IL31344A - Articles of clothing - Google Patents

Description

IMPROVEMENTS IN OR HEIATING TO ARTICLES OP CLOTHING □m?K onm n«n?n naia α*?ΐ73σ This invention concerns a two-legged lower-body garment or nether garment of the type comprising an upper knitted part or body portion adapted to fit around the waist and the lower part of the trunk and beneath the crotch of the wearer and a depending pair of legs knitted integrally with the body portion« It is particularly concerned with garments of the clas s comprising panti-hose, body stockings, leotards, tights, pantaloons having full-length legs, and pants having legs reaching to just above or just below the knee of the wearer.

In substance garments of the clas s referred to, as commonly constructed, consist of a pair of long stockings united at their upper ends to pantie s, and prior to the pre sent invention each garment has consisted of a plurality of shaped blanks seamed in together and/ the finished condition has been of bifurcated form with the legs extending side-by- side. These garments have usually been made by the succes sive steps of knitting, separately, a pair of stockings of extra length, subsequently cutting the inner sides of the welt-to-thigh portions of these stockings longitudinally, and thereafter seaming the cut edges either wholly to appropriate edges of a separately-produced interposed gus set or partly to a gus set and partly to one another. As hereinafter appears an object of the present invention is a method by which a garment of the type or class specified can be made les s expensively. A further object is a method by which it can be made from a single blank of e s sentially seamle s s tubular form throughout. A further object is a garment capable of fitting a wide range of hyman anatomy sizes, and a method of its manufacture. The invention provides a method of making a nether garment of the type specified, and particularly a garment of the clas s referred to which comprises knitting three integral seamle s s tubular portions in continuation of one another, viz. a fir st leg portion, an intermediate portion for eventually forming the pant portion, and a second leg portion, and providing a waist opening in said intermediate portion. In the finished garment the three said portions may be substantially aligned when not in wear. Desirably, at least the intermediate portion is knitted wholly or in the main of stretchable yarn and this permits it to conform to the lower body of the wearer and permits the legs, in wear, to extend substantially side-by- side.

The expres sion " stretchable yarn" include s stretch yarn and elastomeric yarn. A stretch yarn is a yarn made from thermoplastic fibre or fibre s, usually in continuous filament form, which is capable of a pronounced degree of elongation and a rapid recovery, this property having been conferred on the yarn by it having been subjected to an appropriate combination of deforming, heat setting, and developing treatments,, The expres sion include s crimped yam, torque yarn, and non- torque yarn, It is preferred to employ stretch yarns havii S and Z twist or false twist knitted in an alternating sequence, or a knit-de-knit yarn,, Typical examples of suitable elastomeric: yarns are sold under the Registered Trade Marks "Lycra" -&ftd-USpa«eell«.|i--and under the designations "Glo-Span" and "Blue C"„ and "Spanzelle The waist opening may be formed during the knitting operation, or subsequent thereto.

This invention also includes the garment itself and the one-piece blank therefor,, In order that the invention may be better understood, reference will now be made to the accompanying drawing in which: - Figure 1 shows one form of the blank according to the invention; Figure 2 shows one form of completed garment, of the class referred to, according to the invention; Figures 3 and 4 are views, looking in directions at right angles to one another, illustrating modifications; Figure 5 illustrates the manufacture of the blanks in continuous string form; Figure 6 shows a modified garment, substantially as worn; Figure 7 illustrates a further modification; Figure 8 illustrates an automatically- closed The blank shown in Figure 1 consists of three integral and substantially- aligned seamles s tubular portions, viz. a leg and foot portion 10, a pant-forming portion 1 1 , and a second leg and foot portion 12. Portion 1 1 is knitted wholly or in the main of stretch yarn and portions 10 and 12 are preferably but not neces sarily knitted wholly or in the main of stretch yarn„ The blank is knitted on a circular knitting machine so that it has the same number of wales throughout.

