JP6866057B2 - 脂肪物質及び非イオン性界面活性剤を使用したケラチン繊維のための快適な酸化組成物 - Google Patents
脂肪物質及び非イオン性界面活性剤を使用したケラチン繊維のための快適な酸化組成物 Download PDFInfo
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- JP6866057B2 JP6866057B2 JP2014245708A JP2014245708A JP6866057B2 JP 6866057 B2 JP6866057 B2 JP 6866057B2 JP 2014245708 A JP2014245708 A JP 2014245708A JP 2014245708 A JP2014245708 A JP 2014245708A JP 6866057 B2 JP6866057 B2 JP 6866057B2
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- keratin fibers
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- fatty
- nonionic surfactant
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- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N tricaprin Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCC LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002889 tridecyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 229940118576 triisostearyl citrate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N trioctanoin Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCC VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940026256 trioctyldodecyl citrate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- FQAZRHVERGEKOS-UHFFFAOYSA-N tripropan-2-yl 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CC(C)OC(=O)CC(O)(C(=O)OC(C)C)CC(=O)OC(C)C FQAZRHVERGEKOS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ICWQKCGSIHTZNI-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris(16-methylheptadecyl) 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(O)(C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)CC(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C ICWQKCGSIHTZNI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BIEMOBPNIWQLMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris(2-octyldodecyl) 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCC(CCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CC(O)(C(=O)OCC(CCCCCCCC)CCCCCCCCCC)CC(=O)OCC(CCCCCCCC)CCCCCCCCCC BIEMOBPNIWQLMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NELZVYZKKXHHAB-IUPFWZBJSA-N tris[(z)-octadec-9-enyl] 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(O)(C(=O)OCCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC)CC(=O)OCCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC NELZVYZKKXHHAB-IUPFWZBJSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940099259 vaseline Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
