JP2004277908A - Polyester machine sewing thread for embroidery - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a polyester machine sewing thread which is used for embroidery, has high grade gloss on an embroidering sewing work, having not been obtained by conventional polyester machine sewing threads, has a beautiful color, and is free from the breakage of the thread and the deterioration in the grade of an appearance on the embroidering sewing work. <P>SOLUTION: This polyester machine sewing thread has beautiful colors, good gloss, good appearance grade, practical durability and good a sewable property, is especially suitable for the embroidery, and especially has a high grade touch calm gloss not haven by conventional polyester machine sewing threads. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2005,JPO&NCIPI

Description

【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、刺繍縫製時に高級感のある光沢を有し、かつ色目の綺麗な刺繍用ポリエステルミシン糸に関するものである。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
従来、刺繍用ミシン糸には、染色性、光沢などの良さから絹やレーヨンが用いられてきた。しかし、絹は高価であると共に耐光堅牢度や強度の弱さから和装などの用途に限定されている一方、レーヨンは染色性及び発色性の良さ、加工品の外観品位の良さから多く利用されているが、強度が低いため撚糸工程や縫製時の糸切れが多いという欠点がある。更には縫製された刺繍製品は家庭洗濯や工業洗濯で腑化しやすいという欠点がある。かかる欠点を解決するためポリエステルフィラメント糸を用いたミシン糸が提案されている。
【０００３】
例えば、結晶性を規制したポリマーを用いて、強度、モジュラスを想定したミシン糸が提案されている（特許文献１参照）。しかしながら、このポリエステルミシン糸を用いて刺繍したものは縫目にループ状のいわゆるタオル目を形成しやすく外観品位を著しく損なうという欠点がある。また、アミン処理による手切れ性の良いミシン糸が提案されているが、光沢に欠けるなどの問題がある（特許文献２参照）。また、単繊維繊度、全繊度、フィラメント数及び撚係数を規制して摩擦抵抗を減らしタオル目を形成しにくくしたミシン糸が提案されているが、刺繍用ミシン糸において重要な評価項目である光沢について定性的評価のみであり、また繊維長手方向の染め斑も発生する欠点のあるものであった（特許文献３参照）。
【０００４】
【特許文献１】
特開昭５９−１９９８３１号公報（特許請求の範囲）
【０００５】
【特許文献２】
特開昭６３−３１５６３３号公報（特許請求の範囲）
【０００６】
【特許文献３】
特開昭６２−１２５０３３号公報（特許請求の範囲）
【０００７】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明は、かかる問題点を解消し、特に、光沢が良好な、かつ繊維長手方向に染め斑のない高品位な刺繍用ミシン糸を提供することにある。
【０００８】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明は上記課題を解決するために次の構成を有する。すなわち、繊維長手方向の染着バラツキが０．８以下で、光沢の強さが３５〜７０であり、かつ交絡を有するポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸からなる刺繍用ポリエステルミシン糸である。
【０００９】
【発明の実施の形態】
本発明のミシン糸に使用するポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を構成するポリマーは、エチレンテレフタレートを主たる繰り返し単位とするポリマーである。本発明のポリエステルもしくはポリエチレンテレフタレートは、本発明の原糸特性を満足できる範囲で第３成分を共重合させたものであってもかまわない。また、必要に応じて制電剤、艶消剤、紫外線吸収剤、染色性改良剤、各種顔料等の添加物を混入せしめてもかまわない。
【００１０】
色目の綺麗な刺繍製品を提供するために、繊維長手方向の染着バラツキは０．８以下でなければならない。より好ましくは０．６以下が望ましい。染着バラツキの測定方法については、後述する。
【００１１】
レーヨンの有するいぶし銀の光沢に近い高級感のある光沢を得るために、光沢の強さは３５〜７０の範囲でなければならない。光沢の強さの測定方法については、後述する。光沢が３５〜７０の場合には、刺繍縫製時に華やかな光沢のある刺繍製品が得られる。３５未満では刺繍糸に求められる華やかな光沢が得られず、他方、７０を超える場合には刺繍糸のイラツキが強くなり落ち着いた光沢の刺繍製品が得られない。従って、光沢の強さは３５〜７０の範囲でなければならない。より好ましくは４５〜６５の範囲が望ましい。
