JP5108813B2 - Composite twisted yarn and woven or knitted fabric using this composite twisted yarn - Google Patents

Composite twisted yarn and woven or knitted fabric using this composite twisted yarn Download PDF

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JP5108813B2
JP5108813B2 JP2009076863A JP2009076863A JP5108813B2 JP 5108813 B2 JP5108813 B2 JP 5108813B2 JP 2009076863 A JP2009076863 A JP 2009076863A JP 2009076863 A JP2009076863 A JP 2009076863A JP 5108813 B2 JP5108813 B2 JP 5108813B2
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JP2010229584A (en
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宏一 手島
雅己 浅野
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ASANONENSHI CO., LTD.
Kuraray Trading Co Ltd
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本発明は、紡績糸と水不溶性フィラメント糸と水溶性糸とを撚り合わせた複合撚糸及びこの複合撚糸を用いて得られる織編物に関する。   The present invention relates to a composite twisted yarn obtained by twisting a spun yarn, a water-insoluble filament yarn, and a water-soluble yarn, and a woven or knitted fabric obtained using the composite twisted yarn.

紡績糸の織編物に伸縮性を付与するために、紡績糸とポリウレタンとを組み合わせた複合糸が広く用いられている。代表的な複合糸としては、ポリウレタンからなる芯糸の周りを紡績用綿で被覆して撚を与えたコアスパンヤーン、ポリウレタンからなる芯糸の周りに紡績糸を単層もしくは複層に巻きつけたシングル又はダブルカバードヤーン、2本以上の紡績糸とポリウレタン糸とを撚合わせたプライヤーンなどが挙げられる。しかし、これらの複合糸は、糸自体に伸縮性の大きいポリウレタンを有する撚糸であるため、製織編時において、糸の取り扱いに特殊な装置や高い技術を要する。また、ポリウレタンは熱劣化や光劣化等による経時劣化を引き起こすため、生地の伸縮性もそれに伴って消失する。   In order to impart stretchability to a woven or knitted fabric of spun yarn, a composite yarn combining a spun yarn and polyurethane is widely used. Typical composite yarns include core spun yarn in which the core yarn made of polyurethane is covered with spinning cotton and twisted, and the spun yarn is wound around a single layer or multiple layers around the core yarn made of polyurethane. And single or double covered yarns, pliers obtained by twisting two or more spun yarns and polyurethane yarns. However, since these composite yarns are twisted yarns having polyurethane with high elasticity in the yarns themselves, special devices and high techniques are required for handling the yarns during weaving and knitting. In addition, since polyurethane causes deterioration over time due to heat deterioration, light deterioration, and the like, the stretchability of the fabric disappears accordingly.

そこで、本発明者らは、特開2007−154339号公報(特許文献1)において、紡績糸、ゴム弾性を持たないフィラメント糸及び水溶性糸を撚り合わせた複合撚糸であって、前記複合撚糸の撚り方向が紡績糸の撚り方向と逆方向である複合撚糸を提案した。この複合撚糸を用いて得られた織編物から水溶性糸を溶解除去して得られた織編物は、高い伸縮性を有している。   Therefore, the present inventors disclosed in JP-A-2007-154339 (Patent Document 1) a composite twisted yarn obtained by twisting a spun yarn, a filament yarn not having rubber elasticity, and a water-soluble yarn, A composite twisted yarn was proposed in which the twisting direction was opposite to the twisting direction of the spun yarn. A woven or knitted fabric obtained by dissolving and removing water-soluble yarn from a woven or knitted fabric obtained using this composite twisted yarn has high stretchability.

しかし、この複合撚糸(例えば、紡績糸として、コットンやレーヨンの紡績糸を使用した複合撚糸)では、柔軟性や風合いに優れ、伸縮性を有しているものの、伸縮した後に元に戻ろうとする力(すなわち、伸縮性におけるキックバック性)が低く、繰り返しの使用によっても伸縮性が低下する。   However, this composite twisted yarn (for example, a composite twisted yarn using cotton or rayon spun yarn as the spun yarn) is excellent in flexibility and texture, and has elasticity, but tends to return to its original state after expansion and contraction. The force (that is, the kickback property in elasticity) is low, and the elasticity is reduced even by repeated use.

一方、特開昭54−2440号公報(特許文献2)には、非水溶性紡績糸と、少なくとも1本の水溶性繊維糸条からなり、かつ縫糸としての撚のバランスが維持されており、縫糸中の非水溶性紡績糸はもとの紡績糸の撚数の50%以下の撚糸となるごとく合撚もしくは諸糸条に構成されたタッキング用縫糸が開示されている。この文献には、Z撚の綿糸と水溶性糸とをS方向に合撚し、さらにこの合撚糸とS撚の水溶性糸とをZ方向に合撚したタッキング用縫糸が記載されている。   On the other hand, JP-A No. 54-2440 (Patent Document 2) is composed of a water-insoluble spun yarn and at least one water-soluble fiber yarn, and the balance of twist as a sewing thread is maintained. There has been disclosed a tacking sewing thread which is composed of a twisted yarn or various yarns so that the water-insoluble spun yarn in the sewing thread becomes a twisted yarn of 50% or less of the number of twists of the original spun yarn. This document describes a tucking sewing yarn in which a Z-twisted cotton yarn and a water-soluble yarn are twisted in the S direction, and this twisted yarn and an S-twisted water-soluble yarn are twisted in the Z direction.

しかし、このタッキング用縫糸は、精錬、染色工程での編織物の耳まき防止や柄ずれ防止のため、織編物を一時的に固定するために使用される糸(仮止め糸)であり、織編物を構成する糸ではない。また、この縫糸で織編物を作製した場合であっても、糸強力が低く、生産性が低い上に、得られた織編物も、形態安定性が低い。さらに、Z撚の綿糸を用いて最終的にZ方向に合撚したタッキング用縫糸の場合も、Z撚の綿糸がS方向に合撚しているため、キックバック性が低い。   However, this tucking thread is a thread (temporary set thread) used to temporarily fix a woven or knitted fabric in order to prevent knitting of the knitted fabric in the refining and dyeing processes, and to prevent pattern displacement. It is not the yarn that makes up the knitted fabric. Further, even when a woven or knitted fabric is produced with this sewing thread, the yarn strength is low, the productivity is low, and the obtained woven or knitted fabric has low form stability. Further, in the case of a tacking sewing thread that is finally twisted in the Z direction using a Z-twisted cotton thread, the kickback property is low because the Z-twisted cotton thread is twisted in the S direction.

特開2007−154339号公報(特許請求の範囲)JP 2007-154339 A (Claims) 特開昭54−2440号公報(特許請求の範囲、実施例)JP 54-2440 A (Claims, Examples)

従って、本発明の目的は、ポリウレタン糸などの弾性糸を使用しなくても、キックバック性の高い伸縮力を有する布帛を得るのに適した複合撚糸、この複合撚糸を用いて得られる織編物及びその製造方法を提供することにある。   Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide a composite twisted yarn suitable for obtaining a fabric having a high kickback stretchability without using an elastic yarn such as polyurethane yarn, and a woven or knitted fabric obtained using this composite twisted yarn. And a manufacturing method thereof.

本発明の他の目的は、繰り返し使用しても高いキックバック性を保持できる布帛を得るのに適した複合撚糸、この複合撚糸を用いて得られる織編物及びその製造方法を提供することにある。   Another object of the present invention is to provide a composite twisted yarn suitable for obtaining a fabric capable of maintaining a high kickback property even after repeated use, a woven or knitted fabric obtained using the composite twisted yarn, and a method for producing the same. .

本発明のさらに他の目的は、高い糸強力を有し、高速の織機や編機で製織編しても糸切れなどのトラブルが発生することなく、目寄れなどが抑制された形態安定性に優れた織編物を得るのに適した複合撚糸、この複合撚糸を用いて得られる織編物及びその製造方法を提供することにある。   Still another object of the present invention is to have a high yarn strength and form stability in which, even when weaving and knitting with a high-speed loom or knitting machine, troubles such as yarn breakage do not occur, and unevenness is suppressed. An object of the present invention is to provide a composite twisted yarn suitable for obtaining an excellent woven / knitted fabric, a woven / knitted fabric obtained using the composite twisted yarn, and a method for producing the same.

本発明者らは、前記課題を達成するため鋭意検討した結果、紡績糸、水不溶性フィラメント糸及び水溶性糸を前記紡績糸の撚り方向と同一方向に撚り合わせた複合撚糸を用いることにより、ポリウレタン糸などの弾性糸を使用しなくても、キックバック性の高い伸縮力を有する織編物を得るのに適していることを見いだし、本発明を完成した。   As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have made use of a composite twisted yarn obtained by twisting a spun yarn, a water-insoluble filament yarn, and a water-soluble yarn in the same direction as the twisted direction of the spun yarn. The present invention has been completed by finding that it is suitable for obtaining a knitted or knitted fabric having high kickback stretchability without using elastic yarn such as yarn.

すなわち、本発明の複合撚糸は、紡績糸、水不溶性フィラメント糸及び水溶性糸を、前記紡績糸の撚り方向と同一の方向に撚り合わせた複合撚糸である。前記複合撚糸の撚数は、紡績糸の撚数に対して0.3〜2倍程度である。前記紡績糸及び前記水不溶性フィラメント糸の総量と、水溶性糸との割合(質量比)は、前者/後者=95/5〜50/50程度であり、紡績糸と水不溶性フィラメント糸との割合(質量比)は、前者/後者=99/1〜50/50程度である。前記紡績糸は、単糸、複数の単糸を引き揃えた糸、双糸又は合撚糸であってもよい。前記水不溶性フィラメント糸は、ゴム弾性を有さず、かつ下記に示す捲縮伸長率が5%以上のフィラメント糸であってもよい。前記水溶性糸は、水溶性のフィラメント糸であってもよい。   That is, the composite twisted yarn of the present invention is a composite twisted yarn in which a spun yarn, a water-insoluble filament yarn and a water-soluble yarn are twisted in the same direction as the twist direction of the spun yarn. The number of twists of the composite twisted yarn is about 0.3 to 2 times that of the spun yarn. The ratio (mass ratio) between the total amount of the spun yarn and the water-insoluble filament yarn and the water-soluble yarn is about the former / the latter = 95/5 to 50/50, and the ratio of the spun yarn to the water-insoluble filament yarn. (Mass ratio) is about the former / the latter = 99/1 to 50/50. The spun yarn may be a single yarn, a yarn obtained by arranging a plurality of single yarns, a double yarn or a twisted yarn. The water-insoluble filament yarn may be a filament yarn that does not have rubber elasticity and has a crimp elongation of 5% or more as shown below. The water-soluble yarn may be a water-soluble filament yarn.

捲縮伸長率(%)=[(L2−L1)/L2]×100
[式中、L1は、検尺機で0.044cN/dtexの張力下で作製した11110dtexの輪奈状カセの輪奈に金棒を通して金棒を水平にした状態でカセの下端部に10gの重りを取り付けて5分間放置後、金棒を水平にした状態で90℃の水槽内にカセを浸漬して30分間加熱処理し、次いで、水槽からカセを引き上げて10gの重りを取り外し、乾燥後、再度10gの重りをカセの下端部に取り付けて5分間放置したときのカセの全長を示し、
L2は、カセの全長L1を測定後、カセから10gの重りを取り外し、代わりに1000gの重りをカセの下端部に取り付けて5分間放置したときのカセの全長を示す]。
Crimp elongation (%) = [(L2-L1) / L2] × 100
[In the formula, L1 has a weight of 10 g at the lower end of the casserole in a state where the metal rod is leveled through a 11110 dtex wrinkle wrench manufactured by a measuring instrument under a tension of 0.044 cN / dtex. After attaching and leaving for 5 minutes, immerse the casserole in a 90 ° C. water bath with the metal rod leveled, heat-treat for 30 minutes, then lift the casserole from the water bath to remove the 10 g weight, dry, and then again 10 g Shows the total length of the casserole when the weight is attached to the lower end of the casserole and left for 5 minutes,
L2 indicates the total length of the cassette when the total length L1 of the cassette is measured, the weight of 10 g is removed from the cassette, and instead the 1000-gram weight is attached to the lower end of the cassette and left for 5 minutes.

本発明には、前記複合撚糸を含む織編物も含まれる。この織編物は、複合撚糸の割合が20質量%以上であってもよい。   The present invention also includes a woven or knitted fabric containing the composite twisted yarn. The woven or knitted fabric may have a composite twisted yarn ratio of 20% by mass or more.

本発明には、前記織編物から、織編物を構成する複合撚糸中の水溶性糸を親水性溶媒に溶解させて除去する布帛の製造方法、及びこの製造方法により得られた布帛も含まれる。本発明の布帛は、紡績糸及び水不溶性フィラメント糸を撚り合わせた複合撚糸を含み、かつ下記に示す伸長率及び回復率が、それぞれ15%以上及び50%以上である布帛であって、前記複合撚糸の撚りが撓みを有し、前記複合撚糸の撚り方向が前記紡績糸の撚り方向と同一方向であり、かつ前記複合撚糸の撚数が、前記紡績糸の撚数に対して0.5〜2倍である布帛であってもよい。   The present invention also includes a method for producing a fabric in which the water-soluble yarn in the composite twisted yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric is removed from the woven or knitted fabric in a hydrophilic solvent, and a fabric obtained by this production method. The fabric of the present invention is a fabric comprising a composite twisted yarn in which a spun yarn and a water-insoluble filament yarn are twisted, and the elongation and recovery shown below are 15% or more and 50% or more, respectively. The twist of the twisted yarn has deflection, the twist direction of the composite twisted yarn is the same direction as the twist direction of the spun yarn, and the twist number of the composite twisted yarn is 0.5 to The fabric may be doubled.

伸長率(%)=[(L2−L1)/L1]×100
[式中、L1は、長さ15cm及び幅2.5cmの布帛の長さ方向の一方の端部の中央(幅方向の中央)に5gの重りを取り付け、重りを付けた端部を下にして布帛を垂直に吊した状態で1分間放置したときの布帛の長さを示し、
L2は、長さL1を測定後、5gの重りを布帛の端部から取り去り、代わりに300gの重りを同じ箇所に取り付けて垂直に吊した状態で3分間放置したときの布帛の長さを示す]
回復率(%)=[(L3−L1)/L1]×100
[式中、L1は、前記に同じであり、
L3は、長さL2を測定後、300gの重りを布帛の端部から取り去り、布帛を平坦なところに5時間放置し、その後、5gの重りを同じ箇所に取り付けて垂直に吊した状態で1分間放置したときの布帛の長さを示す]。
Elongation rate (%) = [(L2-L1) / L1] × 100
[In the formula, L1 is a 15 cm long and 2.5 cm wide fabric with a 5 g weight attached to the center of one end in the length direction (the center in the width direction), and the weighted end facing down. Shows the length of the fabric when left for 1 minute with the fabric suspended vertically,
L2 indicates the length of the fabric when the length L1 is measured, the weight of 5 g is removed from the end portion of the fabric, and instead the 300 g weight is attached to the same portion and is left vertically for 3 minutes. ]
Recovery rate (%) = [(L3-L1) / L1] × 100
[Wherein L1 is the same as defined above;
L3, after measuring the length L2, remove the 300 g weight from the end of the fabric, leave the fabric on a flat surface for 5 hours, and then attach the 5 g weight to the same location and hang it vertically. Indicates the length of the fabric when left for a minute].

