EP2303045B1 - Axillary piece with three-dimensional configuration - Google Patents

Axillary piece with three-dimensional configuration Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2303045B1
EP2303045B1 EP09794024A EP09794024A EP2303045B1 EP 2303045 B1 EP2303045 B1 EP 2303045B1 EP 09794024 A EP09794024 A EP 09794024A EP 09794024 A EP09794024 A EP 09794024A EP 2303045 B1 EP2303045 B1 EP 2303045B1
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Prior art keywords
patch
article
armpit
fabric
transverse plane
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EP09794024A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP2303045A1 (en
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Anne-Laure Courvoisier
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Individual
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Individual
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/12—Shields or protectors
    • A41D27/13—Under-arm shields

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the protection and / or axillary strengthening of an article of clothing, including but not limited to protection against body secretions emitted in the armpits. It relates more particularly to an axillary piece intended to be incorporated inside an article of clothing in the area thereof which is intended to be facing the armpits of the user.
  • the solution consisted of absorbing perspiration before it came into contact with the garment by placing between the garment and the underarm area of the user an absorbent protective piece.
  • a disposable absorbent pad which is composed of two thin sheets which are thermo-welded together around their peripheral edges and between which is arranged at least one thin sheet of absorbent material.
  • the foliage which is intended to be placed in contact with the skin is a permeable sheet consisting of entangled fibers while the sheet which is placed in contact with the garment on the inside thereof is an impervious sheet of fusible material.
  • the perspiration can pass through the first permeable sheet, be absorbed by the sheet or sheets of absorbent material and be prevented from migrating to the garment through the presence of the impermeable sheet.
  • the pad for absorbing perspiration under the arms is composed of two crescent-shaped parts whose sides of smaller radius are identical, said parts being superimposed and assembled by thermo welding along said sides.
  • the lining in question has, at the fold of the armhole, a sharp edge corresponding to the assembly area of the two parts.
  • This sharp edge on the one hand creates a rigidity worn, which can be a nuisance for the wearer or make the piece perceptible / visible by others. This is particularly troublesome for fine clothes or very close to the body, for example a silk blouse, a small female top or a light cotton man's shirt.
  • the axillary protective piece is integral, with lateral pre-cuts, and a rectilinear fold line, extending between said cutouts.
  • the fold line forms a continuous edge which can be an inconvenience for the wearer.
  • this fold line, rectilinear is not adapted to the configuration of the garment at its armhole.
  • the document FR 2845870 also discloses an axillary piece according to the preamble of claim 1.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide an axillary piece that overcomes the aforementioned drawbacks and whatever the intended application for this piece. It can of course be a protective piece against the transfer visible for sweating, but it may also be for example a piece for the sole purpose of reinforcing the armpit area of the article, to prevent deformation, for example in the case of a suit jacket.
  • This axillary piece has a generally oblong shape, with a longitudinal plane of symmetry and a transverse plane intended to come substantially below the armhole line; it has, on both sides of said transverse plane, a front portion intended to come under the panel forming the arm of the article and a rear portion intended to come under the panel forming the bust of the article.
  • the axillary component of the present invention has a three-dimensional configuration without a ridge, the three-dimensional configuration consisting at least in that laterally, in close proximity to the transverse plane, the front and rear portions form two raised fins, each substantially configured according to a cone portion whose apex is substantially at the intersection of the longitudinal and transverse planes.
  • the axillary piece of the invention can perfectly marry, in a double ergonomics at the same time the curve of the armpit and the curve of the garment. , and this without any discomfort for the wearer of the garment.
  • the cone portion may be substantially a half-cone.
  • the generatrix of the cone portion may be rectilinear but may also be curved, especially so that in the transverse plane the axillary piece has a concave curvature.
  • the three-dimensional configuration further comprises that the piece has, in the longitudinal plane, a concave curvature having a determined angle ⁇ at the vertex.
  • the value of this angle is intended to allow the axillary protective piece to match the curve of the arm for its front part and the curve of the bust for its rear part.
  • the axillary protective piece of the invention is therefore perfectly ergonomic.
  • the angle at the top ⁇ is a function of the armhole type of the article of clothing.
  • the angle ⁇ 1 is of the order of 90 °, preferably equal to 87 °.
  • the angle ⁇ 2 is less than 90 °, preferably equal to 73 °.
  • Being a protective piece against axillary sweating it comprises at least one impervious outer layer and an absorbent layer; when it is incorporated inside the article of clothing, the outer layer is intended to come into contact with said article in the zone of the underarms.
  • the protective piece consists of a nonwoven material in an absorbent material whose hydrophobic treated face constitutes the impervious outer layer.
  • the outer layer consists of an impermeable or waterproof-breathable membrane, optionally covered externally with a textile layer or a nonwoven fabric.
  • the outer layer and the absorbent layer are assembled by any appropriate lamination technique.
  • the fabric in particular knitting, provides an intrinsic flexibility which favors the setting in three-dimensional configuration by thermoforming, especially when this presentation of the piece in the form of fabric is associated with the use of hot melt fibers and / or elastic (elastane).
  • the fabric in question is of the three-dimensional type, the two faces of which are formed by two walls spaced from one another and interconnected by connecting threads, which are at least partly storage wires.
  • the storage son are at least partly constituted by weft son inserted between the two faces of the fabric.
  • the impervious outer layer comprises a breathable waterproof membrane secured to the outer face of the fabric, in particular by sticking point by point, and possibly an outer layer, textile or nonwoven, secured to the breathable waterproof membrane by sticking point to point.
  • the initial panel comprising at least one heat-fusible material
  • the shaping is carried out by thermoforming or thermo-molding.
  • the workpiece is cut after the shaping operation.
  • the shaping is carried out by assembling, edge to edge, two portions of non-superposed pieces, along two concave edges of said portions, so that the assembly line passes through the intersection between the longitudinal and transverse planes of the room and forms a determined angle along the transverse plane, preferably this angle being of the order of 15 °.
  • the assembly in question is in particular made by flat seaming of the two edges facing each other.
  • the assembly is not done on the superposition of the two parts nor according to the fold line of the front and rear parts.
  • the assembly according to the aforementioned method allows the three-dimensional formatting of the two wings in relief and also the concave curvature of the workpiece along the longitudinal plane, through a judicious choice of the concavity of the concave edges of the two portions of the workpiece to be assembled.
  • said piece Being an axillary strengthening piece, it must allow the article of clothing to keep its shape in the area of the underarm after repeated use.
  • said piece has a certain shape memory, allowing it to recover its initial three-dimensional configuration despite the deformations that may occur due to the arm movements of the wearer, because of the perspiration of the wearer and the humidification of the garment, or during successive washings.
  • the joining of said parts to the article, permanently or removably, can be obtained in different ways.
  • the first way is to equip the article with two inner pockets, formed in the two armpit areas, each pocket being adapted to house an axillary room.
  • It may be a single pocket, but preferably it is a first and a second pocket whose openings vis-à-vis one another allow the introduction of the front part of the axillary part in the first pocket and the introduction of the rear part of the axillary part in the second pocket.
  • the or each pocket is formed by reporting on the determined area of the article a panel having high porosity, elasticity and good dimensional stability. It is indeed necessary that the pocket does not constitute a barrier to the transfer of body secretion to the protective piece and that said piece can be easily introduced into the pocket while being well maintained after introduction and without distending itself to wear.
  • a second way of securing the axillary part to the zone of the armpit of the article consists in fixing said part on said zone by gluing with the aid of an adhesive coating or possibly a coating or a thermo-film. adhesive, the latter being preferably thin and transparent and having a certain elasticity.
  • a third way consists in the implementation of a fastening system comprising a first element adapted to cooperate with a second element. It may in particular be a self-fastening hook and loop fastening system type Velcro® or a magnetic fastening system.
  • the first element of the system is disposed in the armpit area of the article while the second element is disposed on the outside of the axillary component.
  • a protective assembly which comprises firstly an axillary piece as described in the various variants above and a pocket adapted to receive said axillary piece and adapted to be fixed on the zone of the armpit of an article of clothing, the fixing being able to be in particular carried out adhesively or thermally adhesive.
  • the present invention relates generally to the protection and / or strengthening of the underarm area or axillary area of an article of clothing. It relates more particularly to the axillary protection against perspiration or perspiration emitted when wearing the article.
  • the room axillary of the present invention has a three-dimensional configuration without edges.
  • This configuration appears explicitly in the examination of the figure 5 .
  • the piece 20 has a generally oblong shape, with a longitudinal plane of symmetry L and a transverse plane D, the latter being intended to come substantially below the armhole line of the article.
  • the lines of intersection respectively 22 and 23 of the longitudinal L and transverse D planes with the internal face 20a of the part, that is to say the face which is closest to the user have been represented by dotted lines, as opposed to the outer face 20b which is intended to come into contact with the article.
  • These two lines 22 and 23 intersect at a point of intersection 24.
  • the transverse plane D delimits, in the piece 20, a front portion 25 and a rear portion 26.
  • the front portion is intended to come, internally to the article 28, above the arm 27 of the article in an area which, when worn, is under the wearer's arm.
  • the rear portion 26 is intended to come against the body 29 of the article in an area which, when worn, is close to the bust of the wearer.
  • the three-dimensional configuration of the axillary piece consists at least in that laterally, in the immediate vicinity of the transverse plane D, the front 25 and rear 26 parts form two raised fins 30, 31, each being substantially configured according to a portion of cone whose vertex is substantially at the intersection 24 of longitudinal L and transverse plane D.
  • the generatrix of the cone portion forming the fins 30, 31 is not necessarily rectilinear but can be curved, so that the line 23 overall has a concave curvature, like the curvature of the armhole line between the arm 27 and the bust 29 of article 28.
  • Each fin 30, 31 corresponds to a cone portion which is at most one half-cone, in particular of the order of a quarter of a cone, delimiting, along the corresponding edge of the piece, an arc of a circle, extending between the points referenced 31a, 31b on the figure 5 , whose apex angle is therefore equal to or generally less than 180 °, or even of the order of 90 °.
  • the axillary piece 20 has between the front and rear portions 26 a concave curvature having a defined radius of curvature and angle ⁇ at the vertex.
  • the apex angle ⁇ 2 is of the order of 90.degree. for an axillary piece adapted to armhole type "sleeve mounted" (jacket, shirt), the angle ⁇ 1 is less than 90 °, preferably of the order of 70 to 75 °. In a preferred embodiment, ⁇ 2 was equal to 87 ° and ⁇ 1 equal to 73 °.
  • the axillary piece 20 retains or resumes this three-dimensional configuration when the garment is worn and is flexible enough to accompany the movements of the arm.
  • the three-dimensional configuration is advantageously obtained by a thermoforming or thermoforming operation from a male form or mold and from a female form or mold, equipped with heating and pressure means.
  • the two forms or molds are placed between the two shapes or molds and heat-compressed between them at a temperature and for a predetermined period of time, ie a pre-cutting of the workpiece depending on the final shape, or an initial panel, for example rectangular, comprising all the constituents of said room.
  • the desired thermo-fuse deformation is thus obtained.
  • it is a pre-cut, it has an oblong shape completed laterally by excrescences which, after thermoforming, will constitute the two fins. In the case where one starts from an initial panel, the cutting of the part occurs after the thermoforming operation.
  • the axillary piece 1 is a piece of protection against sweating or perspiration emitted by the body of the user in the area of the armpit.
  • the principle of this protection is to ensure that the protective part captures and stores, in an absorbent layer, the secretion emitted while avoiding, thanks to an external and impermeable layer, that this secretion can migrate and moisten stain and / or discolor the article of clothing.
  • the protective piece 1 of the present invention consists only of a fabric 2 which is said to be of three-dimensional or 3D type in that it comprises two walls 3 and 6 which are both formed of intertwined threads, by example of the first warp threads 4 and the first weft threads 5 for the first wall 3 and the second warp threads 7 and the second weft threads 8 for the second wall 6, the two said walls 3 and 6 being interconnected by a set 9 of connecting son, for example son 10 which in the particularly simplified example, illustrated in FIG. figure 1 , pass alternately over some of the first warp threads 4 of the first wall 3 and underneath some of the second warp threads 7 of the second wall 6.
  • the first wall 3, also called internal wall of the fabric, is the one which is intended to be the closest to the wearer of the article.
  • the inner wall 3 comprises son 4, 5, which are able to ensure the absorption of moisture from the secretion and / or the transfer of this moisture to the assembly 9 of the son of connection.
  • This set 9 comprises son in an absorbent material, so as to be able to ensure the storage at least momentary moisture contained in the secretion.
  • the outer wall 6 comprises threads which are made of a synthetic material and which are interwoven so as to obtain a moisture barrier effect contained in the assembly 9 of the connecting threads.
  • the moisture transfer function of the inner wall 3 is achieved by the implementation of son that contain fibers or multilobed filaments, improved moisture transfer, including COOLMAX® fibers.
  • said fibers or filaments comprise longitudinal channels acting as capillaries, through which the moisture migrates.
  • the moisture storage function of the assembly 9 of the connecting son is ensured by the implementation of bamboo viscose-based yarns which are known for their high absorption capacity and also for their bacteriostatic properties, particularly welcome considering that it is to absorb body secretions.
  • the moisture barrier function of the outer wall 6 is obtained by the implementation of polyester-based son, preferably hydrophobic treated.
  • the transpiration emitted by the armpit comes into contact with the inner wall 3, it diffuses by capillarity along the son 4, 5 to reach the connecting son which are at said wall 3 so that the moisture in question is absorbed gradually, by pumping effect, by the assembly 9 of connecting son.
  • the outer wall 6 it prevents the moisture stored in the assembly 9 to diffuse directly on the determined area of the article of clothing against which it is in contact.
  • the pumping effect mentioned above improves the comfort of the user who no longer has the sensation of having wet underarms, moisture being rapidly removed in the assembly 9 acting as a storage area.
  • the fabric 2 however, having a certain porosity, if there is sufficient air circulation, the moisture stored in said fabric 2 can gradually be removed as moist air passing through the outer wall 6.
  • the amount of secretions is important or possibly to reduce the thickness of the fabric, it is preferable to reinforce the moisture barrier effect of the outer wall 6 so as to avoid any risk of piercing of said wall.
  • This reinforcement can be implemented by applying to the outer wall 6 a suitable treatment agent, for example a waterproofing agent.
  • a suitable treatment agent for example a waterproofing agent.
  • the protective piece 11 also comprises a breathable waterproof membrane 12 which is secured to the outer wall 6.
  • a membrane 12 provides the desired moisture barrier effect while having sufficient porosity to allow the circulation of air which is useful for preventing a localized heating of the space between the workpiece 11 and the body of the wearer, heating which may increase perspiration, and which is also necessary for extracting the moisture contained in the fabric 2.
  • the joining technique between the breathable waterproof membrane 12 and the outer wall 6 must allow the membrane to retain its porosity.
  • a point-by-point bonding of the hot-melt type is used.
  • the figure 3 illustrates a third example of a protective piece 13 which differs from the second example by the fastening on the membrane mac breathable 12 of an outer layer 14, which may be a light textile or a nonwoven, on the outside of which is applied an adhesive 15 protected by a non-stick sheet 16.
  • the protective part 13 can be implemented directly by the user. It suffices for the latter to remove the non-stick sheet 16 and to apply the adhesive 15 against the inner face of the armpit area 25 of an article of clothing 28.
  • an outer layer 14 is justified whenever there is a risk of degradation or delamination of the membrane, either during the production of the protective part or during its use in the article. clothing. This is particularly the case when the three-dimensional configuration of the part is obtained by thermoforming, the outer layer forming a protection of the membrane preventing it from coming into direct contact with the inner surface of the mold.
  • the implementation of this outer layer also has the advantage of avoiding any wear, related to the friction with the garment, which would make the axillary piece perceptible by others. This advantage is important because it allows greater discretion to the worn, which is a primary requirement for users.
  • the angle ⁇ is of the order of 90 °, more precisely in the example illustrated it is 87 °.
  • the value D1 of the projection of the front part 25 is of the order of 53 mm while the value D2 the projection of the rear portion 26 is 71mm.
  • the values of D1 and ⁇ 1 would remain the same while the value D2 of the projection of the rear portion 26 would be increased, being for example 85 mm.
  • the value of the projection of the intersection line 23 would be for a women's clothing of 61 mm and for a men's clothing of 80 mm. Of course these values are given as an indication.
  • FIG 9 On the figure 9 is represented an axillary piece 40 whose three-dimensional configuration is obtained by assembling two pieces of pieces 41, 42 which are assembled by a flat seam, edge to edge. More precisely, it is represented on this same figure 9 , the two sections of parts 41, 42, arranged face to face, before assembly. It can be seen that these two sections both have a concave edge 41a, 42a of the same dimensions and concavity. On the other hand, the two sections themselves are not symmetrical with respect to the axis of symmetry XX 'of the concave edges 41a, 42b.
  • the assembly of these two sections 41, 42 is done by a flat seam 43 according to the two concave edges 41a, 42a along the entire length thereof which are brought closer to one another gradually during sewing.
  • This operation makes it possible to obtain a formatting of the same type as that obtained at the figure 5 .
  • the seam line 43 passes through the intersection 24 of the longitudinal L and transverse plane D, said seam line 43 making a determined angle, preferably of the order of 15 ° with respect to the line of intersection 23 with the transverse plane D.
  • the axillary piece is housed in two pockets 50, 51 which are formed on the inside of the garment, on either side of the armhole line so that their respective openings 50a, 51a are in vis-à-vis.
  • the smaller pocket 50 serves as a housing for the front portion 25 while the larger pocket 51 serves as a housing for the rear portion 26 of the room 20.
  • the inner dimensions of the two pockets are slightly oversized relative to the outer dimensions axillary piece 20 so as to allow its positioning without too much difficulty.
  • pockets 50, 51 are for example fixed by gluing in a peripheral zone 50b, 51b, delimited on the figure 7 by dots.
  • the front edge, along the opening, of each pocket has a concave curvature so as to adapt to the configuration of the armhole.
  • the axillary piece 20 is perfectly held in place being somehow trapped in these two pockets, any relative movement of the piece in a pocket pushing the room at the bottom of the other pocket.
  • a textile panel is used, in particular a grid or openwork knit, in particular tulle or honeycomb, having a high porosity and a certain elasticity and a good dimensional stability, so as to on the one hand that the pockets do not constitute a barrier to the transfer of perspiration or perspiration emitted by the body of the user to the axillary piece 20 and secondly that said piece can be introduced easily into the pocket while being well maintained and without distending itself to wear, said pocket not constituting a constraint of deformation of the three-dimensional configuration of the part.
  • the assembly constituted by the pocket or pockets and the piece may be proposed as a protective or reinforcing assembly, provided that the pocket (s) are capable of being fixed on the armpit area of the article of clothing, this fixing that can be made in particular by adhesive or thermo-adhesive.
  • the piece integral with the article of clothing there are other ways to make the piece integral with the article of clothing. This can be done by a final fixing of the piece on the article by gluing with the aid of an adhesive coating or possibly a coating or a thermo adhesive film. Preferably, in the latter case, the film must be thin and transparent and have a certain elasticity. It is this embodiment which is illustrated in the third example described above, in connection with the figure 3 .
  • the attachment of the piece can also be removable by using in particular a removable fastening system implementing a first integral element of the workpiece, on the outer face thereof, and a second element integral with the article d ' clothing, the two said elements being able to cooperate with each other for a removable attachment.
  • a removable fastening system implementing a first integral element of the workpiece, on the outer face thereof, and a second element integral with the article d ' clothing, the two said elements being able to cooperate with each other for a removable attachment.
  • Velcro® loop and hook elements of the type of self-gripping system
  • other removable fastening systems can be used, whether by snap, magnetization system or double-sided adhesive.
  • This use of the axillary three-dimensional configuration of the present invention is not the only one.
  • it can serve as reinforcement to maintain the shape of the armpit area of a garment after repeated use of it.
  • the part is not necessarily constituted by an absorbent layer and an impermeable layer.
  • she must have a memory of sufficient shape to find, at rest, the three-dimensional configuration that it initially possesses in spite of the deformations engendered by the repeated use. This is particularly the case by using a sufficient proportion of hot melt materials, for example of the order of 30 to 50% by weight, and carrying out the three-dimensional configuration by thermoforming.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)

