EP1918438B1 - Method for producing a tubular flat knit fabric with the plating technique - Google Patents

Method for producing a tubular flat knit fabric with the plating technique Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1918438B1
EP1918438B1 EP06022367A EP06022367A EP1918438B1 EP 1918438 B1 EP1918438 B1 EP 1918438B1 EP 06022367 A EP06022367 A EP 06022367A EP 06022367 A EP06022367 A EP 06022367A EP 1918438 B1 EP1918438 B1 EP 1918438B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stitches
knitted
needles
row
edge
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Fee Related
Application number
EP06022367A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP1918438A1 (en
Inventor
Thomas Nonnenmacher
Francesco Collura
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
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H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
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Publication date
Application filed by H Stoll GmbH and Co KG filed Critical H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Priority to DE502006006724T priority Critical patent/DE502006006724D1/en
Priority to EP06022367A priority patent/EP1918438B1/en
Priority to CN2007101679325A priority patent/CN101168883B/en
Publication of EP1918438A1 publication Critical patent/EP1918438A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1918438B1 publication Critical patent/EP1918438B1/en
Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/106Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern at a selvedge, e.g. hems or turned welts
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01Surface features
    • D10B2403/011Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0114Dissimilar front and back faces with one or more yarns appearing predominantly on one face, e.g. plated or paralleled yarns

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for producing a tubular round finished knit in plating on a flat knitting machine with at least two opposing needle beds.
  • Plain smooth flat knits made by plating have an inner side formed by a plating yarn and an outer side formed by a main yarn.
  • the plating thread and the ground thread are usually of different quality and often of different colors.
  • Tubular Rund-Fertiggestricke, which are formed in plating have wherever the thread guide changes its direction of movement, d. H. especially on the side edges of the torso parts and the sleeves so-called plating error. These stir u. a. therefore, that the yarn guide moving away from the fabric contracts the stitches of the edge needles and thereby reduces the edge stitches. In these reduced mesh often the plating thread is no longer covered by the ground thread and is therefore visible from the outside.
  • Plattierminus These different-colored looking or a different yarn structure having edge stitches are referred to as so-called Plattierminus.
  • the present invention has for its object to develop a method for producing a round tube Rundundgestick in plating, which has no Plattiercons.
  • the object is achieved with a method for producing a tubular Rund-Fertiggestricks in plating on a flat knitting machine with at least two opposing needle beds, which is characterized in that at least those stitches, after the formation of the knitting direction is changed, in particular the edge stitches of the knitted fabric , At least in every second row by Um psychologyvortician initially be increased so that they have the same size in the finished fabric as the other stitches of the knitted fabric.
  • the stitches are enlarged by transfer operations from needle to needle.
  • the wrapping can be done laterally on another needle of the same needle bed or preferably on a needle of the opposite needle bed.
  • the hanging creates a stretching of the stitch.
  • the stitches can be transferred to the opposite needle bed at least in every other row of knits and formed as a left stitch. This creates a visible as a seam imitation stripes on the side edges of the knitted fabric.
  • Such seam imitations are often desirable and are also used in tubular round finished knits which are not made in plating technique.
  • the edge stitches can be knit in each row or only in every other row as a left stitch. Accordingly, the seam imitations get a different character. In both cases, however, the edge stitches brought to their original size by the draping operation are sufficient to avoid plating errors in all knitting rows.
  • stitches can be formed only with every second needle at least in these edge regions. This results in free needles on which the stitches of the opposing needle bed can be transferred to form the links mesh described above.
  • seam imitations even through seams outside the edges of the knitted fabric.
  • Such seams come into question in particular at the joints between the sleeves and the body part.
  • the seam imitations lying outside the edge regions can expediently be produced in the same way as the edge regions.
  • the seam imitations of the entire knitted fabric then have a uniform character.
  • such seams can also be made in other parts of the body or on the sleeves.
  • a continuous reduction of the knit width and an enlargement of the edge stitches are performed by Umitativortician shoulder seams in the connection area of the sleeves to the body part by left stitching and smooth right-knitted areas formed on the sleeves and in the body part and the Ausdeckmuster in the front and back.
  • a tubular round-finished knit which is produced by a method according to the invention, has at least in the edge regions umge certifiede mesh. These suspended stitches can preferably be left stitches. This allows the production of a seam imitation.
  • the knitted piece can also have such seam imitations outside the edge regions.
  • the fabric may also include at least one cover pattern area or other pattern areas.
  • Fig. 1 shows a sweater formed as a tubular Rund-Fertiggestrick that can be completely formed on a flat knitting machine.
  • the sweater 1 is made in plating, ie for its production, everyone on Knitting involved needle at least two different knitting threads fed to the stitch formation.
  • the sequence of knitting processes for forming the tubular round finished knitted fabric 1 corresponds to the prior art. It is started with three individual tubular knitted fabric, the body portion 10, the left sleeve 20 and the right sleeve 30. For each of the three tubes 10, 20, 30, the knitting threads are fed via separate thread guides. From the connecting regions VB, VB ', from which the left sleeve 20 and the right sleeve 30 are connected to the body part 10, the knit is developed as a single tubular knitwear 50. In this area, the knitting threads are fed as a rule by a thread guide.
  • connection region VB Up to the connection region VB follow on the left sleeve 20 on the Rippbündchen 21, 21 'on the outside of the sleeve, an edge region 22, 22' and on the inner sleeve side edge region 23, 23 ', again the reference numerals without a dash the edge region for the sleeve front side 20' and Similarly, the right sleeve 30 is also provided with edge portions 32, 32 'and 33, 33' on the outside of the sleeve and the inside of the sleeve Edge regions formed with a predetermined number of needles and only with every other needle left mesh.
  • the knitted piece 1 is further knitted as a tube 50.
  • edge regions 14, 14 'and 15, 15' are on the side edges of the tube 50. Between the edge regions 14, 14 'and 15, 15' are on the front 50 'and the rear side 50 "of the hose 50 with all needles legal stitches formed.
  • All edge regions 12, 12 '; 13, 13 '; 14, 14 '; 15, 15 '; 22, 22 '; 23, 23 '; 32, 32 '; 33, 33 ' have primarily a technical function and secondarily an optical function.
  • these stitches must first be transferred to the other needle bed. After the links have been formed, these are hung back onto the needle bed, on which the stitches of this knit row are located.
  • This Um assertvorgang the stitches of the edge regions, these edge stitches, which are smaller due to the thread tension than the other stitches of the knitting line, widened and thus have the same size as the other stitches of the knitting line.
  • the transfer operation and the resulting increase in stitch size ensure that the plating thread is securely covered by the basic thread.
  • Fig. 2 shows the course of stitches for the knitted piece 1 Fig. 1 in the area of the line AA.
  • the knitted piece 1 consists in this area of three tubes, the body portion 10, the left sleeve 20 and the right sleeve 30.
  • the front sides 10 ', 20', 30 'of the tubes 10, 20, 30 are on the front needle bed V and the Rear sides 10 ", 20" and 30 "are formed on the rear needle bed H.
  • all stitches are formed with all needles
  • Also for the edge regions 22, 23, 32, 33 on the front sides of the sleeves 20, 30 and the edge regions 22 ', 23', 32 ', 33' on the rear sides of the sleeves 20, 30 are with every second needle has left stitches, and in all border areas, the left stitches can alternate with stitches from row to row.
  • Fig. 3 shows the course of stitches for the knitted piece 1 Fig. 1 in the area of the line BB.
  • the knitted piece consists only of a single tube 50, which includes the two sleeve portions and the trunk area.
  • stitched seams are formed with every second needle 'on the hose back 50' also formed by knitting with each second needle left mesh.
  • right stitches are formed with each needle, and here again all the mesh stitches from row to row of stitches can alternate with right stitches.
  • Fig. 4 shows a second example of a tubular Rund-Fertiggestricks 2, which is also a sweater with the same contour as the sweater 1 Fig. 1 is.
  • the marginal areas 214, 214 ', 215, 215' and the suture imitations 216, 216 ', 217, 217' are again formed with every other needle, with each stitch forming needle knitting in each second row left stitches and in the rows between them stitching stitches ,
  • an overlay pattern or pattern is provided on the front and back of the body 210
  • This pattern and its contour are merely exemplary, the arrangement in the knit piece can be arbitrary, and it is also possible to form the cover pattern on the back side of the knit in a different contour than the cover pattern on the front of the knit.
  • Row R 0 shows the yarn path, when the edges 214, 214 'and 215, 215' and the seam imitation areas 216, 216 'and 217, 217' of the knitted piece are formed of left-hand stitches.
  • row R 01 shows the thread run, if in these areas, the knitted piece is formed from legal stitches.
  • each needle involved in the knitting operation of the back of the knit piece forms a loop. If previously on the needles 4, 6, 13, 15, 17, 25, 27, 29 and 36 and 38 left stitches have been formed for the front part of the knitted piece, they are hung back onto the front needle bed, which is indicated by arrows.
  • each needle involved in the knitting operation of the front side of the knit piece forms a stitch
  • the stitches of the needles 1, 3 and 37, 39 forming the knitted edges of the back of the knitted fabric and the stitches of the needles 10, 12, 14 and 26, 28, 30, which form the seam imitations of the back, are transferred to their opposite empty needles.
  • the transfer elements are first returned to their home position. Subsequently, the needles 1, 3 and 37, 39 form left stitches for the knitted edges of the back side of the knitted piece and the needles 10, 12, 14 and 26, 28, 30 form left stitches for the seaming imitations of the back side of the knitted piece.
  • the needles form 5 to 8 and 32 to 35 stitches for the sleeves and the needles 16, 17, 19, 21, 23, 24 right stitches and the needles 18, 20, 22 tuck loops for the rear of the body part of the knitted piece.
  • row R 7 the stitches of the back side of the fabric piece formed on the front needle bed are hung back onto their opposite needles of the back needle bed, before in row R 8 the stitches of the needles 19, 21, 23 covering the front side cover pattern form the knitted piece, be taken over by these needles associated transfer elements.
  • row R 9 an offset of the transfer elements takes place from its basic position about a needle to the right.
  • the transfer elements then transfer the stitches to the needles 20, 22, 24, which are located to the right of the original needles of these stitches.
  • the needles 19, 21, 23 of the front needle bed become free of stitches.
  • the stitches of the needles 2, 4 and 38, 40 which form the knitted edges of the front side of the knitted piece, and the stitches of the needles 11, 13, 15 and 27, 29, 31, which form the seaming imitations of the same knitted fabric, umge4.000 on their opposite needles, before in series R 11, the needles 2, 4 and 38, 40 links stitches for the knitted edges of the front of the knitted piece and the needles 11, 13, 15 and 27, 29, 31 left stitches for the seaming imitations of the front of the knitted piece form.
  • the needles 6 to 9 and 33 to 36 form the Vintagechen the sleeve
  • the needles 17, 18, 20, 22, 24, 25 form right-stitches
  • the needles 19, 21, 23 form tuck loops for the body part of the front of the knitted piece.
  • row R 12 the transfer elements are brought to their basic position.
  • the stitches of the front of the knit piece formed on the back needle bed are hung back on their opposite needles of the front needle bed.
  • the row R 13 is identical to the row R 1, the first knitting series of the knitting sequence.
  • row R 14 are from the right rear side of the knitted fabric, the stitches of the needles 1, 3, ie the knitted edge, the stitches of the needles 5 to 8, ie the sleeve, the stitches of the needles 10, 12, 14, ie the seamed imitations and Meshes of the needles 16, 17 of the body part taken from these needles associated transfer elements.
  • the stitches of the needles 38, 40 ie the knit edge, the stitches of the needles 33 to 36, ie the sleeve, the stitches of the needles 27, 29, 31, ie the seams and the needles 24, 25 taken over of the body part of these needles associated transfer elements.
  • the transfer elements associated with the needles of the rear needle bed are offset by two needles to the right, and the transfer elements associated with the needles of the front needle bed are offset by two needles to the left.
  • the stitches of the right rear side of the knitted fabric are transferred from the transfer elements to needles of the rear needle bed and the stitches of the left front side of the knitting fabric located on the transfer elements to needles of the front needle bed.
  • the knitted piece on the right back and on the left front each reduced by two stitches.
  • R 16 row which is identical to the R 4 row.
  • row R 17 the stitches of the knit edges of the back of the knit piece and the stitches of the stitches of the seam are transferred to their opposite empty needles of the front needle bed.
  • row R 18 the transfer elements are brought into their basic position.
  • left stitches are formed for the knitted edges of the back side of the knitted piece and for the seam imitations of the back side of the knitted piece, as well as stitches for the sleeves and the back of the trunk piece.
  • row R 19 which is identical to the row R 7, before in row R 20 from the right front of the knitted piece, the stitches of the knitted edges, the stitches of the sleeves, the stitches of the stitches and the stitches stitches of needles 17, 18 of the body part be taken over by the respective needles associated transfer elements.
  • row R 22 the stitches of the knit edges and the seam imitations of the front of the knit piece are transferred to their opposite empty needles of the back needle bed. Subsequently, these needles in row R 23 form lefthand stitches for the fabric edges and seam imitations of the front side of the fabric Knitted fabric and the intervening needles right-hand stitching for the sleeves and the front of the body part.
  • the knitting sequence of the rows R 1 to R 23 is repeated until the knitted piece is completed or arise in the height repeat pattern due to different knitting conditions.
  • this knitting sequence provides optimal production possibilities for a knitting machine with at least three knitting systems, wherein in each carriage stroke all three knitting systems are in operation.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)

