JP2004277908A - Polyester machine sewing thread for embroidery - Google Patents
Polyester machine sewing thread for embroidery Download PDFInfo
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- JP2004277908A JP2004277908A JP2003069449A JP2003069449A JP2004277908A JP 2004277908 A JP2004277908 A JP 2004277908A JP 2003069449 A JP2003069449 A JP 2003069449A JP 2003069449 A JP2003069449 A JP 2003069449A JP 2004277908 A JP2004277908 A JP 2004277908A
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Abstract
Description
【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、刺繍縫製時に高級感のある光沢を有し、かつ色目の綺麗な刺繍用ポリエステルミシン糸に関するものである。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
従来、刺繍用ミシン糸には、染色性、光沢などの良さから絹やレーヨンが用いられてきた。しかし、絹は高価であると共に耐光堅牢度や強度の弱さから和装などの用途に限定されている一方、レーヨンは染色性及び発色性の良さ、加工品の外観品位の良さから多く利用されているが、強度が低いため撚糸工程や縫製時の糸切れが多いという欠点がある。更には縫製された刺繍製品は家庭洗濯や工業洗濯で腑化しやすいという欠点がある。かかる欠点を解決するためポリエステルフィラメント糸を用いたミシン糸が提案されている。
【0003】
例えば、結晶性を規制したポリマーを用いて、強度、モジュラスを想定したミシン糸が提案されている(特許文献1参照)。しかしながら、このポリエステルミシン糸を用いて刺繍したものは縫目にループ状のいわゆるタオル目を形成しやすく外観品位を著しく損なうという欠点がある。また、アミン処理による手切れ性の良いミシン糸が提案されているが、光沢に欠けるなどの問題がある(特許文献2参照)。また、単繊維繊度、全繊度、フィラメント数及び撚係数を規制して摩擦抵抗を減らしタオル目を形成しにくくしたミシン糸が提案されているが、刺繍用ミシン糸において重要な評価項目である光沢について定性的評価のみであり、また繊維長手方向の染め斑も発生する欠点のあるものであった(特許文献3参照)。
【0004】
【特許文献1】
特開昭59−199831号公報(特許請求の範囲)
【0005】
【特許文献2】
特開昭63−315633号公報(特許請求の範囲)
【0006】
【特許文献3】
特開昭62−125033号公報(特許請求の範囲)
【0007】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明は、かかる問題点を解消し、特に、光沢が良好な、かつ繊維長手方向に染め斑のない高品位な刺繍用ミシン糸を提供することにある。
【0008】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明は上記課題を解決するために次の構成を有する。すなわち、繊維長手方向の染着バラツキが0.8以下で、光沢の強さが35〜70であり、かつ交絡を有するポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸からなる刺繍用ポリエステルミシン糸である。
【0009】
【発明の実施の形態】
本発明のミシン糸に使用するポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を構成するポリマーは、エチレンテレフタレートを主たる繰り返し単位とするポリマーである。本発明のポリエステルもしくはポリエチレンテレフタレートは、本発明の原糸特性を満足できる範囲で第3成分を共重合させたものであってもかまわない。また、必要に応じて制電剤、艶消剤、紫外線吸収剤、染色性改良剤、各種顔料等の添加物を混入せしめてもかまわない。
【0010】
色目の綺麗な刺繍製品を提供するために、繊維長手方向の染着バラツキは0.8以下でなければならない。より好ましくは0.6以下が望ましい。染着バラツキの測定方法については、後述する。
【0011】
レーヨンの有するいぶし銀の光沢に近い高級感のある光沢を得るために、光沢の強さは35〜70の範囲でなければならない。光沢の強さの測定方法については、後述する。光沢が35〜70の場合には、刺繍縫製時に華やかな光沢のある刺繍製品が得られる。35未満では刺繍糸に求められる華やかな光沢が得られず、他方、70を超える場合には刺繍糸のイラツキが強くなり落ち着いた光沢の刺繍製品が得られない。従って、光沢の強さは35〜70の範囲でなければならない。より好ましくは45〜65の範囲が望ましい。
【0012】
