JP4209232B2 - Polyester multifilament false twisted yarn, method for producing the same, and woven or knitted fabric containing the false twisted yarn - Google Patents
Polyester multifilament false twisted yarn, method for producing the same, and woven or knitted fabric containing the false twisted yarn Download PDFInfo
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Description
【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、光沢感とフクラミ感を有するとともに、自然な斑感と柔らかさを織編物に付与可能なポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸及びその製造方法並びにその仮撚加工糸を含む織編物に関する。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
スポーツ衣料やファッション衣料において、光沢感およびフクラミ感を有する素材が必要とされ、従来、このようなニーズに対して、ポリエステル繊維等の熱可塑性合成マルチフィラメント糸を低温及び／又は低撚数で仮撚加工を施して得た捲縮加工糸が一般的に利用されてきた。
【０００３】
また、光沢感の更なる向上が必要とされるニーズに対しては、例えば、異型断面糸を低温低撚数条件で仮撚加工して得た捲縮加工糸が提案（特許文献１、２参照）されている。しかしながら、異型断面糸の仮撚加工糸は、異型断面の効果により良好な光沢感は得られるものの、糸条全体としては糸条が曲げ硬いものとなり、仮撚捲縮が付与されているにも拘わらず、織編物としたときにソフト感が不十分であった。また、昨今の消費者ニーズの多様化は著しく、従来の光沢感だけではなく、新たな表面効果の付与も望まれている。
【０００４】
【特許文献１】
特開昭５１−１１９４７号公報
【特許文献２】
特開昭６３―２４３３４６号公報
【０００５】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明の目的は、従来技術における問題点を解消し、光沢感とフクラミ感を有するとともに、特に自然な斑感と柔らかさを織編物に付与可能で、かつ後工程通過性が良好なポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸を提供し、またその仮撚加工糸によって光沢感とフクラミ感とともに、特に自然な斑感と柔らかさを有する織編物を提供することにある。
【０００６】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明の第１の発明の要旨は、糸長手方向に太部と細部が形成されたポリエステル単繊維からなるポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を仮撚加工してなる仮撚加工糸であって、下記（１）〜（４）の要件を満足することを特徴とするポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸にあり、
（１）残留捲縮率：２．０〜１５．０％
（２）ヤング率 ：３．０〜７．０Ｎ／ｍｍ２
（３）引張り強さ：０．６〜２．５ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ
（４）伸び率 ：２０〜５０％
第２の発明の要旨は、糸長手方向に太部と細部が形成された単繊維からなるポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を、仮撚加撚域に供給し、加工糸繊度当たりの仮撚加撚張力が０．０５〜０．２５ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ、仮撚セット温度がＴｇ＋２０℃〜Ｔｇ＋７０℃（但し、Ｔｇはポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸のガラス転移点（℃）である）の条件下で仮撚捲縮加工を施すことを特徴とするポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸の製造方法にあり、さらに第３の発明の要旨は、前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸を含む織編物にある。
【０００７】
【発明の実施の形態】
本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚糸加工糸は、糸長手方向に太部と細部が形成されたポリエステル単繊維からなり、かつ下記（１）〜（４）の要件を備えるものである。
（１）残留捲縮率：２．０〜１５．０％
（２）ヤング率 ：３．０〜７．０Ｎ／ｍｍ２
（３）引張り強さ：０．６〜２．５ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ
（４）伸び率 ：２０〜５０％
【０００８】