Description

Die Erfindung betrifft ein Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Schlauch-Rund-Fertiggestricks in Plattiertechnik auf einer Flachstrickmaschine mit mindestens zwei sich gegenüberliegenden Nadelbetten.The invention relates to a method for producing a tubular round finished knit in plating on a flat knitting machine with at least two opposing needle beds.

In Plattiertechnik hergestellte einflächige Glattgestricke weisen eine von einem Plattierfaden gebildete Innenseite und eine von einem Grundfaden gebildete Außenseite auf. Der Plattierfaden und der Grundfaden sind in der Regel von unterschiedlicher Qualität und häufig auch von unterschiedlicher Farbe. Schlauch-Rund-Fertiggestricke, die in Plattiertechnik gebildet werden, haben überall dort, wo der Fadenführer seine Bewegungsrichtung ändert, d. h. insbesondere an den Seitenrändern der Rumpfteile und der Ärmel so genannte Plattierfehler. Diese rühren u. a. daher, dass der sich vom Gestrick wegbewegende Fadenführer die Maschen der Randnadeln zusammenzieht und dadurch die Randmaschen verkleinert. Bei diesen verkleinerten Maschen ist häufig der Plattierfaden nicht mehr durch den Grundfaden abgedeckt und wird daher von außen sichtbar. Diese andersfarbig aussehenden oder eine andere Garnstruktur aufweisenden Randmaschen werden als so genannte Plattierfehler bezeichnet.Plain smooth flat knits made by plating have an inner side formed by a plating yarn and an outer side formed by a main yarn. The plating thread and the ground thread are usually of different quality and often of different colors. Tubular Rund-Fertiggestricke, which are formed in plating, have wherever the thread guide changes its direction of movement, d. H. especially on the side edges of the torso parts and the sleeves so-called plating error. These stir u. a. therefore, that the yarn guide moving away from the fabric contracts the stitches of the edge needles and thereby reduces the edge stitches. In these reduced mesh often the plating thread is no longer covered by the ground thread and is therefore visible from the outside. These different-colored looking or a different yarn structure having edge stitches are referred to as so-called Plattierfehler.

