EP3641722A1 - Oil-in-water emulsion comprising a fatty alcohol, a poly(oxyethylene) alkyl ether, a wax and a water-soluble polysaccharide - Google Patents

Oil-in-water emulsion comprising a fatty alcohol, a poly(oxyethylene) alkyl ether, a wax and a water-soluble polysaccharide

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Publication number
EP3641722A1
EP3641722A1 EP18733264.8A EP18733264A EP3641722A1 EP 3641722 A1 EP3641722 A1 EP 3641722A1 EP 18733264 A EP18733264 A EP 18733264A EP 3641722 A1 EP3641722 A1 EP 3641722A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
alcohol
composition
carbon atoms
weight
composition according
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP18733264.8A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Bouchra Bouarfa
Zohra Moujahed
Laura CLEMENT
Clara FERRAZ ANHEL
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP3641722A1 publication Critical patent/EP3641722A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/927—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of insects, e.g. shellac
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair

Definitions

  • OIL-DAN S-WATER EMULSION COMPRISING A FATTY ALCOHOL, ONE
  • the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
  • At least one nonionic surfactant chosen from fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and
  • composition having a viscosity measured at 25 ° C. with a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer at 200 s -1 at ambient temperature at mobile 3 or mobile 4 after 10 min, ranging from 1200 to 8000 mPa.s.
  • galenics In the field of cosmetic skin care products including deodorant and antiperspirant products, it is possible to define different categories of galenics: aerosols, sticks, creams, gels, soft solid or roll-on.
  • compositions are a new category of products appreciated by consumers for their effectiveness and their cosmetic qualities (ease of application, dry and soft touch). They are similar to solid compositions that soften under the effect of a stress such as spreading on the surface of the skin or for example by extrusion through a perforated wall device (grid). Compositions "soft solid” by their melting texture can also be valued as a care product of human keratin materials such as skin or lips as massage products, balms or ointments, sticks for the care of the lips. They have been described in particular in application WO2012 / 084522. Because of their anhydrous texture, these formulations may appear oily, present on the skin and not very fresh.
  • WO2014 / 128060 describes antiperspirant compositions in the form of wax-based W / O emulsions, a water-soluble polysaccharide and a surfactant system comprising a specific fatty alcohol and an alkylpolyglucoside.
  • Such compositions still leave white traces after application. It therefore remains the need to produce cosmetic formulations "soft-solid" care for the skin, including deodorant and / or antiperspirant products, combining ease of application, dry touch immediate, soft, non-wetting and non-sticky and which are effective in the desired application.
  • "soft-solid" cosmetic compositions for skin care especially deodorant and / or antiperspirant products, which minimize the presence of white traces after application.
  • the present invention thus relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
  • At least one nonionic surfactant chosen from fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and
  • composition having a viscosity measured at 25 ° C. with a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer at 200 s -1 at ambient temperature at mobile 3 or mobile 4 after 10 min, ranging from 1200 to 8000 mPa.s.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process treatment and / or care of human keratin materials characterized in that it consists in applying to the surface of the keratin material a composition as defined above.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating human perspiration and / or body odor related to perspiration comprising applying to the surface of a human keratin material a composition as defined above comprising at least one deodorant active agent and / or an antiperspirant active.
  • cosmetically acceptable is meant compatible with the skin and / or its integuments or mucous membranes which has a pleasant color, smell and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), which can divert the consumer to use this composition.
  • human keratin materials is meant the skin (body, face, eye area), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, nails, lips and mucous membranes.
  • antiperspirant agent any substance which has the effect of reducing the flow of sweat and / or of reducing the sensation of moisture related to human sweat and / or of masking human sweat.
  • Deodorant active is any substance capable of masking, absorbing, improving and / or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria.
  • “Fatty alcohol comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms” means any non-alkoxylated alcohol comprising a hydrocarbon chain, preferably saturated and linear, in particular consisting of a linear alkyl chain, said chain comprising between 8 and 30 carbon atoms. carbon and a hydroxyl function.
  • oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated C8-30 fatty alcohol is meant any alcohol comprising:
  • hydrocarbon chain preferably saturated and linear, in particular consisting of a linear alkyl chain, said chain comprising between 8 and 30 carbon atoms, ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units, and
  • hydrocarbon chain is meant an organic group consisting predominantly of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.
  • ester compound is intended to mean any organic molecule comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least one ester function of formula -COOR where R represents a hydrocarbon radical, in particular a linear and saturated alkyl radical.
  • wax not comprising a C 20 -C 39 ester compound means any wax containing less than 1% by weight of C 20 -C 39 ester compound, preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the weight wax, or even free of ester compound in C 2 o-
  • the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 1 1357-3 standard; 1999.
  • the melting point of the surfactant or wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments.
  • the measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C. to 100 ° C., at the heating rate of 10 ° C./min, and is then cooled from 100 ° C. to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • compositions of the invention have a viscosity measured at 25 ° C. with a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer at 200 s -1 at ambient temperature at the mobile 3 or at the mobile 4 after 10 min, between 1200 and 8000 mPa.s.
  • the measurement of the viscosity of the product is carried out with a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer according to the CID-012-02 method.
  • the necessary torque is measured to overcome the resistance of the fluid whose viscosity is to be determined by means of a submerged element (moving or measuring body) rotating at a selected and constant speed.
  • the measurement is carried out with a set (FIG. product to be analyzed - cup - measuring body) at 25 ° C.
  • the mobile used to make the measurements is mobile 3 or mobile 4 according to the viscosity of the product.
  • the volume of substance introduced into the cup of mobile 3 or mobile 4 is 25 mL. The measurement is made after 10 minutes.
  • the system support and the selected measuring body are placed in the instrument for measurement.
  • Fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which can be liquid at 25 ° C. and at 1 atmosphere, or they can be solid. They correspond to the formula R-OH in which R represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more OH groups.
  • R comprises from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • R is a saturated, linear or branched radical.
  • the liquid saturated fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic cycle. They are preferably acyclic. Among the liquid saturated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol.
  • the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols have, in their structure, at least one double or triple bond and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them and they can be conjugated or unconjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They may optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic cycle. They are preferably acyclic. Among the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols, mention may be made of oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol.
  • the solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from linear saturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made of myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture, cetylstearyl alcohol.
  • the composition comprises one or more saturated, solid linear fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, chosen in particular from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, alcohol and the like. stearyl and cetylstearyl alcohol.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises the fatty alcohol or alcohols in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 1.2% to 8% by weight. by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of:
  • cetyl alcohol such as Cetanol commercial products from Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd .
  • ALFOL 16 ALCOHOL® from SASOL GERMANY GMBH (HAMBURG)
  • stearyl alcohol such as the commercial product KALCOL 80-98® from KAO,
  • arachidyl alcohol for instance the commercial products Hainol 20SS® from the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co. LTD and NACOL 20-95® from SASOL GERMANY GMBH (HAMBURG),
  • behenyl alcohol such as the commercial products NACOL 22-97® and NACOL 22-98® from the company SASOL GERMANY GMBH (HAMBURG),
  • cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol; INCI name: "cetearyl alcohol") as the mixture comprising 70% by weight of alcohol (s) fatty Cl 8, 30% by weight alcohol (s) fat Ci 6 such as the commercial product NAFOL 1618 S® (SASOL GERMANY GMBH HAMBURG),
  • Behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, stearyl acid, a cetylstearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof will be used more particularly.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises at least two fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated.
  • the oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated C 8 -C 30 fatty alcohols may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units. Preferably, they comprise from 2 to 50 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, preferably from 2 to 25 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units.
  • oxyethylenated C 8 -C 30 fatty alcohols will be used.
  • the oxyethylenated fatty alcohols correspond to the formula R- [O-CH 2 -CH 2 ] n -OH in which R represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and n is an integer ranging from 1 to 150, preferably from 2 to 100, more preferably from 2 to 50, preferably from 2 to 25.
  • R comprises from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • R is a saturated, linear or branched radical.
  • ethoxylated stearyl alcohol containing 20 oxyethylene units such as BRU 78 sold by the company UNIQEMA,
  • C12-15 Pareth-7 ethoxylated ethoxylated alcohol containing 30 oxyethylene units
  • ethoxylated 10-oxyethylene ethylene behenyl alcohol (CTFA name "Beheneth-10"), such as the EUMULGIN BA 10 commercial product from COGNIS, or
  • At least two oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene fatty alcohols, which comprise the same hydrocarbon chain, are used.
  • a mixture of ethoxylated stearyl alcohols is used.
  • a mixture of ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylene units (“Steareth-2”) and stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 20 oxyethylene units (“Steareth-20”) is used.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylated C 8-30 fatty alcohols in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 1, 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • CIRES oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylated C 8-30 fatty alcohols in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 1, 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C. ° C up to 200 ° C and especially up to 120 ° C.
  • the waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes having a melting point of greater than 45 ° C. and comprising one or more C 4 o C 7 ester compounds and not comprising a C 20 -7 ester compound. C39.
  • the waxes according to the invention can also be used in the form of a mixture of waxes.
  • the ester content comprising from 40 to 70 carbon atoms preferably ranges from 20 to 100% by weight and preferably from 20 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of wax (es).
  • a wax selected from Candelilla wax, rice bran wax, beeswax, sunflower wax and mixtures thereof will be used.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise a wax content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.8 to 8% by weight.
  • polysaccharide any polymer consisting of several monosaccharides (or monosaccharides) having the general formula:
  • the water-soluble polysaccharides that can be used in the present invention are chosen in particular starches, gellanes, scleroglucan gum, guar gum, konjac, agar-agar, celluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, and mixtures thereof. .
  • the starches are used.
  • water-soluble means partially or totally soluble in water to give a gelled or thickened solution at a concentration of 1% of active ingredient in water, after cold or hot processing.
  • the starches that can be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary units which are anhydroglucose units.
  • the number of these motifs and their assembly make it possible to distinguish between amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer).
  • the relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, vary according to the botanical origin of the starches.
  • the amylose / amylopectin weight ratio can range from 30/70 (corn) to 16/84 (rice).
  • the molecular weight of the amylose is preferably up to 1 million by weight and that of the amylopectin is preferably from 100 to 500 million by weight.
  • starch molecules used in the present invention may be unmodified or chemically or physically modified. They can have as botanical origin the cereals or the tubers. Thus, natural starches can be selected from starches of maize, rice, tapioca, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, palm, pea.
  • Unmodified starches include unmodified corn starches (INCI name: ZEA MAYS STARCH) such as the products sold under the trade names Farmal CS®, in particular the commercial product Farmal CS 3650® by Corn Products International.
  • the starches used are modified by crosslinking with functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules which will thus be bonded together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups. ).
  • functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules which will thus be bonded together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups. ).
  • X denotes in particular alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline earth metals (for example calcium, magnesium), ammonium salts, amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, amino-3-propanediol-1,2, ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline.
  • alkali metals for example sodium or potassium
  • alkaline earth metals for example calcium, magnesium
  • ammonium salts amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, amino-3-propanediol-1,2, ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline.
  • the phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.
  • Preferred diamidon phosphates or compounds rich in diamidon phosphate especially the diamidon phosphate hydroxypropyl ethers INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate as the products sold under the trade names FARINEX VA70 C or FARMAL MS 689® of the company AVEBE Stadex; products sold under the trade names STRUCTURE BTC®, STRUCTURE HVS®, STRUCTURE XL® or STRUCTURE ZEA® by NATIONAL STARCH (cornstarch phosphate).
  • the starch will be selected from unmodified corn starches, unmodified rice starches, cornstarch phosphates and mixtures thereof.
  • the starch will be selected from cornstarch phosphates.
  • the water-soluble polysaccharide or polysaccharides may preferably represent from 0.25% to 6% by weight and more particularly from 0.5% to 4% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the final composition.
  • aqueous phase is meant a phase comprising water and in general any molecule dissolved in water in the composition.
  • the aqueous phase of said compositions contains water and in general other solvents which are soluble or miscible with water.
  • Solvents that are soluble or miscible in water include short-chain monohydric alcohols, for example C 1 -C 4 alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol (or 1,2-octanediol), diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether and sorbitol. More particularly, propylene glycol, glycerine and propane 1,3 diol will be used.
  • the concentration of the aqueous phase preferably ranges from 1 to 90% by weight, preferably from 30 to 90% by weight, preferably from 40% to 90% by weight, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one immiscible organic liquid phase in water called the oily phase.
  • This generally comprises one or more hydrophobic compounds which render said phase immiscible in water.
  • Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.).
  • the water-immiscible organic liquid organic phase in accordance with the invention generally comprises at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and optionally at least one volatile or non-volatile silicone oil.
  • oil means a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 10 5 Pa).
  • the oil can be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile oil means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • non-volatile oil is meant an oil remaining on the skin or the keratinous fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). ).
  • oils in accordance with the invention are preferably chosen from all cosmetically acceptable oils, in particular mineral, animal, plant and synthetic oils, in particular hydrocarbon oils or silicone oils or mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbon oil an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functions selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions.
  • the oil has a viscosity of from 0.5 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably from 50 to 50,000 mPa.s and more preferably from 100 to 30,000 mPa.s.
  • silicon oil is meant an oil comprising in its structure carbon atoms and at least one silicon atom.
  • volatile hydrocarbon oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:
  • volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 1 6 carbon atoms, and especially the C 8 -C isoalkanes 6 of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4 , 4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or permetyls, branched esters C 8 -C 16 , isohexyl neopentanoate , and their mixtures.
  • isoparaffins also known as isoparaffins
  • isododecane also known as 2,2,4 , 4,6-pentamethylheptane
  • isodecane isohexadecane
  • Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell or by Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of Cognis DE10 2008 01 2 457.
  • vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 24 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or oils oils of wheat germ, olive, sweet almond oil , palm, colza, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower,nadooulier, passionflower , musk rose, sunflower, maize, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid t
  • esters in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formula RiCOORg in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing 1 at 40 carbon atoms with R 1 + R 2 > 10 such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alcohol benzoate C1 2-C15, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl octyl erucate 2 dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; octanoates, decanoates,
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane;
  • branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol and 2-undecyl; pentadecanol, oleic alcohol;
  • higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;
  • volatile silicones mention may be made of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones comprising optionally alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
  • R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
  • non-volatile silicone oils By way of example of non-volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, linear non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) will be used.
  • PDMS linear non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane
  • the oily phase comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil and optionally at least one nonvolatile silicone oil.
  • the hydrocarbon oil will preferably be chosen from triglycerides such as caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, fatty acid esters such as palmitate isopropyl, ethers such as dimethyl ether, alkanes such as isohexadecane and mixtures thereof.
  • triglycerides such as caprylic / capric acid triglycerides
  • fatty acid esters such as palmitate isopropyl
  • ethers such as dimethyl ether
  • alkanes such as isohexadecane and mixtures thereof.
  • the hydrocarbon oil or the hydrocarbon-based oils will preferably be present in the composition at concentrations ranging from 1 to 30% by weight and more preferably from 3 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the concentration of the oily phase preferably varies from 5 to 30% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions may comprise at least one nonionic associative polymer.
  • sociative polymers is understood to mean hydrophilic polymers capable in an aqueous medium of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules. Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
  • hydrophobic group is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched.
  • the hydrophobic group comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the hydrocarbon group comes from a monofunctional compound.
  • the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol or a polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol such as steareth-100. It can also denote a hydrocarbon polymer such as for example polybutadiene.
  • the nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from:
  • celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain for example hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups, especially C 8 -C 22 , arylalkyl, alkylaryl, such as NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (alkyls d 6 ) sold by AQUALON,
  • celluloses modified with alkyl phenol polyalkylene glycol ether groups such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenol ether) sold by the company Amerchol,
  • guars such as hydroxypropyl guar, modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as an alkyl chain,
  • inulins modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as the alkyl carbamate inulins and in particular the lauryl carbamate inulin proposed by the company Oraffi under the name INUTEC SP1, and
  • diesters of polyethylene glycol and fatty acid such as polyethylene glycol distearate (150 EO), such as PEG-150 Distearate sold under the trade name EMCOL L 32-45® from WITCO.