本発明では、紡績糸、水不溶性フィラメント糸及び水溶性糸を、前記紡績糸の撚り方向と同一方向に撚り合わせた複合撚糸を用いるため、ポリウレタン糸などの弾性糸を使用しなくても、キックバック性の高い伸縮力を有する布帛を得るのに適している。また、得られる布帛は、繰り返し使用しても高いキックバック性を保持できる。さらに、高い糸強力を有し、高速の織機や編機で製織編しても糸切れなどのトラブルが発生することなく、目寄れなどが抑制された形態安定性に優れた織編物を簡便に製造できる。   In the present invention, a composite twisted yarn in which a spun yarn, a water-insoluble filament yarn and a water-soluble yarn are twisted in the same direction as that of the spun yarn is used. Therefore, even if an elastic yarn such as a polyurethane yarn is not used, It is suitable for obtaining a fabric having a stretchability with high backability. Moreover, the obtained fabric can maintain high kickback property even when it is repeatedly used. In addition, weaving and knitting fabrics that have high yarn strength, have excellent shape stability, and are free from troubles such as yarn breakage even when weaving and knitting with a high-speed loom or knitting machine, and have excellent shape stability, with suppressed stitching and the like. Can be manufactured.

[複合撚糸]
本発明の複合撚糸は、紡績糸、水不溶性フィラメント糸及び水溶性糸を撚り合わせた複合撚糸であって、複合撚糸の撚り方向が紡績糸の撚り方向と同一方向である。
[Composite twisted yarn]
The composite twisted yarn of the present invention is a composite twisted yarn obtained by twisting a spun yarn, a water-insoluble filament yarn and a water-soluble yarn, and the twist direction of the composite twist yarn is the same as the twist direction of the spun yarn.

(紡績糸)
紡績糸は、水(熱水)に溶解しない繊維から形成された紡績糸であれば、特に限定されず、合成繊維、半合成繊維、再生繊維、天然繊維のいずれであってもよい。合成繊維としては、例えば、ポリエステル系繊維(ポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維、ポリブチレンテレフタレート繊維、ポリエチレンナフタレート繊維などのポリC2−4アルキレンアリレート繊維など)、ポリアミド系繊維(ポリアミド6、ポリアミド66、ポリアミド11、ポリアミド12、ポリアミド610、ポリアミド612などの脂肪族ポリアミド系繊維、脂環族ポリアミド系繊維、ポリフェニレンイソフタルアミド、ポリヘキサメチレンテレフタルアミド、ポリp−フェニレンテレフタルアミドなどの芳香族ポリアミド系繊維など)、ポリオレフィン系繊維(ポリエチレン、ポリプロピレンなどのポリC2−4オレフィン繊維など)、アクリル系繊維(アクリロニトリル−塩化ビニル共重合体などのアクリロニトリル単位を有するアクリロニトリル系繊維など)、水(熱水)不溶性のポリビニルアルコール系繊維(エチレン−ビニルアルコール系共重合体繊維など)、ポリ塩化ビニル系繊維(ポリ塩化ビニル、塩化ビニル−酢酸ビニル共重合体、塩化ビニル−アクリロニトリル共重合体の繊維など)、ポリ塩化ビニリデン系繊維(塩化ビニリデン−塩化ビニル共重合体、塩化ビニリデン−酢酸ビニル共重合体などの繊維)などが挙げられる。
(Spun yarn)
The spun yarn is not particularly limited as long as it is a spun yarn formed from fibers that do not dissolve in water (hot water), and may be any of synthetic fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, regenerated fibers, and natural fibers. Synthetic fibers include, for example, polyester fibers (polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers, polybutylene terephthalate fibers, poly C 2-4 alkylene arylate fibers such as polyethylene naphthalate fibers), polyamide fibers (polyamide 6, Polyamide 66, Polyamide 11, Polyamide 12, Polyamide 610, Polyamide 612 and other aliphatic polyamide fibers, Alicyclic polyamide fibers, Polyphenylene isophthalamide, Polyhexamethylene terephthalamide, Poly p-phenylene terephthalamide and other aromatic polyamides system fibers, etc.), polyolefin fibers (polyethylene, poly C 2-4 olefin fibers such as polypropylene), acrylic fibers (acrylonitrile - vinyl chloride Acrylonitrile fiber having acrylonitrile unit such as polymer), water (hot water) insoluble polyvinyl alcohol fiber (ethylene-vinyl alcohol copolymer fiber, etc.), polyvinyl chloride fiber (polyvinyl chloride, vinyl chloride) -Vinyl acetate copolymer, vinyl chloride-acrylonitrile copolymer fiber, etc.), polyvinylidene chloride fiber (fibers such as vinylidene chloride-vinyl chloride copolymer, vinylidene chloride-vinyl acetate copolymer), etc. .

半合成繊維としては、例えば、トリアセテート繊維などのアセテート繊維などが挙げられる。再生繊維としては、例えば、レーヨン、ポリノジック、キュプラ、リヨセル(例えば、登録商標名:「テンセル」など)などが挙げられる。天然繊維としては、例えば、木綿、羊毛(ウール)、絹、麻などが挙げられる。さらに、ガラス繊維、炭素繊維、金属繊維などの無機繊維を使用してもよい。   Examples of semisynthetic fibers include acetate fibers such as triacetate fibers. Examples of the regenerated fiber include rayon, polynosic, cupra, and lyocell (for example, registered trademark name “Tencel”). Examples of natural fibers include cotton, wool (wool), silk, hemp and the like. Further, inorganic fibers such as glass fibers, carbon fibers, and metal fibers may be used.

これらの繊維は、単独で又は二種以上組み合わせて使用できる。特に、紡績糸は、これらの繊維から選択された単独紡績糸に限定されず、2種以上の繊維で構成された混紡紡績糸(例えば、ポリエステル繊維と木綿との混紡紡績糸など)であってもよい。これらの繊維は、複合撚糸及びそれを用いて製造する織編物の用途などに応じて適宜選択すればよい。汎用される繊維としては、例えば、ポリアミド系繊維、ポリエステル系繊維、アクリル系繊維などの合成繊維、アセテート繊維などの半合成繊維、レーヨン、キュプラなどの再生繊維、木綿、ウール、絹などの天然繊維などが挙げられる。特に、木綿やウールなどの天然繊維は、糸強度や汎用性に優れ、風合いにも優れる点から好ましい。   These fibers can be used alone or in combination of two or more. In particular, the spun yarn is not limited to a single spun yarn selected from these fibers, and is a spun yarn composed of two or more kinds of fibers (for example, a spun yarn of polyester fiber and cotton). Also good. These fibers may be appropriately selected according to the use of the composite twisted yarn and the woven or knitted fabric produced using the same. Commonly used fibers include, for example, synthetic fibers such as polyamide fibers, polyester fibers and acrylic fibers, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate fibers, regenerated fibers such as rayon and cupra, and natural fibers such as cotton, wool and silk. Etc. In particular, natural fibers such as cotton and wool are preferable from the viewpoints of excellent yarn strength and versatility, and excellent texture.

紡績糸は、単糸、複数の単糸を引き揃えた糸、双糸又は3本以上の合撚糸のいずれであってもよい。本発明において、「下撚」とは、紡績糸を製造するに当たって最後にかけられた撚りを意味する。すなわち、「紡績糸の撚数」とは、紡績糸が最後に受けた撚りの撚数を意味する。例えば、紡績糸が単糸又は単糸の引き揃えである場合は単糸を製造するために紡績でかけられた撚数を意味し、双糸の場合は双糸を製造するために2本の糸を撚り合わせた撚数を意味し、3本以上の合撚糸の場合は合撚糸を製造するために3本以上の糸を撚り合わせた撚数を意味する。   The spun yarn may be any one of a single yarn, a yarn obtained by arranging a plurality of single yarns, a twin yarn, or three or more twisted yarns. In the present invention, “primary twist” means the last twist applied in producing a spun yarn. That is, “the number of twists of spun yarn” means the number of twists of the last twist received by the spun yarn. For example, if the spun yarn is a single yarn or a single yarn assortment, it means the number of twists spun to produce a single yarn, and in the case of a double yarn, two yarns to produce a double yarn In the case of three or more twisted yarns, it means the number of twists in which three or more yarns are twisted together to produce a twisted yarn.

紡績糸の撚数は特に制限されないが、撚数をT(単位:回/2.54cm)、綿番手をS(単位:番手)とすると、K=T/√Sで表される撚係数Kは、例えば、1.5〜5、好ましくは2〜4、さらに好ましくは2.5〜3.5程度の紡績糸が、紡績糸の品質安定性、複合撚糸の製造における生産性、紡績糸の入手容易性などの点から好ましい。具体的な撚数は、例えば、200〜2000回/m、好ましくは250〜1500回/m、さらに好ましくは300〜1200回/m(特に400〜1000回/m)程度であってもよい。   The number of twists of the spun yarn is not particularly limited. When the number of twists is T (unit: times / 2.54 cm) and the cotton count is S (unit: count), the twist coefficient K is represented by K = T / √S. For example, spun yarn of 1.5 to 5, preferably 2 to 4, more preferably about 2.5 to 3.5 has a spun yarn quality stability, productivity in the production of composite twisted yarn, It is preferable from the viewpoint of availability. The specific number of twists may be, for example, about 200 to 2000 times / m, preferably about 250 to 1500 times / m, and more preferably about 300 to 1200 times / m (particularly about 400 to 1000 times / m).

紡績糸が双糸又は3本以上の合撚糸である場合は、撚糸の生産性、糸のハンドリング性、風合、紡績糸の入手容易性などの点から、それらの紡績糸の製造における最後の撚方向が、双糸または合撚糸の製造に用いた単糸の撚方向と逆方向になっているのが好ましい。さらに、紡績糸が双糸又は3本以上の合撚糸の撚りについては特に制限はないが、紡績糸の最後の撚数(双糸又は合撚糸の撚数)が、双糸又は合撚糸の製造に用いた単糸の撚数の0.3〜0.9倍(好ましくは0.4〜0.8倍)程度であるのが好ましい。   When the spun yarn is a twin yarn or three or more twisted yarns, the last in the production of these spun yarns in terms of the productivity of the twisted yarn, the handleability of the yarn, the texture, the availability of the spun yarn, etc. It is preferable that the twisting direction is opposite to the twisting direction of the single yarn used for the production of the twin yarn or the twisted yarn. Furthermore, there is no particular limitation on the twist of the spun yarn or the twisted yarn of 3 or more, but the final twisted number of the spun yarn (twisted yarn or the twisted number of the twisted yarn) is the production of the twisted yarn or the twisted yarn. It is preferably about 0.3 to 0.9 times (preferably 0.4 to 0.8 times) the number of twists of the single yarn used.

また、紡績糸の太さ(平均繊度)は、特に制限されず、10〜1200dtexの範囲から選択できるが、例えば、複合撚糸製造の円滑性や入手容易性の他、布帛に高度な伸縮力と風合いを付与する点から、例えば、40〜1000dtex、好ましくは50〜500dtex、さらに好ましくは100〜400dtex(特に120〜300dtex)程度であってもよい。綿紡績糸の場合、例えば、綿番手5〜140番、好ましくは7〜100番、さらに好ましくは10〜50番(特に15〜40番)程度であってもよく、ウール紡績糸の場合、例えば、ウール番手10〜200番、好ましくは15〜150番、さらに好ましくは20〜100番(特に30〜70番)程度であってもよい。   The thickness (average fineness) of the spun yarn is not particularly limited and can be selected from a range of 10 to 1200 dtex. For example, in addition to the smoothness and availability of composite twisted yarn production, From the point which provides a texture, 40-1000 dtex, for example, Preferably it is 50-500 dtex, More preferably, it may be about 100-400 dtex (especially 120-300 dtex). In the case of cotton spun yarn, for example, the cotton count may be about 5 to 140, preferably 7 to 100, more preferably about 10 to 50 (particularly 15 to 40), and in the case of wool spun yarn, for example, The wool count may be about 10 to 200, preferably about 15 to 150, and more preferably about 20 to 100 (particularly 30 to 70).

複合撚糸全体における紡績糸の割合は、例えば、10〜80質量%、好ましくは20〜75質量%、さらに好ましくは30〜70質量%(特に50〜70質量%)程度である。   The ratio of the spun yarn in the whole composite twisted yarn is, for example, about 10 to 80% by mass, preferably about 20 to 75% by mass, and more preferably about 30 to 70% by mass (particularly about 50 to 70% by mass).

(水不溶性フィラメント糸)
水不溶性フィラメント糸(長繊維)としては、水不溶性でゴム弾性を有さない長繊維であれば特に限定されず、例えば、前記紡績糸で例示の合成繊維、半合成繊維、天然繊維の長繊維を、単独で又は二種以上組み合わせて使用できる。これらのうち、熱処理により撚糸工程で付与された撚りの形態を保持でき、耐久性のあるキックバック性を発現できる点から、ポリプロピレンフィラメント糸、アクリロニトリル系フィラメント糸、ポリエステルフィラメント糸、ポリプロピレンフィラメント糸などの合成繊維が好ましく、ポリエステルフィラメント糸(例えば、ポリエチレンテレフタレートなどのポリC2−4アルキレンアリレートフィラメント糸など)、ポリアミドフィラメント糸(例えば、ポリアミド6などの脂肪族ポリアミドフィラメント糸など)が特に好ましい。
(Water-insoluble filament yarn)
The water-insoluble filament yarn (long fiber) is not particularly limited as long as it is water-insoluble and does not have rubber elasticity. For example, synthetic fiber, semi-synthetic fiber, and natural fiber long fiber exemplified in the spun yarn Can be used alone or in combination of two or more. Among these, it is possible to maintain the form of twist imparted in the twisting process by heat treatment, and to exhibit durable kickback properties, such as polypropylene filament yarn, acrylonitrile filament yarn, polyester filament yarn, polypropylene filament yarn, etc. Synthetic fibers are preferable, and polyester filament yarn (for example, poly C2-4 alkylene arylate filament yarn such as polyethylene terephthalate) and polyamide filament yarn (for example, aliphatic polyamide filament yarn such as polyamide 6) are particularly preferable.