Aus der WO 2005/073445 A ist ein Verfahren zur Herstellung eines plattierten Rundgestricks mit Rippenstruktur unter Verwendung einer Strickmaschine mit vier Nadelbetten bekannt.From the WO 2005/073445 A For example, a method of making a clad knitted circular knit structure using a four-needle bed knitting machine is known.

Der vorliegend-en Erfindung liegt die Aufgabe zugrunde, ein Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Schlauch-Rund-Fertiggestricks in Plattiertechnik zu entwickeln, das keine Plattierfehler aufweist.The present invention has for its object to develop a method for producing a round tube Rundundgestick in plating, which has no Plattierfehler.

Die Aufgabe wird mit einem Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Schlauch-Rund-Fertiggestricks in Plattiertechnik auf einer Flachstrickmaschine mit mindestens zwei sich gegenüberliegenden Nadelbetten gelöst, das dadurch gekennzeichnet ist, dass mindestens diejenigen Maschen, nach deren Bildung die Strickrichtung geändert wird, insbesondere die Randmaschen des Gestricks, mindestens in jeder zweiten Reihe durch Umhängevorgänge zunächst derart vergrößert werden, dass sie im fertigen Gestrick die gleiche Größe haben wie die anderen Maschen des Gestricks.The object is achieved with a method for producing a tubular Rund-Fertiggestricks in plating on a flat knitting machine with at least two opposing needle beds, which is characterized in that at least those stitches, after the formation of the knitting direction is changed, in particular the edge stitches of the knitted fabric , At least in every second row by Umhängevorgänge initially be increased so that they have the same size in the finished fabric as the other stitches of the knitted fabric.

Durch die vergrößerte Bildung der kritischen Maschen, die normalerweise als Plattierfehler sichtbar werden, kann dem Effekt des Zusammenziehens durch den Fadenführer entgegengewirkt werden. Im fertigen Gestrick sind diese zunächst vergrößert gebildeten Maschen durch das Zusammenziehen durch den Fadenführer wieder gleich groß wie die benachbarten Maschen. Wie bei diesen Nachbarmaschen wird jetzt auch bei den Randmaschen der Plattierfaden vollständig vom Grundfaden nach außen abgedeckt, sodass keine Plattierfehler mehr im Gestrick sichtbar sind.Due to the increased formation of the critical stitches, which normally become visible as plating defects, the effect of contraction by the yarn guide can be counteracted. In the finished knitted fabric, these meshes, initially enlarged in size, are again the same size as the adjacent stitches due to the contraction by the yarn guide. As with these neighboring stitches, the plait thread is now completely covered by the ground thread on the edge stitches, so that plating defects are no longer visible in the fabric.

Bei einer bevorzugten Variante des erfindungsgemäßen Verfahrens werden die Maschen durch Umhängevorgänge von Nadel zu Nadel vergrößert. Das Umhängen kann dabei seitlich auf eine andere Nadel desselben Nadelbetts oder bevorzugt auf eine Nadel des gegenüberliegenden Nadelbetts erfolgen. In beiden Fällen entsteht durch das Umhängen ein Dehnen der Masche. Bevorzugt können die Maschen mindestens in jeder zweiten Strickreihe auf das gegenüberliegende Nadelbett umgehängt und als Linksmaschen gebildet werden. Dadurch entsteht ein als Nahtimitation sichtbarer Streifen an den Seitenrändern des Gestricks. Solche Nahtimitationen sind häufig erwünscht und werden auch bei Schlauch-Rund-Fertiggestricken eingesetzt, die nicht in Plattiertechnik hergestellt sind. Die Randmaschen können in jeder Reihe oder aber nur in jeder zweiten Reihe als Linksmaschen gestrickt werden. Entsprechend erhalten die Nahtimitationen einen anderen Charakter. In beiden Fällen reichen jedoch die durch den Umhängevorgang auf ihre Ursprungsgröße gebrachten Randmaschen aus, in sämtlichen Strickreihen Plattierfehler zu vermeiden.In a preferred variant of the method according to the invention, the stitches are enlarged by transfer operations from needle to needle. The wrapping can be done laterally on another needle of the same needle bed or preferably on a needle of the opposite needle bed. In both cases, the hanging creates a stretching of the stitch. Preferably, the stitches can be transferred to the opposite needle bed at least in every other row of knits and formed as a left stitch. This creates a visible as a seam imitation stripes on the side edges of the knitted fabric. Such seam imitations are often desirable and are also used in tubular round finished knits which are not made in plating technique. The edge stitches can be knit in each row or only in every other row as a left stitch. Accordingly, the seam imitations get a different character. In both cases, however, the edge stitches brought to their original size by the draping operation are sufficient to avoid plating errors in all knitting rows.

Zur Nachkalibrierung der Maschen im Randbereich des Gestricks können mindestens in diesen Randbereichen nur mit jeder zweiten Nadel Maschen gebildet werden. Dadurch entstehen freie Nadeln, auf die die Maschen des gegenüberliegenden Nadelbetts zur Bildung der oben beschriebenen Linksmaschen umgehängt werden können.For recalibration of the stitches in the edge region of the knitted fabric, stitches can be formed only with every second needle at least in these edge regions. This results in free needles on which the stitches of the opposing needle bed can be transferred to form the links mesh described above.

Weiter ist es möglich, auch außerhalb der Randbereiche des Gestricks durch Linksmaschen Nahtimitationen herzustellen. Solche Nahtimitationen kommen insbesondere an den Verbindungsstellen zwischen Ärmeln und Rumpfteil infrage. Dabei können die außerhalb der Randbereiche liegenden Nahtimitationen zweckmäßigerweise in der gleichen Weise wie die Randbereiche hergestellt werden. Die Nahtimitationen des gesamten Gestricks haben dann einen einheitlichen Charakter. Außer in den Anbindungsbereichen der Ärmel an das Rumpfteil können solche Nahtimitationen natürlich auch an anderen Stellen des Rumpfteils oder an den Ärmeln hergestellt werden.Furthermore, it is possible to produce seam imitations even through seams outside the edges of the knitted fabric. Such seams come into question in particular at the joints between the sleeves and the body part. The seam imitations lying outside the edge regions can expediently be produced in the same way as the edge regions. The seam imitations of the entire knitted fabric then have a uniform character. Of course, other than in the areas of connection of the sleeves to the body part, such seams can also be made in other parts of the body or on the sleeves.

Bei einer bevorzugten Variante des Verfahrens zur Herstellung eines Gestricks mit einem Ausdeckmuster im Vorder- und Rückenteil werden im Schulterbereich eine fortlaufende Minderung der Gestrickbreite und eine Vergrößerung der Randmaschen durch Umhängevorgänge durchgeführt, Nahtimitationen im Anschlussbereich der Ärmel an das Rumpfteil durch Linksmaschen und glatt rechts gestrickte Bereiche an den Ärmeln und im Rumpfteil sowie das Ausdeckmuster im Vorder- und Rückenteil gebildet.In a preferred variant of the method for producing a knit fabric with a cover pattern in the front and back, a continuous reduction of the knit width and an enlargement of the edge stitches are performed by Umhängevorgänge shoulder seams in the connection area of the sleeves to the body part by left stitching and smooth right-knitted areas formed on the sleeves and in the body part and the Ausdeckmuster in the front and back.