  • the associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain both hydrophilic sequences most often of a polyoxyethylenated nature (the polyurethanes may then be called polyurethane polyethers) and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic chains alone and / or or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains.
  • these polymers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains may be pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided.
  • the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
  • the associative polyurethanes can be sequenced in the form of triblock or multiblock.
  • the hydrophobic sequences may therefore be at each end of the chain (for example: hydrophilic central block triblock copolymer) or distributed at both the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example).
  • These polymers may also be graft or star.
  • the associative polyurethanes are triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1,000 oxyethylenated groups.
  • the associative polyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.
  • a non-ionic polyurethane associative polymer is used as gelling agent.
  • fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers that can be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate® FX 1100 (Steareth-100 / PEG 136 / HDI (hexamethyl diisocyanate) copolymer), Rheolate® 205 Urea function sold by the company ELEMENTIS or Rheolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184® or Acrysol RM 2020.
  • ELFACOS T210® chain C 12 alkyl -C 14 Mention may also be made of the product ELFACOS T212® C16-18 alkyl chain (PPG-14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate) from AKZO.
  • the product DW 1206B® from ROHM & HAAS with a C 20 alkyl chain and a urethane linkage, proposed at 20% solids content in water, can also be used.
  • solutions or dispersions of these polymers especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium.
  • RHEOLATE® 255, RHEOLATE® 278 and RHEOLATE® 244 sold by the company ELEMENTIS.
  • the associative polyurethanes that can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380, 389 (1993).
  • an associative polyurethane obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
  • ACULYN 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI) at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%);
  • ACULYN 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a propylene glycol mixture ( 39%) and water (26%)].
  • solutions or dispersions of these polymers include, RHEOLATE FX1010®, RHEOLATE FX1035® and RHEOLATE 1070® from ELEMENTIS, RHEOLATE 255®, RHEOLATE 278® and RHEOLATE 244® sold by ELEMENTIS society. It is also possible to use ACULYN 44, ACULYN 46®, DW 1206F® and DW 1206J® products, as well as the Acrysol RM 184 from the company Rohm & Haas, or else the BORCHI GEL LW 44® from the BORCHERS company. and their mixtures.
  • an associative nonionic polyether polyurethane such as that sold in particular by the company ELEMENTIS under the name RHEOLATE FX 1100®, which is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 136 moles of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 100 moles of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) having a weight average molecular weight of 30000 (INCI name: PEG-136 / Steareth-1001 / SMDI Copolymer).
  • RHEOLATE FX 1100® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 136 moles of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 100 moles of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) having a weight average molecular weight of 30000 (INCI name: PEG-136 / Steareth-1001 / SMDI Copolymer).
  • the composition according to the invention contains less than 0.4% by weight, preferably less than 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of nonionic associative polymer (s). (s) active matter.
  • the composition according to the invention does not contain associative non-ionic polymer (s).
  • compositions according to the invention may also comprise, in addition, additional cosmetic and dermatological active ingredients.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may further comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from additional surfactants, opacifiers, stabilizers, preservatives, perfumes, thickeners, sunscreens, dermatological or cosmetic active agents, fillers, suspending agents, sequestering agents, dyestuffs or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.
  • cosmetic adjuvants chosen from additional surfactants, opacifiers, stabilizers, preservatives, perfumes, thickeners, sunscreens, dermatological or cosmetic active agents, fillers, suspending agents, sequestering agents, dyestuffs or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may in fact comprise one or more additional surfactants.
  • it comprises at least one additional nonionic surfactant, preferably at least one glyceryl and fatty acid ester.
  • the glyceryl ester of fatty acid can be obtained in particular from an acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • glycerol ester and fatty acid there may be mentioned glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate) (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • CFA name Glyceryl stearate
  • the glyceryl ester of fatty acid used is chosen from glyceryl stearates.
  • the glyceryl ester of fatty acid may also be present as a mixture with polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate, and in particular that comprising a 50/50 mixture, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by Croda.
  • the glyceryl ester of fatty acid may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight.
  • fillers mention may be made of talc, kaolin, silicas, clays, perlite or particulate insoluble starches in water.
  • porous silica microspheres especially porous silica microspheres.
  • Spherical microparticles of porous silica preferably have an average particle size ranging from 0.5 to 20 ⁇ and more particularly from 3 to 15 ⁇ . They preferably have a specific surface ranging from 50 to 1000 m 2 / g and more particularly from
  • porous silica microspheres 150 to 800 m 2 / g. They preferably have a specific pore volume ranging from 0.5 to 5 ml / g and more particularly from 1 to 2 ml / g.
  • porous silica microspheres the following commercial products may be used:
  • Sylosphere® from Fuji Silysia amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane, in particular those sold under the name SA Sunsphere® H 33;
  • hollow particles of amorphous silicas in particular those sold under the name Silica Shells by the company Kobo; or
  • precipitated silica powders surface-treated with a mineral wax such as precipitated silica treated with a polyethylene wax and in particular those sold under the name ACEMATT OR 412 by the company Evonik Degussa.
  • the dermatological or cosmetic active agents may in particular be chosen from moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, barrier-improving agents, depigmenting agents, antioxidant agents, dermo-decontracting agents, anti-glycation agents and agents stimulating synthesis.
  • dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, inhibitors of NO-synthases, the peripheral benzodiazepine receptor antagonists (PBR), the agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, the agents stimulating the energy metabolism of the cells, the tensing agents, the lipo-restructuring agents, the slimming agents, the agents promoting the microcirculation dermal, soothing and / or anti-irritant agents, sebum-regulators or anti-seborrhoeic agents, astringent agents, healing agents, anti-inflammatory agents,
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating human perspiration and / or body odor related to perspiration comprising applying to the surface of a human keratin material a composition as defined above comprising at least one deodorant active agent and / or an antiperspirant active.
  • a composition as defined above comprising at least one deodorant active agent and / or an antiperspirant active.
  • the compositions in accordance with the invention can therefore be used as a deodorant and / or antiperspirant product and may contain at least one deodorant active agent and / or an antiperspirant active ingredient. Additional salts or antiperspirant complexes
  • antiperspirant salts or complexes of aluminum and / or zirconium are preferably chosen from aluminum halohydrates; aluminum and zirconium halohydrates, complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride with or without an amino acid such as those described in US Pat. No. 3,798,068.
  • aluminum chlorohydrate in activated or non-activated form, aluminum chlorohydrex, chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol aluminum complex, aluminum chlorohydrexpropyleneglycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrex complex polyethylene glycol, aluminum complex dichlorohydrex propylene glycol, sesquichlorohydrate aluminum, sesquichlorohydrex aluminum polyethylene glycol complex, sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol aluminum complex, aluminum sulphate buffered with sodium aluminum lactate.
  • aluminum and zirconium salts there may be mentioned in particular aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate.
  • the complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine).
  • ZAG when the amino acid is glycine.
  • the antiperspirant aluminum and / or zirconium salts or complexes can be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of at least 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 1 to 20% and more particularly between 2 and 15% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Deodorant active ingredients preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 1 to 20% and more particularly between 2 and 15% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more additional deodorant active agents.
  • Deodorant active is any substance capable of masking, absorbing, improving and / or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria.
  • the deodorant active agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents acting on the germs of axillary odors, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether ( ® Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'- hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1 - (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea ( ® Triclocarban) or 3,7,1 1 -trimethyldodeca -2, 5,10-trienol (Farnesol ®); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1,3-diaminopropanetraacetic acid), 1,2-decanediol (SYMCLARIOL from Symrise), gly
  • zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate; zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulfonate; zinc ricinoleate;
  • salicylic acid and its derivatives such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid;
  • zeolites in particular metallic zeolites, without silver
  • the deodorant active agents may preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • weight concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the following examples serve to illustrate the present invention.
  • the amounts are given as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase containing the thickeners (water-soluble polysaccharide in particular) and the aluminum salts are heated to 80 ° C .;
  • the waxes and the surfactant mixture are heated with the oils at 80 ° C .;
  • the two phases are mixed and sheared under Rayneri emulsifier for 10 minutes;
  • the formula is cooled to room temperature under Rayneri deflocculator before being packaged.
  • the formula to be tested is deposited in order to have 0.08 g after spreading (ie approximately 3.75 mg / cm 2 , which corresponds to the 0.4 g consumed on average by the consumers per axelle and per day).
  • the formula is spread in a circle (20-25 turns) to the unpowdered fingerstand on the Supplale support 50mm in diameter.
  • the formulation 1 according to the invention comprising a mixture of steareth-2 and steareth-20, and
  • the formulation 1 according to the invention comprising a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, and
  • a formulation 4 according to the invention devoid of PEG-100 stearate.
  • the concentrations of the various compounds are given in% of Active Matter (AD).
  • the compounds used are identical to those described in Example 1.
  • the formulation 1 according to the invention comprising cetearyl alcohol, and
  • a formulation according to the invention comprising stearyl alcohol.
  • formulations 1 and 5 according to the invention comprising cetearyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol, transfer a similar amount of white traces.
  • the formulation 1 according to the invention comprising caprylic / capric triglycerides and silicone oil, and
  • a formulation 6 according to the invention comprising isohexadecane and silicone oil.
  • the concentrations of the various compounds are given in% of Active Matter (AD).
  • formulations 1 and 6 according to the invention comprising respectively caprylic / capric triglycerides or isohexadecane, transfer a similar amount of white traces.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: A) a continuous aqueous phase, and B) an oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase and comprising at least one hydrocarbon oil; C) at least one mixture consisting of: i) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected among the fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and ii) at least two fatty alcohols of C8-30 oxyethylenes and/or oxypropylenes; D) at least one wax with melting point greater than 45°C comprising one or more ester compounds with C40-C70 and not comprising ester compounds with C20-C39, in a quantity from 1 to 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition; and E) at least one water-soluble polysaccharide; said composition having a viscosity measured at 25°C by means of a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer at 200 s-1 at ambient temperature at mobile 3 or mobile 4 after 10 minutes, ranging from 1200 to 8000 mPa.s.

Description

EMULSION HUILE-DAN S- EAU COMPRENANT UN ALCOOL GRAS, UN  OIL-DAN S-WATER EMULSION COMPRISING A FATTY ALCOHOL, ONE
ALKYLETHER POLYOXYETHYLENE, UNE CIRE ET UN POLYSACCHARIDE  ALKYLETHER POLYOXYETHYLENE, A WAX AND A POLYSACCHARIDE
HYDROSOLUBLE La présente invention concerne une composition sous forme d'émulsion huile-dans-eau comprenant dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable :  The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
A) une phase aqueuse continue, et  A) a continuous aqueous phase, and
B) une phase huileuse dispersée dans ladite phase aqueuse et comprenant au moins une huile hydrocarbonée ;  B) an oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase and comprising at least one hydrocarbon oil;
C) au moins un mélange constitué de : C) at least one mixture consisting of:
i) au moins un tensioactif non-ionique choisi parmi les alcools gras comprenant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, et  i) at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and
ii) au moins deux alcools gras en C8-30 oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés, ii) at least two oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated C 8-30 fatty alcohols,
D) au moins une cire de point de fusion supérieur à 45°C comprenant un ou plusieurs composés esters en C4o-C7o et ne comprenant pas de composé ester en C20-C39, dans une quantité allant de 1 à 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, etD) at least one wax with a melting point of greater than 45 ° C comprising one or more C 4 o C 7 o ester compounds and not comprising a C 20 -C 39 ester compound, in an amount ranging from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and
E) au moins un polysaccharide hydrosoluble ; E) at least one water-soluble polysaccharide;
ladite composition ayant une viscosité mesurée à 25°C avec un viscosimètre Rheomat RM 180 à 200 s"1 à température ambiante au mobile 3 ou mobile 4 au bout de 10 min, allant de 1200 à 8000 mPa.s. said composition having a viscosity measured at 25 ° C. with a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer at 200 s -1 at ambient temperature at mobile 3 or mobile 4 after 10 min, ranging from 1200 to 8000 mPa.s.
Dans le domaine des produits cosmétiques de soin pour la peau notamment les produits déodorants et anti-transpirants, on peut définir différentes catégories de galéniques : aérosols, sticks, crèmes, gels, soft solid ou roll-on. In the field of cosmetic skin care products including deodorant and antiperspirant products, it is possible to define different categories of galenics: aerosols, sticks, creams, gels, soft solid or roll-on.
Les compositions « soft solid » (solide/mou) constituent une nouvelle catégorie de produits appréciée par les consommateurs pour leur efficacité et leurs qualités cosmétiques (facilité d'application, toucher sec et doux). Elles s'apparentent à des compositions solides qui se ramollissent sous l'effet d'une contrainte comme l'étalement sur la surface de la peau ou par exemple par extrusion à travers un dispositif à paroi ajourée (grille). Les compositions « soft solid » par leur texture fondante peuvent également être valorisées comme produit de soin des matières kératiniques humaines comme la peau ou les lèvres comme des produits de massage, des baumes ou pommades, des sticks pour le soin des lèvres. Elles ont été décrites notamment dans la demande WO2012/084522. En raison de leur texture anhydre, ces formulations peuvent paraître grasses, présentes sur la peau et peu fraîches. A la différence, les roll-on constituent une gamme de produits fluides et frais mais qui peuvent parfois être considérés comme collants et très lents à sécher. La demande WO2014/128060 décrit des compositions anti-transpirantes sous forme d'émulsions H/E à base de cire, d'un polysaccharide hydrosoluble et d'un système tensioactif comprenant un d'alcool gras spécifique et un alkylpolyglucoside. Cependant, de telles compositions laissent tout de même des traces blanches après application. II subsiste donc le besoin de réaliser des formulations cosmétiques « soft-solid » de soin pour la peau, notamment des produits déodorants et/ou anti-transpirants, alliant facilité d'application, toucher sec immédiat, doux, non mouillant et non-collant et qui sont efficaces dans l'application recherchée. Notamment, il existe le besoin pour des compositions cosmétiques « soft-solid » de soin pour la peau, notamment des produits déodorants et/ou anti-transpirants, qui minimisent la présence de traces blanches après application. The "soft solid" compositions are a new category of products appreciated by consumers for their effectiveness and their cosmetic qualities (ease of application, dry and soft touch). They are similar to solid compositions that soften under the effect of a stress such as spreading on the surface of the skin or for example by extrusion through a perforated wall device (grid). Compositions "soft solid" by their melting texture can also be valued as a care product of human keratin materials such as skin or lips as massage products, balms or ointments, sticks for the care of the lips. They have been described in particular in application WO2012 / 084522. Because of their anhydrous texture, these formulations may appear oily, present on the skin and not very fresh. In contrast, roll-on is a range of fluid and fresh products that can sometimes be considered sticky and very slow to dry. WO2014 / 128060 describes antiperspirant compositions in the form of wax-based W / O emulsions, a water-soluble polysaccharide and a surfactant system comprising a specific fatty alcohol and an alkylpolyglucoside. However, such compositions still leave white traces after application. It therefore remains the need to produce cosmetic formulations "soft-solid" care for the skin, including deodorant and / or antiperspirant products, combining ease of application, dry touch immediate, soft, non-wetting and non-sticky and which are effective in the desired application. In particular, there is the need for "soft-solid" cosmetic compositions for skin care, especially deodorant and / or antiperspirant products, which minimize the presence of white traces after application.