Description

La présente invention concerne la protection et/ou le renforcement axillaire d'un article d'habillement, notamment mais non exclusivement la protection contre les sécrétions corporelles émises au niveau des aisselles. Elle concerne plus particulièrement une pièce axillaire destinée à être incorporée à l'intérieur d'un article d'habillement dans la zone de celui-ci qui est destinée à être en regard avec les aisselles de l'utilisateur.The present invention relates to the protection and / or axillary strengthening of an article of clothing, including but not limited to protection against body secretions emitted in the armpits. It relates more particularly to an axillary piece intended to be incorporated inside an article of clothing in the area thereof which is intended to be facing the armpits of the user.

On a depuis très longtemps cherché à se protéger des effets négatifs de la transpiration axillaire, se manifestant souvent par des odeurs désagréables et, sur le vêtement, par des traces d'humidité voire des auréoles dans la zone des dessous de bras. Pour s'en protéger, on utilise des déodorants ou des anti-transpirants, mais ceux-ci peuvent altérer le vêtement par dégradation chimique ou de couleurs. De tels effets négatifs apparaissent dans de multiples conditions : lorsqu'il fait chaud, lors d'activités ou d'efforts physiques, lors d'un stress ou d'une anxiété, lors d'une prise de médicaments ou lors de changements (menstruation, grossesse, allaitement, ménopause) ou de déséquilibres hormonaux ou simplement lorsqu'une personne présente une surcharge pondérale. Ces effets sont variables d'une personne à l'autre. Certaines présentent une transpiration faible, alors que d'autres souffrent en permanence d'hyper sudation ou d'hyper hydrose : la quantité de sueur dégagée par chaque aisselle peut varier de 0,6 cl à 5 cl/jour, voire davantage.For a very long time, we have sought to protect ourselves from the negative effects of axillary perspiration, which is often manifested by unpleasant odors and, on clothing, by traces of moisture or even halos in the zone of the underarms. To protect themselves, deodorants or antiperspirants are used, but these can alter the garment by chemical or color degradation. Such negative effects occur in a variety of conditions: during hot weather, during physical activity or exercise, during stress or anxiety, when taking medication, or during changes (menstruation). pregnancy, breastfeeding, menopause) or hormonal imbalances or simply when a person is overweight. These effects vary from person to person. Some have low sweating, while others have permanent hyper-sweating or hyper-hydrosis: the amount of sweat released by each armpit can range from 0.6 cl to 5 cl / day or more.