Wird dieses Verfahren auf einer Flachstrickmaschine mit drei Stricksystemen durchgeführt, so sind bei jedem Schlittenhub alle Stricksysteme in Tätigkeit, d. h. die optimalen Produktionsbedingungen erreicht.If this method is performed on a flat knitting machine with three knitting systems, then every knitting stroke will cause all the knitting systems to operate. H. achieved the optimal production conditions.

Ein Schlauch-Rund-Fertiggestrick, das nach einem erfindungsgemäßen Verfahren hergestellt ist, weist mindestens in den Randbereichen umgehängte Maschen auf. Diese umgehängten Maschen können dabei vorzugsweise Linksmaschen sein. Dies ermöglicht die Herstellung einer Nahtimitation. Das Gestrickstück kann solche Nahtimitationen auch außerhalb der Randbereiche aufweisen. Außerdem kann das Gestrick auch mindestens einen Ausdeckmusterbereich oder andere Musterbereiche aufweisen.A tubular round-finished knit, which is produced by a method according to the invention, has at least in the edge regions umgehängte mesh. These suspended stitches can preferably be left stitches. This allows the production of a seam imitation. The knitted piece can also have such seam imitations outside the edge regions. Furthermore For example, the fabric may also include at least one cover pattern area or other pattern areas.

Nachfolgend werden erfindungsgemäße Gestrickstücke und Verfahren zu ihrer Herstellung anhand der Zeichnung näher beschrieben.In the following, knitted fabrics according to the invention and methods for their production will be described in more detail with reference to the drawing.

Im Einzelnen zeigen:

Fig. 1
eine schematische Darstellung eines ersten erfindungsgemäßen Gestrickstücks;
Fig. 2
einen Maschenverlauf des Gestrickstücks aus Fig. 1 in der Strickreihe entlang der Linie A-A in Fig. 1;
Fig. 3
einen Maschenverlauf des Gestrickstücks aus Fig. 1 in der Strickreihe entlang der Linie B-B in Fig. 1;
Fig. 4
eine schematische Darstellung eines zweiten erfindungsge- mäßen Gestrickstücks;
Fig. 5.1 - 5.9
einen Maschenverlauf zur Herstellung des Gestrickstücks aus Fig. 4 im Schulterbereich ab der Linie C-C in Fig. 4.
In detail show:
Fig. 1
a schematic representation of a first knit piece according to the invention;
Fig. 2
a stitch course of the knitted piece Fig. 1 in the row of knits along the line AA in Fig. 1 ;
Fig. 3
a stitch course of the knitted piece Fig. 1 in the row of knits along the line BB in Fig. 1 ;
Fig. 4
a schematic representation of a second inventive knitted piece;
Fig. 5.1 - 5.9
a stitch course for the production of the knitted piece Fig. 4 in the shoulder area from the line CC in Fig. 4 ,

Fig. 1 zeigt einen als Schlauch-Rund-Fertiggestrick gebildeten Pullover, der vollständig auf einer Flachstrickmaschine gebildet werden kann. Der Pullover 1 ist in Plattiertechnik hergestellt, d. h. zu seiner Herstellung werden jeder am Strickvorgang beteiligten Nadel mindestens zwei verschiedene Strickfäden zur Maschenbildung zugeführt. Fig. 1 shows a sweater formed as a tubular Rund-Fertiggestrick that can be completely formed on a flat knitting machine. The sweater 1 is made in plating, ie for its production, everyone on Knitting involved needle at least two different knitting threads fed to the stitch formation.

Die Abfolge der Strickabläufe zum Bilden des Schlauch-Rund-Fertiggestricks 1 entspricht dem Stand der Technik. Es wird mit drei einzelnen Schlauchgestricken, dem Rumpfteil 10, dem linken Ärmel 20 und dem rechten Ärmel 30 begonnen. Für jeden der drei Schläuche 10, 20, 30 werden die Strickfäden über separate Fadenführer zugeführt. Ab den Verbindungsbereichen VB, VB', ab denen der linke Ärmel 20 und der rechte Ärmel 30 mit dem Rumpfteil 10 verbunden sind, wird das Gestrick als ein einziges Schlauchgestrick 50 weitergebildet. In diesem Bereich werden die Strickfäden im Regelfall von einem Fadenführer zugeführt.The sequence of knitting processes for forming the tubular round finished knitted fabric 1 corresponds to the prior art. It is started with three individual tubular knitted fabric, the body portion 10, the left sleeve 20 and the right sleeve 30. For each of the three tubes 10, 20, 30, the knitting threads are fed via separate thread guides. From the connecting regions VB, VB ', from which the left sleeve 20 and the right sleeve 30 are connected to the body part 10, the knit is developed as a single tubular knitwear 50. In this area, the knitting threads are fed as a rule by a thread guide.

Im dargestellten Beispiel befinden sich am unteren Rand des Rumpfteils 10 und der Ärmel 20, 30 jeweils Rippbündchen. Bis zu den Verbindungsstellen VB, VB' der Ärmel 20, 30 mit dem Rumpfteil 10 folgt am Rumpfteil 10 auf das Rippbündchen 11, 11' an beiden Seiten des Rumpfteils 10 ein Randbereich 12, 12' und 13, 13', in den mit einer vorgegebenen Anzahl von Nadeln und nur mit jeder zweiten Nadel Linksmaschen gebildet werden. Mit 12 ist der linke Rand des Rumpfteils 10 auf der Vorderseite, mit 12' auf der Hinterseite, mit 13 der rechte Rand auf der Vorderseite und mit 13' der rechte Rand auf der Hinterseite des Rumpfteils 10 bezeichnet. Zwischen den Randbereichen 12, 12' und 13, 13' der Vorderseite 10' und der Hinterseite 10" des Rumpfteils 10 werden mit allen Nadeln Rechtsmaschen gebildet.In the example shown are at the bottom of the body part 10 and the sleeves 20, 30 each ribbed cuffs. Up to the connection points VB, VB 'of the sleeves 20, 30 with the body part 10 follows on the fuselage part 10 on the Rippbündchen 11, 11' on both sides of the body part 10, an edge region 12, 12 'and 13, 13', in with a predetermined number of needles and only with every other needle left stitches are formed. 12 is the left edge of the body part 10 on the front side, with 12 'on the rear side, with 13 the right edge on the front side and with 13' the right edge on the rear side of the body part 10. Between the edge regions 12, 12 'and 13, 13' of the front 10 'and the rear 10 "of the body part 10 are formed with all needles Rechtsmaschen.