また、ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を収束させることにより縫製時のタオル目の発生を防ぎ刺繍製品の品位を向上せしめるため、交絡数は5以上、より好ましくは8以上が好ましい。交絡付与の具体的手段としては、一般的なインターレースノズルにより糸条に交絡を付与する方法が望ましい。
【0013】
単繊維断面形状は、繊維に光沢を付与するために異形断面とするものであるが、良好な光沢を付与するために、外周が凸部と凹部で交互に形成される楕円多葉断面とするものであり、楕円四葉形以上のものを指す。また、八葉形以下の断面を有するものが、レーヨンの有するいぶし銀の光沢により近い光沢を発現するので好ましい。とりわけ、楕円八葉形状の断面を有する場合には高級感のある光沢が得られ、より好ましい。
【0014】
なお、断面形状の変形は次の範囲が好ましい。すなわち、図1に示すように長径Aと短径Bの比A/Bで定義される扁平度が1.2〜1.8である。
【0015】
次に、長径Aの直線に直角に交わる直線のうち2番目に長いもの短径Cと3番目に長いもの短径Dの比C/Dを異形度Iとし、その範囲が1.0〜1.3である。
【0016】
また、短径Bと短径Dの比B/Dを異形度IIとし、その範囲が1.0〜1.6である
なお、このほかに代表的な異形断面形状として扁平断面や三葉断面が挙げられるが、いずれもぎらついた光沢しか得ることができず、本発明の目的である落ち着いた光沢が得られない。また、繊維内での結晶化が進みやすく内層部の非晶部は小さいものとなり、染着性が劣るものとなる。これに対し本発明の楕円多葉形のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は繊維外層部に対し内層部の結晶化を遅らせることにより大きい非晶部が得られ、より染着性が良好となり繊維長手方向の染着バラツキの少ない刺繍糸用ポリエステルミシン糸が得られるものである。
【0017】
ポリエステルフィラメント糸の引張強度は、強力不足による縫製時の糸切れを防止する観点から2.7cN/dtex以上、より好ましくは3.0cN/dtex以上が好ましい。
【0018】
また、ミシン糸強力は、縫製時の手切れ性の点から、1.75〜9.8Nの範囲が好ましく、可縫製が良好で縫い目の糸が美しく配列しやすい平滑性に富む糸条がミシン糸用の刺繍糸として望ましいのである。そのため、一般的にはミシン糸加工の最終工程でシリコーンなどの仕上げ油剤を表面に付与しているが、本質的には糸と糸の走行時の摩擦係数が小さいことが効果的であり、糸の配列が乱れることを防止するとともに、糸の滑りを良くし、タオル目(ループ)や縫製後の収縮が発現する事を防止する観点から、ポリエステルフィラメント糸の糸・糸走行摩擦係数は0.15〜0.3の範囲が望ましく、より好ましくは0.15〜0.24の範囲が望ましい。
【0019】
刺繍用ポリエステルミシン糸の原料であるポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は、高速で紡糸することにより繊維内層部に対して繊維外層部の結晶化がより進む。すなわち紡速をあげるほど繊維内外層の結晶化度に格差が生じ、通常の紡糸・延伸の2工程法で得られるポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸に対し繊維内層の非結晶部分は大きくなるので染料が容易に入り込み易くなり良好な染色性が得られると共に繊維長手方向での染着バラツキが小さくなると考える。
【0020】
本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は、紡速5000m/min以上で紡糸することにより、得ることができる。より好ましくは5500m/min以上6500m/min以下である。
【0021】
ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は、刺繍縫製後にミシン糸自身の収縮によるパッカリングが発生し刺繍製品の品位を著しく低下させるため、ポリエステルフィラメント糸の乾熱収縮率は5%以下が好ましい。
【0022】
単繊維繊度は0.5dtex以上とすることが、得られたミシン糸が縫製時に発生する摩擦熱による溶断や、縫製時にかかる異常張力に起因する単繊維切れを抑制でき好ましい。他方、単繊維繊度は3.3dtex以下とすることで、得られたミシン糸の風合いが柔らかくなり、刺繍生地とのなじみが良く、糸が浮き上がることがない刺繍になり好ましい。これらの観点から、ミシン糸用原糸の単繊維繊度は0.5〜3.3dtexの範囲が好ましく、また、ミシン糸の座屈性を高くする観点からは、0.9〜2.2dtexの範囲がより好ましい。
【0023】
マルチフィラメント糸からなるミシン糸の総繊度は、縫製時の糸切れを防止するため66dtex以上、他方、糸の配列ムラを抑制して刺繍製品の外観品位を良好にするため333dtex以下が好ましい。
【0024】
本発明のポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は以下の方法で得ることができる。即ち、ポリエチレンテレフタレートを図1に示す口金吐出孔を有する口金より溶融紡糸し吐出した糸条を冷却固化した後、5000m/min以上の速度で紡糸し、紡糸油剤、ならびにインターレースノズルにより糸条に交絡を付与して、巻取機にて巻き取ることによりポリエステルフィラメント糸を得る。該ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸に下ヨリをかけ、更にこの糸を4本引き揃え上ヨリをかけ、規定のスチーム温度で熱セットし、ソフトワインダーを用いてチーズ形状に巻き取った後、高圧染色機で染色して該刺繍糸用ポリエステルミシン糸を得ることができる。
