JPH0274646A - Fancy knit fabric - Google Patents
Fancy knit fabricInfo
- Publication number
- JPH0274646A JPH0274646A JP22634688A JP22634688A JPH0274646A JP H0274646 A JPH0274646 A JP H0274646A JP 22634688 A JP22634688 A JP 22634688A JP 22634688 A JP22634688 A JP 22634688A JP H0274646 A JPH0274646 A JP H0274646A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- knitted fabric
- yarn
- knitting
- knit
- yarns
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 78
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- 229920001707 polybutylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 abstract description 10
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 abstract description 8
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 abstract description 5
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 abstract description 2
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 11
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 6
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 3
- -1 polybutylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 210000003127 knee Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 description 2
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000008602 contraction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003801 milling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
Abstract
Description
【発明の詳細な説明】 （産業上の利用分野） 本発明は変り編地に関する。[Detailed description of the invention] (Industrial application field) The present invention relates to a variable knitted fabric.
（従来の技術）
一般的に衣服に対しては、その部位毎に要求される機能
が異なる筈であるが、現実の衣服では全体を単一の生地
素材を用いて構成することが多い。(Prior Art) Generally, the functions required for each part of clothing are different, but in reality, the entire clothing is often constructed using a single fabric material.
しかし、特に高度且つ多様なＩａ能が要求されるスポー
ツ用衣服では、かかる高度且つ多様の機能要求に対応し
て機能の異なる何種類かの生地素材を組合わせて用い、
Ｎ製工程で縫合わせることが行われている。この方法で
は、衣服の製造コストが極めて高くなるため必要最低限
の部分、例えば、袖口、裾等の伸縮性の特性が要求され
る部分にフライス編地を使用するなどに限られていた。However, especially for sports clothing that requires a high degree of Ia performance, several types of fabric materials with different functions are used in combination to meet the high and various function requirements.
Sewing is performed in the N manufacturing process. In this method, the manufacturing cost of the garment is extremely high, and therefore milling fabric is limited to the minimum necessary parts, such as cuffs, hems, and other parts that require elastic properties.
衣服に要求される部位別の機能のうち、肩、肘、腰、膝
等の関節部分に対応する部分には他の部分よりは伸縮性
が要求される。すなわち、これらの部位では、関節によ
り他の部位よりは屈曲性が大であり、その皮膚は大きな
伸縮を伴う。従って、これらの関節部分を覆う衣服部位
にも大きな伸縮性が要求されるの当然である。さらに、
これらの関節部分では、激しい運動の後で十分保温をす
ることも必要とされている。Among the functions required of clothing by region, parts corresponding to joints such as shoulders, elbows, hips, knees, etc. are required to have more elasticity than other parts. That is, these areas have greater flexibility due to their joints than other areas, and their skin undergoes greater expansion and contraction. Therefore, it is natural that the parts of clothing that cover these joints are required to have great elasticity. moreover,
These joints also need to be kept sufficiently warm after strenuous exercise.
この様な要求に十分答え得る衣服の生地素材は未だ＃ｉ
１発されいない。Clothes materials that can fully meet these demands are still lacking.
Not one shot was fired.
（発明の目的）
本発明の目的は、かかる衣服に使用するための生地素材
として部分的に厚さ、伸縮性を異にする変わり編地を提
案するものである。(Object of the Invention) The object of the present invention is to propose a variable knitted fabric having partially different thickness and stretchability as a fabric material for use in such clothing.
