JP4316971B2 - Lace knitting - Google Patents
Lace knitting Download PDFInfo
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- JP4316971B2 JP4316971B2 JP2003332262A JP2003332262A JP4316971B2 JP 4316971 B2 JP4316971 B2 JP 4316971B2 JP 2003332262 A JP2003332262 A JP 2003332262A JP 2003332262 A JP2003332262 A JP 2003332262A JP 4316971 B2 JP4316971 B2 JP 4316971B2
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- Prior art keywords
- lace
- cross
- knitted fabric
- knitting
- polyester
- Prior art date
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- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 title claims description 15
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 32
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 23
- 238000007334 copolymerization reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 230000002269 spontaneous effect Effects 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 30
- WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N adipic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 14
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 description 9
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 description 7
- 239000001361 adipic acid Substances 0.000 description 7
- 235000011037 adipic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 7
- 239000002964 rayon Substances 0.000 description 7
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 5
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 4
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 206010016322 Feeling abnormal Diseases 0.000 description 3
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 3
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 2
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 2
- -1 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000006116 polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920002302 Nylon 6,6 Polymers 0.000 description 1
- VMHLLURERBWHNL-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium acetate Chemical compound [Na+].CC([O-])=O VMHLLURERBWHNL-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 150000001732 carboxylic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000013078 crystal Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009998 heat setting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011065 in-situ storage Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001788 irregular Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000002074 melt spinning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002736 nonionic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000035515 penetration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000001632 sodium acetate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000017281 sodium acetate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229910000029 sodium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000017550 sodium carbonate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008719 thickening Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 1
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Description
本発明は、高光沢のレース編物に関する。 The present invention relates to a high-gloss lace knitted fabric.
レース編物の柄糸として、レーヨン、ナイロン等の光沢性に優れた繊維が使用されてい
るが、レーヨンは染色堅牢度、強度、品質均一性、高価格、染色コストが高い等の問題が
あり、ナイロンでは高価格、抗ピリング性が低い等の問題がある。
Fibers with excellent gloss such as rayon and nylon are used as pattern yarn for lace knitting, but rayon has problems such as fastness to dyeing, strength, uniformity of quality, high price, high dyeing cost, Nylon has problems such as high price and low anti-pilling property.
一方、ポリエステル繊維の場合、光沢がレーヨン、ナイロンに劣るため、例えば特許文
献1に記載されているように、断面形状を三角や扁平等の異形断面とすることが従来から
行われている。
しかし、レース編物の柄糸はその編成及び毛羽立ちピリング対策のために撚糸を行う。
このために、単にポリエステル繊維の断面形状を扁平断面や三角断面とするだけでは、図
1、図2に示すように、撚糸により単繊維が編物表面に不均一に並び、単繊維間に隙間が
生じ鏡面反射が不十分となるため、レース編物としてレーヨンやナイロンに比べ光沢が不
足したものとなる。
However, the knitted yarn of the lace knitted fabric is twisted to prevent knitting and fluff pilling.
For this reason, if the cross-sectional shape of the polyester fiber is simply a flat cross section or a triangular cross section, as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, the single fibers are unevenly arranged on the knitted surface by the twisted yarn, and there are gaps between the single fibers. As a result, the specular reflection is insufficient, so that the knitted lace is less glossy than rayon or nylon.
本発明の要旨は、断面形状が直線部を有するポリエステル単繊維からなり、自発伸長性を有し、ヤング率が40CN/dtex以下のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を
複数本合糸し、撚糸した後、レース編物に編成することにより得られ、断面形状が直線部を有するポリエステル単繊維が、編物表面に該単繊維断面の直線部を含む単繊維側面を向けて、3本以上隙間なく配列している部分があることを特徴とするレース編物にある。
The gist of the present invention is a polyester multifilament yarn having a cross-sectional shape of a polyester monofilament having a straight portion, having spontaneous elongation, and a Young's modulus of 40 CN / dtex or less.
Polyester single fibers obtained by knitting a plurality of yarns and twisting and then knitting into a lace knitted fabric, the cross-sectional shape of which has a straight portion, face the single fiber side surface including the straight portion of the single fiber cross section on the knitted surface The knitted lace is characterized in that there are three or more portions arranged without gaps.