Pour protéger le vêtement, la solution a consisté à absorber la sudation avant qu'elle ne vienne en contact avec le vêtement en disposant entre le vêtement et la zone des aisselles de l'utilisateur une pièce protectrice absorbante. Par exemple dans le document FR.2.098.996 , il s'agit d'une garniture absorbante, à jeter après usage, qui est composée de deux feuilles minces qui sont assemblées par thermo soudage selon leurs bords périphériques et entre lesquels est disposée au moins une feuille mince en une matière absorbante. La feuillé qui est destinée à être placée au contact de la peau est une feuille perméable constituée par des fibres enchevêtrées tandis que la feuille qui est placée au contact du vêtement sur l'intérieur de celui-ci est une feuille imperméable en matière fusible. Ainsi la transpiration peut passer à travers la première feuille perméable, être absorbée par la ou les feuilles en matière absorbante et être empêchée de migrer vers le vêtement grâce à la présence de la feuille imperméable.To protect the garment, the solution consisted of absorbing perspiration before it came into contact with the garment by placing between the garment and the underarm area of the user an absorbent protective piece. For example in the document FR.2.098.996 it is a disposable absorbent pad which is composed of two thin sheets which are thermo-welded together around their peripheral edges and between which is arranged at least one thin sheet of absorbent material. The foliage which is intended to be placed in contact with the skin is a permeable sheet consisting of entangled fibers while the sheet which is placed in contact with the garment on the inside thereof is an impervious sheet of fusible material. Thus, the perspiration can pass through the first permeable sheet, be absorbed by the sheet or sheets of absorbent material and be prevented from migrating to the garment through the presence of the impermeable sheet.

Dans le document FR.2.098.996 la garniture destinée à absorber la transpiration sous les bras est composée de deux pièces en forme de croissant dont les côtés de plus petit rayon sont identiques, lesdites pièces étant superposées et assemblées par thermo soudure le long desdits côtés. Comme cela ressort clairement des figures 1 et 3 de ce document, la garniture en question présente, à la pliure de l'emmanchure, une arête vive correspondant à la zone d'assemblage des deux pièces.In the document FR.2.098.996 the pad for absorbing perspiration under the arms is composed of two crescent-shaped parts whose sides of smaller radius are identical, said parts being superimposed and assembled by thermo welding along said sides. As is clear from the Figures 1 and 3 of this document, the lining in question has, at the fold of the armhole, a sharp edge corresponding to the assembly area of the two parts.

Cette arête vive d'une part crée une rigidité au porté, ce qui peut constituer une gêne pour le porteur ou rendre la pièce perceptible/visible par autrui. Ceci est particulièrement gênant pour des vêtements fins ou très près du corps, par exemple un chemisier en soie, un petit haut féminin ou encore une chemise d'homme en coton léger.This sharp edge on the one hand creates a rigidity worn, which can be a nuisance for the wearer or make the piece perceptible / visible by others. This is particularly troublesome for fine clothes or very close to the body, for example a silk blouse, a small female top or a light cotton man's shirt.

Dans le document EP.0.322.309 , la pièce protectrice axillaire est d'un seul tenant, avec des prédécoupes latérales, et une ligne de pliage rectiligne, s'étendant entre lesdites découpes. Lors de la mise en place de cette pièce dans le vêtement, la ligne de pliage forme une arête continue qui peut constituer une gêne pour le porteur. De plus cette ligne de pliage, rectiligne, n'est pas adaptée à la configuration du vêtement au niveau de son emmanchure. Ces prédécoupes et pliage ont pour vocation d'aider l'utilisateur dans la mise en place, mais génèrent une raideur au niveau de l'emmanchure, un inconfort et une visibilité possibles. Par ailleurs, ces prédécoupes amputent la pièce axillaire de matière absorbantes là où on en a le plus besoin, à savoir à la jonction emmanchure/corps du vêtement ou à la jonction bras/aisselles/bustes.In the document EP.0.322.309 , the axillary protective piece is integral, with lateral pre-cuts, and a rectilinear fold line, extending between said cutouts. When placing this piece in the garment, the fold line forms a continuous edge which can be an inconvenience for the wearer. In addition, this fold line, rectilinear, is not adapted to the configuration of the garment at its armhole. These precuts and folding are intended to help the user in the establishment, but generate a stiffness in the armhole, discomfort and visibility possible. Moreover, these pre-cuts amputate the axillary piece of absorbent material where it is most needed, namely at the armhole junction / body of the garment or at the junction arm / underarm / busts.

Le document FR 2845870 divulgue aussi une pièce axillaire selon le préambule de la revendication 1.The document FR 2845870 also discloses an axillary piece according to the preamble of claim 1.

Le but visé par la présente invention est de proposer une pièce axillaire qui pallie les inconvénients précités et ce quelle que soit l'application visée pour cette pièce. Il peut bien sûr s'agir d'une pièce protectrice contre le transfert visible de la sudation, mais il peut aussi s'agir par exemple d'une pièce ayant pour but le seul renforcement de la zone de l'aisselle de l'article, pour en éviter la déformation, s'agissant par exemple d'une veste de costume.The object of the present invention is to provide an axillary piece that overcomes the aforementioned drawbacks and whatever the intended application for this piece. It can of course be a protective piece against the transfer visible for sweating, but it may also be for example a piece for the sole purpose of reinforcing the armpit area of the article, to prevent deformation, for example in the case of a suit jacket.

Cette pièce axillaire a une forme générale oblongue, avec un plan longitudinal de symétrie et un plan transversal destinés à venir sensiblement sous la ligne d'emmanchure ; elle présente, de part et d'autre dudit plan transversal, une partie avant destinée à venir sous le panneau formant le bras de l'article et une partie arrière destinée à venir sous le panneau formant le buste de l'article.This axillary piece has a generally oblong shape, with a longitudinal plane of symmetry and a transverse plane intended to come substantially below the armhole line; it has, on both sides of said transverse plane, a front portion intended to come under the panel forming the arm of the article and a rear portion intended to come under the panel forming the bust of the article.

De manière caractéristique, la pièce axillaire de la présente invention a une configuration tridimensionnelle sans arête, la configuration tridimensionnelle consistant au moins en ce que latéralement, à proximité immédiate du plan transversal, les parties avant et arrière forment deux ailettes en relief, chacune étant sensiblement configurée selon une portion de cône dont le sommet est sensiblement à l'intersection des plans longitudinal et transversal.Typically, the axillary component of the present invention has a three-dimensional configuration without a ridge, the three-dimensional configuration consisting at least in that laterally, in close proximity to the transverse plane, the front and rear portions form two raised fins, each substantially configured according to a cone portion whose apex is substantially at the intersection of the longitudinal and transverse planes.

Ainsi grâce à la présence des deux ailettes en relief, et à l'absence de toute arête vive, la pièce axillaire de l'invention peut parfaitement épouser, dans une double ergonomie à la fois la courbe de l'aisselle et la courbe du vêtement, et ceci sans aucune gêne pour le porteur du vêtement.Thus, thanks to the presence of the two wings in relief, and to the absence of any sharp edge, the axillary piece of the invention can perfectly marry, in a double ergonomics at the same time the curve of the armpit and the curve of the garment. , and this without any discomfort for the wearer of the garment.

La portion de cône peut être sensiblement un demi-cône.The cone portion may be substantially a half-cone.

La génératrice de la portion de cône peut être rectiligne mais peut aussi être courbe, notamment en sorte que selon le plan transversal la pièce axillaire présente une courbure concave.The generatrix of the cone portion may be rectilinear but may also be curved, especially so that in the transverse plane the axillary piece has a concave curvature.

Selon une variante de réalisation, la configuration tridimensionnelle consiste de plus en ce que la pièce présente, selon le plan longitudinal, une courbure concave ayant un angle au sommet α déterminé. La valeur de cet angle est destinée à permettre à la pièce protectrice axillaire d'épouser la courbe du bras pour sa partie avant et la courbe du buste pour sa partie arrière. La pièce protectrice axillaire de l'invention est donc parfaitement ergonomique. L'angle au sommet α est fonction du type d'emmanchure de l'article d'habillement. S'agissant d'articles ayant une emmanchure en T, notamment articles de sport du type t-shirt ou sweat-shirt, l'angle α1 est de l'ordre de 90°, de préférence égal à 87°. Pour un article de ville, notamment chemisier, veste de tailleur, l'angle α2 est inférieur à 90°, de préférence égal à 73°.According to an alternative embodiment, the three-dimensional configuration further comprises that the piece has, in the longitudinal plane, a concave curvature having a determined angle α at the vertex. The value of this angle is intended to allow the axillary protective piece to match the curve of the arm for its front part and the curve of the bust for its rear part. The axillary protective piece of the invention is therefore perfectly ergonomic. The angle at the top α is a function of the armhole type of the article of clothing. For articles having a T-armhole, in particular sports articles of the t-shirt or sweatshirt type, the angle α1 is of the order of 90 °, preferably equal to 87 °. For an article of city, in particular blouse, suit jacket, the angle α2 is less than 90 °, preferably equal to 73 °.

S'agissant d'une pièce protectrice contre la sudation axillaire, elle comporte au moins une couche externe imperméable et une couche absorbante ; lors de son incorporation à l'intérieur de l'article d'habillement, la couche externe est destinée à venir en contact avec ledit article dans la zone des dessous de bras.Being a protective piece against axillary sweating, it comprises at least one impervious outer layer and an absorbent layer; when it is incorporated inside the article of clothing, the outer layer is intended to come into contact with said article in the zone of the underarms.

Dans une variante de réalisation, la pièce protectrice consiste en un non-tissé dans un matériau absorbant dont une face traitée hydrophobe constitue la couche externe imperméable.In an alternative embodiment, the protective piece consists of a nonwoven material in an absorbent material whose hydrophobic treated face constitutes the impervious outer layer.

Selon une autre variante de réalisation, la couche externe est constituée d'une membrane imperméable ou imper-respirante, éventuellement recouverte extérieurement d'une couche textile ou d'un non-tissé. Dans ce cas la couche externe et la couche absorbante sont assemblées par toute technique appropriée de complexage.According to another variant embodiment, the outer layer consists of an impermeable or waterproof-breathable membrane, optionally covered externally with a textile layer or a nonwoven fabric. In this case, the outer layer and the absorbent layer are assembled by any appropriate lamination technique.

Avantageusement, selon une autre version de réalisation, ce complexage peut être complété ou obtenu par une soudure ultra-sons en périphérie des couches externe et absorbante. La soudure périphérique par ultra-sons présente de multiples avantages. Elle permet :

  • de préserver la qualité de la pièce axillaire contre les dégradations liées au porté et au lavage, notamment les risques d'effilochage,
  • elle a une fonction anti-fuites : la consolidation scelle les bords et permet d'éviter le transfert d'humidité autour de la pièce,
  • elle a une fonction esthétique : elle permet de maintenir dans le temps la perception de finesse de l'article, notamment en ce qui concerne la version féminine selon laquelle la soudure est de préférence réalisée par une sonotrode en forme de molette qui festonne le bord de la pièce.
  • de renforcer la solidarité des couches constitutives de la pièce et leur non-dislocation au porté.
Advantageously, according to another embodiment, this complexing may be completed or obtained by ultrasonic welding at the periphery of the outer and absorbent layers. Ultrasonic peripheral welding has many advantages. She permits :
  • to preserve the quality of the axillary piece against damage related to the worn and the washing, in particular the risks of fraying,
  • it has an anti-leak function: the consolidation seals the edges and avoids the transfer of moisture around the room,
  • it has an aesthetic function: it allows to maintain in time the perception of finesse of the article, especially with regard to the female version according to which the welding is preferably performed by a wheel-shaped sonotrode which scallops the edge of the room.
  • to reinforce the solidarity of the constituent layers of the piece and their non-dislocation to the worn.

