JP2004344651A - Method for manufacturing accessory in which metal is cast to surround gem, and gem suited thereto - Google Patents

Method for manufacturing accessory in which metal is cast to surround gem, and gem suited thereto Download PDF

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JP2004344651A
JP2004344651A JP2004139330A JP2004139330A JP2004344651A JP 2004344651 A JP2004344651 A JP 2004344651A JP 2004139330 A JP2004139330 A JP 2004139330A JP 2004139330 A JP2004139330 A JP 2004139330A JP 2004344651 A JP2004344651 A JP 2004344651A
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jewelry
colorant
containing layer
metal
stone
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JP4707968B2 (en
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Rudolf Altenberger
アルテンバーガー ルドルフ
Michael Huter
ミハエル フーター
Thomas Rauch
トーマス ローチ
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D Swarovski KG
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00Metal working
    • Y10T29/49Method of mechanical manufacture
    • Y10T29/49588Jewelry or locket making
    • Y10T29/4959Human adornment device making

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  • Other Surface Treatments For Metallic Materials (AREA)

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for manufacturing an accessory by a casting method wherein a change in a coloring agent-containing layer considered to occur at the time of casting a metal around a gem is minimized. <P>SOLUTION: The method for manufacturing an accessory by casting a metal to surround a gem comprises steps of covering the gem with the coloring agent-containing layer before casting the metal, and subjecting the coloring agent-containing layer to a high energy process while the coloring agent-containing layer is being applied or after applied to prevent a change in the coloring agent-containing layer at the time of casting the metal around the gem. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2005,JPO&NCIPI

Description

本発明は、宝飾石を取囲むように金属を鋳込むことによって装身具を製造するための方法、及びこれに適した宝飾石に関する。   The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing an ornament by casting a metal around a jewel stone, and a jewel stone suitable for the method.

一般に、宝飾石を使用した装身具は、装身具の一部(台)を別個に貴金属から製造し、それを細工職人の手によって宝飾石と組合わせて形成されるが、この細工職人の手による装身具の製造方法ではコスト的に割り高となって、相対的に安価な宝飾石に適用できる装身具の製造方法ではない。これに対して、宝飾石を取囲むように金属を鋳込むことによって装身具を製造する方法は、細工職人の手を煩わせることがないため、相対的に安価な宝飾石を使用した装身具の製造に適している。   In general, jewelry using jewelry stone is manufactured by separately manufacturing a part (stand) of jewelry from precious metal and combining it with jewelry stone by a craftsman's hand. However, this method is relatively expensive, and is not a method of manufacturing accessories that can be applied to relatively inexpensive jewelry stones. On the other hand, the method of manufacturing jewelry by casting metal so as to surround the jewelry stone does not require the craftsman's hands, and therefore, the manufacture of jewelry using relatively inexpensive jewelry stones Suitable for.

宝飾石を取囲むように金属を鋳込むことによって装身具を製造する方法に使用される宝飾石として特に考えられるのは、本来の色調が人為的に補強または変化させられた石である。宝飾石の色調の変更には2つの基本的に異なった方法を利用することができる。すなわち、着色剤を宝飾石の内部に拡散させるか、または有色のたとえば顔料含有層を宝飾石と密着結合させることで可能である。   Particularly considered as jewelry stones used in the method of manufacturing jewelry by casting metal around the jewelry stones are stones whose natural colors have been artificially reinforced or altered. Two fundamentally different methods can be used to change the color of the jewelry stone. That is, it is possible by diffusing the colorant into the interior of the jewelry stone or by tightly bonding a colored, for example, pigment-containing layer to the jewelry stone.

