JP2014105307A - Method for processing three-dimensional pattern of leather material, leather material and three-dimensional pattern processing apparatus used for the same - Google Patents

Method for processing three-dimensional pattern of leather material, leather material and three-dimensional pattern processing apparatus used for the same Download PDF

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JP2014105307A
JP2014105307A JP2012261085A JP2012261085A JP2014105307A JP 2014105307 A JP2014105307 A JP 2014105307A JP 2012261085 A JP2012261085 A JP 2012261085A JP 2012261085 A JP2012261085 A JP 2012261085A JP 2014105307 A JP2014105307 A JP 2014105307A
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leather material
dimensional pattern
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interlining
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JP5587964B2 (en
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Nobuko Hashimoto
信子 橋本
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Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for processing a three-dimensional pattern of a leather material, a leather material and a three-dimensional pattern processing apparatus used for the same that may form a three-dimensional pattern by a folding and the like without suffering from a collapse and that may provide a leather material excellent in shape retention properties after the processing.SOLUTION: A method for processing a three-dimensional pattern of a leather material comprises the steps of: providing a leather material 1 on which a three-dimensional pattern is formed; and sticking an interlining 4 on a rear face 1b of the leather material while the leather material is exposed to a heating steam, mounting the front face 1a of the leather material on an elastic and flat supporting face 11a and carrying out a shape retention processing by pressurizing the leather material from above the interlining for predetermined time.

Description

本発明は、皮革素材に型崩れの生じない立体模様を施す立体模様加工方法、この立体模様加工方法によって製造される皮革素材及びこれに用いられる立体模様加工装置に関する。   The present invention relates to a three-dimensional pattern processing method for applying a three-dimensional pattern that does not lose its shape to a leather material, a leather material manufactured by this three-dimensional pattern processing method, and a three-dimensional pattern processing apparatus used therefor.

従来より、皮革素材は、通常の繊維素材とは異なり、弾性力があるため、絵柄等をスタンプしたりプリーツ加工する等の立体模様を施しても、時間が経過すると元の形状に戻ってしまうため、立体模様を施すことは困難とされていた。   Traditionally, leather materials are elastic unlike normal fiber materials, so even if a three-dimensional pattern such as stamping or pleating a pattern is applied, it will return to its original shape over time. For this reason, it has been difficult to apply a three-dimensional pattern.

また天然の皮革素材は、同じ一枚革の中でも、肩・背中・腹・脚等の各部位によって、それぞれの皮下組織内の繊維質層（コラーゲン）の密度が異なるため、革の強度や耐久性、伸縮率等の特徴に差がある。そして皮革素材は、動物の種類、育った環境、年齢、オスかメスかの違いの他、「皮」から「革」にする際の工場の機械の精度やなめし製法などの条件によっても、耐久性、固さ、柔軟性、縮率など、革質の特徴が異なってくることが当業者の間では知られている。   In addition, the natural leather material has the same strength as the leather because the density of the fibrous layer (collagen) in the subcutaneous tissue varies depending on the shoulder, back, belly, leg, etc. There are differences in characteristics such as elasticity and stretch rate. The leather material is durable depending on the type of animal, the environment in which it was raised, the age, the difference between male and female, as well as the precision of the machine in the factory and the tanning method when changing from leather to leather. It is known among those skilled in the art that the characteristics of leather quality such as property, hardness, flexibility, and reduction ratio are different.

そこで、下記特許文献１、２に記載されているように皮革素材に立体模様を施す加工方法が、種々提案されている。
たとえば、下記特許文献１には、１５０〜１８０℃に加熱された輪郭線出し用凸部をもつ前押し用押型を１〜７秒間皮革に押し着けることによって凹んだ輪郭線を設ける型付工程と、輪郭線に囲まれた凸状部の頂面に皮革用ラッカーで彩色する工程と
、前記型付け部分の上に表面が艶有り面の合成樹脂フィルムを重ねると共に当該フィルムの上から１４０℃〜１６０℃に加熱された前記の前押し用押型と同じ形の輪郭線出し用凸部をもつ後押し用押型をその輪郭線出し用凸部が前記輪郭線模様の凹み部に一致した状態で１０〜２０秒間押し着けたのち当該後押し用押型及びフィルムを取去する工程と、を順になすようにした皮革素材への柄付方法が開示されている。
これによれば、柄に立体感をもたせ且つ彩色部の表面に艶をもたせた価値の高い商品を得ることができるとされている。 Therefore, various processing methods for applying a three-dimensional pattern to a leather material as described in Patent Documents 1 and 2 have been proposed.
For example, in the following Patent Document 1, a molding step of providing a concave contour line by pressing a pressing die for pressing with a contour line convex portion heated to 150 to 180 ° C. against leather for 1 to 7 seconds; The top surface of the convex portion surrounded by the contour line is colored with a leather lacquer, and a synthetic resin film having a glossy surface is overlaid on the mold part and 140 ° C. to 160 ° C. from above the film. 10 to 20 in a state where the contouring convex portion coincides with the concave portion of the contour line pattern, in the state where the contouring convex portion coincides with the concave portion of the contour line pattern. A method of applying a pattern to a leather material is disclosed in which the pressing mold for pressing and the step of removing the film after pressing for a second are sequentially performed.
According to this, it is said that it is possible to obtain a high-value product with a three-dimensional effect on the handle and a glossy surface on the colored portion.

