FR2702766A1 - New synthetic compounds, process for preparing them and use in cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical preparations for improving suntanning (bronzing) - Google Patents
New synthetic compounds, process for preparing them and use in cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical preparations for improving suntanning (bronzing) Download PDFInfo
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- FR2702766A1 FR2702766A1 FR9303055A FR9303055A FR2702766A1 FR 2702766 A1 FR2702766 A1 FR 2702766A1 FR 9303055 A FR9303055 A FR 9303055A FR 9303055 A FR9303055 A FR 9303055A FR 2702766 A1 FR2702766 A1 FR 2702766A1
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- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
- C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
- C07C233/00—Carboxylic acid amides
- C07C233/01—Carboxylic acid amides having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms
- C07C233/45—Carboxylic acid amides having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms having the nitrogen atom of at least one of the carboxamide groups bound to a carbon atom of a hydrocarbon radical substituted by carboxyl groups
- C07C233/46—Carboxylic acid amides having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms having the nitrogen atom of at least one of the carboxamide groups bound to a carbon atom of a hydrocarbon radical substituted by carboxyl groups with the substituted hydrocarbon radical bound to the nitrogen atom of the carboxamide group by an acyclic carbon atom
- C07C233/49—Carboxylic acid amides having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms having the nitrogen atom of at least one of the carboxamide groups bound to a carbon atom of a hydrocarbon radical substituted by carboxyl groups with the substituted hydrocarbon radical bound to the nitrogen atom of the carboxamide group by an acyclic carbon atom having the carbon atom of the carboxamide group bound to a carbon atom of an acyclic unsaturated carbon skeleton
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
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Abstract
Description
L'utilisation cosmétique et dermopharmaceutique de l'acide aminé tyrosine et de certains dérivés pour accélérer le bronzage naturel est connue. La tyrosine libre n'est pourtant pas très soluble aux concentrations nécessaires et efficaces, son emploi est donc limité. La solution à ce problème, apportée à ce jour, est la dérivatisation de la tyrosine soit par voie chimique soit par voie enzymatique pour faire des produits plus hydrosolubles et donc plus compatibles avec les crèmes et autres produits destinés à la protection solaire: L-malyl-L-tyrosine (brevet français n" 2621916), N-acétyl-tyrosine (UK patent application GB 2198042), gluconate de tyrosine et autres.The cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical use of the amino acid tyrosine and certain derivatives for accelerating natural tanning is known. Free tyrosine is however not very soluble at the necessary and effective concentrations, its use is therefore limited. The solution to this problem, brought to date, is the derivatization of tyrosine either chemically or enzymatically to make more water-soluble products and therefore more compatible with creams and other products intended for sun protection: L-malyl -L-tyrosine (French patent no. 2621916), N-acetyl-tyrosine (UK patent application GB 2198042), tyrosine gluconate and others.
Ces produits ont des inconvénients technologiques (brunissement dans le temps, odeur, prix) que l'objet de la présente invention se propose de combler.These products have technological drawbacks (browning over time, odor, price) which the object of the present invention proposes to overcome.
II a été découvert, que certains dérivés de la tyrosine, la N-oléoyl-L -tyrosine en particulier, présentent des avantages considérables par rapport aux autres produits dérivés de la tyrosine: la N-oléoyl-Ltyrosine n'est pas soluble dans l'eau, mais soluble dans des lipides, ce qui fait qu'elle peut être facilement incorporée dans des émulsions (crèmes, laits, pommades) à différentes doses. Le faible coût de sa synthèse permet son utilisation à des concentrations très efficaces. It has been discovered that certain derivatives of tyrosine, N-oleoyl-L-tyrosine in particular, present considerable advantages compared to the other products derived from tyrosine: N-oleoyl-Ltyrosine is not soluble in l water, but soluble in lipids, which means that it can be easily incorporated into emulsions (creams, milks, ointments) in different doses. The low cost of its synthesis allows its use at very effective concentrations.
Elle se présente sous forme huileuse ou pâteuse, ce qui permet d'éviter toute étape de prédissolution lors de l'emploi. It comes in oily or pasty form, which avoids any predissolution step during use.
La chaîne monoinsaturée est stable dans le temps et confère à la molécule une activité antiradicalaire supplémentaire, ce qui complète son action de protection solaire.The monounsaturated chain is stable over time and gives the molecule additional anti-free radical activity, which completes its sun protection action.
Nous allons décrire ces points plus en détail.We will describe these points in more detail.
