FR2582941A1 - Cosmetic composition based on mulberry leaf extracts - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition based on mulberry leaf extracts Download PDFInfo
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- FR2582941A1 FR2582941A1 FR8508773A FR8508773A FR2582941A1 FR 2582941 A1 FR2582941 A1 FR 2582941A1 FR 8508773 A FR8508773 A FR 8508773A FR 8508773 A FR8508773 A FR 8508773A FR 2582941 A1 FR2582941 A1 FR 2582941A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Mycology (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Medicines Containing Plant Substances (AREA)
Abstract
Description
La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique à base d'extraits de feuilles de mûriers (morus alba). The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition based on extracts of mulberry leaves (morus alba).
On sait que les vers à soie ne consomment que des feuilles de mûriers sélectionnés (comme par exemple le "Kokuso 21"), à exclusion de toutes autres feuilles. We know that silkworms consume only selected mulberry leaves (such as "Kokuso 21"), to the exclusion of all other leaves.
Compte tenu du fait que, grâce à cette nourriture unique, le ver à soie grossit en 25 jours de 10.000 fois, change en 4 mues à la fois de peau et de tête, construit un cocon avec 1 kilomètre et demi de fils de soie, se transforme en chrysalide, et enfin se métamorphose en papillon, c'est-à-dire en un insecte parfait, nous avons été amenés à étudier et analyser des extraits de feuilles du mûrier.Given the fact that, thanks to this unique food, the silkworm grows in 25 days by 10,000 times, changes into 4 moults of both skin and head, builds a cocoon with 1 and a half kilometers of silk thread, turns into a chrysalis, and finally turns into a butterfly, that is to say into a perfect insect, we were led to study and analyze extracts of mulberry leaves.
La teneur exceptionnelle de ces feuilles en acides gras insaturés indispensables et bien entendu d'autres substances biologiques, laissait prévoir une application biologique.The exceptional content of these leaves in essential unsaturated fatty acids and of course other biological substances, suggested a biological application.
Selon le brevet d'invention publié sous le numéro 2 336 941 (Nippon Shinyaku Co, Ltd.), on connait des extraits de mûrier contenant principalement du 2-hydroxyméthyl-3,4,5-trihydroxypipéridine, ayant une action sur la biosynthèse des lipides, notamment une action anti hyperglycémique . Ces extraits sont obtenus de préférence à partir de la poudre sèche de racines et d'écorces de cette plante. L'écorce a également été utilisé comme diurétique ou antitussif en médecine traditionnelle chinoise. Enfin récemment de nombreux acides aminés ont été trouvés dans les feuilles du mûrier (Poonia et coll.,
Chem. Abstr. 92, 212.174j, (1980); Imanishi et coll.According to the invention patent published under number 2 336 941 (Nippon Shinyaku Co, Ltd.), there are known mulberry extracts containing mainly 2-hydroxymethyl-3,4,5-trihydroxypiperidine, having an action on the biosynthesis of lipids, in particular an anti hyperglycemic action. These extracts are preferably obtained from the dry powder of roots and barks of this plant. The bark has also been used as a diuretic or cough suppressant in traditional Chinese medicine. Finally, recently, numerous amino acids have been found in the leaves of the mulberry tree (Poonia et al.,
Chem. Abstr. 92, 212.174j, (1980); Imanishi et al.
Chem. Abstr. 101, 71710w (1984). Cependant il semble que des extraits de feuilles de mûrier n'aient pas encore fait l'objet d'études sur le corps humain et, en tous cas, pas d'études cosmétiques ou dermo-pharmaceutiques. Chem. Abstr. 101, 71710w (1984). However, it seems that extracts of mulberry leaves have not yet been the subject of studies on the human body and, in any case, no cosmetic or dermo-pharmaceutical studies.