ここでは、工業的量産にはるかに適していることから、後者の方法による着色のみに注目する。たとえば、特許文献1から、酸化コバルト、酸化アルミニウム、酸化ケイ素の蒸着によって本体に青い着色剤含有層を被着することが知られている。これらの着色剤含有層は、酸素含有雰囲気中で約300°Cにて約30分間にわたって加熱処理されはするが、冒頭に述べた、宝飾石を取囲むように金属を鋳込むことによって装身具を製造する方法の条件下では安定しない。   Here, we focus only on the latter method of coloring, as it is much more suitable for industrial mass production. For example, it is known from US Pat. No. 6,059,097 to deposit a blue colorant-containing layer on the body by vapor deposition of cobalt oxide, aluminum oxide, silicon oxide. These colorant-containing layers are heat-treated in an oxygen-containing atmosphere at about 300 ° C. for about 30 minutes, but the jewelry is cast by casting metal around the jewelry stone as described at the beginning. It is not stable under the conditions of the manufacturing method.

着色剤含有層の被着された宝飾石は、着色剤含有層の被着中または被着後に該着色剤含有層が高エネルギ処理に付されるが、驚くべきことに、この着色剤含有層に対する高エネルギ処理によって、宝飾石の周囲への金属鋳込み時における高エネルギ処理が施されても、宝飾石の周囲への金属鋳込み時に生ずると考えられる着色剤含有層の変化が抑止され、鋳込み法で十分加工し得ることが見出されたのである。   The jewelry stone with the colorant-containing layer applied thereto is subjected to a high energy treatment during or after the application of the colorant-containing layer. , The change in the colorant-containing layer, which is considered to occur at the time of casting the metal around the jewelry stone, is suppressed even when the high energy treatment is performed at the time of casting the metal around the jewelry stone. It has been found that can be processed sufficiently.

冒頭に述べた装身具の製造に際し、宝飾石は、先ずやや長時間にわたり、鋳込まれた貴金属によって最終的に置換される蝋型が完全に焼失する温度にさらされる。この温度は750°Cのレベルにある。続いて宝飾石の表面は貴金属の鋳込み時に、該貴金属が銀ならば950〜1050°C、金ならば950〜1250°C、プラチナならば1800〜1900°Cの温度に加熱される。以下に実施例に基づいて論ずるように、金属鋳込み時になお生ずる色調変化を最小限に抑止するには、着色剤含有層の被着された宝飾石を、金属鋳込み温度にさらされる時間を短縮するか、あるいは長時間にわたって蝋型の焼失温度に加熱するか、の少なくともいずれか一方を満足させることができれば十分である。
米国特許第3837884号[US3837884](バルザース[Balzers])
In the manufacture of the jewelry mentioned at the outset, the jewelry stone is first exposed for a somewhat longer time to a temperature at which the wax mold finally replaced by the cast noble metal is completely burned off. This temperature is at a level of 750 ° C. Subsequently, the surface of the jewelry stone is heated to a temperature of 950 to 1,050 ° C if the noble metal is silver, 950 to 1250 ° C if the noble metal is gold, or 1800 to 1900 ° C if the noble metal is platinum. As discussed below based on the examples, to minimize the color change that still occurs during metal casting, the jewelry stone with the colorant-containing layer is exposed to a reduced time for metal casting temperature. It is sufficient if at least one of the heating and / or heating to the burning temperature of the wax mold is satisfied for a long time.
U.S. Pat. No. 3,837,884 [US3378684] (Balzers)

本発明は、以上のような実状に鑑みてなされたもので、その解決しようとする課題は、宝飾石の周囲への金属鋳込み時に生ずると考えられる着色剤含有層の変化を最小限に抑止するようにして、鋳込み法で加工し得る装身具の製造方法、及びこれに適した宝飾石を提供することにある。   The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and a problem to be solved is to minimize a change in a colorant-containing layer which is considered to occur at the time of metal casting around a jewelry stone. Thus, an object of the present invention is to provide a method of manufacturing an ornament that can be processed by a casting method, and a jewelry stone suitable for the method.