(a) (a-1)式(i)
R-(O-Alk)n-OR' (i)
[式(i)中、
- Rは、直鎖状又は分枝状の、飽和又は不飽和のC10〜C30炭化水素系基を表し、
- R'は、直鎖状又は分枝状の、飽和又は不飽和のC10〜C30炭化水素系基を表し、これは、ヒドロキシル基で置換されていてもよく、
- nは、端数を含む1から100の間の整数であり、
- Alkは、直鎖状又は分枝状の、好ましくは直鎖状の、エチレン又はプロピレン、好ましくはエチレン等の、(C1〜C6)アルキレン基を表す]
の第1の非イオン性界面活性剤
及び
(a-1)第1の非イオン性界面活性剤以外の(a-2)第2の非イオン性界面活性剤
を含み、
好ましくは、(a)非イオン性界面活性剤の総量が、組成物の総量に対して0.5から20質量%の範囲である
少なくとも2種の非イオン性界面活性剤と、
(b)少なくとも1種の脂肪物質と、
(c)好ましくは組成物の総質量に対して0.5から30質量%の量にある、少なくとも1種の酸化剤と
を含む、毛髪等のケラチン繊維のための酸化組成物によって達成することができる。
(b-1)少なくとも1種の、室温で液体の脂肪物質と、
(b-2)少なくとも1種の、室温で固体の脂肪物質と
を含む。
少なくとも1種の還元剤を含む組成物をケラチン繊維上に適用する工程と;
任意選択でケラチン繊維をすすぐ工程と;
酸化組成物をケラチン繊維上に適用する工程と;
任意選択でケラチン繊維をすすぐ且つ/又は乾燥させる工程と
を含む。
(a) (a-1)式(i)
R-(O-Alk)n-OR' (i)
[式(i)中、
- Rは、直鎖状又は分枝状の、飽和又は不飽和のC10〜C30炭化水素系基を表し、
- R'は、直鎖状又は分枝状の、飽和又は不飽和のC10〜C30炭化水素系基を表し、これは、ヒドロキシル基で置換されていてもよく、
- nは、端数を含む1から100の間の整数であり、
- Alkは、直鎖状又は分枝状の、好ましくは直鎖状の、エチレン又はプロピレン、好ましくはエチレン等の(C1〜C6)アルキレン基を表す]
の第1の非イオン性界面活性剤
及び
(a-1)第1の非イオン性界面活性剤以外の(a-2)第2の非イオン性界面活性剤
を含み、
好ましくは、(a)非イオン性界面活性剤の総量が、組成物の総量に対して0.1から20質量%の範囲である
少なくとも2種の非イオン性界面活性剤と、
(b)少なくとも1種の脂肪物質と、
(c)好ましくは組成物の総量に対して0.5から30質量%の量にある、少なくとも1種の酸化剤と
を含む。
本発明による酸化組成物は、
(a) (a-1)式(i)
R-(O-Alk)n-OR' (i)
[式(i)中、
- Rは、直鎖状又は分枝状の、飽和又は不飽和のC10〜C30炭化水素系基を表し、
- R'は、直鎖状又は分枝状の、飽和又は不飽和のC10〜C30炭化水素系基を表し、これは、ヒドロキシル基で置換されていてもよく、
- nは、端数を含む1から100の間の整数であり、
- Alkは、直鎖状又は分枝状の、好ましくは直鎖状の、エチレン又はプロピレン、好ましくはエチレン等の(C1〜C6)アルキレン基を表す]
の第1の非イオン性界面活性剤
及び
(a-1)第1の非イオン性界面活性剤以外の(a-2)第2の非イオン性界面活性剤
を含む、
少なくとも2種の非イオン性界面活性剤
を含む。
第1の非イオン性界面活性剤は、式(i)
R-(O-Alk)n-OR' (i)
[式(i)中、
- Rは、直鎖状又は分枝状の、飽和又は不飽和のC10〜C30炭化水素系基を表し、
- R'は、直鎖状又は分枝状の、飽和又は不飽和のC10〜C30炭化水素系基を表し、これは、好ましくはエーテル官能基に対してβ位にあるヒドロキシル基で置換されていてもよく、
- nは、端数を含む1から100の間の整数であり、
- Alkは、直鎖状又は分枝状の、好ましくは直鎖状の、エチレン又はプロピレン、好ましくはエチレン等の(C1〜C6)アルキレン基を表す]
で表され、
それはまた、その光学異性体及び幾何異性体を含む。
Rは、セチル基とステアリル基とのブレンドを表し、nは、平均値が60である)
に一般に一致するポリエチレングリコール誘導体である。セテアレス-60ミリスチルグリコールは、例えばAkzo社により商標Elfacos GT 282 Sで販売されている。
第2の非イオン性界面活性剤は、(a-1)第1の非イオン性界面活性剤以外の非イオン性界面活性剤である。2種以上の非イオン性界面活性剤を、第2の非イオン性界面活性剤として組み合わせて使用してもよい。
モノオキシアルキレン化又はポリオキシアルキレン化(C8〜C24)アルキルフェノール、
飽和又は不飽和の、直鎖状又は分枝鎖の、モノオキシアルキレン化又はポリオキシアルキレン化C8〜C30アルコール、
飽和又は不飽和の、直鎖状又は分枝鎖の、モノオキシアルキレン化又はポリオキシアルキレン化C8〜C30アミド、
飽和若しくは不飽和の、直鎖状又は分枝鎖のC8〜C30酸のエステル、及びポリアルキレングリコールのエステル、
飽和又は不飽和の、直鎖状又は分枝鎖の、C8〜C30酸のモノオキシアルキレン化又はポリオキシアルキレン化エステル、及びソルビトールのモノオキシアルキレン化又はポリオキシアルキレン化エステル、
