Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
  • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
  • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
  • A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
  • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/99—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from microorganisms other than algae or fungi, e.g. protozoa or bacteria
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08L—COMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
  • C08L3/00—Compositions of starch, amylose or amylopectin or of their derivatives or degradation products
  • C08L3/04—Starch derivatives, e.g. crosslinked derivatives
  • C08L3/06—Esters
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08L—COMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
  • C08L3/00—Compositions of starch, amylose or amylopectin or of their derivatives or degradation products
  • C08L3/04—Starch derivatives, e.g. crosslinked derivatives
  • C08L3/08—Ethers
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08L—COMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
  • C08L5/00—Compositions of polysaccharides or of their derivatives not provided for in groups C08L1/00 or C08L3/00
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/48—Thickener, Thickening system

Definitions

• the present application is in the field of emulsifying cosmetic compositions for preparing an oil-in-water emulsion, to stabilize said emulsion, and to give this emulsion a sensory profile ranging from a fluid milk to a thick cream, and a transformable texture.
• Patent US20140287128 to Nisshion Oillio discloses the use of a thickening modified starch, of an emulsifying modified starch, and of a thickening polysaccharide chosen from vegetable gums, to prepare food seasonings in the form of an oil emulsion. -in-water.
• This patent remains silent as regards any use in cosmetics, and a fortiori as regards any notion of sensory profile in topical use.
• Starches modified with an octenyl succinate function have been widely known for their emulsifying properties since the 1950s when National Starch files its application US2661349. Numerous patent applications have subsequently been filed on improvements of this type of modified starch, in particular on processes combining a modification of the structure of the starch granules and of the anhydroglucose polymers which make up the starch, for example. for example by the action of enzymes, or of hydrothermal treatments such as gelatinization or dextrinification.
• Starches modified for example by an acetyl function such as acetylated starches or starch acetates, are also widely known for their texturizing and thickening property. Gums of microbial or vegetable origin are also known for their texturizing and thickening or gelling property.
• the synergy developed by the particular solid emulsifying and texturing composition selected by the applicant has not never been disclosed, and a fortiori the transformation texture allowed by said solid composition has never been either.
• a first subject of the present application is a solid composition comprising, or even consisting of:
• a second subject of the present application is an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, or even consisting of:
• a third subject of the present application is the use of a solid composition that is the subject of the application for preparing oil-in-water emulsions for cosmetic use, chosen from products for skin care, skin care or. hair coloring, oral care or hygiene, hygiene, makeup, or perfume.
• a fourth subject of the present application is a process for preparing an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a step of emulsifying an oil in an aqueous phase in which the solid composition which is the subject of the application has been previously dispersed or solubilized.
• the solid composition which is the subject of the present application comprises, or consists of:
• solid composition the Applicant means a pulverulent or powdery form, in the form of a set of divided or agglomerated solid particles, or a composition made solid by pressing or compaction of one or more powders.
• the size of said solid composition ranges from about 1 micron to several hundred microns, for example 10 microns to 500 microns, or 20 microns to 300 microns, and generally 40 microns to 200 microns.
• the morphology of the particles can be regular, such as spheres, or irregular and angular, or a combination of different morphologies.
• the water content of the solid form is less than or equal to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solid composition, or less than or equal to 20% by weight, or less than or equal to 15% by weight, or less or equal to 10% by weight, or less than or equal to 5% by weight.
• the fraction of the solid composition soluble in water at 20 ° C may be greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the solid composition, or greater than or equal to 25% by weight, or greater than or equal to 50% by weight, or greater than or equal to 60% by weight, or greater than or equal to 75% by weight.
• the solid composition comprises at least one starchy emulsifier or one of starchy origin.
• said at least one starch emulsifier or emulsifier of starch origin is a starch functionalized with at least one amphiphilic group chosen from a granular starch octenyl succinate, or a pregelatinized starch modified octenyl succinate, or a gelatinized starch modified octenyl succinate, or is an octenyl succinate functionalized dextrin, or an octenyl succinate functionalized maltodextrin, or mixtures thereof.
• the solid composition comprises at least one thickening starch.
• said at least one thickening starch is chosen from stabilized starches, preferably acetylated starches, hydroxypropylated starches, hydroxyethylated starches, or more preferably from pregelatinized and acetylated starches, or pregelatinized and hydroxypropylated starches, most preferably. from pregelatinized and acetylated starches, or mixtures thereof.
• the solid composition comprises at least one gum of microbial origin. According to one embodiment, said at least one gum of microbial origin is chosen from xanthan gum, gellan gum, dextran gum, scleroglucan gum, beta-glucan gum, or their derivatives and mixtures.
• the solid composition comprises at least two vegetable gums.
• said at least two vegetable gums are chosen from galactomannans, glucomannans, galactans, alginates, preferably from guar gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, cassia gum, Fenugreek gum, konjac gum, arabic gum, tragacanth, karaya gum, and most preferably are guar gum and tara gum.
• the solid composition comprises, or consists of, in percentages by weight relative to the total weight of said solid composition:
• said at least two vegetable gums are guar gum and tara gum.
• the mass proportions of the two vegetable gums, relative to the total weight of the solid composition are:
• the solid composition comprises, or consists of, in percentages by weight relative to the total weight of said solid composition: - from 20% to 60% in at least one starchy emulsifier or of starchy origin,
• the solid composition comprises, or consists of, in percentages by weight relative to the total weight of said solid composition:
• the solid composition comprises, or consists of, in percentages by weight relative to the total weight of said solid composition:
• the solid composition comprises, or consists of, in percentages by weight relative to the total weight of said solid composition:
• the thickening starches useful in the invention can come from any botanical origin, in particular from wheat, corn, potato, legumes like peas, rice, broad beans, faba beans. They can be granular as in their natural state, or pregelatinized. Preferably, they are chosen from pregelatinized starches, hydrolyzed starches, starches treated enzymatically, modified starches and modified dextrins.
• the thickening starches are modified starches chosen from stabilized starches, preferably from acetylated starches, hydroxypropylated starches, hydroxyethylated starches; or from pregelatinized and stabilized starches, preferably from pregelatinized and acetylated starches, pregelatinized and hydroxypropylated starches, most preferably from pregelatinized and acetylated starches, or mixtures thereof.
• pregelatinized starch means a starch made “water-soluble”, that is to say a starch having at 20 ° C and with mechanical stirring for 24 hours a soluble fraction in water.
• demineralized water at least equal to 5% by weight.
• This soluble fraction is preferably greater than 20% by weight, or more preferably greater than 50% by weight, or most preferably greater than or equal to 70%.
• the water-soluble starch can be completely soluble in demineralized water, the soluble fraction then being greater than 90%, and being able to be close to 100%.
• the water-soluble starch preferably has a low water content, generally less than 10%, in particular less than 5% by weight.
• Pregelatinized starches are generally prepared by thermal, chemical or mechanical techniques capable of causing swelling of the starch granules so that they become soluble in cold water, in particular thanks to the release of the chains constituent starches of said granules.
• the preferred techniques are steam cooking, jet cooker cooking, cooking on a drum, cooking in mixer and / or extruder systems then drying, for example in an oven, by hot air on a fluidized bed, cooking on a rotary drum, atomization, extrusion or lyophilization.
• Such starches generally have a solubility in demineralized water at 20 ° C greater than 5% and more generally between 10 and 100% and a level of starch crystallinity less than 15%, generally less than 5% and most often less than 1%, or even zero.