水不溶性フィラメント糸は、モノフィラメント糸であってもよく、マルチフィラメント糸であってもよい。マルチフィラメントの場合、複数種のフィラメント糸を組み合わせた混合フィラメント糸であってもよいが、通常、同一のフィラメント糸で構成されたマルチフィラメント糸である。マルチフィラメント糸の本数は、例えば、2〜300本、好ましくは5〜200本、さらに好ましくは6〜150本(特に10〜100本)程度である。   The water-insoluble filament yarn may be a monofilament yarn or a multifilament yarn. In the case of a multifilament, it may be a mixed filament yarn obtained by combining a plurality of types of filament yarns, but is usually a multifilament yarn composed of the same filament yarn. The number of multifilament yarns is, for example, about 2 to 300, preferably 5 to 200, and more preferably 6 to 150 (particularly 10 to 100).

水不溶性フィラメント糸の太さ(平均繊度)は、特に制限されないが、例えば、10〜1000dtexの範囲から選択でき、例えば、15〜300dtex、好ましくは20〜200dtex、さらに好ましくは25〜150dtex(特に30〜100dtex)程度であり、紡績糸の風合いを損なわない点から、通常、30〜60dtexであってもよい。マルチフィラメント糸の場合、単糸繊度(平均単糸繊度)は、しなやかさ及び柔軟性の点から、11dtex以下であってもよく、例えば、0.1〜8dtex、好ましくは0.2〜7dtexさらに好ましくは0.3〜5dtex(特に0.5〜3dtex)程度である。単糸繊度の太さは用途に応じて選択でき、例えば、柔軟性や風合いが要求される場合には、単糸繊度を細くするのが有効であり、コシや張りなどが要求される場合には、単糸繊度を太くするのが有効である。   The thickness (average fineness) of the water-insoluble filament yarn is not particularly limited, but can be selected from the range of, for example, 10 to 1000 dtex, for example, 15 to 300 dtex, preferably 20 to 200 dtex, more preferably 25 to 150 dtex (particularly 30). From the point of not damaging the texture of the spun yarn, it may usually be 30 to 60 dtex. In the case of multifilament yarn, the single yarn fineness (average single yarn fineness) may be 11 dtex or less from the viewpoint of flexibility and flexibility, for example, 0.1 to 8 dtex, preferably 0.2 to 7 dtex. Preferably it is about 0.3-5 dtex (especially 0.5-3 dtex). The thickness of the single yarn fineness can be selected according to the application.For example, when flexibility and texture are required, it is effective to reduce the single yarn fineness, and when stiffness or tension is required. It is effective to increase the single yarn fineness.

水不溶性フィラメント糸は、捲縮が有していなくてもよいが、加熱(特に、熱水による水溶性糸の溶解除去の温度)により捲縮が発現する潜在捲縮性繊維であるのが好ましい。このようなフィラメント糸であれば、水溶性糸が溶解する際に、水溶性糸が溶解した後の隙間を利用して捲縮が発現するため、水溶性糸を除去した布帛は、伸縮性に富んだ生地になり、捲縮のふくらみにより、ふっくら感に富んだ生地となる。   The water-insoluble filament yarn may not have crimps, but is preferably a latent crimpable fiber that develops crimps by heating (particularly, the temperature at which the water-soluble yarn is dissolved and removed by hot water). . With such a filament yarn, when the water-soluble yarn is dissolved, crimps are expressed using the gaps after the water-soluble yarn is dissolved. Therefore, the fabric from which the water-soluble yarn has been removed is stretchable. It becomes a rich dough, and the dough is full of fluff due to crimped swelling.

潜在捲縮性繊維としては、仮撚加工を施したマルチフィラメント糸、熱収縮率(又は熱膨張率)の異なる複数の樹脂で相分離構造が形成された複合繊維などが挙げられる。   Examples of the latent crimpable fiber include a multifilament yarn subjected to false twisting, and a composite fiber in which a phase separation structure is formed of a plurality of resins having different thermal shrinkage rates (or thermal expansion rates).

マルチフィラメント糸における仮撚の方法としては、前記捲縮率の範囲となるように、慣用の方法を採用できる。例えば、繊度や材料の種類に応じて適宜選択できるが、30〜200dtex(特に30〜100dtex)/10〜30フィラメントのマルチフィラメント糸の場合、仮撚条件として、仮撚数200〜5000回/m(特に500〜4000回/m)程度、1段ヒーター温度100〜260℃(特に120〜200℃)程度、2段ヒーター温度100〜200℃(特に120〜180℃)程度、糸速100〜500m/分(特に200〜400m/分)程度であってもよい。さらに、糸条の太さを調整するために、得られた仮撚糸を、さらに数本(例えば、2〜10本、特に2〜5本)集束させてもよい。   As a false twisting method in the multifilament yarn, a conventional method can be adopted so as to be in the range of the crimp rate. For example, although it can select suitably according to the fineness and the kind of material, in the case of 30-200 dtex (especially 30-100 dtex) / 10-30 filament multifilament yarn, as false twist conditions, the number of false twists is 200-5000 times / m. (Especially 500-4000 times / m) About 1st stage heater temperature 100-260 ° C (particularly 120-200 ° C) About 2nd stage heater temperature 100-200 ° C (particularly 120-180 ° C), yarn speed 100-500m / Min (especially 200 to 400 m / min). Furthermore, in order to adjust the thickness of the yarn, the obtained false twisted yarn may be further converged (for example, 2 to 10, particularly 2 to 5).

複合繊維としては、複数の樹脂の熱収縮率(又は熱膨張率)の違いに起因して、加熱により捲縮を生じる非対称又は層状(いわゆるバイメタル)構造を有する繊維、特に、偏芯芯鞘型、並列型構造(サイドバイサイド型構造)の断面形状を有する繊維が挙げられる。例えば、ポリアルキレンアリレート系樹脂(例えば、ポリエチレンテレフタレート)と、変性ポリアルキレンアリレート系樹脂(例えば、イソフタル酸変性ポリエチレンテレフタレート)とを組み合わせた複合繊維などが利用できる。   As the composite fiber, a fiber having an asymmetric or layered (so-called bimetal) structure in which crimping is caused by heating due to a difference in thermal contraction rate (or thermal expansion rate) of a plurality of resins, particularly an eccentric core-sheath type. And fibers having a cross-sectional shape of a side-by-side structure (side-by-side structure). For example, a composite fiber combining a polyalkylene arylate resin (for example, polyethylene terephthalate) and a modified polyalkylene arylate resin (for example, isophthalic acid-modified polyethylene terephthalate) can be used.

本発明では、このような潜在捲縮性繊維は、熱処理する前も幾分捲縮を有し、伸縮性を有しているが、熱処理することで、捲縮がさらに発現する長繊維であってもよく、このような捲縮性を表す指標として、以下の捲縮伸張率を用いる。   In the present invention, such a latent crimpable fiber is somewhat long crimped and stretchable before heat treatment, but is a long fiber that further develops crimp by heat treatment. The following crimp extension rate may be used as an index representing such crimpability.

捲縮伸長率(%)=[(L2−L1)/L2]×100
[式中、L1は、検尺機で0.044cN/dtexの張力下で作製した11110dtexの輪奈状カセの輪奈に金棒を通して金棒を水平にした状態でカセの下端部に10gの重りを取り付けて5分間放置後、金棒を水平にした状態で90℃の水槽内にカセを浸漬して30分間加熱処理し、次いで、水槽からカセを引き上げて10gの重りを取り外し、乾燥後、再度10gの重りをカセの下端部に取り付けて5分間放置したときのカセの全長を示し、
L2は、カセの全長L1を測定後、カセから10gの重りを取り外し、代わりに1000gの重りをカセの下端部に取り付けて5分間放置したときのカセの全長を示す]。
Crimp elongation (%) = [(L2-L1) / L2] × 100
[In the formula, L1 has a weight of 10 g at the lower end of the casserole in a state where the metal rod is leveled through a 11110 dtex wrinkle wrench manufactured by a measuring instrument under a tension of 0.044 cN / dtex. After attaching and leaving for 5 minutes, immerse the casserole in a 90 ° C. water bath with the metal rod leveled, heat-treat for 30 minutes, then lift the casserole from the water bath to remove the 10 g weight, dry, and then again 10 g Shows the total length of the casserole when the weight is attached to the lower end of the casserole and left for 5 minutes,
L2 indicates the total length of the cassette when the total length L1 of the cassette is measured, the weight of 10 g is removed from the cassette, and instead the 1000-gram weight is attached to the lower end of the cassette and left for 5 minutes.

本発明では、水不溶性フィラメント糸は、捲縮伸長率は、例えば、5%以上であってもよく、好ましくは10%以上(例えば、10〜50%)、さらに好ましくは15%以上(例えば、15〜30%)程度であってもよい。水不溶性フィラメント糸がこのような捲縮伸長率(潜在捲縮性)を有することにより、水溶性糸の溶解除去における加熱処理によって発現した捲縮によって、織編物(布帛)に優れた風合いや柔軟性を付与できる。   In the present invention, the water-insoluble filament yarn may have a crimp elongation of, for example, 5% or more, preferably 10% or more (for example, 10 to 50%), more preferably 15% or more (for example, 15 to 30%). Since the water-insoluble filament yarn has such a crimp elongation rate (latent crimpability), the texture and flexibility excellent in the woven or knitted fabric (fabric) can be obtained by crimping caused by heat treatment in dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn. Sex can be imparted.

水不溶性フィラメント糸は、無撚であってもよく、撚りがかかっていてもよい。撚糸の場合には、撚数は、例えば、50〜5000回/m、好ましくは80〜3000回/m、さらに好ましくは80〜1000回/m程度であってもよい。水不溶性フィラメント糸に撚りがかかっている場合、紡績糸の撚りと同一の方向であれば、複合撚糸において紡績糸との交絡が強まり、水溶性糸を溶解後に糸の伸縮性のキックバック性が向上する。一方、水不溶性フィラメント糸の撚り方向が、紡績糸の撚りと逆方向であれば、複合撚糸において紡績糸との交絡が弱まり、水溶性糸の溶解後に糸の伸縮性が大きくなる傾向があり、用途に応じて選択できる。   The water-insoluble filament yarn may be untwisted or twisted. In the case of a twisted yarn, the number of twists may be, for example, about 50 to 5000 times / m, preferably about 80 to 3000 times / m, and more preferably about 80 to 1000 times / m. When the water-insoluble filament yarn is twisted, if the direction is the same as the twist of the spun yarn, entanglement with the spun yarn is strengthened in the composite twisted yarn, and the stretchable kickback property of the yarn after dissolving the water-soluble yarn improves. On the other hand, if the twisting direction of the water-insoluble filament yarn is opposite to the twisting of the spun yarn, the entanglement with the spun yarn in the composite twisted yarn is weakened, and the elasticity of the yarn tends to increase after dissolution of the water-soluble yarn, It can be selected according to the application.

複合撚糸全体における水不溶性フィラメント糸の割合は、例えば、5〜50質量%、好ましくは8〜45質量%、さらに好ましくは10〜45質量%(特に10〜40質量%)程度である。   The ratio of the water-insoluble filament yarn in the entire composite twisted yarn is, for example, about 5 to 50% by mass, preferably about 8 to 45% by mass, and more preferably about 10 to 45% by mass (particularly 10 to 40% by mass).

紡績糸と水不溶性フィラメント糸との割合(質量比)は、例えば、前者/後者=99/1〜10/90程度の範囲から選択でき、例えば、99/1〜50/50、好ましくは97/3〜55/45、さらに好ましくは95/5〜60/40(特に90/10〜70/30)程度である。紡績糸の割合が多すぎると、糸強度が低下し、少なすぎると、布帛の風合いが低下する傾向がある。   The ratio (mass ratio) between the spun yarn and the water-insoluble filament yarn can be selected from the range of the former / the latter = 99/1 to 10/90, for example, 99/1 to 50/50, preferably 97 / It is about 3-55 / 45, More preferably, it is about 95 / 5-60 / 40 (especially 90 / 10-70 / 30). When the proportion of spun yarn is too large, the yarn strength is lowered, and when too small, the texture of the fabric tends to be lowered.

(水溶性糸)
水溶性糸としては、親水性溶媒に対する溶解性を有していれば特に限定されないが、特に、大気圧下で、水の沸騰温度(約100℃)までの温度で水(熱水)に対して溶解する糸が好ましい。このような水溶性糸を含む複合撚糸から得られた織編物は、水溶性糸を水などの親水性溶媒で容易に溶解除去でき、取扱性などにも優れている。特に、水溶性糸としては、水溶性糸自体を単独で温度80℃以上(特に90℃以上)の熱水に浸漬して30分間放置したときに、浸漬前の水溶性糸の質量に対して、85質量%以上(特に95質量%以上)が前記熱水に溶解する水溶性糸(水不溶性の残渣が15質量%未満、特に5質量%未満である水溶性糸)が好ましい。水溶性糸の水溶解性が低いと、複合撚糸を用いて製造した織編物を水で処理しても、複合撚糸中の水溶性糸を充分に溶解除去できず、織編物に充分な伸縮性などを付与するのが困難となる。
(Water-soluble yarn)
The water-soluble yarn is not particularly limited as long as it has solubility in a hydrophilic solvent, but in particular, at atmospheric pressure and a temperature up to the boiling temperature of water (about 100 ° C.) with respect to water (hot water). A yarn that dissolves in a preferred manner is preferred. The woven or knitted fabric obtained from the composite twisted yarn containing such a water-soluble yarn can easily dissolve and remove the water-soluble yarn with a hydrophilic solvent such as water, and is excellent in handleability. In particular, as the water-soluble yarn, when the water-soluble yarn itself is immersed in hot water at a temperature of 80 ° C. or higher (particularly 90 ° C. or higher) and left for 30 minutes, the water-soluble yarn is less than the mass of the water-soluble yarn before immersion. 85% by weight or more (especially 95% by weight or more) is preferably a water-soluble yarn (water-soluble yarn having a water-insoluble residue of less than 15% by weight, particularly less than 5% by weight) in which the hot water is dissolved. If the water-soluble yarn has low water solubility, even if the woven or knitted fabric produced using the composite twisted yarn is treated with water, the water-soluble yarn in the composite twisted yarn cannot be sufficiently dissolved and removed, and the woven or knitted fabric has sufficient elasticity. It becomes difficult to give etc.