LA SYNTHESE
La synthèse des dérivés N-acylés de la L-Tyrosine peut être réalisée par les voies classiques de la formation d'une liaison amide entre un acide et une amine, à savoir par un chlorure d'acide, par un azoture, par un anhydride, par un ester de paranitrophénol, par un ester de succinimide, par un ester de dicyclohexylcarbodiimide, par un ester de pentafluorophenol, par un ester d'alkyle inférieur, en milieu an hydre ou partiellement aqueux ou, dans des solvants tels que le tétrahydrofuranne, la pyridine, le diméthylformamide et le dichlorométhane.SYNTHESIS
The synthesis of N-acylated derivatives of L-Tyrosine can be carried out by the conventional routes of the formation of an amide bond between an acid and an amine, namely by an acid chloride, by an azide, by an anhydride , with a paranitrophenol ester, with a succinimide ester, with a dicyclohexylcarbodiimide ester, with a pentafluorophenol ester, with a lower alkyl ester, in an aqueous or partially aqueous medium or, in solvents such as tetrahydrofuran, pyridine, dimethylformamide and dichloromethane.
A titre d'exemple, nous décrivons la synthèse suivante:
On mélange sous agitation 38 g d'acide oléique, 170 g de tetrahydrofurane et 14.5 g de triéthylamine. On refroidit à -5 C et on ajoute, toujours en dessous de 0 C, 14.8 g de chloroformate d'éthyle pour former l'anhydride mixte de formule RCOOCOOC2H5 où R est le radical de l'acide oléique. On agite 30 minutes à 0 C, puis on ajoute entre 0 et 5"C une suspension de 5.4 g de soude et de 23,56 g de tyrosine, dissous dans 125 g d'eau.As an example, we describe the following synthesis:
38 g of oleic acid, 170 g of tetrahydrofuran and 14.5 g of triethylamine are mixed with stirring. Cool to -5 ° C. and add, still below 0 ° C., 14.8 g of ethyl chloroformate to form the mixed anhydride of formula RCOOCOOC2H5 where R is the radical of oleic acid. The mixture is stirred for 30 minutes at 0 ° C., then a suspension of 5.4 g of sodium hydroxide and 23.56 g of tyrosine, dissolved in 125 g of water, is added between 0 and 5 ° C.
On agite pendant une heure à 0 C, puis 15 heures à 20"C. On ajoute de l'acide chlorhydrique jusqu'à pH 2-3 et on filtre l'insoluble sur Clarcel. On décante la phase aqueuse inférieure et on lave le THF par 3 fois 50 g d'eau salée. The mixture is stirred for one hour at 0 ° C., then 15 hours at 20 ° C. Hydrochloric acid is added to pH 2-3 and the insoluble material is filtered through Clarcel. The lower aqueous phase is decanted and the mixture is washed. THF per 3 times 50 g of salt water.
On sèche sur 15 g de sulfate de magnésium, puis on concentre sous vide à 50"C; on obtient ainsi 57 g d'une huile jaune de "N-oléoyl-Ltyrosine" contenant 25-30% d'acide oléique libre (tous les pourcentages indiqués par la suite sont des pourcentages massiques).Dried over 15 g of magnesium sulfate, then concentrated in vacuo at 50 "C; thus obtaining 57 g of a yellow oil of" N-oleoyl-Ltyrosine "containing 25-30% of free oleic acid (all the percentages indicated below are mass percentages).
Une purification par chromatographie liquide permettrait d'éliminer l'acide oléique en excès mais, pour l'utilisation prévue ceci n'est pas nécessaire.Purification by liquid chromatography would remove excess oleic acid, but for the intended use this is not necessary.
On peut donc employer dans les produits cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques, des dérivés N-acyl-tyrosine décrits sous forme pure ou sous forme de mélange avec l'acide gras libre correspondant en excès. Cette dernière forme a l'avantage supplémentaire, en ce qui concerne l'acide oléique, de profiter de l'activité connue de cet acide5 à savoir la capacité de faire pénétrer un principe actif à travers la couche cornée vers l'épiderme.It is therefore possible to use, in cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical products, N-acyl-tyrosine derivatives described in pure form or in the form of a mixture with the corresponding free fatty acid in excess. This latter form has the additional advantage, as regards oleic acid, of taking advantage of the known activity of this acid5, namely the ability to make an active principle penetrate through the stratum corneum towards the epidermis.
Les proportions de l'acide gras libre associé au dérivé de la tyrosine peuvent varier entre 0.1 et 40%.The proportions of the free fatty acid associated with the tyrosine derivative can vary between 0.1 and 40%.