本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸を構成するポリエステル単繊維が、糸長手方向に太部と細部が形成されていることで、太部は濃色に、細部は淡色に染色され、織編物に異色による斑効果を付与することが可能となる。また、本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸は、太さ変化のないストレートな通常のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸と比較して、太さ変化があるために糸が屈曲し易くなり、織編物にしたときに柔らかな風合いを付与することが可能となる。更に仮撚加撚〜解撚における撚り効果は、一般に細部に集中するため、本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸は、各単繊維での太部と細部とでは捲縮形態が異なり、斑感の付与並びに糸の柔らかさをより一層効果的に付与可能なものとする。
【０００９】
本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸において、単繊維の太部と細部の形成状態は特に限定されるものではないが、構成単繊維間で太部と細部がそれぞれランダムに形成位置を変えていることが好ましく、更に自然な斑感を付与可能となる。なお、構成単繊維間でそれぞれランダムに太部と細部の形成位置が変わっているとは、該仮撚加工糸の任意の糸条断面を光学顕微鏡で観察したときに、断面積の異なる複数種の構成フィラメント糸が観察されるものをいう。
【００１０】
本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸における残留捲縮率、ヤング率、引張り強さ及び伸び率は、それぞれ前記範囲、好ましくは、残留捲縮率が３．０〜１２．０％、ヤング率が４．０〜６．０Ｎ／ｍｍ２、引張り強さが０．８〜２．３ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ及び伸び率が２５〜４０％である。すなわち、本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸は、残留捲縮率、ヤング率、引張り強さ及び伸び率が前記範囲にあることで、光沢感とフクラミ感を有するとともに、柔らかさを織編物に付与可能で、かつ後工程通過性が良好となるものである。
【００１１】
ポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸の残留捲縮率が２％未満になると、捲縮が小さくなるためにフクラミ感がなくなり、織編物がペーパーライクとなり、１５％を超えると、捲縮による光の乱反射が強くなり光沢感が損なわれてしまう。また、ヤング率が３．０Ｎ／ｍｍ２未満になると、仮撚加工糸が柔らかくなりすぎて所謂コシのない織編物となり、７．０Ｎ／ｍｍ２を超えると、柔らかさが不十分な織編物となる。引張り強さが０．６ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ未満になると、後工程通過時に糸切れ等が発生し易くなるとともに、織編物の強力に問題が発生し、２．５ｃＮ／ｄＴｅｘを超えると、単繊維の太部と細部の構造差が小さくなり、斑感が不十分になるとともに、風合いも粗硬となる。また、伸び率が２０％未満となると、単繊維の太部と細部の構造差が小さくなり、斑感が不十分になるとともに、風合いも粗硬となり、伸び率が５０％を超えると、後工程通過性が不良となるとともに織編物としたときに寸法安定性等に問題が発生する。
【００１２】
本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸は、残留捲縮率が２．０〜１５．０％であることにより、織編物としたときに捲縮による光沢感を与えるが、スポーツ衣料やファッション衣料として使用する織編物として、より好ましい光沢感を与えるためには、光沢度が４以上であることが好ましい。
【００１３】
本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸を構成するポリエステル単繊維は、本発明の目的の範囲であれば、単繊維を構成するポリエステルに酸化チタン、導電性物質、酸化防止剤、耐候剤、帯電防止剤等の他成分が含有されていてもよく、また単繊維を構成するポリエステルが共重合成分を含有する共重合ポリエステルであってもよい。また、構成単繊維の断面形状も特に限定されるものではなく、多角形断面、多葉型断面、扁平断面、中空断面等のいずれであってもよく、更に構成単繊維は、サイドバイサイド型や芯鞘型等に複合紡糸されたものでもよく、目的とする織編物の風合いや光沢感等を考慮して決定すればよい。
【００１４】
本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸は、単独で仮撚加工糸の形態のまま或いは撚糸の形態で使用してもよいし、また、他繊維との合撚糸として使用してもよい。
【００１５】
次に、本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸の製造方法について説明する。本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸は、糸長手方向に太部と細部が形成された単繊維からなるポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を、仮撚加撚域に供給し、加工糸繊度当たりの仮撚加撚張力が０．０５〜０．２５ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ、仮撚セット温度がＴｇ＋２０℃〜Ｔｇ＋７０℃（但し、Ｔｇはポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸のガラス転移点（℃）である）の条件下で仮撚捲縮加工を施すことによって得られる。