水溶性糸を構成する繊維としては、前記水溶解性を充足する限り特に限定されないが、例えば、水可溶性樹脂で構成された繊維が使用できる。水可溶性樹脂としては、例えば、セルロース系樹脂(ヒドロキシメチルセルロースなどのヒドロキシC1−3アルキルセルロースなど)、ポリビニル系樹脂(ポリビニルピロリドン、ポリビニルエーテル、ポリビニルアルコール、ポリビニルアセタールなど)、アクリル系共重合体又はそのアルカリ金属塩((メタ)アクリル酸やヒドロキシル基含有(メタ)アクリル酸エステルなどのアクリル系単量体で構成された単位を含む共重合体など)、水溶性ポリアミド系樹脂(ポリオキシエチレン単位を有するポリアミドや、スルホン酸基やヒドロキシル基などを導入したポリアミドなど)、水溶性ポリエステル系樹脂(ポリオキシエチレン単位を有するポリエステルや、スルホン酸基やアミノ基などを導入したポリエステルなど)などが挙げられる。これらの水可溶性樹脂は、単独で又は二種以上組み合わせて使用できる。 The fiber constituting the water-soluble yarn is not particularly limited as long as the water solubility is satisfied. For example, a fiber constituted of a water-soluble resin can be used. Examples of water-soluble resins include cellulose resins (hydroxy C 1-3 alkyl cellulose such as hydroxymethyl cellulose), polyvinyl resins (polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl ether, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl acetal, etc.), acrylic copolymers, or Alkali metal salts (such as copolymers containing units composed of acrylic monomers such as (meth) acrylic acid and hydroxyl group-containing (meth) acrylic acid esters), water-soluble polyamide resins (polyoxyethylene units) And polyamides having sulfonic acid groups, hydroxyl groups, etc.), water-soluble polyester resins (polyesters having polyoxyethylene units, polyesters having sulfonic acid groups, amino groups, etc.), etc. Et It is. These water-soluble resins can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

これらのうち、ポリビニル系樹脂、特に、繊維強力、水(熱水)への高い溶解性、生分解性、入手容易性などの点から、水可溶性ポリビニルアルコール系樹脂が好ましい。一般に、水可溶性ポリビニルアルコール系樹脂は、熱分解温度と溶融開始温度とが近接しているため、溶融紡糸が不可能である。従って、本発明では、溶融紡糸可能な水可溶性ポリビニルアルコール、例えば、重合度を200〜800(特に250〜500)程度に低下させ、かつオレフィン類(特にエチレンなどのα−C2−10オレフィンなど)を3〜20モル%(特に3〜15モル%)程度共重合させたポリビニルアルコール系樹脂(特に、エチレン−ビニルアルコール共重合体)が好ましく使用される。水可溶性ポリビニルアルコール系樹脂で構成された繊維は、例えば、水溶性ビニロンなどとして市販されている。 Among these, water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol resins are preferable from the viewpoints of polyvinyl resins, particularly fiber strength, high solubility in water (hot water), biodegradability, and availability. In general, a water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol resin cannot be melt-spun since the thermal decomposition temperature and the melting start temperature are close to each other. Therefore, in the present invention, melt-spun water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol, for example, the degree of polymerization is reduced to about 200 to 800 (particularly 250 to 500), and olefins (particularly α-C 2-10 olefins such as ethylene, etc.) ) Is preferably used in an amount of about 3 to 20 mol% (particularly 3 to 15 mol%). The fiber comprised with water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol-type resin is marketed as water-soluble vinylon etc., for example.

水溶性糸は、水溶性である限りは、紡績糸であってもよく、フィラメント糸(長繊維)であってもよい。親水性溶媒で溶解除去し易い点からは、フィラメント糸が好ましい。フィラメント糸を用いると、水溶性糸の混率の低い複合撚糸を用いて得られた織編物であっても、水などの親水性溶媒で水溶性糸を速やかに除去できる。   The water-soluble yarn may be a spun yarn or a filament yarn (long fiber) as long as it is water-soluble. A filament yarn is preferable from the viewpoint of easy dissolution and removal with a hydrophilic solvent. When the filament yarn is used, even in a woven or knitted fabric obtained using a composite twisted yarn having a low water-soluble yarn mixing ratio, the water-soluble yarn can be quickly removed with a hydrophilic solvent such as water.

水溶性糸の太さは、例えば、15〜200dtex、好ましくは20〜150dtex、さらに好ましくは25〜100dtex(特に30〜80dtex)程度である。水溶性糸の太さがこの範囲にあると、生産性が高く、紡績糸などの他の糸との撚り合わせも容易にできる。また、複合撚糸の強力を向上でき、紡績毛羽も低減できる。また、親水性溶媒による溶解除去を容易にできるとともに、溶解除去した後の生地にキックバック性の高い伸縮性を付与できる。   The thickness of the water-soluble yarn is, for example, about 15 to 200 dtex, preferably 20 to 150 dtex, and more preferably about 25 to 100 dtex (particularly 30 to 80 dtex). When the thickness of the water-soluble yarn is within this range, the productivity is high, and twisting with other yarn such as spun yarn can be easily performed. In addition, the strength of the composite twisted yarn can be improved and the spinning fluff can be reduced. Further, dissolution and removal with a hydrophilic solvent can be facilitated, and stretchability with high kickback property can be imparted to the fabric after dissolution and removal.

本発明では、複合撚糸における除去用糸(織編物にした後に除去する糸)として、アルカリや酸に溶解又は分解する糸ではなく、水などの親水性溶媒に溶解する糸(水溶性糸)を使用した理由としては、織編物を形成している複合撚糸の一部をアルカリや酸で除去した場合は、複合撚糸を構成している紡績糸や水不溶性フィラメント糸の変質や分解を生ずる恐れがあり、水などの親水性溶媒(特に水)で処理した場合には、紡績糸や水不溶性フィラメント糸の変質や分解を生ずる恐れがないことが挙げられる。このような水溶性糸を使用することにより、複合撚糸を構成する紡績糸及び水不溶性フィラメント糸として広範囲の種々の糸を使用できる。すなわち、本発明では、複合撚糸を構成する紡績糸及び水不溶性フィラメント糸として、水などの親水性溶媒に溶解しない糸である限りは、アルカリや酸によって溶解又は分解し易い糸であっても使用することができ、複合撚糸を構成する紡績糸及び水不溶性フィラメント糸の種類や選択の幅が広がり、ひいては複合撚糸から形成される織編物の種類、特性、風合を色々なものにすることができる。特に、水溶性糸として、水可溶性ポリビニルアルコール系樹脂で構成された繊維を用いると、その高い生分解性により、溶解後の廃液を微生物などにより分解除去できる。   In the present invention, as a yarn for removal in a composite twisted yarn (a yarn to be removed after forming a woven or knitted fabric), a yarn that dissolves in a hydrophilic solvent such as water (water-soluble yarn) is used instead of a yarn that dissolves or decomposes in alkali or acid. The reason for the use is that, when a part of the composite twisted yarn forming the woven or knitted fabric is removed with alkali or acid, the spun yarn or water-insoluble filament yarn constituting the composite twisted yarn may be altered or decomposed. In other words, when treated with a hydrophilic solvent such as water (especially water), there is no possibility that the spun yarn or the water-insoluble filament yarn may be altered or decomposed. By using such a water-soluble yarn, a wide variety of yarns can be used as the spun yarn and the water-insoluble filament yarn constituting the composite twisted yarn. That is, in the present invention, as a spun yarn and a water-insoluble filament yarn constituting the composite twisted yarn, a yarn that is easily dissolved or decomposed by an alkali or an acid is used as long as it is a yarn that does not dissolve in a hydrophilic solvent such as water. The range and selection of spun yarns and water-insoluble filament yarns constituting the composite twisted yarn can be widened, and as a result, the type, characteristics, and texture of the woven or knitted fabric formed from the composite twisted yarn can be varied. it can. In particular, when a fiber composed of a water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol resin is used as the water-soluble yarn, the waste liquid after dissolution can be decomposed and removed by microorganisms or the like due to its high biodegradability.

複合撚糸全体における水溶性糸の割合は、例えば、5〜75質量%、好ましくは8〜50質量%、さらに好ましくは10〜40質量%(特に10〜30質量%)程度である。   The ratio of the water-soluble yarn in the entire composite twisted yarn is, for example, about 5 to 75% by mass, preferably about 8 to 50% by mass, and more preferably about 10 to 40% by mass (particularly 10 to 30% by mass).

紡績糸及び水不溶性フィラメント糸の総量と、水溶性糸との割合(質量比)は、例えば、97/3〜50/50(例えば、95/5〜50/50)、好ましくは95/5〜60/40、さらに好ましくは93/7〜70/30(特90/10〜に80/20)程度である。   The ratio (mass ratio) between the total amount of spun yarn and water-insoluble filament yarn and the water-soluble yarn is, for example, 97 / 3-50 / 50 (for example, 95 / 5-50 / 50), preferably 95/5 It is about 60/40, more preferably about 93/7 to 70/30 (special 90/10 to 80/20).

各糸の割合が前記範囲にあると、織編物中の水溶性糸を溶解除去後に十分に紡績糸が自由に動ける隙間を形成できるとともに、溶解後の生地の安定性も確保できる。さらに、撚糸状態において、紡績糸が水不溶性フィラメント糸、水溶性糸の外側を占めるとともに、水溶性糸が溶解した後も、水不溶性フィラメント糸の外側を紡績糸が占めることができ、布帛の風合いを向上できる。   When the ratio of each yarn is within the above range, a gap in which the spun yarn can move sufficiently after dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn in the woven or knitted fabric can be formed, and the stability of the fabric after dissolution can be ensured. Furthermore, in the twisted yarn state, the spun yarn occupies the outside of the water-insoluble filament yarn and the water-soluble yarn, and the spun yarn can occupy the outside of the water-insoluble filament yarn after the water-soluble yarn is dissolved. Can be improved.

さらに、水溶性糸が除去された複合撚糸を含む織編物(布帛)のキックバック性を向上するためには、上撚が適度に撓む必要がある。本発明では、そのような上撚の撓みを発生させる空隙を形成し、かつ目寄れなどの形態安定性も確保するために、複合撚糸において水溶性糸が所定の空間を占めるのが好ましい。このような観点から、紡績糸及び水不溶性フィラメント糸の合計繊度と、水溶性糸の繊度との比率は、例えば、前者/後者=97/3〜50/50(例えば、95/5〜50/50)、好ましくは95/5〜60/40、さらに好ましくは93/7〜70/30(特90/10〜に80/20)程度である。   Furthermore, in order to improve the kickback property of the woven or knitted fabric (fabric) including the composite twisted yarn from which the water-soluble yarn has been removed, the upper twist needs to be appropriately bent. In the present invention, it is preferable that the water-soluble yarn occupies a predetermined space in the composite twisted yarn in order to form a void that causes such bending of the upper twist, and to secure shape stability such as meshing. From such a viewpoint, the ratio between the total fineness of the spun yarn and the water-insoluble filament yarn and the fineness of the water-soluble yarn is, for example, the former / the latter = 97 / 3-50 / 50 (for example, 95 / 5-50 / 50), preferably 95/5 to 60/40, more preferably 93/7 to 70/30 (specifically 90/10 to 80/20).

(複合撚糸の製法及び撚り特性)
本発明の複合撚糸において、紡績糸、水不溶性フィラメント糸、水溶性糸の本数(糸本数)は、撚糸機のクリル本数の制限、品質管理の点から、紡績糸が1〜3本(好ましくは1〜2本)、水不溶性フィラメント糸が1〜2本(好ましくは1本)、水溶性糸が1〜2本(好ましくは1本)であり、通常、紡績糸1本、水不溶性フィラメント糸1本及び水溶性糸1本を撚り合わせて(上撚をかけて)複合撚糸が形成される。紡績糸、水不溶性フィラメント糸及び水溶性糸を撚り合わせる際の撚糸機の種類も、特に制限されず、例えば、ダブルツイスター、リングツイスター、アップツイスターなどの汎用の撚糸機を使用できる。
(Production method and twist characteristics of composite twisted yarn)
In the composite twisted yarn of the present invention, the number of spun yarns, water-insoluble filament yarns and water-soluble yarns (number of yarns) is 1 to 3 spun yarns (preferably from the viewpoint of limiting the number of krills of the twisting machine and quality control. 1 to 2), 1 to 2 (preferably 1) water-insoluble filament yarns, and 1 to 2 (preferably 1) water-soluble yarns, usually one spun yarn, water-insoluble filament yarn One composite yarn and one water-soluble yarn are twisted together (over twisted) to form a composite twisted yarn. The type of the twisting machine used when twisting the spun yarn, the water-insoluble filament yarn, and the water-soluble yarn is not particularly limited. For example, a general-purpose twisting machine such as a double twister, a ring twister, or an up twister can be used.

本発明の複合撚糸では、複合撚糸の撚り方向(紡績糸と水不溶性フィラメント糸と水溶性糸との撚り合わせにおける撚り方向)(上撚)が、複合撚糸を構成する紡績糸の撚り方向(下撚)と同一方向である。撚糸を製造する場合、上撚の撚方向は、下撚の撚方向の逆方向にするのが一般的であるが、本発明では、複合撚糸にトルクを持たせるために、同一方向とする。本発明では、トルクを有する複合撚糸を含む織編物において、水溶性糸を溶解除去した後に隙間が発生することによりキックバック性を有する伸縮性が発現する。このような伸縮性は、複合化された撚りによるトルクに基づいているため、繰り返し伸縮してもキックバック性が低下せず、耐久性を有している。   In the composite twisted yarn of the present invention, the twist direction of the composite twisted yarn (twist direction in twisting of the spun yarn, the water-insoluble filament yarn and the water-soluble yarn) (upper twist) is the twist direction of the spun yarn constituting the composite twisted yarn (below) The same direction as the twist. When producing a twisted yarn, the twisting direction of the upper twist is generally opposite to the twisting direction of the lower twist. However, in the present invention, the same direction is used in order to give torque to the composite twisted yarn. In the present invention, in a woven or knitted fabric including a composite twisted yarn having torque, stretchability having kickback property is exhibited by generating a gap after dissolving and removing the water-soluble yarn. Since such stretchability is based on the combined twisting torque, the kickback property does not deteriorate even when repeatedly stretched and has durability.

複合撚糸において、複合撚糸の撚数(上撚の数)と紡績糸の撚数(下撚の撚数)との比率は、下撚の撚数に対する上撚の撚り数の比(上撚/下撚)は0.3〜2倍程度の範囲から選択でき、例えば、0.3〜1.8倍、好ましくは0.4〜1.5倍、さらに好ましくは0.5〜1.3倍程度である。本発明では、上撚と下撚との撚り数の比をこの範囲(特に0.5〜2倍程度)にすることにより、紡績糸のトルクと撚糸のトルクとのバランスに優れ、製編織性及び布帛のキックバック性のいずれも向上できる。一方、下撚の撚りが小さすぎると、バネの役目をする紡績糸のトルクが十分に与えられないため、この糸を用いて作製した織編物の水溶性糸を溶解除去しても、キックバック性の高い伸縮性は得るのは困難である。また、下撚の撚りが大きすぎると、糸切れなどのトラブルで撚糸工程の生産性が低下したり、得られた撚糸の強度が低く、織編工程に支障を及ぼす場合がある。さらに、上撚による糸のトルクが強すぎて、撚糸工程、織編工程の生産性が低下する場合もある。   In the composite twisted yarn, the ratio of the number of twists of the composite twisted yarn (number of upper twists) and the number of twisted yarns (twisted number of lower twists) is the ratio of the number of twists of the upper twist to the number of twists of the lower twist (upper twist / Can be selected from the range of about 0.3 to 2 times, for example, 0.3 to 1.8 times, preferably 0.4 to 1.5 times, more preferably 0.5 to 1.3 times. Degree. In the present invention, by adjusting the ratio of the number of twists of the upper twist and the lower twist within this range (particularly about 0.5 to 2 times), the balance between the torque of the spun yarn and the torque of the twist yarn is excellent, and the knitting property And the kickback property of the fabric can be improved. On the other hand, if the twist of the lower twist is too small, sufficient torque of the spun yarn that acts as a spring is not given, so even if the water-soluble yarn of the woven or knitted fabric made using this yarn is dissolved and removed, the kickback It is difficult to obtain high elasticity. On the other hand, if the twist of the lower twist is too large, the productivity of the twisting process may decrease due to troubles such as yarn breakage, and the strength of the obtained twisting thread may be low, which may hinder the weaving and knitting process. Further, the torque of the yarn due to the upper twist may be too strong, and the productivity of the twisting process and the knitting process may be reduced.