以上の課題を解決するために、まず、請求項いに係る発明の採った手段は、
「宝飾石を取囲むように金属を鋳込むことによって装身具を製造する方法において、金属鋳込み前の前記宝飾石に着色剤含有層を被着するとともに、この着色剤含有層の被着中または被着後にこの着色剤含有層に高エネルギ処理を付すことにより、前記宝飾石周囲への金属鋳込み時に前記着色剤含有層の変化をもたらさないようにしたことを特徴とする装身具の製造方法」
であり、請求項2に係る発明は、上記請求項1に記載の装身具の製造方法について、
「前記の高エネルギ処理は1〜20分間にわたり950°C〜1250°Cの温度に加熱することを含むこと」
としたことであり、請求項3に係る発明は、上記請求項1または請求項2に記載の装身具の製造方法について、
「前記の高エネルギ処理は少なくとも1時間にわたって700°C〜800°Cの温度で加熱処理することを含むこと」
である。
In order to solve the above problems, first, means taken by the claimed invention is:
"In a method of manufacturing a jewelry by casting a metal around a jewelry stone, a colorant-containing layer is applied to the jewelry stone before metal casting, and during or during application of the colorant-containing layer. A method for manufacturing an ornament, wherein the colorant-containing layer is subjected to a high energy treatment after being worn, so that the colorant-containing layer is not changed when the metal is cast around the jewelry stone. "
The invention according to claim 2 is directed to a method for manufacturing an accessory according to claim 1 described above.
"The high energy treatment comprises heating to a temperature of 950 ° C to 1250 ° C for 1 to 20 minutes.”
According to a third aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method for manufacturing an accessory according to the first or second aspect,
"The high energy treatment includes heat treatment at a temperature of 700 ° C. to 800 ° C. for at least one hour.”
It is.

また、請求項4に係る発明の採った手段は、上記請求項1から3までのいずれか1項に記載の装身具の製造方法について、
「前記の着色剤含有層には保護被膜が被着されること」
であり、請求項5に係る発明の採った手段は、上記請求項4に記載の装身具の製造方法について、
「前記の保護被膜にはLi、Mg、Zn、B、Ce、Ti、Si、ZrまたはAlが含まれていること」
としたことである。
According to a fourth aspect of the present invention, there is provided a method for manufacturing an accessory according to any one of the first to third aspects.
"A protective film is applied to the colorant-containing layer."
Means adopted by the invention according to claim 5 is the method according to claim 4, wherein
"The protective coating contains Li, Mg, Zn, B, Ce, Ti, Si, Zr or Al."
It was that.

さらに、請求項6に係る発明の採った手段は、上記請求項1から5までのいずれか1項に記載の装身具の製造方法について、
「宝飾石と着色剤含有層との間につなぎ層が配置されること」
であり、請求項7に係る発明の採った手段は、上記請求項1から6までのいずれか1項に記載の装身具の製造方法について、
「宝飾石1の裏面2は鋳込まれた金属4によって形成されたリング3によって保護されること」
である。
Further, the means adopted by the invention according to claim 6 is the method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein
"A tie layer is placed between the jewelry stone and the colorant-containing layer."
The means adopted by the invention according to claim 7 is the method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein
"The back surface 2 of the jewelry stone 1 is protected by the ring 3 formed by the cast metal 4"
It is.

そして、請求項8に係る発明の採った手段は、
「金属の鋳込みによる装身具の製造に適した宝飾石において、この宝飾石に被着され、それ自体として色が変化し得る着色剤含有層に対して高エネルギ処理を施すことにより、前記着色剤含有層の色が1250°C以下の温度への加熱時にもはや大幅に変化しないようにしたことを特徴とする宝飾石」
である。
The means adopted by the invention according to claim 8 is as follows:
"In a jewelry stone suitable for the manufacture of jewelry by casting metal, a high-energy treatment is applied to the colorant-containing layer that is attached to the jewelry stone and that can change its color as such, thereby containing the colorant-containing material. Jewelry stone, characterized in that the color of the layer no longer changes significantly when heated to temperatures below 1250 ° C. "
It is.