Selon une autre variante de réalisation, la pièce protectrice comprend une étoffe, notamment un tricot, comprenant deux faces espacées l'une de l'autre, formées de fils entrelacés et reliées entre elles. Dans ce cas :

  • la face externe de l'étoffe fait office au moins en partie de couche externe imperméable et comprend des fils dans un matériau synthétique,
  • l'étoffe comprend des fils dits de stockage, dans un matériau absorbant, étant aptes à assurer le stockage de l'humidité et n'étant pas ou étant peu apparents sur la face externe,
  • la face interne de l'étoffe, c'est-à-dire celle qui est destinée à être le plus proche du porteur de l'article, comprend des fils aptes à assurer l'absorption et/ou le transfert de l'humidité vers les fils de stockage.
According to another variant embodiment, the protective piece comprises a fabric, in particular a knit fabric, comprising two mutually spaced faces made of intertwined threads and interconnected. In that case :
  • the outer face of the fabric functions at least in part as an impermeable outer layer and comprises yarns in a synthetic material,
  • the fabric comprises so-called storage yarns, in an absorbent material, being able to ensure the storage of the moisture and not being or being little apparent on the outer face,
  • the inner face of the fabric, that is to say that which is intended to be closest to the wearer of the article, comprises son able to ensure the absorption and / or transfer of moisture to the storage wires.

L'avantage de cette dernière variante est de simplifier la fabrication de la pièce protectrice, toutes les fonctions remplies par ladite pièce étant obtenues par une seule étoffe grâce à une sélection précise des fils constitutifs de celle-ci.The advantage of this latter variant is to simplify the manufacture of the protective part, all the functions performed by said part being obtained by a single fabric thanks to a precise selection of the constituent son thereof.

Il est à noter que l'étoffe, notamment le tricot, apporte une souplesse intrinsèque qui favorise la mise en configuration tridimensionnelle par thermoformage, notamment lorsque cette présentation de la pièce sous forme d'étoffe est associée à l'utilisation de fibres thermofusibles et/ou élastiques (élasthanne).It should be noted that the fabric, in particular knitting, provides an intrinsic flexibility which favors the setting in three-dimensional configuration by thermoforming, especially when this presentation of the piece in the form of fabric is associated with the use of hot melt fibers and / or elastic (elastane).

Dans un premier mode de réalisation, l'étoffe en question est du type tridimensionnel, dont les deux faces sont formées par deux parois espacées l'une de l'autre et reliées entre elles par des fils de liaison, lesquels sont au moins en partie des fils de stockage.In a first embodiment, the fabric in question is of the three-dimensional type, the two faces of which are formed by two walls spaced from one another and interconnected by connecting threads, which are at least partly storage wires.

Dans un second mode de réalisation les fils de stockage sont au moins en partie constitués par des fils de trame insérés entre les deux faces de l'étoffe.In a second embodiment the storage son are at least partly constituted by weft son inserted between the two faces of the fabric.

Avantageusement dans ces modes de réalisation, afin de renforcer la fonction de barrière de la face externe, la couche externe imperméable comprend une membrane imper respirante solidarisée à la face externe de l'étoffe, notamment par collage point par point, et éventuellement une couche extérieure, textile ou non tissée, solidarisée à la membrane imper respirante par collage point à point.Advantageously in these embodiments, in order to reinforce the barrier function of the outer face, the impervious outer layer comprises a breathable waterproof membrane secured to the outer face of the fabric, in particular by sticking point by point, and possibly an outer layer, textile or nonwoven, secured to the breathable waterproof membrane by sticking point to point.

C'est un autre objet de la présente invention que de proposer un procédé de fabrication d'une pièce axillaire, pour un article d'habillement, présentant les caractéristiques précitées. Ce procédé comprend les opérations suivantes :

  • prendre un panneau initial textile ou non-tissé,
  • découper dans ledit panneau initial une pièce ayant une forme générale oblongue, avec un plan longitudinal de symétrie et un plan transversal, ce dernier étant destiné à venir sensiblement sous la ligne d'emmanchure de l'article, et avec, de part et d'autre dudit plan transversal, une partie avant destinée à venir sous le panneau de l'article formant le bras et une partie arrière destinée à venir sous le panneau de l'article formant le buste,
  • mettre en forme le panneau initial, avant découpe, ou la pièce, après découpe, pour lui donner une configuration tridimensionnelle sans arête, ladite configuration tridimensionnelle consistant au moins en ce que latéralement, à proximité immédiate du plan transversal, les parties avant et arrière forment deux ailettes en relief, chacune étant sensiblement configurée selon une portion de cône dont le sommet est sensiblement à l'intersection des plans longitudinal et transversal.
It is another object of the present invention to provide a method of manufacturing an axillary piece for an article of clothing having the aforementioned characteristics. This process comprises the following operations:
  • take an initial panel textile or non-woven,
  • cutting into said initial panel a piece having a generally oblong shape, with a longitudinal plane of symmetry and a transverse plane, the latter being intended to come substantially below the armhole line of the article, and with, on the other hand, and other of said transverse plane, a front part intended to come under the panel of the article forming the arm and a rear part intended to come under the panel of the article forming the bust,
  • to shape the initial panel, before cutting, or the part, after cutting, to give it a three-dimensional configuration without edge, said three-dimensional configuration consisting at least in that laterally, in the immediate vicinity of the transverse plane, the front and rear parts form two fins in relief, each being substantially configured according to a cone portion whose apex is substantially at the intersection of the longitudinal and transverse planes.

Dans un mode préféré de réalisation, le panneau initial comportant au moins un matériau thermo-fusible, la mise en forme est réalisée par thermoformage ou thermo moulage. Dans le cas où l'opération de mise en forme est réalisée sur le panneau initial lui-même, la pièce est découpée après l'opération de mise en forme.In a preferred embodiment, the initial panel comprising at least one heat-fusible material, the shaping is carried out by thermoforming or thermo-molding. In the case where the shaping operation is performed on the initial panel itself, the workpiece is cut after the shaping operation.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation, la mise en forme est réalisée par assemblage, bord à bord, de deux portions de pièces non superposées, selon deux bords concaves desdites portions, de telle sorte que la ligne d'assemblage passe par l'intersection entre les plans longitudinal et transversal de la pièce et forme un angle déterminé selon le plan transversal, de préférence cet angle étant de l'ordre de 15°. L'assemblage en question est notamment réalisé par couture plate des deux bords face à face.In another embodiment, the shaping is carried out by assembling, edge to edge, two portions of non-superposed pieces, along two concave edges of said portions, so that the assembly line passes through the intersection between the longitudinal and transverse planes of the room and forms a determined angle along the transverse plane, preferably this angle being of the order of 15 °. The assembly in question is in particular made by flat seaming of the two edges facing each other.

Ainsi, contrairement à la garniture du document FR.2.098.986 , l'assemblage ne se fait pas sur la superposition des deux pièces ni selon la ligne de pliage des parties avant et arrière. L'assemblage selon le procédé précité permet la mise en forme tridimensionnelle des deux ailettes en relief et également la courbure concave de la pièce selon le plan longitudinal, grâce à un choix judicieux de la concavité des bords concaves des deux portions de pièce à assembler.So unlike the pad of the document FR.2.098.986 , the assembly is not done on the superposition of the two parts nor according to the fold line of the front and rear parts. The assembly according to the aforementioned method allows the three-dimensional formatting of the two wings in relief and also the concave curvature of the workpiece along the longitudinal plane, through a judicious choice of the concavity of the concave edges of the two portions of the workpiece to be assembled.

S'agissant d'une pièce axillaire de renforcement, elle doit permettre à l'article d'habillement de garder sa forme dans la zone du dessous de bras après un usage répété. De préférence, dans ce cas, ladite pièce présente une certaine mémoire de forme, lui permettant de retrouver sa configuration tridimensionnelle initiale malgré les déformations qui peuvent se produire du fait des mouvements de bras du porteur, du fait de la sudation du porteur et l'humidification du vêtement, ou lors des lavages successifs.Being an axillary strengthening piece, it must allow the article of clothing to keep its shape in the area of the underarm after repeated use. Preferably, in this case, said piece has a certain shape memory, allowing it to recover its initial three-dimensional configuration despite the deformations that may occur due to the arm movements of the wearer, because of the perspiration of the wearer and the humidification of the garment, or during successive washings.

C'est un autre objet de l'invention que de revendiquer un article d'habillement pourvu de deux pièces axillaires telles que décrites dans l'une ou l'autre des variantes ci-dessus. La solidarisation desdites pièces à l'article, de manière définitive ou amovible, peut être obtenue de différentes manières.It is another object of the invention to claim an article of clothing provided with two axillary pieces as described in one or other of the above variants. The joining of said parts to the article, permanently or removably, can be obtained in different ways.

La première manière consiste à équiper l'article de deux poches intérieures, formées dans les deux zones des aisselles, chaque poche étant apte à loger une pièce axillaire.The first way is to equip the article with two inner pockets, formed in the two armpit areas, each pocket being adapted to house an axillary room.

Il peut s'agir d'une poche unique, mais de préférence il s'agit d'une première et d'une seconde poches dont les ouvertures en vis-à-vis l'une de l'autre permettent l'introduction de la partie avant de la pièce axillaire dans la première poche et l'introduction de !a partie arrière de la pièce axillaire dans la seconde poche.It may be a single pocket, but preferably it is a first and a second pocket whose openings vis-à-vis one another allow the introduction of the front part of the axillary part in the first pocket and the introduction of the rear part of the axillary part in the second pocket.

Avantageusement, notamment lorsqu'il s'agit d'une pièce axillaire protectrice contre la sudation, la ou chaque poche est formée en rapportant sur la zone déterminée de l'article un panneau présentant une grande porosité, une certaine élasticité et une bonne stabilité dimensionnelle. Il convient en effet que la poche ne constitue pas une barrière au transfert de la sécrétion corporelle vers la pièce protectrice et que ladite pièce puisse s'introduire aisément dans la poche tout en étant bien maintenue après introduction et sans se distendre au porter.Advantageously, particularly when it is an axillary piece protecting against sweating, the or each pocket is formed by reporting on the determined area of the article a panel having high porosity, elasticity and good dimensional stability. It is indeed necessary that the pocket does not constitute a barrier to the transfer of body secretion to the protective piece and that said piece can be easily introduced into the pocket while being well maintained after introduction and without distending itself to wear.

Une deuxième manière de solidariser la pièce axillaire à la zone de l'aisselle de l'article consiste à fixer ladite pièce sur ladite zone par collage à l'aide d'une enduction adhésive ou éventuellement d'une enduction ou d'un film thermo adhésif, ce dernier étant de préférence fin et transparent et présentant une certaine élasticité.A second way of securing the axillary part to the zone of the armpit of the article consists in fixing said part on said zone by gluing with the aid of an adhesive coating or possibly a coating or a thermo-film. adhesive, the latter being preferably thin and transparent and having a certain elasticity.

Une troisième manière consiste dans la mise en oeuvre d'un système d'attache comprenant un premier élément apte à coopérer avec un second élément. Il peut notamment s'agir d'un système d'attache auto agrippant à crochets et à boucles de type Velcro® ou encore d'un système d'attache aimanté. Le premier élément du système est disposé dans la zone de l'aisselle de l'article tandis que le second élément est disposé sur l'extérieur de la pièce axillaire.A third way consists in the implementation of a fastening system comprising a first element adapted to cooperate with a second element. It may in particular be a self-fastening hook and loop fastening system type Velcro® or a magnetic fastening system. The first element of the system is disposed in the armpit area of the article while the second element is disposed on the outside of the axillary component.

