JPH07150466A - Production of processed polyester fiber fabric - Google Patents
Production of processed polyester fiber fabricInfo
- Publication number
- JPH07150466A JPH07150466A JP32098093A JP32098093A JPH07150466A JP H07150466 A JPH07150466 A JP H07150466A JP 32098093 A JP32098093 A JP 32098093A JP 32098093 A JP32098093 A JP 32098093A JP H07150466 A JPH07150466 A JP H07150466A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- polyester fiber
- cloth
- alkali
- treatment
- fabric
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
Landscapes
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
- Artificial Filaments (AREA)
Abstract
Description
【０００１】[0001]
【産業上の利用分野】本発明は，布帛の表面に非常に細
かな毛羽を有するポリエステル繊維加工布帛の製造方法
に関するものである。BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester fiber-treated cloth having very fine fluff on the surface of the cloth.
【０００２】[0002]
【従来の技術】近年，布帛の表面に細かな毛羽を有する
表面変化に富んだ繊維素材が衣料分野において盛んに使
用されるようになってきている。これらに使用される素
材は，絹織物が主体になっており，絹織物の染色加工時
に液流染色機を用いて絹織物表面に物理的に摩擦を与
え，絹繊維にフィブリル化を生ぜしめてナチュラルな外
観を付与するものであり，摩擦によるいわゆる“スレ”
現象を故意に発生させたものである。また，ストーンウ
ォッシュ加工等により強度に“スレ”を発生させる方法
も実施されている。2. Description of the Related Art In recent years, a fiber material which has fine fluffs on the surface of a cloth and which is rich in surface variation has been actively used in the field of clothing. The materials used for these are mainly silk fabrics, and when the silk fabrics are dyed, a jet dyeing machine is used to physically rub the surface of the silk fabrics, causing the silk fibers to fibrillate and become natural. It gives a unique appearance and is so-called "thread" due to friction.
It is a phenomenon that was intentionally generated. In addition, a method that causes strong "threading" by stone washing is also practiced.
【０００３】近年，溶剤紡糸レーヨンを用いた同感覚の
素材も生産されるようになってきている。これは，溶剤
紡糸レーヨンがフィブリル化を生じやすいことに着目
し，液流染色機等を用いる場合の物理的衝撃とセルラー
ゼ酵素による減量処理によりフィブリル化を積極的に生
ぜしめ，布帛の表面に毛羽を発生させるものである。In recent years, materials with the same feeling have been produced using solvent-spun rayon. Focusing on the fact that solvent-spun rayon is prone to fibrillation, it actively produces fibrillation by physical impact when using a jet dyeing machine and weight reduction treatment with cellulase enzyme, and fluff is produced on the surface of the fabric. Is generated.
【０００４】しかしながら，これらの絹繊維や溶剤紡糸
レーヨン繊維は，非常に価格が高いという問題を有して
おり，高価格ゾーンの製品にのみ使用されているに過ぎ
ず，安価なポリエステル繊維布帛にこのような加工の施
された加工布帛は，未だ開発されていない。However, these silk fibers and solvent-spun rayon fibers have a problem that they are very expensive, and are only used for products in the high-priced zone, making them inexpensive polyester fiber cloths. A processed fabric that has been subjected to such processing has not been developed yet.
【０００５】[0005]
【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明は，このような
現状に鑑みて行われたもので，布帛の表面に細かな毛羽
を有するポリエステル繊維加工布帛を製造することを目
的とするものである。SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and an object of the present invention is to produce a polyester fiber-treated cloth having fine fluff on the surface of the cloth. .