以上の通り、本発明においては、
「宝飾石を取囲むように金属を鋳込むことによって装身具を製造する方法において、金属鋳込み前の前記宝飾石に着色剤含有層を被着するとともに、この着色剤含有層の被着中または被着後にこの着色剤含有層に高エネルギ処理を付すことにより、前記宝飾石周囲への金属鋳込み時に前記着色剤含有層の変化をもたらさないようにしたこと」
にその構成上の主たる特徴があり、これにより、宝飾石の周囲への金属鋳込み時に着色剤含有層の変化を最小限に抑止することができて、鋳込み法で加工し得る装身具の製造方法を提供することができるのである。
As described above, in the present invention,
"In a method of manufacturing a jewelry by casting a metal around a jewelry stone, a colorant-containing layer is applied to the jewelry stone before metal casting, and during or during application of the colorant-containing layer. By applying a high-energy treatment to the colorant-containing layer after wearing, the colorant-containing layer is prevented from changing when the metal is cast around the jewelry stone. "
There is a main feature in its configuration, and thereby, it is possible to minimize the change in the colorant-containing layer at the time of metal casting around the jewelry stone, and to provide a method of manufacturing an ornament that can be processed by the casting method. It can be provided.

また、本発明においては、
「金属の鋳込みによる装身具の製造に適した宝飾石において、この宝飾石に被着され、それ自体として色が変化し得る着色剤含有層に対して高エネルギ処理を施すことにより、前記着色剤含有層の色が1250°C以下の温度への加熱時にもはや大幅に変化しないようにしたことを特徴とする宝飾石」
にその構成上の特徴があり、これにより、宝飾石の周囲への金属鋳込み時に着色剤含有層の変化を最小限に抑止することができて、鋳込み法で加工し得る装身具の製造方法を実施できるようにした宝飾石を提供することができるのである。
In the present invention,
"In a jewelry stone suitable for the manufacture of jewelry by casting metal, a high-energy treatment is applied to the colorant-containing layer that is attached to the jewelry stone and that can change its color as such, thereby containing the colorant-containing material. Jewelry stone, characterized in that the color of the layer no longer changes significantly when heated to temperatures below 1250 ° C. "
Has a feature in its configuration, thereby implementing a method of manufacturing accessories that can minimize the change of the colorant-containing layer when casting metal around the jewelry stone and can be processed by the casting method. Jewelry stones that can be provided can be provided.

以下に、図面ないし実施例を参照して、本発明のその他の詳細を詳しく説明する。   Hereinafter, other details of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the drawings and embodiments.

宝飾石の周囲への金属の鋳込みによる装身具の製造はそれ自体公知に属する。図1に示したように、宝飾石1は成形材料5の中に埋め込まれ、他方、金属枠用の場所確保材としてさしあたり蝋6が使用される。続いて蝋6は約750°Cへの加熱によって追い出され、こうして図2に示した空洞7が生ずる。この空洞7には最後に図3に示したように、宝飾石1を取囲む金属4が充填される。   The production of jewelry by casting metal around jewelry stones is known per se. As shown in FIG. 1, the jewelry stone 1 is embedded in a molding material 5, while a wax 6 is used as a securing material for the metal frame. Subsequently, the wax 6 is expelled by heating to about 750 ° C., thus creating the cavity 7 shown in FIG. This cavity 7 is finally filled with a metal 4 surrounding the jewelry stone 1, as shown in FIG.

装身具の一例として図1〜3には指輪が表されているが、ただし本発明は宝飾石の表面、特にその裏面2(図4、参照)に、金属4の鋳込みによって損傷され得るような着色剤含有層が被着されているのであれば常に適用することが可能である。   A ring is shown as an example of the accessory in FIGS. If the agent-containing layer is applied, it can always be applied.

本発明による装身具の製造方法を適用するための前提条件は先ず、宝飾石自体が金属の鋳込み時にその光学的特性を保持していることである。たとえばガラスや水晶には耐熱着色剤含有層を容易に被着することができるとはいえ、通常のガラスでは前記の温度に際して融解してしまうであろう。水晶は蝋を焼失させるための通例の温度ですでに曇りを生じてしまうであろう。   A prerequisite for applying the method for manufacturing an accessory according to the present invention is that the jewelry stone itself retains its optical properties when the metal is cast. For example, glass or quartz can easily be coated with a heat-resistant colorant-containing layer, but ordinary glass will melt at the above temperatures. Quartz will already be clouded at the usual temperatures for burning off wax.