Bis zum Verbindungsbereich VB folgen am linken Ärmel 20 auf das Rippbündchen 21, 21' an der Ärmelaußenseite ein Randbereich 22, 22' und an der Ärmelinnenseite ein Randbereich 23, 23', wobei wieder die Bezugszeichen ohne Strich den Randbereich für die Ärmelvorderseite 20' und die mit einem Strich versehenen Bezugszeichen die Randbereiche für die Ärmelrückseite 20" bezeichnen. In analoger Weise ist auch der rechte Ärmel 30 mit Randbereichen 32, 32' und 33, 33' auf der Ärmelaußenseite und der Ärmelinnenseite versehen. Auch bei den Ärmeln werden in allen Randbereichen mit einer vorgegebenen Anzahl von Nadeln und nur mit jeder zweiten Nadel Linksmaschen gebildet.Up to the connection region VB follow on the left sleeve 20 on the Rippbündchen 21, 21 'on the outside of the sleeve, an edge region 22, 22' and on the inner sleeve side edge region 23, 23 ', again the reference numerals without a dash the edge region for the sleeve front side 20' and Similarly, the right sleeve 30 is also provided with edge portions 32, 32 'and 33, 33' on the outside of the sleeve and the inside of the sleeve Edge regions formed with a predetermined number of needles and only with every other needle left mesh.

Zwischen den Randbereichen der Vorder- und Hinterseite 20', 20" des linken Ärmels 20 und der Vorder- und Hinterseite 30', 30" des rechten Ärmels 30 werden mit allen Nadeln Rechtsmaschen gebildet.Between the edge regions of the front and rear side 20 ', 20 "of the left sleeve 20 and the front and rear side 30', 30" of the right sleeve 30 are formed with all needles Rechtsmaschen.

Oberhalb der Verbindungsbereiche VB, VB' zwischen den Ärmeln 20, 30 und dem Rumpfteil 10 wird das Gestrickstück 1 als ein Schlauch 50 weitergestrickt. Nun gibt es nur noch zwei Randbereiche 14, 14' und 15, 15' an den Seitenrändern des Schlauchs 50. Zwischen den Randbereichen 14, 14' und 15, 15' werden auf der Vorderseite 50' und der Hinterseite 50" des Schlauchs 50 mit allen Nadeln Rechtsmaschen gebildet.Above the connecting regions VB, VB 'between the sleeves 20, 30 and the body part 10, the knitted piece 1 is further knitted as a tube 50. Now there are only two edge regions 14, 14 'and 15, 15' on the side edges of the tube 50. Between the edge regions 14, 14 'and 15, 15' are on the front 50 'and the rear side 50 "of the hose 50 with all needles legal stitches formed.

Sämtliche Randbereiche 12, 12'; 13, 13'; 14, 14'; 15, 15'; 22, 22'; 23, 23'; 32, 32'; 33, 33' haben primär eine technische Funktion und erst sekundär eine optische Funktion. Zur Herstellung der Linksmaschen in den Randbereichen müssen diese Maschen zuerst auf das andere Nadelbett umgehängt werden. Nach Bildung der Linksmaschen werden diese wieder auf das Nadelbett zurückgehängt, auf dem sich die Rechtsmaschen dieser Strickreihe befinden. Durch diesen Umhängevorgang der Maschen der Randbereiche werden diese Randmaschen, die aufgrund der Fadenspannung kleiner sind als die anderen Maschen der Strickreihe, geweitet und haben dadurch die gleiche Größe wie die anderen Maschen der Strickreihe. Bei Maschen, die in Plattiertechnik gebildet werden, ist durch den Umhängevorgang und die daraus resultierende Maschenvergrößerung gewährleistet, dass der Plattierfaden sicher vom Grundfaden überdeckt wird.All edge regions 12, 12 '; 13, 13 '; 14, 14 '; 15, 15 '; 22, 22 '; 23, 23 '; 32, 32 '; 33, 33 'have primarily a technical function and secondarily an optical function. To make the left stitches in the edge areas, these stitches must first be transferred to the other needle bed. After the links have been formed, these are hung back onto the needle bed, on which the stitches of this knit row are located. By this Umhängevorgang the stitches of the edge regions, these edge stitches, which are smaller due to the thread tension than the other stitches of the knitting line, widened and thus have the same size as the other stitches of the knitting line. In the case of stitches formed by plating, the transfer operation and the resulting increase in stitch size ensure that the plating thread is securely covered by the basic thread.

Optisch werden mit den Maschen des Randbereichs, die in jeder oder in jeder zweiten Reihe als Linksmaschen gebildet werden, Seitennähte imitiert, wie sie an aus flächigen Teilgestricken zusammengesetzten Gestrickstücken vorhanden sind. Solche Nahtimitate können beim Schlauch-Rund-Fertiggestrick 1 außer in den Randbereichen auch beispielsweise in den Bereichen 16, 16' und 17, 17' hergestellt werden, um eine Naht zwischen den Ärmeln 20, 30 und dem Rumpfteil 10 zu imitieren.Visually, with the stitches of the edge region, which are formed in each or every other row as a left-hand stitching, side seams are mimicked, as they are present at knitted fabric pieces composed of flat part-knitted fabrics. Such seam imitations can be made in the tubular round-finished knitted fabric 1 except in the edge regions, for example in the areas 16, 16 'and 17, 17' in order to imitate a seam between the sleeves 20, 30 and the body part 10.

Fig. 2 zeigt den Maschenverlauf für das Gestrickstück 1 aus Fig. 1 im Bereich der Linie A-A. Das Gestrickstück 1 besteht in diesem Bereich aus drei Schläuchen, dem Rumpfteil 10, dem linken Ärmel 20 und dem rechten Ärmel 30. Die Vorderseiten 10', 20', 30' der Schläuche 10, 20, 30 werden auf dem vorderen Nadelbett V und die Hinterseiten 10", 20" und 30" auf dem hinteren Nadelbett H gebildet. Dabei werden jeweils mit allen Nadeln Rechtsmaschen gebildet. Für die Randbereiche 12, 13 der Vorderseite 10' des Rumpfteils 10 und für die Randbereiche 12', 13' seiner Hinterseite werden mit jeder zweiten Nadel Linksmaschen gebildet. Auch für die Randbereiche 22, 23, 32, 33 an den Vorderseiten der Ärmel 20, 30 und den Randbereichen 22', 23', 32', 33' an den Hinterseiten der Ärmel 20, 30 werden mit jeder zweiten Nadel Linksmaschen gebildet. In allen Randbereichen können sich die Linksmaschen mit Rechtsmaschen von Strickreihe zu Strickreihe abwechseln. Fig. 2 shows the course of stitches for the knitted piece 1 Fig. 1 in the area of the line AA. The knitted piece 1 consists in this area of three tubes, the body portion 10, the left sleeve 20 and the right sleeve 30. The front sides 10 ', 20', 30 'of the tubes 10, 20, 30 are on the front needle bed V and the Rear sides 10 ", 20" and 30 "are formed on the rear needle bed H. In each case, all stitches are formed with all needles For the edge regions 12, 13 of the front side 10 'of the body part 10 and for the edge regions 12', 13 'of its rear side Also for the edge regions 22, 23, 32, 33 on the front sides of the sleeves 20, 30 and the edge regions 22 ', 23', 32 ', 33' on the rear sides of the sleeves 20, 30 are with every second needle has left stitches, and in all border areas, the left stitches can alternate with stitches from row to row.