【００１２】
また、ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を収束させることにより縫製時のタオル目の発生を防ぎ刺繍製品の品位を向上せしめるため、交絡数は５以上、より好ましくは８以上が好ましい。交絡付与の具体的手段としては、一般的なインターレースノズルにより糸条に交絡を付与する方法が望ましい。
【００１３】
単繊維断面形状は、繊維に光沢を付与するために異形断面とするものであるが、良好な光沢を付与するために、外周が凸部と凹部で交互に形成される楕円多葉断面とするものであり、楕円四葉形以上のものを指す。また、八葉形以下の断面を有するものが、レーヨンの有するいぶし銀の光沢により近い光沢を発現するので好ましい。とりわけ、楕円八葉形状の断面を有する場合には高級感のある光沢が得られ、より好ましい。
【００１４】
なお、断面形状の変形は次の範囲が好ましい。すなわち、図１に示すように長径Ａと短径Ｂの比Ａ／Ｂで定義される扁平度が１．２〜１．８である。
【００１５】
次に、長径Ａの直線に直角に交わる直線のうち２番目に長いもの短径Ｃと３番目に長いもの短径Ｄの比Ｃ／Ｄを異形度Ｉとし、その範囲が１．０〜１．３である。
【００１６】
また、短径Ｂと短径Ｄの比Ｂ／Ｄを異形度ＩＩとし、その範囲が１．０〜１．６である
なお、このほかに代表的な異形断面形状として扁平断面や三葉断面が挙げられるが、いずれもぎらついた光沢しか得ることができず、本発明の目的である落ち着いた光沢が得られない。また、繊維内での結晶化が進みやすく内層部の非晶部は小さいものとなり、染着性が劣るものとなる。これに対し本発明の楕円多葉形のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は繊維外層部に対し内層部の結晶化を遅らせることにより大きい非晶部が得られ、より染着性が良好となり繊維長手方向の染着バラツキの少ない刺繍糸用ポリエステルミシン糸が得られるものである。
【００１７】
ポリエステルフィラメント糸の引張強度は、強力不足による縫製時の糸切れを防止する観点から２．７ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ以上、より好ましくは３．０ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ以上が好ましい。
【００１８】
また、ミシン糸強力は、縫製時の手切れ性の点から、１．７５〜９．８Ｎの範囲が好ましく、可縫製が良好で縫い目の糸が美しく配列しやすい平滑性に富む糸条がミシン糸用の刺繍糸として望ましいのである。そのため、一般的にはミシン糸加工の最終工程でシリコーンなどの仕上げ油剤を表面に付与しているが、本質的には糸と糸の走行時の摩擦係数が小さいことが効果的であり、糸の配列が乱れることを防止するとともに、糸の滑りを良くし、タオル目（ループ）や縫製後の収縮が発現する事を防止する観点から、ポリエステルフィラメント糸の糸・糸走行摩擦係数は０．１５〜０．３の範囲が望ましく、より好ましくは０．１５〜０．２４の範囲が望ましい。
【００１９】
刺繍用ポリエステルミシン糸の原料であるポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は、高速で紡糸することにより繊維内層部に対して繊維外層部の結晶化がより進む。すなわち紡速をあげるほど繊維内外層の結晶化度に格差が生じ、通常の紡糸・延伸の２工程法で得られるポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸に対し繊維内層の非結晶部分は大きくなるので染料が容易に入り込み易くなり良好な染色性が得られると共に繊維長手方向での染着バラツキが小さくなると考える。
【００２０】
本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は、紡速５０００ｍ／ｍｉｎ以上で紡糸することにより、得ることができる。より好ましくは５５００ｍ／ｍｉｎ以上６５００ｍ／ｍｉｎ以下である。
【００２１】
ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は、刺繍縫製後にミシン糸自身の収縮によるパッカリングが発生し刺繍製品の品位を著しく低下させるため、ポリエステルフィラメント糸の乾熱収縮率は５％以下が好ましい。
【００２２】
単繊維繊度は０．５ｄｔｅｘ以上とすることが、得られたミシン糸が縫製時に発生する摩擦熱による溶断や、縫製時にかかる異常張力に起因する単繊維切れを抑制でき好ましい。他方、単繊維繊度は３．３ｄｔｅｘ以下とすることで、得られたミシン糸の風合いが柔らかくなり、刺繍生地とのなじみが良く、糸が浮き上がることがない刺繍になり好ましい。これらの観点から、ミシン糸用原糸の単繊維繊度は０．５〜３．３ｄｔｅｘの範囲が好ましく、また、ミシン糸の座屈性を高くする観点からは、０．９〜２．２ｄｔｅｘの範囲がより好ましい。
【００２３】
マルチフィラメント糸からなるミシン糸の総繊度は、縫製時の糸切れを防止するため６６ｄｔｅｘ以上、他方、糸の配列ムラを抑制して刺繍製品の外観品位を良好にするため３３３ｄｔｅｘ以下が好ましい。
【００２４】
