JP3614511B2 - Oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic for sunscreen - Google Patents

Oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic for sunscreen Download PDF

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JP3614511B2
JP3614511B2 JP14812195A JP14812195A JP3614511B2 JP 3614511 B2 JP3614511 B2 JP 3614511B2 JP 14812195 A JP14812195 A JP 14812195A JP 14812195 A JP14812195 A JP 14812195A JP 3614511 B2 JP3614511 B2 JP 3614511B2
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oil
sunscreen
fatty acid
emulsified cosmetic
water emulsified
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JPH08310941A (en
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光一 植田
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Noevir Co Ltd
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Noevir Co Ltd
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Description

【0001】
【産業上の利用分野】
本発明は、親水性の界面活性剤を含有せず、弱酸性で且つ皮膚に対して安全で、良好な使用感を有し、さらに耐水性が高く、化粧持続性の高い日焼け止め用水中油型乳化化粧料に関する。さらに詳細には、(A)高級脂肪酸、(B)高級アルコール及び(C)脂肪酸モノグリセリド,モノアルキルグリセリルエーテル及びモノアルケニルグリセリルエーテルより選択した1種又は2種以上を特定の重量比で配合し、さらに(D)紫外線吸収剤及び/又は(E)酸化チタン,酸化亜鉛及び酸化ジルコニウムより選択した1種又は2種以上を配合して成り、他に親水性の界面活性剤を配合しない日焼け止め用水中油型乳化化粧料を提供するものである。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
従来より、紫外線による皮膚の炎症を防止するため、日焼け防止用の化粧料が多く提供されてきた。その中でも、乳液やクリーム等乳化型の剤形がよく用いられる。特に、水中油型乳化化粧料は、しっとりして且つべたつかない使用感を有し、日焼け止め用化粧料として好ましい。かかる水中油型乳化組成物は、通常脂肪酸セッケンや種々の親水性界面活性剤により安定に調製される。また近年は、皮膚に対して温和な乳化組成物を得るため、皮膚表面のpHに近い弱酸性のものが好まれる傾向も認められる。
【0003】
しかしながら、脂肪酸セッケンを用いた場合は弱酸性の乳化組成物は得られず、一方、界面活性剤の皮膚に対する刺激性や眼粘膜刺激性が問題となっている。そこで、なるべくそれらの配合量を低減する試みがなされており、HLB値の異なる界面活性剤を少量ずつ組み合わせたり、高級アルコール等の乳化助剤を配合したり、一般的な界面活性剤ではないが、両親媒性を有する物質を補助的に添加したりする方法が検討されている。特開平5−262619においては、炭素数18以上の高級アルコールを2種組み合わせて配合し、特開昭53−113787,特開昭55−59106,特開昭56−154408及び特開平4−15289においては、α−モノアルキルグリセリルエーテルや他のα,β位にヒドロキシル基を有するジオール化合物といった両親媒性物質を、長鎖アシル酸性アミノ酸或いはその塩,高級脂肪酸塩や親水性界面活性剤等と組み合わせて配合している。
【0004】
高級アルコールは水中油型乳化組成物の連続相中に界面活性剤とともにラメラ型液晶又はゲル構造を形成し、分散された油滴を安定化するが、この乳化安定化においては、界面活性剤の存在が不可欠である。また上記の発明で用いられているモノアルキルグリセリルエーテルは、両親媒性物質ではあるが親油性が強く、これのみでは十分な界面活性を有さず、他の界面活性剤と組み合わせて、乳化助剤的に使用されているのが現状であった。さらに高級アルコールを併用しても、油滴を十分分散安定化することができなかった。モノアルキルグリセリルエーテルとして、α−モノ(メチル分岐アルキル)グリセリルエーテルといった特殊な分岐グリセリルエーテルを用いて乳化組成物を調製する試みがなされている(特開昭56−39033)に過ぎない。
【0005】
また、日焼け止め用化粧料は、主として高温,高湿となる夏季に戸外で使用されるため、汗や水に対して落ちにくいという耐水性が特に要求される。しかしながら、親水性界面活性剤を使用した水中油型乳化化粧料においては、十分な耐水性を得ることはできなかった。水不溶性のシリコーン樹脂等の皮膜形成剤を配合することにより、生成される化粧皮膜の耐水性向上を図る試みもなされているが、この場合皮膜感が強く、自然な仕上がりが得られにくい。一方、油中水型の乳化系とすることにより耐水性は改善されるが、逆に伸びが重く、べたつきのある使用感となり、経時的な安定性を確保することも困難であった。
【0006】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