The portions 10 and 1 may be shaped slightly by the known proce s s of " stiffening" commonly employed in the manufacture of ladie s ' stockings. The portion 1 1 may be knitted of somewhat stouter yarn or yarns than those of which the portions 10, 12 are wholly or in the main knitted, and this re sults in the portion 1 1 being of slightly increased diameter. Alternatively or in addition the diameter of portion 1 1 may be increased by knitting it with slacker (longer) stitche s and, specifically it may be knitted with slack cour se s alternating with les s - slack cour ses. The latter as sist in knocking- over the slack cour se s. Alternatively, portion 1 1 may be knitted of a yarn having a still- greater capacity for stretch. At their open outer ends the portions 10, 12 may themselves incorporate two seamle s s parts 13, 14 knitted of stretchable yarns of somewhat stouter character. Thus the portion 1 1 , and parts 13 and 14 may be knitted of continuous filament torque yarns 40 denier and S and Z twist, and the main length of portions 10, 12 knitted of 20 denier S and Z twist yarns so as to have a sheer and translus cent appearance. Portion 1 1 , or portions 10 and 12, or all three portions may be knitted in micro-mesh or a non- run knitted structure.

As illustrated in Figure 5, a succe s sion of blanks can be knitted in continuous string form as a continuous tube in which the parts 13, 14 of consecutive blanks are continuous with one another., The tube is eventually separated at regions A into the separate blanks. The cutting and seaming of the toes may be effected at the time of separation, or subsequently.

A suitable circular knitting machine has a diameter of over 3" and the number of needle s is 80- 474. Specifically the machine may be 4^" diameter and the number of needles 408.

A suitable knitting spe cification is as follows : - Region Cour ses Make-up 8 Waste 72 Toe Portion 264 Leg 2136 Pant Portion 1584 Leg 2136 Toe Portion 264 Waste 4 It will, of course, be understood that the diameter and gauge of the machine is chosen in accordance with th( size of yarns to be employed and the desired size of the finished garment.

After the blank has been removed from the machine the open end of each portion 13, 14 is cut and .seamed between the points 15, 16 to an appropriate toe shape. The toe s of the garment are not ne ces sarily of the shape shown; for example each toe seam may extend in a direction substantially normal to the plane of the paper.

Instead of the toe s being cut and seamed, they may be closed automatically on the knitting machine in the proce s s of knitting the garment blank by adapting known methods of automatically closing the toes of stockings, and Fig. 8 illustrates such a toe in per spective at 13a. It will be seen that the toe is visually distinguished by radiating puckers or pleats.

A cut is also made in the portion 1 1 to provide a waist opening of appropriate size and this waist opening is provided with a sewn- on elasticated waist band 17. This last mentioned cut may be made as a slit in the wale- wise direction. A wale- wise guide line for the cut may be produced during knitting: - for example by an appropriate recurrent . stitch formation (e. g. a line of tuck stitche s) or by preventing one or two needle s knitting. Alternatively, an area of the fabric of a suitable shape and size may be cut out.

Desirably the cut extends for a given number of cour ses and not over a given fabric length. For this purpose, during knitting two marker s may be produced on the portion 1 1 which markers are spaced apart by a predetermined number of courses so as to indicate the length to which the cut is to be made. These markers, which are conveniently in the form of coursewise bands, are visually distinguishable from the remainder of portion 1 1 and may be constituted by a stitch variation or yarn colour or shade variation. Specifically, on the region of each end of the portion 1 1 the re may be a plurality of markers spaced a given number of cour ses apart. For example each end of the portion 1 1 may consist of a band of plain fabric having, at regular cour se intervals, one or two visually- distinguishable courses. The se may be produced by introducing an additional yarn at, for example, every sixth course. Except for these plain bands, portion 1 1 may, like portions 10 and 1.2, be knitted in micro-me sh or run- re sist structure.

The circumferential location of the waist opening, or the cut therefor (whether made subsequently to knitting or, as hereinafter des cribed, during knitting) may be as required. For . example it may be substantially aligned, wale-wise, with the tips of the toes or may be offset, circumferentially of the tube, from the aligned position.

The waist band 17 is preferably made of two- way stretch fabric and, before sewing - on, has a width of 4-" to 2" . Des irably it has a fixed length before sewing on, which therefore determines the size of the finished waist opening.