C'est un autre objet de la présente invention que de proposer un ensemble protecteur qui comprend d'une part une pièce axillaire telle que décrite dans les différentes variantes ci-dessus et une poche apte à recevoir ladite pièce axillaire et apte à être fixée sur la zone de l'aisselle d'un article d'habillement, la fixation pouvant être notamment réalisée par voie adhésive ou thermo adhésive. Ainsi en se procurant un tel ensemble protecteur, l'utilisateur peut fixer ou faire fixer cet ensemble sur son article d'habillement à utiliser cet article avec ou sans la pièce axillaire selon le type d'activité qu'il envisage.It is another object of the present invention to provide a protective assembly which comprises firstly an axillary piece as described in the various variants above and a pocket adapted to receive said axillary piece and adapted to be fixed on the zone of the armpit of an article of clothing, the fixing being able to be in particular carried out adhesively or thermally adhesive. Thus, by procuring such a protective assembly, the user can fix or fix this set on his article of clothing to use this article with or without the axillary piece according to the type of activity that he envisages.

La présente invention sera mieux comprise à la lecture de la description qui va être faite ci-après de plusieurs exemples de réalisation de pièces axillaires de configuration tridimensionnelle et de leur fixation sur la zone de dessous de bras d'un vêtement, illustrés par les dessins annexés dans lesquels :

  • La figure 1 est une représentation schématique en coupe d'un premier exemple de pièce protectrice contre la sudation axillaire consistant exclusivement en une étoffe de type tridimensionnel ;
  • La figure 2 est une représentation schématique en coupe d'un deuxième exemple de pièce protectrice dans laquelle l'étoffe de type tridimensionnel est associée à une membrane imper respirante ;
  • La figure 3 est une représentation schématique en coupe d'un troisième exemple de pièce protectrice contre la sudation axillaire comportant de plus une couche extérieure et une enduction adhésive, protégée par une feuille anti-adhérente ;
  • La figure 4 est une représentation schématique de face de deux vêtements équipés de deux pièces axillaires, l'un à emmanchure en T et l'autre à emmanchure du type veste.
  • La figure 5 est une représentation schématique en perspective d'une pièce axillaire, mise en forme tri dimensionnellement par thermoformage, pour un vêtement à emmanchure en T ;
  • La figure 6 est une représentation schématique de côté de la pièce axillaire de la figure 5 ;
  • La figure 7 est une représentation schématique de deux poches aptes à servir de logements à une pièce axillaire et
  • La figure 8 est une représentation schématique en coupe d'un autre exemple de réalisation d'une pièce axillaire dont la fixation sur le vêtement intervient grâce à la mise en oeuvre d'un système d'attaches à crochets et à boucles et
  • La figure 9 est une représentation schématique en vue de dessus d'une pièce axillaire mise en forme tridimensionnellement par couture bord à bord.
The present invention will be better understood on reading the following description of several examples of embodiments of axillary pieces of three-dimensional configuration and their attachment to the underarm area of a garment, illustrated by the drawings. annexed in which:
  • The figure 1 is a schematic representation in section of a first example of a protective piece against axillary sweating consisting exclusively of a three-dimensional type of fabric;
  • The figure 2 is a schematic representation in section of a second example of a protective piece in which the three-dimensional type fabric is associated with a breathable waterproof membrane;
  • The figure 3 is a diagrammatic sectional representation of a third example of a protective piece against axillary sweating, which furthermore comprises an outer layer and an adhesive coating protected by a release sheet;
  • The figure 4 is a schematic front view of two garments equipped with two axillary pieces, one with T-armhole and the other armhole-type jacket.
  • The figure 5 is a schematic representation in perspective of an axillary piece, shaped three-dimensionally by thermoforming, for a T-shaped armor;
  • The figure 6 is a schematic side representation of the axillary piece of the figure 5 ;
  • The figure 7 is a schematic representation of two pockets able to serve as housing for an axillary room and
  • The figure 8 is a schematic representation in section of another embodiment of an axillary piece whose attachment to the garment intervenes through the implementation of a system of fasteners hooks and loops and
  • The figure 9 is a schematic representation in plan view of an axillary piece shaped three-dimensionally by edge-to-edge stitching.

La présente invention concerne de manière générale la protection et/ou le renforcement de la zone de dessous de bras ou zone axillaire d'un article d'habillement. Elle concerne plus particulièrement la protection axillaire contre la sudation ou transpiration émise lors du porter de l'article.The present invention relates generally to the protection and / or strengthening of the underarm area or axillary area of an article of clothing. It relates more particularly to the axillary protection against perspiration or perspiration emitted when wearing the article.

Pour éviter tout risque de gêne pour le porteur de l'article et pour adapter parfaitement cette pièce à la configuration de cette zone, la pièce axillaire de la présente invention présente une configuration tridimensionnelle sans arête. Cette configuration apparaît de manière explicite à l'examen de la figure 5. La pièce 20 a une forme générale oblongue, avec un plan longitudinal de symétrie L et un plan transversal D, ce dernier étant destiné à venir sensiblement sous la ligne d'emmanchure de l'article. Sur la figure 5 on a représenté par des pointillés les lignes d'intersection respectivement 22 et 23 des plans longitudinal L et transversal D avec la face interne 20a de la pièce, c'est-à-dire la face qui est la plus proche de l'utilisateur, par opposition à la face externe 20b qui est destinée à venir en contact avec l'article. Ces deux lignes 22 et 23 se coupent en un point d'intersection 24.To avoid any risk of discomfort for the wearer of the article and to perfectly adapt this room to the configuration of this area, the room axillary of the present invention has a three-dimensional configuration without edges. This configuration appears explicitly in the examination of the figure 5 . The piece 20 has a generally oblong shape, with a longitudinal plane of symmetry L and a transverse plane D, the latter being intended to come substantially below the armhole line of the article. On the figure 5 the lines of intersection respectively 22 and 23 of the longitudinal L and transverse D planes with the internal face 20a of the part, that is to say the face which is closest to the user, have been represented by dotted lines, as opposed to the outer face 20b which is intended to come into contact with the article. These two lines 22 and 23 intersect at a point of intersection 24.

Le plan transversal D délimite, dans la pièce 20, une partie avant 25 et une partie arrière 26. La partie avant est destinée à venir, intérieurement à l'article 28, au dessus du bras 27 de l'article dans une zone qui, lors du porté, est sous le bras du porteur. La partie arrière 26 est destinée à venir contre le corps 29 de l'article dans une zone qui, lors du porté, est à proximité du buste du porteur.The transverse plane D delimits, in the piece 20, a front portion 25 and a rear portion 26. The front portion is intended to come, internally to the article 28, above the arm 27 of the article in an area which, when worn, is under the wearer's arm. The rear portion 26 is intended to come against the body 29 of the article in an area which, when worn, is close to the bust of the wearer.

La configuration tridimensionnelle de la pièce axillaire consiste au moins en ce que latéralement, à proximité immédiate du plan transversal D, les parties avant 25 et arrière 26 forment deux ailettes en relief 30, 31, chacune étant sensiblement configurée selon une portion de cône dont le sommet est sensiblement à l'intersection 24 des plans longitudinal L et transversal D.The three-dimensional configuration of the axillary piece consists at least in that laterally, in the immediate vicinity of the transverse plane D, the front 25 and rear 26 parts form two raised fins 30, 31, each being substantially configured according to a portion of cone whose vertex is substantially at the intersection 24 of longitudinal L and transverse plane D.

Comme on peut le voir sur la figure 5, la génératrice de la portion de cône formant les ailettes 30, 31 n'est pas obligatoirement rectiligne mais peut être incurvée, de sorte que la ligne 23 présente globalement une courbure concave, à l'instar de la courbure de la ligne d'emmanchure entre le bras 27 et le buste 29 de l'article 28.As can be seen on the figure 5 , the generatrix of the cone portion forming the fins 30, 31 is not necessarily rectilinear but can be curved, so that the line 23 overall has a concave curvature, like the curvature of the armhole line between the arm 27 and the bust 29 of article 28.

Chaque ailette 30, 31, correspond à une portion de cône qui est au plus d'un demi cône, notamment de l'ordre d'un quart de cône, délimitant selon le bord correspondant de la pièce un arc de cercle, s'étendant entre les points référencés 31a, 31b sur la figure 5, dont l'angle au sommet est donc égal ou généralement inférieur à 180°, voire de l'ordre de 90°. Dans le plan longitudinal L, la pièce axillaire 20 présente entre les parties avant 25 et arrière 26 une courbure concave ayant un rayon de courbure et un angle α au sommet déterminés.Each fin 30, 31 corresponds to a cone portion which is at most one half-cone, in particular of the order of a quarter of a cone, delimiting, along the corresponding edge of the piece, an arc of a circle, extending between the points referenced 31a, 31b on the figure 5 , whose apex angle is therefore equal to or generally less than 180 °, or even of the order of 90 °. In the longitudinal plane L, the axillary piece 20 has between the front and rear portions 26 a concave curvature having a defined radius of curvature and angle α at the vertex.

S'agissant d'une pièce axillaire 20 pour un article ayant une emmanchure de type «emmanchure en T » (T-shirt, article de sport) 28, l'angle au sommet α2 est de l'ordre de 90°, tandis que pour une pièce axillaire adaptée à une emmanchure de type « manche montée » (veste, chemise), l'angle α1 est inférieur à 90°, de préférence de l'ordre de 70 à 75°. Dans un exemple préféré de réalisation, α2 était égal à 87° et α1 égal à 73°. La pièce axillaire 20 garde ou reprend cette configuration tridimensionnelle lorsque le vêtement est porté et est suffisamment souple pour accompagner les mouvements du bras.Being an axillary piece 20 for an article having an armhole of "T-shirt" type (T-shirt, article of sport) 28, the apex angle α2 is of the order of 90.degree. for an axillary piece adapted to armhole type "sleeve mounted" (jacket, shirt), the angle α1 is less than 90 °, preferably of the order of 70 to 75 °. In a preferred embodiment, α2 was equal to 87 ° and α1 equal to 73 °. The axillary piece 20 retains or resumes this three-dimensional configuration when the garment is worn and is flexible enough to accompany the movements of the arm.

Lorsque la pièce axillaire comporte une proportion suffisante de matériau thermo-fusible, par exemple de 30 à 50% en poids, la configuration tridimensionnelle est avantageusement obtenue par une opération de thermoformage ou thermo moulage à partir d'une forme ou moule mâle et d'une forme ou moule femelle, équipées de moyens de chauffage et pression. On place entre les deux formes ou moules et on comprime à chaud entre celles-ci à une température et pendant une durée déterminée soit une pré-découpe de la pièce fonction de la forme finale, soit un panneau initial, par exemple rectangulaire, comprenant tous les constituants de ladite pièce. On obtient ainsi la déformation thermo-fusible souhaitée. S'agissant d'une pré-découpe, elle a une forme oblongue complétée latéralement par des excroissances qui, après thermoformage, constitueront les deux ailettes. Dans le cas où on part d'un panneau initial, la découpe de la pièce intervient après l'opération de thermoformage.When the axillary part comprises a sufficient proportion of heat-fusible material, for example from 30 to 50% by weight, the three-dimensional configuration is advantageously obtained by a thermoforming or thermoforming operation from a male form or mold and from a female form or mold, equipped with heating and pressure means. The two forms or molds are placed between the two shapes or molds and heat-compressed between them at a temperature and for a predetermined period of time, ie a pre-cutting of the workpiece depending on the final shape, or an initial panel, for example rectangular, comprising all the constituents of said room. The desired thermo-fuse deformation is thus obtained. As it is a pre-cut, it has an oblong shape completed laterally by excrescences which, after thermoforming, will constitute the two fins. In the case where one starts from an initial panel, the cutting of the part occurs after the thermoforming operation.