本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は以下の方法で得ることができる。即ち、ポリエチレンテレフタレートを図１に示す口金吐出孔を有する口金より溶融紡糸し吐出した糸条を冷却固化した後、５０００ｍ／ｍｉｎ以上の速度で紡糸し、紡糸油剤、ならびにインターレースノズルにより糸条に交絡を付与して、巻取機にて巻き取ることによりポリエステルフィラメント糸を得る。該ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸に下ヨリをかけ、更にこの糸を４本引き揃え上ヨリをかけ、規定のスチーム温度で熱セットし、ソフトワインダーを用いてチーズ形状に巻き取った後、高圧染色機で染色して該刺繍糸用ポリエステルミシン糸を得ることができる。
【００２５】
【実施例】
以下、実施例をあげて、本発明を具体的に説明する。
【００２６】
なお、実施例及び比較例における測定値は、次の方法で得たものである。
（１）固有粘度
３５℃のｏ−クロロフェノール溶液を用いて測定した値である。
（２）染着バラツキ（長手方向の染め差バラツキ）
（株）東レエンジニアリング製 ＦＹＬ−５００ＳＲを用いて、糸速６０ｍ／ｍｉｎで、染色槽内で染色温度９０℃、糸巻数５４回で染色後、洗浄槽で洗浄温度８５℃、糸巻数９回で洗浄したポリエステルフィラメント糸の長手方向の染め斑を連続して測定し、その分散を算出した。その際、染料としてミツビシ製 ＤＹＥＳＴＵＦＦ（５％ＯＷｆ濃度）に分散剤（サンソルトＷＡ：０．７ＯＷｆ濃度）を添加したものを用いた。
（３）光沢の強さ（ギラツキ度、イラツキ）
刺繍糸を緯糸打ち込みして１／３ツイル織物を作製し、（株）村上色彩技術研究所製 自動変角光沢計（ＧＰ−２００）を用いて（入射角４５°、反射角４５°）及び（入射角４５°、反射角９０°）の条件で、最大値−最小値をギラツキ度として評価した。その際酸化マグネシウム白板のギラツキ度を５０とした。また、同試験織物においてイラツキの品位を経験１０年以上の検査員同席で評価し「○優良」、「△可」、「×不良」の３段階で評価した。
（４）引張強度（ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ）および破断伸度（％）
ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０７３（合成繊維フィラメント試験方法）に準じ、自記録式引張試験機を用いて試長２５ｃｍ、引張速度３０ｃｍ／ｍｉｎで測定した値である。
（５）交絡数
「ＲＯＴＨＣＨＩＬＤ」社製ＥＮＴＡＮＧＬＥＭＥＮＴ ＴＥＳＴＥＲ Ｒ−２０６０を用い、測定速度５．０ｍ／ｍｉｎ、トリップテンションレベル１０．０ｃＮ、トリップ後の次回針刺しまでの糸長１．０ｃｍ、繰り返し数３０回に測定条件を設定し、３２本のサンプルを連続測定した。測定糸条への針刺し部からトリップテンションレベル（１０．０ｃＮ）に到達してトリップするまでの糸条長を非交絡部分の開繊長とみなし、下記の式に当てはめて交絡数を算出した。
【００２７】
交絡数＝３００００／ΣＬ
ΣＬ＝開繊長の合計（ｍｍ）
（６）糸・糸走行摩擦係数
英光産業（株）製 摩擦測定装置「μメーター」を用い、下記の計算式にて算出した。
【００２８】
μｄ＝（１／２π×ｎ×ｓｉｎβ×ｌｏｇｅ）×ｌｏｇ（Ｔ_２／Ｔ_１）
μｄ＝摩擦係数
ｎ＝加撚数＝３
β＝撚角度＝７／２７
ｅ＝２．７１８
Ｔ_１＝ガイドへの入側の張力（ｇ）
Ｔ_２＝ガイドからの出側の張力（ｇ）
なお、ミシン糸の評価項目及び評価方法は以下に述べる通りである。
（７）繊度（ｄｔｅｘ）
ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０７３に準じ、検尺器を用いてサンプル長１００ｍを採取し、重量をｄｔｅｘ単位に換算した値である。
（８）タオル目
幅１２ｃｍ、長さ１２ｃｍの高密度コーティング素材を２枚合わせて、１ｍｍと４ｍｍの縫い目ピッチで放射方向にサテン縫いをした。縫い条件は、ミシンはタジマ刺繍ミシン（ＴＭＥＸ−Ｃ９０１）、ミシン針はオルガン製ＤＢ×Ｋ５ ＃９を使用し、上糸張力は、布押さえから引き出して約１００ｇ、１２０ｇ、１４０ｇ、下糸張力は、カマから引き出して約１２〜１５ｇで、縫い速度１２００針／分にて実施した。そのときの二重リングのタオル目個数を目視で数えた。
（９）糸切れ
幅２２ｃｍ、長さ２２ｃｍの１枚の試料に、縫目ピッチ１ｍｍの放射方向サテン縫いリングパターンを９個を作成した。縫い条件は、タジマ刺繍ミシン（ＴＭＥＸ−Ｃ９０１）、ミシン針はオルガン製ＤＢ×Ｋ５ ＃９を使用し、上糸張力は、布押さえから引き出して約１００ｇ、１４０ｇ、下糸張力は、カマから引き出して約１２〜１５ｇで、縫い速度１２００針／分にて実施した。そのときの糸切れの発生した回数を数えた。
（１０）外観品位（パッカリング、配列斑）、風合い
試料用基布に該ポリエステルミシン糸にて種々変化させた刺繍を作成し、２４時間後のパッカリング、糸の配列斑、風合い（ソフト感）を調査して「○優良」、「△可」、「×不良」の３段階で評価し、○及び△を合格範囲とした。各判定については、熟練した検査員によりハンドリングにて評価した。
【００２９】
実施例１〜５、比較例１〜２
無機粒子を含まないポリエチレンテレフタレートポリマーを図１に示す口金吐出孔を有する口金より溶融吐出し、紡糸速度５０００、５５００、６０００、６５００、７０００、４０００、４５００ｍ／ｍｉｎで紡糸し、交絡処理をした後チーズ形状に巻き取り、固有粘度０．６３３、単繊維繊度が１．８５ｄｔｅｘ、断面形状が楕円八葉形で扁平度＝１．５６，異形度Ｉ＝１．１８、異形度ＩＩ＝１．３２のポリエステルフィラメント糸を作製した。該ポリエステルフィラメント糸にヨリ数６３６Ｔ／ｍの下ヨリをかけ、更にこの糸を４本引き揃えヨリ数５７０Ｔ／ｍの上ヨリをかけ、１１０℃のスチームで熱セットした。続いて、ソフトワインダーを用いてチーズ形状に巻き取り高圧染色機で通常のポリエステルと同様に１３０℃で染色し総繊度２６６ｄｔｅｘのミシン糸を作製した。