【００１６】
本発明の製造方法において、糸長手方向に太部と細部が形成された単繊維からなるポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を仮撚加工する際、仮撚加撚張力及び仮撚セット温度が光沢感、フクラミ感、斑感及び柔らかさに重大な影響を与える製造条件であり、前記条件下で仮撚捲縮加工を施すことで、糸長手方向に太部と細部を形成した単繊維からなるポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を適正な捲縮形態並びに糸物性にすることが可能となる。
【００１７】
本発明の製造方法における仮撚加撚張力は、加工糸繊度当たりの仮撚加撚張力が、前記範囲、好ましくは０．０８〜０．１８ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘであり、仮撚加撚張力が０．０５ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ未満となると、仮撚施撚体上部のバルーニング大きくなり加工性が不安定となり、糸切れが発生し、０．２５ｃＮ／ｄＴｅｘを超えると、仮撚加撚域に供給された太部と細部が形成された単繊維からなるポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸が一様に延伸されてしまうため、斑感が消失してしまう。
【００１８】
本発明の製造方法における仮撚セット温度は、前記範囲、好ましくはＴｇ＋３０℃〜Ｔｇ＋６０℃であり、仮撚セット温度がＴｇ＋２０℃未満となると、ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸の熱可塑化が不十分で仮撚捲縮が賦与できず、得られる仮撚加工糸に捲縮が殆どなく、織編物としたときにペーパーライクなものとなり、Ｔｇ＋７０℃を超えると、熱可塑化に伴う分子構造変化により光沢感が消失してしまうとともに、低張力化で延伸され易くなり、太部と細部が形成された単繊維からなるポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸が延伸されてしまい、斑感が消失してしまう。
【００１９】
なお、本発明の製造方法において、仮撚数は、目的とする仮撚加工糸の性能に応じて設定すればよいが、光沢感やフクラミ感を考慮すると、１５０００〜４００００／Ｄ１／２・Ｔ／ｍであることが好ましい。また、本発明の製造方法において、仮撚方法は、特に限定されず、ピン方式、摩擦方式、エア旋回流方式等の公知の方法を採用することができる。また、仮撚トルクの低減による後工程通過性等の目的に応じて、仮撚後に第２ヒーターを用いて熱セットを行なうことも可能である。
【００２０】
本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸を含む織編物は、その混率並びに織編物組織を、目的の風合いや製品外観が得られる範囲で決定すればよく、本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸単独からなる織編物、又は本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸と他繊維との合撚糸からなる織編物、或いは本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸を織編物の一部に用いた織編物でもよく、本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸の効果が得られる範囲内で種々の織編物を得ることが可能である。
【００２１】
【実施例】
以下、本発明を実施例により具体的に説明する。なお、本発明による各物性は次の方法で求めた。
【００２２】
（１）残留捲縮率：
ＪＩＳ Ｌ−１０１５に準拠して測定した。
【００２３】
（２）ヤング率、引張り強さ、伸び率：
ＪＩＳ Ｌ−１０１３に準拠して測定した。
【００２４】
（３）光沢度：
光沢計（日本電色（株）製ＰＧ−１Ｍ）を用いて、ＪＩＳ Ｌ−１０１３に準拠して光沢度測定用試料を作成し、６０度鏡面反射法にて測定を行なった。
【００２５】
（４）風合い、斑感：
得られた加工糸を用い、２０ゲージの一口通編み機で製編し、この編地を常法により精練（７０℃、１５分）し、次いで、分散染料を用いて染色（１２０℃、３０分）を行った。その後、ハンドリング並びに目視判定による評価を行なった。
【００２６】
（実施例１）
構成単繊維間で太部と細部がランダムに形成されたポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸（１１０ｄｔｅｘ／３６フィラメント、Ｔｇ：７４．１℃）を用いて、三菱重工業（株）製ＬＳ−６加工機で、加工速度１００ｍ／分、仮撚オーバーフィード率−６％、仮撚セット温度１２０℃、仮撚数１８００Ｔ／ｍ、巻き取り速度９７ｍ／分、仮撚加撚時の張力０．１４ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘにて仮撚捲縮加工を行い、仮撚加工糸を得た。