Nous avons maintenant trouvé que des extraits de feuilles du mûrier ont des propriétés eudermiques et eutrophiques permettant leur utilisation en cosmétique. We have now found that extracts of mulberry leaves have eudermic and eutrophic properties allowing their use in cosmetics.
L'invention concerne donc une composition cos métique à base d'extraits de feuilles du mûrier (Morus alba) extraits dans lesquels on a détecté, d'une façon inattendue, une forte proportion de flavonoldes(bioflavonoldes),dont les travaux les plus récents ont par ailleurs mis en évidence l'importance biologique, particulièrement dans le revêtement cutané (C. DURANDEAU,
Thèse doct.univ.Bordeaux, 1978; RAO C.N. et coll.The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition based on extracts of mulberry leaves (Morus alba) extracted in which an unexpectedly high proportion of flavonoldes (bioflavonoldes) has been detected, including the most recent works have also highlighted the biological importance, particularly in the skin covering (C. DURANDEAU,
Thesis doct.univ.Bordeaux, 1978; RAO CN et al.
Indian J. of Biochemistry and Biophysics, 1981, 18, 224).Indian J. of Biochemistry and Biophysics, 1981, 18, 224).
L'invention concerne donc en particulier les compositions à base d'extraits de feuilles de mûrier contenant des flavonoïdes. Les extraits contiennent en outre des acides aminés essentiels, des acides gras insaturés (acides gras essentiels), des lipides apolaires (glycérides, cholestérol, et ses esters, squalène, etc.), mis en évidence après séparation chromatographique et analyse des divers extraits.The invention therefore relates in particular to compositions based on extracts of mulberry leaves containing flavonoids. The extracts also contain essential amino acids, unsaturated fatty acids (essential fatty acids), non-polar lipids (glycerides, cholesterol, and its esters, squalene, etc.), demonstrated after chromatographic separation and analysis of the various extracts.
L'extraction est effectuée de manière connue en soi, de préférence à l'aide de solvants organiques usuels tels que l'éther de pétrole, acétone (éventuellement aqueuse), choroforme, méthanol ou éthanol (éventuellement aqueux), éther, acétate d'éthyle, etc, séparément ou en mélange, et elle peut être suivie d'un traitement par chromatographie, par exemple sur colonne de gel de silice, dans le cas où une fraction de composants plus homogène est désirée (par exemple les flavonoldes). En général plusieurs extractions peuvent s'avérer utiles. The extraction is carried out in a manner known per se, preferably using usual organic solvents such as petroleum ether, acetone (optionally aqueous), choroform, methanol or ethanol (optionally aqueous), ether, acetate. ethyl, etc., separately or as a mixture, and it can be followed by a treatment by chromatography, for example on a column of silica gel, in the case where a fraction of more homogeneous components is desired (for example the flavonoldes). In general, several extractions can be useful.
Les exemples suivants non limitatifs illustrent ltobtention et l'utilisation d'extraits selon l'invention. The following nonlimiting examples illustrate the obtaining and use of extracts according to the invention.
EXEMPLE 1 10) Extraction
a) Délipidation
On place 50 grammes de feuilles demûrier dans un ballon avec un mélange de 120 ml d'éther de pétrole et 240 ml de chloroforme.EXAMPLE 1 10) Extraction
a) Delipidation
50 grams of mulberry leaves are placed in a flask with a mixture of 120 ml of petroleum ether and 240 ml of chloroform.
On agite pendant 1/4 d'heure, puis on filtre. Stir for 1/4 hour, then filter.
I1 reste 300 ml de solution, dont on sépare une partie pour examen ultérieur de la fraction lipidique. There remains 300 ml of solution, part of which is separated for further examination of the lipid fraction.
cette analyse a permis de séparer et d'identifier des lipides apolaires notamment l'alcool oléique, le palmitate de cholestérol, la béta-carotène, le cholestérol, l'huile de maïs, la tristéarine, et la squalane). this analysis made it possible to separate and identify apolar lipids, in particular oleic alcohol, cholesterol palmitate, beta-carotene, cholesterol, corn oil, tristearine, and squalane).
b) On met alors les feuilles dans 350 ml d'une solution aqueuse d'acétone à 75%. b) The leaves are then placed in 350 ml of a 75% aqueous acetone solution.