Les valeurs données ci-dessus en ce qui concerne les portions de cône et l'angle au sommet α de la courbure concave selon le plan longitudinal L correspondent aux valeurs de la pièce 20 au repos, notamment les valeurs des formes ou moules permettant le thermoformage. En effet, lors des mouvements de bras du porteur, la pièce axillaire va tout naturellement se déformer mais, malgré ces déformations, la pièce ne présentera jamais de pliure gênante et restera toujours parfaitement adaptée à la configuration de l'article.The values given above with regard to the cone portions and the apex angle α of the concave curvature along the longitudinal plane L correspond to the values of the piece 20 at rest, in particular the values of the shapes or molds for thermoforming. . Indeed, during the movements of the wearer's arm, the axillary piece will naturally deform but, despite these deformations, the piece will never present annoying fold and will always be perfectly adapted to the configuration of the article.

Dans le premier exemple de réalisation qui est illustré à la figure 1, la pièce axillaire 1 est une pièce de protection contre la sudation ou transpiration émise par le corps de l'utilisateur au niveau de la zone de l'aisselle.In the first embodiment which is illustrated in the figure 1 , the axillary piece 1 is a piece of protection against sweating or perspiration emitted by the body of the user in the area of the armpit.

Le principe de cette protection est de faire en sorte que la pièce protectrice capte et stocke, dans une couche absorbante, la sécrétion émise tout en évitant, grâce à une couche externe et imperméable, que cette sécrétion puisse migrer et humidifier tâcher et/ou décolorer l'article d'habillement.The principle of this protection is to ensure that the protective part captures and stores, in an absorbent layer, the secretion emitted while avoiding, thanks to an external and impermeable layer, that this secretion can migrate and moisten stain and / or discolor the article of clothing.

Dans son concept le plus élémentaire, la pièce protectrice 1 de la présente invention consiste uniquement en une étoffe 2 qui est dite de type tridimensionnel ou 3D en ce qu'elle comprend deux parois 3 et 6 qui sont toutes deux formées de fils entrelacés, par exemple des premiers fils de chaîne 4 et des premiers fils de trame 5 pour la première paroi 3 et des seconds fils de chaîne 7 et des seconds fils de trame 8 pour la seconde paroi 6, les deux dites parois 3 et 6 étant reliées entre elles par un ensemble 9 de fils de liaison, par exemple des fils 10 qui dans l'exemple particulièrement simplifié, illustré à la figure 1, passent alternativement par-dessus certains des premiers fils de chaîne 4 de la première paroi 3 et par-dessous certains des seconds fils de chaîne 7 de la seconde paroi 6. Le mode de fabrication d'une telle étoffe de type tridimensionnel ou 3D est bien connu dans l'industrie textile. Il est possible de choisir les conditions opératoires du métier de fabrication pour régler la distance séparant les deux parois 3, 6, distance occupée exclusivement par les fils de liaison 10, ainsi que la densité de ces fils de liaison dans l'ensemble 9. Lorsque la mise en configuration tridimensionnelle de la pièce est réalisée par thermoformage ou thermomoulage, cette étoffe doit comporter un pourcentage suffisant de fils thermofusibles, par exemple de l'ordre de 30 à 50% en poids.In its most basic concept, the protective piece 1 of the present invention consists only of a fabric 2 which is said to be of three-dimensional or 3D type in that it comprises two walls 3 and 6 which are both formed of intertwined threads, by example of the first warp threads 4 and the first weft threads 5 for the first wall 3 and the second warp threads 7 and the second weft threads 8 for the second wall 6, the two said walls 3 and 6 being interconnected by a set 9 of connecting son, for example son 10 which in the particularly simplified example, illustrated in FIG. figure 1 , pass alternately over some of the first warp threads 4 of the first wall 3 and underneath some of the second warp threads 7 of the second wall 6. The method of manufacturing such a three-dimensional or 3D-type fabric is well known in the textile industry. It is possible to choose the operating conditions of the manufacturing trade to adjust the distance separating the two walls 3, 6, the distance occupied exclusively by the connecting threads 10, as well as the density of these connecting threads in the assembly 9. When the setting in three-dimensional configuration of the part is carried out by thermoforming or thermomolding, this fabric must comprise a sufficient percentage of hot melt threads, for example of the order of 30 to 50% by weight.

Selon l'invention, la première paroi 3, dénommée aussi paroi interne de l'étoffe, est celle qui est destinée à être la plus proche du porteur de l'article. La de la face intérieure de l'article. La paroi interne 3 comprend des fils 4, 5, qui sont aptes à assurer l'absorption de l'humidité provenant de la sécrétion et/ou le transfert de cette humidité vers l'ensemble 9 des fils de liaison. Cet ensemble 9 comprend des fils dans un matériau absorbant, de manière à être apte à assurer le stockage au moins momentané de l'humidité contenue dans la sécrétion. La paroi externe 6 comprend des fils qui sont dans un matériau synthétique et qui sont entrelacés en sorte d'obtenir un effet de barrière à l'humidité contenue dans l'ensemble 9 des fils de liaison.According to the invention, the first wall 3, also called internal wall of the fabric, is the one which is intended to be the closest to the wearer of the article. The of the inner face of the article. The inner wall 3 comprises son 4, 5, which are able to ensure the absorption of moisture from the secretion and / or the transfer of this moisture to the assembly 9 of the son of connection. This set 9 comprises son in an absorbent material, so as to be able to ensure the storage at least momentary moisture contained in the secretion. The outer wall 6 comprises threads which are made of a synthetic material and which are interwoven so as to obtain a moisture barrier effect contained in the assembly 9 of the connecting threads.

Dans un exemple précis de réalisation, la fonction de transfert de l'humidité de la paroi interne 3 est réalisée par la mise en oeuvre de fils qui contiennent des fibres ou filaments multilobés, à transfert d'humidité amélioré, notamment des fibres COOLMAX®.In a specific embodiment, the moisture transfer function of the inner wall 3 is achieved by the implementation of son that contain fibers or multilobed filaments, improved moisture transfer, including COOLMAX® fibers.

Grâce à leur section multilobée, lesdites fibres ou filaments comportent des canaux longitudinaux faisant office de capillaires, par lesquels migre l'humidité.With their multilobal section, said fibers or filaments comprise longitudinal channels acting as capillaries, through which the moisture migrates.

Dans cet exemple, la fonction de stockage de l'humidité de l'ensemble 9 des fils de liaison est assurée par la mise en oeuvre de fils à base de viscose de bambou qui sont connus pour leur grande capacité d'absorption et également pour leurs propriétés bactériostatiques, particulièrement bienvenues compte tenu qu'il s'agit d'absorber des sécrétions corporelles.In this example, the moisture storage function of the assembly 9 of the connecting son is ensured by the implementation of bamboo viscose-based yarns which are known for their high absorption capacity and also for their bacteriostatic properties, particularly welcome considering that it is to absorb body secretions.

Dans cet exemple, la fonction de barrière à l'humidité de la paroi externe 6 est obtenue par la mise en oeuvre de fils à base de polyester, de préférence traités hydrophobes.In this example, the moisture barrier function of the outer wall 6 is obtained by the implementation of polyester-based son, preferably hydrophobic treated.

Ainsi dans le cas où la pièce protectrice 1 est intégrée telle quelle dans un article d'habillement, la transpiration émise par l'aisselle vient en contact avec la paroi interne 3, elle diffuse par capillarité le long des fils 4, 5 pour atteindre les fils de liaison qui se trouvent au niveau de ladite paroi 3 de telle sorte que l'humidité en question est absorbée progressivement, par effet de pompage, par l'ensemble 9 de fils de liaison. Quant à la paroi externe 6, elle empêche l'humidité stockée dans l'ensemble 9 de diffuser directement sur la zone déterminée de l'article d'habillement contre laquelle elle est en contact.Thus, in the case where the protective piece 1 is integrated as is in an article of clothing, the transpiration emitted by the armpit comes into contact with the inner wall 3, it diffuses by capillarity along the son 4, 5 to reach the connecting son which are at said wall 3 so that the moisture in question is absorbed gradually, by pumping effect, by the assembly 9 of connecting son. As for the outer wall 6, it prevents the moisture stored in the assembly 9 to diffuse directly on the determined area of the article of clothing against which it is in contact.

L'effet de pompage évoqué ci-dessus améliore le confort de l'utilisateur qui n'a plus la sensation d'avoir les dessous de bras humides, l'humidité étant évacuée rapidement dans l'ensemble 9 faisant office de zone de stockage.The pumping effect mentioned above improves the comfort of the user who no longer has the sensation of having wet underarms, moisture being rapidly removed in the assembly 9 acting as a storage area.

L'étoffe 2 présentant toutefois une certaine porosité, s'il existe une circulation d'air suffisante, l'humidité stockée dans ladite étoffe 2 peut progressivement être évacuée sous forme d'air humide passant à travers la paroi externe 6.The fabric 2, however, having a certain porosity, if there is sufficient air circulation, the moisture stored in said fabric 2 can gradually be removed as moist air passing through the outer wall 6.

Cependant, si la quantité de sécrétions est importante ou éventuellement si l'on veut réduire l'épaisseur de l'étoffe, il est préférable de renforcer l'effet barrière à l'humidité de la paroi externe 6 de manière à éviter tout risque de transpercement de ladite paroi.However, if the amount of secretions is important or possibly to reduce the thickness of the fabric, it is preferable to reinforce the moisture barrier effect of the outer wall 6 so as to avoid any risk of piercing of said wall.

Ce renforcement peut être mis en oeuvre en appliquant sur la paroi externe 6 un agent de traitement approprié, par exemple un agent imperméabilisant. Cependant, il y a dans ce cas un risque de limiter fortement la porosité de la paroi externe 6 et donc sa capacité à évacuer l'humidité contenue dans la zone de stockage.This reinforcement can be implemented by applying to the outer wall 6 a suitable treatment agent, for example a waterproofing agent. However, there is in this case a risk of greatly limiting the porosity of the outer wall 6 and therefore its ability to remove moisture contained in the storage area.

Ce risque est le même, voire accentué, si l'on utilise comme moyen de renforcement une membrane imperméable.This risk is the same, even accentuated, if one uses as a means of reinforcement an impermeable membrane.

Par conséquent, selon le deuxième exemple illustré à la figure 2, la pièce protectrice 11 comporte également une membrane imper respirante 12 qui est solidarisée à la paroi externe 6. Une telle membrane 12 assure l'effet de barrière à l'humidité recherchée tout en ayant une porosité suffisante pour permettre la circulation de l'air qui est utile pour éviter un échauffement localisé de l'espace entre la pièce 11 et le corps du porteur, échauffement susceptible d'accentuer la transpiration, et qui est aussi nécessaire à l'extraction de l'humidité contenue dans l'étoffe 2.Therefore, according to the second example shown in figure 2 , the protective piece 11 also comprises a breathable waterproof membrane 12 which is secured to the outer wall 6. Such a membrane 12 provides the desired moisture barrier effect while having sufficient porosity to allow the circulation of air which is useful for preventing a localized heating of the space between the workpiece 11 and the body of the wearer, heating which may increase perspiration, and which is also necessary for extracting the moisture contained in the fabric 2.

La technique de solidarisation entre la membrane imper respirante 12 et la paroi externe 6 doit permettre à la membrane de garder sa porosité. De préférence on utilise un collage point par point, de type hot-melt.The joining technique between the breathable waterproof membrane 12 and the outer wall 6 must allow the membrane to retain its porosity. Preferably, a point-by-point bonding of the hot-melt type is used.

La figure 3 illustre un troisième exemple de pièce protectrice 13 qui diffère du second exemple par la solidarisation sur la membrane imper respirante 12 d'une couche extérieure 14, qui peut être un textile léger ou un non-tissé, sur la face extérieure de laquelle est appliqué un adhésif 15 protégé par une feuille anti-adhérente 16.The figure 3 illustrates a third example of a protective piece 13 which differs from the second example by the fastening on the membrane mac breathable 12 of an outer layer 14, which may be a light textile or a nonwoven, on the outside of which is applied an adhesive 15 protected by a non-stick sheet 16.