【0025】
【実施例】
以下、実施例をあげて、本発明を具体的に説明する。
【0026】
なお、実施例及び比較例における測定値は、次の方法で得たものである。
(1)固有粘度
35℃のo−クロロフェノール溶液を用いて測定した値である。
(2)染着バラツキ(長手方向の染め差バラツキ)
(株)東レエンジニアリング製 FYL−500SRを用いて、糸速60m/minで、染色槽内で染色温度90℃、糸巻数54回で染色後、洗浄槽で洗浄温度85℃、糸巻数9回で洗浄したポリエステルフィラメント糸の長手方向の染め斑を連続して測定し、その分散を算出した。その際、染料としてミツビシ製 DYESTUFF(5%OWf濃度)に分散剤(サンソルトWA:0.7OWf濃度)を添加したものを用いた。
(3)光沢の強さ(ギラツキ度、イラツキ)
刺繍糸を緯糸打ち込みして1/3ツイル織物を作製し、(株)村上色彩技術研究所製 自動変角光沢計(GP−200)を用いて(入射角45°、反射角45°)及び(入射角45°、反射角90°)の条件で、最大値−最小値をギラツキ度として評価した。その際酸化マグネシウム白板のギラツキ度を50とした。また、同試験織物においてイラツキの品位を経験10年以上の検査員同席で評価し「○優良」、「△可」、「×不良」の3段階で評価した。
(4)引張強度(cN/dtex)および破断伸度(%)
JIS L 1073(合成繊維フィラメント試験方法)に準じ、自記録式引張試験機を用いて試長25cm、引張速度30cm/minで測定した値である。
(5)交絡数
「ROTHCHILD」社製ENTANGLEMENT TESTER R−2060を用い、測定速度5.0m/min、トリップテンションレベル10.0cN、トリップ後の次回針刺しまでの糸長1.0cm、繰り返し数30回に測定条件を設定し、32本のサンプルを連続測定した。測定糸条への針刺し部からトリップテンションレベル(10.0cN)に到達してトリップするまでの糸条長を非交絡部分の開繊長とみなし、下記の式に当てはめて交絡数を算出した。
【0027】
交絡数=30000/ΣL
ΣL=開繊長の合計(mm)
(6)糸・糸走行摩擦係数
英光産業(株)製 摩擦測定装置「μメーター」を用い、下記の計算式にて算出した。
【0028】
μd=(1/2π×n×sinβ×loge)×log(T2/T1)
μd=摩擦係数
n=加撚数=3
β=撚角度=7/27
e=2.718
T1=ガイドへの入側の張力(g)
T2=ガイドからの出側の張力(g)
なお、ミシン糸の評価項目及び評価方法は以下に述べる通りである。
(7)繊度(dtex)
JIS L 1073に準じ、検尺器を用いてサンプル長100mを採取し、重量をdtex単位に換算した値である。
(8)タオル目
幅12cm、長さ12cmの高密度コーティング素材を2枚合わせて、1mmと4mmの縫い目ピッチで放射方向にサテン縫いをした。縫い条件は、ミシンはタジマ刺繍ミシン(TMEX−C901)、ミシン針はオルガン製DB×K5 #9を使用し、上糸張力は、布押さえから引き出して約100g、120g、140g、下糸張力は、カマから引き出して約12〜15gで、縫い速度1200針/分にて実施した。そのときの二重リングのタオル目個数を目視で数えた。
(9)糸切れ
幅22cm、長さ22cmの1枚の試料に、縫目ピッチ1mmの放射方向サテン縫いリングパターンを9個を作成した。縫い条件は、タジマ刺繍ミシン(TMEX−C901)、ミシン針はオルガン製DB×K5 #9を使用し、上糸張力は、布押さえから引き出して約100g、140g、下糸張力は、カマから引き出して約12〜15gで、縫い速度1200針/分にて実施した。そのときの糸切れの発生した回数を数えた。
(10)外観品位(パッカリング、配列斑)、風合い
試料用基布に該ポリエステルミシン糸にて種々変化させた刺繍を作成し、24時間後のパッカリング、糸の配列斑、風合い(ソフト感)を調査して「○優良」、「△可」、「×不良」の3段階で評価し、○及び△を合格範囲とした。各判定については、熟練した検査員によりハンドリングにて評価した。
【0029】
実施例1〜5、比較例1〜2
無機粒子を含まないポリエチレンテレフタレートポリマーを図1に示す口金吐出孔を有する口金より溶融吐出し、紡糸速度5000、5500、6000、6500、7000、4000、4500m/minで紡糸し、交絡処理をした後チーズ形状に巻き取り、固有粘度0.633、単繊維繊度が1.85dtex、断面形状が楕円八葉形で扁平度=1.56,異形度I=1.18、異形度II=1.32のポリエステルフィラメント糸を作製した。該ポリエステルフィラメント糸にヨリ数636T/mの下ヨリをかけ、更にこの糸を4本引き揃えヨリ数570T/mの上ヨリをかけ、110℃のスチームで熱セットした。続いて、ソフトワインダーを用いてチーズ形状に巻き取り高圧染色機で通常のポリエステルと同様に130℃で染色し総繊度266dtexのミシン糸を作製した。
【0030】
該ミシン糸の評価は表1に示した結果となり、実施例1〜5についてはいずれも良好な結果となったが、比較例1、2は染斑が悪化し、パッカリングにより外観品位も悪化した。
【0031】
比較例3
