth |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP30303993A JPH07157968A (en) | 1993-12-02 | 1993-12-02 | Production of special cellulosic fiber cloth |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPH07157968A true JPH07157968A (en) | 1995-06-20 |
Family
ID=17916192
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP30303993A Withdrawn JPH07157968A (en) | 1993-12-02 | 1993-12-02 | Production of special cellulosic fiber cloth |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JPH07157968A (en) |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US6013367A (en) * | 1995-08-29 | 2000-01-11 | Asahi Kasei Kogyo Kabushiki Kaisha | Cellulose multifilament yarn and woven fabrics produced therefrom |
| US20200308737A1 (en) * | 2017-10-06 | 2020-10-01 | Lenzing Ag | Knitted continuous filament lyocell fabrics |
-
1993
- 1993-12-02 JP JP30303993A patent/JPH07157968A/en not_active Withdrawn
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US6013367A (en) * | 1995-08-29 | 2000-01-11 | Asahi Kasei Kogyo Kabushiki Kaisha | Cellulose multifilament yarn and woven fabrics produced therefrom |
| US20200308737A1 (en) * | 2017-10-06 | 2020-10-01 | Lenzing Ag | Knitted continuous filament lyocell fabrics |
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Legal Events
| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| A300 | Withdrawal of application because of no request for examination |
Free format text: JAPANESE INTERMEDIATE CODE: A300 Effective date: 20010206 |