従って本発明は、上記したような従来の日焼け止め用の乳化化粧料における問題点を解決し、親水性の界面活性剤を配合しなくても優れた保存安定性を有し、しかも弱酸性で皮膚に対する刺激性が低く、さらに良好な外観及び使用感と十分な紫外線吸収効果及び化粧持続性を有する日焼け止め用水中油型乳化化粧料を提供しようとするものである。
【0007】
【課題を解決するための手段】
上記の課題を解決するため種々検討を行った結果、本発明者らは、従来より用いられる脂肪酸モノグリセリド,モノアルキルグリセリルエーテル及びモノアルケニルグリセリルエーテルより選択した1種又は2種以上と、高級脂肪酸及び高級アルコールとを一定範囲の重量比で組み合わせて配合して成る基剤中に、紫外線吸収剤や酸化チタン,酸化亜鉛,酸化ジルコニウム等の紫外線散乱剤を配合することにより、一般的な親水性界面活性剤を用いなくても安定な弱酸性の日焼け止め用の水中油型乳化化粧料が得られることを見い出し、本発明を完成させるに至った。
【0008】
すなわち、本発明においては(A)高級脂肪酸、(B)高級アルコール、(C)脂肪酸モノグリセリド,モノアルキルグリセリルエーテル及びモノアルケニルグリセリルエーテルの1種又は2種以上、(D)紫外線吸収剤及び/又は(E)酸化チタン,酸化亜鉛及び酸化ジルコニウムより選択した1種又は2種以上を必須成分とし、これに水及び油を加えて日焼け止め用の水中油型乳化化粧料とする。
【0009】
(A)の高級脂肪酸としては、ウンデシル酸,ラウリン酸,トリデシル酸,ミリスチン酸,ペンタデシル酸,パルミチン酸,ヘプタデシル酸,ステアリン酸,ノナデカン酸,アラキン酸,ベヘン酸といった直鎖飽和脂肪酸、ウンデシレン酸,オレイン酸,エライジン酸,セトレイン酸,エルカ酸,リノール酸,リノレン酸といった直鎖不飽和脂肪酸、イソミリスチン酸,イソパルミチン酸,イソステアリン酸等の分岐鎖を有する脂肪酸、12−ヒドロキシ脂肪酸等の炭化水素鎖以外の置換基を有するもの、ラノリン脂肪酸のような高級脂肪酸の混合物などが挙げられるが、特に炭素数11〜22のものが好ましい。
【0010】
(B)の高級アルコールとしては、ラウリルアルコール,トリデシルアルコール,ミリスチルアルコール,ペンタデシルアルコール,セチルアルコール,ヘプタデシルアルコール,ステアリルアルコールといった直鎖脂肪族飽和アルコール、オレイルアルコール,リノレイルアルコール,リノレニルアルコールといった直鎖不飽和脂肪族アルコール、ヘキシルドデカノール,イソステアリルアルコール,オクチルドデカノール等の分岐鎖脂肪族アルコール、セトステアリルアルコール,ラノリンアルコール等の脂肪族高級アルコールの混合物などが挙げられ、特に炭素数12〜22の脂肪族炭化水素鎖を有するものが好ましい。
【0011】
(C)の脂肪酸モノグリセリドとしては、モノミリスチン酸グリセリル,モノパルミチン酸グリセリル,モノステアリン酸グリセリル,モノイソステアリン酸グリセリル,モノオレイン酸グリセリル等が、モノアルキルグリセリルエーテルとしては、モノパルミチルグリセリルエーテル(キミルアルコール),モノステアリルグリセリルエーテル(バチルアルコール)等が、モノアルケニルグリセリルエーテルとしては、モノオレイルグリセリルエーテル(セラキルアルコール)等が挙げられる。
【0012】
安定な水中油型乳化化粧料を得る上で適切な上記各成分の組成は、図1において斜線を付した領域の範囲内にある。(A),(B)及び(C)の配合比は、それぞれこれらの総量のほぼ5.3〜45.1重量%、24.7〜80.7重量%、及び10.0〜50.0重量%が適切である。また、(A)/(B)の重量比が0.1〜1.0で、且つ(A)及び(B)の合計量と(C)との重量比[(A)+(B)]/(C)が1〜10であることが特に好ましい。
【0013】
(D)の紫外線吸収剤としては、パラアミノ安息香酸エチル,パラジメチルアミノ安息香酸エチルヘキシル等のパラアミノ安息香酸エステル類、シノキサート,パラメトキシ桂皮酸エチルヘキシル等のパラメトキシ桂皮酸エステル類といった中波長域紫外線(UVB)吸収剤、4−t−ブチル−4’−メトキシジベンゾイルメタン等のジベンゾイルメタン類、2−ヒドロキシ−4−メトキシベンゾフェノン等のオキシベンゾン類といった長波長域紫外線(UVA)吸収剤を用いることができる。
【0014】
さらに(E)成分として、酸化チタン,酸化亜鉛,酸化ジルコニウムといった紫外線散乱剤を配合することができる。これら紫外線散乱剤としては、微粒子状のものや疎水化処理等を行ったものも使用できる。なお、(D)及び(E)成分はこれらをそれぞれ単独で用いても、併用してもよい。
【0015】
本発明に係る日焼け止め用水中油型乳化化粧料においては、(A)の高級脂肪酸及び(B)の高級アルコールの他に、スクワラン,流動パラフィン等の炭化水素油、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル,ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル,パルミチン酸イソプロピル等のエステル油、アボカド油,オリーブ油,大豆油,ヒマシ油等の植物油、ミンク油,タートル油等の動物油、ミツロウ,ラノリン等の動物性ロウ類、ホホバ油,カルナウバロウ,キャンデリラロウ等の植物性ロウ類、ジメチルポリシロキサン,メチルフェニルポリシロキサン等のシリコーン油など、化粧料に用いられる一般的な油性原料であれば、特に制限なく使用することができる。
【0016】
また本発明に係る日焼け止め用水中油型乳化化粧料のpHは、クエン酸緩衝液等の緩衝液、水酸化カリウム,水酸化ナトリウム,アルギニン等の塩基性物質、乳酸ナトリウム,ピロリドンカルボン酸ナトリウム等の弱酸と強塩基との塩類などを用いて調整することができる。皮膚に対する刺激性を緩和するには、pHは5.0〜7.0であることが好ましい。
【0017】