Cette solution est chauffée à 60 dans un bain marie à 70"C (avec réfrigérant ascendant). This solution is heated to 60 in a water bath at 70 "C (with ascending refrigerant).
Après filtration on récupère 225 ml de solution. After filtration, 225 ml of solution are recovered.
c) On place alors les feuilles dans 300 ml d'acétone aqueuse à 60%. c) The leaves are then placed in 300 ml of 60% aqueous acetone.
Cette solution est chauffée, toujours dans un bain marie à 70"C et avec un réfrigérant ascendant. On porte à l'ébullition pendant 1/4 d'heure,
Après filtration on récupère 250 ml de solution.This solution is heated, still in a water bath at 70 "C and with an ascending refrigerant. It is brought to the boil for 1/4 hour,
After filtration, 250 ml of solution are recovered.
d) Les feuilles sont alors placées dans une solution de méthanol à 80% 300 ml. d) The leaves are then placed in an 80% methanol solution 300 ml.
On chauffe au bain marie à 80% pendant 1/4 d'heure et-on filtre. It is heated in a water bath at 80% for 1/4 hour and filtered.
2") Analyse
On prend 100 ml de chacune de ces solutions b, c et d et l'on hydrolyse séparément avec 10 ml d'HCl à 10%.2 ") Analysis
100 ml of each of these solutions b, c and d are taken and hydrolyzed separately with 10 ml of 10% HCl.
On chauffe pendant une heure, toujours sous réfrigérant ascendant. On ajoute alors 20 ml d'acétate d'éthyle dans un ballon à décantation et l'on recueille par séparation le liquide inférieur. It is heated for one hour, always under ascending refrigerant. 20 ml of ethyl acetate are then added to a separating flask and the lower liquid is collected by separation.
On procède alors à la chromatographie sur gel de silice dans un solvant (mélange de toluène, formiate d'éthyle et acide formique dans la proportion 5-4-1). Chromatography is then carried out on silica gel in a solvent (mixture of toluene, ethyl formate and formic acid in the proportion 5-4-1).
Résultats
Grâce à des réactifs appropriés et surtout du réactif de NEU, spécifique des flavonoldes, et sous rayons U.V. (254 et 366 nm), on met facilement en évidence les tâches fluorescentes correspondant aux divers types de constituants.Results
Thanks to appropriate reagents and especially the NEU reagent, specific for flavonoldes, and under UV rays (254 and 366 nm), it is easy to highlight the fluorescent spots corresponding to the various types of constituents.
- dans l'extrait chloroformique a) délipidé on a encore mis en évidence (U.V. 366 nm) des pigments caroténones et xantophylles.- in the chloroform extract a) delipidated, we have again highlighted (UV 366 nm) carotenone and xantophyll pigments.
- dans les extraits acétoniques b) et c) on a mis en évidence les flavonoides après hydrolyse acide, par leurs aglycones respectives libérées; par ailleurs on a déterminé les acides suivants : acide férulique, acide gentésique, acide gallique, acide vanillique et acide trans-ci nnamique.- In the acetone extracts b) and c), the flavonoids have been identified after acid hydrolysis, by their respective released aglycones; in addition, the following acids were determined: ferulic acid, magnesic acid, gallic acid, vanillic acid and trans-ci nnamic acid.
- dans l'extrait méthanolique d) des acides aminés (notamment cystéine, glycine, asparagine, lysine, tryptophane, acide glutamique, tyrosine, méthionine, leucine, isoleusine, arginine; par contre la serine, l'alanine, llhydroxyproline et la proline ne sont pas présents).- in the methanolic extract d) amino acids (in particular cysteine, glycine, asparagine, lysine, tryptophan, glutamic acid, tyrosine, methionine, leucine, isoleusine, arginine; on the other hand serine, alanine, llhydroxyproline and proline do not are not present).