• PREGEFLO® the products manufactured and marketed by the Applicant under the brand name PREGEFLO®.
• Pregelatinized starch can also consist of a starch which has partially retained its original granular form, obtained by spray cooking, generally known under the name GCWS (Granular Cold Water Soluble) starch.
• GCWS Granular Cold Water Soluble
• hydrolyzed starch means a starch which has undergone enzymatic hydrolysis or partial chemical hydrolysis, by acid, basic or by oxidation, which has led to a reduction in the molecular weight of the starch.
• weakly hydrolyzed starches are fluidized starches, and highly hydrolyzed starches are maltodextrins.
• dextrin a starch in the form of granules having undergone a hydro-thermal modification of their granular structure or of their intermolecular or intramolecular arrangement, by thermal, physical or chemical action, or a combination of these actions.
• dextrins in particular the most transformed and commonly called yellow dextrins, will be, in the context of the present invention, preferred because of their advantageous solubility and stability.
• modified starch denotes a starch which has undergone a chemical treatment chosen from crosslinking, oxidation, stabilization, functionalization, or a combination of at least two of these modifications.
• stabilized starch is understood to mean starches which have undergone one or more of the chemical treatments known to those skilled in the art aimed at slowing down or slowing down the retrogradation of the starch. Stabilization is obtained by substitution of the hydroxyl functions of the starch, by esterification or etherification. It can also be obtained by oxidation. These treatments stabilization are in particular hydroxypropylation, hydroxyethylation, acetylation, phosphatation, oxidation, cationization, or carboxymethylation. According to the present invention, an acetylated, or hydroxypropylated, or hydroxyethylated, preferentially acetylated starch is preferred.
• Such a stabilized starch may have a soluble fraction as defined above greater than 5%, preferably greater than 10%, better still greater than 50%.
• a stabilized starch thus advantageously has the faculties of thickening, until gelling, of water by simple dispersion in cold water and of giving thickened solutions, or gels, which are very stable over time, that is, that is to say without progress towards retrogradation during storage for several weeks at room temperature.
• Stabilization can be obtained in particular by acetylation in aqueous phase of acetic anhydride, mixed anhydrides, hydroxypropylation in milk phase or in glue phase, by phosphating. These stabilized starches can exhibit a degree of substitution of between 0.01 and 3, and better still of between 0.05 and 1.
• the reagents for modifying or functionalizing the starch are of renewable origin.
• stabilization When stabilization is obtained by esterification, it can be done by using an organic acid anhydride other than acetic anhydride, or an organic acid other than acetic acid, or an anhydride mixed, or an organic acid chloride or any mixture of these products.
• organic acid anhydride other than acetic anhydride or an organic acid other than acetic acid, or an anhydride mixed, or an organic acid chloride or any mixture of these products.
• These products can be chosen, for example, from acids having from 1 to 24 carbons, saturated or unsaturated, and more specifically from formic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, acid.
• hexanoic acid hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, pelargonic acid, octanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, the anhydrides of these acids, the mixed anhydrides of these acids, and any mixtures of these products.
• the stabilized starch can also be a stabilized and hydrolyzed starch.
• the stabilized starch is an acetylated starch, or a hydroxypropylated starch, or a hydroxyethylated starch, or a starch which has undergone at least two of the chemical substitutions chosen from acetylation, hydroxypropylation, hydroxyethylation.
• the stabilized starch is an acetylated starch.
• the stability starch is non-crosslinked.
• the stabilized starch is an acetylated waxy corn starch, or a pregelatinized and acetylated waxy corn starch.
• pregelatinized and acetylated waxy starches are the “Pregeflo® CH” marketed by Roquette, such as Pregeflo® CH10, CH20, CH30 or CH40.
• Starchy emulsifier or of starchy origin Starchy emulsifier or of starchy origin:
• starch emulsifier is meant a starch having emulsifying properties, in particular having the ability to emulsify an oil in water.
• a starch emulsifier useful in the invention is thus a starch modified by a hydrophobic functionalization, or an amphiphilic functionalization, or an ionic functionalization, or a combination of these functionalizations.
• the starch undergoing at least one of said functionalizations can be a native starch, a pregelatinized starch, a hydrolyzed starch, a modified starch.
• the starch undergoing at least one of said functionalizations is a native starch. According to another embodiment, the starch undergoing at least one of said functionalizations is a pregelatinized starch. According to another embodiment, the starch undergoing at least one of said functionalizations is a hydrolyzed starch.
• emulsifier of starchy origin is meant a dextrin, or a hydrolyzed starch, or a maltodextrin, having the capacity to emulsify an oil in water.
• An emulsifier of starchy origin is a dextrin, or a hydrolyzed starch, or a maltodextrin, which has undergone a hydrophobic functionalization, or an amphiphilic functionalization, or an ionic functionalization, or a combination of these functionalizations.
• hydrophobic and / or amphiphilic functionalization denotes a chemical reaction between, on the one hand a hydrophobic and / or amphiphilic reagent, and on the other hand, a part, or all, of the hydroxyl groups of the starch or starchy material. This reaction is usually a "substitution” or “grafting” by creating covalent bonds of ester, ether or amide type.
• the starchy emulsifier or the emulsifier of starchy origin, is obtained by substitution of the hydroxyl groups by reaction with an acid chloride, or with an alcohol ester. and acid anhydride.
• the acid chloride can be a chloride of one or more of the following acids, having from 2 to 24 carbons, preferably 4 to 24 carbons, saturated or unsaturated, and more preferably from propionic acid, acid butyric acid, valeric acid, hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, pelargonic acid, octanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, the anhydrides of these acids, the mixed anhydrides of these acids, and any mixtures of these products.
• acids having from 2 to 24 carbons, preferably 4 to 24 carbons, saturated or unsaturated, and more preferably from propionic acid, acid butyric acid, valeric acid, hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, pelargonic acid, octanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic
• the alcohol can be a linear, branched, or cyclic alcohol, consisting of a carbon skeleton having at least 2 carbon atoms.
• the alcohol can have at least one unsaturation, that is, at least one carbon-carbon double bond.
• the alcohol can be a linear, branched, or cyclic fatty alcohol consisting of a carbon skeleton of 8 to 36 carbon atoms.
• the fatty alcohol can have at least one unsaturation. Examples of unsaturated fatty alcohols are octanol, nonanol, decanol, undecanol, dodecanol, tetradecanol, hexadecanol, octadecanol, docosanol, policosanol.
• the acid anhydride can be an anhydride of any of the polycarboxylic acids described below.
• the polycarboxylic acid can be a linear, branched or cyclic polycarboxylic acid, consisting of a carbon skeleton having at least 2 carbon atoms.
• the polycarboxylic acid may contain at least one unsaturation, that is to say at least one carbon-carbon double bond, such as, for example, maleic acid, glutaconic acid or fumaric acid.
• the polycarboxylic acid can also contain at least one alcohol group attached to the carbon chain.
• the polycarboxylic acid can have at least two acid groups.
• the polycarboxylic acids are the acids linear dicarboxylics carrying the acid groups at the ends of the carbon chain.