De la même façon peuvent être synthétisés les dérivés N-palmitoléyl
L-tyrosine, N-eicosénoyl-L-tyrosine et N-linoléoyl-L-tyrosine.In the same way can be synthesized N-palmitoleyl derivatives
L-tyrosine, N-eicosenoyl-L-tyrosine and N-linoleoyl-L-tyrosine.
Ces produits sont pourtant plus chers. L'acide oléique utilisé peut provenir de toute source. II peut être employé sous forme très pure ou bien sous forme dite "technique", contenant au moins 65 % d'acide oléique, ce qui implique qu'il contienne un certain pourcentage d'acides gras insaturés autres qu'oléique (linoléique, linolénique, palmitoléique), mais aussi des acides gras saturés. La proportion d'acides gras saturés ne doit toutefois pas dépasser 20%. These products are however more expensive. The oleic acid used can come from any source. It can be used in very pure form or in so-called "technical" form, containing at least 65% oleic acid, which implies that it contains a certain percentage of unsaturated fatty acids other than oleic (linoleic, linolenic , palmitoleic), but also saturated fatty acids. The proportion of saturated fatty acids must not, however, exceed 20%.
Une remarque identique s'applique aux autres acides gras insaturés éventuellement utilisés.The same remark applies to other unsaturated fatty acids that may be used.
Pour modifier encore la solubilité du produit, il peut être avantageux de préparer un amide ou un ester méthylique ou éthylique de la molécule.To further modify the solubility of the product, it may be advantageous to prepare an amide or a methyl or ethyl ester of the molecule.
La formule générale des produits objets du brevet est donc
R1-CO-Tyr-Y (I) dans laquelle:
R1 désigne un radical hydrocarboné C11 à C19 linéaire et portant une ou plusieurs insaturations éthyléniques, et notamment une ou deux, ou un mélange de radicaux hydrocarbonés en C11-C19, linéaires, saturés ou portant une ou plusieurs insaturations éthyléniques et notamment une ou deux, dans lequel la proportion de radicaux saturés ne peut excéder 20%.The general formula of the products which are the subject of the patent is therefore
R1-CO-Tyr-Y (I) in which:
R1 denotes a linear C11 to C19 hydrocarbon radical bearing one or more ethylenic unsaturations, and in particular one or two, or a mixture of C11-C19 hydrocarbon radicals, linear, saturated or bearing one or more ethylenic unsaturations and in particular one or two, in which the proportion of saturated radicals cannot exceed 20%.
Y désigne OH, O M+, OCH3, OC2H5 ou Nu, avec M+ = Na+, K+ ou NH4+. Y denotes OH, O M +, OCH3, OC2H5 or Nu, with M + = Na +, K + or NH4 +.
Tyr désigne le résidu Tyrosyle tel qu'il est employé dans la description des protéines.Tyr denotes the Tyrosyle residue as used in the description of proteins.
L'activité bronzante:
Des crèmes solaires ont été préparées contenant 0.0% (placebo), 0.5%, 1% et 1.5% de N-oléoyl-L-tyrosine. Quinze personnes volontaires de phototype Il à IV ont appliqué les crèmes, en quantité égales, sur des zones définies de l'avant-bras. Des irradiations UVA, à doses constantes, ont été administrées pendant 2 semaines. La coloration progressive de la peau est mesurée par chromamètrie (MINOLTA).Tanning activity:
Sun creams were prepared containing 0.0% (placebo), 0.5%, 1% and 1.5% of N-oleoyl-L-tyrosine. Fifteen volunteers of phototype II to IV applied the creams, in equal quantities, to defined areas of the forearm. UVA irradiation, at constant doses, was administered for 2 weeks. The progressive coloring of the skin is measured by chromametry (MINOLTA).
On constate un bronzage plus rapide avec les crèmes contenant la
N-oléoyl-L-tyrosine qu'avec le placebo: I'effet dose est significatif. There is a faster tan with creams containing
N-oleoyl-L-tyrosine than with placebo: the dose effect is significant.
En comparaison, d'autres dérivés de la tyrosine à la concentration équivalente ont une activité d'accélération de bronzage inférieure.In comparison, other tyrosine derivatives at the equivalent concentration have a lower tanning acceleration activity.
La résistance à l'eau:
Un test de bronzage supplémentaire avec 3 personnes a été entrepris.Water resistance:
An additional tanning test with 3 people was undertaken.
Après l'application de la crème contenant la N-oléoyl-L-tyrosine (1.5%) suivie d'une période d'attente de 10 minutes, I'endroit d'application a été lavé à l'aide d'une éponge imbibée d'eau. L'irradiation UVA a été effectuée directement après sèchage du bras à l'aide d'une serviette.After applying the cream containing N-oleoyl-L-tyrosine (1.5%) followed by a waiting period of 10 minutes, the place of application was washed using a soaked sponge of water. UVA irradiation was performed directly after drying the arm with a towel.