La demanderesse a maintenant découvert que cet objectif pouvait être atteint avec de nouvelles émulsions formant des compositions solides-mous (« soft-solid ») stables au stockage, présentant à la fois de bonnes propriétés cosmétiques : toucher doux et sensation de sec immédiate, fraîcheur non mouillante, absence de collant et toucher non gras, ainsi qu'une bonne efficacité dans l'application recherchée. Notamment, les compositions permettent de diminuer la présence de traces blanches après application. Cette découverte constitue la base de l'invention. The applicant has now discovered that this objective can be achieved with new emulsions forming solid-soft compositions ("soft-solid") stable storage, having both good cosmetic properties: soft touch and dry feeling immediate, freshness non-wetting, no stickiness and non-greasy touch, as well as a good efficiency in the desired application. In particular, the compositions make it possible to reduce the presence of white traces after application. This discovery is the basis of the invention.
La présente invention concerne donc une composition sous forme d'émulsion huile-dans- eau comprenant dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable : The present invention thus relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
A) une phase aqueuse continue, et A) a continuous aqueous phase, and
B) une phase huileuse dispersée dans ladite phase aqueuse et comprenant au moins une huile hydrocarbonée ; B) an oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase and comprising at least one hydrocarbon oil;
C) au moins un mélange constitué de : C) at least one mixture consisting of:
i) au moins un tensioactif non-ionique choisi parmi les alcools gras comprenant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, et  i) at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and
ii) au moins deux alcools gras en C8-30 oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés, D) au moins une cire de point de fusion supérieur à 45°C comprenant un ou plusieurs composés esters en C4o-C7o et ne comprenant pas de composé ester en C20-C39, dans une quantité allant de 1 à 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, etii) at least two oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated C 8-30 fatty alcohols, D) at least one wax with a melting point of greater than 45 ° C comprising one or more C 4 o C 7 o ester compounds and not comprising a C 20 -C 39 ester compound, in an amount ranging from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and
E) au moins un polysaccharide hydrosoluble ; E) at least one water-soluble polysaccharide;
ladite composition ayant une viscosité mesurée à 25°C avec un viscosimètre Rheomat RM 180 à 200 s"1 à température ambiante au mobile 3 ou mobile 4 au bout de 10 min, allant de 1200 à 8000 mPa.s. said composition having a viscosity measured at 25 ° C. with a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer at 200 s -1 at ambient temperature at mobile 3 or mobile 4 after 10 min, ranging from 1200 to 8000 mPa.s.
La présente invention concerne également un procédé cosmétique traitement et/ou de soin des matières kératiniques humaines caractérisé par le fait qu'il consiste à appliquer sur la surface de la matière kératinique une composition telle que définie précédemment. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process treatment and / or care of human keratin materials characterized in that it consists in applying to the surface of the keratin material a composition as defined above.
La présente invention concerne également un procédé cosmétique pour traiter la transpiration humaine et/ou les odeurs corporelles liées à la transpiration consistant à appliquer sur la surface d'une matière kératinique humaine une composition telle que définie précédemment comprenant au moins un actif déodorant et/ou un actif anti- transpirant. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating human perspiration and / or body odor related to perspiration comprising applying to the surface of a human keratin material a composition as defined above comprising at least one deodorant active agent and / or an antiperspirant active.
D'autres objets de l'invention apparaîtront dans la suite de la description. Other objects of the invention will appear in the following description.
Par "cosmétiquement acceptable", on entend compatible avec la peau et/ou ses phanères ou muqueuses qui présente une couleur, une odeur et un toucher agréables et qui ne génère pas d'inconforts inacceptables (picotements, tiraillements, rougeurs), susceptibles de détourner la consommatrice d'utiliser cette composition. By "cosmetically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its integuments or mucous membranes which has a pleasant color, smell and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), which can divert the consumer to use this composition.
Par « matières kératiniques humaines », on entend la peau (corps, visage, contour des yeux), cheveux, cils, sourcils, poils, ongles, lèvres et muqueuses. By "human keratin materials" is meant the skin (body, face, eye area), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, nails, lips and mucous membranes.
Par « agent anti-transpirant », on entend toute substance qui a pour effet de diminuer le flux de la sueur et/ou de diminuer la sensation d'humidité liée à la sueur humaine et/ou de masquer la sueur humaine. By "antiperspirant agent" is meant any substance which has the effect of reducing the flow of sweat and / or of reducing the sensation of moisture related to human sweat and / or of masking human sweat.
On appelle « actif déodorant », toute substance capable de masquer, absorber, améliorer et/ou réduire l'odeur désagréable résultant de la décomposition de la sueur humaine par des bactéries. Par « alcool gras comprenant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone », on entend tout alcool non alcoxylé comprenant une chaîne hydrocarbonée, de préférence saturée et linéaire, en particulier constituée d'une chaîne alkyle linéaire, ladite chaîne comprenant entre 8 et 30 atomes de carbone et une fonction hydroxyle. Deodorant active is any substance capable of masking, absorbing, improving and / or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria. "Fatty alcohol comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms" means any non-alkoxylated alcohol comprising a hydrocarbon chain, preferably saturated and linear, in particular consisting of a linear alkyl chain, said chain comprising between 8 and 30 carbon atoms. carbon and a hydroxyl function.
Par « alcool gras en C8-30 oxyéthyléné et/ou oxypropyléné », on entend tout alcool comprenant : By "oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated C8-30 fatty alcohol" is meant any alcohol comprising:
- une chaîne hydrocarbonée, de préférence saturée et linéaire, en particulier constituée d'une chaîne alkyle linéaire, ladite chaîne comprenant entre 8 et 30 atomes de carbone, - des unités oxyde d'éthylène et/ou oxyde de propylène, et  a hydrocarbon chain, preferably saturated and linear, in particular consisting of a linear alkyl chain, said chain comprising between 8 and 30 carbon atoms, ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units, and
- une fonction hydroxyle.  a hydroxyl function.
Par « chaîne hydrocarbonée », on entend un groupe organique constitué majoritairement d'atomes d'hydrogène et d'atomes de carbone. By "hydrocarbon chain" is meant an organic group consisting predominantly of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.
Par « composé ester », on entend toute molécule organique comprenant une chaîne hydrocarbonée linéaire ou ramifiée, saturée ou insaturée, comprenant au moins une fonction ester de formule -COOR où R représente un radical hydrocarboné en particulier un radical alkyle linéaire et saturé. The term "ester compound" is intended to mean any organic molecule comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least one ester function of formula -COOR where R represents a hydrocarbon radical, in particular a linear and saturated alkyl radical.
Par « cire ne comprenant pas de composé ester en C20-C39 », on entend toute cire contenant moins de 1 % en poids de composé ester en C20-C39, de préférence moins de 0,5% en poids par rapport au poids de la cire, voire exempte de composé ester en C2o- The term "wax not comprising a C 20 -C 39 ester compound" means any wax containing less than 1% by weight of C 20 -C 39 ester compound, preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the weight wax, or even free of ester compound in C 2 o-
POINT DE FUSION FUSION POINT
Au sens de l'invention, la température de fusion correspond à la température du pic le plus endothermique observé en analyse thermique (DSC) telle que décrite dans la norme ISO 1 1357-3 ; 1999. Le point de fusion du tensio-actif ou de la cire peut être mesuré à l'aide d'un calorimètre à balayage différentiel (DSC), par exemple le calorimètre vendu sous la dénomination « MDSC 2920 » par la société TA Instruments. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 1 1357-3 standard; 1999. The melting point of the surfactant or wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments.
Le protocole de mesure est le suivant : Un échantillon de 5 mg de cire disposé dans un creuset est soumis à une première montée en température allant de -20°C à 100°C, à la vitesse de chauffe de 10°C/minute, puis est refroidi de 100°C à -20°C à une vitesse de refroidissement de 10°C/minute et enfin soumis à une deuxième montée en température allant de -20°C à 100°C à une vitesse de chauffe de 5°C/minute. Pendant la deuxième montée en température, on mesure la variation de la différence de puissance absorbée par le creuset vide et par le creuset contenant l'échantillon de cire en fonction de la température. Le point de fusion du composé est la valeur de la température correspondant au sommet du pic de la courbe représentant la variation de la différence de puissance absorbée en fonction de la température. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C. to 100 ° C., at the heating rate of 10 ° C./min, and is then cooled from 100 ° C. to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
VISCOSITE VISCOSITY
Les compositions de l'invention présentent une viscosité mesurée à 25°C avec un viscosimètre Rheomat RM 180 à 200 s"1 à température ambiante au mobile 3 ou au mobile 4 au bout de 10 min, comprise entre 1200 et 8000 mPa.s. The compositions of the invention have a viscosity measured at 25 ° C. with a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer at 200 s -1 at ambient temperature at the mobile 3 or at the mobile 4 after 10 min, between 1200 and 8000 mPa.s.
La mesure de la viscosité du produit est effectuée avec un viscosimètre Rheomat RM 180 selon la méthode CID-012-02. The measurement of the viscosity of the product is carried out with a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer according to the CID-012-02 method.
On effectue la mesure du couple nécessaire pour vaincre la résistance du fluide dont on veut déterminer la viscosité à l'aide d'un élément immergé (mobile ou corps de mesure) tournant à une vitesse choisie et constante La mesure est effectuée avec un ensemble (produit à analyser - godet - corps de mesure) à 25°C. Le mobile utilisé pour faire les mesures est le mobile 3 ou le mobile 4 selon la viscosité du produit. The necessary torque is measured to overcome the resistance of the fluid whose viscosity is to be determined by means of a submerged element (moving or measuring body) rotating at a selected and constant speed. The measurement is carried out with a set (FIG. product to be analyzed - cup - measuring body) at 25 ° C. The mobile used to make the measurements is mobile 3 or mobile 4 according to the viscosity of the product.
Le volume de substance introduit dans le godet du mobile 3 ou du mobile 4 est de 25mL. La mesure est effectuée au bout de 10 minutes. The volume of substance introduced into the cup of mobile 3 or mobile 4 is 25 mL. The measurement is made after 10 minutes.
Le support du système et le corps de mesure sélectionné sont placés dans l'appareil pour la mesure. Alcools gras comprenant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone La composition cosmétique selon l'invention comprend un ou plusieurs alcools gras comprenant 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, qui peuvent être liquides à 25°C et à 1 atmosphère, ou bien peuvent être solides. Ils correspondent à la formule R-OH dans laquelle R représente un radical hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, comportant 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, comprenant éventuellement un ou plusieurs groupes OH. The system support and the selected measuring body are placed in the instrument for measurement. Fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which can be liquid at 25 ° C. and at 1 atmosphere, or they can be solid. They correspond to the formula R-OH in which R represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more OH groups.
De préférence, R comprend de 10 à 22 atomes de carbone, voire de 12 à 20 atomes de carbone. Preferably, R comprises from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
De préférence, R est un radical saturé, linéaire ou ramifié.  Preferably, R is a saturated, linear or branched radical.
Les alcools gras saturés liquides sont de préférence ramifiés. Ils peuvent éventuellement comprendre, dans leur structure, au moins un cycle aromatique ou non aromatique. Ils sont de préférence acycliques. Parmi les alcools gras saturés liquides, on peut citer l'octyldodécanol, l'alcool isostéarylique et le 2-hexyldécanol. The liquid saturated fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic cycle. They are preferably acyclic. Among the liquid saturated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol.
Les alcools gras liquides insaturés présentent, dans leur structure, au moins une double ou triple liaison et de préférence une ou plusieurs doubles liaisons. Lorsque plusieurs doubles liaisons sont présentes, il y a de préférence 2 ou 3 d'entre elles et elles peuvent être conjuguées ou non conjuguées. Ces alcools gras insaturés peuvent être linéaires ou ramifiés. Ils peuvent éventuellement comprendre, dans leur structure, au moins un cycle aromatique ou non aromatique. Ils sont de préférence acycliques. Parmi les alcools gras insaturés liquides, on peut citer l'alcool oléylique, l'alcool linoléylique, l'alcool linolénylique et l'alcool undécylénylique.  The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols have, in their structure, at least one double or triple bond and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them and they can be conjugated or unconjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They may optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic cycle. They are preferably acyclic. Among the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols, mention may be made of oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol.
Les alcools gras solides qui peuvent être utilisés sont de préférence choisis parmi les alcools saturés linéaires contenant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone. On peut citer l'alcool myristylique, l'alcool cétylique, l'alcool stéarylique et leur mélange, l'alcool cétylstéarylique. The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from linear saturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made of myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture, cetylstearyl alcohol.
De préférence, la composition comprend un ou plusieurs alcools gras linéaires saturés, solides, comprenant 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, choisis notamment parmi l'alcool myristylique, l'alcool cétylique, l'alcool arachidylique, l'alcool béhénylique, l'alcool stéarylique et l'alcool cétylstéarylique. De préférence, la composition selon l'invention comprend le ou les alcools gras en une quantité allant de 0,5% à 10% en poids, de préférence de 1 % à 8% en poids, préférentiellement de 1 ,2% à 8% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Parmi les alcools gras comprenant 8 à 30 atomes de carbone conformes à l'invention, on peut citer : Preferably, the composition comprises one or more saturated, solid linear fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, chosen in particular from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, alcohol and the like. stearyl and cetylstearyl alcohol. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the fatty alcohol or alcohols in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 1.2% to 8% by weight. by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Among the fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of:
- l'alcool cétylique comme les produits commerciaux Cetanol de la société KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO CO., LTD. et ALFOL 16 ALCOHOL® de la société SASOL GERMANY GMBH (HAMBURG),  cetyl alcohol, such as Cetanol commercial products from Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd .; and ALFOL 16 ALCOHOL® from SASOL GERMANY GMBH (HAMBURG),
- l'alcool stéarylique comme le produit commercial KALCOL 80-98® de KAO, stearyl alcohol, such as the commercial product KALCOL 80-98® from KAO,
- l'alcool arachidylique comme les produits commerciaux HAINOL 20SS® de la société KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO CO. LTD et NACOL 20-95® de la société SASOL GERMANY GMBH (HAMBURG),  arachidyl alcohol, for instance the commercial products Hainol 20SS® from the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co. LTD and NACOL 20-95® from SASOL GERMANY GMBH (HAMBURG),
- l'alcool béhénylique comme les produits commerciaux NACOL 22-97® et NACOL 22- 98® de la société SASOL GERMANY GMBH (HAMBURG),  behenyl alcohol such as the commercial products NACOL 22-97® and NACOL 22-98® from the company SASOL GERMANY GMBH (HAMBURG),
- un alcool cétylstéarylique (mélange d'alcool cétylique et d'alcool stéarylique ; nom INCI : « cetearyl alcohol ») comme le mélange comprenant 70% en poids d'alcool(s) gras en Ci8, 30% en poids d'alcool(s) gras Ci6 tel le produit commercial NAFOL 1618 S® (SASOL GERMANY GMBH HAMBURG), - a cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol; INCI name: "cetearyl alcohol") as the mixture comprising 70% by weight of alcohol (s) fatty Cl 8, 30% by weight alcohol (s) fat Ci 6 such as the commercial product NAFOL 1618 S® (SASOL GERMANY GMBH HAMBURG),
- et leurs mélanges. - and their mixtures.
On utilisera plus particulièrement l'alcool béhénylique, l'alcool arachidylique, l'acide stéarylique, un alcool cétylstéarylique ou leurs mélanges. Alcool gras en C8-30 oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés Behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, stearyl acid, a cetylstearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof will be used more particularly. C8-30 fatty alcohol oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated
La composition cosmétique selon l'invention comprend également au moins deux alcools gras comprenant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés. The cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises at least two fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated.
De préférence, les alcools gras en C8-C30 oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés, peuvent comporter de 1 à 150 motifs oxyéthylène et/ou oxypropylène. De préférence, ils comportent de 2 à 50 motifs oxyéthylène et/ou oxypropylène, de préférence de 2 à 25 motifs oxyéthylène et/ou oxypropylène. Preferably, the oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated C 8 -C 30 fatty alcohols may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units. Preferably, they comprise from 2 to 50 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, preferably from 2 to 25 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units.