Fig. 3 zeigt den Maschenverlauf für das Gestrickstück 1 aus Fig. 1 im Bereich der Linie B-B. Hier besteht das Gestrickstück nur noch aus einem einzigen Schlauch 50, der die beiden Ärmelbereiche und den Rumpfbereich umfasst. An den Randbereichen 14, 15 der Vorderseite 50' des Schlauchs 50 und den Randbereichen 14', 15' seiner Hinterseite 50" werden mit jeder zweiten Nadel Linksmaschen gebildet. Außerdem werden Nahtimitate 16, 17 auf der Schlauchvorderseite 50' und Nahtimitate 16', 17' auf der Schlauchhinterseite 50" ebenfalls dadurch gebildet, dass mit jeder zweiten Nadel Linksmaschen gestrickt werden. In allen anderen Bereichen der Vorder- und Hinterseite 50' und 50" des Schlauchs 50 werden mit jeder Nadel Rechtsmaschen gebildet. Auch hier können sich wieder sämtliche Linksmaschen von Maschenreihe zu Maschenreihe mit Rechtsmaschen abwechseln. Fig. 3 shows the course of stitches for the knitted piece 1 Fig. 1 in the area of the line BB. Here, the knitted piece consists only of a single tube 50, which includes the two sleeve portions and the trunk area. At the edge regions 14, 15 of the front side 50 'of the tube 50 and the edge regions 14', 15 'of its rear side 50 ", stitched seams are formed with every second needle 'on the hose back 50' also formed by knitting with each second needle left mesh. In all other areas of the front and rear sides 50 'and 50 "of the tube 50, right stitches are formed with each needle, and here again all the mesh stitches from row to row of stitches can alternate with right stitches.

Fig. 4 zeigt ein zweites Beispiel eines Schlauch-Rund-Fertiggestricks 2, das ebenfalls ein Pullover mit der gleichen Kontur wie der Pullover 1 aus Fig. 1 ist. Die Randbereiche 214, 214', 215, 215' und die Nahtimitate 216, 216', 217, 217' werden wieder mit jeder zweiten Nadel gebildet, wobei mit jeder Maschen bildenden Nadel in jeder zweiten Reihe Linksmaschen und in den Reihen dazwischen Rechtsmaschen gestrickt werden. Zwischen den Randbereichen werden an der Vorder- und Hinterseite der Ärmel 202, 202', 203, 203' und des Rumpfteils 210', 210" mit jeder Nadel Rechtsmaschen gebildet. Im Schulterbereich des Gestricks 2 ist auf der Vorder- und Hinterseite des Rumpfes 210 ein Ausdeckmuster oder so genanntes Petinetmuster 260, 260' in Form einer Raute vorgesehen. Dieses Muster und seine Kontur sind lediglich beispielhaft. Auch die Anordnung im Gestrickstück kann beliebig sein. Außerdem ist es möglich, das Ausdeckmuster auf der Hinterseite des Gestricks in einer anderen Kontur zu bilden als das Ausdeckmuster auf der Vorderseite des Gestricks. Fig. 4 shows a second example of a tubular Rund-Fertiggestricks 2, which is also a sweater with the same contour as the sweater 1 Fig. 1 is. The marginal areas 214, 214 ', 215, 215' and the suture imitations 216, 216 ', 217, 217' are again formed with every other needle, with each stitch forming needle knitting in each second row left stitches and in the rows between them stitching stitches , Between the border areas At the front and back of the sleeves 202, 202 ', 203, 203' and the body portion 210 ', 210 ", stitches are formed with each needle, and in the shoulder portion of the fabric 2, an overlay pattern or pattern is provided on the front and back of the body 210 This pattern and its contour are merely exemplary, the arrangement in the knit piece can be arbitrary, and it is also possible to form the cover pattern on the back side of the knit in a different contour than the cover pattern on the front of the knit.

In den Fig. 5.1 bis 5.9 wird nun der Maschenverlauf zur Herstellung des Gestricks 2 im Schulterbereich, der durch die Linie C-C in Fig. 4 angedeutet ist, erläutert. In diesem Bereich kommen neben der Plattiertechnik folgende Stricktechniken zum Einsatz: Fortlaufende Minderung der Gestrickbreite, Gestrickränder und Nahtimitatbereiche, in denen nur mit jeder zweiten Nadel Maschen gebildet werden und sich Rechtsmaschen mit Linksmaschen in jeder Maschenreihe abwechseln, Glattgestrickbereiche (Rechtsmaschen) an den Ärmeln und am Rumpf sowie ein Ausdeckmuster im Rumpfbereich.In the Fig. 5.1 to 5.9 Now, the course of stitching for the production of the knitted fabric 2 in the shoulder region, which is indicated by the line CC in FIG Fig. 4 is indicated explained. In this area, in addition to the plating technique, the following knitting techniques are used: Continuous reduction of the knit width, knitted edges and seam imitation areas in which stitches are formed with only every other needle and alternating with left stitches in each course stitching, smooth knit areas (right stitches) on the sleeves and on the Hull and a Ausdeckmuster in the trunk area.

Reihe R 0 zeigt den Fadenlauf, wenn die Ränder 214, 214' und 215, 215' sowie die Nahtimitatbereiche 216, 216' und 217, 217' des Gestrickstücks aus Linksmaschen gebildet sind. Dagegen zeigt Reihe R 01 den Fadenlauf, wenn in diesen Bereichen das Gestrickstück aus Rechtsmaschen gebildet wird.Row R 0 shows the yarn path, when the edges 214, 214 'and 215, 215' and the seam imitation areas 216, 216 'and 217, 217' of the knitted piece are formed of left-hand stitches. In contrast, row R 01 shows the thread run, if in these areas, the knitted piece is formed from legal stitches.

In Reihe R 1 bildet jede am Strickvorgang der Hinterseite des Gestrickstücks beteiligte Nadel eine Masche. Falls zuvor auf den Nadeln 4, 6, 13, 15, 17, 25, 27, 29 sowie 36 und 38 Linksmaschen für den Vorderteil des Gestrickstücks gebildet worden sind, so werden diese auf das vordere Nadelbett zurückgehängt, was durch Pfeile angedeutet ist.In row R 1, each needle involved in the knitting operation of the back of the knit piece forms a loop. If previously on the needles 4, 6, 13, 15, 17, 25, 27, 29 and 36 and 38 left stitches have been formed for the front part of the knitted piece, they are hung back onto the front needle bed, which is indicated by arrows.

In Reihe R 2 werden die Maschen der Nadeln 18, 20, 22, die das Ausdeckmuster der Hinterseite des Gestrickstücks bilden, von diesen Nadeln zugeordneten Transferelementen übernommen, was durch Doppelpfeile angedeutet ist. Anschließend werden in Reihe R 3 die Transferelemente von ihrer Grundposition aus um eine Nadel nach links versetzt und die Maschen von den Transferelementen an die Nadeln 17, 19, 21 des hinteren Nadelbetts übergeben, die sich links neben den Ursprungsnadeln dieser Maschen befinden. Die Nadeln 18, 20, 22 des hinteren Nadelbetts sind dadurch frei geworden.In row R 2, the stitches of the needles 18, 20, 22, which form the cover pattern of the back side of the knitted piece, are taken over by transfer elements assigned to these needles, which is indicated by double arrows. Subsequently, in row R 3, the transfer elements from their home position from one needle to the left and pass the stitches from the transfer elements to the needles 17, 19, 21 of the rear needle bed, which are located to the left of the original needles of these stitches. The needles 18, 20, 22 of the rear needle bed have become free.

In Reihe R 4 bildet jede am Strickvorgang der Vorderseite des Gestrickstücks beteiligte Nadel eine Masche, bevor in Reihe R 5 die Maschen der Nadeln 1, 3 und 37, 39, die die Gestrickränder der Hinterseite des Gestricks bilden, und die Maschen der Nadeln 10, 12, 14 und 26, 28, 30, die die Nahtimitate der Hinterseite bilden, auf ihre gegenüberliegenden leeren Nadeln umgehängt werden.In row R 4, each needle involved in the knitting operation of the front side of the knit piece forms a stitch, before in row R 5 the stitches of the needles 1, 3 and 37, 39 forming the knitted edges of the back of the knitted fabric and the stitches of the needles 10, 12, 14 and 26, 28, 30, which form the seam imitations of the back, are transferred to their opposite empty needles.