紡速1476m/minで一旦巻き取った後、延伸・熱処理した他は実施例1と同様にしてポリエステルミシン糸を作製した。
【0032】
該ミシン糸の評価は表1に示した結果となり、染着バラツキは0.96、光沢は24であり、可縫製は良好であるが、光沢が乏しく染斑の発生率が大きく、刺繍用ミシン糸としての品位が劣っていることが分かる。
【0033】
【表1】
【0034】
実施例6〜9、比較例4〜6
紡速6000m/minで扁平度、異形度I、異形度II、断面形状を表1に示すように種々に変化させて、光沢度を35、47、63、68、24、80、94で変化させた他は実施例3と同様の方法でポリエステルミシン糸を作製した。
【0035】
該ミシン糸の評価は表2に示した結果となり、実施例6〜9についてはいずれも良好な結果となったが、比較例4は緯打した織物で光沢が乏しく本発明の対象とはならない。また比較例5、6はタオル目が多発し、また緯打織物でイラツキが発生するため、同じく本発明の対象とならない。
【0036】
【表2】
【0037】
実施例10、11、比較例7
紡糸時におけるインターレースノズルの圧空量を変化させて、交絡度を0、5、9と変化させた他は実施例3と同様の方法でポリエステルミシン糸を作製した。
【0038】
該ミシン糸の評価は表3に示した結果となり、実施例11は良好な結果が得られ、実施例10についてはややタオル目が多くなるが本発明の効果が損なわれるレベルではなかった。比較例7はタオル目が多く発生し、またギラツキ度も大きく本発明の対象とはならない。
【0039】
実施例12〜14
摩擦係数を0.187、0.236、0.282と変化させた他は実施例3と同様の方法でポリエステルミシン糸を作製した。
【0040】
該ミシン糸の評価は表3に示した結果となり、実施例12、13は良好な結果が得られ、実施例14についてはややタオル目が多くなるが本発明の効果が損なわれるレベルではなかった。
【0041】
【表3】
【0042】
実施例15〜22
総繊度、単糸繊度を表4に示すように種々変化させた他は実施例3と同様の方法でポリエステルミシン糸を作製した。
【0043】
該ミシン糸の評価は表4に示した結果となり、実施例16〜20は良好な結果が得られ、実施例15についてはややタオル目が多く刺繍時の糸切れが若干多くなるが本発明の効果が損なわれるレベルではなかった。また、実施例21については単糸繊度が太く緯打織物の風合いが若干硬めであったが、本発明の効果が損なわれるレベルではなかった。また、実施例22については糸の配列斑が若干みられるが本発明の効果が損なわれるレベルではなかった。
【0044】
【表4】
【0045】
【発明の効果】
本発明の光沢に優れたポリエステルフィラメントを使用することにより、高級感のある落ち着いた光沢を有し、色目が綺麗でかつ刺繍縫製時の糸切れや外観品位低下が無い刺繍用ポリエステルミシン糸を提供することができる。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図1】本発明の刺繍用ポリエステルミシン糸を好適に製造する口金吐出孔の一例を示す概念図である。
【図2】本発明の一実施態様である楕円八葉形状の単繊維横断面図。
【図3】本発明の一実施態様である楕円六葉形状の単繊維横断面図。
【図4】本発明の光沢の強さを示す説明図。[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to an embroidery polyester sewing thread having a high-grade gloss when sewing embroidery and having a beautiful color.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, silk and rayon have been used for sewing threads for embroidery because of their excellent dyeing properties and gloss. However, while silk is expensive and limited to applications such as kimono because of its light fastness and low strength, rayon is often used due to its good dyeing and coloring properties and good appearance of processed products. However, there is a drawback that the thread is often broken during the twisting process and sewing due to low strength. Furthermore, the sewn embroidery products have a disadvantage that they are easily compatible with home and industrial washing. In order to solve such a drawback, a sewing thread using a polyester filament thread has been proposed.