• linear dicarboxylic acids examples include ethanedioic acid (or oxalic acid), propanedioic acid, butanedioic acid (or succinic acid), dihydroxybutanedioic acid (or tartaric acid), 2-hydroxybutanedioic acid ( or malic acid), pentanedioic acid (or glutaric acid) hexanedioic acid (or adipic acid), tetrahydroxyhexanedioic acid (or saccharic acid), gluconic acid, heptanedioic acid (or pimelic acid), l octanedioic acid, nonanedioic acid, decanedioic acid (or sebacic acid).
• ethanedioic acid or oxalic acid
• propanedioic acid butanedioic acid (or succinic acid
• dihydroxybutanedioic acid or tartaric
• the acid anhydride is a linear dicarboxylic acid anhydride. In one embodiment, the acid anhydride is succinic anhydride.
• the ester of alcohol and of acid anhydride is an ester of fatty alcohol and of succinic acid anhydride, such as octenylsuccinic anhydride, or dodecylsuccinic anhydride.
• the ester of alcohol and of acid anhydride is an ester of a saturated fatty alcohol of C3-C15, preferably of C4-C12, and most preferably of C5-C10, and of a C2-C10, preferably C3-C9, and most preferably C4-C8 acid anhydride.
• the fatty alcohol comprises at least one unsaturation, that is to say at least one carbon-carbon double bond, preferably at least two unsaturations, and most preferably at least three unsaturations.
• the level of functionalization can result in solubility of the functionalized starch. If the solubility is insufficient, a pregelatinization treatment can be applied to the functionalized starch to make it sufficiently soluble.
• the emulsifying starch is a waxy starch functionalized with an alkenyl succinate group, in particular octenyl succinate or dodecyl succinate.
• alkenyl succinate group in particular octenyl succinate or dodecyl succinate.
• starches carrying octenyl succinate functions are Cleargum® CO 01 and CO 03 marketed by Roquette.
• the emulsifier of starch origin is a dextrin which has undergone octenyl succinate functionalization, such as, for example, Cleargum® CO A1 sold by Roquette.
• the emulsifying starch, or the emulsifier of starchy origin is obtained by grafting purely hydrophobic groups by radical reaction, for example as set out in application EP3180372 of the plaintiff.
• the term "gum of microbial origin” denotes the gums resulting from the fermentation of bacteria, such as xanthans, gellans, dextrans and scleroglucans, or from fermentation of yeasts such as beta-glucans, or from the biological activity of fungi, in particular of molds such as 1-3-beta-glucans.
• the gum of microbial origin can be an endopolysaccharide or an exopolysaccharide (EPS), that is to say a polysaccharide present in certain microorganisms at their cell walls and which can be released into a culture medium.
• EPS exopolysaccharide
• Xanthan gum is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Xanthan gums generally have a molecular weight of between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000 Da.
• the product Xanthan Gum FNCS-PC from the company: Jungbunzlauer International AG
• the product Keltrol® CG-T from the company CP Kelco
• the product Cosphaderm® X 17 from the company Cosphatec
• the product Kahlgum 6673 FEE - Xanthan Gum from the company KahIWax
• the products Rhodicare® S and Rhodicare® XC from the company Solvay and the product VANZAN® NF-C from the company Vanderbilt Minerais
• the product NOVAXAN TM from the company ADM
• the Kelzan® and Keltrol® products from CP-Kelco.
• Gellan gum is an anionic linear heteropolyoside based on oligoside units composed of 4 oses (tetra-oside). D-glucose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid in 2: 1: 1 proportions are present in gellan gum as monomeric elements. It is for example sold under the name KELCOGEL CG LA by the company CP KELCO. Dextran gum is a branched polymer of dextrose (glucose) of very high molecular mass. Dextrans are found in sticky materials produced by the growth of certain bacteria, such as Leuconostoc mesenteroides, on saccharose media. They consist of D-glucosyl units linked mainly by alpha (1, 6) bonds. A range of dextran is for example sold by the company Pharmacosmos.
• Scleroglucan gum is a branched nonionic homopolysaccharide, consisting of beta-D glucan units.
• the molecules consist of a main linear chain formed of D-glucose units linked by beta (1,3) bonds and one in three of which is linked to a lateral D-glucose unit by a beta (1,6) bond.
• An example of scleroglucan gum is the product AMIGEL sold by the company ALBAN MULLER.
• Beta-glucan gum is a polysaccharide consisting entirely of D-glucose linked by beta bonds.
• the bonds can be very diverse and of beta (1, 3), beta (1, 4) or beta (1, 6) type.
• beta-glucans form a diverse group of molecules, present in particular in the cell walls of baker's yeast, and certain fungi and bacteria.
• the product Beta Glucan AC-25 from the company Kraeber & Co GmbH is known.
• Arabinogalactan gum is a polysaccharide present in varying amounts in many fungi and bacteria.
• the gum of microbial origin is a xanthan gum or a sceroglucan gum, preferably a xanthan gum.
• the term "vegetable gums” denotes the gums obtained from seeds, tubers or exudates, from plants, and the gums extracted from algae. This term excludes, in the present invention, starches and their derivatives.
• the gums obtained from seeds there are galactomannans, such as guar gum, locust bean gum, tara gum, cassia gum.
• the gums obtained from tubers we find glucomannans such as konjac gum.
• the gums obtained from plant exudates we find gum arabic, gum tragacanth, karaya gum.
• the gums extracted from seaweed are alginates, galactans such as agar and carrageenans.
• the gums useful for the invention are gelling gums, alone or in combination with one another.
• Galactomannans are nonionic polysaccharides extracted from the albumen of legume seeds for which they constitute the reserve carbohydrate.
• Galactomannans are macromolecules consisting of a main chain of D-mannopyranose units linked in beta (1,4), carrying side branches consisting of a single D-galactopyranose unit linked in alpha (1,6) to the chain main.
• the different galactomannans are distinguished on the one hand by the proportion of alpha-D galactopyranose units present in the polymer, and on the other hand by significant differences in terms of the distribution of galactose units along the mannose chain.
• the mannose / galactose (M / G) ratio is of the order of 2 for guar gum, 3 for tara gum, 4 for locust bean gum, and 5 for cassia gum.
• Guar gum is characterized by a mannose: galactose ratio of the order of 2: 1.
• the galactose group is regularly distributed along the mannose chain.
• Unmodified nonionic guar gums are for example the products sold under the name Vidogum GH, Vidogum G and Vidocrem by the company Unipektin and under the name Jaguar by the company Rhodia, under the name Meypro® Guar by the company Danisco, and under the name Supercol® guar gum by the company Aqualon.
• Locust bean gum is extracted from the seeds of the carob tree, Ceratonia siliqua. It is characterized by a mannose: galactose ratio of the order of 4: 1.
• the unmodified locust bean gum which can be used in this invention is sold for example under the name “Vidogum L” by the company Unipektin, under the name Grinsted® LBG by the company Danisco.
• Tara gum is obtained from the albumen of the seeds of a South American tree, Caesalpinia spinosa. It is also called locust bean gum from Peru. It is composed of a chain of mannose monomers ((1,4) beta-D-mannopyranose) branched from bridges 1-6 of galactose. It is more branched than locust bean gum and less than guar gum because the ratio between mannose and galactose is 3 to 1, instead of 4 to 1 for locust bean gum and 2 to 1 for gum. guar.
• An example of tara gum is that sold for example under the name “Vidogum SP” by the company Unipektin.
• Cassia gum or cassia gum is a polysaccharide of galactomannan type such as guar gum and tara gum but obtained from the seeds of plants of the genus Cassia and Senna. It consists of a linear chain of mannose monomers linked together by an osidic bond of the beta (1,4) type to which all the surrounding five mannose units are attached, by an osidic bond of the alpha (1,6) type. , a unit of galactose which gives a ratio between mannose and galactose of 5 to 1.
