JP2003193366A - Method for processing silk - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for processing silk for markedly improving the friction durability, elasticity, color fastness, antimicrobial effect and silk fiber surface gloss retention and the like of silk products while retaining advantages peculiar to silk including breathability, thermal insulation, antistaticity and touch feeling. <P>SOLUTION: This method for processing silk intends the modification of silk products by a reaction between tannic acids as the components of persimmon juice and proteins as the constituents of silk; that is, this method included in the manufacturing process for a silk product comprises the following: raw silk which is scoured, washed with water, dyed, washed with water again and dried or a silk product woven with the raw silk is soaked in persimmon juice in the form of an aqueous solution to effect modification, and subjected to dye fixation treatment through washing with water and using acetic acid or the like, and then dried; alternatively, comprises the following: raw silk which is scoured, washed with water and dried or a silk product woven with the raw silk is soaked in persimmon juice in the form of an aqueous solution to effect modification, and subjected to dye fixation treatment through washing with water, drying, dyeing, washing with water again and using acetic acid or the like and the drying. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2003,JPO

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】Detailed Description of the Invention

【０００１】[0001]

【発明の属する技術分野】本発明は、生糸または生糸で
織られた絹製品の品質を改善する加工方法に関する。The present invention relates to a processing method for improving the quality of raw silk or silk products woven from raw silk.

【０００２】[0002]

【従来の技術】古来から、絹製品は木綿、麻などの天然
繊維と共に日常の生活に使われてきた。天然繊維の中で
も、絹はその光沢による高級感、通気性、保温性、肌触
りの良さ、帯電性が小さいなどの利点から、高級靴下、
高級ストッキング、スカーフ、シャツ、下着などに使用
されてきた。2. Description of the Related Art Since ancient times, silk products have been used in daily life together with natural fibers such as cotton and hemp. Among natural fibers, silk has the advantages of high quality, breathability, heat retention, good touch, and low electrostatic property due to its luster.
It has been used in high-end stockings, scarves, shirts and underwear.

【０００３】特に、１９２０年頃までは、ストッキング
といえば絹製であったが、原料である繭を大量に生産す
るためには生物である蚕を飼育し、蚕の餌である桑を栽
培するなどの手間がかかり、生産性が悪いという問題が
あった。さらに、養蚕の地域、蚕から繭ができる季節な
どが限られている。これらの理由により、絹製品は高級
品で、高価であった。Until around 1920, stockings were made of silk, but in order to produce a large amount of cocoons as raw materials, silkworms, which are living organisms, are bred and mulberry, which is a food for silkworms, is cultivated. However, there is a problem that productivity is poor due to the trouble of. In addition, the area of sericulture and the season when silkworms can cocoon are limited. For these reasons, silk products are expensive and expensive.

【０００４】このような絹製品に対抗するために、絹糸
に代わるものとして、光沢が絹に似たレーヨン（人絹）
が１９２０年代から海外で大量生産されるようになり、
その価格の点から、絹製品を席巻するに至った。その生
糸代替繊維であるレーヨン（人絹）を嚆矢として、天然
繊維は次第に合成繊維に切り替わってきた。In order to counter such silk products, rayon (human silk) whose luster is similar to silk is used as an alternative to silk thread.
Has been mass-produced overseas since the 1920s,
Due to its price, silk products have become dominant. Using rayon (human silk), which is an alternative fiber to raw silk, as an arrow, natural fibers have gradually been replaced by synthetic fibers.

【０００５】特に、ナイロン（商標）、テトロン（商
標）、ビニロンなどが開発されるに及んで、その機能性
向上もあり、通気、吸汗性のよい木綿製の衣類、保温性
のよい羊毛製品及び高級品志向の麻、絹製品以外の天然
繊維商品は市場から姿を消してきた。現在、ナイロン、
テトロン、ビニロンなどの合成繊維はそれぞれの特性を
生かして世界中で最も多く使用されている。その特性は
耐磨耗性、機械的強度、耐化学薬品性などの物性に優れ
ている他、大量生産可能という点である。In particular, nylon (trademark), tetron (trademark), vinylon and the like have been developed, and their functionality has been improved, and cotton clothes having good ventilation and sweat absorption, wool products having good heat retention and Natural fiber products other than luxury hemp and silk have disappeared from the market. Currently nylon
Synthetic fibers such as tetron and vinylon are most widely used all over the world by taking advantage of their respective characteristics. Its characteristics are that it has excellent physical properties such as abrasion resistance, mechanical strength, and chemical resistance, and that it can be mass-produced.