本発明は、光沢、ソフト感に優れたレース編物が得られる。 According to the present invention, a knitted lace having excellent gloss and softness can be obtained.
本願発明のレース編物の断面の一例を図3に、レース編物表面の一例を図4に示す。 An example of the cross section of the lace knitted fabric of the present invention is shown in FIG. 3, and an example of the surface of the lace knitted fabric is shown in FIG.
本発明では、断面形状が直線部を有するポリエステル単繊維が、編物表面に該単繊維断
面の直線部を含む単繊維側面を布帛表面側に向けて3本以上隙間なく配列している部分が
あることが必要である。
In the present invention, there are portions in which the polyester monofilament having a straight part in the cross-sectional shape is arranged on the surface of the knitted fabric with three or more monofilament side surfaces including the straight part of the cross section of the single fiber facing the fabric surface side without a gap. It is necessary.
ポリエステル単繊維の断面形状が直線部を有することにより、繊維表面の鏡面反射によ
り優れた光沢が得られる。断面形状が直線部を有するとは、三角、四角等があげられるが
、三角断面が光の反射、屈折により優れた光沢が得られるために好ましい。
Since the cross-sectional shape of the polyester monofilament has a straight line portion, excellent gloss can be obtained by mirror reflection on the fiber surface. The cross-sectional shape having a straight portion includes a triangle, a square, and the like, but a triangular cross-section is preferable because an excellent gloss can be obtained by reflection and refraction of light.
さらに本発明では、図3のように編物表面において、該単繊維断面の直線部を含む単繊
維側面を編物表面に向ける配列することにより、編物表面に平面部分が形成され、平面部
の鏡面反射により優れた光沢が得られる。また図4に示すように、該単繊維は3本以上が
隙間なく配列していることが必要である。該単繊維の配列が3本未満であったり、該単繊
維間に隙間があると光沢感が不十分となる。
Furthermore, in the present invention, as shown in FIG. 3, on the surface of the knitted fabric, a plane portion is formed on the surface of the knitted fabric by arranging the side surfaces of the single fibers including the straight portion of the single fiber cross section so as to face the surface of the knitted fabric. Gives an excellent gloss. Also, as shown in FIG. 4, it is necessary that three or more single fibers are arranged without gaps. If the arrangement of the single fibers is less than 3 or there is a gap between the single fibers, the glossiness becomes insufficient.
また本発明のレース編地のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は糸束の断面が扁平状に
なっていることが上記配列を容易にし編物表面の鏡面反射がより多く得られる点から好ま
しい。
In addition, the polyester multifilament yarn of the knitted lace fabric of the present invention preferably has a flat cross section of the yarn bundle from the viewpoint of facilitating the above arrangement and obtaining more mirror reflection on the surface of the knitted fabric.
さらに本発明では、ポリエステル単繊維が、共重合成分として5−ナトリウムスルホイ
ソフタル酸成分を含むことが、レース編物にソフト感を付与するうえで好ましい。5−ナ
トリウムスルホイソフタル酸成分は、繊維にソフト感を付与すると共に、カチオン染料に
対する染着座席として機能する。
Furthermore, in the present invention, it is preferable that the polyester monofilament contains a 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component as a copolymerization component in order to give a soft feeling to the lace knitted fabric. The 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component imparts a soft feeling to the fiber and functions as a dyeing seat for the cationic dye.
5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸成分の共重合量は0.5〜3.0モル%が好ましい
。5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸成分の共重合量が0.5モル%未満では、カチオン
染料に対する染色性が不足するとともに、編物のソフト感やしなやかさが不十分なものと
なりやすい。一方、3.0モル%を超えると5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸の増粘効
果により重合時のトルクが著しく高くなり、実際の重合度が上がらず、繊維化した時の繊
維強度が低下しやすい。
The copolymerization amount of the 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component is preferably 0.5 to 3.0 mol%. When the copolymerization amount of the 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component is less than 0.5 mol%, the dyeability with respect to the cationic dye is insufficient, and the softness and flexibility of the knitted fabric tend to be insufficient. On the other hand, if it exceeds 3.0 mol%, the torque at the time of polymerization is remarkably increased due to the thickening effect of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, the actual degree of polymerization does not increase, and the fiber strength when fiberized tends to decrease.