さらに本発明に係る日焼け止め用水中油型乳化化粧料には、多価アルコール,糖類,アミノ酸等の保湿剤、ビタミン類,核酸類,動植物抽出物等の生理活性成分、防腐剤、色素等を、必要に応じて配合することもできる。
【0018】
そして本発明に係る日焼け止め用乳化化粧料は、上記の(A),(B),(C),(D)の各成分と、他の油性成分とを混合,加熱して均一とし、これを水溶性成分を溶解させ加熱した水相に攪拌しながら添加し、ホモミキサー等の乳化機で乳化して得ることができる。さらに強力な高圧ホモジナイザーや超音波乳化機を用いることにより、安定性をより向上させることができる。なお、(E)成分については通常は水相に添加し分散させるが、疎水化処理を行ったものを用いる場合は油相に分散させて添加する。
【0019】
【作用】
本発明に係る日焼け止め用水中油型乳化化粧料においては、親水性の界面活性剤を用いないにもかかわらず油性成分を安定に乳化することができ、微細なエマルションが得られる。しかも耐水性が高く、水や汗による流れ落ちに対し抵抗性を示し、優れた化粧持続性を有する。従って、化粧料中に含有される紫外線吸収剤や紫外線散乱性粉体の作用を長時間持続させることができる。また、水中油型乳化化粧料に特有の良好な外観と、伸びの良いさっぱりした清涼感のある使用感が得られ、薄く均一に塗布することができる。さらに、弱酸性であり、pHや界面活性剤に由来する皮膚刺激性や感作性もない。
【0020】
【実施例】
さらに本発明の特徴について、実施例により詳細に説明する。
【0021】
まず、本発明の実施例1及び実施例2に係る日焼け止め用乳液の処方を、比較例1〜比較例3、及び比較例4〜比較例6とともに表1及び表2に示した。表1においては、(7),(8),(10)を70℃に加熱し混合,溶解し、(6)を添加して均一に分散させたものに、あらかじめ混合し、80℃に加熱して均一化した(1)〜(5)を攪拌しながら添加し、70℃においてホモミキサーにて攪拌乳化し、冷却後(9)を添加して調製する。一方表2においては、(6)を油相に分散させ、その他は同様に乳化を行わせて調製する。
【表1】

Figure 0003614511
【表2】
Figure 0003614511
【0022】
実施例1及び実施例2について、pHの測定と乳化状態及び40℃における保存安定性の観察を行った。結果は表3にまとめて示した。
【0023】
【表3】
Figure 0003614511
表3において明らかなように、実施例1及び実施例2の日焼け止め用乳化化粧料は、粒子径1〜10μmの均一で微細なエマルション粒子を有しており、pHは6.2の弱酸性で、40℃で1カ月間保存しても安定であった。これに対し、本発明の構成成分(A)に該当するステアリン酸を含有しない比較例1と、本発明の構成成分(C)に該当するモノステアリン酸グリセリル又はモノステアリルグリセリルエーテルを含有しない比較例2及び比較例5においては、乳化組成物を得ることができなかった。また、本発明の構成成分(A)と構成成分(B)との重量比(A)/(B)が3.0である比較例3、本発明の構成成分(B)に該当するステアリルアルコールを含有しない比較例4、及び本発明の構成成分(A)及び構成成分(B)と構成成分(C)との重量比[(A)+(B)]/(C)が11.7である比較例6においては、乳化組成物は得られるものの、エマルションの粒子径は10μm以上で大きく、さらに不均一であった。そして乳化安定性が悪く、調製した翌日にはクリーミングと油相の分離が見られた。
【0024】
次に、本発明の実施例3及び実施例4に係る日焼け止め用クリームの処方を、比較例7及び比較例8とともにそれぞれ表4及び表5に示した。ここで、比較例7は脂肪酸セッケン及び非イオン性界面活性剤により乳化したものであり、比較例8は親水性の界面活性剤と親油性の界面活性剤を併用して乳化したものである。表4中、(7)〜(9)及び(11)の水相を混合,加熱し、これに(6)の粉体を分散させたものに、混合,加熱した(1)〜(5)の油相を加え、70℃で攪拌乳化して40℃にて(10)の香料を加えて調製する。一方表5においては、(8)を(1)〜(7)の油相に分散させる他は同様に乳化させて調製する。
【表4】
Figure 0003614511
【表5】
Figure 0003614511
【0025】
上記の実施例3及び実施例4の日焼け止め用クリームについて、皮膚刺激性を比較例7及び比較例8とともに評価した。皮膚刺激性は、各試料につき30名のパネラーを用いて48時間のクローズドパッチテストを行い、結果を表6に示す判定基準により評価し、30名の皮膚刺激指数の平均値にて表7に各試料のpH値とともに表した。
【表6】
Figure 0003614511
【0026】
【表7】
Figure 0003614511
表7において明らかなように、本発明の実施例3及び実施例4の化粧クリームはいずれもpHが5.9及び6.0と弱酸性を示し、皮膚刺激指数もそれぞれ0.05及び0.06と非常に低い値であった。これに対し、脂肪酸セッケンと非イオン性界面活性剤を併用して乳化した比較例7は8.4とややアルカリ性を示し、皮膚刺激指数は1.51と弱い刺激性を示した。また、親水性及び親油性の非イオン性界面活性剤を用いて乳化した比較例8については、pHは5.3と弱酸性であったが、2.72と中程度に近い皮膚刺激指数を示し、若干の皮膚刺激性を認めた。
【0027】
次に、本発明に係る日焼け止め用水中油型乳化化粧料の耐水性を評価した。本発明の実施例1〜実施例4と比較例7及び比較例8について、まず背部に2mg/平方cmの割合で20平方cmの部分に塗布してSun Protection Factor(SPF)を測定した。その後隣接する部位に再度これら試料を塗布して十分に乾燥させた後、屋内プールで20分間水泳等の水中運動を行わせ、20分間の休憩をはさんで再び20分間水中運動を行わせ、ついでタオルを使わずに乾燥させた後、再びSPFを測定した。なおSPFは、光源としてキセノンアークソーラーシミュレーターを用い、スキンタイプI〜IIIの成人男子20名を被験者とし、あらかじめ試料未塗布部の最小紅斑量(MED)を求めた後、試料の予想SPF値以上の照射を公比1.3で5段階で行い、試料塗布部のMEDを求め、試料塗布部の値を試料未塗布部の値で除してSPFを算出し、各被験者の平均値により表した。結果を表8に示す。