EXEMPLE 2
On passe au mixer, 20 grammes de feuilles de mûrier et on les place dans 90 ml d'un mélange de méthancl-chloroforme (30-60).EXAMPLE 2
We pass to the mixer, 20 grams of mulberry leaves and we place them in 90 ml of a mixture of methancl-chloroform (30-60).
On soumet à une agitation magnétique, à froid, pendant 6 heures, puis on effectue une distillation. On termine cette distillation sous vide. Magnetic stirring is carried out, cold, for 6 hours, then distillation is carried out. This distillation is terminated under vacuum.
On obtient un extrait sec de 0,8 g (contenant en particulier des lipides et des flavonoides) que l'on dissout dans 10 g de palmitate d'isopropyle. A dry extract of 0.8 g is obtained (containing in particular lipids and flavonoids) which is dissolved in 10 g of isopropyl palmitate.
Cette solution se fait à 97%. Avec la perte, on obtient une solution à 7% directement utilisable. This solution is done at 97%. With the loss, a directly usable 7% solution is obtained.
EXEMPLE 3
Protocole opératoire (semi-industriel) pour l'obtention du glycolysat de feuilles de mûrier.EXAMPLE 3
Operating protocol (semi-industrial) for obtaining the glycolysate of mulberry leaves.
On place 300 grammes de feuilles de mûrier dans 2,700 litres d'un mélange hydro-glycolé (eau 30% - propylène glycol 70%). Dans la cuve,on ajoute les adjuvants de fabrication usuels pour l'extraction de plantes et l'on chauffe à 80" pendant 2 heures. 300 grams of mulberry leaves are placed in 2,700 liters of a hydro-glycol mixture (water 30% - propylene glycol 70%). In the tank, the usual manufacturing aids for the extraction of plants are added and the mixture is heated at 80 "for 2 hours.
Précipitation.Precipitation.
Filtration.Filtration.
EXEMPLE 4 : Crème visage traitante
Formule (% poids
Extrait chloroformique (exemple 1 a) évaporé 0,50
Extrait acétonique (exemple 1 b) évaporé 0,50
Acide stéarique 8,00
Alcool cétylique 2,00
Polysorbate 40 2,00
Stéarate de glycol "AE" 2,60
Decylester d'acide oléique 4,00
Monopropylèneglycol 4,00
Méthylchloroisothiazolinone 0,20 "Carbopol 934" 0,30
Paraoxybenzoate de méthyle sodé 0,10
Paraoxybenzoate de propyle sodé 0,10
Parfum 0,20
Eau déminéralisée qsp 100 EXAMPLE 4 Treating face cream
Formula (% weight
Chloroform extract (example 1 a) evaporated 0.50
Acetonic extract (example 1 b) evaporated 0.50
Stearic acid 8.00
Cetyl alcohol 2.00
Polysorbate 40 2.00
Glycol stearate "AE" 2.60
Oleic acid decylester 4.00
Monopropylene glycol 4.00
Methylchloroisothiazolinone 0.20 "Carbopol 934" 0.30
Sodium methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.10
Sodium propyl paraoxybenzoate 0.10
Perfume 0.20
Demineralized water qs 100
Claims (4)
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR8508773A FR2582941B3 (en) | 1985-06-11 | 1985-06-11 | COSMETIC COMPOSITION BASED ON EXTRACTS OF MURIER LEAVES |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR8508773A FR2582941B3 (en) | 1985-06-11 | 1985-06-11 | COSMETIC COMPOSITION BASED ON EXTRACTS OF MURIER LEAVES |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| FR2582941A1 true FR2582941A1 (en) | 1986-12-12 |
| FR2582941B3 FR2582941B3 (en) | 1987-10-09 |
Family
ID=9320075