De préférence, on utilisera des alcools gras en C8-C30 oxyéthylénés. Les alcools gras oxyéthylénés correspondent à la formule R-[0-CH2-CH2]n-OH dans laquelle R représente un radical hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, comportant 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, et n est un entier variant de 1 à 150, de préférence de 2 à 100, plus préférentiellement de 2 à 50, de préférence de 2 à 25. Preferably, oxyethylenated C 8 -C 30 fatty alcohols will be used. The oxyethylenated fatty alcohols correspond to the formula R- [O-CH 2 -CH 2 ] n -OH in which R represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and n is an integer ranging from 1 to 150, preferably from 2 to 100, more preferably from 2 to 50, preferably from 2 to 25.
De préférence, R comprend de 10 à 22 atomes de carbone, voire de 12 à 20 atomes de carbone. Preferably, R comprises from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
De préférence, R est un radical saturé, linéaire ou ramifié.  Preferably, R is a saturated, linear or branched radical.
Parmi les alcools gras en C8-30 oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés, on peut citer : Among the oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated C 8-30 fatty alcohols, mention may be made of:
- l'alcool stéarylique éthoxylé à 2 motifs oxyéthylène (nom CTFA "Steareth-2"),  ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-2"),
- l'alcool laurique éthoxylé à 2 motifs oxyéthylène (nom CTFA "Laureth-2"), ethoxylated lauryl alcohol with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Laureth-2"),
- l'alcool cétéarylique éthoxylé à 3 motifs oxyéthylène (nom CTFA "Ceteareth-3"),  ethoxylated ethoxylated alcohol containing 3 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Ceteareth-3"),
- l'alcool stéarylique éthoxylé à 20 motifs oxyéthylène (nom CTFA "Steareth-20") comme le BRU 78 commercialisé par la société UNIQEMA,  ethoxylated stearyl alcohol containing 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-20"), such as BRU 78 sold by the company UNIQEMA,
- l'alcool cétéarylique éthoxylé à 30 motifs oxyéthylène (nom CTFA "Ceteareth-30"), - le mélange d'alcools gras en C12-C15 comportant 7 motifs oxyéthylène (nom CTFA "C12-15 Pareth-7") comme celui commercialisé sous la dénomination NEODOL 25-7® par SHELL CHEMICALS,  ethoxylated ethoxylated alcohol containing 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30"), - the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "C12-15 Pareth-7"), such as the one marketed under the name NEODOL 25-7® by SHELL CHEMICALS,
- l'alcool béhénylique éthoxylé à 10 motifs oxyéthylène (nom CTFA "Beheneth-10"), comme le produit commercial EUMULGIN BA 10 de COGNIS, ou  ethoxylated 10-oxyethylene ethylene behenyl alcohol (CTFA name "Beheneth-10"), such as the EUMULGIN BA 10 commercial product from COGNIS, or
- leurs mélanges. - their mixtures.
De préférence, on utilise au moins deux alcools gras oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés, qui comprennent la même chaîne hydrocarbonée. Preferably, at least two oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene fatty alcohols, which comprise the same hydrocarbon chain, are used.
De préférence, on utilise un mélange de deux alcools gras oxyéthylénés de formule R-[0- CH2-CH2]n-OH dans laquelle R représente le même radical hydrocarboné comportant 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, et n varie de 2 à 10 pour un premier alcool gras oxyéthyléné, et de 12 à 25 pour le second alcool gras oxyéthyléné. Preferably, a mixture of two oxyethylenated fatty alcohols of formula R- [O-CH 2 -CH 2 ] n -OH in which R represents the same hydrocarbon radical containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and n varies from 2 to 10 for a first oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, and 12 to 25 for the second oxyethylenated fatty alcohol.
De préférence, on utilise un mélange d'alcools stéaryliques éthoxylés. De préférence, on utilise un mélange d'alcool stéarylique éthoxylé à 2 motifs oxyéthylène ("Steareth-2") et d'alcool stéarylique éthoxylé à 20 motifs oxyéthylène ("Steareth-20"). Preferably, a mixture of ethoxylated stearyl alcohols is used. Preferably, a mixture of ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylene units ("Steareth-2") and stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 20 oxyethylene units ("Steareth-20") is used.
De préférence, la composition selon l'invention comprend les alcools gras en C8-30 oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés en une quantité allant de 0,5% à 10% en poids, de préférence de 1 % à 8% en poids, préférentiellement de 1 ,2% à 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. CIRES Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylated C 8-30 fatty alcohols in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 1, 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. CIRES
La cire considérée dans le cadre de la présente invention est d'une manière générale un composé lipophile, solide à température ambiante (25°C), à changement d'état solide/liquide réversible, ayant un point de fusion supérieur ou égal à 45°C pouvant aller jusqu'à 200°C et notamment jusqu'à 120°C. The wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C. ° C up to 200 ° C and especially up to 120 ° C.
Les cires susceptibles d'être utilisées dans les compositions selon l'invention sont choisies parmi les cires de point de fusion supérieur à 45°C comprenant un ou plusieurs composés esters en C4o-C7o et ne comprenant pas de composé ester en C20-C39. The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes having a melting point of greater than 45 ° C. and comprising one or more C 4 o C 7 ester compounds and not comprising a C 20 -7 ester compound. C39.
Les cires selon l'invention peuvent utilisées également sous forme de mélange de cires. The waxes according to the invention can also be used in the form of a mixture of waxes.
Le teneur en ester comprenant de 40 à 70 atomes de carbone varie de préférence de 20 à 100% en poids et de préférence de 20 à 90% en poids par rapport au poids total en cire(s). The ester content comprising from 40 to 70 carbon atoms preferably ranges from 20 to 100% by weight and preferably from 20 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of wax (es).
De préférence, on utilisera une cire choisie parmi la cire de Candellila, la cire de son de riz, la cire d'abeille, la cire de tournesol et leurs mélanges. Preferably, a wax selected from Candelilla wax, rice bran wax, beeswax, sunflower wax and mixtures thereof will be used.
On utilisera plus particulièrement la cire de Candellila et/ou la cire d'abeille. Candellila wax and / or beeswax will be used more particularly.
La composition selon l'invention peut comprendre une teneur en cire allant de préférence de 0,5% à 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence allant de 0,8 à 8% en poids. The composition according to the invention may comprise a wax content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.8 to 8% by weight.
POLYSACCHARIDES HYDROSOLUBLES WATER-SOLUBLE POLYSACCHARIDES
Par « polysaccharide » on entend tout polymère constitué de plusieurs oses (ou monosaccharides) ayant pour formule générale : By "polysaccharide" is meant any polymer consisting of several monosaccharides (or monosaccharides) having the general formula:
-[Cx(H20)y)]n- (où y est généralement x - 1 ) et liés entre eux par des liaisons O-osidiques. - [C x (H 2 0) y )] n- (where y is usually x - 1) and linked together by O-osidic bonds.
Les polysaccharides hydrosolubles utilisables dans la présente invention sont choisis notamment les amidons, les gellanes, la gomme de scléroglucane, la gomme de guar, le konjac, l'agar-agar, les celluloses comme l'hydroxyethylcellulose, l'hydroxypropylcellulose, et leurs mélanges. De façon préférentielle, les amidons sont utilisés. The water-soluble polysaccharides that can be used in the present invention are chosen in particular starches, gellanes, scleroglucan gum, guar gum, konjac, agar-agar, celluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, and mixtures thereof. . Preferably, the starches are used.
Par hydrosoluble, on entend partiellement ou totalement soluble dans l'eau pour donner une solution gélifiée ou épaissie à une concentration de 1 % en matière active dans l'eau, après mise en œuvre à froid ou à chaud. The term "water-soluble" means partially or totally soluble in water to give a gelled or thickened solution at a concentration of 1% of active ingredient in water, after cold or hot processing.
Les amidons utilisables dans la présente invention sont plus particulièrement des macromolécules sous forme de polymères constitués de motifs élémentaires qui sont des unités anhydroglucose. Le nombre de ces motifs et leur assemblage permettent de distinguer l'amylose (polymère linéaire) et l'amylopectine (polymère ramifié). Les proportions relatives d'amylose et d'amylopectine, ainsi que leur degré de polymérisation, varient en fonction de l'origine botanique des amidons. Le rapport en poids amylose/amylopectine peut varier de 30/70 (maïs) à 16/84 (riz). Le poids moléculaire de l'amylose de préférence est jusqu'à 1 million en poids et celui de l'amylopectine est de préférence de 100 à 500 millions en poids. The starches that can be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary units which are anhydroglucose units. The number of these motifs and their assembly make it possible to distinguish between amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, vary according to the botanical origin of the starches. The amylose / amylopectin weight ratio can range from 30/70 (corn) to 16/84 (rice). The molecular weight of the amylose is preferably up to 1 million by weight and that of the amylopectin is preferably from 100 to 500 million by weight.
Les molécules d'amidons utilisés dans la présente invention peuvent être non modifiées ou modifiées par voie chimique ou physique. Ils peuvent avoir comme origine botanique les céréales ou encore les tubercules. Ainsi, les amidons naturels peuvent être choisis parmi les amidons de maïs, de riz, de tapioca, de manioc, d'orge, de pomme de terre, de blé, de sorgho, palmier, de pois. The starch molecules used in the present invention may be unmodified or chemically or physically modified. They can have as botanical origin the cereals or the tubers. Thus, natural starches can be selected from starches of maize, rice, tapioca, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, palm, pea.
Parmi les amidons non modifiés, on peut citer les amidons de maïs non modifiés (nom INCI : ZEA MAYS STARCH) comme les produits vendus sous les noms commerciaux Farmal CS® en particulier le produit commercial Farmal CS 3650® par la société Corn Products International. Unmodified starches include unmodified corn starches (INCI name: ZEA MAYS STARCH) such as the products sold under the trade names Farmal CS®, in particular the commercial product Farmal CS 3650® by Corn Products International.
On peut citer également les amidons de riz non modifiés (nom INCI : ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) STARCH) comme le produit commercial REMY DR I® vendu par la société BENEO-REMY. Mention may also be made of unmodified rice starches (INCI name: ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) STARCH) such as the commercial product REMY DR I® sold by the company BENEO-REMY.
Selon une forme particulière de l'invention, les amidons utilisés sont modifiés par réticulation par des agents fonctionnels capables de réagir avec les groupes hydroxyle des molécules d'amidon qui vont ainsi être liées entre elles (par exemple avec des groupes glyceryl et/ou phosphate). On peut notamment obtenir par réticulation avec des composés phosphorés des phosphates de monoamidon (du type Am-0-PO-(OX)2), des phosphates de diamidon (du type Am-0-PO-(OX)-0-Am) ou même de triamidon (du type Am-0-PO- (0-Am)2) ou leurs mélanges. According to one particular form of the invention, the starches used are modified by crosslinking with functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules which will thus be bonded together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups. ). In particular, it is possible to obtain, by means of crosslinking with phosphorus compounds, mono-starch phosphates (of the Am-0-PO- (OX) 2 type ), diamidon phosphates (of the type A m -O-PO- (OX) -O-A m ) or even triamidon (of the type A m -O-PO- (0-A m ) 2 ) or mixtures thereof.
X désigne notamment les métaux alcalins (par exemple sodium ou potassium), les métaux alcalinoterreux (par exemple calcium, magnésium), les sels d'ammoniaque, les sels d'amines comme ceux de la monoéthanolamine, la diéthanolamine, la triéthanolamine, l'amino-3 propanediol-1 ,2, les sels ammoniums issus des aminoacides basiques tels que la lysine, l'arginine, la sarcosine, l'ornithine, la citrulline. X denotes in particular alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline earth metals (for example calcium, magnesium), ammonium salts, amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, amino-3-propanediol-1,2, ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline.
Les composés phosphorés peuvent être par exemple du tripolyphosphate de sodium, de l'orthophosphate de sodium, de l'oxychlorure de phosphore ou du trimétaphosphate de sodium. The phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.
On utilisera préférentiellement des phosphates de diamidon ou des composés riches en phosphate de diamidon en particulier les hydroxypropyl éthers de phosphate de diamidon ayant pour nom INCI : Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate comme les produits vendus sous les noms commerciaux FARINEX VA70 C ou FARMAL MS 689® de la société AVEBE Stadex ; les produits vendus sous les noms commerciaux STRUCTURE BTC®, STRUCTURE HVS®, STRUCTURE XL® ou STRUCTURE ZEA® de NATIONAL STARCH (phosphate de diamidon de maïs). De manière préférentielle, l'amidon sera choisi parmi les amidons de maïs non modifiés, les amidons de riz non modifiés, les phosphates de diamidon de maïs et leurs mélanges. De manière encore plus préférentielle, l'amidon sera choisi parmi les phosphates de diamidon de maïs. Selon l'invention, le ou les polysaccharides hydrosolubles peuvent représenter de préférence de 0,25 % à 6% en poids et plus particulièrement de 0,5 à 4% en poids de matière active par rapport au poids total de la composition finale. Preferred diamidon phosphates or compounds rich in diamidon phosphate, especially the diamidon phosphate hydroxypropyl ethers INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate as the products sold under the trade names FARINEX VA70 C or FARMAL MS 689® of the company AVEBE Stadex; products sold under the trade names STRUCTURE BTC®, STRUCTURE HVS®, STRUCTURE XL® or STRUCTURE ZEA® by NATIONAL STARCH (cornstarch phosphate). Preferably, the starch will be selected from unmodified corn starches, unmodified rice starches, cornstarch phosphates and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the starch will be selected from cornstarch phosphates. According to the invention, the water-soluble polysaccharide or polysaccharides may preferably represent from 0.25% to 6% by weight and more particularly from 0.5% to 4% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the final composition.
PHASE AQUEUSE On entend par phase aqueuse, une phase comprenant de l'eau et en général toute molécule à l'état dissous dans l'eau dans la composition. AQUEOUS PHASE By aqueous phase is meant a phase comprising water and in general any molecule dissolved in water in the composition.
La phase aqueuse desdites compositions contient de l'eau et en général d'autres solvants solubles ou miscibles dans l'eau. Les solvants solubles ou miscibles dans l'eau comprennent les mono alcools à chaîne courte par exemple en C1 -C4 comme l'éthanol, l'isopropanol ; les diols ou les polyols comme l'éthylèneglycol, le 1 ,2-propylèneglycol, le 1 ,3-butylène glycol, l'hexylèneglycol, le caprylyl glycol (ou 1 ,2-octanediol), le diéthylèneglycol, le dipropylène glycol, le 2-éthoxyéthanol, le diéthylène glycol monométhyléther, le triéthylène glycol monométhyléther et le sorbitol. On utilisera plus particulièrement le propylèneglycol, la glycérine et le propane 1 ,3 diol. The aqueous phase of said compositions contains water and in general other solvents which are soluble or miscible with water. Solvents that are soluble or miscible in water include short-chain monohydric alcohols, for example C 1 -C 4 alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol (or 1,2-octanediol), diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether and sorbitol. More particularly, propylene glycol, glycerine and propane 1,3 diol will be used.
La concentration de la phase aqueuse varie de préférence de 1 à 90% en poids, de préférence de 30 à 90% en poids, de préférence de 40% à 90% en poids, en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. The concentration of the aqueous phase preferably ranges from 1 to 90% by weight, preferably from 30 to 90% by weight, preferably from 40% to 90% by weight, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
PHASE HUILEUSE OIL PHASE
Les compositions selon l'invention contiennent au moins une phase liquide organique non-miscible dans l'eau appelée phase huileuse. Celle-ci comprend en général un ou plusieurs composés hydrophobes qui rendent ladite phase non-miscible dans l'eau. Ladite phase est liquide (en l'absence d'agent structurant) à température ambiante (20-25°C). The compositions according to the invention contain at least one immiscible organic liquid phase in water called the oily phase. This generally comprises one or more hydrophobic compounds which render said phase immiscible in water. Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.).
De manière préférentielle, la phase organique liquide organique non-miscible dans l'eau conforme à l'invention comprend généralement au moins une huile hydrocarbonée volatile ou non-volatile et éventuellement au moins une huile siliconée volatile ou non volatile. Preferably, the water-immiscible organic liquid organic phase in accordance with the invention generally comprises at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and optionally at least one volatile or non-volatile silicone oil.