Selon ce troisième exemple, la pièce protectrice 13 peut être mise en oeuvre directement par l'utilisateur. Il suffit à celui-ci de retirer la feuille anti-adhérente 16 et d'appliquer l'adhésif 15 contre la face interne de la zone des aisselles 25 d'un article d'habillement 28.According to this third example, the protective part 13 can be implemented directly by the user. It suffices for the latter to remove the non-stick sheet 16 and to apply the adhesive 15 against the inner face of the armpit area 25 of an article of clothing 28.

La mise en oeuvre dans ce troisième exemple de la couche extérieure 14 se justifie par le risque de délaminage qui pourrait intervenir entre la membrane imper-respirante 12 et l'article d'habillement 28 dans le cas où l'adhésif 15 serait appliqué directement sur ladite membrane 12.The implementation in this third example of the outer layer 14 is justified by the risk of delamination that could occur between the breathable membrane 12 and the article of clothing 28 in the case where the adhesive 15 would be applied directly on said membrane 12.

Plus généralement, la présence d'une couche extérieure 14 se justifie toutes les fois où il y a un risque de dégradation ou de délaminage de la membrane, soit lors de la réalisation de la pièce protectrice, soit lors de son utilisation dans l'article d'habillement. C'est tout particulièrement le cas lorsque la configuration tridimensionnelle de la pièce est obtenue par thermoformage, la couche extérieure formant une protection de la membrane l'empêchant de venir directement en contact avec la surface interne du moule.
La mise en oeuvre de cette couche extérieure a aussi l'avantage d'éviter tout bruit au porté, lié au frottement avec le vêtement, qui rendrait la pièce axillaire perceptible par autrui. Cet avantage est important, car il permet une plus grande discrétion au porté, qui est une exigence primordiale pour les usagers.More generally, the presence of an outer layer 14 is justified whenever there is a risk of degradation or delamination of the membrane, either during the production of the protective part or during its use in the article. clothing. This is particularly the case when the three-dimensional configuration of the part is obtained by thermoforming, the outer layer forming a protection of the membrane preventing it from coming into direct contact with the inner surface of the mold.
The implementation of this outer layer also has the advantage of avoiding any wear, related to the friction with the garment, which would make the axillary piece perceptible by others. This advantage is important because it allows greater discretion to the worn, which is a primary requirement for users.

A la figure 6 est représentée de manière schématique, en vue de côté, la pièce axillaire 20 de la figure 5. Apparaît en particulier sur cette figure, l'angle α au sommet de la courbure concave prise par la pièce 20 au niveau de la ligne d'intersection 22 avec le plan longitudinal L. Dans l'exemple illustré à la figure 6, il s'agit d'une pièce destinée à un vêtement à emmanchure en T, notamment un vêtement de sport du type T-shirt ou sweat-shirt. Cet angle α est de l'ordre de 90°, plus précisément dans l'exemple illustré il est de 87°. De plus, en référence à la figure 6, s'agissant d'un article pour femme, la valeur D1 de la projection de la partie avant 25 est de l'ordre de 53 mm tandis que la valeur D2 de la projection de la partie arrière 26 est de 71mm. Dans le cas d'un article à emmanchure en T pour homme, les valeurs de D1 et α1 resteraient les mêmes tandis que la valeur D2 de la projection de la partie arrière 26 serait augmentée, étant par exemple de 85 mm.To the figure 6 is shown schematically, in side view, the axillary piece 20 of the figure 5 . In this figure, in particular, the angle α at the apex of the concave curvature taken by the part 20 at the intersection line 22 with the longitudinal plane L. In the example illustrated in FIG. figure 6 it is a piece intended for a T-shirt, especially a sportswear type T-shirt or sweatshirt. This angle α is of the order of 90 °, more precisely in the example illustrated it is 87 °. In addition, with reference to the figure 6 in the case of a women's article, the value D1 of the projection of the front part 25 is of the order of 53 mm while the value D2 the projection of the rear portion 26 is 71mm. In the case of an article with T-armhole for men, the values of D1 and α1 would remain the same while the value D2 of the projection of the rear portion 26 would be increased, being for example 85 mm.

Comparativement, la valeur de la projection de la ligne d'intersection 23 serait pour un vêtement féminin de 61 mm et pour un vêtement masculin de 80mm. Bien sûr ces valeurs sont données à titre indicatif.In comparison, the value of the projection of the intersection line 23 would be for a women's clothing of 61 mm and for a men's clothing of 80 mm. Of course these values are given as an indication.

Dans le cas d'un article à emmanchure du type veste, seules seraient modifiées les valeurs de l'angle au sommet ; de préférence cet angle α2 serait compris entre 70 et 75°, de préférence 73°.In the case of an armhole-type article, only the values of the angle at the top would be modified; preferably this angle α2 would be between 70 and 75 °, preferably 73 °.

Sur la figure 9 est représentée une pièce axillaire 40 dont la configuration tridimensionnelle est obtenue par assemblage de deux tronçons de pièces 41, 42 qui sont assemblés par une couture plate, bord à bord. Plus précisément, on a représenté sur cette même figure 9, les deux tronçons de pièces 41, 42, disposées face à face, avant leur assemblage. On constate que ces deux tronçons ont tous deux un bord concave 41a, 42a de mêmes dimensions et de même concavité. Par contre les deux tronçons eux-mêmes ne sont pas symétriques par rapport à l'axe de symétrie XX' des bords concaves 41a, 42b. L'assemblage de ces deux tronçons 41, 42 se fait par une couture plate 43 selon les deux bords concaves 41a, 42a sur toute la longueur de ceux-ci qui sont rapprochés l'un de l'autre progressivement lors de la couture. Cette opération permet d'obtenir une mise en forme du même type que celle obtenue à la figure 5. Comme cela apparaît sur la figure 9, la ligne de couture 43 passe par l'intersection 24 des plans longitudinal L et transversal D, ladite ligne de couture 43 faisant un angle déterminé, de préférence de l'ordre de 15° par rapport à la ligne d'intersection 23 avec le plan transversal D.On the figure 9 is represented an axillary piece 40 whose three-dimensional configuration is obtained by assembling two pieces of pieces 41, 42 which are assembled by a flat seam, edge to edge. More precisely, it is represented on this same figure 9 , the two sections of parts 41, 42, arranged face to face, before assembly. It can be seen that these two sections both have a concave edge 41a, 42a of the same dimensions and concavity. On the other hand, the two sections themselves are not symmetrical with respect to the axis of symmetry XX 'of the concave edges 41a, 42b. The assembly of these two sections 41, 42 is done by a flat seam 43 according to the two concave edges 41a, 42a along the entire length thereof which are brought closer to one another gradually during sewing. This operation makes it possible to obtain a formatting of the same type as that obtained at the figure 5 . As it appears on the figure 9 , the seam line 43 passes through the intersection 24 of the longitudinal L and transverse plane D, said seam line 43 making a determined angle, preferably of the order of 15 ° with respect to the line of intersection 23 with the transverse plane D.

Sur la figure 7 on a représenté l'un des moyens de fixation qui permet l'amovibilité d'une pièce axillaire, 20 sur l'intérieur d'un article d'habillement. Dans ce mode de réalisation, la pièce axillaire est logée dans deux poches 50, 51 qui sont formées sur l'intérieur du vêtement, de part et d'autre dé la ligne d'emmanchure de telle sorte que leurs ouvertures respectives 50a, 51a soient en vis-à-vis. La poche la plus petite 50 sert de logement à la partie avant 25 tandis que la poche de plus grande dimension 51 sert de logement à la partie arrière 26 de la pièce 20. Les dimensions intérieures des deux poches sont légèrement surdimensionnées par rapport aux dimensions extérieures de la pièce axillaire 20 de manière à permettre son positionnement sans trop de difficulté. Ces poches 50, 51 sont par exemple fixées par collage selon une zone périphérique 50b, 51b, délimitée sur la figure 7 par des pointillés. Le bord avant, le long de l'ouverture, de chaque poche présente une courbure concave de manière à s'adapter à la configuration de l'emmanchure.On the figure 7 there is shown one of the fastening means which allows the removability of an axillary piece, 20 on the inside of an article of clothing. In this embodiment, the axillary piece is housed in two pockets 50, 51 which are formed on the inside of the garment, on either side of the armhole line so that their respective openings 50a, 51a are in vis-à-vis. The smaller pocket 50 serves as a housing for the front portion 25 while the larger pocket 51 serves as a housing for the rear portion 26 of the room 20. The inner dimensions of the two pockets are slightly oversized relative to the outer dimensions axillary piece 20 so as to allow its positioning without too much difficulty. These pockets 50, 51 are for example fixed by gluing in a peripheral zone 50b, 51b, delimited on the figure 7 by dots. The front edge, along the opening, of each pocket has a concave curvature so as to adapt to the configuration of the armhole.

Une fois positionnée à l'intérieur des deux poches, la pièce axillaire 20 est parfaitement tenue en place étant en quelque sorte emprisonnée dans ces deux poches, tout déplacement relatif de la pièce dans une poche repoussant la pièce au fond de l'autre poche.Once positioned inside the two pockets, the axillary piece 20 is perfectly held in place being somehow trapped in these two pockets, any relative movement of the piece in a pocket pushing the room at the bottom of the other pocket.

En pratique, on utilise, pour constituer les deux poche 50, 51, un panneau textile notamment une grille ou tricot ajouré, notamment tulle ou nid d'abeille, présentant une grande porosité et une certaine élasticité et une bonne stabilité dimensionnelle, de manière d'une part à ce que les poches ne constituent pas une barrière au transfert de la sudation ou transpiration émise par le corps de l'utilisateur vers la pièce axillaire 20 et d'autre part à ce que ladite pièce puisse s'introduire aisément dans la poche tout en étant bien maintenue et sans se distendre au porter, ladite la poche ne constituant pas une contrainte de déformation de la configuration tridimensionnelle de la pièce.In practice, in order to constitute the two pockets 50, 51, a textile panel is used, in particular a grid or openwork knit, in particular tulle or honeycomb, having a high porosity and a certain elasticity and a good dimensional stability, so as to on the one hand that the pockets do not constitute a barrier to the transfer of perspiration or perspiration emitted by the body of the user to the axillary piece 20 and secondly that said piece can be introduced easily into the pocket while being well maintained and without distending itself to wear, said pocket not constituting a constraint of deformation of the three-dimensional configuration of the part.

Bien sûr il serait possible de loger la pièce axillaire non pas dans deux poches comme décrit ci-dessus mais dans une seule poche mais cela rendrait plus difficile l'introduction de la pièce axillaire et d'autre part ne permettrait pas la mise en butée de la pièce lors des mouvements du bras.Of course it would be possible to accommodate the axillary piece not in two pockets as described above but in a single pocket but it would make it more difficult the introduction of the axillary piece and secondly would not allow the abutment of the room during the movements of the arm.

Lorsque la pièce axillaire est destinée à être logée dans une ou deux poches, l'ensemble constitué par la ou les poche et la pièce peut être proposé comme ensemble protecteur ou de renfort, pour autant que la ou les poches soient aptes à être fixées sur la zone de l'aisselle de l'article d'habillement, cette fixation pouvant être notamment réalisée par voie adhésive ou thermo-adhésive.When the axillary piece is intended to be housed in one or two pockets, the assembly constituted by the pocket or pockets and the piece may be proposed as a protective or reinforcing assembly, provided that the pocket (s) are capable of being fixed on the armpit area of the article of clothing, this fixing that can be made in particular by adhesive or thermo-adhesive.