【0028】
【表8】
Figure 0003614511
表8より、本発明の実施例においてはいずれも良好な耐水性が認められ、水泳等を行った後でも良好なSPF値を示していた。これに対し、比較例7及び比較例8では、水泳等の水中運動により流れてしまい、皮膚上に残存する日焼け止め化粧料が少なくなってしまうため、SPF値は大幅に低下していた。
【0029】
続いて、本発明の実施例に係る日焼け止め用水中油型乳化化粧料の処方を以下に示す。
【0030】
[実施例5] 日焼け止め用乳液(UVB防止用)
Figure 0003614511
製法:(9)〜(11)を(13)に溶解して70℃に加熱し、(8)を添加して均一に分散させた後、これにあらかじめ混合,溶解して80℃に加熱した(1)〜(7)を添加した後、ホモミキサーにて乳化し、冷却して40℃にて(12)を加える。
【0031】
[実施例6] 日焼け止め用乳液(UVA防止用)
Figure 0003614511
製法:(9)〜(11)を(13)に溶解して70℃に加熱し、これにあらかじめ混合,溶解して80℃に加熱した(1)〜(8)を添加した後、ホモミキサーにて乳化し、冷却して40℃にて(12)を加える。
【0032】
[実施例7] 日焼け止め用乳剤型ローション(UVA,UVB防止用)
Figure 0003614511
製法:(12)〜(14)を(15)に溶解して70℃に加熱したものに、あらかじめ混合,溶解して80℃に加熱した(1)〜(9)に(10)を添加,分散したものを加え、ホモミキサーにて乳化し、冷却する。
【0033】
上記の実施例5及び実施例6の日焼け止め用乳液、さらに実施例7の日焼け止め用乳剤型ローションは、いずれも粒子径1〜10μmの均一で細かいエマルション粒子を有しており、5℃及び40℃保存で1カ月間以上安定であった。
【0034】
【発明の効果】
以上詳述したように、本発明により親水性の界面活性剤を用いなくても、安定で良好な日焼け止め用の水中油型乳化化粧料を得ることができた。さらに本発明による日焼け止め用水中油型乳化化粧料は弱酸性であり、皮膚に対する刺激性も極めて低く、耐水性が高く、汗や水に対して良好な抵抗性を示し、高温,多湿となる夏季においても、運動時においても、良好な化粧持続性を示す。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図1】本発明における構成成分(A),(B)及び(C)の適切な組成を示す図である。[0001]
[Industrial application fields]
The present invention does not contain a hydrophilic surfactant, is weakly acidic, safe to the skin, has a good feeling of use, has high water resistance, and has a high makeup durability. It relates to emulsified cosmetics. More specifically, (A) higher fatty acid, (B) higher alcohol and (C) one or more selected from fatty acid monoglycerides, monoalkyl glyceryl ethers and monoalkenyl glyceryl ethers are blended at a specific weight ratio, Further, (D) an ultraviolet absorber and / or (E) one or more selected from titanium oxide, zinc oxide and zirconium oxide, and sunscreen water which does not contain any other hydrophilic surfactant A middle oil emulsified cosmetic is provided.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, many sunscreen cosmetics have been provided to prevent skin irritation caused by ultraviolet rays. Of these, emulsified dosage forms such as emulsions and creams are often used. In particular, oil-in-water emulsified cosmetics have a moist and non-sticky feeling and are preferred as sunscreen cosmetics. Such an oil-in-water emulsified composition is usually stably prepared with a fatty acid soap or various hydrophilic surfactants. In recent years, in order to obtain an emulsified composition that is mild to the skin, a tendency to prefer weakly acidic ones close to the pH of the skin surface is also recognized.