【０００６】[0006]
【課題を解決するための手段】本発明は，上述の目的を
達成するもので，次の構成よりなるものである。すなわ
ち，本発明は，空隙率８〜５０％のポリエステル繊維を
含有する布帛をアルカリ減量処理し，しかる後に毛羽立
て処理することを特徴とするポリエステル繊維加工布帛
の製造方法を要旨とするものである。The present invention achieves the above-mentioned object and has the following configuration. That is, the gist of the present invention is a method for producing a polyester fiber-treated cloth, which is characterized in that a cloth containing polyester fibers having a porosity of 8 to 50% is subjected to alkali reduction treatment, and then fluffing treatment is performed. .
【０００７】以下，本発明を詳細に説明する。The present invention will be described in detail below.
【０００８】本発明方法では，空隙率８〜５０％のポリ
エステル繊維を含有する布帛を被加工布帛として用い
る。ここでいうポリエステル繊維とは，いわゆる中空型
ポリエステル繊維を意味し，その断面形状は，円形中空
型であっても，Ｃ型形状であっても，また，その他の特
殊な中空型断面形状であってもよい。また，中空部分に
溶解性の高いポリマーを含有し，アルカリ処理，熱水処
理等で容易に溶解する繊維であってもよい。In the method of the present invention, a cloth containing polyester fibers having a porosity of 8 to 50% is used as the cloth to be processed. The polyester fiber as used herein means a so-called hollow polyester fiber, and its cross-sectional shape may be a circular hollow type, a C-type, or any other special hollow type cross-sectional shape. May be. Further, it may be a fiber containing a highly soluble polymer in the hollow portion and easily dissolved by alkali treatment, hot water treatment or the like.
【０００９】空隙率は，８〜５０％の範囲が有効であ
り，好ましくは２０〜４０％の範囲である。The porosity is effectively in the range of 8 to 50%, preferably 20 to 40%.
【００１０】空隙率８〜５０％のポリエステル繊維を含
有する布帛とは，上述のポリエステル繊維のみからなる
布帛，または他繊維として綿，レーヨン，ナイロン，
麻，アセテート，ビニロン等の繊維が７０％以下の範囲
で混紡，交撚，交織等により混用されている布帛を意味
する。ウール，絹等のタンパク質系繊維は，後工程のア
ルカリ減量処理により溶解してしまうので，混用繊維と
しては適当ではない。A cloth containing polyester fibers having a porosity of 8 to 50% means a cloth composed only of the above polyester fibers, or other fibers such as cotton, rayon, nylon,
It means a fabric in which fibers such as hemp, acetate, and vinylon are mixed in a range of 70% or less by mixing spinning, twisting and weaving. Protein-based fibers such as wool and silk are not suitable as a mixed fiber because they are dissolved by the alkali weight reduction treatment in the subsequent step.
【００１１】本発明では，上述の布帛を被加工布帛とし
て用い，これにアルカリ減量処理を行う。アルカリ減量
処理に際し，予め必要に応じて通常の方法で糊抜，精
練，漂白等を行っておいてもよい。In the present invention, the above-mentioned cloth is used as the cloth to be processed, and alkali reduction treatment is applied to the cloth. In the alkali weight reduction treatment, desizing, scouring, bleaching and the like may be performed in advance by a usual method, if necessary.
【００１２】アルカリ減量処理に際しては，アルカリ剤
として苛性ソーダーまたは苛性カリを用い，アルカリ液
に布帛を浸漬する公知の方法によりアルカリ減量処理を
行うことができる。In the alkali weight reduction treatment, caustic soda or potassium hydroxide is used as the alkali agent, and the alkali weight reduction treatment can be carried out by a known method of immersing the cloth in the alkali liquid.
【００１３】このほかの減量方法としては，液流染色機
等によるバッチ方式，あるいはスチームを使用する連続
方式，Ｌ−ボックス等よる浸漬連続方式等，あらゆる減
量方式の使用が可能である。As other weight reduction methods, any weight reduction method such as a batch method using a jet dyeing machine, a continuous method using steam, a continuous immersion method using an L-box or the like can be used.