【０００６】一方、天然繊維の中で、従来、絹繊維の加
工工程においては、染色効果促進の目的で、五倍子を精
製して得られるタンニン酸を用いたり、酸性染料等の化
学染色法があるが、前者はその製品の摩擦耐久性が低
く、洗濯等により容易に繊維表面が劣化し、光沢、毛羽
立ち等の品質低下をきたしていたし、後者は、染色法が
複雑でコストが高い難点があった。On the other hand, among natural fibers, tannic acid obtained by purifying quintuple has been used in the conventional silk fiber processing step for the purpose of accelerating the dyeing effect, and there are chemical dyeing methods such as acid dyes. However, the former had low friction durability of the product, the fiber surface was easily deteriorated by washing etc., and the quality was deteriorated such as gloss and fuzz, while the latter had a drawback that the dyeing method was complicated and the cost was high. It was

【０００７】このような欠点と価格などの面から一部高
級品の用途を残して絹製品市場は衰退してきた。しか
し、合成繊維が天然繊維に比べて全ての面で優れている
わけではない。合成繊維は、一般に、通気性が悪い、保
温性が低い、帯電性がある。またそれによるアトピー性
皮膚炎などの原因になりやすいなどの弱点がある。[0007] Due to such drawbacks and price, the silk product market has declined, leaving some high-grade applications. However, synthetic fibers are not superior to natural fibers in all respects. Synthetic fibers generally have poor air permeability, low heat retention, and electrostatic properties. There is also a weak point that it is likely to cause atopic dermatitis and the like.

【０００８】とりわけ、婦人用のパンティストッキング
や、紳士用の靴下では、ナイロン製が主流であり、耐久
性に優れ、安価で提供されているものの、通気性が悪い
という欠点がある。このため、長時間着用していると人
体の局部が雑菌や水虫の温床になりかねず、健康の点で
問題となることが指摘されている。また、ナイロン製の
パンティストッキングの場合、衣服との摩擦で静電気が
生じやすく、放電時の衝撃が嫌われている。[0008] In particular, in women's pantyhose and socks for men, nylon is the mainstream and is excellent in durability and is provided at a low price, but it has the drawback of poor breathability. For this reason, it has been pointed out that if it is worn for a long time, the local parts of the human body may become a hotbed for various bacteria and athlete's foot, which poses a health problem. Further, in the case of nylon panty hose, static electricity is easily generated due to friction with clothes, and shock during discharge is disliked.

【０００９】ここで、人類の長い歴史、文化の中で共存
してきた天然繊維が、合成繊維万能と言われてきた中
で、人間に優しい素材として見直されている。[0009] Here, natural fibers that have coexisted in human beings over a long history and culture have been re-examined as human-friendly materials, while it has been said that synthetic fibers are universal.

【００１０】従来の絹製品の精練以降の製造工程はおよ
そ次の通りである。 精練 製造した生糸を、精練する。 水洗い→染色 精練後、水洗いし、草木染めや化学染料で染色する。 酢酸等の仕上げ→乾燥 色を定着させるために酢酸溶液中に漬け、乾燥させる。 これらの工程により製造された生糸を素材として、織物
を作ることにより、高級感のある多様な製品ができる。The conventional manufacturing process after scouring of silk products is as follows. Scouring The produced raw silk is scoured. Washing with water → dyeing After scouring, wash with water and dye with plant dye or chemical dye. Finishing with acetic acid, etc. → Drying Soak in acetic acid solution to fix the color and dry. By using the raw silk produced by these processes as a raw material to make a woven fabric, various high-quality products can be produced.