[0003]
However, when a fatty acid soap is used, a weakly acidic emulsified composition cannot be obtained. On the other hand, the skin irritation and ocular mucosal irritation of the surfactant are problematic. Therefore, attempts have been made to reduce their blending amounts as much as possible, and a combination of surfactants having different HLB values are combined little by little, emulsification aids such as higher alcohols are blended, and it is not a general surfactant. In addition, a method of supplementing a substance having amphiphilic properties has been studied. In JP-A-5-262619, two higher alcohols having 18 or more carbon atoms are blended in combination, and in JP-A-53-113787, JP-A-55-59106, JP-A-56-154408 and JP-A-4-15289. Is a combination of an amphiphilic substance such as α-monoalkyl glyceryl ether or other diol compounds having hydroxyl groups at the α and β positions with long chain acyl acidic amino acids or salts thereof, higher fatty acid salts, hydrophilic surfactants, etc. It is blended.
[0004]
The higher alcohol forms a lamellar liquid crystal or gel structure with the surfactant in the continuous phase of the oil-in-water emulsion composition, and stabilizes the dispersed oil droplets. In this emulsion stabilization, Existence is essential. In addition, the monoalkyl glyceryl ether used in the above invention is an amphiphilic substance but has strong lipophilicity, and it alone does not have sufficient surface activity, and in combination with other surfactant, It is currently used as a pharmaceutical. Further, even when a higher alcohol was used in combination, the oil droplets could not be sufficiently dispersed and stabilized. Attempts to prepare an emulsified composition using a special branched glyceryl ether such as α-mono (methyl branched alkyl) glyceryl ether as the monoalkyl glyceryl ether have been made (JP-A-56-39033).
[0005]
Further, since the sunscreen cosmetics are mainly used outdoors in the summer when the temperature and humidity are high, the water resistance is particularly required to be resistant to perspiration and water. However, in an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic using a hydrophilic surfactant, sufficient water resistance cannot be obtained. Attempts have been made to improve the water resistance of the resulting decorative film by blending a film-forming agent such as a water-insoluble silicone resin. However, in this case, the film feel is strong and it is difficult to obtain a natural finish. On the other hand, the water resistance is improved by using a water-in-oil type emulsion system, but on the contrary, the elongation is heavy, the use feeling is sticky, and it is difficult to ensure the stability over time.
[0006]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
Therefore, the present invention solves the problems in the conventional sunscreen emulsified cosmetics as described above, has excellent storage stability without adding a hydrophilic surfactant, and is weakly acidic. An object of the present invention is to provide an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic for sunscreen, which has low skin irritation, and has a good appearance and feeling of use, a sufficient ultraviolet light absorption effect and makeup persistence.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
As a result of various studies to solve the above problems, the present inventors have found that one or more selected from the conventionally used fatty acid monoglycerides, monoalkyl glyceryl ethers and monoalkenyl glyceryl ethers, higher fatty acids and A general hydrophilic interface can be obtained by blending a high-alcohol with a base that is formulated with a certain weight ratio and blending UV absorbers and UV scattering agents such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide and zirconium oxide. It has been found that an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic for sunscreen can be obtained that is stable even without using an activator, and the present invention has been completed.
[0008]
That is, in the present invention, (A) a higher fatty acid, (B) a higher alcohol, (C) one or more of fatty acid monoglycerides, monoalkyl glyceryl ethers and monoalkenyl glyceryl ethers, (D) an ultraviolet absorber and / or (E) One or more selected from titanium oxide, zinc oxide and zirconium oxide are used as essential components, and water and oil are added thereto to form an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic for sunscreen.
[0009]
As the higher fatty acid (A), undecyl acid, lauric acid, tridecyl acid, myristic acid, pentadecylic acid, palmitic acid, heptadecyl acid, stearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, linear saturated fatty acid, undecylenic acid, Linear unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid, elaidic acid, celetic acid, erucic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid, fatty acids having a branched chain such as isomyristic acid, isopalmitic acid, isostearic acid, and hydrocarbons such as 12-hydroxy fatty acid Although what has substituents other than a chain | strand, the mixture of higher fatty acids like a lanolin fatty acid, etc. are mentioned, Especially the thing of carbon numbers 11-22 is preferable.
[0010]
(B) Higher alcohols include linear aliphatic saturated alcohols such as lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, heptadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, and linolenyl. Examples include linear unsaturated aliphatic alcohols such as alcohols, branched chain aliphatic alcohols such as hexyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and octyldodecanol, and mixtures of higher aliphatic alcohols such as cetostearyl alcohol and lanolin alcohol. Those having an aliphatic hydrocarbon chain of several 12 to 22 are preferred.