【００１４】アルカリによるポリエステル繊維の減量率
は，繊維重量に対して５〜３０％の範囲が適当である。
ただし，ポリエステルの空隙率，形態等により，最適減
量率は若干異なる。The weight reduction ratio of the polyester fiber due to the alkali is appropriately in the range of 5 to 30% based on the weight of the fiber.
However, the optimal weight loss rate is slightly different depending on the porosity and morphology of polyester.
【００１５】アルカリ減量処理の後，本発明方法では，
布帛に毛羽立て処理を行う。布帛に染色を必要とする場
合には，この毛羽立て処理前に，または毛羽立て処理後
に通常の方法で染色を行えばよい。After the alkali weight loss treatment, in the method of the present invention,
The fabric is fluffed. When the cloth needs to be dyed, it may be dyed by an ordinary method before the fluffing treatment or after the fluffing treatment.
【００１６】本発明方法でいう毛羽立て処理とは，前工
程の減量処理によって亀裂が入ったり，あるいは繊維軸
方向に裂けやすい状態になったポリエステル繊維に物理
的衝撃を加えることにより繊維軸方向に割れ目を入れ，
繊維をフィブリル化し，かつその細分化した繊維を毛羽
状に布帛の表面に引き出す処理を意味する。具体的に
は，液流染色機，ロータリーワッシャー等を用いて水の
共存化で運転し，加工機の有する揉み作用を応用して行
う処理等を一例として挙げることができる。さらに，よ
り一層の毛羽発生効果を希望する場合には，ロールカレ
ンダー処理，サンフォライズ機，カムフィット機等を用
いた圧縮処理，さらには，エメリー起毛機の併用等が有
効である。The fluffing treatment as used in the method of the present invention means that the polyester fibers which are cracked by the weight reduction treatment in the previous step or are easily split in the fiber axis direction are subjected to physical impact in the fiber axis direction. Make a crack,
This refers to a process in which fibers are fibrillated, and the finely divided fibers are fluffed to the surface of the fabric. Specifically, a treatment performed by coexisting with water using a jet dyeing machine, a rotary washer, and the like and applying the rubbing action of the processing machine can be given as an example. Further, when a further fuzzing effect is desired, roll calendering, compression treatment using a sanforize machine, cam fit machine, etc., and further combined use of an emery raising machine are effective.
【００１７】本発明方法では，縫製後にロータリー染色
機を使用して，減量処理，染色，毛羽立て処理をするこ
とも可能である。In the method of the present invention, it is also possible to carry out weight reduction treatment, dyeing and fluffing treatment using a rotary dyeing machine after sewing.
【００１８】本発明は，以上の構成よりなるものであ
る。The present invention has the above configuration.
【００１９】[0019]
【作 用】本発明方法のごとく，空隙率８〜５０％のポ
リエステル繊維を用いた布帛にアルカリ減量処理を施す
と，繊維自体がアルカリの作用により損傷されてフィブ
リル化しやすくなり，このような状態の布帛に毛羽立て
処理を施すと，ポリエステル繊維がフィブリル化して，
布帛の表面に細かい毛羽を有する変化に富んだポリエス
テル布帛が形成されるようになる。[Working] When a cloth made of polyester fiber having a porosity of 8 to 50% is subjected to alkali weight reduction treatment as in the method of the present invention, the fiber itself is easily damaged by the action of alkali and becomes fibrillated. When the fabric is fluffed, the polyester fibers become fibrillated,
A highly varied polyester fabric having fine fluff on the surface of the fabric is formed.
【００２０】これは，内部に空隙を有する，いわゆる中
空ポリエステル繊維は，長期にわたる過度の着用により
フィブリル化現象を起こし，毛羽立ちする欠点があり，
本発明方法は，この現象を逆に利用しようとするもので
あり，減量加工および毛羽立て処理により生地全体に均
一にフィブリル化を生ぜしめ，あたかもシルクのワッシ
ャー加工を思わせるような毛羽立ち効果を布帛に付与す
るものである。This is because a so-called hollow polyester fiber having voids inside has a drawback that fibrillation occurs due to excessive wearing for a long period of time and fluffing occurs,
The method of the present invention intends to utilize this phenomenon in reverse. The weight reduction process and the fluffing process cause uniform fibrillation in the entire fabric, and the fluffing effect reminiscent of the washer process of silk is obtained. It is given to.