【００２７】
得られた仮撚加工糸は、残留捲縮率６．４％、ヤング率５．１Ｎ／ｍｍ２、引張り強さ１．０４ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ、伸び率３４．７％、光沢度７．２であった。得られた仮撚加工糸を用いて風合い及び斑感を評価した結果、製編時に特に問題なく、また得られた編地は、光沢感とフクラミ感を有するとともに、特に自然な斑感と柔らかさを有するものであった。
【００２８】
（実施例２）
構成単繊維間で太部と細部がランダムに形成されたポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸（７８ｄｔｅｘ／３６フィラメント、Ｔｇ：７６．３℃）を用いて、三菱重工業（株）製ＬＳ−６加工機で、加工速度１００ｍ／分、仮撚オーバーフィード率−８％、仮撚セット温度１２０℃、仮撚数２０００Ｔ／ｍ、巻き取り速度９６ｍ／分、仮撚加撚時の張力０．１６ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘにて仮撚捲縮加工を行い、仮撚加工糸を得た。
【００２９】
得られた仮撚加工糸は、残留捲縮率３．６％、ヤング率５．７Ｎ／ｍｍ２、引張り強さ１．２５ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ、伸び率３５．２％、光沢度４．７であった。得られた仮撚加工糸を用いて風合い及び斑感を評価した結果、製編時に特に問題なく、また得られた編地は、光沢感とフクラミ感を有するとともに、特に自然な斑感と柔らかさを有するものであった。
【００３０】
（比較例１）
構成単繊維に太部と細部がなくストレートなポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸（５６ｄｔｅｘ／２４フィラメント、Ｔｇ：７６．３℃）を用いて、実施例1と同様に、加工速度１００ｍ／分、仮撚オーバーフィード率２．５％、仮撚セット温度１２０℃、仮撚数２５００Ｔ／ｍ、巻き取り速度９６ｍ／分、仮撚加撚時の張力０．１３ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘにて仮撚加工を行い、仮撚加工糸を得た。得られた仮撚加工糸は、ヤング率１０．４Ｎ／ｍｍ２で、糸長手方向に太部と細部が形成されていないために、風合い及び斑感評価では、風合いが硬く、斑感のないものであった
【００３１】
（比較例２）
仮撚オーバーフィード率を−１％、仮撚加撚時の張力を０．０３ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘにする以外は、実施例１と同様の条件で仮撚加工を行ったところ、仮撚施撚体上部でのバルーニングが大きくなり、仮撚加工が困難であった。
【００３２】
（比較例３）
仮撚オーバーフィード率を−１４％、仮撚加撚時の張力を０．３０ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘにする以外は、実施例１と同様の条件で仮撚加工を行い、仮撚加工糸を得た。得られた仮撚加工糸を用いた編地の風合い及び斑感評価は、フラットでフクラミ感がなく、また斑感が殆どないものであった。
【００３３】
（比較例４）
仮撚オーバーフィード率を−２％、仮撚セット温度を８０℃とする以外は、実施例１と同様の条件で仮撚加工を行い、仮撚加工糸を得た。得られた仮撚加工糸は、残留捲縮率が０．８％で殆ど仮撚捲縮がなく、また伸び率は６３．９％と高く、風合い及び斑感評価を実施したところ、光沢感はあるもののフクラミ感がなくペーパーライクな風合いとなった。また、得られた編地は、これを引っ張るとたやすく伸びてしまい、実用に耐えないものであった。
【００３４】
（比較例５）
仮撚オーバーフィード率を−４％、仮撚セット温度を１７０℃とする以外は、実施例１と同様の条件で仮撚加工を行い、仮撚加工糸を得た。得られた仮撚加工糸は、引張り強さが０．４８ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ、伸び率が６．８％と低く、製編が困難であり、実用上問題のあるものとなった。
【００３５】
【発明の効果】
本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント仮撚加工糸は、従来の仮撚加工糸にはない、光沢感とフクラミ感を有するとともに、特に自然な斑感と柔らかさを織編物に付与可能で、かつ後工程通過性が良好なるものであり、またその仮撚加工糸によった織編物は、光沢感とフクラミ感とともに、特に自然な斑感と柔らかさを有するものであり、本発明の仮撚加工糸或いはその織編物は、スポーツ衣料やファッション衣料等の素材糸或いは素材布帛として有用なるものである。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a polyester multifilament false-twisted yarn having glossiness and fluffy feeling, and capable of imparting natural patchiness and softness to a woven or knitted fabric, a method for producing the same, and a woven / knitted fabric including the false-twisted yarn.