また特許文献２には、平面状の皮革に糸や紐等の線状の締結材を差し入れ、長さを持つ連続した山状の凸部が複数並んだ状態に絞括することにより、凹凸部を備えた立体形状に変形させるとともに、凸部と凹部の間の側壁部を互いに重合した断熱状態とする工程と、当該皮革の全体を加熱液に浸漬し、凸部および凹部を硬化させる工程とよりなり、前記硬化により立体形状を保持させる皮革加工方法が開示されている。
これによれば、凹凸部を備えた立体形状に変形させるので、凸部と凹部の途中の側壁部が互いに重合して断熱させ、加熱による硬化を防止できるため、皮革の柔軟性が維持される。また、立体形状の付与と断熱を同時に行うことができ、作業工程を簡便化できるとされている。 Further, in Patent Document 2, an uneven portion is formed by inserting a linear fastening material such as a thread or string into a flat leather and narrowing it down in a state where a plurality of continuous convex portions having a length are arranged. And a step of making the side wall portion between the convex portion and the concave portion into a heat insulating state polymerized with each other, a step of immersing the entire leather in a heating liquid, and curing the convex portion and the concave portion, Further, a leather processing method for retaining a three-dimensional shape by the curing is disclosed.
According to this, since it is deformed into a three-dimensional shape with an uneven portion, the side wall portion in the middle of the convex portion and the concave portion is superposed and insulated to prevent hardening due to heating, so that the flexibility of the leather is maintained. . Moreover, it is supposed that a solid shape can be imparted and heat-insulated at the same time, and the work process can be simplified.

特開平６−１００９００号公報JP-A-6-100900 特開２００９−１１４７８９号公報JP 2009-114789 A

しかしながら、上記特許文献１に記載の方法は、型付け部分の上に合成樹脂フィルムを重ねる構成になっていることから、皮革素材に押し型を用いて部分的に柄付けを行う場合はよいが、皮革素材全体にプリーツ加工のような３次元立体模様を施すことはできなかった。
また上記特許文献２に記載の方法は、糸や紐等の線状の締結材を差し入れ、長さを持つ連続した山状の凸部が複数並んだ状態に絞括するため、かなりの人手、手間を要し、工業製品として生産ベースに乗せることが困難である。更に、作業者の熟練を要するため、常に同じの表情、状態とすることも難しく、いずれにしても皮革素材の全体にプリーツ加工のような３次元立体模様を施すことが出来なかった。 However, since the method described in Patent Document 1 has a structure in which a synthetic resin film is overlaid on a mold part, it is good to perform patterning partially using a pressing mold on a leather material. The entire leather material could not be given a three-dimensional pattern like pleating.
In addition, the method described in the above-mentioned Patent Document 2 inserts a linear fastening material such as a thread or a string, and narrows it down in a state where a plurality of continuous mountain-shaped convex portions having a length are arranged. It takes time and is difficult to put it on a production base as an industrial product. Furthermore, since the skill of the operator is required, it is difficult to always have the same expression and state, and in any case, it has been impossible to apply a three-dimensional pattern such as pleating to the entire leather material.

また、一般に、牛、豚、山羊等の天然の皮革素材は、皮そのものに傷が多いために、ロスとなる部分が多く、傷がない部位を使用しているために高額なものになってしまう。よって、革製品というと高級なイメージが先行し、革製品がもつ本来の良さ（防寒性、耐火性、丈夫さ）が認知されていない現状がある。いま日本は、古来から伝わるなめし技術や加工技術等が世界のトップレベルにあるにもかかわらず、皮革産業は衰退しつつあるといえる。
さらに、天然の皮革素材は、同型の型紙で裁断を行った後、革の部位の違い、温度、湿度等によって最大５％前後伸縮することがある。通常、日本の被服等のアパレル商品の製品における検品サイズの伸縮の許容範囲は３％以内とされているため、日本の縫製工場では革でアパレル商品を工業製品化することを敬遠する傾向がある。 In general, natural leather materials such as cows, pigs, goats, etc. are expensive because they use many parts that are lossy because there are many scratches on the leather itself. End up. Therefore, leather products are preceded by a high-class image, and the original goodness (cold weather resistance, fire resistance, durability) of leather products is not recognized. Japan can now be said that the leather industry is declining despite the world's top level of tanning and processing techniques.
Furthermore, natural leather materials may be stretched by about 5% at maximum after cutting with the same type of paper pattern, depending on the difference in leather parts, temperature, humidity, and the like. Normally, the allowable range of inspection size expansion and contraction in apparel products such as Japanese clothing is within 3%, so Japanese garment factories tend to refrain from making apparel products industrial products with leather. .

本発明は、上記実情に鑑みてなされたものであり、皮革素材に、プリーツ加工のような折込み等による３次元立体模様も型崩れなく形成できる、デザイン性の高い皮革素材の立体模様加工方法、皮革素材及びこれに用いられる立体模様加工装置を提供することを目的としている。   The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and a three-dimensional pattern processing method for a leather material with high design, which can form a three-dimensional three-dimensional pattern by folding such as pleating without any loss of shape, An object is to provide a leather material and a three-dimensional pattern processing apparatus used therefor.

上記目的を達成するために提案される本発明は、立体模様が施された皮革素材を準備する工程と、この皮革素材を加熱蒸気に晒した状態で、該皮革素材の裏面側に芯地を貼付け、前記皮革素材の表面を弾性力のある平坦な支持面に載置して、芯地の上面から所定時間加圧して保形処理する工程とを備えている。   The present invention proposed to achieve the above object includes a step of preparing a leather material provided with a three-dimensional pattern, and in a state in which the leather material is exposed to heating steam, an interlining is provided on the back side of the leather material. And a step of placing the surface of the leather material on a flat support surface having elasticity and pressurizing it from the upper surface of the interlining for a predetermined time.

ここに、立体模様は、予め準備した型紙で皮革素材の上、下を挟み込んで折り込みによる立体模様を施すものであってもよいし、押型を押圧して形成されたものであってもよい。
また、芯地は、ホットメルトタイプの接着部を設けたものでは、皮革素材が加熱蒸気に晒され、芯地の上面から加圧されるときに、同時に皮革素材の裏面に貼着して固定できる。
本発明における皮革素材は、前記皮革素材の立体模様加工方法によって製造されたことを特徴とする。
また、本発明における立体模様加工装置は、加圧面を有し、弾性力のある平坦な支持面を有した加圧プレス手段と、皮革素材に、所定温度の蒸気を噴霧する手段とを少なくとも組み合わせて構成された、皮革素材の模様加工装置として用いられることを特徴とする。 Here, the three-dimensional pattern may be one in which a three-dimensional pattern is formed by folding the leather material by sandwiching the top and bottom of the leather material, or may be formed by pressing a pressing die.
In addition, when the interlining is provided with a hot melt type adhesive, when the leather material is exposed to heated steam and pressurized from the upper surface of the interlining, it is attached and fixed to the back surface of the leather material at the same time. it can.
The leather material in the present invention is manufactured by the three-dimensional pattern processing method of the leather material.
In addition, the three-dimensional pattern processing apparatus according to the present invention includes at least a combination of a pressing unit having a pressing surface and a flat supporting surface having elasticity, and a unit for spraying steam at a predetermined temperature onto the leather material. It is characterized by being used as a leather material pattern processing device.