複合撚糸の撚数(上撚の撚数)は、紡績糸の撚数との比率が前記範囲にあればよいが、例えば、50〜3000回/m、好ましくは100〜2000回/m、さらに好ましくは200〜1500回/m(特に300〜1000回/m)程度であってもよい。   The number of twists of the composite twisted yarn (the number of twists of the upper twist) is sufficient if the ratio with the number of twisted spun yarns is in the above range, but is, for example, 50 to 3000 times / m, preferably 100 to 2000 times / m, Preferably, it may be about 200 to 1500 times / m (particularly 300 to 1000 times / m).

なお、複合撚糸において、「複合撚糸の撚数」(上撚の撚数)とは、紡績糸、水不溶性フィラメント糸及び水溶性糸を撚り合わせた撚数であり、実際には撚糸工程時の設定撚数に準じた値となる。   In the composite twisted yarn, the “twist number of the composite twisted yarn” (twisted number of the upper twist) is a twist number obtained by twisting the spun yarn, the water-insoluble filament yarn, and the water-soluble yarn. It becomes a value according to the set twist number.

[織編物(布帛)]
本発明の織編物(布帛)は前記複合撚糸を用いて得られるが、複合撚糸はトルクを有しており、トルクが強すぎる場合には、織編工程を円滑に行うために、熱処理工程を設けてトルクを減少させてもよい。熱処理温度は、紡績糸、水不溶性フィラメント糸、水溶性糸の種類、複合撚糸のトルクの強さなどに応じて適宜選択できる。ポリエステル繊維やポリアミド繊維などの合成繊維の場合には、熱処理によりトルクが減少し易く、熱処理工程を設けることにより織編工程の通過性が向上する。熱処理温度は、例えば、合成繊維を構成する合成樹脂の融点又は軟化点よりも5℃以上低い温度、例えば、10〜100℃(特に20〜80℃)程度低い温度あってもよい。
[Woven and knitted fabric (cloth)]
The woven or knitted fabric (fabric) of the present invention is obtained using the above-described composite twisted yarn, but the composite twisted yarn has a torque, and when the torque is too strong, a heat treatment step is performed in order to smoothly perform the knitting and knitting step. It may be provided to reduce the torque. The heat treatment temperature can be appropriately selected depending on the spun yarn, the water-insoluble filament yarn, the type of water-soluble yarn, the torque strength of the composite twisted yarn, and the like. In the case of synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers and polyamide fibers, the torque is likely to be reduced by heat treatment, and the passability of the knitting and knitting process is improved by providing the heat treatment process. The heat treatment temperature may be, for example, 5 ° C. or more lower than the melting point or softening point of the synthetic resin constituting the synthetic fiber, for example, about 10 to 100 ° C. (particularly 20 to 80 ° C.).

本発明の織編物(布帛)は、種類や組織の内容などは特に制限されず、例えば、織物(平織り、斜文織り、繻子織りなど)や、編物(機械編み、かぎ針編み、棒針編み、アフガン編み、レース編みなど)などであってもよい。本発明の複合撚糸は糸強力も高いため、例えば、高速(例えば、織速度又は編速度0.05m/分以上)の織機や編機により織編物を製造しても糸切れなどのトラブル発生しないため、生産性が高い。   The type and organization of the woven or knitted fabric (fabric) of the present invention are not particularly limited. For example, woven fabric (plain weave, oblique weave, satin weave, etc.), knitted fabric (machine knitting, crochet knitting, bar needle knitting, Afghan) Knitting, lace knitting, etc.). Since the composite twisted yarn of the present invention has high yarn strength, troubles such as yarn breakage do not occur even if a woven or knitted fabric is produced by a high speed (for example, weaving speed or knitting speed of 0.05 m / min or more). Therefore, productivity is high.

本発明の織編物は少なくとも前記複合撚糸を用いて製造され、目的とする織編物の種類や用途(要求される伸縮の程度など)に応じて、前記複合撚糸の使用割合を調節することができる。織編物に対する複合撚糸の使用割合は、織編物の全質量に対して、例えば、複合撚糸が10質量%以上であってもよく、例えば、15〜100質量%(例えば、20〜100質量%)、好ましくは25〜100質量%以上(例えば、30〜100質量%)、さらに好ましくは35〜100質量%(特に40〜100質量%)程度である。さらに、織物の緯糸のみに使用する場合など、織編物の一部に複合撚糸を使用してもよく、その場合、複合撚糸の割合は、織編物の全質量に対して、例えば、10〜80質量%、好ましくは20〜70質量%、さらに好ましくは30〜60質量%程度であってもよい。なお、後述するように、水溶性糸は親水性溶媒で抽出除去されるが、織編物中における複合撚糸の前記割合は、水溶性糸を含む値である。複合撚糸の割合が低すぎると、水溶性糸を除去しても、キックバック性の高い伸縮力を有する布帛が得られ難い。   The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is manufactured using at least the composite twisted yarn, and the usage ratio of the composite twisted yarn can be adjusted according to the type and application of the target woven or knitted fabric (required degree of expansion and contraction). . The proportion of the composite twisted yarn to the woven or knitted fabric may be, for example, 10% by mass or more of the composite twisted yarn with respect to the total mass of the woven or knitted fabric, for example, 15 to 100% by mass (for example, 20 to 100% by mass). It is preferably about 25 to 100% by mass (for example, 30 to 100% by mass), more preferably about 35 to 100% by mass (particularly 40 to 100% by mass). Furthermore, a composite twisted yarn may be used for a part of the woven or knitted fabric, such as when used only for woven wefts. In that case, the ratio of the composite twisted yarn is, for example, 10 to 80 with respect to the total mass of the woven or knitted fabric. It may be about mass%, preferably 20 to 70 mass%, more preferably about 30 to 60 mass%. As will be described later, the water-soluble yarn is extracted and removed with a hydrophilic solvent, but the ratio of the composite twisted yarn in the woven or knitted fabric is a value including the water-soluble yarn. If the ratio of the composite twisted yarn is too low, even if the water-soluble yarn is removed, it is difficult to obtain a fabric having a high kickback stretchability.

さらに、織物の場合、経糸及び/又は緯糸の全部又は一部を複合撚糸で構成してもよい。特に、経糸及び緯糸のいずれかを複合撚糸で構成することにより、打ち込み本数の調整により伸縮性及び嵩高性(柔軟性)を容易に制御できる。糸密度(打ち込み本数)は、例えば、経糸及び緯糸ともに150〜250dtex(特に180〜220dtex)程度の糸を用いた場合、経密度は、例えば、20〜40本/cm、好ましくは22〜38本/cm、さらに好ましくは25〜35本/cm程度としてもよい。一方、緯密度は、例えば、15〜35本/cm、好ましくは18〜30本/cm、さらに好ましくは20〜38本/cm程度としてもよい。このような糸密度で織物を構成し、かつ緯糸又は経糸として、複合撚糸を使用すると、特定の方向にキックバック性の高い伸縮性を有する布帛を製造できる。さらに、緯糸として複合撚糸を使用し、かつ経糸としてレギュラー糸を使用すると、織物の生産性に優れている。   Furthermore, in the case of a woven fabric, all or part of warp and / or weft may be composed of composite twisted yarn. In particular, when either warp or weft is composed of a composite twisted yarn, the stretchability and bulkiness (flexibility) can be easily controlled by adjusting the number of driven yarns. For example, when the yarn density (number of driven yarns) is about 150 to 250 dtex (particularly 180 to 220 dtex) for both the warp and the weft, the warp density is, for example, 20 to 40 / cm, preferably 22 to 38. / Cm, more preferably about 25 to 35 lines / cm. On the other hand, the latitude density may be, for example, about 15 to 35 lines / cm, preferably about 18 to 30 lines / cm, and more preferably about 20 to 38 lines / cm. When a woven fabric is constituted with such a yarn density and a composite twisted yarn is used as a weft or warp, a fabric having a high kickback stretchability in a specific direction can be produced. Further, when a composite twisted yarn is used as the weft and a regular yarn is used as the warp, the productivity of the fabric is excellent.

[伸縮性織編物(布帛)及びその製造方法]
本発明では、複合撚糸を用いて製造した織編物から、複合撚糸中の水溶性糸を親水性溶媒で抽出除去することにより、高い伸縮性を有する布帛(伸縮性布帛)が得られる。親水性溶媒としては、水の他、アルコール類(メタノール、エタノール、イソプロパノールなど)、ケトン類(アセトンなど)、エーテル類(テトラヒドロフランなど)、セロソルブ類(メチルセロソルブ、エチルセロソルブなど)、カルビトール類(カルビトール、ジエチレングリコールジメチルエーテルなど)などが挙げられる。これらの親水性溶媒は、単独で又は二種以上組み合わせて使用できる。これらの親水性溶媒のうち、水、エタノールなどのC1−3アルコール類、アセトンなどのケトン類、水と他の親水性溶媒との混合溶媒などが好ましく、通常、水が使用される。
[Elastic woven / knitted fabric (fabric) and manufacturing method thereof]
In the present invention, a highly stretchable fabric (stretchable fabric) can be obtained by extracting and removing the water-soluble yarn in the composite twisted yarn with a hydrophilic solvent from the woven or knitted fabric produced using the composite twisted yarn. Examples of hydrophilic solvents include water, alcohols (methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, etc.), ketones (acetone, etc.), ethers (tetrahydrofuran, etc.), cellosolves (methyl cellosolve, ethyl cellosolve, etc.), carbitols ( Carbitol, diethylene glycol dimethyl ether, etc.). These hydrophilic solvents can be used alone or in combination of two or more. Among these hydrophilic solvents, water, C 1-3 alcohols such as ethanol, ketones such as acetone, mixed solvents of water and other hydrophilic solvents, and the like are usually used.

水溶性糸を抽出(溶解除去)する方法は、特に限定されないが、簡便な方法で水溶性糸を効率よく除去できる点から、高温の親水性溶媒に浸漬する方法であってもよい。親水性溶媒として水を用いる場合、抽出水は中性であってもよく、アルカリ又は酸性水溶液であってもよい。また、界面活性剤などを添加した水溶液であってもよい。   The method of extracting (dissolving and removing) the water-soluble yarn is not particularly limited, but may be a method of immersing in a high-temperature hydrophilic solvent from the viewpoint that the water-soluble yarn can be efficiently removed by a simple method. When water is used as the hydrophilic solvent, the extracted water may be neutral, or may be an alkali or acidic aqueous solution. Moreover, the aqueous solution which added surfactant etc. may be sufficient.

抽出処理温度は、水溶性糸を構成する繊維の種類や溶媒に対する溶解度、糸の形態や太さなどに応じて調節できるが、例えば、熱水を用いて水溶性ポリビニルアルコール系繊維で構成された水溶性糸を抽出する場合には、例えば、急激に溶解が開始する温度(溶解温度)以上の温度(特に、溶解温度よりも10〜20℃程度高い温度)で処理するのが好ましい。このような温度で処理すると、水溶性糸を短時間で速やかに織編物から除去できる。処理温度が低すぎると、水溶性糸の抽出性が十分でなく、生産性が低下する。また、処理温度が高すぎると、水溶性糸の溶解時間が極端に短くなるとともに、織編物の品質も低下し易い。   The extraction treatment temperature can be adjusted according to the type of fiber constituting the water-soluble yarn, the solubility in the solvent, the shape and thickness of the yarn, etc., for example, it is made of water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol fiber using hot water. In the case of extracting the water-soluble yarn, for example, it is preferable to perform the treatment at a temperature higher than the temperature at which dissolution starts abruptly (dissolution temperature) (in particular, a temperature higher by about 10 to 20 ° C. than the dissolution temperature). By treating at such a temperature, the water-soluble yarn can be quickly removed from the knitted or knitted fabric in a short time. If the treatment temperature is too low, the extractability of the water-soluble yarn is not sufficient and the productivity is lowered. If the treatment temperature is too high, the dissolution time of the water-soluble yarn becomes extremely short, and the quality of the woven or knitted fabric tends to deteriorate.

親水性溶媒の割合は、織編物に対して2倍(質量基準)以上であり、例えば、2〜1000倍、好ましくは3〜100倍、さらに好ましくは5〜50倍程度である。親水性溶媒の量が少なすぎると、水溶性糸の除去が不十分となる。なお、抽出除去が不十分な場合には、水溶性糸を含まないフレッシュな親水性溶媒を用いて、再度親水性溶媒浴中で水溶性糸を抽出除去してもよい。   The ratio of the hydrophilic solvent is 2 times (mass basis) or more with respect to the woven or knitted fabric, for example, 2 to 1000 times, preferably 3 to 100 times, and more preferably about 5 to 50 times. If the amount of the hydrophilic solvent is too small, the removal of the water-soluble yarn becomes insufficient. In addition, when extraction removal is inadequate, you may extract and remove a water-soluble thread | yarn again in a hydrophilic solvent bath using the fresh hydrophilic solvent which does not contain a water-soluble thread | yarn.

抽出処理時間についても、目的や使用する装置、処理温度に応じて適宜調整が可能であるが、生産効率、安定性、得られる織編物の品質・性能などを考慮すると、例えば、1〜300分間、好ましくは3〜200分間、さらに好ましくは5〜100分間(特に10〜60分間)程度である。   The extraction processing time can also be adjusted as appropriate according to the purpose, the device to be used, and the processing temperature, but considering production efficiency, stability, quality / performance of the resulting knitted fabric, for example, 1 to 300 minutes It is preferably about 3 to 200 minutes, more preferably about 5 to 100 minutes (especially 10 to 60 minutes).