Par « huile », on entend un corps gras liquide à température ambiante (25 °C) et pression atmosphérique (760mm de Hg soit 105 Pa). L'huile peut être volatile ou non volatile. The term "oil" means a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 10 5 Pa). The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.
Par « huile volatile », on entend au sens de l'invention une huile susceptible de s'évaporer au contact de la peau ou de la fibre kératinique en moins d'une heure, à température ambiante et pression atmosphérique. Les huiles volatiles de l'invention sont des huiles cosmétiques volatiles, liquides à température ambiante, ayant une pression de vapeur non nulle, à température ambiante et pression atmosphérique, allant en particulier de 0,13 Pa à 40 000 Pa (10"3 à 300 mm de Hg), en particulier allant de 1 ,3 Pa à 13 000 Pa (0,01 à 100 mm de Hg), et plus particulièrement allant de 1 ,3 Pa à 1300 Pa (0,01 à 1 0 mm de Hg). For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
Par « huile non volatile » , on entend une huile restant sur la peau ou la fibre kératinique à température ambiante et pression atmosphérique au moins plusieurs heures et ayant notamment une pression de vapeur inférieure à 10~3 mm de Hg (0, 1 3 Pa). By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or the keratinous fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). ).
Les huiles conformes à l'invention sont choisies de préférence parmi toutes les huiles cosmétiquement acceptables, notamment les huiles minérales, animales, végétales, synthétiques notamment les huiles hydrocarbonées ou les huiles siliconées ou leurs mélanges. The oils in accordance with the invention are preferably chosen from all cosmetically acceptable oils, in particular mineral, animal, plant and synthetic oils, in particular hydrocarbon oils or silicone oils or mixtures thereof.
Par « huile hydrocarbonée », on entend une huile comportant principalement des atomes de carbone et d'hydrogène et éventuellement une ou plusieurs fonctions choisies parmi les fonctions hydroxyle, ester, éther, carboxylique. Généralement, l'huile présente une viscosité de 0,5 à 100 000 mPa.s, de préférence de 50 à 50 000 mPa.s et de préférence encore de 1 00 à 30 000 mPa.s. By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functions selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of from 0.5 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably from 50 to 50,000 mPa.s and more preferably from 100 to 30,000 mPa.s.
Par « huile siliconée », on entend une huile comportant dans sa structure des atomes de carbone et au moins un atome de silicium. By "silicone oil" is meant an oil comprising in its structure carbon atoms and at least one silicon atom.
A titre d'exemple d'huiles hydrocarbonées volatiles utilisables dans l'invention, on peut citer : As examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:
les huiles hydrocarbonées volatiles choisies parmi les huiles hydrocarbonées ayant de 8 à 1 6 atomes de carbones, et notamment les isoalcanes en C8-Ci6 d'origine pétrolière (appelées aussi isoparaffines) comme l'isododécane (encore appelé 2,2,4,4,6- pentaméthylheptane), l'isodécane, l'isohexadécane, et par exemple les huiles vendues sous les noms commerciaux d'Isopars ou de Permetyls, les esters ramifiés en C8-C16, le néopentanoate d'iso-hexyle, et leurs mélanges. D'autres huiles hydrocarbonées volatiles comme les distillais de pétrole, notamment ceux vendus sous la dénomination Shell Soit par la société SHELL, peuvent aussi être utilisées ; les alcanes linéaires volatils comme ceux décrits dans la demande de brevet de la société Cognis DE10 2008 01 2 457. A titre d'exemple d'huile hydrocarbonée non volatile utilisable dans l'invention, on peut citer : les huiles hydrocarbonées végétales telles que les triglycérides liquides d'acides gras de 4 à 24 atomes de carbone comme les triglycérides des acides heptanoïque ou octanoïque ou encore les huiles les huiles de germe de blé, d'olive, l'huile d'amande douce, de palme, de colza, de coton, de luzerne, de pavot, de potimarron, de courge, de cassis, d'onagre, de millet, d'orge, de quinoa, de seigle, de carthame, de bancoulier, de passiflore, de rosier muscat, de tournesol, de maïs, de soja, de courge, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, de noisette, d'abricot, de macadamia, de ricin, d'avocat, les triglycérides des acides caprylique/caprique comme ceux vendus par la société Stearineries Dubois ou ceux vendus sous les dénominations Miglyol 810, 812 et 818 par la société Dynamit Nobel, l'huile de jojoba, de beurre de karité ; volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 1 6 carbon atoms, and especially the C 8 -C isoalkanes 6 of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4 , 4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or permetyls, branched esters C 8 -C 16 , isohexyl neopentanoate , and their mixtures. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell or by Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of Cognis DE10 2008 01 2 457. By way of example of a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 24 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or oils oils of wheat germ, olive, sweet almond oil , palm, colza, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower , musk rose, sunflower, maize, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter;
les éthers de synthèse ayant de 10 à 40 atomes de carbone comme le diméthyléther;  synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dimethyl ether;
les esters de synthèse notamment d'acides gras comme les huiles de formule RiCOORg dans laquelle Ri représente le reste d'un acide gras supérieur linéaire ou ramifié comportant de 1 à 40 atomes de carbone et R2 représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée notamment ramifiée contenant de 1 à 40 atomes de carbone avec Ri + R2 > 10 comme par exemple l'huile de Purcellin (octanoate de cétostéaryle), l'isononanoate d'isononyle, le myristate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'isopropyle, le benzoate d'alcool en C12 à C15, le laurate d'hexyle, l'adipate de diisopropyle, l'isononanoate d'isononyle, le palmitate d'éthyl 2-hexyle, le stéarate d'octyl 2-dodécyle, l'érucate d'octyl 2-dodécyle, l'isostéarate d'isostéaryle, le tridecyl trimellitate ; les octanoates, décanoates ou ricinoléates d'alcools ou de polyalcools comme le dioctanoate de propylène glycol ; les esters hydroxylés comme l'isostéaryl lactate, l'octyl hydroxy stéarate, l'hydroxy stéarate d'octyl dodécyle, le diisostéaryl malate, le citrate de triisocétyle, des heptanoates, octanoates, décanoates d'alcools gras ; des esters de polyol comme le dioctanoate de propylène glycol, le diheptanoate de néopentyl glycol, le diisononanoate de diéthylène glycol ; et les esters du pentaérythritol comme le tétra-isostéarate de pentaérythrytyle .synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formula RiCOORg in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing 1 at 40 carbon atoms with R 1 + R 2 > 10 such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alcohol benzoate C1 2-C15, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl octyl erucate 2 dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxy stearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate.
- les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés, d'origine minérale ou synthétique tels que les huiles de paraffine et leurs dérivés, la vaseline, les polydécènes, les polybutènes, le polyisobutène hydrogéné tel que le Parléam, le squalane ; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane;
- des alcools gras liquides à température ambiante à chaîne carbonée ramifiée et/ou insaturée ayant de 12 à 26 atomes de carbone comme l'octyl dodécanol, l'alcool isostéarylique, le 2-butyloctanol, le 2-hexyl décanol, le 2-undécyl pentadécanol, l'alcool oléique ;  branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol and 2-undecyl; pentadecanol, oleic alcohol;
- les acides gras supérieurs tels que l'acide oléique, l'acide linoléique, l'acide linolénique ;higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;
- les carbonates ; - les acétates ; ou - carbonates; - acetates; or
- les citrates.  - citrates.
Parmi les silicones volatiles, on peut citer les huiles de silicones linéaires ou cycliques volatiles, notamment celles ayant une viscosité < 8 centistokes (8 10~6 m2/s), et ayant notamment de 2 à 7 atomes de silicium, ces silicones comportant éventuellement des groupes alkyle ou alkoxy ayant de 1 à 10 atomes de carbone. Comme huile de silicone volatile utilisable dans l'invention, on peut citer notamment l'octaméthyl cyclotétrasiloxane, le décaméthyl cyclopentasiloxane, le dodécaméthyl cyclohexasiloxane, l'heptaméthyl hexyltrisiloxane, l'heptaméthyloctyl trisiloxane, l'hexaméthyl disiloxane, l'octaméthyl trisiloxane, le décaméthyl tétrasiloxane, le dodécaméthyl pentasiloxane et leurs mélanges. Among the volatile silicones, mention may be made of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity <8 centistokes (8 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones comprising optionally alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
On peut également citer les huiles linéaires alkyltrisiloxanes volatiles de formule généraleIt is also possible to mention linear volatile alkyltrisiloxane oils of general formula
(I) : (I):
où R représente un groupe alkyle comprenant de 2 à 4 atomes de carbone et dont un ou plusieurs atomes d'hydrogène peuvent être substitués par un atome de fluor ou de chlore. where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
A titre d'exemple d'huiles siliconées non volatiles, on peut citer les polydiméthylsiloxanes (PDMS) non volatiles, linéaires ou cycliques ; les polydiméthylsiloxanes comportant des groupements alkyle, alcoxy ou phényle, pendant ou en bout de chaîne siliconée, groupements ayant de 2 à 24 atomes de carbone ; les silicones phénylées comme les phényl triméthicones, les phényl diméthicones, les phényl triméthylsiloxy diphényl siloxanes, les diphényl diméthicones, les diphényl méthyldiphényl trisiloxanes, les 2- phényl éthyl triméthyl-siloxysilicates, et leurs mélanges. On utilisera plus particulièrement un polydiméthylsiloxane (PDMS) non volatile linéaire. By way of example of non-volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, linear non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) will be used.
De préférence, la phase huileuse comprend au moins une huile hydrocarbonée non volatile et éventuellement au moins une huile siliconé non volatile. Preferably, the oily phase comprises at least one nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil and optionally at least one nonvolatile silicone oil.
L'huile hydrocarbonée sera choisie de préférence parmi les triglycérides comme les triglycérides des acides caprylique/caprique, les esters d'acide gras comme le palmitate d'isopropyle, les éthers comme le diméthyléther, les alcanes comme l'isohexadecane et leurs mélanges. The hydrocarbon oil will preferably be chosen from triglycerides such as caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, fatty acid esters such as palmitate isopropyl, ethers such as dimethyl ether, alkanes such as isohexadecane and mixtures thereof.
L'huile hydrocarbonée ou les huiles hydrocarbonées seront présentes de préférence dans la composition à des concentrations allant de 1 à 30% en poids et plus préférentiellement allant de 3 à 20% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. The hydrocarbon oil or the hydrocarbon-based oils will preferably be present in the composition at concentrations ranging from 1 to 30% by weight and more preferably from 3 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
La concentration de la phase huileuse varie de préférence de 5 à 30% par rapport au poids total de la composition. The concentration of the oily phase preferably varies from 5 to 30% relative to the total weight of the composition.
POLYMERE NON-IONIQUE ASSOCIATIF ASSOCIATIVE NON-IONIC POLYMER
Selon un mode de réalisation, les compositions peuvent comprendre au moins un polymère associatif non ionique. According to one embodiment, the compositions may comprise at least one nonionic associative polymer.
Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par "polymères associatifs" des polymères hydrophiles capables dans un milieu aqueux, de s'associer réversiblement entre eux ou avec d'autres molécules. Leur structure chimique comprend plus particulièrement au moins une zone hydrophile et au moins une zone hydrophobe. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymers" is understood to mean hydrophilic polymers capable in an aqueous medium of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules. Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.
Par "groupement hydrophobe", on entend un radical ou polymère à chaîne hydrocarbonée, saturée ou non, linéaire ou ramifiée. Lorsqu'il désigne un radical hydrocarboné, le groupement hydrophobe comporte au moins 10 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 10 à 30 atomes de carbone, en particulier de 12 à 30 atomes de carbone et plus préférentiellement de 18 à 30 atomes de carbone. Préférentiellement, le groupement hydrocarboné provient d'un composé monofonctionnel. By "hydrophobic group" is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. When it refers to a hydrocarbon radical, the hydrophobic group comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon group comes from a monofunctional compound.
A titre d'exemple, le groupement hydrophobe peut être issu d'un alcool gras tel que l'alcool stéarylique, l'alcool dodécylique, l'alcool décylique ou bien d'un alcool gras polyoxyalkyléné comme le stéareth-100. Il peut également désigner un polymère hydrocarboné tel que par exemple le polybutadiène. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol or a polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol such as steareth-100. It can also denote a hydrocarbon polymer such as for example polybutadiene.
Les polymères associatifs non-ioniques peuvent être choisis parmi : The nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from:
les celluloses modifiées par des groupements comportant au moins une chaîne grasse comme par exemple les hydroxyéthylcelluloses modifiées par des groupements comportant au moins une chaîne grasse tels que des groupes alkyle, notamment en C8-C22 , arylalkyle, alkylaryle, telles que le NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (alkyles en d6) vendu par la société AQUALON, celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for example hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups, especially C 8 -C 22 , arylalkyl, alkylaryl, such as NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (alkyls d 6 ) sold by AQUALON,
les celluloses modifiées par des groupes polyalkylène glycol éther d'alkyl phénol, tel que le produit AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyéthylène glycol (15) éther de nonyl phénol) vendu par la société AMERCHOL,  celluloses modified with alkyl phenol polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenol ether) sold by the company Amerchol,
- les guars tels que l'hydroxypropyl guar, modifiés par des groupements comportant au moins une chaîne grasse telle qu'une chaîne alkyle,  guars such as hydroxypropyl guar, modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as an alkyl chain,
- les inulines modifiées par des groupements comportant au moins une chaîne grasse telles que les inulines alkyl carbamate et en particulier l'Inuline lauryl carbamate proposé par la société ORAFTI sous la dénomination INUTEC SP1 , et  inulins modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the alkyl carbamate inulins and in particular the lauryl carbamate inulin proposed by the company Oraffi under the name INUTEC SP1, and
- les diesters de polyéthylèneglycol et d'acide gras, tel que le distearate de polyethyleneglycol (150 OE) comme le PEG-150 Distearate vendu sous le nom commercial EMCOL L 32-45® de WITCO. Les polyuréthanes associatifs sont des copolymères séquencés non ioniques comportant dans la chaîne, à la fois des séquences hydrophiles de nature le plus souvent polyoxyéthylénée (les polyuréthanes peuvent alors être appelés des polyuréthanes polyéthers) et des séquences hydrophobes qui peuvent être des enchaînements aliphatiques seuls et/ou des enchaînements cycloaliphatiques et/ou aromatiques.  diesters of polyethylene glycol and fatty acid, such as polyethylene glycol distearate (150 EO), such as PEG-150 Distearate sold under the trade name EMCOL L 32-45® from WITCO. The associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain both hydrophilic sequences most often of a polyoxyethylenated nature (the polyurethanes may then be called polyurethane polyethers) and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic chains alone and / or or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains.
En particulier, ces polymères comportent au moins deux chaînes lipophiles hydrocarbonées, ayant de 6 à 30 atomes de carbone, séparées par une séquence hydrophile, les chaînes hydrocarbonées peuvent être des chaînes pendantes ou des chaînes en bout de séquence hydrophile. En particulier, il est possible qu'une ou plusieurs chaînes pendantes soient prévues. En outre, le polymère peut comporter, une chaîne hydrocarbonée à un bout ou aux deux bouts d'une séquence hydrophile. In particular, these polymers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains may be pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
Les polyuréthanes associatifs peuvent être séquencés sous forme de tribloc ou multibloc. Les séquences hydrophobes peuvent donc être à chaque extrémité de la chaîne (par exemple : copolymère tribloc à séquence centrale hydrophile) ou réparties à la fois aux extrémités et dans la chaîne (copolymère multiséquencé par exemple). Ces polymères peuvent être également en greffons ou en étoile. De préférence, les polyuréthanes associatifs sont des copolymères triblocs dont la séquence hydrophile est une chaîne polyoxyéthylénée comportant de 50 à 1 000 groupements oxyéthylénés. En général les polyuréthannes associatifs comportent une liaison uréthane entre les séquences hydrophiles, d'où l'origine du nom. Selon un mode de réalisation, on utilise à titre de gélifiant un polymère associatif non- ionique de type polyuréthane. The associative polyurethanes can be sequenced in the form of triblock or multiblock. The hydrophobic sequences may therefore be at each end of the chain (for example: hydrophilic central block triblock copolymer) or distributed at both the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These polymers may also be graft or star. Preferably, the associative polyurethanes are triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1,000 oxyethylenated groups. In general, the associative polyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name. According to one embodiment, a non-ionic polyurethane associative polymer is used as gelling agent.