[0003]
For example, there has been proposed a sewing thread that assumes strength and modulus using a polymer whose crystallinity is regulated (see Patent Document 1). However, the one embroidered with the polyester sewing thread has a drawback that a loop-like so-called towel is easily formed at the seam and the appearance quality is significantly impaired. Further, a sewing thread having good hand-cutting property by amine treatment has been proposed, but has a problem such as lack of gloss (see Patent Document 2). Also, a sewing thread has been proposed in which the fineness of the single fiber, the total fineness, the number of filaments and the twist coefficient are regulated to reduce frictional resistance and make it difficult to form a towel, but glossiness, which is an important evaluation item for sewing threads for embroidery, has been proposed. Was only qualitatively evaluated, and there was a drawback that dye spots also occurred in the longitudinal direction of the fiber (see Patent Document 3).
[0004]
[Patent Document 1]
JP-A-59-199831 (Claims)
[0005]
[Patent Document 2]
JP-A-63-315633 (Claims)
[0006]
[Patent Document 3]
JP-A-62-125033 (Claims)
[0007]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
An object of the present invention is to solve such a problem, and in particular, to provide a high-quality sewing thread for embroidery which has good gloss and has no spots in the longitudinal direction of the fiber.
[0008]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present invention has the following configuration to solve the above problems. That is, it is an embroidery polyester sewing thread composed of a polyester multifilament thread having a dyeing variation in the longitudinal direction of the fiber of 0.8 or less, a gloss intensity of 35 to 70, and a confound.
[0009]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
The polymer constituting the polyester multifilament yarn used in the sewing thread of the present invention is a polymer containing ethylene terephthalate as a main repeating unit. The polyester or polyethylene terephthalate of the present invention may be obtained by copolymerizing the third component within a range that can satisfy the properties of the yarn of the present invention. If necessary, additives such as an antistatic agent, a matting agent, an ultraviolet absorber, a dyeability improving agent, and various pigments may be mixed.
[0010]
In order to provide an embroidery product with a beautiful tint, the variation in dyeing in the longitudinal direction of the fiber must be 0.8 or less. More preferably, it is desirably 0.6 or less. The method for measuring the dyeing variation will be described later.
[0011]
The gloss intensity must be in the range of 35 to 70 in order to obtain a luxurious gloss close to that of rayon silver. The method for measuring the gloss intensity will be described later. When the gloss is 35 to 70, an embroidery product with a gorgeous gloss is obtained at the time of sewing the embroidery. If it is less than 35, the gorgeous luster required for the embroidery thread cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if it is more than 70, the embroidery thread becomes more irritated and a calm gloss embroidery product cannot be obtained. Therefore, the gloss intensity must be in the range of 35-70. More preferably, the range of 45 to 65 is desirable.
[0012]
Further, the number of entanglements is preferably 5 or more, more preferably 8 or more, in order to prevent the occurrence of towels at the time of sewing and to improve the quality of embroidery products by converging the polyester multifilament yarn. As a specific means for imparting entanglement, a method of imparting entanglement to the yarn using a general interlace nozzle is desirable.
[0013]
The single fiber cross-sectional shape is an irregular cross-section in order to impart gloss to the fiber, but in order to impart good gloss, the outer periphery is an elliptical multi-leaf cross-section that is formed alternately with convex portions and concave portions. And more than elliptical quadrilateral. Also, those having a cross section of eight or less shapes are preferable because they exhibit gloss closer to the gloss of sliver silver of rayon. In particular, when the cross section has an elliptical eight-leaf shape, high-grade gloss can be obtained, which is more preferable.
[0014]
The deformation of the cross-sectional shape is preferably in the following range. That is, as shown in FIG. 1, the flatness defined by the ratio A / B of the major axis A and the minor axis B is 1.2 to 1.8.