水溶性糸を抽出処理した後の織編物(布帛)は自然乾燥してもよいが、布帛の風合いや通気性を向上させる点から、加熱して乾燥するのが好ましい。乾燥温度は、織編物を構成する繊維の種類などに応じて適宜選択でき、例えば、60℃以上、好ましくは80〜300℃、さらに好ましくは100〜200℃(特に120〜160℃)程度である。乾燥時間は、例えば、0.5分〜24時間、好ましくは1分〜10時間、3分〜1時間程度である。   The woven or knitted fabric (fabric) after the extraction treatment of the water-soluble yarn may be naturally dried, but is preferably heated and dried from the viewpoint of improving the texture and breathability of the fabric. The drying temperature can be appropriately selected according to the type of fiber constituting the woven or knitted fabric, and is, for example, about 60 ° C. or higher, preferably 80 to 300 ° C., more preferably about 100 to 200 ° C. (particularly 120 to 160 ° C.). . The drying time is, for example, about 0.5 minute to 24 hours, preferably about 1 minute to 10 hours, and about 3 minutes to 1 hour.

なお、このような親水性溶媒による処理は、生産工程の円滑性、織編物の品質の点から、織編物を染色したり、織編物に樹脂を付着する工程の前に行うのが好ましい。染色工程や樹脂付着工程中またはこれらの工程の後に水溶性糸の抽出処理を行うと、染色工程や樹脂付着工程に支障を与えるとともに、水溶性糸の除去が充分に行われなくなる。   Such a treatment with a hydrophilic solvent is preferably performed before the step of dyeing the woven or knitted fabric or attaching the resin to the woven or knitted fabric from the viewpoint of the smoothness of the production process and the quality of the woven or knitted fabric. If the water-soluble yarn is extracted during or after the dyeing step or the resin adhering step, the dyeing step or the resin adhering step is hindered, and the water-soluble yarn is not sufficiently removed.

本発明の織編物(布帛)には、必要に応じて、安定剤(熱安定剤、紫外線吸収剤、光安定剤、酸化防止剤など)、微粒子、着色剤、帯電防止剤、難燃剤、可塑剤、潤滑剤、結晶化速度遅延剤などの添加剤が含まれていてもよい。これらの添加剤は、単独で又は二種以上組み合わせて使用できる。これらの添加剤は、複合撚糸を構成する各糸、複合撚糸、織編物のいずれに含まれていてもよい。   In the woven or knitted fabric (fabric) of the present invention, stabilizers (thermal stabilizers, ultraviolet absorbers, light stabilizers, antioxidants, etc.), fine particles, colorants, antistatic agents, flame retardants, plastics are used as necessary. Additives such as an agent, a lubricant, and a crystallization rate retarder may be contained. These additives can be used alone or in combination of two or more. These additives may be contained in any of the yarns constituting the composite twisted yarn, the composite twisted yarn, and the woven or knitted fabric.

このようにして得られた伸縮性布帛は、紡績糸と水不溶性フィラメント糸との複合撚糸を含む。この複合撚糸は布帛製造前の原料撚糸と比べて水溶性糸が除去されているが、紡績糸の撚り(上撚)と複合撚糸の撚り(下撚)との関係は、水溶性糸の除去前と同様に、上撚と下撚との撚り方向が同一方向であり、両者の比率も水溶性糸除去前の比率を維持している。すなわち、上撚と下撚との撚り数比(上撚/下撚)は0.3〜2倍程度の範囲から選択でき、例えば、0.3〜1.8倍、好ましくは0.4〜1.5倍、さらに好ましくは0.5〜1.3倍程度である。但し、水溶性糸の除去により、紡績糸と水不溶性フィラメント糸の間に空隙が生じるため、上撚の撚りにおいて撓みが発生し、布帛の伸縮性及びキックバック性を発現している。   The stretchable fabric thus obtained contains a composite twisted yarn of spun yarn and water-insoluble filament yarn. This composite twisted yarn has water-soluble yarn removed compared to the raw material twisted yarn before fabric manufacture, but the relationship between the twist of the spun yarn (upper twist) and the twist of the composite twisted yarn (lower twist) is the removal of the water-soluble yarn. As before, the twisting direction of the upper twist and the lower twist is the same direction, and the ratio of both is also maintained before removing the water-soluble yarn. That is, the twist ratio between the upper twist and the lower twist (upper twist / lower twist) can be selected from a range of about 0.3 to 2 times, for example, 0.3 to 1.8 times, preferably 0.4 to It is about 1.5 times, more preferably about 0.5 to 1.3 times. However, the removal of the water-soluble yarn creates a gap between the spun yarn and the water-insoluble filament yarn, so that bending occurs in the twist of the upper twist, and the stretchability and kickback property of the fabric are expressed.

本発明の伸縮性布帛は、前述のような作用により、キックバック性の高い伸縮力を有しており、布帛の少なくとも一方向(複合撚糸の長さ方向、例えば、織物の緯糸のみを複合撚糸で構成した場合、織物の緯方向)において、優れた伸長率及び回復率を示す。具体的には、伸長率は15%以上を示し、例えば、15〜50%、好ましくは18〜40%、さらに好ましくは20〜30%程度である。回復率は50%以上を示し、例えば、50〜99%、好ましくは60〜98%、さらに好ましくは70〜95%(特に75〜90%)程度である。なお、伸長率及び回復率は、下記式で示される。   The stretchable fabric of the present invention has a high kickback stretchability due to the above-described action, and is composed of at least one direction of the fabric (the length direction of the composite twisted yarn, for example, only the weft of the woven fabric. In the weft direction of the woven fabric), it exhibits excellent elongation and recovery. Specifically, the elongation rate is 15% or more, for example, 15 to 50%, preferably 18 to 40%, and more preferably about 20 to 30%. The recovery rate is 50% or more, for example, 50 to 99%, preferably 60 to 98%, and more preferably 70 to 95% (particularly 75 to 90%). In addition, an expansion rate and a recovery rate are shown by the following formula.

伸長率(%)=[(L2−L1)/L1]×100
[式中、L1は、長さ15cm及び幅2.5cmの布帛の長さ方向の一方の端部の中央(幅方向の中央)に5gの重りを取り付け、重りを付けた端部を下にして布帛を垂直に吊した状態で1分間放置したときの布帛の長さを示し、
L2は、長さL1を測定後、5gの重りを布帛の端部から取り去り、代わりに300gの重りを同じ箇所に取り付けて垂直に吊した状態で3分間放置したときの布帛の長さを示す]
回復率(%)=[(L3−L1)/L1]×100
[式中、L1は、前記に同じであり、
L3は、長さL2を測定後、布帛を平坦なところに5時間放置し、その後、5gの重りを同じ箇所に取り付けて垂直に吊した状態で1分間放置したときの布帛の長さを示す]。
Elongation rate (%) = [(L2-L1) / L1] × 100
[In the formula, L1 is a 15 cm long and 2.5 cm wide fabric with a 5 g weight attached to the center of one end in the length direction (the center in the width direction), and the weighted end facing down. Shows the length of the fabric when left for 1 minute with the fabric suspended vertically,
L2 indicates the length of the fabric when the length L1 is measured, the weight of 5 g is removed from the end portion of the fabric, and instead the 300 g weight is attached to the same portion and is left vertically for 3 minutes. ]
Recovery rate (%) = [(L3-L1) / L1] × 100
[Wherein L1 is the same as defined above;
L3 indicates the length of the fabric when the fabric is left on a flat place for 5 hours after measuring the length L2, and then left for 1 minute with a 5 g weight attached to the same location and suspended vertically. ].

以下に、実施例に基づいて本発明をより詳細に説明するが、本発明はこれらの実施例によって限定されるものではない。なお、実施例及び比較例において、織物(平織生地)の伸長率及びキックバック性は次のようにして測定した。   Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail based on examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. In Examples and Comparative Examples, the elongation rate and kickback property of the woven fabric (plain woven fabric) were measured as follows.

[水不溶性フィラメント糸の捲縮伸長率]
検尺機で0.044cN/デシテックスの張力下で11110dtexの輪奈状カセ(全長50cm)を作製した。得られたカセの輪奈に金棒を通し、金棒を水平にした状態でカセの下端部に10gの重りを取り付けて初荷重をかけ、空気中(25℃、65%RH)で5分間放置した。その後、金棒を水平にした状態で90℃の恒温水槽内にカセを浸漬して30分間加熱処理した。次いで、恒温水槽からカセを引き上げて10gの重りを取り外した。さらに、10gの重りを取り外して荷重を除き、紙の水分を紙に吸収させた後、室温(25℃)で4時間乾燥した。乾燥後のカセに対して、再度10gの重りをカセの下端部に取り付けて空気中(25℃、65%RH)で5分間放置し、カセの全長(cm)を測定した。この長さをL1とした。
[Crimp elongation rate of water-insoluble filament yarn]
An 11110 dtex wrinkled casserole (total length 50 cm) was produced with a measuring instrument under a tension of 0.044 cN / dtex. Pass the metal rod through the obtained casserole, put a weight of 10g on the bottom of the casserole with the metal rod leveled, apply the initial load, and let stand in the air (25 ° C, 65% RH) for 5 minutes. . Thereafter, the casserole was immersed in a constant temperature water bath at 90 ° C. with the metal rod leveled, and heat treatment was performed for 30 minutes. Next, the cassette was pulled up from the thermostatic water tank and the 10 g weight was removed. Further, the weight of 10 g was removed to remove the load, the paper was absorbed by the paper, and then dried at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 4 hours. A 10-g weight was again attached to the lower end part of the cassette after drying, and it was left in the air (25 degreeC, 65% RH) for 5 minutes, and the full length (cm) of the casserole was measured. This length was defined as L1.

さらに、カセの全長L1を測定後、カセから10gの重りを取り外し、代わりに1000gの重りをカセの下端部に取り付けて空気中(25℃、65%RH)で5分間放置し、カセの全長(cm)を測定した。この長さをL2とした。L1及びL2から、下記式に基づいて、捲縮伸長率を求めた。   Furthermore, after measuring the total length L1 of the casserole, remove the 10 g weight from the casserole, and instead attach a 1000 g weight to the bottom end of the casket and leave it in the air (25 ° C., 65% RH) for 5 minutes. (Cm) was measured. This length was designated L2. Based on the following formula, the crimp elongation rate was determined from L1 and L2.

捲縮伸長率(%)=[(L2−L1)/L2]×100。     Crimp elongation (%) = [(L2-L1) / L2] × 100.

[織物の伸長率及び回復率(キックバック性)]
得られた平織生地から、長さ15cm及び幅2.5cmの寸法で試験片を切り取った。切り取った試験片の長さ方向の一方の端部の中央(幅方向の中央)に5gの重りを取り付けて、重りを付けた端部を下にして試験片を垂直に吊してその状態で1分間放置し、そのときの試験片の長さ(L1)を測定した。
[Elongation rate and recovery rate of fabric (kickback property)]
A test piece was cut out from the obtained plain woven fabric with a length of 15 cm and a width of 2.5 cm. Attach a 5g weight to the center of one end in the length direction (the center in the width direction) of the cut-out test piece, and hang the test piece vertically with the weighted end facing down. The sample was left for 1 minute, and the length (L1) of the test piece at that time was measured.

次いで、前記5gの重りを試験片の端部から取り去り、代わりに300gの重りを同じ箇所に取り付けて垂直に吊してその状態で3分間放置し、そのときの試験片の長さ(L2)(cm)を測定して、下記式から平織生地の経方向の伸長率(%)を求めた。   Next, the 5 g weight is removed from the end of the test piece. Instead, a 300 g weight is attached to the same location and hung vertically and left in that state for 3 minutes. The length of the test piece at that time (L2) (Cm) was measured, and the elongation (%) in the warp direction of the plain weave fabric was determined from the following formula.

伸長率(%)={(L2−L1)/L1}×100
長さ(L2)を測定後、前記300gの重りを布帛の端部から取り去り、試験片を平らなところに5時間放置し、その後、5gの重りを同じ箇所に取り付けて垂直に吊してその状態で1分間放置し、そのときの試験片の長さ(L3)(cm)を測定して、下記式から平織生地の経方向の回復率(%)を求めた。
Elongation rate (%) = {(L2-L1) / L1} × 100
After measuring the length (L2), the 300 g weight is removed from the end of the fabric, and the test piece is left on a flat place for 5 hours, and then the 5 g weight is attached to the same location and hung vertically. The sample was left in the state for 1 minute, and the length (L3) (cm) of the test piece at that time was measured, and the recovery rate (%) in the warp direction of the plain weave fabric was determined from the following formula.

回復率(%)={(L3−L1)/L1}×100
伸長率及び回復率(キックバック性)は、平織生地の経方向及び緯方向について測定した。すなわち、経方向では、生地の経方向が長さ方向となるように切り取った試験片で測定し、緯方向では、生地の緯方向が長さ方向となるように切り取った試験片で測定した。
Recovery rate (%) = {(L3-L1) / L1} × 100
The elongation rate and the recovery rate (kickback property) were measured in the warp direction and the weft direction of the plain weave fabric. That is, in the warp direction, measurement was performed with a test piece cut so that the warp direction of the fabric was the length direction, and in the weft direction, measurement was performed with a test piece cut so that the weft direction of the fabric was the length direction.

(実施例1)
ウール紡績糸(Z撚:600回/m、ウール100%、ウール番手48番、日本毛織(株)製)、ポリエステル長繊維(捲縮伸張率:10%、33デシテックス/12フィラメント、(株)クラレ製、「クラベラ」)、ビニルアルコール系水溶性糸(80℃の水に溶解する糸、56デシテックス/12フィラメント、(株)クラレ製、「水溶性ビニロン」)の3種の糸を、ダブルツイスター(村田機械(株)製、「36M」)を用いて、Z600回/mとなるように上撚をかけて撚糸し、複合撚糸を作製した。
Example 1
Wool spun yarn (Z twist: 600 times / m, wool 100%, wool count No. 48, manufactured by Nippon Wool Co., Ltd.), polyester filament (crimp elongation: 10%, 33 dtex / 12 filament, Co., Ltd.) Kuraray's “Clavera”), vinyl alcohol water-soluble yarn (yarn that dissolves in water at 80 ° C., 56 dtex / 12 filament, Kuraray Co., Ltd., “water-soluble vinylon”) Using a twister (Murata Kikai Co., Ltd., “36M”), a twisted yarn was twisted by applying an upper twist so as to be Z600 times / m to produce a composite twisted yarn.

得られた複合撚糸から所定長(1m)の糸を切り取って、試料糸とし、その試料糸の上撚を解除して、紡績糸と長繊維と水溶性糸との3種類の糸に分離し、分離したそれぞれの糸の質量を測定し、その測定結果から複合撚糸におけるそれぞれの糸の質量比を求めたところ、紡績糸/長繊維/水溶性糸=70/11/19であった。   A thread of a predetermined length (1 m) is cut from the obtained composite twisted yarn to obtain a sample yarn, and the upper twist of the sample yarn is released to separate the yarn into three types of spun yarn, long fiber, and water-soluble yarn. Then, the mass of each separated yarn was measured, and the mass ratio of each yarn in the composite twisted yarn was determined from the measurement result. The result was spun yarn / long fiber / water-soluble yarn = 70/11/19.