• Cosmetic grades are for example available from the company Altrafine Gums under the name Semi-refined Cassia Gum.
• Glucomannans are polysaccharides of high molecular weight (between 500,000 and 2,000,000 Da), composed of units of D-mannose and D-glucose with a branching every 50 or 60 units approximately. It is found in wood but it is also the main constituent of Konjac gum.
• Konjac Amorphophallus konjac
• the products which can be used according to the invention are for example sold under the names Propol® and Rheolex® by the company Shimizu.
• Gum arabic is a highly branched acidic polysaccharide which is in the form of mixtures of potassium, magnesium and calcium salts.
• the monomeric elements of free acid (arabic acid) are D-galactose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid.
• Gum tragacanth also called tragacanth or dragon gum
• tragacanth is an exudate obtained from the dried mucilaginous sap of about twenty species of plants of the genus Astragalus. This eraser is a mixture complex of several polysaccharides. The two main fractions are tragacanthin (which is a neutral arabinogalactan) representing 60% to 70% by weight, and bassorin, also called "tragacanthic acid” (which is an acid glycanogalacturonan) representing 30% to 40% by weight. .
• Arabinogalactan gum most often comes from American larch (Larix occidentalis).
• Karaya gum (or Sterculia gum) is a vegetable gum obtained from the exudate of the branches of Sterculia, Karaya gum is a polysaccharide composed of galactose, rhamnose and galacturonic acid mainly and a small amount glucuronic acid.
• alginates is understood to mean alginic acid, derivatives of alginic acid and salts of alginic acid (alginates) or of said derivatives.
• Alginic acid a natural substance derived from brown algae or certain bacteria, is a polyuronic acid composed of 2 uronic acids linked by (1,4) glycosidic bonds: Beta-D-manuronic acid and Alpha- acid. L-glucuronic.
• Use is preferably made of alginate-based compounds having a weight average molecular mass ranging from 10,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 15,000 to 500,000, and better still from 20,000 to 250,000.
• alginate-based compounds suitable for the invention can be represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Protanal TM by the company FMC Biopolymer, under the name GRINDSTED® Alginate by the company Danisco, under the name name KEVIICA ALGIN by the company KEVIICA, and under the names Manucol ® and Manugel ® by the company ISP.
• Carrageenan-type galactans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the families of Gigartinacae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units linked alternately by alpha- (1,3) and beta (1,4) bonds. Those are Highly sulphated polysaccharides (20-50%) and alpha-D-galactopyranosyl residues can be in the 3,6-anhydro form.
• carrageenans which have an ester-sulfate group, iota-carrageenans which have two ester groups -sulfate and lambda-carrageenans which have three ester-sulfate groups.
• Carrageenans consist essentially of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and / or calcium salts and sulfate esters of polysaccharides.
• Carrageenans are in particular marketed by the company Seppic under the name Solagum®, by the company Gelymar under the name of Carragel®, Carralact®, and Carrasol®, and by the company CP-Kelco under the name GENULACTA®, GENUGEL® and GENUVISCO.
• Agar-type galactans are galactose polysaccharides contained in the cell wall of some of these species of red algae (rhodophyceae). They are formed from a polymer group whose basic backbone is a beta (1,3) D-galactopyranose and alpha (1,4) L 3-6 anhydrogalactose chain, these units repeating regularly and alternately. The differences within the agar family are due to the presence or absence of methylated or carboxyethylated solvated groups. These hybrid structures are generally present in varying percentages, depending on the species of algae and the harvest season.
• Agar-agar is a mixture of polysaccharides (agarose and agaropectin) of high molecular mass, between 40,000 and 300,000 Da. It is obtained by making algae extraction juices, generally by autoclaving, and by treating these juices which include about 2% agar, in order to extract the latter.
• Agar is for example produced by the B&V Agar Producers group, under the name Gold Agar, Agarite and Grand Agar by the company Hispanagar, and under the names Agar-Agar, QSA (Quick Soluble Agar), and Puragar by the company Setexam.
• Other vegetable gums In addition to the vegetable gums presented above, other vegetable gums can be used: psyllium gum, pectins, mannans, galactoglucomannans, xylans, glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid.
• Pectins are substances present in large quantities in the primary walls of dicotyledons, and in particular in the plant walls of many fruits and vegetables, mainly citrus fruits and apples. These are rhamnogalacturonic-type polysaccharides characterized by an alpha-D-galacturonic acid backbone and small amounts of alpha-L-rhamnose more or less branched mainly by galactose and arabinose.
• pectic acids with a degree of methylation less than 5% (MD ⁇ 5), weakly methylated pectins with a degree of methylation less than 50% (MD ⁇ 50 or highly methylated pectins with a degree of methylation is greater than 50% (MD> 50)
• MD ⁇ 5 may be pectic acids with a degree of methylation less than 5%
• MD ⁇ 50 may be weakly methylated pectins with a degree of methylation less than 50%
• MD> 50 By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the trademark GENU pHresh TM DF Pectin by the company CP Kelco.
• Xyloglucan is a compound of hemicelluloses which has a backbone of glucose (GIc) residues onto which xylose (Xyl), galactose (Gai) and fucose (Fuc) residues are grafted; they are found in many primary walls of plants.
• GIc glucose
• Xyl xylose
• Gai galactose
• Fuc fucose
• Xylan is a main component of hemicelluloses, and the second most abundant natural polysaccharide after xyloglucan.
• Xylans are polymers of xyloses which include glucuronoxylans (GX) which have a backbone of xylose residues onto which are grafted residues of glucuronic acid (GIcA) or its O-methylated derivative, arabinoxylans (AX) which have a backbone of residues xylose onto which arabinose residues are grafted, glucuronoarabinoxylans (GAX) which have a backbone of xylose residues onto which arabinose and glucuronic acid residues are grafted; arabinoxylans and glucuronoarabinoxylans are found in the primary walls of monocots and finally unsubstituted homoxylans.
• GX glucuronoxylans
• GcA glucuronic acid
• AX arabinoxylans
• Mannan is a polysaccharide composed mainly of mannose monomers and designates a set of polysaccharides belonging to the family of hemicelluloses which make up the wall of plant cells. He These are monosaccharides linked by beta-1,4 bonds. They can be linear or branched, forming chains with a length (or degree of polymerization) of between 100 and 3000 units.
• Glycosaminoglycans are carbohydrate macromolecules forming important components of the extracellular matrices of connective tissues of plant or marine origin. These are long linear chains (unbranched polymers) sulfated (except hyaluronic acid), composed of the repetition of disaccharides: a basic disaccharide always containing a hexosamine (glucosamine (GIcN) or galactosamine (GaIN)) and a other ose (glucuronic acid (GIcA), iduronic acid (IdoA), galactose (Gai)).
• GAGs or glycoaminoglycans are carbohydrate macromolecules forming important components of the extracellular matrices of connective tissues of plant or marine origin. These are long linear chains (unbranched polymers) sulfated (except hyaluronic acid), composed of the repetition of disaccharides: a basic disaccharide always containing a hexos
• Glucosamine is either N-sulfated (GIcNS) or N-acetylated (GIcNac).