[0015]
Next, among the straight lines that intersect at right angles with the straight line of the major axis A, the ratio C / D of the minor axis C of the second longest and the minor axis D of the third longest is defined as the degree of irregularity I, and the range is 1.0 to 1 .3.
[0016]
Further, the ratio B / D of the minor axis B to the minor axis D is defined as the degree of irregularity II, and the range is 1.0 to 1.6. In addition, other typical irregular sectional shapes include a flat section and a trilobe section. However, in each case, only glare can be obtained, and the calm luster which is the object of the present invention cannot be obtained. Further, the crystallization in the fiber is apt to progress, and the amorphous portion of the inner layer portion is small, and the dyeing property is poor. On the other hand, the elliptic multilobal polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention has a larger amorphous portion because the crystallization of the inner layer portion is delayed with respect to the outer layer portion of the fiber, so that the dyeing property becomes better and the dyeing in the longitudinal direction of the fiber becomes better. A polyester sewing thread for an embroidery thread with less variation in wear is obtained.
[0017]
The tensile strength of the polyester filament yarn is preferably 2.7 cN / dtex or more, more preferably 3.0 cN / dtex or more, from the viewpoint of preventing yarn breakage during sewing due to insufficient strength.
[0018]
In addition, the sewing thread strength is preferably in the range of 1.75 to 9.8 N from the viewpoint of hand-cutting during sewing, and the sewing machine has a good smoothness, beautifully arranges the seam threads, and has high smoothness. It is desirable as an embroidery thread for yarn. Therefore, in general, a finishing oil such as silicone is applied to the surface in the final step of sewing thread processing. However, it is effective that the friction coefficient between the thread and the running yarn is essentially small. In order to prevent the arrangement of the polyester filament from being disturbed, to improve the slip of the yarn, and to prevent the occurrence of shrinkage after toweling (loop) and sewing, the coefficient of friction between the polyester filament yarn and the yarn is 0.1%. The range is preferably from 15 to 0.3, more preferably from 0.15 to 0.24.
[0019]
The polyester multifilament yarn, which is a raw material of the polyester sewing thread for embroidery, is spun at a high speed, so that the crystallization of the outer layer of the fiber is more advanced than that of the inner layer of the fiber. In other words, the higher the spinning speed, the more the degree of crystallinity of the inner and outer layers of the fiber increases, and the non-crystalline portion of the inner layer of the fiber becomes larger than that of the polyester multifilament yarn obtained by the usual two-step method of spinning and drawing. It is thought that it is easy to penetrate, good dyeability is obtained, and variation in dyeing in the fiber longitudinal direction is reduced.
[0020]
The polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention can be obtained by spinning at a spinning speed of 5000 m / min or more. More preferably, it is 5500 m / min or more and 6500 m / min or less.
[0021]
Since the polyester multifilament yarn causes puckering due to shrinkage of the sewing thread itself after embroidery sewing and significantly lowers the quality of the embroidery product, the dry heat shrinkage of the polyester filament yarn is preferably 5% or less.
[0022]
The single fiber fineness is preferably 0.5 dtex or more, because it is possible to suppress melting of the obtained sewing thread due to frictional heat generated during sewing and breakage of single fibers caused by abnormal tension applied during sewing. On the other hand, by setting the single fiber fineness to 3.3 dtex or less, the texture of the obtained sewing thread becomes softer, the embroidery fabric is well-adapted, and the embroidery does not float, which is preferable. From these viewpoints, the single fiber fineness of the raw thread for the sewing thread is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 3.3 dtex, and from the viewpoint of increasing the buckling property of the sewing thread, it is preferably 0.9 to 2.2 dtex. The range is more preferable.
[0023]
The total fineness of the sewing thread composed of the multifilament thread is preferably 66 dtex or more to prevent thread breakage during sewing, and 333 dtex or less to suppress unevenness in thread arrangement and improve the appearance quality of embroidery products.
[0024]
The polyester multifilament yarn of the present invention can be obtained by the following method. That is, polyethylene terephthalate is melt-spun from a die having a die discharge hole shown in FIG. 1, cooled and solidified, then spun at a speed of 5000 m / min or more, and entangled with the yarn by a spinning oil and an interlace nozzle. And a polyester filament yarn is obtained by winding it up with a winder. The polyester multi-filament yarn is twisted downward, four yarns are lined up and twisted, heat-set at a prescribed steam temperature, wound into a cheese shape using a soft winder, and then subjected to a high-pressure dyeing machine. The polyester sewing thread for embroidery thread can be obtained by dyeing.