得られた複合撚糸を経糸及び緯糸として使用して、経23本/cm、緯18本/cmの平織生地を製織した(平織生地における複合撚糸の混率100質量%)。得られた平織生地を、90℃の熱水中に15分間浸漬して(浴比(水に対する生地の比率)=1:10)、生地を形成している複合撚糸中の水溶性糸を溶解除去し、次いで生地を水から取り出して80℃の熱水で洗浄した後、120℃で乾燥した。得られた生地の経方向及び緯方向の伸長率及び回復率を測定したところ、伸長率は経方向19%及び緯方向22%、回復率は経方向75%及び緯方向75%であり、経緯両方向に良好な伸縮性とキックバック性を有していた。   The obtained composite twisted yarn was used as a warp and a weft to weave a plain weave fabric having a warp of 23 / cm and a weft of 18 / cm (100% by mass of the composite twisted yarn in the plain weave fabric). The obtained plain weave fabric is immersed in hot water at 90 ° C. for 15 minutes (bath ratio (ratio of fabric to water) = 1: 10) to dissolve the water-soluble yarn in the composite twisted yarn forming the fabric. Then, the dough was taken out of the water, washed with hot water at 80 ° C., and dried at 120 ° C. When the stretch rate and recovery rate in the warp direction and the weft direction of the obtained fabric were measured, the stretch rate was 19% in the warp direction and 22% in the weft direction, and the recovery rate was 75% in the warp direction and 75% in the weft direction. It had good stretchability and kickback in both directions.

(実施例2)
ウール双糸(ウール番手60番、日本毛織(株)製)を経糸として使用し、実施例1で得られた複合撚糸を緯糸として使用して、経25本/cm、緯22本/cmの平織生地を製織した(複合撚糸の混率45質量%)。この生地を実施例1と同様に溶解除去及び乾燥処理し、伸長率及び回復率を測定したところ、伸長率は経方向10%及び緯方向23%、回復率は経方向65%及び緯方向78%であり、緯方向に良好な伸縮性とキックバック性を有していた。
(Example 2)
Using wool double yarn (wool count 60, manufactured by Nippon Kori Co., Ltd.) as warp, and using the composite twisted yarn obtained in Example 1 as weft, warp 25 / cm, weft 22 / cm A plain weave fabric was woven (mixing ratio of composite twisted yarn 45% by mass). This dough was dissolved and removed in the same manner as in Example 1 and the elongation rate and the recovery rate were measured. The elongation rate was 10% in the warp direction and 23% in the weft direction, and the recovery rate was 65% in the warp direction and 78 in the weft direction. %, And had good stretchability and kickback property in the weft direction.

(参考例1)
ウール双糸(ウール番手60番、日本毛織(株)製)を経糸として使用し、実施例1で得られた複合撚糸と前記ウール双糸とを、緯糸として複合撚糸:ウール双糸=1:4(本数比)で使用して、経25本/cm、緯22本/cmの平織生地を製織した(複合撚糸の混率9質量%)。この生地を実施例1と同様に溶解除去及び乾燥処理し、伸長率を測定したところ、伸長率は経方向10%及び緯方向15%であり、伸縮性に劣る生地であった。
(Reference Example 1)
Using a wool twine (wool count No. 60, manufactured by Nippon Woolen Co., Ltd.) as a warp, the composite twisted yarn obtained in Example 1 and the wool twisted yarn as a weft were used as a composite twisted yarn: wool twine = 1: 4 (number ratio) was used to weave a plain weave fabric with a warp of 25 / cm and a weft of 22 / cm (mixed twisted 9 mass%). When this dough was dissolved and removed in the same manner as in Example 1 and the elongation rate was measured, the elongation rate was 10% in the warp direction and 15% in the weft direction, and the fabric was inferior in stretchability.

(実施例3)
ウール紡績糸(Z撚:600回/m、ウール100%、ウール番手48番、日本毛織(株)製)、ポリエステル長繊維(捲縮伸張率:10%、33デシテックス/12フィラメント、(株)クラレ製、「クラベラ」)、ビニルアルコール系水溶性糸(80℃の水に溶解する糸、56デシテックス/12フィラメント、(株)クラレ製、「水溶性ビニロン」)の3種の糸を、ダブルツイスター(村田機械(株)製、「36M」)を用いて、Z1000回/mとなるように上撚をかけて撚糸し、複合撚糸を作製した。実施例1と同様にして、それぞれの糸の質量比を求めたところ、紡績糸/長繊維/水溶性糸=70/11/19であった。
(Example 3)
Wool spun yarn (Z twist: 600 times / m, wool 100%, wool count No. 48, manufactured by Nippon Wool Co., Ltd.), polyester filament (crimp elongation: 10%, 33 dtex / 12 filament, Co., Ltd.) Kuraray's “Clavera”), vinyl alcohol water-soluble yarn (yarn that dissolves in water at 80 ° C., 56 dtex / 12 filament, Kuraray Co., Ltd., “water-soluble vinylon”) Using a twister (Murata Kikai Co., Ltd., “36M”), a twisted yarn was twisted by applying an upper twist so as to be Z1000 times / m to produce a composite twisted yarn. When the mass ratio of each yarn was determined in the same manner as in Example 1, spun yarn / long fiber / water-soluble yarn = 70/11/19.

ウール双糸(ウール番手60番、日本毛織(株)製)を経糸として使用し、得られた複合撚糸を緯糸として使用して、経25本/cm、緯22本/cmの平織生地を製織した(複合撚糸の混率45質量%)。この生地を実施例1と同様に溶解除去及び乾燥処理し、伸長率及び回復率を測定したところ、伸長率は経方向10%及び緯方向26%、回復率は経方向65%及び緯方向80%であり、緯方向に良好な伸縮性とキックバック性を有していた。   Weaving a plain weave fabric with a warp of 25 / cm and a weft of 22 / cm, using a wool twine (wool count 60, manufactured by Nippon woolen Co., Ltd.) as a warp, and using the resulting composite twisted yarn as a weft. (Mixing ratio of composite twisted yarn 45% by mass). This dough was dissolved and removed in the same manner as in Example 1, and the elongation rate and the recovery rate were measured. The elongation rate was 10% in the warp direction and 26% in the weft direction, and the recovery rate was 65% in the warp direction and 80 in the weft direction. %, And had good stretchability and kickback property in the weft direction.

(参考例2)
ウール紡績糸(Z撚:600回/m、ウール100%、ウール番手48番、日本毛織(株)製)、ポリエステル長繊維(捲縮伸張率:10%、33デシテックス/12フィラメント、(株)クラレ製、「クラベラ」)、ビニルアルコール系水溶性糸(80℃の水に溶解する糸、56デシテックス/12フィラメント、(株)クラレ製、「水溶性ビニロン」)の3種の糸を、ダブルツイスター(村田機械(株)製、「36M」)を用いて、Z200回/mとなるように上撚をかけて撚糸し、複合撚糸を作製した。実施例1と同様にして、それぞれの糸の質量比を求めたところ、紡績糸/長繊維/水溶性糸=70/11/19であった。
(Reference Example 2)
Wool spun yarn (Z twist: 600 times / m, wool 100%, wool count No. 48, manufactured by Nippon Wool Co., Ltd.), polyester filament (crimp elongation: 10%, 33 dtex / 12 filament, Co., Ltd.) Kuraray's “Clavera”), vinyl alcohol water-soluble yarn (yarn that dissolves in water at 80 ° C., 56 dtex / 12 filament, Kuraray Co., Ltd., “water-soluble vinylon”) Using a twister (Murata Kikai Co., Ltd., “36M”), a twisted yarn was twisted by applying an upper twist so as to be Z200 times / m to produce a composite twisted yarn. When the mass ratio of each yarn was determined in the same manner as in Example 1, spun yarn / long fiber / water-soluble yarn = 70/11/19.

ウール双糸(ウール番手60番、日本毛織(株)製」)を経糸として使用し、得られた複合撚糸を緯糸として使用して、経25本/cm、緯22本/cmの平織生地を製織した(複合撚糸の混率45質量%)。この生地を実施例1と同様に溶解除去及び乾燥処理し、伸長率及び回復率を測定したところ、伸長率は経方向10%及び緯方向18%、回復率は経方向65%及び緯方向60%であり、緯方向にキックバック性を有していた。   Using wool double yarn (wool count No. 60, manufactured by Nippon Woolen Co., Ltd.) as warp, and using the obtained composite twisted yarn as weft, warp 25 / cm, weft 22 / cm plain weave fabric Weaving (mixing ratio of composite twisted yarn 45% by mass). This dough was dissolved and removed in the same manner as in Example 1, and the elongation rate and the recovery rate were measured. The elongation rate was 10% in the warp direction and 18% in the weft direction, and the recovery rate was 65% in the warp direction and 60 in the weft direction. % And had kickback property in the weft direction.

(参考例3)
ウール紡績糸(Z撚:600回/m、ウール100%、ウール番手48番、日本毛織(株)製)、ポリエステル長繊維(捲縮伸張率:10%、33デシテックス/12フィラメント、(株)クラレ製、「クラベラ」)、ビニルアルコール系水溶性糸(80℃の水に溶解する糸、56デシテックス/12フィラメント、(株)クラレ製、「水溶性ビニロン」)の3種の糸を、ダブルツイスター(村田機械(株)製、「36M」)を用いて、Z1400回/mとなるように撚糸し、複合撚糸を作成しようとしたが、糸切れが多く撚糸が困難であった。
(Reference Example 3)
Wool spun yarn (Z twist: 600 times / m, wool 100%, wool count No. 48, manufactured by Nippon Wool Co., Ltd.), polyester filament (crimp elongation: 10%, 33 dtex / 12 filament, Co., Ltd.) Kuraray's “Clavera”), vinyl alcohol water-soluble yarn (yarn that dissolves in water at 80 ° C., 56 dtex / 12 filament, Kuraray Co., Ltd., “water-soluble vinylon”) A twister (Murata Kikai Co., Ltd., “36M”) was used to twist Z1400 times / m to create a composite twisted yarn. However, twisting was difficult because of many yarn breaks.

(実施例4)
綿紡績糸(Z撚:600回/m、綿100%、綿番手20番、都築紡績(株)製、「TS20単糸」)、ポリエステル長繊維(捲縮伸張率:20%、84デシテックス/36フィラメント、帝人ファイバー(株)製、「テトロン」)、ビニルアルコール系水溶性糸(80℃の水に溶解する糸、56デシテックス/12フィラメント、(株)クラレ製、「水溶性ビニロン」)の3種の糸を、ダブルツイスター(村田機械(株)製、「36M」)を用いて、Z400回/mとなるように上撚をかけて撚糸し、複合撚糸を作製した。実施例1と同様にして、それぞれの糸の質量比を求めたところ、紡績糸/長繊維/水溶性糸=68/19/13であった。
Example 4
Cotton spun yarn (Z twist: 600 times / m, 100% cotton, No. 20 cotton count, manufactured by Tsuzuki Spinning Co., Ltd., “TS20 single yarn”), polyester long fiber (crimp elongation: 20%, 84 dtex / 36 filaments, manufactured by Teijin Fibers Ltd., “Tetron”), vinyl alcohol water-soluble yarn (yarn that dissolves in water at 80 ° C., 56 dtex / 12 filament, manufactured by Kuraray Co., Ltd., “water-soluble vinylon”) Three types of yarns were twisted using a double twister (Murata Kikai Co., Ltd., “36M”) with an upper twist of Z400 times / m to produce a composite twisted yarn. When the mass ratio of each yarn was determined in the same manner as in Example 1, spun yarn / long fiber / water-soluble yarn = 68/19/13.

綿双糸(綿番手30番、都築紡績(株)製)を経糸として使用し、得られた複合撚糸を緯糸として使用して、経23本/cm、緯18本/cmの平織生地を製織した(複合撚糸の混率40質量%)。この生地を実施例1と同様に溶解除去及び乾燥処理し、伸長率及び回復率を測定したところ、伸長率は経方向10%及び緯方向22%、回復率は経方向35%及び緯方向83%であり、緯方向に良好な伸縮性とキックバック性を有していた。   Weaving a plain weave fabric with warp of 23 / cm and weft of 18 / cm using a cotton twine (Cotton No. 30, manufactured by Tsuzuki Boseki Co., Ltd.) as warp, and using the obtained composite twisted yarn as weft. (Mixing ratio of composite twisted yarn 40% by mass). The dough was dissolved and removed in the same manner as in Example 1, and the elongation rate and the recovery rate were measured. The elongation rate was 10% in the warp direction and 22% in the weft direction, and the recovery rate was 35% in the warp direction and 83 in the weft direction. %, And had good stretchability and kickback property in the weft direction.

(参考例4)
綿紡績糸(Z撚:1500回/m、綿100%、綿番手120番、Royal Textile Mills Ltd.(インド)社製、「Royal 120」)、ポリエステル長繊維(捲縮伸張率:10%、33デシテックス/12フィラメント、(株)クラレ製、「クラベラ」)、ビニルアルコール系水溶性糸(80℃の水に溶解する糸、390デシテックス/84フィラメント、(株)クラレ製、「水溶性ビニロン」)の3種の糸を、ダブルツイスター(村田機械(株)製、「36M」)を用いて、Z1000回/mとなるように上撚をかけて撚糸し、複合撚糸を作製した。実施例1と同様にして、それぞれの糸の質量比を求めたところ、紡績糸/長繊維/水溶性糸=10/7/83であった。
(Reference Example 4)
Cotton spun yarn (Z twist: 1500 times / m, 100% cotton, cotton number 120, manufactured by Royal Textile Mills Ltd. (India), “Royal 120”), polyester filament (crimp elongation: 10%, 33 decitex / 12 filament, manufactured by Kuraray Co., Ltd., “Clavera”), vinyl alcohol-based water-soluble yarn (thread dissolved in water at 80 ° C., 390 decitex / 84 filament, manufactured by Kuraray Co., Ltd., “water-soluble vinylon” ) Were twisted using a double twister (Murata Kikai Co., Ltd., “36M”) with an upper twist of Z1000 times / m to produce a composite twisted yarn. When the mass ratio of each yarn was determined in the same manner as in Example 1, spun yarn / long fiber / water-soluble yarn = 10/7/83.

綿双糸(綿番手30番、都築紡績(株)製)を経糸として使用し、得られた複合撚糸を緯糸として使用して、経23本/cm、緯17本/cmの平織生地を製織した(複合撚糸の混率40質量%)。この生地を実施例1と同様に溶解除去及び乾燥処理したが、得られた生地は安定性が低く、目寄れの起きやすい生地であった。   Weaving a plain weave fabric with warp of 23 / cm and weft of 17 / cm using cotton twine (Cotton No. 30; manufactured by Tsuzuki Boseki Co., Ltd.) as warp, and using the obtained composite twisted yarn as weft. (Mixing ratio of composite twisted yarn 40% by mass). This dough was dissolved and removed in the same manner as in Example 1. However, the obtained dough was low in stability and easily slipped.