【００１１】[0011]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】しかし、絹製品は、繊
維の織り方を工夫しても、摩擦耐久性は低く、ストッキ
ングや靴下の場合、使用回数５〜１０回で繊維が損耗
し、身につけてもダレやすいなど弾力性に乏しく、色が
褪せやすいなど染色堅牢度も悪く、洗濯による表面光沢
の欠如による品質低下などが弱点として存在する。However, even if the weaving method of the fiber is devised, the silk product has low friction durability, and in the case of stockings and socks, the fiber is worn out after 5 to 10 times of use, and Poor elasticity such as easy dripping, poor dyeing fastness such as fading of color, and deterioration of quality due to lack of surface gloss due to washing are weak points.

【００１２】さらに、天然繊維の中でも、特に絹におい
ては、価格が高い割合に強度が弱く、本質的に弾力がな
い、抗菌性がない、洗濯により繊維表面の光沢がなくな
るなどの弱点がある。Further, among natural fibers, particularly silk, there are weaknesses such as low strength, high elasticity, essentially no elasticity, no antibacterial property, and loss of luster on the fiber surface due to washing.

【００１３】そこで本発明が解決しようとする課題は、
絹特有の長所である通気性、保温性、帯電防止性、感触
などを保持しながら、摩擦耐久性、弾力性、染色堅牢
度、抗菌性および繊維表面の光沢維持などを大幅に改善
することにある。Therefore, the problem to be solved by the present invention is as follows.
While maintaining the breathability, heat retention, antistatic properties, and feel that are unique to silk, it is possible to greatly improve friction durability, elasticity, dyeing fastness, antibacterial properties, and maintaining the luster of the fiber surface. is there.

【００１４】[0014]

【課題を解決するための手段】前記課題を解決するた
め、本発明の絹の加工方法は、精練、水洗、染色、水洗
及び乾燥した生糸、またはその生糸で織られた絹製品を
柿渋の水溶液に浸漬することにより改質処理を行い、水
洗、酢酸等による染料の定着処理を行い、乾燥する工
程、または、精練、水洗及び乾燥した生糸、またはその
生糸で織られた絹製品を柿渋の水溶液に浸漬することに
より改質処理を行い、水洗、乾燥、染色、水洗及び酢酸
等による染料の定着処理を行い、乾燥する工程とした。In order to solve the above problems, the silk processing method of the present invention is a raw silk which has been scoured, washed, dyed, washed and dried, or a silk product woven with the raw silk is a persimmon aqueous solution. After being subjected to modification treatment by immersing in water, washing with water, fixing treatment of the dye with acetic acid, etc., and drying, or scouring, washing with water and dried raw silk, or a silk product woven with the raw silk is a persimmon aqueous solution. A modification process was performed by immersing in water, and washing, drying, dyeing, washing, and fixing treatment of the dye with acetic acid were performed, followed by drying.

【００１５】柿渋の水溶液の濃度は、１〜１００％につ
いて強度と着用感を試験した結果、３〜４５％、望まし
くは５〜４０％が好適であることが判明した。柿渋の水
溶液の温度は、常温から水の沸点以下、望ましくは常温
〜６０℃が好適である。ここで、常温とは、環境温度に
対して特に冷やしたり熱したりしない温度であり、平均
的には１５℃である。柿渋の水溶液への浸漬時間は、３
〜６０分、好ましくは５〜３０分とする。As a result of testing the strength and feeling of wearing persimmon astringent aqueous solution for 1 to 100%, it was found that 3 to 45%, preferably 5 to 40% is suitable. The temperature of the aqueous solution of persimmon astringent is from room temperature to the boiling point of water or less, preferably room temperature to 60 ° C. Here, the normal temperature is a temperature at which the ambient temperature is not particularly cooled or heated, and is 15 ° C. on average. Dipping time of Kakishibu in aqueous solution is 3
-60 minutes, preferably 5-30 minutes.