• GcNac N-acetylated
• GalNac N-acetylated
• hyaluronic acid, its derivatives and its salts mention may be made of hyaluronic acid, its derivatives and its salts.
• This type of macromolecules are for example sold under the names of MDI Complex® by the company Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, D-Factor by the company Res Pharma Industriale, Hydrocan by the company Tri-K Industries, Inc, Hyaluronic acid-BT from the company DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd.
• Emulsion for cosmetic use :
• the oil-in-water type emulsion that is the subject of the present application comprises:
• the oil-in-water emulsion comprises, or consists of:
• At least one thickening starch chosen from starches functionalized by crosslinking and stabilized, pregelatinized starches functionalized by crosslinking and stabilized, preferably from crosslinked and acetylated starches, most preferably from pregelatinized crosslinked and acetylated starches, - at least one gum of microbial origin,
• At least two vegetable gums including at least guar gum and tara gum
• the oil-in-water emulsion comprises, or consists of:
• At least one thickening starch chosen from starches functionalized by crosslinking and stabilized, pregelatinized starches functionalized by crosslinking and stabilized, preferably from crosslinked and acetylated starches, most preferably from pregelatinized crosslinked and acetylated starches,
• the oil-in-water emulsion comprises, or consists of:
• At least one thickening starch chosen from non-crosslinked stabilized starches, non-crosslinked stabilized functionalized pregelatinized starches, preferably from non-crosslinked acetylated starches, most preferably from uncrosslinked acetylated pregelatinized starches,
• the oil-in-water emulsion comprises, or consists of:
• At least one thickening starch chosen from non-crosslinked stabilized starches, non-crosslinked stabilized functionalized pregelatinized starches, preferably from non-crosslinked acetylated starches, most preferably from uncrosslinked acetylated pregelatinized starches,
• the oil-in-water emulsion comprises, or comprises as one and only emulsifier, at least one starch emulsifier or of starch origin chosen from a granular starch octenyl succinate, or an octenyl dextrin. succinate, or an octenyl succinate modified gelatinized starch, or an octenyl succinate modified maltodextrin, or a mixture thereof.
• the starch emulsifier is an octenyl succinate starch.
• the proportion by mass of said at least one starchy emulsifier or of starchy origin ranges from 0.20% to 3.60%, relative to the total weight of said oil-in-water emulsion.
• the oil-in-water emulsion comprises, or comprises as one and only thickener, at least one thickening starch chosen from stabilized starches, preferably acetylated starches, hydroxypropylated starches, starches. hydroxyethylated, or more preferably from pregelatinized and acetylated starches, or pregelatinized and hydroxypropylated starches, most preferably from pregelatinized and acetylated starches, or mixtures thereof.
• the thickening starch can in particular be a crosslinked and acetylated pregelatinized starch, or an uncrosslinked acetylated pregelatinized starch.
• the proportion by mass of said at least one thickening starch ranges from 0.20 to 3.60%, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
• the oil-in-water emulsion comprises at least one gum of microbial origin chosen from xanthan gum, gellan gum, dextran gum, scleroglucan gum, gum. of beta-glucan, or their derivatives and mixtures.
• the mass proportion of said gum of microbial origin ranges from 0.005% to 0.600%, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
• the oil-in-water emulsion comprises at least two vegetable gums are chosen from galactomannans, glucomannans, galactans, alginates, preferably from guar gum, tara gum , locust bean gum, cassia gum, Fenugreek gum, konjac gum, arabic gum, tragacanth, karaya gum, and most preferably are guar gum and tara gum.
• the mass proportion of said at least two vegetable gum ranges from 0.06% to 2.700%, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
• said at least two vegetable gums are guar gum and tara gum, which are therefore the only vegetable gums present in the solid composition.
• the proportion by weight of the guar gum ranges from 0.05% to 1.800%, and the proportion by weight of the tara gum ranges from 0.010% to 0.900%, relative to the total weight of the emulsion. .
• the oil-in-water emulsion which is the subject of the present application comprises:
• the oil-in-water emulsion which is the subject of the present application comprises:
• the oil-in-water emulsion which is the subject of the present application comprises:
• the oil-in-water emulsion comprises an oil chosen from non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils, non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils, volatile oils, waxes and butters.
• the oil-in-water emulsion comprises an oil chosen from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, vegetable oils, preferably from ester oils and vegetable oils.
• the mass proportion of oil in said emulsion ranges from 0.5% to 75%, or from 1% to 70%, or from 4% to 65%, or from 5% to 60%. , or from 10% to 30%, by weight relative to the total weight of said emulsion.
• the oil-in-water emulsion comprises less than 1% of at least one other emulsifier, preferably less than 1% of another surfactant, in particular of an ethoxylated surfactant, or of a weakly or non-biodegradable surfactant, preferably less than 0.5%, or less than 0.01%, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
• the oil-in-water emulsion comprises:
• At least cosmetic additive chosen from polyols, organic acids, cationic or anionic polymers, fragrances, foaming surfactants, exfoliating agents, film-forming agents, preservatives, pigments, mineral fillers.
• moisturizers chosen from moisturizers, anti-aging agents, UV filters, active ingredients extracted from plants.
• the oil-in-water emulsion does not comprise monosaccharide, preferably no fructose. According to one embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsion does not include glucose-fructose syrup, also called high fructose corn syrup.
• the oil-in-water emulsion consists of: - at least one starchy emulsifier or one of starchy origin,
• At least cosmetic additive chosen from polyols, organic acids, cationic or anionic polymers, fragrances, foaming surfactants, exfoliating agents, film-forming agents, preservatives, pigments, mineral fillers.
• moisturizers chosen from moisturizers, anti-aging agents, UV filters, active ingredients extracted from plants.
• the oil-in-water emulsion comprises an ingredient for cosmetic use chosen from cationic surfactants, cationic polymers and pigments.
• oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (1,013,105 Pa).
• the oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil.
• the non-volatile oil is chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, from non-volatile hydrocarbon, polar or non-volatile oils, as well as their mixtures; and preferably from polar non-volatile oils, in particular chosen from C10-C26 alcohols, ester oils, vegetable oils, alone or as mixtures.
• hydrocarbon-based oil is understood to mean an oil formed essentially, or even consisting, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and not containing any carbon atom. silicon or fluorine.
• the hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from a silicone oil and from a fluorinated oil.
• silicone oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si — O group.
• the oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil.
• This hydrocarbon oil can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.
• the hydrocarbon oil is free from heteroatoms such as nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus.
• the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises at least one oxygen atom.
• this non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil comprises at least one alcohol function (it is then an “alcohol oil”) or at least one ester function (it is then an “ester oil”).
• ester oils which can be used in the oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention can in particular be hydroxylated.
• the oil-in-water emulsion comprises one or more non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular chosen from:
• C10-C26 alcohols are saturated or not, branched or not, and comprise from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms.
• fatty alcohols which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols of synthetic or even natural origin, such as for example alcohols originating from plant materials (copra, palm kernel, palm. ...) or animal (tallow ).
• other long-chain alcohols can also be used, such as, for example, ether alcohols or even so-called Guerbet alcohols.
• alcohols of natural origin such as, for example, coconut (C12 to C16) or tallow (C16 to C18) or compounds of the diol or cholesterol type.
• fatty alcohols which can be used preferably, mention may in particular be made of lauryl, isostearyl, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol. , octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.
• the alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol.
• esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids such as diesters of glycol and monoacids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate, or triesters of glycol and monoacids such as triacetin.