そこで、基本的に適した宝飾石、たとえば酸化ジルコニウムに着色剤含有層が被着される。このために最もよく使用される方法は物理蒸着、スパッタ、化学蒸着等である。特に反応性スパッタにより、加熱が容易な支持体に大半の無機顔料を比較的低温でも直接に被着することが可能である。   There, a colorant-containing layer is applied to basically suitable jewelry stones, for example zirconium oxide. The most commonly used methods for this are physical vapor deposition, sputtering, chemical vapor deposition and the like. In particular, reactive sputtering allows most inorganic pigments to be directly applied to relatively easily heated supports at relatively low temperatures.

宝飾石の着色には特に、無機有色顔料として基本的組成の知られている着色剤、特に、“条痕”を有する無機材料が適していると考えられる。こうした着色剤はセラミック釉がけならびにガラスの表面着色に関連して知られている。特に、ルチル−スズ石型構造、ジルコン型構造、バデレイ石型構造、コランダム-赤鉄鉱型構造、カンラン石型構造、スピネル型構造、ざくろ石型構造および灰チタン石型構造を有した酸化物系顔料ベースの着色剤含有層が適切である。窒化物系および特に酸窒化物系顔料ベースの着色剤含有層も同じくこの装身具の製造方法に非常に適していると思われ、また炭化物系および酸化炭素系ベースの着色剤含有層もそうである。硫化物系、硫酸塩系、リン酸塩系、シアン化合物系ならびに金属コロイド系ベースの着色剤含有層は特別な包埋を必要とするが、これらは鋳込み温度近傍もしくは鋳込み温度をぎりぎり下回る融点を有している場合にも適している。   It is considered that a coloring agent having a basic composition known as an inorganic colored pigment, particularly an inorganic material having "streaks", is particularly suitable for coloring jewelry stone. Such colorants are known in connection with ceramic glazes as well as glass surface coloring. In particular, an oxide system having a rutile-stannite type structure, a zircon type structure, a baddeleyite type structure, a corundum-hemite structure, an olivine type structure, a spinel type structure, a garnet type structure and a perovskite type structure A pigment-based colorant-containing layer is suitable. Colorant-containing layers based on nitrides and especially oxynitride pigments also appear to be very suitable for the process of making this accessory, as are colorant-containing layers based on carbides and carbon oxides. . Colorant-containing layers based on sulfides, sulfates, phosphates, cyanides, and metal colloids require special embedding, which have melting points near or just below the casting temperature. It is also suitable if you have one.

このようにして準備された宝飾石が図1〜3に示した装身具の製造方法で引き続き加工された場合には、好ましくないしかも非常に不都合な宝飾石の色変を生ずることとなろう。こうした色変は米国宝石学会[Gemological Institure of America]の“着色石格付け制度[Colored Stone Grading System]”に準拠して数値化される。この場合、色相、“色調”(明暗)および彩度が評価される。本発明によって達成される効果の主眼は、着色皮膜の特別な後処理がなければ前記の基準の少なくともいずれか一つにつき金属鋳込み時に2ポイント以上の変化を生ずると考えられる石が今や最高でも2ポイント、通例せいぜい1ポイントのずれしか示さない点にある。これは蝋型の焼失時と金属の鋳込み時に生ずる負荷を先取りする高エネルギ処理によって達成される。   If the jewelry stones prepared in this way were subsequently processed by the method of making jewelry shown in FIGS. 1 to 3, it would result in an undesirable and very inconvenient color change of the jewelry stones. These color changes are quantified in accordance with the "Colored Stone Grading System" of the Geological Institute of America. In this case, the hue, “hue” (light and dark) and saturation are evaluated. The main effect of the present invention is that stones, which would otherwise produce more than two points of change during metal casting for at least one of the above criteria without special post-treatment of the colored coating, are now at most 2 The point is that it typically shows at most one point shift. This is achieved by a high energy treatment which preempts the loads which occur during the burning out of the wax mold and during the casting of the metal.