【００２１】[0021]
【実施例】次に，本発明方法を実施例によってさらに説
明するが，本発明はこれに制限されるものではない。EXAMPLES Next, the method of the present invention will be further described by way of examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.
【００２２】実施例１ 中空率２３％のポリエステル繊維綿（断面円筒形，1.５
ｄ×３８mm）を７０％綿を３０％混紡した４０番手ブロ
ード（経糸密度１３０本／吋，緯糸密度７０本／吋；平
織）を用意し，これに通常の方法で糊抜，精練，漂白，
シルケット加工を施した後，液流染色機を用いて，下記
処方１の処理浴により，浴比１：３０にて９５℃，３０
分のアルカリ減量処理を行った。 処方１ 水酸化ナトリウム（４８度ボーメ） ５０ｇ／リッ
トルExample 1 Polyester fiber cotton having a hollowness of 23% (cylindrical cross section, 1.5
d × 38mm) 40% broad yarn (warp density 130 threads / inch, weft density 70 threads / inch; plain weave) prepared by mixing 30% cotton with 70% cotton, and desizing, scouring, bleaching,
After mercerizing, using a jet dyeing machine, a treatment bath of the following formulation 1 was used, and the bath ratio was 1:30 at 95 ° C, 30 ° C.
Alkaline weight loss treatment for minutes was performed. Prescription 1 Sodium hydroxide (48 degrees Baume) 50 g / liter
【００２３】このときのポリエステル繊維の減量率は，
9.３％であった。The weight loss rate of the polyester fiber at this time is
It was 9.3%.
【００２４】次に，通常の方法でポリエステルおよび綿
を分散染料と反応性染料でネイビーブルーに同色染色し
た。続いて，乾燥後，常温でカレンダー処理（５０kg／
cm）を行った後，再び液流染色機を使用して，７０℃で
２０分間の毛羽立て処理を行った。以下，通常の方法で
柔軟仕上げ処理を行った。Next, polyester and cotton were dyed in the same color as navy blue with a disperse dye and a reactive dye by a usual method. Next, after drying, calendering at room temperature (50 kg /
cm), and again using a jet dyeing machine, fluffing treatment was performed at 70 ° C. for 20 minutes. Below, a soft finishing process was performed by the usual method.
【００２５】このようにして得られた中空ポリエステル
・綿混紡織物は，生地表面に細かなうぶ毛状の毛羽が発
生し，しかも光の乱反射により表面にランダムに白っぽ
い光沢が見られた。顕微鏡で観察すると，ポリエステル
はフィブリル化し，細分化した毛羽が生地表面に密集し
ていることが確認された。この織物は，一見絹のシルク
ストーンウォッシュ加工織物と同様な外観，風合を呈し
ていた。The hollow polyester / cotton blended woven fabric thus obtained had fine fluffy fluff on the surface of the fabric, and the surface was randomly whitish due to irregular reflection of light. When observed under a microscope, it was confirmed that the polyester was fibrillated and the finely divided fluff was densely packed on the fabric surface. At first glance, this woven fabric had the same appearance and texture as the silk stone-washed woven fabric.
【００２６】実施例２ スルフォイソフタール酸を５モル％共重合したアルカリ
易溶性ポリエステル成分をＣ型断面の内部（４０％）に
有し，Ｃ型断面部（６０％）にポリエチレンテレフタレ
ート成分を有する複合ポリエステルフィラメント７５ｄ
／２４ｆを用いて，経糸密度２００本／吋，緯糸密度１
３０本／吋の平織物を製織した。Example 2 An alkali-soluble polyester component obtained by copolymerizing 5 mol% of sulfoisophthalic acid was contained inside the C-shaped cross section (40%), and a polyethylene terephthalate component was contained in the C-shaped cross section (60%). Composite polyester filament having 75d
/ 24f, warp density 200 threads / inch, weft density 1
A plain weave of 30 pieces / inch was woven.