• ester oils in particular having between 17 and 70 carbon atoms: as examples, mention may be made of mono-, di- or tri-esters. Ester oils may or may not be hydroxylated.
• the non-volatile ester oil can be chosen, for example, from:
• (4.1) monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters, of formula R1-COO-R2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 atoms of carbon, saturated or not, and R2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 17, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl erucate , isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyl dodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates
• esters of formula R1-COO-R2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, R1 and R2 being 10 such that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 17. Even more particularly, the ester comprises between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total.
• R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms
• R1 and R2 being 10 such that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 17.
• the ester comprises between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total.
• isononyl isononanoate isopropyl palmitate, oleyl erucate and / or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate.
• fatty acid monoesters in particular of 18 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular of oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, and diols, such as propylene glycol monostearate.
• diesters in particular comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. It is in particular possible to use diesters of dicarboxylic acid and of monoalcohols, such as preferably diisostearyl malate; or diesters of monocarboxylic acid and of dialcohols, such as the 1,3-propanediyl ester of octanoic acid (or propanediol dicaprylate), sold under the name DUB ZENOAT by the company Stéarinerie Dubois; or diesters of glycol and of mono-carboxylic acids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (in particular such as the compound sold under the trade reference DERMOL DGDIS by the company Alzo);
• (4.4) monoesters and hydroxylated diesters preferably having a total carbon number ranging from 18 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, malate of diisostearyl, glycerin stearate;
• triesters in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as triesters of tricarboxylic acid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or triesters of glycol and of mono carboxylic acids such as polyglycerol-2 tri isostearate;
• (4.6) tetraesters in particular having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as tetraesters of penthaerythritol or of polyglycerol and of a mono-carboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, tetraisostearate pentaerythrityl, pentaerythrityl tetreasononanoate, 2-tri-decyl glyceryl tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or alternatively pentaerythrityl-2-tetradecyl tetradecanoate;
• polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and / or trimer unsaturated and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0853634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol.
• Viscoplast 14436H INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer
• esters and polyesters of dimer diol and of mono- or dicarboxylic acid such as esters of dimer diol and of fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and of dicarboxylic acid dimer, in particular obtainable from of a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid in particular of C8 to C34, in particular of C12 to C22, in particular of C16 to C20, and more particularly of C18, such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and dilinoleic diol dimers, for example such as those sold by the company NIPPON FINE CFIEMICAL under the trade names LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®;
• vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as triglycerides of fatty acids (liquid at room temperature), in particular of fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, in particular, one may cite saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride and their mixtures, for example such as that sold under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate, C18-36 acid triglycerides such as than those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois), jojoba oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, as well as unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil; and other vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as Japanese Camellia seed oil, avocado oil, cam
• oils consisting of a mixture of C8-C10 fatty acid monoesters and C12-C18 fatty alcohols, such as MIGLYOL Coco 810 from IOI Oleo GmbH (INCI name: coco -Capyrlate / Caprate).
• the oil-in-water emulsion does not include vegetable oil.
• the oil-in-water emulsion does not include canola oil.
• the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil (s) are chosen from C10-C26 monoalcohols, ester oils, and in particular monoesters comprising at least 17 carbon atoms in total, diesters, hydroxylated or not. , comprising at least 18 carbon atoms in total, triesters, in particular having at least 35 carbon atoms, tetraesters, in particular having at least 35 carbon atoms, vegetable hydrocarbon oils, as well as mixtures thereof.
• non-volatile apolar oils mention may be made very particularly of paraffin oil, squalane, pentadecane, nonadecane eicosane, isoeicosane, polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, hydrogenated polyisobutenes. or not, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, as well as their mixtures.
• An example of a mixture of non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils is the product Emogreen L15 sold by Seppic, which is a mixture of C15-C19 alkanes.
• non-volatile silicone oils mention may be made, for example, of non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes. Mention may also be made of phenylated silicone oils, such as, for example, diphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, or tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, as well as their mixtures.
• the non-volatile silicone oil does not comprise a C2-C3 oxyalkylenated group (oxyethylenated, oxypropylenated), nor a glycerolated group (s).
• the non-volatile oil is chosen from polar non-volatile oils, in particular chosen from C10-C26 alcohols, ester oils, vegetable oils, alone or in mixtures.
• the oil-in-water emulsion comprises at least one C10-C26, preferably C14-C24, alcohol.
• the mass percentage of non-volatile oils represents more particularly from 4 to 65% by weight, preferably from 5% to 60%, more preferably from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the oil-in-water emulsion .
• the oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one volatile oil.
• volatile oil denotes oils in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa) , in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.
• the volatile oils can be hydrocarbon-based or silicone-based.
• Nonpolar volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms such as branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, l. 'isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permyls.
• the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, in particular from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and is in particular isohexadecane.
• n-dodecane C12
• n-tetradecane C14
• the undecane-tridecane mixture such as Cetiol Ultimate from BASF
• volatile silicone oils mention may be made of linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethyl-pentasiloxane.
• volatile cyclic silicone oils mention may be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcylotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta-siloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
• the content of volatile oil (s) is between 0.5 and 10% by weight, or between 1 and 5% by weight, by relative to the weight of the oil-in-water emulsion.
• the oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention can optionally comprise at least one silicone wax, or a hydrocarbon wax, polar or nonpolar.
• the wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (25 ° C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point in particular greater than or equal to 30 ° C, more particularly above 45 ° C.
• the melting point is less than or equal to 90 ° C, more particularly less than or equal to 80 ° C, and preferably less than or equal to 70 ° C.
• the melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC Q100” by the company TA Instruments with the software “TA Universal Analysis ”.
• DSC differential scanning calorimeter
• the measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of solid fatty substance of approximately 5 mg is placed in a crucible "hermetic aluminum capsule".
• the sample is subjected to a first rise in temperature ranging from 20 ° C to 120 ° C, at the heating rate of 2 ° C / minute up to 80 ° C, then left at 100 ° C isotherm for 20 minutes , then is cooled from 120 ° C to 0 ° C at a cooling rate of 2 ° C / minute, and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from 0 ° C to 20 ° C at a heating rate of 2 ° C / minute.
• the value of the melting temperature of the solid fatty substance is the value of the top of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
• the polar wax is chosen from ester hydrocarbon waxes, alcohol hydrocarbon waxes, silicone waxes, as well as mixtures thereof.
• hydrocarbon wax is understood to mean a wax formed essentially, or even consisting, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or carbon atom. fluorine. It can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.
• ester wax is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function.
• the ester waxes can also be hydroxylated.
• alcohol wax is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
• the additional alcohol wax does not in particular include an ester function.
• silicone wax means a wax comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si — O groups.
• ester wax The following can in particular be used as ester wax:
• ester wax a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate.
• Such waxes are sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®”, “Kester Wax K 80 P®”, or “KESTER WAX K82H” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN. It is also possible to use mixtures of C14-C18 carboxylic acid esters and alcohols, such as the products “Cetyl Ester Wax 814” from the company KOSTER KEUNEN, “SP Crodamol MS MBAL”, “Crodamol MS PA” from the company. CRODA company, "Miraceti” from LASERSON company. It is also possible to use a glycol and butylene glycol montanate (octacosanoate) such as LICOWAX KPS FLAKES wax (INCI name: glycol montanate) marketed by the company Clariant.