（発明の構成）
本発明は、表側編地と裏側編地とを適宜箇所でタック編
及びニット編、若しくはそのいずれかにより接結せしめ
ることにより形成した袋状の両面編地であって、該表側
編地を編成する糸より収縮性能が１０％以上大であるも
のを含む糸を用いて該裏側編地を編成し、収縮性能が小
である糸を用いて表側編地を編成することにより形成し
た膨れ線部分と収縮性能が小である糸を用いて表側編地
及び表側編地を編成した非膨れ線部分とからなり該膨れ
線部分と非膨れ線部分とが適宜間隔毎に配置されている
ことを特徴とする変り編地にある。(Structure of the Invention) The present invention is a bag-shaped double-sided knitted fabric formed by joining a front side knitted fabric and a back side knitted fabric at appropriate locations by tuck knitting and/or knitting, By knitting the back side knitted fabric using a yarn containing a yarn whose shrinkage performance is 10% or more higher than the yarn used to knit the front side knitted fabric, and knitting the front side knitted fabric using a yarn whose shrinkage performance is lower. It consists of the formed bulge line part and a front side knitted fabric and a non-bulge line part made by knitting the front side knitted fabric using a yarn with low shrinkage performance, and the bulge line part and the non-bulge line part are arranged at appropriate intervals. It has a unique knitted fabric that is characterized by
本発明に使用する膨れ線部分を有する両面編地を形成す
るには、シングルブリスター組織、ダブルブリスター組
織やウェルトリップル等のリップル組織、または表側編
地と堪側編地とをそれぞれ編成し、該表側編地と裏側編
地とを適宜箇所で接結した組織に編成するらのが例示さ
れる。In order to form a double-sided knitted fabric having a bulge line portion used in the present invention, a ripple structure such as a single blister structure, a double blister structure, or a well ripple structure, or a front side knitted fabric and a bottom side knitted fabric are knitted, respectively. An example is knitting a front side knitted fabric and a back side knitted fabric into a structure in which they are joined at appropriate locations.
また、この様な表側編地と裏側編地とをそれぞれ編成す
る際に裏側編地のコース数に対して表側編地のコース数
をより多くすることが好ましい。Further, when knitting such a front side knitted fabric and a back side knitted fabric, respectively, it is preferable that the number of courses of the front side knitted fabric is larger than the number of courses of the back side knitted fabric.
さらに、該膨れ線部分を形成する裏側編地を編成する糸
には、収縮性能が表側編地を編成する糸の収縮性能より
１０％以上大ぎいものが含まれていることが重要である
。Furthermore, it is important that the yarn used to knit the back side fabric forming the bulge line portion contains a yarn whose shrinkage performance is 10% or more greater than the shrinkage performance of the yarn used to knit the front side fabric.
収縮性能に差のある糸としては、熱収縮の低い糸と熱収
縮の高い糸との組合ねけが例示される。An example of yarns with different shrinkage performance is a combination of yarns with low heat shrinkage and yarns with high heat shrinkage.
すなわち、低収縮の糸としては、紡績糸が好適であり、
例えば、綿糸、綿／ポリエステル混紡糸、ポリエステル
紡績糸等の滞水収縮率が数％のものが例示される。一方
、高収縮の糸としては、ポリエステル、ナイロン等の長
線Ｎ′ｃあって、特に、ぞの仮撚加工糸が好ましく使用
され、特に、潮水収縮率が４０％を越えるものが好適で
ある。That is, spun yarn is suitable as a low shrinkage yarn,
Examples include cotton yarn, cotton/polyester blend yarn, polyester spun yarn, etc., which have a water shrinkage rate of several percent. On the other hand, as high shrinkage yarns, there are long wires N'c such as polyester and nylon, and particularly false twisted yarns are preferably used, and yarns with a salt water shrinkage rate of more than 40% are particularly preferred.
本発明においては、収縮性能の差としては、１０％以上
の糸を使用することが好ましい。In the present invention, it is preferable to use yarns with a difference in shrinkage performance of 10% or more.
高収縮糸としてかかる長繊維仮撚捲縮加工糸の中ではポ
リブチレンテレフタレート（ＰＢＴ）の仮撚捲縮加工糸
が最も好ましい。（ＰＢ口の仮撚捲縮加工糸は、捲縮発
現力がポリエチレンテレフタレートやナイロンの仮撚加
工糸よりも大であるため、張力のｕトかり易い染色工程
を含む場合は本発明の効果が得られ易い。Among such long fiber false-twisted crimped yarns as high shrinkage yarns, polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) false-twisted crimped yarns are most preferred. (The PB opening of the false-twisted crimped yarn has a greater crimp development force than the false-twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate or nylon, so the effect of the present invention will not be effective if it includes a dyeing process that is likely to cause tension. Easy to obtain.
さらに、高収縮性能の糸としてポリウレタン弾性糸や、
変性ポリエステル（’ｌ性糸が例示される。In addition, polyurethane elastic yarn is used as a yarn with high shrinkage performance,
An example is a modified polyester yarn.