[0011]
Examples of fatty acid monoglycerides in (C) include glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monooleate, and the like. Monoalkyl glyceryl ethers include monopalmityl glyceryl ether (kimi ) And monostearyl glyceryl ether (batyl alcohol), and monoalkenyl glyceryl ether includes monooleyl glyceryl ether (ceralkyl alcohol).
[0012]
The composition of each component suitable for obtaining a stable oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic is within the range of the hatched area in FIG. The blending ratio of (A), (B) and (C) is approximately 5.3 to 45.1% by weight, 24.7 to 80.7% by weight, and 10.0 to 50.0% of these total amounts, respectively. Weight percent is appropriate. The weight ratio of (A) / (B) is 0.1 to 1.0, and the weight ratio of the total amount of (A) and (B) to (C) [(A) + (B)]. It is particularly preferred that / (C) is 1-10.
[0013]
Examples of the ultraviolet absorber (D) include medium wavelength ultraviolet rays (UVB) such as paraaminobenzoic acid esters such as ethyl paraaminobenzoate and ethylhexyl paradimethylaminobenzoate, and paramethoxycinnamic acid esters such as sinoxate and ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate. Long-wavelength ultraviolet (UVA) absorbers such as absorbers, dibenzoylmethanes such as 4-t-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane, and oxybenzones such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone can be used. .
[0014]
Further, as the component (E), an ultraviolet scattering agent such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, or zirconium oxide can be blended. As these ultraviolet scattering agents, those in the form of fine particles or those subjected to a hydrophobic treatment or the like can also be used. The components (D) and (E) may be used alone or in combination.
[0015]
In the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic for sunscreen according to the present invention, in addition to (A) higher fatty acid and (B) higher alcohol, hydrocarbon oils such as squalane and liquid paraffin, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate , Ester oils such as isopropyl palmitate, vegetable oils such as avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, castor oil, animal oils such as mink oil and turtle oil, animal waxes such as beeswax and lanolin, jojoba oil, carnauba wax, candelilla wax Any conventional oily raw material used in cosmetics, such as vegetable waxes such as dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, can be used without particular limitation.
[0016]
The pH of the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic for sunscreen according to the present invention is such as a buffer solution such as a citrate buffer solution, a basic substance such as potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, arginine, sodium lactate, sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate, etc. It can be adjusted using a salt of a weak acid and a strong base. In order to relieve irritation to the skin, the pH is preferably 5.0 to 7.0.
[0017]
Furthermore, the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic for sunscreen according to the present invention includes a moisturizer such as polyhydric alcohols, sugars, amino acids, physiologically active ingredients such as vitamins, nucleic acids, animal and plant extracts, preservatives, pigments, It can also mix | blend as needed.
[0018]
And the emulsified cosmetic for sunscreen according to the present invention mixes and heats the above components (A), (B), (C), (D) and other oily components to make it uniform. Can be obtained by dissolving a water-soluble component in a heated aqueous phase with stirring and emulsifying with an emulsifier such as a homomixer. Furthermore, stability can be further improved by using a powerful high-pressure homogenizer or ultrasonic emulsifier. The component (E) is usually added and dispersed in the aqueous phase. However, when the hydrophobized component is used, it is dispersed in the oil phase and added.
[0019]
[Action]
In the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic for sunscreen according to the present invention, oily components can be stably emulsified without using a hydrophilic surfactant, and a fine emulsion can be obtained. Moreover, it has high water resistance, exhibits resistance to runoff caused by water and sweat, and has excellent makeup sustainability. Therefore, the action of the ultraviolet absorber and the ultraviolet scattering powder contained in the cosmetic can be maintained for a long time. In addition, a good appearance peculiar to the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic and a refreshing and refreshing feeling with good elongation can be obtained, and it can be applied thinly and uniformly. Furthermore, it is weakly acidic and has no skin irritation or sensitization derived from pH or surfactant.
[0020]
【Example】
Further, the features of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples.
[0021]
First, formulations of sunscreen emulsions according to Example 1 and Example 2 of the present invention are shown in Tables 1 and 2 together with Comparative Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 4 to 6. In Table 1, (7), (8), and (10) are heated to 70 ° C., mixed and dissolved, mixed in advance by adding (6) and heated to 80 ° C. Then, the homogenized (1) to (5) are added with stirring, the mixture is stirred and emulsified with a homomixer at 70 ° C., and after cooling, (9) is added. On the other hand, in Table 2, (6) is dispersed in the oil phase, and the others are prepared by emulsification in the same manner.
[Table 1]
Figure 0003614511
[Table 2]
Figure 0003614511
[0022]
About Example 1 and Example 2, the measurement of pH, the emulsification state, and the storage stability in 40 degreeC were observed. The results are summarized in Table 3.