• octacosanoate such as LICOWAX KPS FLAKES wax (INCI name: glyco
• the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.
• waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having in particular fatty, linear or branched, C8-C32 chains for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the SOPHIM company.
• Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.
• waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol mention may be made of those sold under the name “PFIYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57”.
• waxes of animal or vegetable origin such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, wax sumac, montan wax, Orange and Lemon waxes, Laurel wax, hydrogenated Jojoba wax, sunflower wax, in particular refined.
• polyoxyethylenated beeswax such as PEG- 6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax
• polyoxyethylenated carnauba waxes such as PEG-12 carnauba
• lanolin waxes hydrogenated or not, polyoxyethenated or polyoxypropylenated, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin
• PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, the Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax / Polyglyceryl-3 Esters mixture, polyglycerolated vegetable waxes such as mimosa, jojoba, sunflower waxes, and their mixtures (Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters.
• total esters is understood to mean that all the hydroxylated functions of the glycerol are esterified.
• trihydroxystearine or glyceryl trihydroxystearate
• tristearin or glyceryl tristearate
• tribhenin or glyceryl tribhenate
• triesters of glycerol and of 12-hydroxystearic acid or of hydrogenated castor oil, such as, for example, Thixcin R, Thixcin E, marketed by Elementis Specialties.
• Alcohol wax of alcohols, preferably linear, preferably saturated, comprising from 16 to 60 carbon atoms, the melting point of which is between 25 ° C and 90 ° C.
• alcohol wax there may be mentioned stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, palmitic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or their mixtures.
• the oil-in-water emulsion may optionally comprise at least one additional wax chosen from nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes.
• nonpolar hydrocarbon wax within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax comprising only carbon or hydrogen atoms in its structure. In other words, such a wax is free from other atoms, in particular heteroatoms such as, for example, nitrogen, oxygen, silicon.
• hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the synthesis of Fischer-Tropsch, especially polyethylene microwaxes.
• silicone wax mention may be made, for example, of mixtures comprising a compound of C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name), for example the product Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax sold by the company Dow Corning. Mention may also be made of mixtures comprising a compound of the C30-45 Alkyl Methicone type (INCI name), such as for example the product Dow Corning® AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax. Mention may also be made of silicone beeswax.
• ICI name Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane
• silicone beeswax silicone beeswax.
• the oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention may comprise a content of wax (es), preferably polar, preferably hydrocarbon (s), of between 0.5 and 10% by weight, or of 0 , 5 to 6% by weight, or from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
• wax es
• polar preferably hydrocarbon
• the solid composition which is the subject of the present application can be used to prepare an industrial oil-in-water emulsion, or food, or pharmaceutical, or dermatological, or cosmetic.
• the solid composition makes it possible to prepare an oil-in-water emulsion, and more preferably an emulsion with a transformation texture.
• the solid composition is used to prepare an oil-in-oil emulsion which is a cosmetic product, chosen from among skin care products, or hair care or coloring products, or oral care products, hygiene products, or make-up products, or a perfume.
• the solid composition makes it possible to prepare an oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion with a transformation texture.
• the method comprises an emulsification step which is carried out at a temperature ranging from 10 ° C to 90 ° C, or at a temperature ranging from 15 ° C to 50 ° C, or at a temperature ranging from 18 ° C to 35 ° C, or a temperature ranging from 18 ° C to 25 ° C.
• the solid composition which is the subject of the present application makes it possible to prepare oil-in-water emulsions with very varied pot textures depending on the amount used in said emulsion.
• potted texture is understood to mean in particular the appearance and viscosity in a container, for example a jar or a bottle, before application to the skin. Used at a low mass percentage, that is to say less than or equal to 2%, or 1%, relative to the total weight of emulsion, the solid composition gives the emulsion a fluid texture, and thus makes it possible to prepare an emulsion in the form of the shape of milk.
• the solid composition gives the emulsion a thick texture, and thus makes it possible to prepare a thick cream.
• the texture of the emulsion will be that of a slightly fluid to slightly thick cream.
• the solid composition gives the emulsion a shiny appearance.
• the solid composition which is the subject of the present application also makes it possible to prepare an oil-in-water emulsion exhibiting a transformable texture.
• transformation texture means an emulsion which has a texture when applied to the skin, in particular under shear stress, different from the texture in a pot, in particular a more fluid texture, and / or a texture that is both aqueous and oily.
• the jar texture is that of a thick cream, the texture obtained by spreading it on the skin will become a fluid texture, and may also present a feeling of a mixture of a watery texture and an oily texture.
• the Applicant considers that this transformation texture is allowed by a phenomenon known as "quick-break", that is to say of rapid breaking of the emulsion under shear stress on the skin, with the novelty that this quick-break is in water and oil, that is to say that the feeling on the skin is both that of an aqueous phase and that of an oily phase.
• the solid composition that is the subject of the present application thus has the advantage of being a composition of natural origin making it possible to prepare oil-in-water emulsions exhibiting a quick-break in water and in oil.
• the oil-in-water emulsions prepared with the solid composition which is the subject of the present application spread easily and evenly on the skin, and after penetration of the oil-in-water emulsion, the sensation of tack is weak or even absent.
• the solid composition which is the subject of the application makes it possible to prepare an emulsion which gives a rich feel.
• mass percentage of average oil is meant a mass percentage ranging from 60% to 20%, or from 50% to 25%, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
• mass percentage of low oil is meant a mass percentage ranging from 20% to 1%, or from 15% to 2.5%, or from 10% to 5%, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
• the oil-in-water emulsions prepared with the solid composition that is the subject of the present application have good compatibility with anionic surfactants, preservatives, salts, ethanol and pigments. In the presence of these ingredients, the emulsion remains stable, and its texture remains unchanged.
• FIG. 1 is an illustration of the transformation texture and the “quick-break”.
• Example 1 Preparation of a solid composition according to the invention
• the solid compositions according to the invention are prepared by dry mixing the powders of Table 1 in the mass proportions indicated.
• Cleargum® CO 01 can be replaced by Cleargum® CO 03 and Cleargum®CO A1 in the same quantities.
• Example 2 preparation of sunflower oil emulsions and their stability
• Oil-in-water emulions are prepared from sunflower oil and using the solid emulsifying composition CS1 of Example 1 in two proportions by weight, 2% m and 5% m relative to the total weight d 'emulsion, and for mass proportions of oil ranging from 10% m to 70% m relative to the total weight of emulsion, according to the compositions of Table 2.
• each emulsion To prepare each emulsion, the required amount of solid emulsifying composition CS1 is dispersed in the required body of water in total at 20 ° C with stirring at 1000 rpm for 15 min. Then the mass of oil is added with stirring at 2500-3000 rpm for 2 minutes. The mixture is then kept under stirring at 3000 rpm for 30 minutes. The emulsion is then allowed to stand at 20 ° C for 48 hours.
• composition CS1 By means of the composition CS1, by varying the mass proportion of oil between 10% and 70%, it is possible to prepare emulsions having viscosities ranging from low values, ie approximately 3000 mPa.s and thus having the form of a fluid milk, up to high values, ie approximately 72000 mPa.s and then having the form of a thick cream. Intermediate viscosity values are also accessible, for example values of 12000 to 16000 mPa.s, giving emulsions in the form of fluid to medium thick cream.
• the storage of the emulsions is continued at 20 ° C., and the viscosity is re-measured after one week, then after one month of storage.