高収縮性能の糸としてポリウレタン弾性糸のような高弾
性系を使用した場合は、低収縮の糸としては前記の紡績
糸は勿論使用できるが、さらに、前記のポリエステル、
ナイロン等の仮撚加工糸も低収縮側の糸として使用可能
である。When a high elasticity system such as polyurethane elastic yarn is used as a yarn with high shrinkage performance, the above-mentioned spun yarn can of course be used as a low-shrinkage yarn, but in addition, the above-mentioned polyester,
False twisted yarns such as nylon can also be used as low shrinkage yarns.
第１図は、本発明の編地の編方を示す編方図であって、
２４給糸から編成される例を示している。FIG. 1 is a knitting method diagram showing the knitting method of the knitted fabric of the present invention,
An example of knitting from 24 yarns is shown.
第１図において、１，２は表側編地と裏側編地とを接結
する給糸を示し、また、３．４，５．・・・のシリンダ
ー釦のみで編成されるものは表側編地を形成し、７．１
２．１７．２１のダイヤル針のみで編成されるものが裏
側編地を形成する。このようにシリンダー針のみで編成
されるものとダイヤル釧のみで編成されるものとは表側
編地と表側編地とをそれぞれ形成し１，２の給糸により
両者を接結して両面編地を形成する。In FIG. 1, 1 and 2 indicate yarn feeders that connect the front side knitted fabric and the back side knitted fabric, and 3.4, 5. The one knitted only with cylinder buttons... forms a front side knitted fabric, and 7.1
2.17.21 The fabric knitted only with dial needles forms the back side knitted fabric. In this way, those knitted only with cylinder needles and those knitted only with dial hooks are knitted on both sides by forming a front side knitted fabric and a front side knitted fabric, respectively, and connecting them with yarns 1 and 2. form.
このような袋状の両面編組織により編成する際に適宜長
さ毎に該表側編地を編成する給糸として（ＰＢＴ）の仮
撚加工糸等の収縮性能の大である糸を少なくともその一
部に用いて編成し、その収縮性能の差により膨れ線部分
を形成せしめる。When knitting such a bag-like double-sided knitted structure, at least one of the yarns with high shrinkage performance, such as a false twisted yarn (PBT), is used as a yarn supply for knitting the front side knitted fabric at appropriate lengths. The material is knitted in different parts, and the difference in shrinkage performance causes the formation of bulge line parts.
収縮性能が大きくない糸を用いて編成した部分では通常
の両面編地が形成されるから非膨れ線部分が形成される
。In the part knitted using a yarn that does not have high shrinkage performance, a normal double-sided knitted fabric is formed, so a non-bulge line part is formed.
このような給糸の切替えを編成中に行うには給糸ＶＪ
ｕえ装置の付いた編機により編成することができる。To perform such switching of yarn feeding during knitting, use yarn feeding VJ.
It can be knitted using a knitting machine equipped with a sewing device.
なお、かかる膨れ線部分と非膨れ線部分とは第１図の編
方に限定されるものではない。Note that the bulging line portion and the non-bulging line portion are not limited to the knitting method shown in FIG. 1.
（発明の作用）
本発明の編地はこのように表側編地と裏側編地を適宜箇
所で接結して編成した袋状の両面編地において、裏側編
地を構成する糸に強い収縮性能を有する糸を使用するの
で膨れ線部分が形成される。(Action of the invention) The knitted fabric of the present invention is a bag-shaped double-sided knitted fabric in which the front side knitted fabric and the back side knitted fabric are connected at appropriate points, and has strong shrinkage performance against the yarns constituting the back side knitted fabric. Since a thread having a diameter is used, a bulge line portion is formed.
該膨れ線部分では表側編地が経方向に収縮するので両面
編地が本来持っている緯方向に収縮する性質とともに経
緯の両方向に伸縮性を右する編地部分が得られる。この
ような膨れ線部分では特に経方向に収縮しその膨れ効果
によりＰりさが増し重１７４感のある編地となりやすい
。従って、このような膨れ編のみからなる編地を使ＦＭ
して衣服を構成するとシャープさに欠けるが、本発明
のように膨れ線部分と非膨れ線部分とを適宜配置させる
ことによりこのような欠点を改良することができる。Since the front side knitted fabric contracts in the warp direction at the bulge line portion, a knitted fabric portion is obtained that has the property of shrinking in the weft direction, which is inherent to double-sided knitted fabrics, and has elasticity in both weft and weft directions. Particularly in such bulge line portions, the fabric shrinks in the warp direction, and the bulge effect increases P stiffness, which tends to result in a knitted fabric with a heavy feel. Therefore, using a knitted fabric consisting only of such bulging stitches, FM
If the clothing is configured in such a manner, it lacks sharpness, but such a defect can be improved by appropriately arranging the bulge line portion and the non-bulge line portion as in the present invention.