[0023]
[Table 3]
Figure 0003614511
As can be seen in Table 3, the sunscreen emulsified cosmetics of Examples 1 and 2 have uniform and fine emulsion particles with a particle diameter of 1 to 10 μm, and a weakly acidic pH of 6.2. Thus, it was stable even when stored at 40 ° C. for 1 month. On the other hand, the comparative example 1 which does not contain the stearic acid applicable to the structural component (A) of this invention, and the comparative example which does not contain the glyceryl monostearate or monostearyl glyceryl ether applicable to the structural component (C) of this invention In 2 and Comparative Example 5, an emulsified composition could not be obtained. Moreover, the stearyl alcohol which corresponds to the comparative example 3 whose weight ratio (A) / (B) of the structural component (A) and structural component (B) of this invention is 3.0, and the structural component (B) of this invention And the weight ratio [(A) + (B)] / (C) of the component (A) and the component (B) to the component (C) of the present invention is 11.7. In a certain comparative example 6, although an emulsion composition was obtained, the particle size of the emulsion was large at 10 μm or more and further non-uniform. The emulsion stability was poor, and creaming and separation of the oil phase were observed the next day after preparation.
[0024]
Next, prescriptions of sunscreen creams according to Example 3 and Example 4 of the present invention are shown in Tables 4 and 5 together with Comparative Examples 7 and 8, respectively. Here, Comparative Example 7 was emulsified with a fatty acid soap and a nonionic surfactant, and Comparative Example 8 was emulsified using a hydrophilic surfactant and a lipophilic surfactant in combination. In Table 4, the aqueous phases (7) to (9) and (11) were mixed and heated, and the powder (6) was dispersed and mixed and heated (1) to (5). The oil phase is added, stirred and emulsified at 70 ° C., and the fragrance (10) is added at 40 ° C. On the other hand, in Table 5, it is prepared by emulsifying in the same manner except that (8) is dispersed in the oil phases (1) to (7).
[Table 4]
Figure 0003614511
[Table 5]
Figure 0003614511
[0025]
About the sunscreen creams of Examples 3 and 4 above, skin irritation was evaluated together with Comparative Examples 7 and 8. For skin irritation, a closed patch test was performed for 48 hours using 30 panelists for each sample, and the results were evaluated according to the criteria shown in Table 6. Table 7 shows the average skin irritation index of 30 persons. It was expressed together with the pH value of each sample.
[Table 6]
Figure 0003614511
[0026]
[Table 7]
Figure 0003614511
As is apparent from Table 7, the cosmetic creams of Example 3 and Example 4 of the present invention were both slightly acidic with pH of 5.9 and 6.0, and the skin irritation index was also 0.05 and 0.00, respectively. It was a very low value of 06. On the other hand, Comparative Example 7 emulsified by using a fatty acid soap and a nonionic surfactant in combination showed a slight alkalinity of 8.4 and a skin irritation index of 1.51, indicating a weak irritation. Moreover, about the comparative example 8 emulsified using hydrophilic and lipophilic nonionic surfactant, although pH was 5.3 and weak acidity, the skin irritation | stimulation index | exponent which is close to moderate about 2.72 Some skin irritation was observed.
[0027]
Next, the water resistance of the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic for sunscreen according to the present invention was evaluated. With respect to Examples 1 to 4 of the present invention, Comparative Example 7 and Comparative Example 8, first, a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) was measured by coating the back part at a rate of 2 mg / square cm on a 20 square cm part. Then, after applying these samples again to the adjacent site and allowing them to dry sufficiently, underwater exercise such as swimming for 20 minutes is performed in the indoor pool, and underwater exercise is performed again for 20 minutes with a break for 20 minutes, Subsequently, after drying without using a towel, SPF was measured again. The SPF uses a xenon arc solar simulator as a light source, 20 adult male skin types I to III as subjects, and after obtaining the minimum amount of erythema (MED) in the uncoated part of the sample, the SPF value of the sample Is performed in five stages at a common ratio of 1.3, the MED of the sample application part is obtained, the SPF is calculated by dividing the value of the sample application part by the value of the sample non-application part, and the average value of each subject is used. did. The results are shown in Table 8.
[0028]
[Table 8]
Figure 0003614511
From Table 8, in the examples of the present invention, good water resistance was recognized, and good SPF values were shown even after swimming. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 7 and Comparative Example 8, the sunscreen cosmetics that flow due to underwater exercise such as swimming and the sunscreen cosmetics remaining on the skin are reduced, and thus the SPF value is greatly reduced.
[0029]
Then, the prescription of the oil-in-water type emulsified cosmetic for sunscreen which concerns on the Example of this invention is shown below.
[0030]
[Example 5] An emulsion for sunscreen (for UVB prevention)
Figure 0003614511
Production method: (9) to (11) were dissolved in (13) and heated to 70 ° C., (8) was added and dispersed uniformly, then mixed and dissolved in advance and heated to 80 ° C. After adding (1) to (7), the mixture is emulsified with a homomixer, cooled, and (12) is added at 40 ° C.
[0031]
[Example 6] An emulsion for sunscreen (for UVA prevention)
Figure 0003614511
Manufacturing method: (9) to (11) are dissolved in (13) and heated to 70 ° C., and after adding (1) to (8) mixed and dissolved in advance and heated to 80 ° C., a homomixer Emulsify with, cool and add (12) at 40 ° C.
[0032]
[Example 7] Emulsion type lotion for sunscreen (for UVA, UVB prevention)
Figure 0003614511
Manufacturing method: (12) to (14) dissolved in (15) and heated to 70 ° C, previously mixed, dissolved and heated to 80 ° C, (10) added to (1) to (9), Add the dispersion, emulsify with a homomixer, and cool.