The garment illustrated comprises a body portion 1 1 ' and legs 10' , 12' (with cut. and seamed toes 13' , 14' ) integral therewith and a waist opening with waist band 17, If the garment is . knitted wholly or in the main of stretch yarns it is de sirable that the step of boarding (which is normally applied to stockings knitted of stretch yarns ) shall be omitted, although the garments may be boarded if desired. The omis sion of the step of boarding has the advantage that any one garment is capable of fitting a very wide range of human sizes. The step of boarding stockings, knitted of stretch yarns, in which they are drawn onto boards or forms and while on them are subjected to heat(in the regions of 120° C for nylon 6 and 1 25° C for nylon 66) and moisture, sets the stockings to a given size and shape and inhibits the degree of stretch pos ses sed by the stockings. While such a boarded stocking, knitted of stretch yarns, is capable of fitting a range of human leg and foot size s this range is limited. On the other hand, if as in the present invention, the step of boarding is omitted the range of human anatomy sizes the garment will fit is considerably increased.

. The pre sent garments are. preferably subjected, in the grei to a relaxing treatment effected under the action of heat and moisture which develops the stretch qualities of the yarn and enhances the capacity of the garments for elastic stretch and recovery. This relaxing treatment may be combined with a dyeing treatment.

This relaxing treatment may be effected while the garments are limp and untensioned and under conditions such that its elasticity is not reduced and such as not to heat- set the yarn.

The temperature employed in this treatment should be les s than the temperature at which the yarn has been pre- set and should not be substantially greater than 105° C and may be below 95° C. For example the garments may be. treated in a dyebath the temperature of which is raised in stages to a maximum of 85° - 90° C.

In a specific example, for scouring and dyeing the garments a Smith rotary drum dyer or similar machine may be employed. The garments, in limp and untensioned condition, are placed in mesh nets and then placed in equal proportions in each compartment of the drum, the latter having first been filled with cold water and the requisite amount of scouring and disper sing agents having been added. The garments are rotated in this cold bath for 20 minutes. The temperature of the bath is then progres sively raised to 1 15° F over a period of 20 minutes.

At this temperature the dye chemicals are added, the bath- being held at this temperature for a further 15 minutes after which its temperature is progre s sively raised from 140° F over a period of 40 minutes. The bath is held at this temperature for a further 30 minutes, after which the garments are checked for shade. In an alternative proce ss the waist slit is cut after the dyeing proces s.

This complete s the dyeing cycle and the garments are then cooled and rinsed while in the drum. They are then removed from the drum, subjected to hydro extraction, removed from the nets and dried (e, g. tray dried) at a suitable temperature, for example 200° F. The garments are then ready for wear. However, if de sired the garments may be ironed to enhance their appearance.

Alternatively, a non- rotary dyer, in which the goods remain Stationary and the dye liquor is circulated through them, may be employed.

In a further alternative, the treatment may be applied in an autoclave at super- atmospheric pres sure, the garments being in untensioned condition.

While a relaxing and stretch- developing treatment according to any of the foregoing, examples re sults in the garments having good stretch propertie s, it may re sult in their having a pleated or wrinkled appearance, unle ss they are subsequently ironed.

Therefore in another mode of relaxing treatment the garments may be placed on flat metal supports of such a size and shape as not to distend the garments, and while thereon are dyed in an autoclave at a temperature in the region of 95° - 105 ° C this tempe rature being held for a very brief period, say about 80 seconds. This contrasts with the temperature of 120° - 125 ° C, and the duration of about l hour s, normally employed in dyeing stockings.

The blank shown in Figure 1 is knitted throughout by rotation. However, if desired each portion 10, 12 may be formed with a heel pouch produced by narrowing and widening in a manner known in itself, (e. go during reciprocation). Alternatively, heel pouche s may be formed by the introduction of spaced partial courses during rotational knitting. A partial cour se is a cour se which doe s not extend for the full circumference of the tube. Alternatively, each heel area may be reinforced by part- round splicing with a splicing yarn which itself may be a stretch yarn such for example as false twist yarn, each spliced area being suitably shaped. Since the introduction of partial courses, or of part- round splicing, is effected during rotational knitting it is nece s sary either to avoid the formation of floats, or to cut them out as knitting proceeds, or to cut them out after knitting has been finished, in known manner. An area of each portion 10, 12 corresponding to the sole of the foot may be reinforced by splicing.