【００３０】
該ミシン糸の評価は表１に示した結果となり、実施例１〜５についてはいずれも良好な結果となったが、比較例１、２は染斑が悪化し、パッカリングにより外観品位も悪化した。
【００３１】
比較例３
紡速１４７６ｍ／ｍｉｎで一旦巻き取った後、延伸・熱処理した他は実施例１と同様にしてポリエステルミシン糸を作製した。
【００３２】
該ミシン糸の評価は表１に示した結果となり、染着バラツキは０．９６、光沢は２４であり、可縫製は良好であるが、光沢が乏しく染斑の発生率が大きく、刺繍用ミシン糸としての品位が劣っていることが分かる。
【００３３】
【表１】

【００３４】
実施例６〜９、比較例４〜６
紡速６０００ｍ／ｍｉｎで扁平度、異形度Ｉ、異形度ＩＩ、断面形状を表１に示すように種々に変化させて、光沢度を３５、４７、６３、６８、２４、８０、９４で変化させた他は実施例３と同様の方法でポリエステルミシン糸を作製した。
【００３５】
該ミシン糸の評価は表２に示した結果となり、実施例６〜９についてはいずれも良好な結果となったが、比較例４は緯打した織物で光沢が乏しく本発明の対象とはならない。また比較例５、６はタオル目が多発し、また緯打織物でイラツキが発生するため、同じく本発明の対象とならない。
【００３６】
【表２】

【００３７】
実施例１０、１１、比較例７
紡糸時におけるインターレースノズルの圧空量を変化させて、交絡度を０、５、９と変化させた他は実施例３と同様の方法でポリエステルミシン糸を作製した。
【００３８】
該ミシン糸の評価は表３に示した結果となり、実施例１１は良好な結果が得られ、実施例１０についてはややタオル目が多くなるが本発明の効果が損なわれるレベルではなかった。比較例７はタオル目が多く発生し、またギラツキ度も大きく本発明の対象とはならない。
【００３９】
実施例１２〜１４
摩擦係数を０．１８７、０．２３６、０．２８２と変化させた他は実施例３と同様の方法でポリエステルミシン糸を作製した。
【００４０】
該ミシン糸の評価は表３に示した結果となり、実施例１２、１３は良好な結果が得られ、実施例１４についてはややタオル目が多くなるが本発明の効果が損なわれるレベルではなかった。
【００４１】
【表３】

【００４２】
実施例１５〜２２
総繊度、単糸繊度を表４に示すように種々変化させた他は実施例３と同様の方法でポリエステルミシン糸を作製した。
【００４３】
該ミシン糸の評価は表４に示した結果となり、実施例１６〜２０は良好な結果が得られ、実施例１５についてはややタオル目が多く刺繍時の糸切れが若干多くなるが本発明の効果が損なわれるレベルではなかった。また、実施例２１については単糸繊度が太く緯打織物の風合いが若干硬めであったが、本発明の効果が損なわれるレベルではなかった。また、実施例２２については糸の配列斑が若干みられるが本発明の効果が損なわれるレベルではなかった。
【００４４】
【表４】

【００４５】
【発明の効果】
本発明の光沢に優れたポリエステルフィラメントを使用することにより、高級感のある落ち着いた光沢を有し、色目が綺麗でかつ刺繍縫製時の糸切れや外観品位低下が無い刺繍用ポリエステルミシン糸を提供することができる。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】本発明の刺繍用ポリエステルミシン糸を好適に製造する口金吐出孔の一例を示す概念図である。
【図２】本発明の一実施態様である楕円八葉形状の単繊維横断面図。
【図３】本発明の一実施態様である楕円六葉形状の単繊維横断面図。
【図４】本発明の光沢の強さを示す説明図。[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to an embroidery polyester sewing thread having a high-grade gloss when sewing embroidery and having a beautiful color.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, silk and rayon have been used for sewing threads for embroidery because of their excellent dyeing properties and gloss. However, while silk is expensive and limited to applications such as kimono because of its light fastness and low strength, rayon is often used due to its good dyeing and coloring properties and good appearance of processed products. However, there is a drawback that the thread is often broken during the twisting process and sewing due to low strength. Furthermore, the sewn embroidery products have a disadvantage that they are easily compatible with home and industrial washing. In order to solve such a drawback, a sewing thread using a polyester filament thread has been proposed.