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR8508773A Expired FR2582941B3 (en) | 1985-06-11 | 1985-06-11 | COSMETIC COMPOSITION BASED ON EXTRACTS OF MURIER LEAVES |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| FR (1) | FR2582941B3 (en) |
Cited By (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO1988009654A1 (en) * | 1987-06-12 | 1988-12-15 | Lvmh Recherche | Composition containing extract of mulberry tree |
| FR2673530A1 (en) * | 1991-03-06 | 1992-09-11 | Moreau Monique | Anti-free-radical and anti-malonaldehyde extracts of mulberry leaves |
| ES2050074A1 (en) * | 1991-08-23 | 1994-05-01 | Fischer Pharma Ltd | Compositions containing flavonoids |
| FR2830754A1 (en) * | 2001-10-12 | 2003-04-18 | Silab Sa | Production of an agent with a soothing effect on stinging, burning and itching sensations and redness of the skin comprises extracting powdered mulberry leaves with water |
| CN104095801A (en) * | 2014-07-08 | 2014-10-15 | 重庆市蚕业科学技术研究院 | Anti-acne mask and preparation method thereof |
| US11400043B2 (en) | 2019-12-10 | 2022-08-02 | Mary Kay Inc. | Cosmetic composition |
-
1985
- 1985-06-11 FR FR8508773A patent/FR2582941B3/en not_active Expired
Cited By (11)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO1988009654A1 (en) * | 1987-06-12 | 1988-12-15 | Lvmh Recherche | Composition containing extract of mulberry tree |
| FR2616328A1 (en) * | 1987-06-12 | 1988-12-16 | Moet Hennessy Rech | COMPOSITION BASED ON HYDRATED LIPID LAMINAR PHASES OR LIPOSOMES CONTAINING A MURDER EXTRACT, OR AT LEAST ONE FLAVONE, IN PARTICULAR A KUWANONE AND PHARMACEUTICAL COMPOSITION, IN PARTICULAR DERMATOLOGICAL, WITH DEPIGMENTING OR ANTI-INFLAMMATORY ACTIVITY, OR COSMETIC, INCORPORATING THE SAME |
| EP0296923A1 (en) * | 1987-06-12 | 1988-12-28 | Lvmh Recherche | Liposomal composition containing a mulberrytree extract |
| JPH03501843A (en) * | 1987-06-12 | 1991-04-25 | エルブィエムアー リシェルシェ | Compositions based on hydratable lipid lamellar phases or liposomes consisting of a mulberry extract and a pharmaceutical composition, in particular a dermatological composition with skin-lightening or anti-inflammatory activity, or a cosmetic composition |
| FR2673530A1 (en) * | 1991-03-06 | 1992-09-11 | Moreau Monique | Anti-free-radical and anti-malonaldehyde extracts of mulberry leaves |
| ES2050074A1 (en) * | 1991-08-23 | 1994-05-01 | Fischer Pharma Ltd | Compositions containing flavonoids |
| FR2830754A1 (en) * | 2001-10-12 | 2003-04-18 | Silab Sa | Production of an agent with a soothing effect on stinging, burning and itching sensations and redness of the skin comprises extracting powdered mulberry leaves with water |
| WO2003043597A1 (en) * | 2001-10-12 | 2003-05-30 | Societe Industrielle Limousine D'application Biologique (Silab) | Cosmetic composition derived from morus method for extracting an active principle and resulting active principle |
| CN104095801A (en) * | 2014-07-08 | 2014-10-15 | 重庆市蚕业科学技术研究院 | Anti-acne mask and preparation method thereof |
| US11400043B2 (en) | 2019-12-10 | 2022-08-02 | Mary Kay Inc. | Cosmetic composition |
| US11684566B2 (en) | 2019-12-10 | 2023-06-27 | Mary Kay Inc. | Cosmetic composition |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| FR2582941B3 (en) | 1987-10-09 |
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