La N-oléoyl-L-tyrosine a été comparée aux dérivés hydrosolubles de la tyrosine du commerce aux concentrations équivalentes.N-oleoyl-L-tyrosine was compared with water-soluble derivatives of commercial tyrosine at equivalent concentrations.
II en résulte que la N-oléoyl-L-tyrosine reste absorbée dans la peau et peut agir en tant qu'accélérateur de bronzage, alors que les dérivés hydrosolubles ont été en grande partie éliminés par le "lavage"'. As a result, N-oleoyl-L-tyrosine remains absorbed into the skin and can act as a tanning accelerator, while the water-soluble derivatives have been largely eliminated by "washing".
Test d'activité "antiradicalaire"
Pour ce test, on met des acides gras polyinsaturés (lécithines naturelles) en présence d'un système fortement oxydatif (H2O2 + FeCI2). On rajoute le produit à tester aux concentrations habituelles et on mesure l'apparition des peroxydes lipidiques qui peuvent être dosés par voie chimique ou spectroscopique."Anti-free radical" activity test
For this test, polyunsaturated fatty acids (natural lecithins) are put in the presence of a strongly oxidative system (H2O2 + FeCI2). The product to be tested is added at the usual concentrations and the appearance of lipid peroxides is measured, which can be measured chemically or spectroscopically.
La N-oléoyl-L-tyrosine à 1% et à 2% montre une forte activité antiradicalaire (95% et 98% d'inhibition de la peroxydation).1% and 2% N-oleoyl-L-tyrosine shows strong anti-free radical activity (95% and 98% inhibition of peroxidation).
Les dérivés de la tyrosine objets du brevet peuvent être avantageusement utilisés dans tout produit cosmétique ou dermopharmaceutique, dans les gels, les lotions, les émulsions H/E ou E/H, les laits, les pommades et onguents, pâtes, dans les huiles corporelles, les lotions capillaires, les shampooings les savons, les sticks et les crayons, les sprays.The tyrosine derivatives which are the subject of the patent can be advantageously used in any cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical product, in gels, lotions, O / W or W / O emulsions, milks, ointments and ointments, pastes, in body oils. , hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays.
Ils s'emploient non seulement dans les produits pour la préparation au soleil, dans les produits de protection solaire et dans les produits aprèssoleil, mais également dans toute préparation cosmétique de soins, permettant de protéger la peau durant la journée même contre les faibles doses d'irradiation (exposition quotidienne normale): les crèmes de jour, les fonds de teint, les produits de maquillage, les masques, lipsticks.They are used not only in products for sun preparation, in sun protection products and in after-sun products, but also in any cosmetic care preparation, which protects the skin during the day even against low doses of 'irradiation (normal daily exposure): day creams, foundations, make-up products, masks, lipsticks.
Cette liste n'est pas limitative.This list is not exhaustive.
Pour être efficace, il faut employer des doses variant de 0.05 à 10%, de préférence entre 0.1 et 5% du composé de formule (I) selon l'effet désiré.To be effective, it is necessary to use doses varying from 0.05 to 10%, preferably between 0.1 and 5% of the compound of formula (I) depending on the desired effect.
On emploie le composé de formule (I) en présence d'un adjuvant choisi parmi les corps gras, les solvants1 I'eau, les épaississants, les émulsions, les produits hydratants, les adoucissants, les filtres solaires, les germicides, les colorants, les conservateurs, les parfums, les propulseurs et les tensio-actifs.The compound of formula (I) is used in the presence of an adjuvant chosen from fatty substances, water solvents, thickeners, emulsions, moisturizers, softeners, sun filters, germicides, dyes, preservatives, perfumes, propellants and surfactants.
Les composés de formule (I) peuvent être incorporés dans des vecteurs comme les liposomes, les chylomicrons, les macro-, micro- et nanoparticules ainsi que les macro-, micro- et nanocapsules ou, absorbés sur des polymères organiques poudreux, les talcs, bentonites et autres supports minéraux. The compounds of formula (I) can be incorporated into vectors such as liposomes, chylomicrons, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles as well as macro-, micro- and nanocapsules or, absorbed on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and other mineral supports.