[0002]
[Prior art]
In sports clothing and fashion clothing, materials having a glossy and flaming feeling are required. Conventionally, thermoplastic synthetic multifilament yarns such as polyester fibers are temporarily used at low temperatures and / or at low twists. Crimped yarn obtained by twisting has been generally used.
[0003]
Further, for needs that require further improvement in glossiness, for example, a crimped yarn obtained by false twisting a modified cross-section yarn under a low temperature and low twist number condition is proposed (Patent Documents 1 and 2). See). However, the false-twisted yarn of the irregular cross-section yarn has a good gloss feeling due to the effect of the irregular cross-section, but the yarn as a whole is bent and hard, and the false twist crimp is given. Regardless, the soft feeling was insufficient when woven or knitted. In addition, the consumer needs have been diversified recently, and not only the conventional glossiness but also a new surface effect is desired.
[0004]
[Patent Document 1]
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 51-11947 [Patent Document 2]
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 63-243346
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
An object of the present invention is to solve the problems in the prior art, have a glossy feeling and a fluffy feeling, and can give a natural mottling feeling and softness to a woven or knitted fabric, and has good post-processability. It is an object of the present invention to provide a filament false twisted yarn, and to provide a woven or knitted fabric having natural luster and softness as well as glossiness and fluffiness with the false twist yarn.
[0006]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The gist of the first invention of the present invention is a false twisted yarn formed by false twisting a polyester multifilament yarn made of a polyester monofilament having a thick portion and details formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. ) To the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn characterized by satisfying the requirements of (4),
(1) Residual crimp rate: 2.0 to 15.0%
(2) Young's modulus: 3.0 to 7.0 N / mm 2
(3) Tensile strength: 0.6 to 2.5 cN / dtex
(4) Elongation rate: 20-50%
The gist of the second invention is that a polyester multifilament yarn made of a single fiber having a thick portion and details formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn is supplied to a false twisting region, and the false twisting tension per processed yarn fineness is False twist crimping is performed under conditions of 0.05 to 0.25 cN / dtex and false twist setting temperature of Tg + 20 ° C. to Tg + 70 ° C. (where Tg is the glass transition point (° C.) of the polyester multifilament yarn). The third aspect of the invention resides in a knitted or knitted fabric including the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn.
[0007]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The polyester multifilament false-twisted yarn of the present invention comprises a polyester single fiber having a thick portion and details formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and has the following requirements (1) to (4).
(1) Residual crimp rate: 2.0 to 15.0%
(2) Young's modulus: 3.0 to 7.0 N / mm 2
(3) Tensile strength: 0.6 to 2.5 cN / dtex
(4) Elongation rate: 20-50%
[0008]
The polyester single fiber constituting the polyester multifilament false-twisted yarn of the present invention has thick portions and details formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, so that the thick portions are dyed dark and the details are lightly colored. It is possible to give a spot effect due to different colors. In addition, the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention has a change in thickness compared to a straight normal polyester multifilament yarn that does not change in thickness, so that the yarn is easily bent, resulting in a woven or knitted fabric. Sometimes it becomes possible to give a soft texture. Furthermore, since the twisting effect in false twisting to untwisting is generally concentrated in the details, the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention has a different crimped form in the thick portion and details in each single fiber, It is possible to impart the feeling and the softness of the yarn more effectively.
[0009]
In the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention, the formation state of the thick part and the detail of the single fiber is not particularly limited, but the thick part and the detail are randomly changed between the constituent single fibers. It is preferable that a more natural spot feeling can be imparted. In addition, the formation positions of the thick part and the details are randomly changed between the constituent single fibers, respectively, when an arbitrary cross section of the false twisted yarn is observed with an optical microscope. The filament yarn is observed.