In Reihe R 6 werden die Transferelemente zunächst in ihre Grundposition zurückgebracht. Anschließend bilden die Nadeln 1, 3 und 37, 39 Linksmaschen für die Gestrickränder der Hinterseite des Gestrickstücks und die Nadeln 10, 12, 14 und 26, 28, 30 bilden Linksmaschen für die Nahtimitate der Hinterseite des Gestrickstücks. Auf dem hinteren Nadelbett bilden die Nadeln 5 bis 8 und 32 bis 35 Rechtsmaschen für die Ärmel und die Nadeln 16, 17, 19, 21, 23, 24 Rechtsmaschen und die Nadeln 18, 20, 22 Fanghenkel für die Hinterseite des Rumpfteils des Gestrickstücks.In row R 6, the transfer elements are first returned to their home position. Subsequently, the needles 1, 3 and 37, 39 form left stitches for the knitted edges of the back side of the knitted piece and the needles 10, 12, 14 and 26, 28, 30 form left stitches for the seaming imitations of the back side of the knitted piece. On the back needle bed, the needles form 5 to 8 and 32 to 35 stitches for the sleeves and the needles 16, 17, 19, 21, 23, 24 right stitches and the needles 18, 20, 22 tuck loops for the rear of the body part of the knitted piece.

In Reihe R 7 werden die Maschen der Hinterseite des Gestrickstücks, die auf dem vorderen Nadelbett gebildet wurden, wieder auf ihre gegenüberliegenden Nadeln des hinteren Nadelbetts zurückgehängt, bevor in Reihe R 8 die Maschen der Nadeln 19, 21, 23, die das Ausdeckmuster der Vorderseite des Gestrickstücks bilden, von diesen Nadeln zugeordneten Transferelementen übernommen werden. Anschließend erfolgt in Reihe R 9 ein Versatz der Transferelemente aus ihrer Grundposition um eine Nadel nach rechts. Die Transferelemente übergeben dann die Maschen an die Nadeln 20, 22, 24, die sich rechts neben den Ursprungsnadeln dieser Maschen befinden. Dadurch werden die Nadeln 19, 21, 23 des vorderen Nadelbetts frei von Maschen.In row R 7, the stitches of the back side of the fabric piece formed on the front needle bed are hung back onto their opposite needles of the back needle bed, before in row R 8 the stitches of the needles 19, 21, 23 covering the front side cover pattern form the knitted piece, be taken over by these needles associated transfer elements. Subsequently, in row R 9, an offset of the transfer elements takes place from its basic position about a needle to the right. The transfer elements then transfer the stitches to the needles 20, 22, 24, which are located to the right of the original needles of these stitches. As a result, the needles 19, 21, 23 of the front needle bed become free of stitches.

In Reihe R 10 werden die Maschen der Nadeln 2, 4 und 38, 40, die die Gestrickränder der Vorderseite des Gestrickstücks bilden, und die Maschen der Nadeln 11, 13, 15 und 27, 29, 31, die die Nahtimitate derselben Gestrickseite bilden, auf ihre gegenüberliegenden Nadeln umgehängt, bevor in Reihe R 11 die Nadeln 2, 4 und 38, 40 Linksmaschen für die Gestrickränder der Vorderseite des Gestrickstücks und die Nadeln 11, 13, 15 und 27, 29, 31 Linksmaschen für die Nahtimitate der Vorderseite des Gestrickstücks bilden. Die Nadeln 6 bis 9 und 33 bis 36 bilden die Rechtsmaschen der Ärmel, die Nadeln 17, 18, 20, 22, 24, 25 bilden Rechtsmaschen und die Nadeln 19, 21, 23 bilden Fanghenkel für das Rumpfteil der Vorderseite des Gestrickstücks.In the row R 10, the stitches of the needles 2, 4 and 38, 40, which form the knitted edges of the front side of the knitted piece, and the stitches of the needles 11, 13, 15 and 27, 29, 31, which form the seaming imitations of the same knitted fabric, umgehängt on their opposite needles, before in series R 11, the needles 2, 4 and 38, 40 links stitches for the knitted edges of the front of the knitted piece and the needles 11, 13, 15 and 27, 29, 31 left stitches for the seaming imitations of the front of the knitted piece form. The needles 6 to 9 and 33 to 36 form the Rechtsmaschen the sleeve, the needles 17, 18, 20, 22, 24, 25 form right-stitches and the needles 19, 21, 23 form tuck loops for the body part of the front of the knitted piece.

In Reihe R 12 werden die Transferelemente in ihre Grundposition gebracht. Die Maschen der Vorderseite des Gestrickstücks, die auf dem hinteren Nadelbett gebildet werden, werden auf ihre gegenüberliegenden Nadeln des vorderen Nadelbetts zurückgehängt. Die Reihe R 13 ist identisch zur Reihe R 1, der ersten Strickreihe des Strickablaufs. In Reihe R 14 werden von der rechten Hinterseite des Gestrickstücks die Maschen der Nadeln 1, 3, d. h. des Gestrickrands, die Maschen der Nadeln 5 bis 8, d. h. der Ärmel, die Maschen der Nadeln 10, 12, 14, d. h. die Nahtimitate und die Maschen der Nadeln 16, 17 des Rumpfteils von diesen Nadeln zugeordneten Transferelementen übernommen. Von der linken Vorderseite des Gestrickstücks werden die Maschen der Nadeln 38, 40, d. h. dem Gestrickrand, die Maschen der Nadeln 33 bis 36, d. h. dem Ärmel, die Maschen der Nadeln 27, 29, 31, d. h. die Nahtimitate und die Nadeln 24, 25 des Rumpfteils von diesen Nadeln zugeordneten Transferelementen übernommen. Anschließend werden in Reihe R 15 die Transferelemente, die den Nadeln des hinteren Nadelbetts zugeordnet sind, um zwei Nadeln nach rechts versetzt, und die Transferelemente, die den Nadeln des vorderen Nadelbetts zugeordnet sind, um zwei Nadeln nach links versetzt. Danach werden die Maschen der rechten Hinterseite des Gestrickstücks von den Transferelementen auf Nadeln des hinteren Nadelbetts und die Maschen der linken Vorderseite des Gestrickstücks, die sich auf den Transferelementen befinden, auf Nadeln des vorderen Nadelbetts übergeben. Dadurch wird das Gestrickstück an der rechten Hinterseite und an der linken Vorderseite jeweils um zwei Maschen vermindert.In row R 12, the transfer elements are brought to their basic position. The stitches of the front of the knit piece formed on the back needle bed are hung back on their opposite needles of the front needle bed. The row R 13 is identical to the row R 1, the first knitting series of the knitting sequence. In row R 14 are from the right rear side of the knitted fabric, the stitches of the needles 1, 3, ie the knitted edge, the stitches of the needles 5 to 8, ie the sleeve, the stitches of the needles 10, 12, 14, ie the seamed imitations and Meshes of the needles 16, 17 of the body part taken from these needles associated transfer elements. From the left front side of the knitted piece, the stitches of the needles 38, 40, ie the knit edge, the stitches of the needles 33 to 36, ie the sleeve, the stitches of the needles 27, 29, 31, ie the seams and the needles 24, 25 taken over of the body part of these needles associated transfer elements. Subsequently, in row R 15, the transfer elements associated with the needles of the rear needle bed are offset by two needles to the right, and the transfer elements associated with the needles of the front needle bed are offset by two needles to the left. Thereafter, the stitches of the right rear side of the knitted fabric are transferred from the transfer elements to needles of the rear needle bed and the stitches of the left front side of the knitting fabric located on the transfer elements to needles of the front needle bed. As a result, the knitted piece on the right back and on the left front each reduced by two stitches.