さらに本発明では、アジピン酸成分を共重合することも可能である。アジピン酸成分は
ポリエチレンテレフタレートの結晶に乱れを付与し、非晶部の配向を低下させ、染料の繊
維内部への浸透を容易にし、常圧可染性を向上させ、風合いをソフトにするものである。
In the present invention, it is also possible to copolymerize an adipic acid component. The adipic acid component disturbs the crystal of polyethylene terephthalate, lowers the orientation of the amorphous part, facilitates penetration of the dye into the fiber, improves atmospheric pressure dyeability, and softens the texture. is there.
アジピン酸成分の共重合量は、3〜15モル%が好ましい。アジピン酸成分の共重合量
が3モル%未満では、常圧染色をした場合十分に濃色染色されないと共に、ソフト感の向
上も不十分となりやすく、一方、アジピン酸の共重合量が15モル%を越えると、紡糸性
が悪くなりやすい。
The copolymerization amount of the adipic acid component is preferably 3 to 15 mol%. When the copolymerization amount of the adipic acid component is less than 3 mol%, the dyeing at normal pressure does not sufficiently darken the color and the soft feeling tends to be insufficient, while the copolymerization amount of adipic acid is 15 mol%. If it exceeds 1, the spinnability tends to deteriorate.
次に、本発明のレース編物の製造方法の一例を示す。 Next, an example of the manufacturing method of the lace fabric of this invention is shown.
本発明のレース編物は、断面形状が直線部を有するポリエステル単繊維からなり、自発
伸長性を有し、ヤング率が40CN/dtex以下のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸
を複数本合糸し、撚糸した後、レース編物に編成することにより得られる。
The lace knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of a polyester monofilament having a straight section in cross-sectional shape, has spontaneous elongation, and a plurality of polyester multifilament yarns having Young's modulus of 40 CN / dtex or less are combined and twisted. It is obtained by knitting into a knitted lace.
該ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は、自発伸長と低ヤング率の効果により、、撚糸
、レース編成時に受けた張力によって生じる単繊維の移動が染色加工の熱セットで緩和抑
制され糸束表面の乱れが少なくなるために、レース編物表面に該単繊維断面の直線部を含
む単繊維側面を向けて、3本以上隙間なく配列している部分ができ、光沢が向上すると考
えられる。
The polyester multifilament yarn has the effect of spontaneous elongation and low Young's modulus, so that the movement of the single fiber caused by the tension received during twisting and lace knitting is suppressed by the heat setting of the dyeing process, and the disturbance on the surface of the yarn bundle is reduced. For this reason, it is considered that the side of the single fiber including the straight part of the single fiber cross section is directed to the surface of the lace knitted fabric, and there are three or more portions arranged without gaps, and the gloss is improved.
該ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は、例えば共重合成分として5−ナトリウムスル
ホイソフタル酸成分及びアジピン酸成分を含むポリマーを用い、高配向未延伸糸(POY
)を紡糸し、公知の自発伸長糸の製造方法で延伸、緩和処理すれば良い。
The polyester multifilament yarn uses, for example, a polymer containing a 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component and an adipic acid component as a copolymer component, and a highly oriented undrawn yarn (POY).
) And may be drawn and relaxed by a known method for producing spontaneously stretched yarns.
また自発伸長とは、沸水処理後の収縮率及び、沸水処理後に180℃以上の乾熱処理を
行った際の収縮率が0%以下になる繊維をいう。
Spontaneous elongation refers to a fiber having a shrinkage rate after boiling water treatment and a shrinkage rate of 0% or less when a dry heat treatment at 180 ° C. or higher is performed after boiling water treatment.
なお、レース編物の編成は通常の方法で行えば良い。 The knitting of the lace fabric may be performed by a normal method.
以下に本発明を実施例により具体的に説明する。なお、各物性、評価は次の方法で求め
た。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically by way of examples. In addition, each physical property and evaluation were calculated | required with the following method.
ヤング率(初期引張抵抗度):JIS L−1013に準拠して測定した。 Young's modulus (initial tensile resistance): measured according to JIS L-1013.