本発明に係る皮革素材の立体模様加工方法によれば、準備工程で立体模様の施された皮革素材を準備し、保形処理工程では、皮革素材は、所定の加熱蒸気に晒された状態で、裏面側には芯地を貼付け、皮革素材の表面側は弾性力のある平坦な支持面に載せられて芯地の上面から加圧される。
したがって、保形処理工程では、皮革素材は加熱蒸気に晒され、柔軟になった状態で、立体模様が施された皮革素材の裏面側は芯地によって広がりが拘束される一方、表面側は弾性力のある平坦な支持面に沈み込みながら加圧されるので、立体模様が施された部分には無用な圧力が急激に加わって変形することなく、保形処理がなされる。
また、所定の加熱蒸気に晒された状態で皮革素材の表面側は弾性力のある平坦な支持面に載せられて加圧されるので、皮革素材が過度な加熱・加圧に晒されることがなく、皮革素材を痛めることがない。よって皮独特の風合いが損なわれることがない。
さらにこのようにして、保形処理された後は、皮革素材の裏面に貼付けて固着された芯地によって拘束されているので、長い時間に亘って使用しても形崩れを生じることがない。
そして、従来から繊維生地に使用している型紙等を使用して立体模様を施した皮革素材を、そのまま使用できるので、デザイン性の高い皮革商品の開発に寄与できる。よって、皮革素材に施すことができる立体模様のバリエーションが多数実現できるため、多種多様のデザイン商品が可能となり、デザイナーの要望にも応えることができる。
また、皮革素材に立体模様を施した商品は、皮革素材に傷があっても目立つことがないので、従来は廃棄していた皮革素材の傷部分も有効に利用でき、裁断ロスを減らすことができる。 According to the three-dimensional pattern processing method for a leather material according to the present invention, a leather material subjected to a three-dimensional pattern is prepared in the preparation step, and in the shape retaining treatment step, the leather material is exposed to predetermined heating steam. The interlining is affixed to the back side, and the surface side of the leather material is placed on an elastic flat support surface and pressed from the upper surface of the interlining.
Therefore, in the shape-retaining treatment process, the leather material is exposed to heated steam and becomes soft, and the back side of the leather material with a three-dimensional pattern is constrained by the interlining, while the surface side is elastic. Since the pressure is applied while sinking into a strong flat support surface, unnecessary pressure is suddenly applied to the portion on which the three-dimensional pattern is applied, and the shape retention process is performed without deformation.
In addition, since the surface side of the leather material is placed on the flat support surface with elasticity and pressed when exposed to the prescribed heating steam, the leather material may be exposed to excessive heating and pressurization. There is no damage to the leather material. Therefore, the unique texture of the skin is not impaired.
Further, after the shape-retaining treatment is performed in this manner, the shape is not deformed even when used for a long time because it is restrained by the interlining bonded and fixed to the back surface of the leather material.
And since the leather material which gave the three-dimensional pattern using the pattern etc. which have been conventionally used for textile fabric can be used as it is, it can contribute to development of the leather product with high design nature. Therefore, since many variations of the three-dimensional pattern that can be applied to the leather material can be realized, a wide variety of design products are possible, and the demands of designers can be met.
In addition, products with a three-dimensional pattern on leather materials do not stand out even if there are scratches on the leather material, so you can effectively use the scratched leather material that was previously discarded, reducing cutting loss. it can.

本実施形態に係る皮革素材の立体模様加工方法の説明するためのフローチャートである。It is a flowchart for demonstrating the three-dimensional pattern processing method of the leather raw material which concerns on this embodiment. 同皮革素材の立体模様加工方法における立体模様加工を説明するための模式的概略斜視図である。It is a typical schematic perspective view for demonstrating the three-dimensional pattern processing in the three-dimensional pattern processing method of the leather material. （ａ）及び（ｂ）は、同立体模様加工を説明するための模式的概略斜視図である。(A) And (b) is a typical schematic perspective view for demonstrating the same three-dimensional pattern process. （ａ）は同皮革素材の立体模様加工方法に用いられる立体模様加工装置を示す模式的概略断面図、（ｂ）は同立体模様加工装置を用いて保形処理した後の皮革素材を示す模式的概略側面図、（ｃ）は同立体模様加工装置を用いて保形処理した後の皮革素材を示す模式的概略斜視図である。(A) is a schematic schematic cross-sectional view showing a three-dimensional pattern processing apparatus used in the three-dimensional pattern processing method for the leather material, and (b) is a schematic diagram showing a leather material after shape-retaining treatment using the three-dimensional pattern processing apparatus. (C) is a typical schematic perspective view showing a leather material after shape-retaining treatment using the same three-dimensional pattern processing apparatus. （ａ）は同皮革素材の立体模様加工方法に用いて加工を施した皮革素材の表面側を示す模式的概略平面図、（ｂ）は同皮革素材の立体模様加工方法に用いて加工を施した皮革素材の裏面側を示す模式的概略平面図である。(A) is a schematic schematic plan view showing the surface side of a leather material processed using the same three-dimensional pattern processing method of the leather material, (b) is processed using the three-dimensional pattern processing method of the same leather material. It is a typical schematic plan view which shows the back surface side of the made leather raw material.