In a modification illustrated in Figure 3 the margins 18 are whereat the portion 10 and 12/united to the portion. 1 1 , are, for at least a part of their length, diagonal to the wales and courses. To achieve this the same yarns that are employed for the portions 10 and 12 are continued through the portion 1 1 but are supplemented by a splicing or reinforcing yarn which may be a stretch yarn. At the commencement of the portion 1 1 this additional yarn produces part- round splicing the arc of which progres sively increases until the additional yarn is knitted by all the needles. * At the other end of portion 11 the rever se procedure is adopted. A wale-wise band 19 of part- round splicing, of a. still further stretch yarn, may be provided along part 11. It is within this band 19 that the waist opening is to be cut. Floats of the added yarn or yarns must be avoided or cut out. Although this band is shown as extending for the full length of portion 11, it can stop short, of the ends of this portion.

This band 19 can be knit of elastomeric or rubber yarn so as to provide, when cut along its centre line, the waist band 17, the cut edge s being suitable finished- off and, . if neces sary, the band being suitable reinforced (e. g. by stitching) at the ends of the cut to prevent the latter spreading.

When the garment so far described is not being worn, the three portions 10, 11, 12 are in substantial alignment. Some divergence from this alignment may be provided by the modification illustrated in Figure 6.

In Figure 6 two pouches 18 and 19, resembling heel pouches, are knitted in the portion 11 at the hip regions and extend over the same arc of circumference of said portion. They provide additional fabric in these regions which producessome divergence of the leg portions from alignment with portion 11, each pouch being symmetrically disposed with regard to the waist-opening cut. . These pouches may be produced by narrowing and widening, following any patternknown for heel pouches, during reciprocatbry knitting or by the introduction of partial cour ses during rotary knitting.

Each of them may be symmetrical with respect to a central wale, or axis of symmetry, or may be assymetrical. If they are symmetrical, the line of the waist slit may coincide with, or may be displaced from, the axis of symmetry.

Alternatively the portion 1 1 may be shaped by the introduction of spaced partial courses during circular knitting, thereby to ensure a greater length of fabric along the top of portion 1 1 as illustrated by the area 1 1a in Figure 7. For example, in area 1 1a every third course may be a part- circular course knitted on some only of the needles, the intervening two courses being circular cour ses knitted on the full circle of needles. The waist cut may be made along the axis of symmetry of area 1 1a or along a line offset from the axis of symmetry.

It is within the scope of the invention to vary the frequency, and/or the circumferential length, of the partial courses. For example, in the case of a multi-feed machine, as knitting progresses from an end of portion 1 1 to the medial point in its length, a progressively- increasing number of the feeds may be controlled to produce partial courses of the same, or of progres sively- changing, length, the reverse procedure being adopted after pas sing the medial point. Thus , in the case of an eight-feeder machine (i. e. a machine having eight spaced feeding and knitting stations) knitting of portion 1 1 is commenced at all feeders; at a given stage one or more of these feeder s are caused to produce partial courses while the remainder produce circular knitting and at a further stage one or more of these remaining feeders is caused to produce partial courses while the feeder or feeder s still remaining produce circular knitting; this sequence is then reversed. The partial courses produced at one stage may have the same, or a different, circumferential length as the partial courses produced at the next stage. Alternatively, at a given stage some of the feeders continue to knit circular courses and the other feeder s change to knitting partial courses of differing lengths. Thus for example, in the case of an eight feeder machine, at the given stage two feeders continue to knit circular courses, two feeders knit partial course s of one length, two feeder s knit partial courses of another length, and the remining two feeders knit partial course s of a third length. In a further alternative, circular knitting can be commenced on a proportion of the feeders, the other feeders being introduced at a given stage, or progres sively, to produce partial courses of differing length s.