沸水収縮率(BWS):1dtexあたり0.034CNの張力下で試長1mの10回
巻カセを準備し1dtexあたり0.034CNの荷重を負荷して初期カセ長(L0)を
測定し、そのカセを無荷重状態で沸騰水中に30分間浸漬した後、再び荷重をかけて測定
カセ長(L1)を測定して次式より算出した。
Boiling water shrinkage (BWS): Prepared a 10m roll with a test length of 1m under a tension of 0.034CN per dtex, applied a load of 0.034CN per dtex and measured the initial sag length (L0). Was immersed in boiling water for 30 minutes in an unloaded state, and then the load was applied again to measure the measurement casket length (L1), and the following formula was calculated.
沸水収縮率=(L0−L1)/L0×100%
乾熱収縮率(HAS):上記沸水処理時の収縮率を測定した後、測定後のカセサンプル
を雰囲気温度180℃の中に無荷重状態で10分間放置し、測定カセ長(L2)を測定し
、次式により算出した。
Boiling water shrinkage = (L0−L1) / L0 × 100%
Dry heat shrinkage rate (HAS): After measuring the shrinkage rate during the boiling water treatment, the measured cassette sample is allowed to stand for 10 minutes in an ambient temperature of 180 ° C. with no load, and the measurement casket length (L2) is measured. And calculated by the following formula.
乾熱収縮率=(L0−L2)/L0×100%
レース編物:ラッセルレース編機を使用し、地糸としてナイロン66繊維33dtex
26f、柄糸として、得られた各サンプルを3本合糸しZ撚り600T/Mで下撚後、該
糸条2本をS撚り500T/Mで合撚したものを用いて、花柄のレース編地を編成した後
、以下の処理を行った。
Dry heat shrinkage = (L0−L2) / L0 × 100%
Lace knitting: Russell lace knitting machine, nylon 66 fiber 33dtex as ground yarn
26f, 3 yarns of each of the obtained samples were combined as a patterned yarn, Z-twisted at 600 T / M, then twisted at 2 yarns and S-twisted at 500 T / M. After knitting the lace fabric, the following processing was performed.
精練:非イオン界面活性剤(花王(株)スコアロール700)1g/L、ソーダ灰1g
/L、80℃×30分→中間セット:195℃×1分。中間セット巾135cm→緩衝液
(酢酸+酢酸ソーダ)PH4〜5。100℃×60分。浴比1:30→仕上げセット:1
60℃×1分。仕上げ巾135cm。
Scouring: 1 g / L of nonionic surfactant (Kao Co., Ltd., Scoreroll 700), 1 g of soda ash
/ L, 80 ° C. × 30 minutes → intermediate set: 195 ° C. × 1 minute. Intermediate set width 135 cm → buffer (acetic acid + sodium acetate) PH 4-5, 100 ° C. × 60 minutes. Bath ratio 1:30 → Finishing set: 1
60 ° C. × 1 minute. Finishing width 135cm.
レース編物表面形態、断面形態:レース編物の表面及び断面をSEMにより観察した。 Lace knitted surface form and cross-sectional form: The surface and cross section of the lace knitted article were observed by SEM.
光沢、風合い:レース編物を目視及びハンドリングにより評価を行った。柄糸にレーヨ
ン繊維(167dtex50f)を2本Z撚り400T/Mで下撚り後、該糸条を2本S
撚り350T/Mで合撚したものを用いたレーヨン繊維によるレース編物を標準サンプル
として、標準サンプルに劣るものを×、同等かやや光沢があるものを△、明らかに優れた
光沢を示すものを○とした。
Gloss and texture: The lace knitted fabric was evaluated by visual observation and handling. Two rayon fibers (167dtex50f) are twisted on the patterned yarn with a Z twist of 400T / M, and then two of these yarns are S
A lace knitted fabric made of rayon fibers using a twist of 350 T / M is used as a standard sample. It was.