【００２７】次に，通常の方法で精練後，液流染色機を
用いて，下記処方２の処理浴により浴比１：1.５にて９
５℃，４０分間のアルカリ減量処理を行った。 処方２ 水酸化ナトリウム（４８度ボーメ） ４０ｇ／リッ
トルNext, after scouring by a usual method, using a jet dyeing machine, a treatment bath having the following formulation 2 was used to give a bath ratio of 1: 1.5 to 9:
Alkali weight loss treatment was performed at 5 ° C. for 40 minutes. Prescription 2 Sodium hydroxide (48 degrees Baume) 40 g / liter
【００２８】このアルカリ減量処理により，Ｃ型断面繊
維の内部（４０％）を含めて，全体の５２重量％が減量
された。By this alkali reduction treatment, 52% by weight of the whole including the inside (40%) of the C-shaped cross section fiber was reduced.
【００２９】次に，通常の方法で，分散染料によりブラ
ウンに染色後，液流染色機の液圧を６５kg／cm2 に上げ
て３０分間の毛羽立て処理を行った。以下，通常の方法
で仕上げ加工を行った。Next, after dyeing brown with a disperse dye by an ordinary method, the liquid pressure of the jet dyeing machine was raised to 65 kg / cm 2 and fluffing treatment was performed for 30 minutes. Hereafter, the finishing process was performed by the usual method.
【００３０】このようにして得られたポリエステル繊維
織物は，表面に非常に細かな毛羽が発生し，しかもラン
ダムに光を乱反射し，非常に表面変化のある優れた外観
を呈していた。The polyester fiber woven fabric thus obtained had very fine fluffs on the surface and randomly diffused light, and had an excellent appearance with a very surface change.
【００３１】[0031]
【発明の効果】本発明方法によれば，生地表面に非常に
細かな毛羽を有し，シルクのストーンウォッシュ加工織
物調の外観，風合を呈するポリエステル繊維加工織物を
製造することができる。Industrial Applicability According to the method of the present invention, it is possible to produce a polyester fiber-treated woven fabric having very fine fluff on the surface of the fabric and exhibiting the appearance and texture of silk stone-washed woven fabric.
Claims (1)
含有する布帛をアルカリ減量処理し，しかる後に毛羽立
て処理することを特徴とするポリエステル繊維加工布帛
の製造方法。1. A process for producing a polyester fiber-treated fabric, which comprises subjecting a fabric containing a polyester fiber having a porosity of 8 to 50% to alkali reduction treatment, and then subjecting it to fluffing treatment.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP32098093A JPH07150466A (en) | 1993-11-26 | 1993-11-26 | Production of processed polyester fiber fabric |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP32098093A JPH07150466A (en) | 1993-11-26 | 1993-11-26 | Production of processed polyester fiber fabric |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPH07150466A true JPH07150466A (en) | 1995-06-13 |
Family
ID=18127446
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP32098093A Pending JPH07150466A (en) | 1993-11-26 | 1993-11-26 | Production of processed polyester fiber fabric |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JPH07150466A (en) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2001053593A1 (en) * | 2000-01-21 | 2001-07-26 | Komatsu Seiren Co., Ltd. | Production method for sewn product of woven/knitted fabric |
-
1993
- 1993-11-26 JP JP32098093A patent/JPH07150466A/en active Pending
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2001053593A1 (en) * | 2000-01-21 | 2001-07-26 | Komatsu Seiren Co., Ltd. | Production method for sewn product of woven/knitted fabric |
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