【００１６】[0016]

【発明の実施の形態】以下、本発明の実施の形態につい
て説明する。本発明の特徴は、柿渋の成分であるタンニ
ン酸類と絹の構成成分であるたんぱく質との反応による
絹糸の改質法である。その反応条件と絹の特性とは密接
な関係があり、その適正反応条件の下に本発明は成し遂
げられたものである。BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Embodiments of the present invention will be described below. A feature of the present invention is a method for modifying silk yarn by reacting tannic acids which are components of persimmon astringent with proteins which are components of silk. There is a close relationship between the reaction conditions and the characteristics of silk, and the present invention has been accomplished under the appropriate reaction conditions.

【００１７】生糸処理工程は、生糸→精練→水洗→染色
→水洗→乾燥→柿渋による改質処理→水洗→酢酸等によ
る染料の定着処理→乾燥、または生糸→精練→水洗→乾
燥→柿渋による改質処理→水洗→乾燥→染色→水洗→酢
酸等による染料の定着処理→乾燥からなるが、本発明で
の特徴は柿渋による改質にある。The raw silk treatment process is as follows: raw silk → scouring → rinsing → dyeing → rinsing → drying → modification treatment with persimmon astringent → water washing → fixing treatment of dye with acetic acid → drying or raw silk → scouring → rinsing → drying → modification with persimmon astringent The process consists of quality treatment → washing → drying → dyeing → washing → fixing treatment of dye with acetic acid and the like → drying.

【００１８】・柿渋 タンニン酸類が出やすいように、渋柿を砕いたのでも、
またそれを熟成したものでもよい。または濃度さえ制御
できれば、タンニン酸類そのものでもよい。本明細書に
おいて、「柿渋」には、タンニン酸類をも含むものとす
る。 ・浸漬溶液濃度 柿渋の水溶液中の原液の濃度は３〜４５％まで許容され
るが、望ましいのは５〜４０％の濃度範囲である。３％
未満であると、改質効果のうち摩擦耐久性、弾力性が十
分得られず、４５％を超えると絹特有のしなやかさ、光
沢などが柿渋成分により失われる。 ・浸漬温度 絹繊維の浸漬温度は常温〜水の沸点以下であればよい
が、作業性、コストなどを考慮すれば、理想的には常温
〜６０℃が望ましい。 ・浸漬時間 溶液濃度と浸漬温度により変わるが、作業の生産性を考
慮すれば、３分〜６０分、望ましいのは５〜３０分であ
る。３分未満であると柿渋のタンニン酸と絹のたんぱく
質との化学反応が十分に行われず、３０分程度で化学反
応は十分進行しているので、６０分を超えても時間の無
駄となる。[Persimmon astringent so that tannic acids are easily released, even if the astringent persimmon is crushed,
It may also be aged. Alternatively, tannic acid itself may be used as long as the concentration can be controlled. In the present specification, "persimmon astringent" also includes tannic acids. Immersion solution concentration The concentration of the stock solution in the persimmon astringent aqueous solution is allowed to be 3 to 45%, but the concentration range of 5 to 40% is preferable. 3%
If it is less than 40%, the frictional durability and elasticity of the modifying effect cannot be sufficiently obtained, and if it exceeds 45%, the pliability and luster peculiar to silk are lost by the persimmon astringent component. Immersion temperature The immersion temperature of the silk fiber may be from room temperature to the boiling point of water or less, but ideally from room temperature to 60 ° C. in consideration of workability and cost. Immersion time It depends on the solution concentration and the immersion temperature, but considering the productivity of the work, it is 3 minutes to 60 minutes, preferably 5 minutes to 30 minutes. If it is less than 3 minutes, the chemical reaction between the persimmon tannic acid and the silk protein is not sufficiently carried out, and the chemical reaction is sufficiently progressing in about 30 minutes, so even if it exceeds 60 minutes, time is wasted.