[0003]
For example, there has been proposed a sewing thread that assumes strength and modulus using a polymer whose crystallinity is regulated (see Patent Document 1). However, the one embroidered with the polyester sewing thread has a drawback that a loop-like so-called towel is easily formed at the seam and the appearance quality is significantly impaired. Further, a sewing thread having good hand-cutting property by amine treatment has been proposed, but has a problem such as lack of gloss (see Patent Document 2). Also, a sewing thread has been proposed in which the fineness of the single fiber, the total fineness, the number of filaments and the twist coefficient are regulated to reduce frictional resistance and make it difficult to form a towel, but glossiness, which is an important evaluation item for sewing threads for embroidery, has been proposed. Was only qualitatively evaluated, and there was a drawback that dye spots also occurred in the longitudinal direction of the fiber (see Patent Document 3).
[0004]
[Patent Document 1]
JP-A-59-199831 (Claims)
[0005]
[Patent Document 2]
JP-A-63-315633 (Claims)
[0006]
[Patent Document 3]
JP-A-62-125033 (Claims)
[0007]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
An object of the present invention is to solve such a problem, and in particular, to provide a high-quality sewing thread for embroidery which has good gloss and has no spots in the longitudinal direction of the fiber.
[0008]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present invention has the following configuration to solve the above problems. That is, it is an embroidery polyester sewing thread composed of a polyester multifilament thread having a dyeing variation in the longitudinal direction of the fiber of 0.8 or less, a gloss intensity of 35 to 70, and a confound.
[0009]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
The polymer constituting the polyester multifilament yarn used in the sewing thread of the present invention is a polymer containing ethylene terephthalate as a main repeating unit. The polyester or polyethylene terephthalate of the present invention may be obtained by copolymerizing the third component within a range that can satisfy the properties of the yarn of the present invention. If necessary, additives such as an antistatic agent, a matting agent, an ultraviolet absorber, a dyeability improving agent, and various pigments may be mixed.
[0010]
In order to provide an embroidery product with a beautiful tint, the variation in dyeing in the longitudinal direction of the fiber must be 0.8 or less. More preferably, it is desirably 0.6 or less. The method for measuring the dyeing variation will be described later.
[0011]
The gloss intensity must be in the range of 35 to 70 in order to obtain a luxurious gloss close to that of rayon silver. The method for measuring the gloss intensity will be described later. When the gloss is 35 to 70, an embroidery product with a gorgeous gloss is obtained at the time of sewing the embroidery. If it is less than 35, the gorgeous luster required for the embroidery thread cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if it is more than 70, the embroidery thread becomes more irritated and a calm gloss embroidery product cannot be obtained. Therefore, the gloss intensity must be in the range of 35-70. More preferably, the range of 45 to 65 is desirable.
[0012]
Further, the number of entanglements is preferably 5 or more, more preferably 8 or more, in order to prevent the occurrence of towels at the time of sewing and to improve the quality of embroidery products by converging the polyester multifilament yarn. As a specific means for imparting entanglement, a method of imparting entanglement to the yarn using a general interlace nozzle is desirable.
[0013]
The single fiber cross-sectional shape is an irregular cross-section in order to impart gloss to the fiber, but in order to impart good gloss, the outer periphery is an elliptical multi-leaf cross-section that is formed alternately with convex portions and concave portions. And more than elliptical quadrilateral. Also, those having a cross section of eight or less shapes are preferable because they exhibit gloss closer to the gloss of sliver silver of rayon. In particular, when the cross section has an elliptical eight-leaf shape, high-grade gloss can be obtained, which is more preferable.
[0014]
The deformation of the cross-sectional shape is preferably in the following range. That is, as shown in FIG. 1, the flatness defined by the ratio A / B of the major axis A and the minor axis B is 1.2 to 1.8.
[0015]
Next, among the straight lines that intersect at right angles with the straight line of the major axis A, the ratio C / D of the minor axis C of the second longest and the minor axis D of the third longest is defined as the degree of irregularity I, and the range is 1.0 to 1 .3.
[0016]
Further, the ratio B / D of the minor axis B to the minor axis D is defined as the degree of irregularity II, and the range is 1.0 to 1.6. In addition, other typical irregular sectional shapes include a flat section and a trilobe section. However, in each case, only glare can be obtained, and the calm luster which is the object of the present invention cannot be obtained. Further, the crystallization in the fiber is apt to progress, and the amorphous portion of the inner layer portion is small, and the dyeing property is poor. On the other hand, the elliptic multilobal polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention has a larger amorphous portion because the crystallization of the inner layer portion is delayed with respect to the outer layer portion of the fiber, so that the dyeing property becomes better and the dyeing in the longitudinal direction of the fiber becomes better. A polyester sewing thread for an embroidery thread with less variation in wear is obtained.
[0017]
The tensile strength of the polyester filament yarn is preferably 2.7 cN / dtex or more, more preferably 3.0 cN / dtex or more, from the viewpoint of preventing yarn breakage during sewing due to insufficient strength.