以下に本発明の実施の形態について、図面に基づいて説明する。
本実施形態に係る皮革素材の立体模様加工方法は、立体模様が施された皮革素材１を準備する工程と、この皮革素材１を加熱蒸気に晒した状態で、該皮革素材１の裏面１ｂ側に芯地４を貼付け、皮革素材１の表面１ａを弾性力のある平坦な支持面１１ａに載置して、該皮革素材１を、芯地４の上面から所定時間加圧して保形処理する工程とを備えている。
以下、詳しく説明する。 Embodiments of the present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings.
The three-dimensional pattern processing method for a leather material according to the present embodiment includes a step of preparing a leather material 1 having a three-dimensional pattern, and a back surface 1b side of the leather material 1 in a state where the leather material 1 is exposed to heating steam. The interlining 4 is affixed, the surface 1a of the leather material 1 is placed on the flat support surface 11a having elasticity, and the leather material 1 is pressed from the upper surface of the interlining 4 for a predetermined time for shape retention. Process.
This will be described in detail below.

まず、本実施形態に係る立体模様加工方法が適用できる皮革素材１としては、牛皮、豚皮、山羊皮、羊皮、馬皮、鳥類、爬虫類、魚類など、動物皮等の天然皮革の他、人工皮革素材が挙げられる。鳥類としては、七面鳥の足の皮、魚類では、サメの皮等が挙げられる。
皮革素材１の厚みは、特に限定されないが、製品化されるもの（靴、バッグ、ジャケット、スカート、ソファーや車の背もたれ部分、クッション、照明器具の傘部分等）やデザインによって所望の厚みが選択される。具体的に皮革素材１の厚みは、例えば０．５ｍｍ〜２ｍｍの厚さとすることができ、０．６ｍｍ〜０．９ｍｍｍの厚みとすることが望ましい。０．６ｍｍ以下の皮革素材を漉くのは困難といえ、０．９ｍｍより厚い場合は、立体模様も施しがたく、保形性も劣る。
皮革素材１に施される立体模様の例も特に限定されないが、本発明では、特に従来では困難とされていた後記するような型紙２，３を使った３次元立体模様加工が可能である。例えば、サイドプリーツ状、ヘリンボーン状、格子状、クラッシュプリーツ状、ランダムプリーツ状、アコーディオンプリーツ状、ワンウェイプリーツ状、ボックスプリーツ状、マジョリカプリーツ状、ウェーブプリーツ状、ピンチプリーツ状、ワッシャープリーツ状、コンピュータマシンプリーツ状等、様々な立体模様が可能である。なお、図２〜図４ではアコーディオンプリーツ状、図５ではヘリンボーン状の立体模様を付した例を示している。また図示していないが、上述のプリーツ加工に限定されず、凹凸のあるスタンプ型を押し付け、模様をつけることにより立体模様を施した皮革素材１にも、本発明は適用できる。 First, as the leather material 1 to which the three-dimensional pattern processing method according to the present embodiment can be applied, in addition to natural leather such as animal skin such as cow skin, pig skin, goat skin, sheep skin, horse skin, birds, reptiles, fish, artificial leather, etc. A leather material is mentioned. Examples of birds include turkey leg skins, and examples of fish include shark skins.
The thickness of the leather material 1 is not particularly limited, but the desired thickness can be selected depending on the product (shoes, bags, jackets, skirts, sofas, backrests of cars, cushions, umbrella parts of lighting fixtures, etc.) and design Is done. Specifically, the thickness of the leather material 1 can be, for example, 0.5 mm to 2 mm, and preferably 0.6 mm to 0.9 mm. It can be said that it is difficult to spread a leather material of 0.6 mm or less, and when it is thicker than 0.9 mm, a three-dimensional pattern is difficult to apply and shape retention is poor.
An example of a three-dimensional pattern applied to the leather material 1 is not particularly limited, but in the present invention, a three-dimensional three-dimensional pattern processing using patterns 2 and 3 described later, which has been considered difficult in the past, is possible. For example, side pleated, herringbone, lattice, crush pleated, random pleated, accordion pleated, one-way pleated, box pleated, majorica pleated, wave pleated, pinch pleated, washer pleated, computer machine Various three-dimensional patterns such as pleats are possible. 2 to 4 show an example in which an accordion pleated shape is provided, and FIG. 5 shows a herringbone-like three-dimensional pattern. Although not shown, the present invention is not limited to the pleating process described above, and the present invention can also be applied to the leather material 1 that has been subjected to a three-dimensional pattern by pressing a stamp with unevenness and applying a pattern.

次に、図１〜図４を参照しながら、皮革素材の立体模様加工方法の一例について説明する。
ここでは、皮革素材１にアコーディオンプリーツ状の３次元立体模様加工を施す場合の立体模様加工方法を説明する。皮革素材１としては、天然の牛皮を用い、その厚さを０．６〜０．８ｍｍの厚みになるように漉きをかけたものを使用した。
後記する「保形処理工程」で使用する立体模様加工装置１０としては、特に限定されないが、例えば図４（ａ）に示すような装置を用意する。 Next, an example of a three-dimensional pattern processing method for a leather material will be described with reference to FIGS.
Here, a three-dimensional pattern processing method in the case of performing an accordion pleated three-dimensional three-dimensional pattern processing on the leather material 1 will be described. As the leather material 1, natural cowhide was used, and the thickness was 0.6 to 0.8 mm.
The three-dimensional pattern processing apparatus 10 used in the “shape retention process step” to be described later is not particularly limited. For example, an apparatus as shown in FIG. 4A is prepared.