[0025]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically with reference to examples.
[0026]
The measured values in the examples and comparative examples were obtained by the following methods.
(1) A value measured using an o-chlorophenol solution having an intrinsic viscosity of 35 ° C.
(2) Variation in dyeing (variation in dyeing difference in the longitudinal direction)
Using FYL-500SR manufactured by Toray Engineering Co., Ltd. at a yarn speed of 60 m / min at a dyeing temperature of 90 ° C. in a dyeing tank with 54 yarns, and a washing tank with a washing temperature of 85 ° C. and a yarn winding number of 9 times. The dyed spots in the longitudinal direction of the washed polyester filament yarn were continuously measured, and the dispersion was calculated. At this time, a dye obtained by adding a dispersant (Sun Salt WA: 0.7 OWf concentration) to DYESTUFF (5% OWf concentration) manufactured by Mitsubishi was used as a dye.
(3) Glossiness (Glitteriness, Irritability)
An embroidery thread is driven into a weft to produce a 1/3 twill fabric, and an automatic variable-angle gloss meter (GP-200) manufactured by Murakami Color Research Laboratory Co., Ltd. (incident angle 45 °, reflection angle 45 °) and Under the condition of (incident angle 45 °,
(4) Tensile strength (cN / dtex) and elongation at break (%)
This is a value measured using a self-recording tensile tester at a test length of 25 cm and a tensile speed of 30 cm / min according to JIS L 1073 (test method for synthetic fiber filaments).
(5) Number of confounds Using entanglement tester R-2060 manufactured by ROTHCHILD, measuring speed 5.0 m / min, trip tension level 10.0 cN, thread length 1.0 cm until next needle puncture after trip, number of repetitions 30 times The measurement conditions were set as follows, and 32 samples were continuously measured. The yarn length from the point where the needle pierced the measurement yarn to the trip tension level (10.0 cN) until it tripped was regarded as the spread length of the unentangled portion, and the number of entanglements was calculated by applying the following formula.
[0027]
Number of confounds = 30,000 / ΣL
ΣL = total opening length (mm)
(6) Yarn-yarn running friction coefficient Calculated by the following formula using a friction measurement device “μ meter” manufactured by Eiko Sangyo Co., Ltd.
[0028]
μd = (1 / π × n × sinβ × log) × log (T 2 / T 1 )
μd = friction coefficient n = twist number = 3
β = twist angle = 7/27
e = 2.718
T 1 = tension on the entry side to the guide (g)
T 2 = tension on the exit side from the guide (g)
The evaluation items and the evaluation method of the sewing thread are as described below.
(7) Fineness (dtex)
According to JIS L 1073, this is a value obtained by collecting a sample length of 100 m using a scale and converting the weight into dtex units.
(8) Two high-density coating materials having a towel mesh width of 12 cm and a length of 12 cm were combined, and satin-stitched in the radial direction at a stitch pitch of 1 mm and 4 mm. The sewing conditions are as follows: Tajima embroidery sewing machine (TMEX-C901) for sewing machine, DB × K5 # 9 made by organ for sewing needle, upper thread tension about 100 g, 120 g, 140 g after pulling out from cloth holder, lower thread tension Approximately 12 to 15 g at a sewing speed of 1200 needles / min. The number of towels on the double ring at that time was visually counted.
(9) Nine radial satin stitching ring patterns having a stitch pitch of 1 mm were formed on one sample having a thread break width of 22 cm and a length of 22 cm. The sewing conditions are Tajima embroidery sewing machine (TMEX-C901), the sewing machine needle is DB × K5 # 9 made by organ, the upper thread tension is pulled out from the cloth holder, about 100 g and 140 g, and the lower thread tension is pulled out from the kama. At a sewing speed of 1200 needles / minute. The number of occurrences of yarn breakage at that time was counted.
(10) Embroidery with various changes in appearance quality (puckering, arrangement unevenness) and texture using the polyester sewing thread on the fabric for sample, and puckering, yarn alignment unevenness, and texture (soft feeling) after 24 hours ) Were evaluated and evaluated on a three-point scale of "Excellent", "Possible", and "Poor". Each judgment was evaluated by handling by a skilled inspector.