[0018]
In addition, the sewing thread strength is preferably in the range of 1.75 to 9.8 N from the viewpoint of hand-cutting during sewing, and the sewing machine has a good smoothness, beautifully arranges the seam threads, and has high smoothness. It is desirable as an embroidery thread for yarn. Therefore, in general, a finishing oil such as silicone is applied to the surface in the final step of sewing thread processing. However, it is effective that the friction coefficient between the thread and the running yarn is essentially small. In order to prevent the arrangement of the polyester filament from being disturbed, to improve the slip of the yarn, and to prevent the occurrence of shrinkage after toweling (loop) and sewing, the coefficient of friction between the polyester filament yarn and the yarn is 0.1%. The range is preferably from 15 to 0.3, more preferably from 0.15 to 0.24.
[0019]
The polyester multifilament yarn, which is a raw material of the polyester sewing thread for embroidery, is spun at a high speed, so that the crystallization of the outer layer of the fiber is more advanced than that of the inner layer of the fiber. In other words, the higher the spinning speed, the more the degree of crystallinity of the inner and outer layers of the fiber increases, and the non-crystalline portion of the inner layer of the fiber becomes larger than that of the polyester multifilament yarn obtained by the usual two-step method of spinning and drawing. It is thought that it is easy to penetrate, good dyeability is obtained, and variation in dyeing in the fiber longitudinal direction is reduced.
[0020]
The polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention can be obtained by spinning at a spinning speed of 5000 m / min or more. More preferably, it is 5500 m / min or more and 6500 m / min or less.
[0021]
Since the polyester multifilament yarn causes puckering due to shrinkage of the sewing thread itself after embroidery sewing and significantly lowers the quality of the embroidery product, the dry heat shrinkage of the polyester filament yarn is preferably 5% or less.
[0022]
The single fiber fineness is preferably 0.5 dtex or more, because it is possible to suppress melting of the obtained sewing thread due to frictional heat generated during sewing and breakage of single fibers caused by abnormal tension applied during sewing. On the other hand, by setting the single fiber fineness to 3.3 dtex or less, the texture of the obtained sewing thread becomes softer, the embroidery fabric is well-adapted, and the embroidery does not float, which is preferable. From these viewpoints, the single fiber fineness of the raw thread for the sewing thread is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 3.3 dtex, and from the viewpoint of increasing the buckling property of the sewing thread, it is preferably 0.9 to 2.2 dtex. The range is more preferable.
[0023]
The total fineness of the sewing thread composed of the multifilament thread is preferably 66 dtex or more to prevent thread breakage during sewing, and 333 dtex or less to suppress unevenness in thread arrangement and improve the appearance quality of embroidery products.
[0024]
The polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention can be obtained by the following method. That is, polyethylene terephthalate is melt-spun from a die having a die discharge hole shown in FIG. 1, cooled and solidified, then spun at a speed of 5000 m / min or more, and entangled with the yarn by a spinning oil and an interlace nozzle. And a polyester filament yarn is obtained by winding it up with a winder. The polyester multi-filament yarn is twisted downward, four yarns are lined up and twisted, heat-set at a prescribed steam temperature, wound into a cheese shape using a soft winder, and then subjected to a high-pressure dyeing machine. The polyester sewing thread for embroidery thread can be obtained by dyeing.
[0025]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically with reference to examples.
[0026]
The measured values in the examples and comparative examples were obtained by the following methods.
(1) A value measured using an o-chlorophenol solution having an intrinsic viscosity of 35 ° C.
(2) Variation in dyeing (variation in dyeing difference in the longitudinal direction)
Using FYL-500SR manufactured by Toray Engineering Co., Ltd. at a yarn speed of 60 m / min at a dyeing temperature of 90 ° C. in a dyeing tank with 54 yarns, and a washing tank with a washing temperature of 85 ° C. and a yarn winding number of 9 times. The dyed spots in the longitudinal direction of the washed polyester filament yarn were continuously measured, and the dispersion was calculated. At this time, a dye obtained by adding a dispersant (Sun Salt WA: 0.7 OWf concentration) to DYESTUFF (5% OWf concentration) manufactured by Mitsubishi was used as a dye.
(3) Glossiness (Glitteriness, Irritability)
An embroidery thread is driven into a weft to produce a 1/3 twill fabric, and an automatic variable-angle gloss meter (GP-200) manufactured by Murakami Color Research Laboratory Co., Ltd. (incident angle 45 °, reflection angle 45 °) and Under the condition of (incident angle 45 °, reflection angle 90 °), the maximum value-minimum value was evaluated as the degree of glare. At that time, the glare degree of the magnesium oxide white plate was set to 50. In addition, the quality of Iratsu in the test fabric was evaluated by an inspector with at least 10 years of experience, and evaluated on a three-point scale of “Excellent”, “Possible”, and “Poor”.
(4) Tensile strength (cN / dtex) and elongation at break (%)
This is a value measured using a self-recording tensile tester at a test length of 25 cm and a tensile speed of 30 cm / min according to JIS L 1073 (test method for synthetic fiber filaments).