飽和又は不飽和の、モノオキシアルキレン化又はポリオキシアルキレン化植物油、
酸化エチレン及び/又は酸化プロピレンの、中でも、単独で又は混合物としての縮合物
が挙げられる。
RO-[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O]m-H又はRO-[CH(CH2OH)-CH2O]m-H
(式中、
Rは、直鎖状又は分枝鎖のC8〜C40、好ましくはC8〜C30アルキル基又はアルケニル基を表し、mは、1から30、好ましくは1.5から10の範囲の数を表す)
に相当する。
R'O-[CH2-CH(CH2OR''')-O]m-R''又はR'O-[CH(CH2OR''')-CH2O]m-R''
[式中、
R'、R''及びR'''のそれぞれは、独立して、水素原子、又は直鎖状若しくは分枝鎖のC8〜C40、好ましくはC8〜C30アルキル-CO-又はアルケニル-CO-基を表し、但しR'、R''及びR'''のうちの少なくとも1つは水素原子ではなく、mは、1から30、好ましくは1.5から10の範囲の数を表す]
に相当することができる。
HO(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b(C2H4O)cH
(式中、
a、b及びcは、a+cが2から100までの範囲であり、bが14から60までの範囲であるような整数である)
のコポリマー並びにそれらの混合物から選択することができる。
R1、R2及びR3は、互いに独立して、C1〜C6アルキル基又は-(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)z-OR4基を表し、R1、R2又はR3の少なくとも1つの基はアルキル基ではなく;
R4は、水素、アルキル基又はアシル基であり;
Aは、0から200の範囲の整数であり、
Bは、0から50の範囲の整数であり;但しAとBとが同時に0であることはなく;
xは、1から6の範囲の整数であり;
yは、1から30の範囲の整数であり;
zは、0から5の範囲の整数である]
の化合物である。
Aは、20から105の範囲の整数であり、Bは、2から10の範囲の整数であり、yは、10から20の範囲の整数である)
の化合物である。
H-(OCH2CH2)y-(CH2)3-[(CH3)2SiO]A'-(CH2)3-(OCH2CH2)y-OH (III)
(式中、
A'及びyは、10から20の範囲の整数である)
の化合物である。
本発明による酸化組成物は、少なくとも1種の脂肪物質を含む。2種以上の脂肪物質を組み合わせて使用してもよい。
- 動物起源の炭化水素系油、例えばスクアレン及びスクアラン;
- 植物又は合成起源のトリグリセリド油、例えば6から30個の炭素原子を有する液体脂肪酸トリグリセリド、例としてはヘプタン酸トリグリセリド若しくはオクタン酸トリグリセリド、或いは、例えば、ヒマワリ油、トウモロコシ油、大豆油、マロー油、ブドウ種子油、ゴマ種子油、ヘーゼルナッツ油、アプリコット油、マカダミア油、アララ油、ヒマシ油、アボカド油、カプリル酸/カプリン酸トリグリセリド、例としてはStearinerie Dubois社により販売されているもの、又はDynamit Nobel社により名称Miglyol(登録商標)810、812及び818で販売されているもの、ホホバ油及びシアバター油;
- 鉱物又は合成起源の、16個超の炭素原子を有する、直鎖状又は分枝状の炭化水素、例えば、揮発性又は不揮発性パラフィン及びそれらの誘導体、ワセリン(petroleum jelly)、ワセリン(Vaseline)、ポリデセン、水素化ポリイソブテン;
- フルオロ油、例としてはBNFL Fluorochemicals社により名称Flutec(登録商標)PC1及びFlutec(登録商標)PC3で販売されている、パーフルオロメチルシクロペンタン及びパーフルオロ-1,3-ジメチルシクロヘキサン;パーフルオロ-1,2-ジメチルシクロブタン;パーフルオロアルカン、例えば3M社により名称PF 5050(登録商標)及びPF 5060(登録商標)で販売されているドデカフルオロペンタン及びテトラデカフルオロヘキサン、又はAtochem社により名称Foralkyl(登録商標)で販売されているブロモパーフルオロオクチル;ノナフルオロメトキシブタン及びノナフルオロエトキシイソブタン;パーフルオロモルホリン誘導体、例えば3M社により名称PF 5052(登録商標)で販売されている4-トリフルオロメチルパーフルオロモルホリンを挙げることができる。
本発明の化粧用組成物は、少なくとも1種の酸化剤を含む。2種以上の酸化剤を使用してもよい。
本発明による酸化組成物は、ケラチン繊維のために化粧用酸化組成物中で通常使用される他の成分、特にケラチン繊維をカラーリングするための毛髪染色剤、又はケラチン繊維を再成形するための毛髪パーマネントウェーブ剤を含むことができる。他の成分には、水及び種々の補助剤が挙げられるがそれらに限定されない。
本発明による酸化組成物及び少なくとも1種のアルカリ剤を含む他の別個の化粧用組成物をケラチン繊維へ適用する直前に混合することによって即席で調製される化粧用組成物を、濡れた又は乾いたケラチン繊維へ適用する工程と;
およそ1から60分、好ましくはおよそ5から45分の範囲の曝露時間の間、混合された化粧用組成物を放置して作用させる工程と;