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FR9303055A FR2702766B1 (en) | 1993-03-15 | 1993-03-15 | New synthetic compounds, process for obtaining them and use in cosmetic and dermopharamceutical preparations to improve tanning. |
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FR9303055A FR2702766B1 (en) | 1993-03-15 | 1993-03-15 | New synthetic compounds, process for obtaining them and use in cosmetic and dermopharamceutical preparations to improve tanning. |
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Cited By (14)
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WO2010067327A1 (en) | 2008-12-11 | 2010-06-17 | Sederma | Cosmetic composition containing acetylated oligoglucuronans |
WO2010082175A2 (en) | 2009-01-16 | 2010-07-22 | Sederma | New compounds, in particular peptides, compositions comprising them and cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical uses |
WO2010082176A2 (en) | 2009-01-16 | 2010-07-22 | Sederma | Cosmetic composition containing kxk type peptides and uses |
WO2010136965A2 (en) | 2009-05-26 | 2010-12-02 | Sederma | Cosmetic use of tyr-arg dipeptide to combat cutaneous sa |
US8361516B2 (en) | 2006-08-03 | 2013-01-29 | Sederma | Composition comprising sarsasapogenin |
US8404648B2 (en) | 2006-02-16 | 2013-03-26 | Sederma | Polypeptides KXK and their use |
US8507649B2 (en) | 2006-05-05 | 2013-08-13 | Sederma | Cosmetic compositions comprising at least one peptide with at least one immobilized aromatic cycle |
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US8846019B2 (en) | 2005-09-06 | 2014-09-30 | Sederma | Use of protoberberines as an active substance regulating the pilosebaceous unit |
US9050477B2 (en) | 2009-04-17 | 2015-06-09 | Sederma | Cosmetic compositions comprising oridonin and new cosmetic uses |
FR3031301A1 (en) * | 2015-01-05 | 2016-07-08 | Jean-Noel Thorel | NOVEL COMPOSITION COMPRISING CHROMIUM AND TYROSINE DERIVATIVES FOR SKIN TREATMENT |
FR3128375A1 (en) | 2021-10-26 | 2023-04-28 | Sederma | Cosmetic, dermatological or cosmeceutical treatment, in particular propigmenting |
WO2024133788A1 (en) | 2022-12-22 | 2024-06-27 | Sederma | Method for obtaining an extract of plant origin, a composition containing it and its cosmetic use |
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US8404648B2 (en) | 2006-02-16 | 2013-03-26 | Sederma | Polypeptides KXK and their use |
US8507649B2 (en) | 2006-05-05 | 2013-08-13 | Sederma | Cosmetic compositions comprising at least one peptide with at least one immobilized aromatic cycle |
US8361516B2 (en) | 2006-08-03 | 2013-01-29 | Sederma | Composition comprising sarsasapogenin |
WO2010067327A1 (en) | 2008-12-11 | 2010-06-17 | Sederma | Cosmetic composition containing acetylated oligoglucuronans |
WO2010082176A2 (en) | 2009-01-16 | 2010-07-22 | Sederma | Cosmetic composition containing kxk type peptides and uses |
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WO2010136965A2 (en) | 2009-05-26 | 2010-12-02 | Sederma | Cosmetic use of tyr-arg dipeptide to combat cutaneous sa |
WO2014080376A2 (en) | 2012-11-26 | 2014-05-30 | Sederma | Pro-pigmenting peptides |
US9534015B2 (en) | 2012-11-26 | 2017-01-03 | Sederma | Pro-pigmenting peptides |
US10231917B2 (en) | 2012-11-26 | 2019-03-19 | Sederma | Pro-pigmenting peptides |
US10660839B2 (en) | 2012-11-26 | 2020-05-26 | Sederma | Pro-pigmenting peptides |
US11324687B2 (en) | 2012-11-26 | 2022-05-10 | Sederma | Pro-pigmenting peptides |
EP4198041A2 (en) | 2012-11-26 | 2023-06-21 | Sederma | Cosmetic peptides |
FR3031301A1 (en) * | 2015-01-05 | 2016-07-08 | Jean-Noel Thorel | NOVEL COMPOSITION COMPRISING CHROMIUM AND TYROSINE DERIVATIVES FOR SKIN TREATMENT |
FR3128375A1 (en) | 2021-10-26 | 2023-04-28 | Sederma | Cosmetic, dermatological or cosmeceutical treatment, in particular propigmenting |
WO2023072758A1 (en) | 2021-10-26 | 2023-05-04 | Sederma | Cosmetic, dermatological or cosmeceutical treatment, in particular propigmenting |
WO2024133788A1 (en) | 2022-12-22 | 2024-06-27 | Sederma | Method for obtaining an extract of plant origin, a composition containing it and its cosmetic use |
FR3144163A1 (en) | 2022-12-22 | 2024-06-28 | Sederma | Process for obtaining an extract of plant origin, a composition containing said extract and its cosmetic use |
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FR2702766B1 (en) | 1995-04-28 |
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