なお、本発明の編地の膨れ線部分と非膨れ線部分の配置
は衣服型紙により膨れ線部分が必要な箇所（例えば、肩
、ヒジ、腰、ヒザ等の関節相当部分）を決め、実際の編
地における膨れ線部分の収縮率を考慮しながら膨れ線部
分と非膨れ線部分とを配置する編地長さ方向に沿った間
隔を決定し編成するればよい。Note that the placement of the bulge line portion and non-bulge line portion of the knitted fabric of the present invention is determined by determining the locations where bulge line portions are required (e.g., areas corresponding to joints such as shoulders, elbows, hips, knees, etc.) using the garment pattern, and The knitting may be performed by determining the spacing along the length of the knitted fabric at which the bulge line portions and non-bulge line portions are arranged, taking into consideration the shrinkage rate of the bulge line portions in the knitted fabric.
（実施例１）
２０ゲージの糸切替え装置（ストライバー）付きの丸編
機を用い第１図に示す１完全組織が２４フイーダーから
なる編方により編成するに際し、３゜４、５．６．８．
９．１０．１１．１３．１４． Ｉｓ、 １６゜１８、
１９．２０．２２．２３．２４フイーダーにはポリニス
デル仮撚加工糸（１５０ｄｅ／４８ ｆｉｔ）を用イテ
編成し、１ 、２．７．１２．１７．２１フイーダーに
はポリブヂレンテレフタレート（ＰＢＴ）の仮撚捲縮加
工糸（１５０ｄｅ／３２ ｆｉｌ）を用いてこの部分の
仕上長さが約２５ｃｍになるように膨れ線部分を編成す
る。次いで、前記の１．２．７．１２．１７．２１フイ
ーダーに供給した（ＰＢＴ）の仮撚加工糸に代えてポリ
エステル綿混紡糸（線発生３０番）を用い、他の給糸は
前記と同様にして編成し、この部分の仕上長さが約１２
０ｃｍになるように非膨れ線部分を編成する。さらに、
同様の編方により膨れ線部分を約５０ｃｍになるように
して編成し、非膨れ線部分を杓２００ｃｍになるように
編成する。以下かかる編成法により編成し、該編地を通
常の染色仕上工程に通して幅１６０ｃｍの編地を１ｑた
。この編地の膨れ線部分は、非膨れ線部分に比して厚さ
が約２倍あり該膨れ線部分の部分では経方向の伸縮性も
極めて大であり本発明が目的とする編地が得られた。(Example 1) When one complete structure shown in FIG. 1 was knitted by a knitting method consisting of 24 feeders using a circular knitting machine equipped with a 20-gauge yarn switching device (striver), 3°4, 5.6. 8.
9.10.11.13.14. Is, 16°18,
19.20.22.23.24 The feeder was knitted with polynisdel false twisted yarn (150de/48 fit), and the feeder 1, 2.7.12.17.21 was knitted with polybutylene terephthalate (PBT). ) The bulge line portion is knitted using false twisted crimped yarn (150 de/32 fil) so that the finished length of this portion is approximately 25 cm. Next, in place of the (PBT) false twisted yarn fed to the feeder in 1.2.7.12.17.21, a polyester cotton blended yarn (line generation number 30) was used, and the other yarns were fed as described above. Knit in the same way, and the finished length of this part is approximately 12
Knit the non-bulge line part so that it is 0 cm. moreover,
The same knitting method is used to knit so that the bulge line portion is approximately 50 cm long, and the non-bulge line portion is knitted so that the length is 200 cm. The knitted fabric was then knitted using the above knitting method, and the knitted fabric was subjected to a normal dyeing and finishing process to obtain 1q of knitted fabrics each having a width of 160 cm. The bulge line portion of this knitted fabric is about twice as thick as the non-bulge line portion, and the bulge line portion has extremely high elasticity in the warp direction, which is the purpose of the present invention. Obtained.