図４（ａ）に示す立体模様加工装置１０は、加圧面１２ａを有した加圧プレス手段１２と、弾性力のある平坦な支持面１１ａを有した加工台１１とを備え、さらに皮革素材１に所定温度の蒸気を噴霧するスチーム手段（不図示）も備えている。加圧プレス手段１２の加圧面１２ａは、平坦面に形成されている。加工台１１の上面は平坦面とされ、その上には弾性力のある柔らかい素材で構成された支持部材１１ｂが設置されている。立体模様加工装置１０は、開閉口を備えたボックス（不図示）によって覆われており、スチーム手段を駆動させる際には窯のような状態とすることができる。   The three-dimensional pattern processing apparatus 10 shown in FIG. 4 (a) includes a pressing press means 12 having a pressing surface 12a and a processing table 11 having a flat support surface 11a having elasticity, and further a leather material 1 Steam means (not shown) for spraying steam at a predetermined temperature is also provided. The pressure surface 12a of the pressure press means 12 is formed on a flat surface. The upper surface of the processing table 11 is a flat surface, and a support member 11b made of a soft material having elasticity is installed thereon. The three-dimensional pattern processing apparatus 10 is covered with a box (not shown) having an opening and closing, and can be in a kiln-like state when driving the steam means.

支持部材１１ｂとして用いられる素材は、特に限定されないが、ゴムや発泡樹脂等からなるスポンジを用いてもよい。要は、ここで用いられる支持部材１１ｂは、立体模様加工が施された皮革素材１が加圧プレス手段１２によって加圧されても、立体模様の形状に変形を加えることなく保持できるような弾力性を備えていればよい。
加圧プレス手段１２によって加圧される圧力値は限定されるものではないが、保形処理を行う皮革素材弾性力のある柔らかい素材、１の種類、厚みに応じて圧力調節が段階的に行うことができるものが望ましい。例えば総圧力が０．０ｋＮ〜１２．０ｋＮの範囲を８〜９段階に調整できるものを用いてもよい。温度も保形処理を行う皮革素材１の種類、厚みに応じて１００〜１５０℃の温度調節が段階的に行うことができるものが望ましい。
ついで、本発明の要素を更に詳細に説明する。 The material used as the support member 11b is not particularly limited, but a sponge made of rubber or foamed resin may be used. In short, the supporting member 11b used here is elastic enough to hold the leather material 1 subjected to the three-dimensional pattern processing without being deformed even when the leather material 1 is pressed by the pressing press means 12. It only has to have sex.
Although the pressure value pressurized by the pressure press means 12 is not limited, the leather material that performs the shape retention treatment is soft, elastic material, the pressure is adjusted step by step according to the type and thickness. What can be desirable. For example, you may use what can adjust the range whose total pressure is 0.0 kN-12.0 kN to 8-9 steps. It is desirable that the temperature can be adjusted in steps from 100 to 150 ° C. depending on the type and thickness of the leather material 1 to be subjected to the shape-retaining treatment.
Next, the elements of the present invention will be described in more detail.

＜準備工程・立体模様加工＞（図１・Ｓ１）
まずは、立体模様加工を行う。
皮革素材１を所定の形状、所定の寸法に裁断する。図例の皮革素材１は、略方形に裁断されたものを示している。ここで立体模様加工の工程自体の加工方法は、特に限定されない。皮革素材１の種類、その厚み、これに施す立体模様の形状によって、その加工方法は様々な方法が考えられる。
本実施形態では、図２に示すように模様加工用の型紙２，３を用いて、３次元立体模様加工を行う場合を説明する。
皮革素材１と略同形略同寸の模様加工用の型紙２，３を２枚用意し、アコーディオンプリーツ状に型作りを行う。図例のように単純な立体模様であれば、この型作りを機械化することも可能である。
そして図３（ａ）に示すように型作りされた型紙２，３で皮革素材１の表面１ａ側と裏面１ｂ側とを挟み込み、折り込みを行い、皮革素材１に型付けを行う。皮革素材１に立体模様が型付けされたら、型紙２，３を取り除く。この状態を示したのが、図３（ｂ）である。 <Preparation process / three-dimensional pattern processing> (FIG. 1, S1)
First, three-dimensional pattern processing is performed.
The leather material 1 is cut into a predetermined shape and a predetermined dimension. The leather material 1 in the illustrated example is cut into a substantially square shape. Here, the processing method of the three-dimensional pattern processing step itself is not particularly limited. Various processing methods can be considered depending on the type of leather material 1, its thickness, and the shape of the three-dimensional pattern applied thereto.
In the present embodiment, a case will be described in which three-dimensional pattern processing is performed using pattern patterns 2 and 3 as shown in FIG.
Prepare two stencil patterns 2 and 3 for pattern processing that are approximately the same shape and size as leather material 1 and mold them into accordion pleats. If it is a simple three-dimensional pattern as shown in the figure, this mold making can be mechanized.
Then, the front surface 1a side and the back surface 1b side of the leather material 1 are sandwiched between the paper patterns 2 and 3 formed as shown in FIG. When the three-dimensional pattern is formed on the leather material 1, the patterns 2 and 3 are removed. FIG. 3B shows this state.

型紙２，３として用いられる型紙の種類は、和紙、洋紙など特に限定されず、洋裁で用いられる型紙であってもよい。立体模様加工は、プレス機にかけて加工してもよく、所定温度の蒸気に晒して所定時間加圧を行うようにしてもよい。この場合に用いられる型紙２，３は、蒸気を通すものが用いられる。プレス機の加圧手段も特に限定されず、平プレスであってもよいし、ロールプレスであってもよい。   The type of paper pattern used as the paper pattern 2 or 3 is not particularly limited, such as Japanese paper or Western paper, and may be a paper pattern used in dressmaking. The three-dimensional pattern processing may be performed using a press machine, or may be performed by applying pressure for a predetermined time by exposure to steam at a predetermined temperature. The patterns 2 and 3 used in this case are those that pass steam. The pressurizing means of the press machine is not particularly limited, and may be a flat press or a roll press.