A titre d'exemples de polyéthers polyuréthanes non-ioniques à chaîne grasse utilisables dans l'invention, on peut aussi utiliser le Rhéolate® FX 1 100 (Steareth-100/PEG 136/HDI(hexaméthyl diisocyanate) copolymer), le Rhéolate® 205® à fonction urée vendu par la société ELEMENTIS ou encore les Rhéolates® 208 , 204 ou 212, ainsi que l'Acrysol RM 184® ou l'Acrysol RM 2020. On peut également citer le produit ELFACOS T210® à chaîne alkyle en C12-C14 et le produit ELFACOS T212® à chaîne alkyle en C16-18 (PPG-14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate) de chez AKZO. As examples of fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers that can be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate® FX 1100 (Steareth-100 / PEG 136 / HDI (hexamethyl diisocyanate) copolymer), Rheolate® 205 Urea function sold by the company ELEMENTIS or Rheolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184® or Acrysol RM 2020. Mention may also be made of the product ELFACOS T210® chain C 12 alkyl -C 14 and the product ELFACOS T212® C16-18 alkyl chain (PPG-14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate) from AKZO.
Le produit DW 1206B® de chez ROHM & HAAS à chaîne alkyle en C20 et à liaison uréthanne, proposé à 20 % en matière sèche dans l'eau, peut aussi être utilisé. The product DW 1206B® from ROHM & HAAS with a C 20 alkyl chain and a urethane linkage, proposed at 20% solids content in water, can also be used.
On peut aussi utiliser des solutions ou dispersions de ces polymères notamment dans l'eau ou en milieu hydroalcoolique. A titre d'exemple de tels polymères, on peut citer le RHEOLATE® 255, le RHEOLATE® 278 et le RHEOLATE® 244 vendus par la société ELEMENTIS. On peut aussi utiliser le produit DW 1206F et le DW 1206J proposés par la société ROHM & HAAS. It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example of such polymers, mention may be made of RHEOLATE® 255, RHEOLATE® 278 and RHEOLATE® 244 sold by the company ELEMENTIS. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and the DW 1206J proposed by the company Rohm & Haas.
Les polyuréthanes associatifs utilisables selon l'invention sont en particulier ceux décrits dans l'article de G. Fonnum, J. Bakke et Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271 , 380.389 (1993). The associative polyurethanes that can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380, 389 (1993).
On peut aussi utiliser un polyuréthane associatif susceptible d'être obtenu par polycondensation d'au moins trois composés comprenant (i) au moins un polyéthylèneglycol comprenant de 150 à 180 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène, (ii) de l'alcool stéarylique ou de l'alcool décylique et (iii) au moins un diisocyanate. It is also possible to use an associative polyurethane obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
De tels polyéther polyuréthanes sont vendus notamment par la société ROHM & HAAS sous les appellations ACULYN 46® et ACULYN 44® [l'ACULYN 46® est un polycondensat de polyéthylèneglycol à 150 ou 180 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène, d'alcool stéarylique et de méthylène bis(4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDI), à 15% en poids dans une matrice de maltodextrine (4 %) et d'eau (81 %) ; l'ACULYN 44® est un polycondensat de polyéthylèneglycol à 150 ou 180 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène, d'alcool décylique et de méthylène bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), à 35 % en poids dans un mélange de propylèneglycol (39 %) et d'eau (26 %)]. Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company Rohm & Haas under the names ACULYN 46® and ACULYN 44® [ACULYN 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI) at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a propylene glycol mixture ( 39%) and water (26%)].
On peut aussi utiliser des solutions ou dispersions de ces polymères notamment dans l'eau ou en milieu hydroalcoolique. A titre d'exemple, de tels polymères on peut citer, le RHEOLATE FX1010®, le le RHEOLATE FX1035® et le RHEOLATE 1070® de la société ELEMENTIS, le RHEOLATE 255®, le RHEOLATE 278® et le le RHEOLATE 244® vendus par la société ELEMENTIS. On peut aussi utiliser les produits ACULYN 44, ACULYN 46®, DW 1206F® et le DW 1206J®, ainsi que l'Acrysol RM 184 de la société ROHM & HAAS, ou bien encore le BORCHI GEL LW 44® de la société BORCHERS, et leurs mélanges. On peut utiliser un polyéther polyuréthane non-ionique associatif tel que celui vendu notamment par la société ELEMENTIS sous l'appellation RHEOLATE FX 1 100 ® qui est un polycondensat de polyéthylèneglycol à 136 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène, d'alcool stéarylique polyoxyéthyléné à 100 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène et de hexaméthylène diisocyanate (HDI) ayant poids moléculaire moyen en poids de 30000 (nom INCI : PEG- 136/Steareth-100l/SMDI Copolymer). It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers include, RHEOLATE FX1010®, RHEOLATE FX1035® and RHEOLATE 1070® from ELEMENTIS, RHEOLATE 255®, RHEOLATE 278® and RHEOLATE 244® sold by ELEMENTIS society. It is also possible to use ACULYN 44, ACULYN 46®, DW 1206F® and DW 1206J® products, as well as the Acrysol RM 184 from the company Rohm & Haas, or else the BORCHI GEL LW 44® from the BORCHERS company. and their mixtures. It is possible to use an associative nonionic polyether polyurethane such as that sold in particular by the company ELEMENTIS under the name RHEOLATE FX 1100®, which is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 136 moles of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 100 moles of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) having a weight average molecular weight of 30000 (INCI name: PEG-136 / Steareth-1001 / SMDI Copolymer).
De préférence, la composition selon l'invention contient moins de 0,4% en poids, de préférence moins de 0,2% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, de polymère(s) non-ionique(s) associatif(s) en matière active. De préférence, la composition selon l'invention ne contient pas de polymère(s) non-ionique(s) associatif (s). Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains less than 0.4% by weight, preferably less than 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of nonionic associative polymer (s). (s) active matter. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain associative non-ionic polymer (s).
ADDITIFS Additives
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent également comprendre en plus des actifs additionnels cosmétiques et dermatologiques. The compositions according to the invention may also comprise, in addition, additional cosmetic and dermatological active ingredients.
Les compositions cosmétiques selon l'invention peuvent en outre comprendre des adjuvants cosmétiques choisis parmi les tensioactifs additionnels, les opacifiants, les stabilisants, les conservateurs, les parfums, les agents épaississants, les filtres solaires, les actifs dermatologiques ou cosmétiques, les charges, les agents de suspension, les séquestrants, les matières colorantes ou tout autre ingrédient habituellement utilisé en cosmétique pour ce type d'application. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may further comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from additional surfactants, opacifiers, stabilizers, preservatives, perfumes, thickeners, sunscreens, dermatological or cosmetic active agents, fillers, suspending agents, sequestering agents, dyestuffs or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.
La composition cosmétique selon l'invention peut en effet comprendre un ou plusieurs tensioactifs additionnels. De préférence, elle comprend au moins un tensioactif non- ionique additionnel, de préférence au moins un ester de glycéryle et d'acide gras. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may in fact comprise one or more additional surfactants. Preferably, it comprises at least one additional nonionic surfactant, preferably at least one glyceryl and fatty acid ester.
L'ester de glycéryle et d'acide gras peut être obtenu notamment à partir d'un acide comportant une chaîne alkyle linéaire saturée, ayant de 16 à 22 atomes de carbone. Comme ester de glycéryle et d'acide gras, on peut citer notamment le stéarate de glycéryle (mono-, di- et/ou tri-stéarate de glycéryle) (nom CTFA : Glyceryl stéarate), le ricinoléate de glycéryle, et leurs mélanges. De préférence, l'ester de glycéryle et d'acide gras utilisé est choisi parmi les stéarates de glycéryle. The glyceryl ester of fatty acid can be obtained in particular from an acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. As glycerol ester and fatty acid, there may be mentioned glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate) (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the glyceryl ester of fatty acid used is chosen from glyceryl stearates.
L'ester de glycéryle et d'acide gras peut également être présent en mélange avec du monostéarate de polyéthylène glycol 100 OE, et en particulier celui comprenant un mélange 50/50, commercialisé sous la dénomination Arlacel 165 par la société Croda. The glyceryl ester of fatty acid may also be present as a mixture with polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate, and in particular that comprising a 50/50 mixture, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by Croda.
L'ester de glycéryle et d'acide gras peut être présent en une quantité allant de 0,1 à 10 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence allant de 0,2 à 5 % en poids, et préférentiellement allant de 0,3 % à 3 % en poids. Parmi les charges, on peut notamment citer le talc, le kaolin, les silices, les argiles, la perlite ou encore les amidons particulaires insolubles dans l'eau. The glyceryl ester of fatty acid may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.3% to 3% by weight. Among the fillers, mention may be made of talc, kaolin, silicas, clays, perlite or particulate insoluble starches in water.
Parmi les silices, on peut citer : Among the silicas, mention may be made of:
- les microsphères de silice poreuses, notamment les microsphères de silice poreuses. porous silica microspheres, especially porous silica microspheres.
Les microparticules sphériques de silice poreuse ont de préférence une taille moyenne de particule allant de 0.5 à 20 μηι et plus particulièrement de 3 à 15 μηι. Elles ont de préférence une surface spécifique allant de 50 à 1000 m2/g et plus particulièrement deSpherical microparticles of porous silica preferably have an average particle size ranging from 0.5 to 20 μηι and more particularly from 3 to 15 μηι. They preferably have a specific surface ranging from 50 to 1000 m 2 / g and more particularly from
150 à 800 m2/g. Elles ont de préférence un volume poreux spécifique allant de 0,5 à 5 ml/g et plus particulièrement de 1 à 2 ml/g, A titre d'exemple de microbilles de silice poreuse, on peut utiliser les produits commerciaux suivants : 150 to 800 m 2 / g. They preferably have a specific pore volume ranging from 0.5 to 5 ml / g and more particularly from 1 to 2 ml / g. As an example of porous silica microspheres, the following commercial products may be used:
Silica Beads SB 150® de Myoshi, Silica Beads SB 150® from Myoshi,
Sunsphere H-51® ; Sunsphere H53® et Sunsphere H33® de Asahi Glass,  Sunsphere H-51®; Sunsphere H53® and Sunsphere H33® from Asahi Glass,
MSS-500-3H® par la société KOBO,  MSS-500-3H® by the company KOBO,
Sunsil 130® de Sunjin,  Sunsil 130® from Sunjin,
Spherica P-1500® de Ikeda Corporation,  Spherica P-1500® from Ikeda Corporation,
Sylosphere® de Fuji Silysia ; - les microsphères de silice amorphe enrobées de polydiméthylsiloxane, notamment celles vendues sous la dénomination « SA SUNSPHERE® H 33 » ; Sylosphere® from Fuji Silysia; amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane, in particular those sold under the name SA Sunsphere® H 33;
- les particules creuses de silices amorphes, notamment celles vendues sous la dénomination Silica Shells par la société Kobo ; ou  hollow particles of amorphous silicas, in particular those sold under the name Silica Shells by the company Kobo; or
- les poudres de silice précipitées traitées en surface par une cire minérale telles que la silice précipitée traitée par une cire de polyéthylène et notamment celles vendues sous la dénomination de ACEMATT OR 412 par la société EVONIK DEGUSSA. precipitated silica powders surface-treated with a mineral wax, such as precipitated silica treated with a polyethylene wax and in particular those sold under the name ACEMATT OR 412 by the company Evonik Degussa.
Bien entendu, l'homme de métier veillera à choisir ce ou ces éventuels composés complémentaires de manière telle que les propriétés avantageuses attachées intrinsèquement à la composition cosmétique conforme à l'invention ne soient pas, ou substantiellement pas, altérées par la ou les adjonctions envisagées. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the cosmetic composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition or additions envisaged. .
Les actifs dermatologiques ou cosmétiques pourront notamment être choisis parmi les agents hydratants, les agents desquamants, les agents améliorant la fonction barrière, les agents dépigmentants, les agents antioxydants, les agents dermo-décontractants, les agents anti-glycation, les agents stimulant la synthèse de macromolécules dermiques et/ou épidermiques et/ou empêchant leur dégradation, les agents stimulant la prolifération des fibroblastes ou des kératinocytes et/ou la différenciation des kératinocytes, les agents favorisant la maturation de l'enveloppe cornée, les inhibiteurs de NO-synthases, les antagonistes des récepteurs périphériques des benzodiazépines (PBR), les agents augmentant l'activité de la glande sébacée, les agents stimulant le métabolisme énergétique des cellules, les agents tenseurs, les agents lipo-restructurants, les agents amincissants, les agents favorisant la microcirculation cutanée, les agents apaisants et/ou anti-irritants, les sébo-régulateurs ou anti-séborrhéiques, les agents astringents, les agents cicatrisants, les agents anti-inflammatoires, les agents kératolytiques, les agents anti-repousse du poil et les agents anti-acné. The dermatological or cosmetic active agents may in particular be chosen from moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, barrier-improving agents, depigmenting agents, antioxidant agents, dermo-decontracting agents, anti-glycation agents and agents stimulating synthesis. dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, inhibitors of NO-synthases, the peripheral benzodiazepine receptor antagonists (PBR), the agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, the agents stimulating the energy metabolism of the cells, the tensing agents, the lipo-restructuring agents, the slimming agents, the agents promoting the microcirculation dermal, soothing and / or anti-irritant agents, sebum-regulators or anti-seborrhoeic agents, astringent agents, healing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, keratolytic agents, anti-hair regrowth agents and anti-acne agents.
COMPOSITIONS DEODORANTES ET/OU ANTITRANSPIRANTES DEODORANT AND / OR ANTITRANSPIRANT COMPOSITIONS
La présente invention concerne également un procédé cosmétique pour traiter la transpiration humaine et/ou les odeurs corporelles liées à la transpiration consistant à appliquer sur la surface d'une matière kératinique humaine une composition telle que définie précédemment comprenant au moins un actif déodorant et/ou un actif anti- transpirant. Les compositions conformes à l'invention peuvent donc utilisées comme produit déodorant et/ou anti-transpirant et contenir au moins un actif déodorant et/ou un actif anti- transpirant. Sels ou complexes anti-transpirants additionnels The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating human perspiration and / or body odor related to perspiration comprising applying to the surface of a human keratin material a composition as defined above comprising at least one deodorant active agent and / or an antiperspirant active. The compositions in accordance with the invention can therefore be used as a deodorant and / or antiperspirant product and may contain at least one deodorant active agent and / or an antiperspirant active ingredient. Additional salts or antiperspirant complexes
Les sels ou complexes anti-transpirants d'aluminium et/ou de zirconium sont de préférence choisis parmi les halohydrates de d'aluminium ; les halohydrates d'aluminium et de zirconium, les complexes d'hydroxychlorure de zirconium et d'hydroxychlorure d'aluminium avec ou sans un acide aminé tels que ceux décrits dans le brevet US- 3792068. The antiperspirant salts or complexes of aluminum and / or zirconium are preferably chosen from aluminum halohydrates; aluminum and zirconium halohydrates, complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride with or without an amino acid such as those described in US Pat. No. 3,798,068.