[0029]
Examples 1 to 5, Comparative Examples 1 and 2
A polyethylene terephthalate polymer containing no inorganic particles is melt-discharged from a die having a die discharge hole shown in FIG. 1, spun at a spinning speed of 5,000, 5,500, 6000, 6500, 7000, 4000, 4500 m / min, and subjected to entanglement treatment. Wound in a cheese shape, intrinsic viscosity 0.633, single fiber fineness 1.85 dtex, cross-sectional shape is elliptical octafle, flatness = 1.56, irregularity I = 1.18, irregularity II = 1.32. Was produced. The polyester filament yarn was twisted with a lower twist of 636 T / m, and four of the yarns were further aligned and the upper twist of 570 T / m was twisted, followed by heat setting with steam at 110 ° C. Subsequently, it was wound into a cheese shape using a soft winder and dyed at 130 ° C. by a high-pressure dyeing machine in the same manner as ordinary polyester, to produce a sewing thread having a total fineness of 266 dtex.
[0030]
The evaluation of the sewing thread was as shown in Table 1, and all of Examples 1 to 5 showed good results. However, in Comparative Examples 1 and 2, the spots deteriorated and the appearance quality deteriorated due to puckering. did.
[0031]
Comparative Example 3
A polyester sewing thread was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the film was once wound at a spinning speed of 1476 m / min, stretched and heat-treated.
[0032]
The evaluation of the sewing thread was as shown in Table 1. The variation in dyeing was 0.96, the gloss was 24, and the sewing was good. However, the gloss was poor and the occurrence rate of spots was large. It turns out that the quality as a thread is inferior.
[0033]
[Table 1]
[0034]
Examples 6 to 9, Comparative Examples 4 to 6
The glossiness is changed at 35, 47, 63, 68, 24, 80, 94 by varying the flatness, the degree of irregularity I, the degree of irregularity II, and the cross-sectional shape variously as shown in Table 1 at a spinning speed of 6000 m / min. A polyester sewing thread was produced in the same manner as in Example 3 except that the above operation was performed.
[0035]
The evaluation of the sewing thread was as shown in Table 2, and the results of Examples 6 to 9 were all good. However, Comparative Example 4 was poor in luster due to a wefted fabric and was not an object of the present invention. . Further, in Comparative Examples 5 and 6, since towels frequently occur and irritability occurs in the wefted fabric, the same is not the object of the present invention.
[0036]
[Table 2]
[0037]
Examples 10 and 11, Comparative Example 7
A polyester sewing thread was produced in the same manner as in Example 3, except that the entanglement degree was changed to 0, 5, and 9 by changing the compressed air amount of the interlace nozzle during spinning.
[0038]
The results of the evaluation of the sewing thread are shown in Table 3. In Example 11, good results were obtained. In Example 10, the number of towels was slightly increased, but the level was not at a level that would impair the effects of the present invention. In Comparative Example 7, a large number of towel lines were generated, and the degree of glare was large, and was not an object of the present invention.
[0039]
Examples 12 to 14
A polyester sewing thread was produced in the same manner as in Example 3 except that the friction coefficient was changed to 0.187, 0.236, and 0.282.
[0040]
The results of the evaluation of the sewing thread are shown in Table 3. In Examples 12 and 13, good results were obtained. In Example 14, the number of towels was slightly increased, but the level of the effect of the present invention was not impaired. .
[0041]
[Table 3]
[0042]
Examples 15 to 22
A polyester sewing thread was produced in the same manner as in Example 3 except that the total fineness and single yarn fineness were variously changed as shown in Table 4.
[0043]
The results of the evaluation of the sewing thread are shown in Table 4. In Examples 16 to 20, good results were obtained. The effect was not at a level that would be impaired. Further, in Example 21, the single-fiber fineness was large and the texture of the wefted fabric was slightly hard, but not at a level at which the effects of the present invention were impaired. Further, in Example 22, there was some unevenness in the arrangement of the yarns, but the level was not at a level that would impair the effects of the present invention.
[0044]
[Table 4]
[0045]
【The invention's effect】
By using the polyester filament excellent in gloss of the present invention, there is provided a polyester sewing thread for embroidery which has a luxurious and calm gloss, has a beautiful color tone, and does not have thread breakage or deterioration in appearance quality during embroidery sewing. can do.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a conceptual diagram showing an example of a die discharge hole for suitably producing an embroidery polyester sewing thread of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view of an elliptical octafle-shaped single fiber according to an embodiment of the present invention.
FIG. 3 is a cross-sectional view of an elliptic six-lobe single fiber according to an embodiment of the present invention.
FIG. 4 is an explanatory diagram showing the glossiness of the present invention.
Claims (5)
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