＜保形処理工程・立体模様加工装置へのセッティング＞（図１・Ｓ２）
次にこの立体模様加工が施された皮革素材１（図３（ｂ）の状態）を立体模様加工装置１０の加工台１１に載置する。具体的には、加工台１１の上面に設置された支持部材１１ｂの上に皮革素材１を置き、皮革素材１の表面１ａ側を下方に向け、支持面１１ａの上にその表面１ａ側が接触するように載置される（図４（ａ）参照）。
このように立体模様加工が施された皮革素材１の表面１ａに、弾性力のある柔らかい素材からなる支持部材１１ｂの支持面１１ａが接触するように載置されることで、立体模様が押しつぶされてしまうことを防ぐことができる。図例の場合は、アコーディオンプリーツ状に立体模様加工された皮革素材１の山部が支持面１１ａに接触しても、支持部材１１ｂの弾性力によって山部がつぶれてしまうことを防ぐことができる。
支持部材１１ｂの厚みは特に限定されないが、１ｃｍ前後あれば十分である。あまりに薄すぎると立体模様の保形機能が劣る傾向となり、厚すぎると加圧プレス手段１２による加圧時の安定性に影響がでる傾向となる。 <Shape-holding process / setting to 3D pattern processing equipment> (Fig. 1, S2)
Next, the leather material 1 (the state shown in FIG. 3B) subjected to the three-dimensional pattern processing is placed on the processing table 11 of the three-dimensional pattern processing apparatus 10. Specifically, the leather material 1 is placed on the support member 11b installed on the upper surface of the processing table 11, the surface 1a side of the leather material 1 is directed downward, and the surface 1a side contacts the support surface 11a. (See FIG. 4A).
By placing the support surface 11a of the support member 11b made of a soft material having elasticity on the surface 1a of the leather material 1 subjected to the three-dimensional pattern processing in this way, the three-dimensional pattern is crushed. Can be prevented. In the case of the illustrated example, even if the peak portion of the leather material 1 that is three-dimensionally processed into an accordion pleat shape contacts the support surface 11a, the peak portion can be prevented from being crushed by the elastic force of the support member 11b. .
The thickness of the support member 11b is not particularly limited, but about 1 cm is sufficient. If it is too thin, the shape retaining function of the three-dimensional pattern tends to be inferior. If it is too thick, the stability during pressurization by the pressure press means 12 tends to be affected.

＜保形処理工程・芯地積層＞（図１・Ｓ３）
芯地積層では、支持面１１ａの上に設置した皮革素材１の上に芯地４を積層する。このとき、皮革素材１の裏面１ｂの上に芯地４の接着部４１が整合するように留意する。芯地４は、皮革素材１の表面１ａ側からは見えないように、また皮革素材１を後に製品に加工・縫製等する際に邪魔にならないように、皮革素材１の寸法よりもひとまわり程度小さい略同形のものを用意する。
芯地４は接着部４１を点在させるなど接着部４１を備えたものであれば、特に限定されないが、例えば織物、編物、不織布などを基布４０にしたものを用いることができる。接着部４１は、熱を加えることによって、熱可塑性の合成樹脂等からなる、ホットメルトタイプの接着剤で構成されたものを用いると、加熱しながらプレスすることによって、皮革素材１の裏面１ｂに貼付けできる。 <Shaping treatment process / interlining lamination> (Fig. 1, S3)
In the interlining, the interlining 4 is laminated on the leather material 1 installed on the support surface 11a. At this time, attention should be paid so that the adhesive portion 41 of the interlining 4 is aligned with the back surface 1b of the leather material 1. The interlining 4 is less than the size of the leather material 1 so that it cannot be seen from the surface 1a side of the leather material 1 and does not get in the way when the leather material 1 is later processed and sewn. Prepare a small, nearly identical shape.
The interlining 4 is not particularly limited as long as it is provided with the adhesive portion 41 such as interspersed with the adhesive portion 41. For example, a fabric made of a woven fabric, a knitted fabric, a non-woven fabric, or the like can be used. When the adhesive part 41 is made of a hot melt type adhesive made of a thermoplastic synthetic resin or the like by applying heat, it is applied to the back surface 1b of the leather material 1 by pressing while heating. Can be pasted.

＜保形処理工程・高温スチーム加圧処理＞（図１・Ｓ４）
次に、この状態で皮革素材１を所定温度の蒸気に晒して、所定時間の加圧を行う。
ボックスの開閉口を閉じ、ボックス内にスチーム手段によって供給される蒸気を充満させ、１１０℃〜１３０℃とする。そしてこの状態で加圧プレス手段１２によって、１２秒〜１５秒という非常に短時間の加圧を行う。このボックス内の温度、加圧する時間は、皮革素材１の種類や厚みによって異なり、使用する素材によって異なる。要は、立体模様加工された皮革素材１の立体模様を保持したまま、皮革素材１の裏面１ｂに芯地４を貼付けて固着することができればよい（図４（ｂ）参照）。 <Shape-retaining treatment process / high-temperature steam pressure treatment> (Fig. 1, S4)
Next, in this state, the leather material 1 is exposed to steam at a predetermined temperature and pressurized for a predetermined time.
The opening / closing port of the box is closed, and the steam supplied by the steam means is filled in the box, and the temperature is set to 110 ° C to 130 ° C. In this state, pressing is performed for a very short time of 12 to 15 seconds by the pressing press means 12. The temperature in the box and the pressurizing time vary depending on the type and thickness of the leather material 1 and vary depending on the material used. In short, it is only necessary that the interlining 4 is adhered and fixed to the back surface 1b of the leather material 1 while retaining the three-dimensional pattern of the leather material 1 subjected to the three-dimensional pattern processing (see FIG. 4B).