該繊維をすすぐ工程と;
任意選択でそれらをシャンプーで洗浄する工程、それらを再びすすぐ工程、次いでそれらを乾燥させる工程と
を含む方法によって行う。
ケラチン繊維へ変形のために機械的張力をかける工程と;
チオグリコール酸等の少なくとも1種の還元剤を含む化粧用組成物をケラチン繊維へ適用する工程と;
およそ5から40分の曝露時間の後、任意選択でケラチン繊維をすすぐ工程と、次いで、本発明による酸化組成物をケラチン繊維上へ適用する工程とを含む。およそ1から20分の曝露時間の後、任意選択で該繊維をすすぎ;任意選択でシャンプーで洗浄し、再びすすぎ、次いで乾燥させる。
良好:3Pas以上且つ4.5Pas以下である、安定な、増粘化された組成物
不良:3Pas未満であり、粘度はそれを取り扱うには低く、そのため組成物の所望の品質は達成されない
Claims (12)
- (a)(a-1)式(i)
R-(O-Alk)n-OR' (i)
[式(i)中、
- Rは、直鎖状又は分枝状の、飽和又は不飽和のC10〜C30炭化水素系基を表し、
- R'は、ヒドロキシル基で置換されていてもよい、直鎖状又は分枝状の、飽和又は不飽和のC10〜C30炭化水素系基を表し、
- nは、端数を含む1から100の間の整数であり、
- Alkは、直鎖状又は分枝状の(C1〜C6)アルキレン基を表す]
の第1の非イオン性界面活性剤
及び
(a-1)第1の非イオン性界面活性剤以外の(a-2)第2の非イオン性界面活性剤を含む、
少なくとも2種の非イオン性界面活性剤と、
(b)少なくとも1種の脂肪物質と、
(c)少なくとも1種の酸化剤と
を含み、
pH値が1.5〜7であり、アルカリ剤を含まない、ケラチン繊維のための酸化組成物。 - 脂肪物質が、組成物の総量に対して少なくとも10質量%の量で存在する、請求項1に記載の酸化組成物。
- (b)脂肪物質が、
(b-1)少なくとも1種の、室温で液体の脂肪物質と、
(b-2)少なくとも1種の、室温で固体の脂肪物質と
を含む、請求項1又は2に記載の酸化組成物。 - (b-1)液体の脂肪物質が、組成物の総質量に対して1.5〜78質量%の量で存在する、請求項3に記載の酸化組成物。
- (b-2)固体の脂肪物質が、組成物の総質量に対して0.5〜15質量%の量で存在する、請求項3に記載の酸化組成物。
- 脂肪物質の総量が、16から40質量%である、請求項1に記載のケラチン繊維のための酸化組成物。
- (b-1)液体の脂肪物質/(b-2)固体の脂肪物質の質量比が、3.0から5.2である、請求項3から6のいずれか一項に記載のケラチン繊維のための酸化組成物。
- (a-1)第1の非イオン性界面活性剤が、前記式(i)で表され、Rは、直鎖状の飽和のC16〜C18アルキル基を表し、R'は、OH基で置換されている直鎖状の飽和のC14アルキル基を表し、Alkは、エチレン基を表し、nは、平均値60を有する、請求項1から7のいずれか一項に記載のケラチン繊維のための酸化組成物。
- (a-2)第2の非イオン性界面活性剤が、ポリオキシエチレン化脂肪アルコールである、請求項1から8のいずれか一項に記載のケラチン繊維のための酸化組成物。
- 請求項1から9のいずれか一項に記載の酸化組成物をケラチン繊維へ適用する工程を含む、ケラチン繊維を染色する方法。
- 請求項1から9のいずれか一項に記載の酸化組成物をケラチン繊維へ適用する工程を含む、ケラチン繊維を脱色する方法。
- 少なくとも1種の還元剤を含む組成物をケラチン繊維に適用する工程と;
任意選択でケラチン繊維をすすぐ工程と;
請求項1から9のいずれか一項に記載の酸化組成物をケラチン繊維に適用する工程と;
任意選択でケラチン繊維をすすぐ且つ/又は乾燥させる工程と
を含む、
ケラチン繊維を変形する方法。
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FR2803195B1 (fr) * | 1999-12-30 | 2002-03-15 | Oreal | Composition pour la teinture d'oxydation des fibres keratiniques comprenant un polymere epaississant comportant au moins une chaine grasse et un alcool gras mono-ou poly-glycerole |
FR2831809B1 (fr) * | 2001-11-08 | 2004-07-23 | Oreal | Composition oxydante pour le traitement des fibres keratiniques comprenant une silicone aminee particuliere |
FR2977482B1 (fr) * | 2011-07-05 | 2013-11-08 | Oreal | Composition de coloration mettant en oeuvre un ether a longue chaine d'un alcool gras alcoxyle et un polymere cationique, procedes et dispositifs |
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