It will be understood that in the bla nks and garments herein described the wales extend lengthwise, and the courses extend width- wise (i. e. circumferentially) of portions 10, 1 1 , 12, the number of the wales being constant. Such blanks may readily be knitted on a circular knitting machine of an appropriate diameter and with the appropriate number of needle s. If the blank incorporates pouches knitted by narrowing and widening during reciprocation, the machine may be provided with conventional pouching mechanism:- indeed a conventional seam- less hose machine may be employed.

It has already been stated that the cut for the waist opening may be made during knitting. Thus the knitting, machine may be equipped, at a predetermined location, with a cutter which cuts along a needle wale or sinker wale. For example there may be a needle having, on its shank, a projection formed with a cutting edge so that upon this needle being selectively raised to a height above its clearing height the edge cuts the head of a needle loop. Alternatively, a sinker having a cutting edge may be selectively projected inwards to cut the head of a sinker loop, or a cutting jack may be provided among the sinkers.

The reference to a garment or a desired part thereof being knitted wholly or in the main of stretch yarn or elastomeric yarn is not intended to preclude the alternation of courses of stretch yarn and courses of non- stretch or flat yarn in a desired sequence. For example, in a desired part of the garment balanced courses of S and Z yarn may be interspersed with courses of flat yarfj„ Thus a suitable repeat ing course sequence may be S, F, Z, F, or S, F, S, Z, F, Z, where each letter F indicates a course of flat yarn. A circular knitting machine having a plurality of yarn feeding and knitting stations, so that a plurality of courses is knitted at each revolution, may be employed.

It is the scope of the invention to knit the leg and foot portions 10, 12 of non- stretch yarn in which case at least these portions may be. boarded or dye-boarded. Particularly in the case of a garment in which the portion 1 1 is knitted wholly or in the main of stretch yarn or elastomeric yarn and the leg portions 10, 12 of non- stretch yarn, the ends of the portions 10, 12 may be left open (i? e, the garment is without feet) ; such a construction is applicable to pantaloons and pants. The ends of the leg portions may be elasticated.

If the leg portions are " stiffened" then, since knitting commences at the toe end of one leg portion, the commencement is made with relatively small or tight stitche s; these are made progre s sively slacker as knitting proceeds up the leg to the junction with the pant portion The latter is knit with the same, or slightly greater slackne s s and at or after the end of the pant portion is reach ed the slacknes s is progre s sively reduced as knitting proceeds down the other leg.

It will be appreciated that the garment according to the pre sent invention is madein an inexpensive and rapid manner, is capable of fitting a wide range of human anatomy size s, and provide s a good fit in the body portion and legs.

Claims (3)