続いて以下に、本発明による装身具の製造方法を実施するための幾つかの例を示す。その際、使用される顔料の表示は米国化学学会のCAS登録番号の記載によって行う。高温用に適した顔料はウルマン[Ullmann]、工業化学百科事典1986、A5巻、特にp.546/547に挙げられている。これらの着色剤含有層はすべて本発明により直接にかまたは適切な中間層、包埋層または被覆層の選定により金属鋳込み時にもはや色変しないようにして作り出すことができる。   Next, several examples for carrying out the method for manufacturing an accessory according to the present invention will be described below. In this case, the pigment used is indicated by the description of the CAS registration number of the American Chemical Society. Pigments suitable for high temperatures are listed in Ullmann, Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry 1986, Volume A5, especially pages 546/547. All of these colorant-containing layers can be produced according to the invention either directly or by the selection of a suitable intermediate layer, embedding layer or covering layer so that they no longer discolor during metal casting.

例1 (比較試験)
立方体のジルコニアに、上述した特許文献1に記載の方法に従って、約35重量%の酸化コバルト、10%の酸化アルミニウム、残りは酸化ケイ素から成る層が蒸着によって被着された。続いての熱処理により層の着青が実現された。この着色剤含有層の被着された宝飾石に後処理なしで金属鋳込みを行った場合、14ctイエローゴールド合金の鋳込み温度(約1050°C)にて宝飾石の色変が生じた。
Example 1 (Comparative test)
A layer consisting of about 35% by weight of cobalt oxide, 10% of aluminum oxide and the balance silicon oxide was deposited by vapor deposition on cubic zirconia according to the method described in the above-mentioned patent document. Subsequent heat treatment resulted in the layer bluening. When metal casting was performed on the jewelry stone with the colorant-containing layer applied thereto without post-treatment, the color change of the jewelry stone occurred at a casting temperature of 14 ct yellow gold alloy (about 1050 ° C.).

新たに、被着済みの宝飾石が10分間にわたり1200°Cに加熱され、続いて1時間にわたって750°C(蝋型焼失温度に相当)にて加熱処理された。前記の熱処理により、14ctパラジウム−ホワイトゴールド合金の鋳込み温度(1250°C)時にも一度として爾後の変化は生じなかった。   The newly applied jewelry stone was heated to 1200 ° C. for 10 minutes, followed by heat treatment at 750 ° C. (corresponding to the wax-type burnout temperature) for 1 hour. Due to the above heat treatment, no further change occurred once even at the casting temperature (1250 ° C.) of the 14 ct palladium-white gold alloy.

例2 (比較試験)
ジルコニアにCAS 68186−85−6の組成の顔料(緑色セン晶石、Co2TiO4)がやや過剰のTio2とともに反応性スパッタにより低温にて蒸着された。14ctパラジウム−ホワイトゴールド合金の鋳込み時に明確に視認可能な緑色被着層の色変が生じた。
Example 2 (Comparative test)
A pigment of the composition CAS 68186-85-6 (green sensite, Co 2 TiO 4 ) was deposited on zirconia at a low temperature by reactive sputtering with a slight excess of TiO 2 . During casting of the 14 ct palladium-white gold alloy, a clearly visible color change of the green deposited layer occurred.

これに対して、前記の層が1分間にわたり1200°Cで加熱処理された場合には、前記の宝飾石は鋳込み時に視認可能な色変を示さなかった。   In contrast, when the layer was heat treated at 1200 ° C. for one minute, the jewelry stone did not show a visible color change upon casting.

これに対して、1200°Cで調質された宝飾石が14ctイエローゴールド合金メルト中に鋳込まれた場合には、それにもかかわらず褐色がかった色変が生じた。この色変は着色剤含有層が合金と直接に接触していた周縁部でもっとも激しかった。   In contrast, when the jewelry stone tempered at 1200 ° C. was cast into a 14 ct yellow gold alloy melt, it nevertheless developed a brownish color change. This color change was most pronounced at the periphery where the colorant-containing layer was in direct contact with the alloy.