[0033]
The emulsions for sunscreens of Examples 5 and 6 above, and the emulsion-type lotion for sunscreens of Example 7 both have uniform and fine emulsion particles with a particle diameter of 1 to 10 μm. It was stable for more than 1 month at 40 ° C.
[0034]
【The invention's effect】
As described in detail above, according to the present invention, a stable and good oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic for sunscreen could be obtained without using a hydrophilic surfactant. Furthermore, the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic for sunscreen according to the present invention is weakly acidic, has extremely low skin irritation, high water resistance, good resistance to sweat and water, and is hot and humid in summer. Even during exercise, it shows good makeup persistence.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a diagram showing appropriate compositions of components (A), (B) and (C) in the present invention.

Claims (4)

(A)高級脂肪酸、(B)高級アルコール、(C)脂肪酸モノグリセリド,モノアルキルグリセリルエーテル及びモノアルケニルグリセリルエーテルより選択した1種又は2種以上、(D)ベンゾトリアゾール誘導体を除く紫外線吸収剤及び/又は(E)酸化チタン,酸化亜鉛及び酸化ジルコニウムより選択した1種又は2種以上を含有し、親水性界面活性剤を含有せず、且つpHが5.0〜7.0であることを特徴とする、日焼け止め用水中油型乳化化粧料。One or more selected from (A) higher fatty acids, (B) higher alcohols, (C) fatty acid monoglycerides, monoalkyl glyceryl ethers and monoalkenyl glyceryl ethers, (D) UV absorbers excluding benzotriazole derivatives and / or Or (E) one or more selected from titanium oxide, zinc oxide and zirconium oxide, no hydrophilic surfactant, and a pH of 5.0 to 7.0 An oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic for sunscreen. (A)の高級脂肪酸が、炭素数11〜22の脂肪酸であることを特徴とする、請求項1に記載の日焼け止め用水中油型乳化化粧料。The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic for sunscreen according to claim 1, wherein the higher fatty acid (A) is a fatty acid having 11 to 22 carbon atoms. (B)の高級アルコールが、炭素数12〜22の脂肪族炭化水素鎖を有するものであることを特徴とする、請求項1又は請求項2に記載の日焼け止め用水中油型乳化化粧料。The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic for sunscreen according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the higher alcohol (B) has an aliphatic hydrocarbon chain having 12 to 22 carbon atoms. 高級脂肪酸:高級アルコールの重量比(A)/(B)が0.1〜1.0であり、且つ高級脂肪酸と高級アルコールの合計量と、脂肪酸モノグリセリド,モノアルキルグリセリルエーテル及びモノアルケニルグリセリルエーテルより選択した1種又は2種以上との重量比[(A)+(B)]/(C)が1〜10である、請求項1乃至請求項3に記載の日焼け止め用水中油型乳化化粧料。Higher fatty acid: The weight ratio (A) / (B) of the higher alcohol is 0.1 to 1.0, and the total amount of the higher fatty acid and the higher alcohol, fatty acid monoglyceride, monoalkyl glyceryl ether and monoalkenyl glyceryl ether The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic for sunscreen according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio [(A) + (B)] / (C) with one or more selected ones is 1-10. .
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KR100340633B1 (en) * 1996-05-20 2002-09-18 가부시키가이샤 시세이도 Oil-in-water emulsion composition and oil-in-water emulsifier
ATE338527T1 (en) * 1999-07-13 2006-09-15 Clr Chemisches Lab Dr Kurt Ric AGENT WITH UV RADIATION ABSORBING AND/OR REFLECTING EFFECT FOR PROTECTION AGAINST HARMFUL UV RADIATION AND STRENGTHENING THE NATURAL SKIN BARRIER
JP2001089347A (en) * 1999-09-21 2001-04-03 Noevir Co Ltd Hydrophobic powder-containing o/w-type emulsified composition
FR2804600B1 (en) * 2000-02-08 2002-03-22 Oreal PHOTOPROTECTIVE COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING A MIXTURE OF A POLYETHYLENE HAVING A TERMINAL CARBOXYLIC ACID FUNCTION AND A POLYETHYLENE
JP5124099B2 (en) * 2006-04-10 2013-01-23 ポーラ化成工業株式会社 Oil-in-water emulsifier type cosmetic
US20100196291A1 (en) * 2009-01-30 2010-08-05 Laurence Halimi Personal care sunscreen compositions having reduced eye irritation
US20140377197A1 (en) * 2011-12-22 2014-12-25 Dow Global Technologies Llc Suncare formulations and methods
WO2016068300A1 (en) * 2014-10-31 2016-05-06 株式会社 資生堂 Sunscreen cosmetic
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JP7088830B2 (en) * 2016-04-28 2022-06-21 株式会社 資生堂 Underwater oil type emulsified cosmetic
DE102018107718A1 (en) * 2018-03-29 2019-10-02 Ultrasun Ag A process for the preparation of a starting formulation for a dermatological sunscreen composition and for the preparation of a dermatological sunscreen composition

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