1. WHAT IS CLAIMED IS: 1. A method of making a two-legged garment of the class referred to and having a pant portion for enclosing the lower part of the trunk and extending beneath the crotch of the wearer and a pair of integral legs each terminating in a foot having a closed toe, said pant portion having a waist opening, which method comprises knitting, as a continuous seamless tube, three integral tubular portions viz, a first leg portion,, an intermediate portion for eventually forming the pant portion, and then a second leg portion which seamless tube is knitted by rotation substantially throughout to form a continuous seamless tube of knitted wales which extend throughout the tube, and closing the toes of the garment.
2. 2. A method of making a seamless panti-hose, which comprises (a) knitting a tubular garment blank on a circular knitting machine by continuous undirectional rotary knitting from one end of the blank to the other while (b) knitting a first leg portion by first forming integrally-knit toe, foot, ankle, and lower and upper leg sections, (c) knitting an intermediate portion onto said first leg portion, and (d) knitting a second leg portion onto said intermediate portion by forming integrally-knit second upper and lower leg sectionsBand second ankfe, foot, and toe sections; and (e) slitting said intermediate portion in a walewise direction to form a waist opening therein.
3. 3. A method according to Claim 1 or Claim 2, in which 4. A method according to any of the preceding Claims, wherein the leg portions are knitted of stretchable yarn, and each of them is provided with a close toe either by cutting and seaming the fabric, or automatically on the knitting machine* 5. A method according to Claim 4, in which the toe section of each leg portion is reinforced during knitting* 6. A method according to any of the preceding Claims, in which each of the three integral portions is knitted, at least in the main of stretch yarn, and the garment is subjected, while in limp and untensioned condition, to a relaxing treatment effected under the action of heat and moisture which develops the stretch qualities of the yarn and enhances the capacity of the garment for elastic stretch recovery. 7. A method according to Claim 1, in which the ube is knitted on a circular knitting machine and the three portions are knitted wholly by rotation. 8. A method according to any of the preceding Claims, including the step of applying a stretchable waist band to the waist opening. 9. A method according to any of the preceding Claims, including the steps of knitting, into the intermediate portion, two markers which are spaced apart by a predetermined number of courses, and subsequently cutting the waist opening to a length determined by the spacing of the markers. 10. method according to any of Claims 1-7, including the steps of providing a wale-vise extending band of knitted elastomeric yarn jo the pant portion and orming the eaist opening within said band. 11. A method according to any of Claims 1—10, including the step of producing, in the pant portion, a walewise guide line and making a slit for the waist opening, along the guide line. 12. A method according to any of Claims 1-10, including the steps of providing the pant portion with a walewise band of part-round splicing and making a slit for the waifct opening in this band. 14. A method of making a two-legged nether garment of the class referred to, substantially described herein. 15. A two-legged garment of the class referred to, comprising a pant portion for enclosing the lower part of the trunk and extending beneath the crotch of the wearer and having a waist opening, and a pair of integral legs each terminating in a foot having a closed toe, which garment comprises a continuous seamless knitted tube forming the pant portion and the legs and feet with the knitted wales of the legs and feet extending through said legs and feet into the pant portion and with the knitted courses extending circumferentially of said tube. 16. A one-piece seamless unidirectional rotary knitted panti-hose having knitted wales and courses therein, comprising a seamless tubular pant portion baring an upper waist opening and a crotch portion, seamless tubular legs integral with the pant portion and defining the with closed toes, which garment has an area, extending from the waist opening down to and including the crotch portion, all the vales of which area extend into the legs. 17» A garment according to Claim 15 or Claim 16, having the pant portion knitted, at least in the main, of stretchable yarn, 18. A garment according to ClaimlT, having the legs knitted of stretchable yarn. 19» A garment according to any of Claims 15-18, having the pant portion knitted if stouter yarn than the legs. 20. A gairment according to any of Claims 15-19, having the legs a,nd the pant portion knitted of stretch yarn, which garment is characterised in that it is unboarded. 21. A garment according to any of Claims 15-20, having the waist opening constituted by a walewise extending , interruption in the tubular form of the pant portion and provided with an elastic waist band. 22* A garment according to any of Claims 15-21^ which is knitted, at least in the main, of stretchable yarn, the legs are substantially aligned with the pant portion at opposite ends of the latter, the elasticity of the pant portion affords a capacity for stretch in the latter which permits the legs to extend side by side in wear, and the waist opening is elasticated. 23. A garment according to any of Claims 15-22, in which the pant portion is of greater diameter than the legs. 24. A garment according to any of Claims 15-22,1 in which the pant portion is knitted with slacker stitches than the legs. 25. A garment according to any of Claims 15-24, in which the pant portion comprises front and rear areas of heavier texture, the margins of which areas converge downwardly. 26. A garment according to any of Claims 15-25, having the legs shaped by sti fening. 27. A garment according to any of Claims 15-26, having a pant portion, or the legs, or the pant portion and the legs, knitted in micro-mesh or a non-run knitted structure. 28. A two—legged garment of the class referred to substantially as described herein. 29. A blank for a garment according to any of Claims 15-28 constituted by a seamless tube comprising three integral tubular portions viz, a first leg portion, an intermediate portion suitable for eventually forming the pant portion of the garment, and a second leg portion, the wales of which tube extend continuously through the three portions, the intermediate portion being knitted at least in the main of stretch yarn or elastomeric yarn,, the leg portions being knitted of stretch yarn and the length of the leg portions being greater than that of the intermediate portion and being suitable to provide the legs and feet of the garment. 30. A blank for a garment according to Claim 29, substantially as described therein. A garment, being the product of the method claimed in any of Claims 1-14. COHENdZEDEK & SFISBACH P.O. Box 33116, Tel Aviv Attorneys for Applicant.