(5) Number of confounds Using entanglement tester R-2060 manufactured by ROTHCHILD, measuring speed 5.0 m / min, trip tension level 10.0 cN, thread length 1.0 cm until next needle puncture after trip, number of repetitions 30 times The measurement conditions were set as follows, and 32 samples were continuously measured. The yarn length from the point where the needle pierced the measurement yarn to the trip tension level (10.0 cN) until it tripped was regarded as the spread length of the unentangled portion, and the number of entanglements was calculated by applying the following formula.
[0027]
Number of confounds = 30,000 / ΣL
ΣL = total opening length (mm)
(6) Yarn-yarn running friction coefficient Calculated by the following formula using a friction measurement device “μ meter” manufactured by Eiko Sangyo Co., Ltd.
[0028]
μd = (１ ／ π × n × sinβ × log) × log (T ₂ / T ₁ )
μd = friction coefficient n = twist number = 3
β = twist angle = 7/27
e = 2.718
T ₁ = tension on the entry side to the guide (g)
T ₂ = tension on the exit side from the guide (g)
The evaluation items and the evaluation method of the sewing thread are as described below.
(7) Fineness (dtex)
According to JIS L 1073, this is a value obtained by collecting a sample length of 100 m using a scale and converting the weight into dtex units.
(8) Two high-density coating materials having a towel mesh width of 12 cm and a length of 12 cm were combined, and satin-stitched in the radial direction at a stitch pitch of 1 mm and 4 mm. The sewing conditions are as follows: Tajima embroidery sewing machine (TMEX-C901) for sewing machine, DB × K5 # 9 made by organ for sewing needle, upper thread tension about 100 g, 120 g, 140 g after pulling out from cloth holder, lower thread tension Approximately 12 to 15 g at a sewing speed of 1200 needles / min. The number of towels on the double ring at that time was visually counted.
(9) Nine radial satin stitching ring patterns having a stitch pitch of 1 mm were formed on one sample having a thread break width of 22 cm and a length of 22 cm. The sewing conditions are Tajima embroidery sewing machine (TMEX-C901), the sewing machine needle is DB × K5 # 9 made by organ, the upper thread tension is pulled out from the cloth holder, about 100 g and 140 g, and the lower thread tension is pulled out from the kama. At a sewing speed of 1200 needles / minute. The number of occurrences of yarn breakage at that time was counted.
(10) Embroidery with various changes in appearance quality (puckering, arrangement unevenness) and texture using the polyester sewing thread on the fabric for sample, and puckering, yarn alignment unevenness, and texture (soft feeling) after 24 hours ) Were evaluated and evaluated on a three-point scale of "Excellent", "Possible", and "Poor". Each judgment was evaluated by handling by a skilled inspector.
[0029]
Examples 1 to 5, Comparative Examples 1 and 2
A polyethylene terephthalate polymer containing no inorganic particles is melt-discharged from a die having a die discharge hole shown in FIG. 1, spun at a spinning speed of 5,000, 5,500, 6000, 6500, 7000, 4000, 4500 m / min, and subjected to entanglement treatment. Wound in a cheese shape, intrinsic viscosity 0.633, single fiber fineness 1.85 dtex, cross-sectional shape is elliptical octafle, flatness = 1.56, irregularity I = 1.18, irregularity II = 1.32. Was produced. The polyester filament yarn was twisted with a lower twist of 636 T / m, and four of the yarns were further aligned and the upper twist of 570 T / m was twisted, followed by heat setting with steam at 110 ° C. Subsequently, it was wound into a cheese shape using a soft winder and dyed at 130 ° C. by a high-pressure dyeing machine in the same manner as ordinary polyester, to produce a sewing thread having a total fineness of 266 dtex.
[0030]
The evaluation of the sewing thread was as shown in Table 1, and all of Examples 1 to 5 showed good results. However, in Comparative Examples 1 and 2, the spots deteriorated and the appearance quality deteriorated due to puckering. did.
[0031]
Comparative Example 3
A polyester sewing thread was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the film was once wound at a spinning speed of 1476 m / min, stretched and heat-treated.
[0032]
The evaluation of the sewing thread was as shown in Table 1. The variation in dyeing was 0.96, the gloss was 24, and the sewing was good. However, the gloss was poor and the occurrence rate of spots was large. It turns out that the quality as a thread is inferior.
[0033]
[Table 1]

[0034]
Examples 6 to 9, Comparative Examples 4 to 6
The glossiness is changed at 35, 47, 63, 68, 24, 80, 94 by varying the flatness, the degree of irregularity I, the degree of irregularity II, and the cross-sectional shape variously as shown in Table 1 at a spinning speed of 6000 m / min. A polyester sewing thread was produced in the same manner as in Example 3 except that the above operation was performed.
[0035]
The evaluation of the sewing thread was as shown in Table 2, and the results of Examples 6 to 9 were all good. However, Comparative Example 4 was poor in luster due to a wefted fabric and was not an object of the present invention. . Further, in Comparative Examples 5 and 6, since towels frequently occur and irritability occurs in the wefted fabric, the same is not the object of the present invention.