[0010]
The residual crimp rate, Young's modulus, tensile strength, and elongation rate of the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention are each in the above ranges, preferably the residual crimp rate is 3.0 to 12.0%, Young's modulus Is 4.0 to 6.0 N / mm 2 , tensile strength is 0.8 to 2.3 cN / dtex, and elongation is 25 to 40%. That is, the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention has a residual crimp ratio, Young's modulus, tensile strength, and elongation ratio within the above ranges, so that it has a glossy feeling and a flaming feeling, and has a soft and woven fabric. And the post-process passability is improved.
[0011]
When the residual crimp rate of the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn is less than 2%, the crimp is reduced, so there is no fluffiness, and the woven or knitted fabric becomes paper-like. Becomes stronger and the glossiness is impaired. Further, when the Young's modulus is less than 3.0 N / mm 2 , the false twisted yarn becomes too soft and becomes a so-called knitted or knitted fabric, and when it exceeds 7.0 N / mm 2 , the woven or knitted fabric with insufficient softness. It becomes. When the tensile strength is less than 0.6 cN / dtex, yarn breakage or the like is likely to occur during the subsequent process, and a problem occurs in the strength of the woven or knitted fabric. When the tensile strength exceeds 2.5 cN / dTex, The structural difference between the part and the detail becomes small, the feeling of spots becomes insufficient, and the texture becomes rough. Further, when the elongation is less than 20%, the structural difference between the thick portion and the details of the single fiber is reduced, the texture is insufficient, and the texture becomes coarse, and when the elongation exceeds 50%, The process passability becomes poor and a problem arises in dimensional stability and the like when a woven or knitted fabric is obtained.
[0012]
The polyester multifilament false-twisted yarn of the present invention has a residual crimp ratio of 2.0 to 15.0%, and gives glossiness due to crimp when used as a woven or knitted fabric. As a woven or knitted fabric to be used, it is preferable that the glossiness is 4 or more in order to give a more preferable gloss feeling.
[0013]
If the polyester single fiber constituting the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention is within the range of the object of the present invention, the polyester constituting the single fiber is coated with titanium oxide, a conductive substance, an antioxidant, a weathering agent, a charge. Other components such as an inhibitor may be contained, and the polyester constituting the single fiber may be a copolymerized polyester containing a copolymer component. In addition, the cross-sectional shape of the constituent single fiber is not particularly limited, and may be any of a polygonal cross section, a multi-leaf type cross section, a flat cross section, a hollow cross section, and the like. It may be a composite spun into a sheath type or the like, and may be determined in consideration of the texture and glossiness of the target woven or knitted fabric.
[0014]
The polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention may be used alone in the form of false twisted yarn or in the form of twisted yarn, or may be used as a twisted yarn with other fibers.
[0015]
Next, the manufacturing method of the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of this invention is demonstrated. The polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention supplies a polyester multifilament yarn made of single fibers having a thick portion and details formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn to a false twist twisted region, and false twist per processed yarn fineness. False twisting under conditions of twisting tension of 0.05 to 0.25 cN / dtex and false twist setting temperature of Tg + 20 ° C. to Tg + 70 ° C. (where Tg is the glass transition point (° C.) of the polyester multifilament yarn) Obtained by shrinking.
[0016]
In the production method of the present invention, when false twisting a polyester multifilament yarn made of a single fiber having a thick portion and details formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, the false twisting tension and false twisting set temperature are glossy and flaky. Polyester multifilament yarn consisting of monofilaments with thick parts and details formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn by applying false twist crimping under the above conditions, which is a production condition that has a significant effect on mottle and softness Can be made into an appropriate crimped form and yarn physical properties.
[0017]
In the production method of the present invention, the false twist twist tension per work yarn fineness is in the above range, preferably 0.08 to 0.18 cN / dtex, and false twist twist tension is 0.00. If it is less than 05 cN / dtex, the ballooning of the upper part of the false twisted twisted body becomes large, the workability becomes unstable, and thread breakage occurs. If it exceeds 0.25 cN / dTex, the thick part supplied to the false twist twisted region Since the polyester multifilament yarn made of a single fiber in which details are formed is uniformly drawn, the sensation disappears.