ここで芯地４を皮革素材１に貼り付ける保形処理（図１・Ｓ２〜Ｓ４）は、布地に芯地を貼り付けるのとは大きく異なるので留意が必要である。皮革素材１は熱に弱く、あまり長時間に高温にさらすと硬化してしまう。また湿気にも弱いので、長時間スチームに晒すと皮革素材１の風合いが損なわれてしまう。さらに長時間加圧すると支持部材１１ｂがつぶされて皮革素材１に施された立体模様もつぶれてしまうおそれがでてくる。一方、芯地４の接着部４１は、熱を加えることによって、接着性を発揮する熱可塑性の合成樹脂等からなるホットメルトタイプの接着剤からなるため、少なくとも上記温度で上記時間、加圧を行わないと、皮革素材１の裏面１ｂに芯地４を確実に貼り付けることができない。この条件は、発明者による鋭意検討の結果、知得されたものである。   It should be noted that the shape-retaining treatment for attaching the interlining 4 to the leather material 1 (FIG. 1, S2 to S4) is significantly different from attaching the interlining to the fabric. The leather material 1 is vulnerable to heat and hardens when exposed to high temperatures for a long time. Moreover, since it is weak also to moisture, the texture of the leather material 1 will be impaired if it exposes to steam for a long time. If the pressure is further applied for a long time, the support member 11b may be crushed and the three-dimensional pattern applied to the leather material 1 may be crushed. On the other hand, the adhesive portion 41 of the interlining 4 is made of a hot melt type adhesive made of a thermoplastic synthetic resin or the like that exhibits adhesiveness by applying heat. Otherwise, the interlining 4 cannot be reliably attached to the back surface 1b of the leather material 1. This condition has been obtained as a result of intensive studies by the inventors.

こうして高温スチーム加圧処理を経て皮革素材１に芯地４を貼り付ければ、立体模様加工が施された皮革素材１を得ることができる（図４（ｃ）参照）。
図５は、上述の加工方法によって得た皮革素材１の一例を模式的に示している。
図５（ａ）に示すようにヘリンボーン状の複雑な３次元立体模様は、従来であれば時間が経つと折り目が鮮鋭に保持できず、立体模様を維持できなかったが、本発明によれば、図５（ａ）に示す立体模様を維持することができる。図５（ｂ）は裏面１ｂ側からみた平面図である。皮革素材１の裏面１ｂには、このように芯地４が貼り付けられ、芯地４によっていわば立体模様が固定されるので、元の形状に戻ろうとする復元力の作用を阻止することができる。 Thus, if the interlining 4 is affixed to the leather raw material 1 through a high temperature steam pressurization process, the leather raw material 1 in which the three-dimensional pattern process was performed can be obtained (refer FIG.4 (c)).
FIG. 5 schematically shows an example of the leather material 1 obtained by the processing method described above.
As shown in FIG. 5 (a), a herringbone-like complex three-dimensional solid pattern cannot be maintained sharply over time, and the solid pattern cannot be maintained over time, according to the present invention. The solid pattern shown in FIG. 5A can be maintained. FIG. 5B is a plan view seen from the back surface 1b side. Since the interlining 4 is affixed to the back surface 1b of the leather material 1 and the so-called three-dimensional pattern is fixed by the interlining 4, it is possible to prevent the restoring force from returning to the original shape. .

以上の皮革素材１の立体模様加工方法によれば、保形処理工程では、皮革素材１は加熱蒸気に晒され、柔軟になった状態で、立体模様が施された皮革素材１の裏面１ｂ側は芯地４によって広がりが拘束される一方、表面１ａ側は弾性力のある平坦な支持面１１ａに沈み込みながら加圧されるので、立体模様が施された部分には無用な圧力が急激に加わって変形することなく、保形処理がなされる。
また、所定の加熱蒸気に晒された状態で皮革素材１の表面１ａ側は弾性力のある平坦な支持面１１ａに載せられて加圧されるので、皮革素材が過度な加熱・加圧に晒されることがなく、皮革素材１を痛めることがない。よって皮独特の風合いが損なわれることがない。
さらにこのようにして、保形処理された後は、皮革素材１の裏面１ｂに貼付けて固着された芯地４によって拘束されているので、長い時間に亘って使用しても形崩れを生じることがない。 According to the three-dimensional pattern processing method for the leather material 1 described above, the leather material 1 is exposed to heated steam and becomes flexible in the shape-retaining treatment process, and the back surface 1b side of the leather material 1 on which the three-dimensional pattern is applied. While the spread is constrained by the interlining 4, the surface 1 a side is pressed while sinking into the flat support surface 11 a having elasticity, so that unnecessary pressure is suddenly applied to the portion where the three-dimensional pattern is applied. The shape-retaining process is performed without any additional deformation.
In addition, since the surface 1a side of the leather material 1 is placed on the flat support surface 11a having elasticity and pressed when exposed to predetermined heating steam, the leather material is exposed to excessive heating and pressurization. The leather material 1 is not damaged. Therefore, the unique texture of the skin is not impaired.
Furthermore, after the shape-retaining treatment is performed in this manner, the shape is deformed even if it is used for a long time because it is restrained by the interlining 4 that is stuck and fixed to the back surface 1b of the leather material 1. There is no.

そして、従来から繊維生地に使用している型紙等を使用して立体模様を施した皮革素材１を、そのまま使用できるので、デザイン性の高い皮革商品の開発に寄与できる。
よって、皮革素材１に施すことができる立体模様のバリエーションが多数実現できるため、多種多様のデザイン商品が可能となり、デザイナーの要望にも応えることができる。
また図例のようにプリーツ加工をし芯地４が接着された皮革素材１を裁断すれば、革本来の伸縮を止めることができ、サイズのばらつきを防止して日本の厳しい検品基準を満たす安定した商品を作製することができる。
さらに従来は２枚の伸縮する皮革素材同士を縫い合わせることは不安定で難しく、縫いじわ、縫い縮みが生じやすく、縫製不良を起こすため、それぞれの縫い目線に伸び止めのテープを貼ることがなされていた。しかしながら、本実施形態に係る立体模様加工方法が施された皮革素材１を２枚のうちの一方に用いれば、サイズが安定するので、他方を縫い合わせるときに、従来のようにテープを貼る作業を省略することができ、作業の効率化を図ることができる。
そして皮革素材１に立体模様を施した商品は、皮革素材１に傷があっても目立つことがなく、どの部位を裁断しても、芯地４を貼られていることでサイズを安定させることができるので、従来は廃棄していた皮革素材の傷部分も有効に利用でき、裁断ロスを減らすことができる。 And since the leather raw material 1 which gave the three-dimensional pattern using the pattern etc. which are conventionally used for the textile fabric can be used as it is, it can contribute to development of the leather product with high design property.
Therefore, since many variations of the three-dimensional pattern that can be applied to the leather material 1 can be realized, a wide variety of design products are possible, and the demands of designers can be met.
Also, if the leather material 1 with pleated and bonded interlining 4 is cut as shown in the example, the original stretch of the leather can be stopped, and variations in size can be prevented to meet strict inspection standards in Japan. Can be produced.
Furthermore, in the past, it was unstable and difficult to sew together two stretchable leather materials. Sewing and shrinkage were likely to occur, and sewing failure was caused. Therefore, an anti-stretch tape was applied to each seam line. It was. However, if the leather material 1 to which the three-dimensional pattern processing method according to this embodiment is applied is used for one of the two sheets, the size is stabilized. This can be omitted and work efficiency can be improved.
And a product with a three-dimensional pattern on the leather material 1 does not stand out even if the leather material 1 is scratched, and the size can be stabilized by attaching the interlining 4 regardless of which part is cut. As a result, it is possible to effectively use the scratched leather material that has been disposed of in the past and reduce cutting loss.