着色剤含有層にさらにアルミン酸マグネシウムから成る保護層が被着され、この宝飾石が1200°Cで加熱処理された場合には、高温のイエローゴールド合金と直接に接していた箇所でも色調の変化は生じなかった。   When a protective layer made of magnesium aluminate is further applied to the colorant-containing layer, and the jewelry stone is heated at 1200 ° C., the color tone changes even in a portion directly in contact with the high-temperature yellow gold alloy. Did not occur.

例3:
薄いSiO2層上に酸化鉄系顔料を酸化アルミニウムから成る包埋母材とともに被着することにより、顔料CAS 68187−35−9(渇鉄鉱、Fe23)ベースの着色剤含有層が温度安定化されかつ化学的・機械的耐性が付与されて形成された。1200°Cでの10分間にわたる処理に続いて750°Cにて2時間にわたる後処理が行われた。このようにして包埋されて熱処理された顔料の色調はもはや純粋な顔料の色と正確には同じではないが、その代わりこの色は金属鋳込み時にも変化しなかった。
Example 3:
Thin iron oxide pigment on the SiO 2 layer with embedding matrix consisting of aluminum oxide by depositing pigment CAS 68187-35-9 (渇鉄ore, Fe 2 O 3) based colorant-containing layer is temperature Formed with stabilized and chemical and mechanical resistance. A 10 minute treatment at 1200 ° C. was followed by a 2 hour post treatment at 750 ° C. The color tone of the pigments embedded and heat-treated in this way is no longer exactly the same as the color of the pure pigment, but instead this color does not change upon metal casting.

例4:
ジルコニアに顔料CAS 68187−05−3、組成式Co2SnO4の灰青スピネルによる被着が行われた。約125mmの顔料層は酸化アルミニウムから成る厚い保護層で被覆され、1分間にわたり1200°Cに加熱された。続いてこの宝飾石は空気中で30分間にわたって750°Cにて加熱処理された。生じた着色青は純銀中への鋳込み時にも保たれていた。
Example 4:
Zirconia was coated with a pigment CAS 68187-05-3 and a grayish blue spinel of the composition formula Co 2 SnO 4 . A pigment layer of about 125 mm was covered with a thick protective layer of aluminum oxide and heated to 1200 ° C. for 1 minute. The gemstone was then heat treated at 750 ° C. for 30 minutes in air. The resulting colored blue was retained during casting into pure silver.

前記の例のそれぞれにおいて、宝飾石の着色剤含有層は金属鋳込み時に生ずる温度によって損傷され得るだけではないとの点が明らかになった。むしろ宝飾石と着色剤含有層との間の界面および特に着色剤含有層の外面にも望ましくない変化が生じ得るが、そうした変化は分離層によって回避することが可能である。これによって特に、真正色の宝飾石の場合にも金属鋳込み時に光沢が損なわれ得るとの事実が顧慮される。   In each of the foregoing examples, it was found that the colorant-containing layer of the jewelry stone could not only be damaged by the temperatures that occur during metal casting. Rather, undesired changes may also occur at the interface between the gemstone and the colorant-containing layer, and especially at the outer surface of the colorant-containing layer, but such changes can be avoided by the separating layer. This takes into account, in particular, the fact that even in the case of authentic jewelry stones, the luster can be impaired during metal casting.

宝飾石の着色コートされた裏面も機械的作用、特に研磨材またはその他の装身具の衝撃作用ならびにダイアモンド砥粒の摩耗作用から保護しようとする場合には、図4に示したように、宝飾石の裏面が鋳込み金属によって形成されたリングによって取囲まれるようにすることができる。   If the colored coated back side of the jewelry stone is also to be protected from mechanical action, particularly the impact action of abrasives or other jewelry as well as the wear action of diamond abrasive grains, as shown in FIG. The back surface can be surrounded by a ring formed by a cast metal.