Parmi les sels d'aluminium, on peut citer en particulier le chlorhydrate d'aluminium sous forme activée ou non activée, l'aluminium chlorohydrex, le complexe aluminium chlorohydrex polyéthylèneglycol, le complexe aluminium chlorohydrex propylèneglycol, l'aluminium dichlorohydrate, le complexe aluminium dichlorohydrex polyéthylèneglycol, le complexe aluminium dichlorohydrex propylèneglycol, l'aluminium sesquichlorohydrate, le complexe aluminium sesquichlorohydrex polyéthylèneglycol, le complexe aluminium sesquichlorohydrex propylèneglycol, le sulfate d'aluminium tamponné par le lactate de sodium et d'aluminium. Among the aluminum salts, mention may in particular be made of aluminum chlorohydrate in activated or non-activated form, aluminum chlorohydrex, chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol aluminum complex, aluminum chlorohydrexpropyleneglycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrex complex polyethylene glycol, aluminum complex dichlorohydrex propylene glycol, sesquichlorohydrate aluminum, sesquichlorohydrex aluminum polyethylene glycol complex, sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol aluminum complex, aluminum sulphate buffered with sodium aluminum lactate.
Parmi les sels d'aluminium et de zirconium, on peut citer en particulier l'aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrate, l'aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate, l'aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, l'aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate. Among the aluminum and zirconium salts, there may be mentioned in particular aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate.
Les complexes d'hydroxychlorure de zirconium et d'hydroxychlorure d'aluminium avec un acide aminé sont généralement connus sous l'appellation ZAG (lorsque l'acide aminé est la glycine). Parmi ces produits on peut citer les complexes aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine et aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine. The complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). Among these products, mention may be made of aluminum complexes of zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine.
Les sels ou complexes d'aluminium et/ou de zirconium anti-transpirants peuvent être présents dans la composition selon l'invention à raison d'au moins 0,5% en poids, de préférence de 0,5 à 25% en poids, de préférence dans une teneur allant de 1 à 20% et plus particulièrement entre 2 et 15% en poids de matière active par rapport au poids total de la composition. Actifs déodorants The antiperspirant aluminum and / or zirconium salts or complexes can be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of at least 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 1 to 20% and more particularly between 2 and 15% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition. Deodorant active ingredients
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent également contenir en plus un ou plusieurs actifs déodorants additionnels. The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more additional deodorant active agents.
On appelle « actif déodorant », toute substance capable de masquer, absorber, améliorer et/ou réduire l'odeur désagréable résultant de la décomposition de la sueur humaine par des bactéries. Deodorant active is any substance capable of masking, absorbing, improving and / or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria.
Les actifs déodorants peuvent être des agents bactériostatiques ou des agents bactéricides agissant sur les germes des odeurs axillaires, comme le 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'- hydroxydiphényléther (®Triclosan), le 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphényléther, le 3',4',5'- trichlorosalicylanilide, la 1 -(3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'-chlorophenyl)urée (®Triclocarban) ou le 3,7,1 1 -triméthyldodéca-2, 5,10-triénol (®Farnesol); les sels d'ammonium quaternaires comme les sels de cetyltrimethylammonium, les sels de cétylpyridinium, le DPTA (acide 1 ,3-diaminopropanetétraacétique), le 1 ,2-décanediol (SYMCLARIOL de la société Symrise), les dérivés de glycérine comme par exemple le Caprylic/Capric Glycerides (CAPMUL MCM de Abitec), le Caprylate ou caprate de Glycerol (DERMOSOFT GMCY et DERMOSOFT GMC respectivement de STRAETMANS), le Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate (DERMOSOFT DGMC de STRAETMANS), les dérivés de biguanide comme les sels de polyhexaméthylène biguanide ; la chlorhexidine et ses sels; 4-Phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2- butanol (SYMDEO MPP de Symrise) ; ou les cyclodextrines. Parmi les actifs déodorants conformes à l'invention, on peut aussi citer également : The deodorant active agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents acting on the germs of axillary odors, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether ( ® Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'- hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1 - (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea ( ® Triclocarban) or 3,7,1 1 -trimethyldodeca -2, 5,10-trienol (Farnesol ®); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1,3-diaminopropanetraacetic acid), 1,2-decanediol (SYMCLARIOL from Symrise), glycerol derivatives, for example Caprylic / Capric Glycerides (CAPMUL MCM from Abitec), Caprylate or Glycerol caprate (DERMOSOFT GMCY and DERMOSOFT GMC respectively from STRAETMANS), Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate (DERMOSOFT DG ™ from STRAETMANS), biguanide derivatives such as polyhexamethylene biguanide salts ; chlorhexidine and its salts; 4-Phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2-butanol (SYMDEO MPP from Symrise); or cyclodextrins. Among the deodorant active agents according to the invention, mention may also be made of:
- les sels de zinc comme le salicylate de zinc, le gluconate de zinc, le pidolate de zinc ; le sulfate de zinc, le chlorure de zinc, le lactate de zinc, le phénolsulfonate de zinc ; ricinoléate de zinc ;  zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate; zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulfonate; zinc ricinoleate;
- le bicarbonate de sodium ;  - sodium bicarbonate;
- l'acide salicylique et ses dérivés tels que l'acide n-octanoyl-5-salicylique ; salicylic acid and its derivatives such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid;
- les zéolites notamment métalliques sans argent ;  zeolites, in particular metallic zeolites, without silver;
- l'alun ; ou  - Moon ; or
- le triéthyl citrate. Les actifs déodorants peuvent être présents de préférence dans les compositions selon l'invention dans des concentrations pondérales allant 0,01 à 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Les exemples qui suivent servent à illustrer la présente invention. Les quantités sont données en pourcentage massique par rapport au poids total de la composition. triethyl citrate. The deodorant active agents may preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention. The amounts are given as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
EXEMPLES EXAMPLES
On a préparé les exemples selon le protocole suivant : The examples were prepared according to the following protocol:
- La phase aqueuse contenant les épaississants (polysaccharide hydrosoluble notamment) ainsi que les sels d'aluminium sont chauffés à 80°C ;  The aqueous phase containing the thickeners (water-soluble polysaccharide in particular) and the aluminum salts are heated to 80 ° C .;
- Les cires et le mélange tensioactif sont chauffés avec les huiles à 80°C ;  The waxes and the surfactant mixture are heated with the oils at 80 ° C .;
- Les deux phases sont mélangées et cisaillées sous émulseur Rayneri pendant 10 minutes ; The two phases are mixed and sheared under Rayneri emulsifier for 10 minutes;
- La charge est ensuite ajoutée sous défloculeuse Rayneri ;  - The charge is then added under Rayneri deflocculator;
- La formule est refroidie à température ambiante sous défloculeuse Rayneri avant d'être conditionnée.  - The formula is cooled to room temperature under Rayneri deflocculator before being packaged.
En outre, le transfert de traces blanches est évalué selon le protocole suivant : In addition, the transfer of white traces is evaluated according to the following protocol:
Préparation des échantillons : Sample preparation:
- Préparation du support  - Support preparation
On colle du Supplale (K638 de chez Beaulax) sur des feuilles cartonnées avec du scotch double face, on découpe des cercles de 50mm de diamètre à l'emporte-pièce ou au laser puis on colle sur un couvercle de pot Cléopâtre qui servira de support rigide lors de la mesure. Attachment of the Supplale (K638 from Beaulax) on cardboard sheets with double-sided tape, cut circles of 50mm diameter by punch or laser and then stick on a lid Cleopatra pot that will serve as support rigid when measuring.
- Préparation du dépôt  - Preparation of the deposit
On dépose la formule à tester, afin d'avoir 0,08g après étalement (soit environ 3,75mg/cm2 ce qui correspond aux 0.4g consommés en moyenne par les consommateurs par aisselle et par jour). The formula to be tested is deposited in order to have 0.08 g after spreading (ie approximately 3.75 mg / cm 2 , which corresponds to the 0.4 g consumed on average by the consumers per axelle and per day).
On étale la formule en cercle (20-25 tours) au doigtier non poudré sur le support de Supplale de 50mm de diamètre.  The formula is spread in a circle (20-25 turns) to the unpowdered fingerstand on the Supplale support 50mm in diameter.
On laisse sécher 24h sur plaque thermostatée à 35°C. It is allowed to dry 24 hours on a thermostatically controlled plate at 35 ° C.
La formule est testée en triplicate. Mesure et paramètres du tribomètre (Tribomètre Standard de chez CSM instrument) :The formula is tested in triplicate. Measurement and parameters of the tribometer (Standard Tribometer from CSM instrument):
- Mobile : disque plat diamètre 14mm sur lequel on colle du coton noir tricoté normalisé- Mobile: flat disc diameter 14mm on which we stick standard black knitted cotton
(IFTH 120g/cm2) au scotch double face (découper à l'aide d'un emporte-pièce (0 = 14mm)). (IFTH 120g / cm 2 ) with double-sided tape (cut with a punch (0 = 14mm)).
- Logiciel : InstrumX TRIBOX - « Tribometer Measure ».  - Software: InstrumX TRIBOX - "Tribometer Measure".
- Paramètres de mesure : Tour : 1 tour - Vitesse : 3,14 cm/s, Force appliquée : 1 N. Enfin, on règle le rayon - Diamètre des tours : 7mm.  - Measurement parameters: Lathe: 1 revolution - Speed: 3.14 cm / s, Force applied: 1 N. Finally, we set the radius - RPM diameter: 7mm.
Résultats Results
Une fois le protocole appliqué :  Once the protocol is applied:
- On récupère les disques de coton pour analyser visuellement le blanchiment : on évalue les traces blanches ;  - The cotton discs are recovered to visually analyze the bleaching: the white traces are evaluated;
- On récupère les plaques de Supplale pour analyser le dépôt : on évalue l'homogénéité et la résistance du dépôt.  - Supplale plates are collected to analyze the deposit: the homogeneity and resistance of the deposit are evaluated.
Exemple 1 : Influence des alcools gras en C8-30 oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés EXAMPLE 1 Influence of oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated C 8-30 fatty alcohols
On a comparé le transfert de taches blanches entre : The transfer of white spots between:
- la formulation 1 selon l'invention comprenant un mélange de steareth-2 et steareth-20, et the formulation 1 according to the invention comprising a mixture of steareth-2 and steareth-20, and
- une formulation 3 hors invention dépourvue de ce mélange. a formulation 3 outside the invention without this mixture.
GLYCERYL STEARATE 1 ,5 1 ,5 GLYCERYL STEARATE 1, 5 1, 5
(and) PEG-100 (and) PEG-100
STEARATE (8) STEARATE (8)
STEARETH-2 (9) 1 ,3 STEARETH-2 (9) 1, 3
STEARETH-20 (1 U) 0,2 STEARETH-20 (1 U) 0.2
Eau Qsp 100 Qsp 100  Water Qs 100 Qs 100
TOTAL 100 100  TOTAL 100 100
Les concentrations des différents composés sont données en % de Matière Active The concentrations of the different compounds are given in% of Active Matter
(MA) (MY)
<1) Ultra ZAG 88L Aluminium/Zirconium tetrachlorohydrex-Gly commercialisé par la société SUMMITREHEIS <1) Ultra ZAG 88L Aluminum / Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex-Gly marketed by SUMMITREHEIS
<2) IMERCARE 2K commercialisé par la société IMERYS <2) IMERCARE 2K marketed by the company IMERYS
<3) Wilfarest MCT 7030 commercialisé par la société WILMAR <3) Wilfarest MCT 7030 sold by WILMAR
<4) Cire d'abeille blanche commercialisée par la société KOST ER KEUNEN <4) White beeswax marketed by KOST ER KEUNEN
<5) Structure ZEA commercialisé par la société AKZO NOBEL <5) Structure ZEA marketed by the company Akzo Nobel
<6) Bel Sil DM 100 commercialisé par la société WACKER <6) Bel Sil DM 100 sold by the company Wacker
<7) Lanette D commercialisé par la société BASF <7) Lanette D sold by the company BASF
<8) Arlacel 165 commercialisé par la société CRODA <8) Arlacel 165 marketed by the company Croda
<9) Brij S2-SO-(WL) commercialisé par la société CRODA <9) Brij S2-SO- (WL) marketed by the company Croda
<10) SP Brij S20 SEG-PA-(SG) commercialisé par la société CRODA <10) SP Brij S20 SEG-PA- (SG) marketed by the company Croda
Les résultats ont montré que la formulation 1 selon l'invention comprenant un mélange de steareth-2 et steareth-20 transfère beaucoup moins de traces blanches que la formulation 3 qui en est dépourvue. The results showed that the formulation 1 according to the invention comprising a mixture of steareth-2 and steareth-20 transfers much less white traces than the formulation 3 which is devoid of it.
Exemple 2 : Influence du PEG100 stéarate de la formulation 1 Example 2 Influence of PEG100 Stearate of Formulation 1
On a comparé le transfert de taches blanches entre : The transfer of white spots between:
- la formulation 1 selon l'invention comprenant un mélange de glycéryl stéarate et de PEG-100 stéarate, et  the formulation 1 according to the invention comprising a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, and
- une formulation 4 selon invention dépourvue de PEG-100 stéarate.  a formulation 4 according to the invention devoid of PEG-100 stearate.
Nom INCI Formulation 1 Formulation 4 INCI name Formulation 1 Formulation 4
(invention) (invention)  (invention) (invention)
ALUMINUM ZIRCONIUM 23,125 23,125 ALUMINUM ZIRCONIUM 23.125 23.125
TETRACHLOROHYDREX tetrachlorohydrex
GLYCINEGLYCINE
KAOLIN 5 5 PHENOXYETHANOL 0,7 0,7 KAOLIN 5 5 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.7 0.7
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC 5 5  CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC 5 5
TRIGLYCERIDETRIGLYCERIDES
CERA ALBA 1 1 CERA ALBA 1 1
PARFUM 2 2  FRAGRANCE 2 2
HYDROXYPROPYL 1 ,32 1 ,32  HYDROXYPROPYL 1, 32 1, 32
STARCH PHOSPHATESTARCH PHOSPHATE
DIMETHICONE 10 10 DIMETHICONE 10 10
CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0,2 0,2  CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.2 0.2
GLYCERYL STEARATE 1 ,5  GLYCERYL STEARATE 1, 5
CETEARYL ALCOHOL 2,5 2,5  CETEARYL ALCOHOL 2,5 2,5
GLYCERYL STEARATE 1 ,5  GLYCERYL STEARATE 1, 5
(and) PEG-100 (and) PEG-100
STEARATESTEARATE
STEARETH-2 1 ,3 1 ,3 STEARETH-2 1, 3 1, 3
STEARETH-20 0,2 0,2  STEARETH-20 0.2 0.2
Eau Qsp 100 Qsp 100  Water Qs 100 Qs 100
TOTAL 100 100  TOTAL 100 100
Les concentrations des différents composés sont données en % de Matière Active (MA). Les composés utilisés sont identiques à ceux décrits dans l'exemple 1 .  The concentrations of the various compounds are given in% of Active Matter (AD). The compounds used are identical to those described in Example 1.
Les résultats ont montré que les formulations 1 et 4 selon l'invention, comprenant ou non du PEG-100 stéarate, transfèrent une quantité similaire de traces blanches. The results showed that the formulations 1 and 4 according to the invention, comprising or not PEG-100 stearate, transfer a similar amount of white traces.
Exemple 3 : Influence de l'alcool gras en C8-30 Example 3 Influence of the fatty alcohol in C8-30
On a comparé le transfert de taches blanches entre : The transfer of white spots between:
- la formulation 1 selon l'invention comprenant de l'alcool cétéarylique, et the formulation 1 according to the invention comprising cetearyl alcohol, and
- une formulation 5 selon invention comprenant de l'alcool stéarylique. a formulation according to the invention comprising stearyl alcohol.