[0018]
The false twist setting temperature in the production method of the present invention is in the above-mentioned range, preferably Tg + 30 ° C. to Tg + 60 ° C. When the false twist setting temperature is less than Tg + 20 ° C., the polyester multifilament yarn is insufficiently thermoplasticized and false twisted. No crimps can be imparted, the resulting false twisted yarn has almost no crimps, and becomes a paper-like when made into a woven or knitted fabric. When Tg + 70 ° C. is exceeded, glossiness is caused by changes in the molecular structure accompanying thermoplasticization. In addition to disappearing, it becomes easy to be stretched at a low tension, and the polyester multifilament yarn made of a single fiber in which a thick portion and details are formed is stretched.
[0019]
In the production method of the present invention, the number of false twists may be set in accordance with the performance of the target false twisted yarn, but considering glossiness and squeaky feeling, 15000-40000 / D 1/2. T / m is preferable. In the production method of the present invention, the false twisting method is not particularly limited, and a known method such as a pin method, a friction method, or an air swirl flow method can be employed. Moreover, it is also possible to heat-set using a 2nd heater after false twisting according to the objectives, such as post-process passage property by reduction of false twisting torque.
[0020]
The knitted or knitted fabric containing the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention may be determined in a range in which the blend ratio and the woven or knitted fabric can be obtained in the range where the desired texture and product appearance can be obtained. A woven or knitted fabric composed of a single piece, a woven or knitted fabric composed of a twisted yarn of the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention and another fiber, or a woven fabric using the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention as a part of the woven or knitted fabric. A knitted fabric may be used, and various woven or knitted fabrics can be obtained within a range in which the effect of the polyester multifilament false twisted yarn of the present invention can be obtained.
[0021]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples. In addition, each physical property by this invention was calculated | required with the following method.
[0022]
(1) Residual crimp rate:
It measured based on JIS L-1015.
[0023]
(2) Young's modulus, tensile strength, elongation:
It measured based on JIS L-1013.
[0024]
(3) Glossiness:
Using a gloss meter (Nippon Denshoku Co., Ltd. PG-1M), a sample for glossiness measurement was prepared according to JIS L-1013, and measurement was performed by a 60-degree specular reflection method.
[0025]
(4) Texture, mottled feeling:
Using the obtained processed yarn, knitting with a 20 gauge single-pitch knitting machine, this knitted fabric is scoured by a conventional method (70 ° C., 15 minutes), and then dyed with a disperse dye (120 ° C., 30 minutes) ) Then, evaluation by handling and visual determination was performed.
[0026]
Example 1
Using polyester multifilament yarn (110 dtex / 36 filament, Tg: 74.1 ° C.) in which thick parts and details are randomly formed between constituent single fibers, processed by LS-6 processing machine manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd. Temporary 100m / min, false twist overfeed rate -6%, false twist set temperature 120 ° C, false twist number 1800T / m, take-up speed 97m / minute, false twist twisting tension 0.14cN / dtex Twist crimping was performed to obtain false twisted yarn.
[0027]
The obtained false twisted yarn had a residual crimp rate of 6.4%, a Young's modulus of 5.1 N / mm 2 , a tensile strength of 1.04 cN / dtex, an elongation of 34.7%, and a glossiness of 7.2. It was. As a result of evaluating the texture and mottle feeling using the obtained false twisted yarn, there was no particular problem during knitting, and the obtained knitted fabric had glossiness and squeaky feeling, and particularly natural mottleness and softness. It was something that had a thickness.
[0028]
(Example 2)
Using a polyester multifilament yarn (78 dtex / 36 filament, Tg: 76.3 ° C.) in which thick parts and details are randomly formed between constituent single fibers, processed with an LS-6 processing machine manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd. Temporary twist at overfeed rate of -8%, false twist set temperature of 120 ° C, false twist number of 2000T / m, winding speed of 96m / minute, tension during false twist twist of 0.16cN / dtex Twist crimping was performed to obtain false twisted yarn.