【００１９】本発明の作用について説明すると、従来法
の五倍子を精製して得られるタンニン酸処理による絹繊
維の処理法の目的は、染色効果促進であったが、摩擦耐
久性など絹本来の弱点を補うことはできなかった。これ
に対して本発明は柿渋を使用し、浸漬濃度、浸漬温度、
浸漬時間を適正に制御することにより、絹繊維の構成成
分であるたんぱく質の改質を化学反応により行い、絹特
有のしなやかさ、腰感、絹鳴りなどを保持し、コストを
抑えながら、従来法では得られなかった摩擦耐久性を２
〜３倍と大幅に向上させ、収縮力の強い弾力性を付与
し、洗濯後の光沢保持および抗菌性を持たせたものであ
る。Explaining the function of the present invention, the purpose of the conventional method of treating silk fibers by tannic acid treatment obtained by purifying quintet is to promote the dyeing effect, but weakness inherent in silk such as friction durability. Could not be supplemented. On the other hand, the present invention uses persimmon astringent, immersion concentration, immersion temperature,
By appropriately controlling the dipping time, the protein, which is a constituent of silk fiber, is modified by a chemical reaction to maintain silk's pliableness, suppleness, and squeaking, and to reduce costs while maintaining the conventional method. Friction durability not obtained with 2
It is greatly improved to 3 times, imparts elasticity with strong shrinkage force, and retains gloss after washing and has antibacterial properties.

【００２０】本発明は、驚くべきことに、従来改善でき
ないと思われた上記絹の弱点、つまり、摩擦耐久性、弾
力性、洗濯による洗浄堅牢度の欠如解消などの大幅な改
善を実現したばかりでなく、従来の加工工程では達成で
きなかった、洗濯後の絹特有のしなやかさ、腰感、絹鳴
りなどの保持が可能となり、さらに、水虫、アトピー性
皮膚炎にも効果的な抗菌性も付与される。Surprisingly, the present invention has just realized a great improvement in the weaknesses of the above-mentioned silk which could not be improved in the past, that is, elimination of lack of abrasion resistance, elasticity and washing fastness by washing. In addition, it is possible to retain the suppleness, waist feel, and squeaking of silk that are characteristic of silk after washing, which could not be achieved by conventional processing steps, and also have antibacterial properties that are effective against athlete's foot and atopic dermatitis. Granted.

【００２１】[0021]

【実施例】次に、本発明の実施例について説明する。絹
製品（靴下）および染色、乾燥後の生糸を、柿渋の水溶
液Ａ，Ｂ，Ｃに浸漬させた。比較例Ｄとして、柿渋によ
り改質処理を行わない従来法の生糸を用いた。EXAMPLES Next, examples of the present invention will be described. The silk product (socks) and the raw silk after dyeing and drying were dipped in aqueous solutions A, B and C of persimmon astringent. As Comparative Example D, a conventional raw silk which was not subjected to the modification treatment by persimmon astringent was used.

【００２２】１．摩擦試験 試験法は、摩擦試験機II型を用い、サンドペーパー８０
０ＣＷ、２．５×２３ｃｍ、３枚を使用し、荷重２００
ｇを掛け、絹製品（靴下）が破断するまでの回数の３回
平均を採った。1. The friction test method uses a friction tester type II, sandpaper 80
0CW, 2.5 × 23cm, 3 sheets are used, and the load is 200
It was multiplied by g and the average of three times until the silk product (sock) was broken was taken.

【００２３】２．着用試験 任意に抽出した２０名の成人男性に対し、実施例Ａ，
Ｂ，Ｃ及び比較例Ｄの絹製品の着用試験を実施した。１
日８時間着用し、破れるまでの耐用回数を調べ、また弾
力性、着用感について回答を求めた。その結果を表１に
示す。2. Wearing test For 20 adult males arbitrarily selected, Example A,
Wear tests of the silk products of B, C and Comparative Example D were carried out. 1
They were worn for 8 hours a day, the number of times they were to be torn was examined, and answers were asked for elasticity and wearing feeling. The results are shown in Table 1.

【００２４】[0024]

【表１】 [Table 1]

【００２５】以上の試験結果より、柿渋の水溶液濃度は
５〜４０％が適していることが見いだされた。From the above test results, it was found that a persimmon astringent aqueous solution concentration of 5 to 40% is suitable.

【００２６】[0026]

【発明の効果】上述したように、本発明によれば次の効
果を奏する。As described above, the present invention has the following effects.