Nom INCI Formulation 1 Formulation 5 INCI name Formulation 1 Formulation 5
(invention) (invention)  (invention) (invention)
ALUMINUM ZIRCONIUM 23,125 23,125 ALUMINUM ZIRCONIUM 23.125 23.125
TETRACHLOROHYDREX GLYCINETETRACHLOROHYDREX GLYCINE
KAOLIN 5 5 KAOLIN 5 5
PHENOXYETHANOL 0,7 0,7  PHENOXYETHANOL 0.7 0.7
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 5 5  CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 5 5
CERA ALBA 1 1  CERA ALBA 1 1
STEARYL ALCOHOL (C18) (1) 2,5 STEARYL ALCOHOL (C18) (1) 2,5
PARFUM 2 2  FRAGRANCE 2 2
HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH 1 ,32 1 ,32  HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH 1, 32 1, 32
PHOSPHATE DIMETH ICONE 10 10PHOSPHATE DIMETH ICONE 10 10
CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0,2 0,2 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.2 0.2
CETEARYL ALCOHOL (C16-C18) 2,5  CETEARYL ALCOHOL (C16-C18) 2,5
GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG- 1 ,5 1 ,5  GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG- 1, 5 1, 5
100 STEARATE 100 STEARATE
STEARETH-2 1 ,3 1 ,3  STEARETH-2 1, 3 1, 3
STEARETH-20 0,2 0,2  STEARETH-20 0.2 0.2
Eau Qsp 100 Qsp 100  Water Qs 100 Qs 100
Total 100 100  Total 100 100
Les concentrations des différents composés sont données en % d e Matière Active (MA).  The concentrations of the various compounds are given in% d of Active Matter (MA).
( ' Lanette 18, commercialisé par la société BASF ( 'Lanette 18, marketed by BASF
Les autres composés utilisés sont identiques à ceux décrits dans l'exemple 1 . The other compounds used are identical to those described in Example 1.
Les résultats ont montré que les formulations 1 et 5 selon l'invention, comprenant de l'alcool cétéarylique ou de l'alcool stéarylique, transfèrent une quantité similaire de traces blanches. The results showed that formulations 1 and 5 according to the invention, comprising cetearyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol, transfer a similar amount of white traces.
Exemple 4 : Influence de l'huile On a comparé le transfert de taches blanches entre : Example 4 Influence of the Oil The transfer of white spots was compared between:
- la formulation 1 selon l'invention comprenant des triglycérides caprylique/caprique et de l'huile siliconée, et  the formulation 1 according to the invention comprising caprylic / capric triglycerides and silicone oil, and
- une formulation 6 selon invention comprenant de l'isohexadécane et de l'huile siliconée.  a formulation 6 according to the invention comprising isohexadecane and silicone oil.
Nom INCI Formulation 1 Formulation 6 INCI name Formulation 1 Formulation 6
(invention) (invention)  (invention) (invention)
ALUMINUM ZIRCONIUM 15 ALUMINUM ZIRCONIUM 15
PENTACHLOROHYDRATE pentachlorohydrate
(1 )  (1)
TETRASODIUM 0,076  TETRASODIUM 0.076
GLUTAMATE DIACETATE GLUTAMATE DIACETATE
(2)  (2)
ALUMINUM ZIRCONIUM 23,125  ALUMINUM ZIRCONIUM 23.125
TETRACHLOROHYDREX tetrachlorohydrex
GLYCINEGLYCINE
KAOLIN 5 5 KAOLIN 5 5
PHENOXYETHANOL 0,7 0,7  PHENOXYETHANOL 0.7 0.7
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC 5  CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC 5
TRIGLYCERIDETRIGLYCERIDES
CERA ALBA 1 ,5 1 ,5 CERA ALBA 1, 5 1, 5
ISOHEXADECANE 5  ISOHEXADECANE 5
PARFUM 2 2 HYDROXYPROPYL 0,88 0,88 FRAGRANCE 2 2 HYDROXYPROPYL 0.88 0.88
STARCH PHOSPHATESTARCH PHOSPHATE
DIMETHICONE 10 10 DIMETHICONE 10 10
CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0,2 0,2  CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.2 0.2
CETEARYL ALCOHOL 2,5 2,5  CETEARYL ALCOHOL 2,5 2,5
GLYCERYL STEARATE 1 ,5 1 ,5  GLYCERYL STEARATE 1, 5 1, 5
(and) PEG-100 STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE
STEARETH-2 1 ,3 1 ,3  STEARETH-2 1, 3 1, 3
STEARETH-20 0,2 0,2  STEARETH-20 0.2 0.2
Eau Qsp 100 Qsp 100  Water Qs 100 Qs 100
TOTAL 100 100  TOTAL 100 100
Les concentrations des différents composés sont données en % de Matière Active (MA).  The concentrations of the various compounds are given in% of Active Matter (AD).
<1) REZAL 67 solution commercialisé par la société SUMMITREHEIS < 1) REZAL 67 solution marketed by the company SUMMITREHEIS
<2) Dissolvine GL-47-S commercialisé par la société AKZO NOBEL < 2) Dissolvine GL-47-S marketed by the company Akzo Nobel
Les autres composés utilisés sont identiques à ceux décrits dans l'exemple 1 .  The other compounds used are identical to those described in Example 1.
Les résultats ont montré que les formulations 1 et 6 selon l'invention, comprenant respectivement des triglycérides caprylique/caprique ou de l'isohexadécane, transfèrent une quantité similaire de traces blanches. The results showed that formulations 1 and 6 according to the invention, comprising respectively caprylic / capric triglycerides or isohexadecane, transfer a similar amount of white traces.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Composition sous forme d'émulsion huile-dans-eau comprenant dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable : 1. Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
A) une phase aqueuse continue, et A) a continuous aqueous phase, and
B) une phase huileuse dispersée dans ladite phase aqueuse et comprenant au moins une huile hydrocarbonée ;  B) an oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase and comprising at least one hydrocarbon oil;
C) au moins un mélange constitué de :  C) at least one mixture consisting of:
i) au moins un tensioactif non-ionique choisi parmi les alcools gras comprenant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, et  i) at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and
ii) au moins deux alcools gras en C8-30 oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés, ii) at least two oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated C 8-30 fatty alcohols,
D) au moins une cire de point de fusion supérieur à 45°C comprenant un ou plusieurs composés esters en C4o-C7o et ne comprenant pas de composé ester en C20-C39, dans une quantité allant de 1 à 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, et E) au moins un polysaccharide hydrosoluble choisi parmi les amidons ; D) at least one wax with a melting point of greater than 45 ° C comprising one or more C 4 o C 7 o ester compounds and not comprising a C 20 -C 39 ester compound, in an amount ranging from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and E) at least one water-soluble polysaccharide chosen from starches;
ladite composition ayant une viscosité mesurée à 25°C avec un viscosimètre Rheomat RM 180 à 200 s"1 à température ambiante au mobile 3 ou mobile 4 au bout de 10 min, allant de 1200 à 8000 mPa.s. said composition having a viscosity measured at 25 ° C. with a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer at 200 s -1 at ambient temperature at mobile 3 or mobile 4 after 10 min, ranging from 1200 to 8000 mPa.s.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1 , caractérisée en ce que l'alcool gras i) comprenant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone correspond à la formule R-OH dans laquelle R représente un radical hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, comportant 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 10 à 22 atomes de carbone, comprenant éventuellement un ou plusieurs groupes OH. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the fatty alcohol i) comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms corresponds to the formula R-OH in which R represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more OH groups.
3. Composition selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que l'alcool gras i) comprenant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone est présent en une quantité allant de 0,5% à 10% en poids, de préférence de 1 % à 8% en poids, préférentiellement de 1 ,2 % à 8 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the fatty alcohol i) comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably 1%. at 8% by weight, preferably from 1.2% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, où l'alcool gras i) comprenant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone est choisi parmi l'alcool cétylique, l'alcool stéarylique, l'alcool arachidylique, l'alcool béhénylique, un alcool cétylstéarylique et leurs mélanges. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the fatty alcohol i) comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, alcohol. behenyl, a cetylstearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
5. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisée en ce que les alcools gras en C8-30 oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés ii) sont oxyéthylénés et correspondent à la formule R-[0-CH2-CH2]n-OH dans laquelle R représente un radical hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, comportant 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 10 à 22 atomes de carbone, et n est un entier variant de 1 à 150, de préférence de 2 à 100, plus préférentiellement de 2 à 50, de préférence de 2 à 25. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated C 8-30 fatty alcohols ii) are oxyethylenated and correspond to the formula R- [O-CH 2 -CH 2 ] n-OH in which R represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and n is an integer ranging from 1 to 150, preferably from 2 to 100, more preferably 2 to 50, preferably 2 to 25.
6. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisée en ce que les alcools gras en C8-30 oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés ii) sont choisis parmi l'alcool stéarylique éthoxylé à 2 motifs oxyéthylène, l'alcool laurique éthoxylé à 2 motifs oxyéthylène, l'alcool cétéarylique éthoxylé à 3 motifs oxyéthylène, l'alcool stéarylique éthoxylé à 20 motifs oxyéthylène, l'alcool cétéarylique éthoxylé à 30 motifs oxyéthylène, le mélange d'alcools gras en C12-C15 comportant 7 motifs oxyéthylène, l'alcool béhénylique éthoxylé à 10 motifs oxyéthylène et leurs mélanges. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated C 8-30 fatty alcohols ii) are chosen from ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylene units, ethoxylated lauric alcohol. with 2 oxyethylene units, ethoxylated ethoxylated alcohol with 3 oxyethylene units, ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylene units, ethoxylated ethoxylated alcohol with 30 oxyethylene units, the mixture of C 12 -C 15 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylene units, ethoxylated behenyl alcohol containing 10 oxyethylene units and their mixtures.
7. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisée en ce que les alcools gras en C8-30 oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés ii) sont un mélange de deux alcools gras oxyéthylénés de formule R-[0-CH2-CH2]n-OH dans laquelle R représente le même radical hydrocarboné comportant 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, et n varie de 2 à 10 pour un premier alcool gras oxyéthyléné, et de 12 à 25 pour le second alcool gras oxyéthyléné. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene C8-30 fatty alcohols ii) are a mixture of two oxyethylenated fatty alcohols of formula R- [O-CH 2 - CH 2 ] n-OH wherein R represents the same hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and n ranges from 2 to 10 for a first oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, and from 12 to 25 for the second oxyethylenated fatty alcohol.
8. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisée en ce que les alcools gras en C8-30 oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés ii) sont présents en une quantité allant de 0,5% à 10% en poids, de préférence de 1 % à 8% en poids, préférentiellement de 1 ,2% à 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the fatty alcohols C8-30 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene II) are present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 1.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisée en ce que la cire est choisie parmi la cire de Candellila, la cire de son de riz, la cire d'abeille, la cire de tournesol et leurs mélanges, et plus particulièrement parmi la cire de Candellila et la cire d'abeille. 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the wax is chosen from Candellila wax, rice bran wax, beeswax, sunflower wax and mixtures thereof, and especially Candellila wax and beeswax.
10. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 9, caractérisée en ce que la phase huileuse comprend au moins une huile hydrocarbonée non volatile et éventuellement au moins une huile siliconé non volatile. 10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the oily phase comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and optionally at least one non-volatile silicone oil.
11. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 10, caractérisée en ce que la concentration de la phase huileuse varie de 5 à 30% par rapport au poids total de la composition et la concentration de la phase aqueuse varie de préférence de 1 à 90% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the concentration of the oily phase ranges from 5 to 30% relative to the total weight of the composition and the concentration of the aqueous phase preferably varies from 1 at 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 1 1 , caractérisée en ce que le polysaccharide hydrosoluble est choisi parmi les amidons de maïs non modifiés, les amidons de riz non modifiés, les phosphates de diamidon de maïs ou leurs mélanges. 12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1, characterized in that the water-soluble polysaccharide is chosen from unmodified corn starches, unmodified rice starches, cornstarch phosphates or mixtures thereof.
13. Composition selon la revendication 12, où l'amidon est un phosphate de diamidon. 13. The composition of claim 12, wherein the starch is a diamidon phosphate.
14. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 13, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend en plus au moins un actif anti-transpirant et/ou un actif déodorant. 14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it further comprises at least one antiperspirant active and / or a deodorant active.
15. Procédé cosmétique de traitement et/ou de soin des matières kératiniques humaines caractérisé par le fait qu'il consiste à appliquer sur la surface de la matière kératinique une composition telle que définie dans l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes. 15. Cosmetic process for treating and / or caring for human keratinous materials, characterized in that it consists in applying to the surface of the keratin material a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.
16. Procédé cosmétique pour traiter la transpiration humaine et/ou les odeurs corporelles liées à la transpiration consistant à appliquer sur la surface d'une matière kératinique humaine une composition telle que définie dans la revendication 14. 16. A cosmetic method for treating human perspiration and / or body odor related to perspiration comprising applying to the surface of a human keratin material a composition as defined in claim 14.
EP18733264.8A 2017-06-23 2018-06-22 Oil-in-water emulsion comprising a fatty alcohol, a poly(oxyethylene) alkyl ether, a wax and a water-soluble polysaccharide Withdrawn EP3641722A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1755786A FR3079419B1 (en) 2017-06-23 2017-06-23 OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION COMPRISING A FATTY ALCOHOL, AN ALKYLETHER POLYOXYETHYLENE, A WAX AND A WATER-SOLUBLE POLYSACCHARIDE
PCT/EP2018/066736 WO2018234535A1 (en) 2017-06-23 2018-06-22 Oil-in-water emulsion comprising a fatty alcohol, a poly(oxyethylene) alkyl ether, a wax and a water-soluble polysaccharide

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EP3641722A1 true EP3641722A1 (en) 2020-04-29

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EP (1) EP3641722A1 (en)
BR (1) BR112019027097A2 (en)
FR (1) FR3079419B1 (en)
RU (1) RU2739981C1 (en)
WO (1) WO2018234535A1 (en)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3094224B1 (en) * 2019-03-29 2021-05-28 Chanel Parfums Beaute Composition allowing the transfer of a colored pattern to the skin and uses
EP3930665B1 (en) * 2019-08-28 2024-07-17 Beiersdorf AG Acrylate and silicon-free cosmetic o/w emulsion

Family Cites Families (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3792068A (en) 1971-04-02 1974-02-12 Procter & Gamble Dry powder aerosol antiperspirant composition incorporating dry powder antiperspirant active complex and process for its preparation
DE102004036689A1 (en) * 2004-07-28 2006-03-23 Henkel Kgaa Low-residue deodorant or antiperspirant stick based on an oil-in-water dispersion
DE102008012457A1 (en) 2007-06-19 2008-12-24 Cognis Ip Management Gmbh Hydrocarbon mixture, useful e.g. in decorative cosmetics, preferably lipsticks, lip gloss, eye shade, mascara, eye pencil, nail polish and make-up formulations and eye shade, comprises linear hydrocarbons
FR2960150B1 (en) * 2010-05-18 2012-07-13 Oreal COSMETIC COMPOSITION, ASSEMBLY AND METHOD FOR COATING KERATINIC FIBERS
FR2968936B1 (en) 2010-12-21 2012-12-28 Oreal ANHYDROUS SOLID SOFT COMPOSITION COMPRISING HYDROPHOBIC SILICA AEROGEL PARTICLES, AT LEAST ONE OIL AND AT LEAST ONE SOLID FATTY BODY
JP5117591B2 (en) * 2011-03-30 2013-01-16 株式会社 資生堂 Water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic
FR2976487B1 (en) * 2011-06-15 2013-06-28 Oreal COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR COATING KERATINIC FIBERS OF THE EMULSION TYPE AND METHOD FOR COATING KERATIN FIBERS
FR2985174B1 (en) * 2012-01-02 2014-03-07 Oreal AQUEOUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, NON-VOLATILE OILS, AT LEAST ONE WAX AND AT LEAST ONE PARTICULAR HYDROPHILIC GELIFIER
FR3002141B1 (en) 2013-02-21 2015-06-26 Oreal OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE SPECIFIC MIXTURE OF NON-IONIC SURFACTANTS, A WAX COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ESTER AND A WATER-SOLUBLE POLYSACCHARIDE
WO2017103235A1 (en) * 2015-12-16 2017-06-22 L'oreal Composition for coating keratin fibers with at least one ester of oligomer glycerol

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RU2739981C1 (en) 2020-12-30
FR3079419A1 (en) 2019-10-04
WO2018234535A1 (en) 2018-12-27
FR3079419B1 (en) 2020-12-25

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