なお、上述の実施形態は一例であって、皮革素材１の形状、これに施される立体模様、立体模様加工工程の方法、立体模様加工装置１０の構成、構造は、図例に限定されない。例えば保形処理（図１・Ｓ２〜Ｓ４）で用いられる芯地４にしても、接着部４１はホットメルトに限定されない。さらに例えば芯地４の基布４０として、防臭性、防かび性、防水性など機能性を有したものを用いれば、皮革素材１をかばん等に用いた場合、所望する機能を持ったものとすることができる。また、本実施形態に係る立体模様加工方法を行うことができる皮革素材１は、染色されたものでもよいし、ヌメ革、オイルレザー、ブラインドルレザー、スエード、ヌバック、型押し革等あらゆる加工方法によってすでに加工された皮革素材に適用することができる。   In addition, the above-mentioned embodiment is an example, Comprising: The shape of the leather raw material 1, the three-dimensional pattern given to this, the method of a three-dimensional pattern processing process, the structure of the three-dimensional pattern processing apparatus 10, and a structure are not limited to a figure example. For example, even in the interlining 4 used in the shape retention process (FIG. 1, S2 to S4), the bonding portion 41 is not limited to hot melt. Further, for example, if the base fabric 40 of the interlining 4 is used with functionalities such as deodorant, antifungal, and waterproof, when the leather material 1 is used for a bag or the like, it has a desired function. can do. Further, the leather material 1 capable of performing the three-dimensional pattern processing method according to the present embodiment may be dyed or any processing method such as ume leather, oil leather, blindle leather, suede, nubuck, and embossed leather. Can be applied to already processed leather material.

１ 皮革素材
１ａ 表面
１ｂ 裏面
４ 芯地
１０ 立体模様加工装置
１１ 加工台
１１ａ 支持面
１１ｂ 支持部材
１２ 加圧プレス手段 DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Leather material 1a Front surface 1b Back surface 4 Interlining 10 Three-dimensional pattern processing apparatus 11 Processing base 11a Support surface 11b Support member 12 Pressure press means

Claims (5)

立体模様が施された皮革素材を準備する工程と、
この皮革素材を加熱蒸気に晒した状態で、該皮革素材の裏面側に芯地を貼付け、前記皮革素材の表面を弾性力のある平坦な支持面に載置して、該皮革素材を、芯地の上面から所定時間加圧して保形処理する工程とを備えた、皮革素材の立体模様加工方法。 Preparing a leather material with a three-dimensional pattern;
In a state where the leather material is exposed to heated steam, a core is pasted on the back side of the leather material, the surface of the leather material is placed on a flat support surface having elasticity, and the leather material is A method for processing a three-dimensional pattern of a leather material, comprising a step of pressurizing from the upper surface of the ground for a predetermined time to perform shape retention. 請求項１において、
前記皮革素材は、折込による模様型紙を上、下より挟み込んで、プリーツ立体模様が施されていることを特徴とする皮革素材の立体模様加工方法。 In claim 1,
A three-dimensional pattern processing method for a leather material, wherein the leather material is provided with a pleated three-dimensional pattern by sandwiching a pattern paper by folding from above and below. 請求項１において、
前記皮革素材は、型押しによる立体模様が施されていることを特徴とする皮革素材の立体模様加工方法。 In claim 1,
A three-dimensional pattern processing method for a leather material, wherein the leather material is given a three-dimensional pattern by embossing. 請求項１または請求項２に記載の皮革素材の立体模様加工方法によって製造されたことを特徴とする皮革素材。   A leather material manufactured by the three-dimensional pattern processing method for a leather material according to claim 1 or 2. 加圧面を有した加圧プレス手段と、弾性力のある平坦な支持面を有した加工台と、
皮革素材に、所定温度の蒸気を噴霧するスチーム手段とを少なくとも組み合わせて構成され、請求項１または請求項２に記載の皮革素材の立体模様加工方法に用いられる立体模様加工装置。 A pressure pressing means having a pressure surface, a work table having a flat support surface having elasticity,
The three-dimensional pattern processing apparatus used in the three-dimensional pattern processing method for a leather material according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the leather material is combined with at least steam means for spraying steam at a predetermined temperature.
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JPS6361360B2 (en) * 1985-01-22 1988-11-29
JPH0884872A (en) * 1994-09-19 1996-04-02 Araco Corp Seat cover structure
JP2003334116A (en) * 2002-05-18 2003-11-25 Shiro Nakamura Device for preventing books from falling down
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JPS6361360B2 (en) * 1985-01-22 1988-11-29
JPH0884872A (en) * 1994-09-19 1996-04-02 Araco Corp Seat cover structure
JP2003334116A (en) * 2002-05-18 2003-11-25 Shiro Nakamura Device for preventing books from falling down
WO2007125813A1 (en) * 2006-04-24 2007-11-08 Shiborian Co., Ltd. Three-dimensional shape base material, production methods of furniture, bags, covers and three-dimensional shape base material using it

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN112863323A (en) * 2019-11-12 2021-05-28 Ok技术株式会社 Method for attaching metal logo and badge to leather product

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