[0029]
The obtained false twisted yarn had a residual crimp rate of 3.6%, a Young's modulus of 5.7 N / mm 2 , a tensile strength of 1.25 cN / dtex, an elongation of 35.2%, and a glossiness of 4.7. It was. As a result of evaluating the texture and mottle feeling using the obtained false twisted yarn, there was no particular problem during knitting, and the obtained knitted fabric had glossiness and squeaky feeling, and particularly natural mottleness and softness. It was something that had a thickness.
[0030]
(Comparative Example 1)
Using a straight polyester multifilament yarn (56 dtex / 24 filament, Tg: 76.3 ° C.) that has no thick part and no details in the constituent single fiber, a processing speed of 100 m / min, false twist overfeed, as in Example 1. False twisting at a rate of 2.5%, false twist set temperature of 120 ° C., false twist number of 2500 T / m, take-up speed of 96 m / min, tension during false twist twist of 0.13 cN / dtex I got a thread. The obtained false twisted yarn has a Young's modulus of 10.4 N / mm 2 and no thick portions and details are formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. It was a thing 【0031】
(Comparative Example 2)
When the false twisting was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the false twist overfeed rate was -1% and the tension during false twist was 0.03 cN / dtex, Ballooning at the time became large, and false twisting was difficult.
[0032]
(Comparative Example 3)
False twisting was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the false twist overfeed rate was -14% and the tension during false twist was 0.30 cN / dtex, and false twisted yarn was obtained. The texture and evaluation of the knitted fabric using the false twisted yarn obtained were flat and had no scouring feeling and little sensation.
[0033]
(Comparative Example 4)
False twisting was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the false twist overfeed rate was -2% and the false twist setting temperature was 80 ° C. to obtain false twisted yarn. The obtained false twisted yarn had a residual crimp rate of 0.8% and almost no false twist crimp, and the elongation rate was as high as 63.9%. Although there was no fluffy feeling, there was a paper-like texture. Further, the obtained knitted fabric was easily stretched when pulled, and could not withstand practical use.
[0034]
(Comparative Example 5)
False twisting was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the false twist overfeed rate was −4% and the false twist setting temperature was 170 ° C. to obtain false twisted yarn. The obtained false twisted yarn had a tensile strength of 0.48 cN / dtex and an elongation rate as low as 6.8%, making it difficult to knit and causing problems in practical use.
[0035]
【The invention's effect】
The polyester multifilament false-twisted yarn of the present invention has glossiness and squeakiness that are not found in conventional false-twisted yarns, and is particularly capable of imparting natural spots and softness to woven and knitted fabrics, and a post-process. The knitted or knitted fabric using the false twisted yarn has good natural feeling and softness as well as glossiness and fluffiness, and the false twisted yarn of the present invention. Alternatively, the knitted or knitted fabric is useful as a material yarn or a material fabric for sports clothing, fashion clothing, or the like.
Claims (5)
（１）残留捲縮率：２．０〜１５．０％
（２）ヤング率 ：３．０〜７．０Ｎ／ｍｍ２
（３）引張り強さ：０．６〜２．５ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ
（４）伸び率 ：２０〜５０％A false twisted yarn obtained by false twisting a polyester multifilament yarn made of a polyester single fiber having a thick portion and details formed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and satisfying the following requirements (1) to (4) Polyester multifilament false twisted yarn characterized by
(1) Residual crimp rate: 2.0 to 15.0%
(2) Young's modulus: 3.0 to 7.0 N / mm 2
(3) Tensile strength: 0.6 to 2.5 cN / dtex
(4) Elongation rate: 20-50%
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| JP2003087056A JP4209232B2 (en) | 2003-03-27 | 2003-03-27 | Polyester multifilament false twisted yarn, method for producing the same, and woven or knitted fabric containing the false twisted yarn |
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| EXPY | Cancellation because of completion of term |