カルボン酸成分として5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸を1.0モル%、アジピン酸を
5モル%共重合したポリエチレンテレフタレートポリマー(極限粘度が0.64でTgが
64℃)を孔数48の三角断面の紡糸口金を用いて紡糸温度277℃、吐出量24g/m
inで溶融紡糸し、2700m/分で巻取って86dtex/48fの未延伸糸を得た。
Polyethylene terephthalate polymer (intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 and Tg of 64 ° C.) copolymerized with 1.0 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 5 mol% of adipic acid as a carboxylic acid component has a triangular cross section of 48 holes. Using a spinneret, spinning temperature is 277 ° C., discharge rate is 24 g / m
In-situ melt spinning was performed and wound at 2700 m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn of 86 dtex / 48f.
得られた未延伸糸を、下記の条件で延伸、緩和処理し、自発伸長糸を得た。 The obtained undrawn yarn was drawn and relaxed under the following conditions to obtain a spontaneously stretched yarn.
一段目延伸倍率=1.226
二段目延伸倍率=1.006
一段目引取りローラー温度=95℃
二段目引取りローラー温度=90℃
緩和率=15%、緩和温度=170℃
得られたポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は、ヤング率33CN/dtex、沸水収
縮率−1.2%、乾熱収縮率−2.6%であった。
First stage draw ratio = 1.226
Second stage draw ratio = 1.006
First stage take-up roller temperature = 95 ° C.
Second stage take-up roller temperature = 90 ° C.
Relaxation rate = 15%, relaxation temperature = 170 ° C.
The obtained polyester multifilament yarn had a Young's modulus of 33 CN / dtex, a boiling water shrinkage of -1.2%, and a dry heat shrinkage of -2.6%.
得られたポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を用いたレース編物の評価結果を表1に示
した。得られた編物は、三角断面の単繊維がその一辺を含む繊維側面を編物表面に向けて
、3〜5本が隙間なく配列して優れた光沢を示し、ソフト感にも優れたものであった。
The evaluation results of the lace knitted fabric using the obtained polyester multifilament yarn are shown in Table 1. The obtained knitted fabric has excellent gloss and softness, with 3 to 5 fibers arranged side by side with the fiber side including one side of the monofilament having a triangular cross section facing the knitted surface. It was.
(比較例1)
紡糸口金の紡糸孔を丸断面にした以外は実施例1と同条件で紡糸した。得られたポリエス
テルマルチフィラメント糸はヤング率34CN/dtex、沸水収縮率−1.3%、乾熱
収縮率−3.0%であった。
(Comparative Example 1)
Spinning was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the spinning hole of the spinneret had a round cross section. The obtained polyester multifilament yarn had a Young's modulus of 34 CN / dtex, a boiling water shrinkage of -1.3%, and a dry heat shrinkage of -3.0%.
得られたポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を用いられたレース編物の評価結果を表1
に示した。得られた編物は、レーヨン繊維にくらべ光沢が劣るものであった。
Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the lace knitting using the obtained polyester multifilament yarn.
It was shown to. The obtained knitted fabric was inferior in gloss to the rayon fiber.
(比較例2)
吐出量を34g/minに変更した以外は実施例1と同様にして、126dtex48f
の未延伸糸を得た。
(Comparative Example 2)
126 dtex48f in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the discharge amount was changed to 34 g / min.
Of undrawn yarn was obtained.
得られた未延伸糸を下記の条件で延伸、熱セット処理し延伸糸を得た。 The obtained undrawn yarn was drawn and heat set under the following conditions to obtain a drawn yarn.
一段目延伸倍率=1.011
二段目延伸倍率=1.52
一段目引取りローラー温度=80℃
熱セット温度=145℃
得られたポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸はヤング率75CN/dtex、沸水収縮
率8.3%であった。ヤング率が高く、自発伸長性を示さないため、得られた編物の表面
には、三角断面の単繊維が不均一並び、単繊維間の隙間も多く、通常の丸断面に比べ三角
断面の効果により光沢はあるが、レース編物としての光沢は不十分であった。
Second stage draw ratio = 1.52
First stage take-up roller temperature = 80 ° C.
Heat set temperature = 145 ° C
The obtained polyester multifilament yarn had a Young's modulus of 75 CN / dtex and a boiling water shrinkage of 8.3%. Because the Young's modulus is high and does not exhibit spontaneous stretchability, the resulting knitted fabric has a uniform cross-section of single fibers with a triangular cross-section and a large number of gaps between the single fibers. However, the gloss as a lace knitted fabric was insufficient.
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