本発明による装身具の製造方法の第1段階を概略的に示した部分横断面図である。FIG. 3 is a partial cross-sectional view schematically illustrating a first step of the method for manufacturing an accessory according to the present invention. 本発明による装身具の製造方法の第2段階を概略的に示した部分横断面図である。FIG. 4 is a partial cross-sectional view schematically illustrating a second step of the method for manufacturing an ornament according to the present invention. 本発明による装身具の製造方法の第3段階を概略的に示した部分横断面図である。FIG. 4 is a partial cross-sectional view schematically illustrating a third step of the method for manufacturing an ornament according to the present invention. 本発明によって製造された装身具の部分拡大断面図である。FIG. 2 is a partially enlarged cross-sectional view of the accessory manufactured according to the present invention.

符号の説明Explanation of reference numerals

1 宝飾石
2 裏面
3 リング
4 金属
5 成形材料
6 蝋
7 空洞
DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Jewelry stone 2 Back 3 Ring 4 Metal 5 Molding material 6 Wax 7 Hollow

Claims (8)

宝飾石を取囲むように金属を鋳込むことによって装身具を製造する方法において、金属鋳込み前の前記宝飾石に着色剤含有層を被着するとともに、この着色剤含有層の被着中または被着後にこの着色剤含有層に高エネルギ処理を付すことにより、前記宝飾石周囲への金属鋳込み時に前記着色剤含有層の変化をもたらさないようにしたことを特徴とする装身具の製造方法。 A method of manufacturing a jewelry by casting metal around a jewelry stone, comprising applying a colorant-containing layer to the jewelry stone before metal casting, and during or during the application of the colorant-containing layer. A method of manufacturing an ornament, wherein the colorant-containing layer is subjected to high-energy treatment later so that the colorant-containing layer is not changed when the metal is cast around the jewelry stone. 前記の高エネルギ処理は1〜20分間にわたり950°C〜1250°Cの温度に加熱することを含むことを特徴とする請求項1に記載の装身具の製造方法。 The method of claim 1, wherein the high-energy processing includes heating to a temperature of 950 ° C. to 1250 ° C. for 1 to 20 minutes. 前記の高エネルギ処理は少なくとも1時間にわたって700°C〜800°Cの温度で加熱処理することを含むことを特徴とする請求項1または2に記載の装身具の製造方法。 The method for manufacturing an accessory according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the high-energy treatment includes heating at a temperature of 700 ° C to 800 ° C for at least one hour. 前記の着色剤含有層には保護被膜が被着されることを特徴とする請求項1から3までのいずれか1項に記載の装身具の製造方法。 The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein a protective coating is applied to the colorant-containing layer. 前記の保護被膜にはLi、Mg、Zn、B、Ce、Ti、Si、ZrまたはAlが含まれていることを特徴とする請求項4に記載の装身具の製造方法。 5. The method for manufacturing an ornament according to claim 4, wherein the protective coating contains Li, Mg, Zn, B, Ce, Ti, Si, Zr or Al. 宝飾石と着色剤含有層との間につなぎ層が配置されることを特徴とする請求項1から5までのいずれか1項に記載の装身具の製造方法。 The method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein a tie layer is disposed between the jewel stone and the colorant-containing layer. 宝飾石1の裏面2は鋳込まれた金属4によって形成されたリング3によって保護されることを特徴とする請求項1から6までのいずれか1項に記載の装身具の製造方法。 7. The method for manufacturing an ornament according to claim 1, wherein the back surface 2 of the jewel stone 1 is protected by a ring 3 formed by a cast metal 4. 金属の鋳込みによる装身具の製造に適した宝飾石において、この宝飾石に被着され、それ自体として色が変化し得る着色剤含有層に対して高エネルギ処理を施すことにより、前記着色剤含有層の色が1250°C以下の温度への加熱時にもはや大幅に変化しないようにしたことを特徴とする宝飾石。 In a jewelry stone suitable for manufacturing jewelry by casting metal, a high-energy treatment is performed on the colorant-containing layer that is attached to the jewelry stone and that can change its color as such, whereby the colorant-containing layer is formed. The jewelry stone is characterized in that the color of the jewelry no longer changes significantly when heated to temperatures below 1250 ° C.
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