【００２７】１．物性の向上 （１）摩擦耐久性を従来法より、２〜３倍に向上させる
ことができた。 （２）染色堅牢度も従来法より２度から３度向上でき
た。 （３）従来法で見かけられた、毛羽立ちにより絹製品の
表面が白く見える現象が防止できた。 （４）洗濯（クリーニング）による品質劣化の防止（従
来法では染色堅牢度が低下する）を図ることができた。 （５）繊維の弾力性を付与できた（従来法ではダレ
る）。 （６）絹鳴りが増し、従来法では３級品が１級品とな
る。1. Improvement of physical properties (1) It was possible to improve friction durability 2-3 times as compared with the conventional method. (2) The dyeing fastness was also improved by 2 to 3 times compared with the conventional method. (3) It is possible to prevent the phenomenon that the surface of the silk product looks white due to the fluffing, which is seen in the conventional method. (4) It was possible to prevent quality deterioration due to washing (cleaning) (the dyeing fastness decreases in the conventional method). (5) The elasticity of the fiber could be imparted (the conventional method causes dripping). (6) Silk noise increases, and the conventional method makes the grade 3 product the grade 1.

【００２８】２．感触の向上 （１）光沢等は失わずに、すべりが従来法より少ない。 （２）絹の特性である光沢と艶が従来法より出る。 （３）風合いが従来法より良い。 （４）衣類の場合、履き心地、着心地が従来法より良
く、爽快感を覚える。2. Improved feel (1) Slip is less than conventional methods without losing gloss. (2) Gloss and luster, which are the characteristics of silk, are more visible than conventional methods. (3) The texture is better than the conventional method. (4) In the case of clothing, it is more comfortable to wear and wear than conventional methods, and feels refreshing.

【００２９】３．機能性付加 （１）従来法のものにない抗菌性が付与される。3. Addition of functionality (1) An antibacterial property which is not obtained by the conventional method is imparted.

Claims (5)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項１】 精練、水洗、染色、水洗及び乾燥した生
糸、またはその生糸で織られた絹製品を柿渋の水溶液に
浸漬することにより改質処理を行い、水洗、酢酸等によ
る染料の定着処理を行い、乾燥することを特徴とする絹
の加工方法。1. A raw silk which has been scoured, washed with water, dyeed, washed with water and dried, or a silk product woven with the raw silk is immersed in an aqueous solution of persimmon astringent to carry out a modification treatment, washed with water, and fixed with a dye such as acetic acid. A method for processing silk, which comprises performing and drying. 【請求項２】 精練、水洗及び乾燥した生糸、またはそ
の生糸で織られた絹製品を柿渋の水溶液に浸漬すること
により改質処理を行い、水洗、乾燥、染色、水洗及び酢
酸等による染料の定着処理を行い、乾燥することを特徴
とする絹の加工方法。2. Raw silk which has been scoured, washed with water and dried, or a silk product woven with the raw silk is immersed in an aqueous solution of persimmon astringent for modification treatment, and washed with water, dried, dyed, washed with water, and dyed with acetic acid. A method for processing silk, which comprises fixing and drying. 【請求項３】 柿渋の水溶液の濃度を３〜４５％、好ま
しくは５〜４０％とした請求項１または２に記載の絹の
加工方法。3. The method for processing silk according to claim 1, wherein the concentration of the aqueous solution of persimmon astringent is 3 to 45%, preferably 5 to 40%. 【請求項４】 柿渋の水溶液の温度を常温から水の沸点
以下、好ましくは常温〜６０℃とした請求項１から３の
いずれかの項に記載の絹の加工方法。4. The method for processing silk according to claim 1, wherein the temperature of the aqueous solution of persimmon astringent is from room temperature to the boiling point of water or less, preferably room temperature to 60 ° C. 【請求項５】 柿渋の水溶液への浸漬時間を３〜６０
分、好ましくは５〜３０分とした請求項１から４のいず
れかの項に記載の絹の加工方法。5. A dipping time of persimmon astringent in an aqueous solution is 3 to 60.
Minutes, preferably 5 to 30 minutes. The method for processing silk according to any one of claims 1 to 4.