• Example 3 preparation of emulsion with oils of different natures
• Oil-in-water emulsions are produced at percentages by weight of oil of 10%, 30% and 60% according to the protocol of the example. 2, using a mass percentage of CS1 composition of 3%, and using a single oil per emulsion, for the different oils in Table 6.
• Each emulsion is then evaluated by a Brookfield viscosity measurement (at 20 ° C at 20 rpm for 1 minute), and by a measurement of the particle sizes with an optical microscope, and by an evaluation of the color of the emulsion. .
• the CS1 composition made it possible to obtain white emulsions with all the types of oil tested, with viscosities ranging from approximately 6500-8000 mPa.s, corresponding to a fluid cream texture, at approximately 80,000-85,000 mPa.s, then corresponding to a thick texture.
• Example 4 stability of the emulsions as a function of the pH
• Emulsions are prepared according to the protocol of Example 2, using the following mass percentages: 5% of composition CS1, 20% of "Helianthus annuus seed oil” oil, 75% of demineralized water.
• the pH is adjusted to a target value corresponding to the values shown in Table 8, ranging from 2.6 to 12, with citric acid solution or dilute sodium hydroxide.
• the Brookfield viscosity is measured at 20 rpm after 24 hours, then 7 days, of storage at 22 ° C.
• the viscosities of the emulsions prepared are sufficiently stable to qualify these emulsions as stable.
• the stability of the Brookfield viscosity (at 20 ° C at 20 rpm for 1 minute) during storage at pH 4, 4.7 and 6.5 over periods of 48 hours and 3 was then studied. months at 22 ° C, and 1 month at 50 ° C (Table 8 bis).
• Example 5 stability of the emulsions as a function of the salt content
• Example 6 stability of the emulsions as a function of the surfactant content
• Example 2 According to the protocol of Example 2, four emulsions are prepared at 3% in composition CS1, 35% in oil “Helianthus annuus seed oil”, between 0% and 20% of surfactant mixture sold under the name “Texapon WW100 By BASF, and the "sufficient quantity for 100%” of demineralized water.
• the emulsions obtained after storage for 48 hours at 20 ° C. are characterized (Table 11), by evaluating the size of the particles under an optical microscope, and the color of the emulsions.
• the emulsions prepared with the composition CS1 exhibit good tolerance to the presence of the mixture of anionic and nonionic surfactants. The viscosities are lowered but remain acceptable. In addition, the emulsions remain stable. [0223] [Table 11a]
• Coloring emulsions are prepared with the yellow pigment “Unipure Yellow LC 182 HLC” from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies:
• Coloring emulsions were prepared with the solid composition CS1 and with different dyes at percentages by weight of 10% or 20% (relative to the weight of the emulsion), and by introducing the pigment in different ways: either into water, either in oil, or either at the end, that is to say in the emulsion obtained. Brookfield viscosity was measured following storage at 22 ° C for 48 hours and 3 months, and following storage at 50 ° C for 1 month. The results are presented in Tables 13 bis and 13 ter. The Brookfield viscosity measuring mobile is SP6 at 20 ° C. at 20 rpm for 1 minute.
• Example 8 illustration of the transformation texture
• a transformation-textured cream is prepared using the solid emulsifying and texturing composition which is the subject of the present application, according to the composition of Table 14, by following the protocol below.
• the solid composition CS1 is dispersed in water at 20 ° C. with stirring at 1000 rpm with a deflocculating paddle, until the solid composition is hydrated and thus becomes opalescent, which requires approximately 5 to 10 minutes.
• the ingredients of phase B are mixed at 20 ° C. Still at 20 ° C., phase B is added slowly, over approximately 1 to 2 minutes, in phase A, while stirring at 2000-3000 rpm with the deflocculating paddle, then stirring is continued for 10 minutes.
• a white cream of thick "pot texture" is obtained, exhibiting a Brookfield viscosity at 20 ° C. at 20 rpm with the mobile SP6, from 23,000 to 27,000 mPa.s .
• This cream is stable for at least one month at 50 ° C.
• the thick texture is preserved, as illustrated in photograph B of figure 1.
• the texture of transforms into a mixture of aqueous texture and oily texture as illustrated in photograph C of figure 1. This transformation seems to be the result of a phenomenon called "quick -break ”in both water and oil.
• composition of Table 15 a variant of the texture cream with previous transformation is prepared, by adding cosmetic additives, such as the isosorbide humectant sold under the name “Beauté by Roquette PO500” by Roquette Fromme, preservatives of paraben type, perfume, and an anti-aging cosmetic active agent, tocopherol, sold under the name “Covi-ox T-70 C” by BASF.
• cosmetic additives such as the isosorbide humectant sold under the name “Beauté by Roquette PO500” by Roquette Fromme, preservatives of paraben type, perfume, and an anti-aging cosmetic active agent, tocopherol, sold under the name “Covi-ox T-70 C” by BASF.
• a thick cream is obtained as above, just as stable, and also exhibiting a texture which can be transformed with a quick-break in water and in oil.
• emulsions are prepared comprising a percentage by mass of 3% in composition CS1, 35% in "Helianthus annuus seed oil” and "an amount sufficient to reach 100%" in demineralized water. .
• One of the emulsions constitutes the control.
• the others are supplemented with a dose of preservative according to Table 17.
• the dose is expressed as a percentage by mass, that is to say in% by weight of preservative relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
• the emulsions obtained after storage for 48 hours and 3 months at 20 ° C., and in parallel after 1 month at 50 ° C., are characterized by measuring the Brookfield viscosity at 20 ° C. and 20 rpm for 1 minute.
• the emulsions prepared with the solid composition CS1 supplemented with preservatives have a stable viscosity which drops slightly during storage at 22 ° C for 3 months and at 50 ° C for 1 month, but which remains sufficient to retain the initial texture of the cream.
• Example 11 compatibility with the method of preparation
• Emulsions are prepared with 3% by weight of solid composition CS1, 35% by weight of “Helianthus annuus seed oil” and 62% by weight of demineralized water, according to 5 different preparation methods, in order to evaluate the ease with which the emulsion can be prepared using a solid composition such as CS1:
• “deflocculating” preparation method this is a preparation protocol identical to that of Example 2, in which the stirring is provided by a mobile of the “dispersion turbine” or even “dispersion turbine” type. deflocculating turbine ”.
• the emulsions obtained are characterized after storage for 48 hours and 3 months at 20 ° C, and in parallel after 1 month at 50 ° C, by measuring the Brookfield viscosity at 20 ° C and 20 rpm for 1 minute (table 18).
• Example 12 implementation in a sun protection cream
• a sunscreen was prepared by emulsification with a solid composition CS1 according to the composition of Table 19 by following the protocol of Example 2, and by adding phase C to the emulsion obtained.
• the sun protection indices were determined by in vitro protocols by the Helioscience laboratory according to the following protocol. Three “Sunplate” type PMMA plates were used, and 4 measurements per plate were done. On each of the plates, the cream prepared according to Table 19. The plates were subjected to irradiation of 550 W / m2 for 30 minutes with an “ATLAS CPS +” solar simulator. Before and after irradiation, and before and after a bath in water for water resistance, the level of photoprotection was measured with a “Kontron 933” spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere. The results are shown in Table 20.
• the CS1 composition made it possible to prepare a sunscreen whose level of sun protection is "50+", and whose water resistance is 69%.

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