（実施例２）
糸切替え装置（ストライパー）付きのコンピュータージ
Ｖカード［を用い第２図に示す柄図によりヘリンボン柄
のダブルブリスター編地を編成する際、裏側編地を編成
する１、４，７．・・・の給糸には（ＰＢＴ）の仮撚捲
縮加工糸を使用し、他の給糸には、横断面が３角形状の
ポリニスデルフィラメント糸を使用して膨れ線部分を編
成し、非膨れ線部分には該（ＰＢ口の仮撚加工糸の代わ
りに綿糸（線発生３０番）を用いて編成し、膨れ線部分
と非膨れ線部分との配置が実施例１と同様になるように
編成した。得られた編地は、ヘリンボン柄の浮立った部
分は厚さが大で伸縮性に富みレオタード等のスポーツ着
の生地素材として適したものが得られた。(Example 2) When knitting a double blister knitted fabric with a herringbone pattern according to the pattern diagram shown in Fig. 2 using a computerized V card [with a thread switching device (striper)], knitting the back side knitted fabric 1, 4, 7. A false twisted crimped yarn of (PBT) is used for feeding the ..., and a polynisdel filament yarn with a triangular cross section is used for the other yarn feeding to knit the bulge line part. However, the non-bulging line part was knitted using cotton yarn (line generation number 30) instead of the false twisted yarn at the PB opening, and the arrangement of the bulging line part and the non-bulging line part was the same as in Example 1. The resulting knitted fabric had a large thickness in the raised herringbone pattern and was highly elastic, making it suitable as a fabric material for sportswear such as leotards.
第１図は、本発明の編地の編方の例を示す編方図、第２
図は、本発明の編地の他の編方を示す柄図である。FIG. 1 is a knitting method diagram showing an example of the knitting method of the knitted fabric of the present invention, and FIG.
The figure is a pattern diagram showing another knitting method of the knitted fabric of the present invention.
Claims (1)
ット編、若しくはそのいずれかにより接結せしめること
により形成した袋状の両面編地であって、該表側編地を
編成する糸より収縮性能が１０％以上大であるものを含
む糸を用いて該裏側編地を編成し、収縮性能が小である
糸を用いて該表側編地を編成することにより形成した膨
れ編部分と収縮性能が小である糸を用いて表側編地及び
裏側編地を編成した非膨れ編部分とからなり該膨れ編部
分と非膨れ編部分とが適宜間隔毎に配置されていること
を特徴とする変り編地。 ２、膨れ編部分を形成する表側編地と裏側編地を構成す
るコース数の比率が裏側編地コース１に対して表側編地
コースが１以上である請求項１の変り編地。[Scope of Claims] 1. A bag-shaped double-sided knitted fabric formed by joining a front side knitted fabric and a back side knitted fabric at appropriate locations by tuck knitting and/or knitting, the front side knitted fabric comprising: By knitting the back side knitted fabric using a yarn containing a yarn whose shrinkage performance is 10% or more higher than the yarn used to knit the knitted fabric, and knitting the front side knitted fabric using a yarn whose shrinkage performance is lower. It consists of the formed blistering knitted part and a non-bulging knitted part formed by knitting a front side fabric and a back knitted fabric using a yarn with low shrinkage performance, and the blistered knitted part and the non-bulged knitted part are arranged at appropriate intervals. A knitted fabric that is characterized by 2. The variable knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the ratio of the number of courses constituting the front side knitted fabric and the back side knitted fabric forming the bulging knitted portion is 1 or more for the front side knitted fabric course to 1 back side knitted fabric course.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP22634688A JPH0274646A (en) | 1988-09-12 | 1988-09-12 | Fancy knit fabric |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP22634688A JPH0274646A (en) | 1988-09-12 | 1988-09-12 | Fancy knit fabric |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPH0274646A true JPH0274646A (en) | 1990-03-14 |
Family
ID=16843726
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP22634688A Pending JPH0274646A (en) | 1988-09-12 | 1988-09-12 | Fancy knit fabric |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JPH0274646A (en) |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2004252594A (en) * | 2003-02-18 | 2004-09-09 | Mizuno Corp | Garment design support device and garment design support method |
| JP4865561B2 (en) * | 2003-10-16 | 2012-02-01 | リンドヴァル、 トミー | Conveyor friction drive device and drive method |
-
1988
- 1988-09-12 JP JP22634688A patent/JPH0274646A/en active Pending
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2004252594A (en) * | 2003-02-18 | 2004-09-09 | Mizuno Corp | Garment design support device and garment design support method |
| JP4865561B2 (en) * | 2003-10-16 | 2012-02-01 | リンドヴァル、 トミー | Conveyor friction drive device and drive method |
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