(参考例5)
綿紡績糸(Z撚:700回/m、綿100%、綿番手30番、都築紡績(株)製、「TS30単糸」)、ポリエステル長繊維(捲縮伸張率:22%、333デシテックス/96フィラメント、LEALEA(台湾)社製)、ビニルアルコール系水溶性糸(80℃の水に溶解する糸、56デシテックス/12フィラメント、(株)クラレ製、「水溶性ビニロン」)の3種の糸を、ダブルツイスター(村田機械(株)製、「36M」)を用いて、Z900回/mとなるように上撚をかけて撚糸し、複合撚糸を作製した。実施例1と同様にして、それぞれの糸の質量比を求めたところ、紡績糸/長繊維/水溶性糸=34/57/9であった。
(Reference Example 5)
Cotton spun yarn (Z twist: 700 times / m, 100% cotton, cotton count No. 30, manufactured by Tsuzuki Spinning Co., Ltd., “TS30 single yarn”), polyester long fiber (crimp elongation: 22%, 333 dtex / 96 filaments, LEALEA (Taiwan)), vinyl alcohol water-soluble yarn (yarn that dissolves in water at 80 ° C., 56 dtex / 12 filament, Kuraray Co., Ltd., “water-soluble vinylon”) Using a double twister (Murata Kikai Co., Ltd., “36M”), a twisted yarn was twisted by applying an upper twist so as to be Z900 times / m, thereby producing a composite twisted yarn. When the mass ratio of each yarn was determined in the same manner as in Example 1, spun yarn / long fiber / water-soluble yarn = 34/57/9.

綿双糸(綿番手30番、都築紡績(株)製)を経糸として使用し、得られた複合撚糸を緯糸として使用して、経23本/cm、緯14本/cmの平織生地を製織した(複合撚糸の混率40質量%)。この生地を実施例1と同様に溶解除去及び乾燥処理し、伸長率及び回復率を測定したところ、伸長率は経方向10%及び緯方向25%、回復率は経方向35%及び緯方向80%であったが、ポリエステル長繊維の混率が高いため、紡績糸が生地の表面を占める割合が少ないためか、綿風合いが不十分な生地であった。   Weaving plain weave fabric of warp 23 / cm and weft 14 / cm using cotton twine (Cotton No. 30, manufactured by Tsuzuki Boseki Co., Ltd.) as warp and using the obtained composite twisted yarn as weft (Mixing ratio of composite twisted yarn 40% by mass). The dough was dissolved and removed in the same manner as in Example 1 and the elongation rate and the recovery rate were measured. The elongation rate was 10% in the warp direction and 25% in the weft direction, and the recovery rate was 35% in the warp direction and 80 in the weft direction. However, it was a fabric with insufficient cotton texture, probably because the blending ratio of polyester long fibers was high and the proportion of spun yarn occupying the surface of the fabric was small.

(実施例5)
綿双糸(綿番手30番、都築紡績(株)製)を経糸として使用し、実施例4で得られた複合撚糸と綿双糸(綿番手30番、都築紡績(株)製)とを、緯糸として、複合撚糸:綿双糸=1:1(本数比)で使用して、経23本/cm、緯18本/cmの平織生地を製織した(複合撚糸の混率21質量%)。この生地を実施例1と同様に溶解除去及び乾燥処理し、伸長率及び回復率を測定したところ、伸長率は経方向10%及び緯方向20%、回復率は経方向35%及び緯方向80%であり、緯方向に良好な伸縮性とキックバック性を有していた。
(Example 5)
Using the cotton double yarn (Cotton No. 30, manufactured by Tsuzuki Spinning Co., Ltd.) as warp yarn, the composite twisted yarn obtained in Example 4 and the cotton double yarn (Cotton No. 30 manufactured by Tsuzuki Spinning Co., Ltd.) As a weft, we used a composite twisted yarn: cotton twine = 1: 1 (number ratio) to weave a plain weave fabric with a warp of 23 / cm and a weft of 18 / cm (mixed twisted yarn 21 mass%). This dough was dissolved and removed in the same manner as in Example 1, and the elongation rate and the recovery rate were measured. The elongation rate was 10% in the warp direction and 20% in the weft direction, and the recovery rate was 35% in the warp direction and 80% in the weft direction. %, And had good stretchability and kickback property in the weft direction.

(比較例1)
綿紡績糸(Z撚:600回/m、綿100%、綿番手20番、都築紡績(株)製、「TS20単糸」)、ポリエステル長繊維(捲縮伸張率:25%、84デシテックス/36フィラメント、帝人ファイバー(株)製、「テトロン」)、ビニルアルコール系水溶性糸(80℃の水に溶解する糸、56デシテックス/12フィラメント、(株)クラレ製、「水溶性ビニロン」)の3種の糸を、ダブルツイスター(村田機械(株)製、「36M」)を用いて、S1000回/mとなるように上撚をかけて撚糸し、複合撚糸を作製した。実施例1と同様にして、それぞれの糸の質量比を求めたところ、紡績糸/長繊維/水溶性糸=68/19/13であった。
(Comparative Example 1)
Cotton spun yarn (Z twist: 600 times / m, cotton 100%, cotton count # 20, manufactured by Tsuzuki Spinning Co., Ltd., “TS20 single yarn”), polyester long fiber (crimp elongation: 25%, 84 dtex / 36 filaments, manufactured by Teijin Fibers Ltd., “Tetron”), vinyl alcohol water-soluble yarn (yarn that dissolves in water at 80 ° C., 56 dtex / 12 filament, manufactured by Kuraray Co., Ltd., “water-soluble vinylon”) Three types of yarns were twisted using a double twister (Murata Kikai Co., Ltd., “36M”) with an upper twist of S1000 times / m to produce a composite twisted yarn. When the mass ratio of each yarn was determined in the same manner as in Example 1, spun yarn / long fiber / water-soluble yarn = 68/19/13.

綿双糸(綿番手30番、都築紡績(株)製)を経糸として使用し、得られた複合撚糸を緯糸として使用して、経23本/cm、緯18本/cmの平織生地を製織した(複合撚糸の混率40質量%)。この生地を実施例1と同様に溶解除去及び乾燥処理し、伸長率及び回復率を測定したところ、伸長率は経方向10%及び緯方向23%、回復率は経方向35%及び緯方向45%であり、緯方向は良好な伸縮性を有するものの、キックバック性は充分ではなかった。   Weaving a plain weave fabric with warp of 23 / cm and weft of 18 / cm using a cotton twine (Cotton No. 30, manufactured by Tsuzuki Boseki Co., Ltd.) as warp, and using the obtained composite twisted yarn as weft. (Mixing ratio of composite twisted yarn 40% by mass). The dough was dissolved and removed in the same manner as in Example 1, and the elongation rate and the recovery rate were measured. The elongation rate was 10% in the warp direction and 23% in the weft direction, and the recovery rate was 35% in the warp direction and 45 in the weft direction. %, And the weft direction has good stretchability, but the kickback property was not sufficient.

実施例1〜5、参考例1〜5の及び比較例1結果を表1に示す。   Table 1 shows the results of Examples 1 to 5, Reference Examples 1 to 5, and Comparative Example 1.

Figure 0005108813
Figure 0005108813

本発明は、キックバック性の高い伸縮力を有しているため、衣料(紳士衣料、婦人衣料、スポーツ衣料、肌着、ファンデーションなど)、医療材料(弾性包帯など)、車輌用材料(車輌内装材など)、工業資材(ベルトコンベア用生地など)などに有効に利用できる。   Since the present invention has high kickback stretchability, it can be used for clothing (men's clothing, women's clothing, sports clothing, underwear, foundations, etc.), medical materials (elastic bandages, etc.), vehicle materials (vehicle interior materials) Etc.) and industrial materials (such as belt conveyor fabric).

Claims (9)

紡績糸、水不溶性フィラメント糸及び水溶性糸を、前記紡績糸の撚り方向と同一の方向に撚り合わせた複合撚糸であって、前記紡績糸と前記水不溶性フィラメント糸との割合(質量比)が、前者/後者=90/10〜70/30である複合撚糸A composite twisted yarn in which a spun yarn, a water-insoluble filament yarn and a water-soluble yarn are twisted in the same direction as the twist direction of the spun yarn, and the ratio (mass ratio) between the spun yarn and the water-insoluble filament yarn is The former / the latter = 90 / 10-70 / 30 composite twisted yarn . 複合撚糸の撚数が、紡績糸の撚数に対して0.3〜2倍である請求項1記載の複合撚糸。   The composite twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein the number of twists of the composite twisted yarn is 0.3 to 2 times the number of twisted spun yarns. 紡績糸及び水不溶性フィラメント糸の総量と、水溶性糸との割合(質量比)が、前者/後者=95/5〜50/50である請求項1又は2記載の複合撚糸。 And the total amount of the spun yarn and a water-insoluble filament yarn, composite yarn twisting of the proportion of water-soluble yarn (weight ratio), according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the former / the latter = 95 / 5-50 / 50. 紡績糸が単糸、複数の単糸を引き揃えた糸、双糸又は合撚糸であり、
水不溶性フィラメント糸が、ゴム弾性を有さず、かつ下記に示す捲縮伸長率が5%以上のフィラメント糸であり、
水溶性糸が、水溶性のフィラメント糸である請求項1〜3のいずれかに記載の複合撚糸。
捲縮伸長率(%)=(L2−L1)/L2×100
[式中、L1は、検尺機で0.044cN/dtexの張力下で作製した11110dtexの輪奈状カセの輪奈に金棒を通して金棒を水平にした状態でカセの下端部に10gの重りを取り付けて5分間放置後、金棒を水平にした状態で90℃の水槽内にカセを浸漬して30分間加熱処理し、次いで、水槽からカセを引き上げて10gの重りを取り外し、乾燥後、再度10gの重りをカセの下端部に取り付けて5分間放置したときのカセの全長を示し、
L2は、カセの全長L1を測定後、カセから10gの重りを取り外し、代わりに1000gの重りをカセの下端部に取り付けて5分間放置したときのカセの全長を示す]。
The spun yarn is a single yarn, a yarn in which a plurality of single yarns are aligned, a double yarn or a twisted yarn,
The water-insoluble filament yarn is a filament yarn having no rubber elasticity and having a crimp elongation of 5% or more as shown below,
The composite twisted yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the water-soluble yarn is a water-soluble filament yarn.
Crimp elongation (%) = (L2-L1) / L2 × 100
[In the formula, L1 has a weight of 10 g at the lower end of the casserole in a state where the metal rod is leveled through a 11110 dtex wrinkle wrench manufactured by a measuring instrument under a tension of 0.044 cN / dtex. After attaching and leaving for 5 minutes, immerse the casserole in a 90 ° C. water bath with the metal rod leveled, heat-treat for 30 minutes, then lift the casserole from the water bath to remove the 10 g weight, dry, and then again 10 g Shows the total length of the casserole when the weight is attached to the lower end of the casserole and left for 5 minutes,
L2 indicates the total length of the cassette when the total length L1 of the cassette is measured, the weight of 10 g is removed from the cassette, and instead the 1000-gram weight is attached to the lower end of the cassette and left for 5 minutes.
請求項1〜4のいずれかに記載の複合撚糸を含む織編物。   A woven or knitted fabric comprising the composite twisted yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4. 複合撚糸の割合が20質量%以上である請求項5記載の織編物。   The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 5, wherein the ratio of the composite twisted yarn is 20% by mass or more. 請求項5又は6記載の織編物から、織編物を構成する複合撚糸中の水溶性糸を親水性溶媒に溶解させて除去する布帛の製造方法。   A method for producing a fabric, wherein the water-soluble yarn in the composite twisted yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric is dissolved in a hydrophilic solvent and removed from the woven or knitted fabric according to claim 5 or 6. 請求項7記載の方法により得られた布帛。   A fabric obtained by the method according to claim 7. 紡績糸及び水不溶性フィラメント糸を撚り合わせた複合撚糸を含み、かつ下記に示す伸長率及び回復率が、それぞれ15%以上及び50%以上である布帛であって、前記紡績糸と前記水不溶性フィラメント糸との割合(質量比)が、前者/後者=90/10〜70/30であり、前記複合撚糸の撚りが撓みを有し、前記複合撚糸の撚り方向が前記紡績糸の撚り方向と同一方向であり、かつ前記複合撚糸の撚数が、前記紡績糸の撚数に対して0.5〜2倍である布帛。
伸長率(%)=[(L2−L1)/L1]×100
[式中、L1は、長さ15cm及び幅2.5cmの布帛の長さ方向の一方の端部の中央(幅方向の中央)に5gの重りを取り付け、重りを付けた端部を下にして布帛を垂直に吊した状態で1分間放置したときの布帛の長さを示し、
L2は、長さL1を測定後、5gの重りを布帛の端部から取り去り、代わりに300gの重りを同じ箇所に取り付けて垂直に吊した状態で3分間放置したときの布帛の長さを示す]
回復率(%)=[(L3−L1)/L1]×100
[式中、L1は、前記に同じであり、
L3は、長さL2を測定後、300gの重りを布帛の端部から取り去り、布帛を平坦なところに5時間放置し、その後、5gの重りを同じ箇所に取り付けて垂直に吊した状態で1分間放置したときの布帛の長さを示す]
A fabric comprising a composite twisted yarn obtained by twisting a spun yarn and a water-insoluble filament yarn, and having the following elongation and recovery rates of 15% or more and 50% or more, respectively, wherein the spun yarn and the water-insoluble filament The ratio (mass ratio) with the yarn is the former / the latter = 90/10 to 70/30 , the twist of the composite twisted yarn is bent, and the twist direction of the composite twisted yarn is the same as the twist direction of the spun yarn The fabric which is a direction and the twist number of the said composite twisted yarn is 0.5-2 times with respect to the twist number of the said spun yarn.
Elongation rate (%) = [(L2-L1) / L1] × 100
[In the formula, L1 is a 15 cm long and 2.5 cm wide fabric with a 5 g weight attached to the center of one end in the length direction (the center in the width direction), and the weighted end facing down. Shows the length of the fabric when left for 1 minute with the fabric suspended vertically,
L2 indicates the length of the fabric when the length L1 is measured, the weight of 5 g is removed from the end portion of the fabric, and instead the 300 g weight is attached to the same portion and is left vertically for 3 minutes. ]
Recovery rate (%) = [(L3-L1) / L1] × 100
[Wherein L1 is the same as defined above;
L3, after measuring the length L2, remove the 300 g weight from the end of the fabric, leave the fabric on a flat surface for 5 hours, and then attach the 5 g weight to the same location and hang it vertically. Indicates the length of the fabric when left for a minute]
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