[0036]
[Table 2]

[0037]
Examples 10 and 11, Comparative Example 7
A polyester sewing thread was produced in the same manner as in Example 3, except that the entanglement degree was changed to 0, 5, and 9 by changing the compressed air amount of the interlace nozzle during spinning.
[0038]
The results of the evaluation of the sewing thread are shown in Table 3. In Example 11, good results were obtained. In Example 10, the number of towels was slightly increased, but the level was not at a level that would impair the effects of the present invention. In Comparative Example 7, a large number of towel lines were generated, and the degree of glare was large, and was not an object of the present invention.
[0039]
Examples 12 to 14
A polyester sewing thread was produced in the same manner as in Example 3 except that the friction coefficient was changed to 0.187, 0.236, and 0.282.
[0040]
The results of the evaluation of the sewing thread are shown in Table 3. In Examples 12 and 13, good results were obtained. In Example 14, the number of towels was slightly increased, but the level of the effect of the present invention was not impaired. .
[0041]
[Table 3]

[0042]
Examples 15 to 22
A polyester sewing thread was produced in the same manner as in Example 3 except that the total fineness and single yarn fineness were variously changed as shown in Table 4.
[0043]
The results of the evaluation of the sewing thread are shown in Table 4. In Examples 16 to 20, good results were obtained. The effect was not at a level that would be impaired. Further, in Example 21, the single-fiber fineness was large and the texture of the wefted fabric was slightly hard, but not at a level at which the effects of the present invention were impaired. Further, in Example 22, there was some unevenness in the arrangement of the yarns, but the level was not at a level that would impair the effects of the present invention.
[0044]
[Table 4]

[0045]
【The invention's effect】
By using the polyester filament excellent in gloss of the present invention, there is provided a polyester sewing thread for embroidery which has a luxurious and calm gloss, has a beautiful color tone, and does not have thread breakage or deterioration in appearance quality during embroidery sewing. can do.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a conceptual diagram showing an example of a die discharge hole for suitably producing an embroidery polyester sewing thread of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view of an elliptical octafle-shaped single fiber according to an embodiment of the present invention.
FIG. 3 is a cross-sectional view of an elliptic six-lobe single fiber according to an embodiment of the present invention.
FIG. 4 is an explanatory diagram showing the glossiness of the present invention.

Claims (5)

繊維長手方向の染着バラツキが０．８以下で、光沢の強さが３５〜７０であり、かつ交絡を有するポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸からなる刺繍用ポリエステルミシン糸。A polyester sewing thread for embroidery comprising a polyester multifilament yarn having a dyeing variation of 0.8 or less in the longitudinal direction of the fiber, a gloss intensity of 35 to 70, and entanglement. 単繊維断面の形状が楕円四葉形以上で、その扁平度として長径Ａと短径Ｂの比Ａ／Ｂが１．２〜１．８、異形度Ｉとして長径Ａに直角に交わる直線のうち２番目に長い短径Ｃと３番目に長い短径Ｄの比Ｃ／Ｄが１．０〜１．３、異形度ＩＩとして短径Ｂと短径Ｄの比Ｂ／Ｄが１．０〜１．６であることを特徴とする請求項１記載の刺繍用ポリエステルミシン糸。The cross section of a single fiber is an elliptical quadrilateral or more, and the flatness is a ratio A / B of the major axis A to the minor axis B of 1.2 to 1.8, and the irregularity degree I is 2 out of a straight line that intersects the major axis A at right angles. The ratio C / D of the shortest major axis C to the third major minor axis D is 1.0 to 1.3, and the ratio B / D of the minor minor axis B to the minor minor axis D is 1.0 to 1 as the degree of irregularity II. The polyester sewing thread for embroidery according to claim 1, wherein ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸の引張強度が２．７ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘ以上であることを特徴とする請求項１または２記載の刺繍用ポリエステルミシン糸。The polyester sewing thread for embroidery according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the tensile strength of the polyester multifilament yarn is 2.7 cN / dtex or more. ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸の糸・糸走行糸摩擦係数が０．１５〜０．３であることを特徴とする請求項１〜３のいずれか１項記載の刺繍用ポリエステルミシン糸。The polyester sewing thread for embroidery according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the polyester / multifilament thread has a coefficient of friction of 0.15 to 0.3. ポリエステルを溶融紡糸し吐出した糸条を冷却・固化した後、紡糸油剤を付与し延伸を行い５０００ｍ／ｍｉｎ以上のゴデットローラを介して巻取機で巻き取るに際して、流体による交絡処理を施すことを特徴とするポリエステルフィラメント糸からなる請求項１〜４のいずれか１項記載の刺繍用ポリエステルミシン糸の製造方法。After the polyester fiber is melt-spun and the discharged yarn is cooled and solidified, a spinning oil agent is applied, stretched, and entangled with a fluid at the time of winding by a winder through a godet roller of 5000 m / min or more. The method for producing an embroidery polyester sewing thread according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising a polyester filament thread.

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