Il existe d'autres moyens de rendre la pièce solidaire de l'article d'habillement. Cela peut se faire par une fixation définitive de la pièce sur l'article par collage à l'aide d'une enduction adhésive ou éventuellement d'une enduction ou d'un film thermo adhésif. De préférence, dans ce dernier cas, le film doit être fin et transparent et présenter une certaine élasticité. C'est ce mode de réalisation qui est illustré dans le troisième exemple décrit ci-dessus, en relation avec la figure 3.There are other ways to make the piece integral with the article of clothing. This can be done by a final fixing of the piece on the article by gluing with the aid of an adhesive coating or possibly a coating or a thermo adhesive film. Preferably, in the latter case, the film must be thin and transparent and have a certain elasticity. It is this embodiment which is illustrated in the third example described above, in connection with the figure 3 .

La fixation de la pièce peut également être amovible en utilisant en particulier un système d'attache amovible mettant en oeuvre un premier élément solidaire de la pièce, sur la face extérieure de celle-ci, et un second élément solidaire de l'article d'habillement, les deux dits éléments étant aptes à coopérer entre eux pour une fixation amovible. Sur la figure 8 on a décrit un mode de réalisation de ce type de fixation, dans lequel la pièce 1 comporte, sur sa face extérieure la des éléments à boucles 50 tandis que des éléments à crochets 51 sont fixés à l'intérieur de l'article d'habillement 52. Il s'agit d'éléments à boucles et à crochets du type de système auto agrippant connu sous la dénomination Velcro®. Bien sûr d'autres systèmes d'attaches amovibles peuvent être utilisés, que ce soit par bouton-pression, par système à aimantation ou par du double-face adhésif.The attachment of the piece can also be removable by using in particular a removable fastening system implementing a first integral element of the workpiece, on the outer face thereof, and a second element integral with the article d ' clothing, the two said elements being able to cooperate with each other for a removable attachment. On the figure 8 there has been described an embodiment of this type of fastening, in which the piece 1 has on its outer face the loop elements 50 while the hook elements 51 are fixed inside the article of clothing 52. These are loop and hook elements of the type of self-gripping system known as Velcro®. Of course other removable fastening systems can be used, whether by snap, magnetization system or double-sided adhesive.

Comme précisé ci-dessus, les exemples de réalisation décrits de manière détaillée quant à la constitution de la pièce axillaire ont concerné son application comme pièce protectrice axillaire contre la sudation et la transpiration.As specified above, the exemplary embodiments described in detail with regard to the constitution of the axillary piece concerned its application as an axillary protective piece against perspiration and perspiration.

Cette utilisation de la pièce axillaire à configuration tridimensionnelle de la présente invention n'est pas la seule. En particulier elle peut servir de renfort pour maintenir en forme la zone des aisselles d'un vêtement après un usage répété de celui-ci. Dans ce cas la pièce n'est plus nécessairement constituée par une couche absorbante et une couche imperméable. Elle doit néanmoins présenter une mémoire de forme suffisante pour qu'elle retrouve, au repos, la configuration tridimensionnelle qu'elle possède initialement malgré les déformations engendrées par l'usage répété. Ceci est notamment le cas en mettant en oeuvre une proportion suffisante de matériaux thermofusibles, par exemple de l'ordre de 30 à 50% en poids, et en réalisant la configuration tridimensionnelle par thermoformage.This use of the axillary three-dimensional configuration of the present invention is not the only one. In particular it can serve as reinforcement to maintain the shape of the armpit area of a garment after repeated use of it. In this case the part is not necessarily constituted by an absorbent layer and an impermeable layer. However, she must have a memory of sufficient shape to find, at rest, the three-dimensional configuration that it initially possesses in spite of the deformations engendered by the repeated use. This is particularly the case by using a sufficient proportion of hot melt materials, for example of the order of 30 to 50% by weight, and carrying out the three-dimensional configuration by thermoforming.

Claims (16)

  1. An armpit patch (20) for incorporating in an article (28) of clothing in the under-arm zone, said patch being generally oblong in shape with a longitudinal plane of symmetry (L) and a transverse plane (D) for coming substantially under the armhole line and associated on either side of said transverse plane (D) with a front portion (25) that is to come under the panel forming the arm of the article and with a rear portion (26) that is to come under the panel forming the body of the article, the patch being characterized in that it has a three-dimensional configuration without sharp edges and in that said three-dimensional configuration consists at least in that laterally, in the immediate proximity of the transverse plane (D), the front and rear portions (25, 26) form two flanges in relief (30, 31), each being configured substantially as a portion of a cone that is no more than half a cone having its apex lying substantially at the point of intersection (24) with the longitudinal and transverse planes (L, D), in that each flange (30, 31) defines a circular arc along the edge corresponding to the patch, with the angle at the apex being equal to or less than 180°, and in that the said patch presents, in the longitudinal plane (L), concave curvature having a determined angle (α) at the apex.
  2. An armpit patch according to claim 1, characterized in that the angle α is a function of the type of armhole of the article of clothing, in particular α1 for an armhole of the "set-in sleeve" type (jacket, shirt) that is less than the angle α2 for an armhole of the "T-shirt shape" type (T-shirt, sportswear).
  3. An armpit patch according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the angle α1 for a jacket type article (set-in sleeve) is of the order of 70° to 75°, and is preferably equal to 73°.
  4. An armpit patch according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the angle α2 at the apex for an article having a T-shirt shape type sleeve (T-shirt) is of the order of 85° to 90°, and preferably equal to 87°.
  5. An armpit patch according to any one of claims 1 to 4, for providing protecting against visible transfer of armpit sweat, the patch being characterized in that it comprises at least a waterproof outer layer and an absorbent layer, and in that said outer layer is for coming into contact with the article.
  6. An armpit patch according to claim 5, characterized in that it consists in a non-woven fabric of absorbent material having one face subjected to hydrophobic treatment to constitute the waterproof outer layer.
  7. An armpit patch according to claim 5, characterized in that the outer layer is constituted by a waterproof membrane or a breathable waterproof membrane, optionally covered on the outside in a textile or non-woven layer, and in that the outer layer and the absorbent layer are assembled together at their peripheral edges.
  8. An armpit patch (1) according to claim 5, characterized in that it comprises fabric (2) having two faces (3, 6) formed by interlaced yarns (4, 5, 7, 8), the faces being connected to each other, and in that:
    · the outside face (6) of the fabric (2) acts at least in part as a waterproof outer layer and comprises yarns (7, 8) made of a synthetic material;
    · the fabric (2) includes yarns (10) made of an absorbent material suitable for storing moisture; and
    · the inside face (1) of the fabric (2) includes yarns suitable for absorbing and/or transferring moisture towards the storage yarns (10).
  9. An armpit patch (1) according to claim 8, characterized in that the fabric is a fabric of three-dimensional type having its two faces formed by two walls (3, 6) that are spaced apart from each other and that are connected together by link yarns (10), which link yarns are made of an absorbent material, being suitable for storing moisture between said two walls (3, 6).
  10. A protective patch according to claim 8 or claim 9, characterized in that it includes a breathable waterproof membrane (12) secured to the outside face (6) of the fabric (2), in particular by dots of adhesive, and optionally an outer layer (14) of textile or non-woven fabric that is secured to the breathable waterproof membrane (12).
  11. A protective patch according to any one of claims 5 to 10, characterized in that its peripheral edge is consolidated by ultrasonic welding.
  12. A method of fabricating an armpit patch (20) for incorporating in an article (28) of clothing in the under-arm zone, said patch being generally oblong in shape with a longitudinal plane of symmetry (L) and a transverse plane (D) for coming substantially under the armhole line and associated on either side of said transverse plane (D) with a front portion (25) that is to come under the panel forming the arm of the article and with a rear portion (26) that is to come under the panel forming the body of the article, the patch having a three-dimensional configuration without sharp edges, said three-dimensional configuration consists at least in that laterally, in the immediate proximity of the transverse plane (D), the front and rear portions (25, 26) form two flanges in relief (30, 31), each being configured substantially as a portion of a cone having its apex lying substantially at the point of intersection (24) with the longitudinal and transverse planes (L, D), characterized in that the said method comprises the following operations:
    · taking a starting panel;
    · cutting a patch from said panel, the patch having a generally oblong shape with a longitudinal plane (2) of symmetry and a transverse plane (D) for coming substantially under the armhole line of an article (28) of clothing and, on either side of said transverse plane (D), a front portion (25) for coming under the panel forming the arm (27) of the article (28) and a rear portion (26) for coming under the panel forming the body (29) of the article; and
    . shaping the starting panel before cutting out the patch or shaping the patch after cutting it out so as to gave the patch a three-dimensional configuration without sharp edges, said three-dimensional configuration consisting at least in that laterally, in the immediate proximity of the transverse plane (D), the front and rear portions (25, 26) form two flanges (30, 31) in relief, each being substantially configured as a portion of a cone having its apex substantially at the intersection (24) with the longitudinal and transverse planes (L, D).
  13. A method according to claim 12, characterized in that the shaping is formed by thermoforming or thermomolding.
  14. A method according to claim 13, characterized in that the shaping operation is performed on the starting panel and in that the patch is cut out after shaping.
  15. A method according to claim 12, characterized in that the shaping is performed by assembling together two patch portions (41, 42), in particular by edge-to-edge stitching, the portions being assembled together along two concave edges (41a, 42a) of said portions so that the assembly line (43) passes via the intersection (24) between the longitudinal and transverse planes (L, D) of the patch (40) and forms a determined angle with the transverse plane.
  16. A method according to claim 15, characterized in that the angle formed between the assembly line (43) and the transverse plane (D) is of the order of 15°.
EP09794024A 2008-06-25 2009-06-25 Axillary piece with three-dimensional configuration Active EP2303045B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0854225A FR2932960B1 (en) 2008-06-25 2008-06-25 AXILLARY PIECE OF THREE DIMENSIONAL CONFIGURATION.
PCT/FR2009/051217 WO2010004174A1 (en) 2008-06-25 2009-06-25 Axillary piece with three-dimensional configuration

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2303045A1 EP2303045A1 (en) 2011-04-06
EP2303045B1 true EP2303045B1 (en) 2013-02-20

Family

ID=40328272

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP09794024A Active EP2303045B1 (en) 2008-06-25 2009-06-25 Axillary piece with three-dimensional configuration

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US20110162130A1 (en)
EP (1) EP2303045B1 (en)
FR (1) FR2932960B1 (en)
WO (1) WO2010004174A1 (en)

Families Citing this family (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US8074375B2 (en) * 2009-03-16 2011-12-13 Le Chameau Boot
US9936751B1 (en) 2013-03-14 2018-04-10 Francesco Mignone Towel/absorptive arm sleeve and means of hands free toweling
WO2019060311A1 (en) * 2017-09-19 2019-03-28 Thomas Jefferson University Hidradenitis suppurativa wound care system
CN110720691B (en) * 2019-11-21 2021-03-02 李若畅 Sweating hollow-out unit, sweating hollow-out structure and clothes using structure

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1838013A (en) * 1930-08-27 1931-12-22 Tisdall Hazel Grace Dress protector
US3345643A (en) * 1965-03-29 1967-10-10 Mary A L Bradley Disposable dress shield
CH688757A5 (en) * 1994-11-04 1998-03-13 Giusto Anna Adriana-Hegi Di Under-the-arm.
FR2845870B1 (en) * 2002-10-22 2005-09-16 Corinne Le Gars Boulat PROTECTIVE DEVICE FOR CLOTHING

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR2932960A1 (en) 2010-01-01
FR2932960B1 (en) 2010-09-03
US20110162130A1 (en) 2011-07-07
EP2303045A1 (en) 2011-04-06
WO2010004174A1 (en) 2010-01-14

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