Es folgt die Reihe R 16, die identisch zur Reihe R 4 ist. In Reihe R 17 werden die Maschen der Gestrickränder der Hinterseite des Gestrickstücks und die Maschen der Nahtimitate auf ihre gegenüberliegenden leeren Nadeln des vorderen Nadelbetts umgehängt.This is followed by the R 16 row, which is identical to the R 4 row. In row R 17, the stitches of the knit edges of the back of the knit piece and the stitches of the stitches of the seam are transferred to their opposite empty needles of the front needle bed.

In Reihe R 18 werden die Transferelemente in ihre Grundposition gebracht. Außerdem werden Linksmaschen für die Gestrickränder der Hinterseite des Gestrickstücks und für die Nahtimitate der Hinterseite des Gestrickstücks gebildet sowie Rechtsmaschen für die Ärmel und die Hinterseite des Rumpfteils. Es folgt die Reihe R 19, die identisch zur Reihe R 7 ist, bevor in Reihe R 20 von der rechten Vorderseite des Gestrickstücks die Maschen der Gestrickränder, die Maschen der Ärmel, die Maschen der Nahtimitate und die Maschen der Nadeln 17, 18 des Rumpfteils von den jeweiligen Nadeln zugeordneten Transferelementen übernommen werden. In gleicher Weise werden von der linken Hinterseite des Gestrickstücks die Maschen der Gestrickränder, die Maschen des Nahtimitats und die Maschen der Nadeln 23, 24 des Rumpfteils von den Nadeln zugeordneten Transferelementen übernommen. Anschließend erfolgt in Reihe R 21 ein Versatz der Transferelemente mit den Maschen des vorderen Nadelbetts um zwei Nadeln nach rechts und der Transferelemente mit den Maschen des hinteren Nadelbetts um zwei Nadeln nach links. Danach werden die Maschen von den Transferelementen an die den Transferelementen jetzt gegenüberliegenden Nadeln übergeben, wodurch die Maschen der rechten Vorderseite des Gestrickstücks anschließend auf Nadeln des vorderen Nadelbetts hängen und die Maschen der linken Hinterseite des Gestrickstücks auf Nadeln des hinteren Nadelbetts. Durch diese Maßnahme ist das Gestrickstück an der rechten Vorderseite und linken Hinterseite um jeweils zwei Maschen in der Breite vermindert worden.In row R 18 the transfer elements are brought into their basic position. In addition, left stitches are formed for the knitted edges of the back side of the knitted piece and for the seam imitations of the back side of the knitted piece, as well as stitches for the sleeves and the back of the trunk piece. It is followed by the row R 19, which is identical to the row R 7, before in row R 20 from the right front of the knitted piece, the stitches of the knitted edges, the stitches of the sleeves, the stitches of the stitches and the stitches stitches of needles 17, 18 of the body part be taken over by the respective needles associated transfer elements. In the same way, from the left rear side of the knitted fabric, the stitches of the knitted edges, the stitches of the seam and the stitches of the needles 23, 24 of the body part are taken over by the needles associated with transfer elements. Subsequently, in row R 21, an offset of the transfer elements with the stitches of the front needle bed by two needles to the right and the transfer elements with the stitches of the rear needle bed by two needles to the left. Thereafter, the stitches are transferred from the transfer elements to the needles now opposed to the transfer elements, whereby the stitches of the right front side of the fabric piece subsequently hang on needles of the front needle bed and the stitches of the left back side of the fabric piece on needles of the rear needle bed. By this measure, the knitted piece on the right front and left back has been reduced by two stitches in width.

In Reihe R 22 werden die Maschen der Gestrickränder und der Nahtimitate der Vorderseite des Gestrickstücks auf ihre gegenüberliegenden leeren Nadeln des hinteren Nadelbetts umgehängt. Anschließend bilden diese Nadeln in Reihe R 23 Linksmaschen für die Gestrickränder und die Nahtimitate der Vorderseite des Gestrickstücks und die dazwischen liegenden Nadeln Rechtsmaschen für die Ärmel und die Vorderseite des Rumpfteils.In row R 22, the stitches of the knit edges and the seam imitations of the front of the knit piece are transferred to their opposite empty needles of the back needle bed. Subsequently, these needles in row R 23 form lefthand stitches for the fabric edges and seam imitations of the front side of the fabric Knitted fabric and the intervening needles right-hand stitching for the sleeves and the front of the body part.

Der Strickablauf der Reihen R 1 bis R 23 wird solange wiederholt, bis das Gestrickstück fertig gestellt ist oder sich im Höhenrapport musterbedingt andere Strickbedingungen ergeben.The knitting sequence of the rows R 1 to R 23 is repeated until the knitted piece is completed or arise in the height repeat pattern due to different knitting conditions.

Wie in den Fig. 5.1 bis 5.9 mit Pfeilen rechts der gezeigten Strickreihen angedeutet ist, bietet dieser Strickablauf optimale Produktionsmöglichkeiten für eine Strickmaschine mit mindestens drei Stricksystemen, wobei in jedem Schlittenhub alle drei Stricksysteme in Tätigkeit sind.As in the Fig. 5.1 to 5.9 indicated by arrows on the right of the knitting rows shown, this knitting sequence provides optimal production possibilities for a knitting machine with at least three knitting systems, wherein in each carriage stroke all three knitting systems are in operation.

Claims (8)

  1. Method for manufacturing a finished tubular knitted article (1) using the plating technique on a flat-bed knitting machine with at least two beds of needles placed opposite each other, characterised in that at least those stitches, especially the edge stitches of the article, after whose creation the knitting direction changes, are initially enlarged by transfer processes at least in every second row, such that they are the same size in the finished knitted article as the other stitches of the knitted article.
  2. Method according to Claim 1, characterised in that the stitches of at least every second row are transferred to the opposite needle bed and are knitted as reverse stitches.
  3. Method according to Claim 1 or 2, characterised in that stitches are knitted only with every second needle, at least in the edge areas (12, 12'; 13, 13'; 14, 14'; 15, 15'; 22, 22'; 23, 23'; 32, 32'; 33, 33') of the knitted article.
  4. Method according to one of Claims 1 to 3, characterised in that imitation seams (16, 16'; 17, 17') are also made by reverse stitches, away from the edge areas (12, 12'; 13, 13'; 14, 14'; 15, 15'; 22, 22'; 23, 23'; 32, 32'; 33, 33') of the knitted article.
  5. Method according to Claim 4, characterised in that the imitation seams (16, 16'; 17, 17') located away from the edge areas (12, 12'; 13, 13'; 14, 14'; 15, 15'; 22, 22'; 23, 23'; 32, 32'; 33, 33') are knitted in the same way as the edge areas (12, 12'; 13, 13'; 14, 14'; 15, 15'; 22, 22'; 23, 23'; 32, 32'; 33, 33').
  6. Method according to Claim 4 or 5, characterised in that the imitation seams (16, 16'; 17, 17') are made in the area of the sleeves (20, 30) joining with a body section (10).
  7. Method according to one of Claims 1 to 6, characterised in that in order to make a knitted article (2) with a relief pattern (260, 260') on the front and back at shoulder height, a continuous reduction of stitch width and an enlargement of the edge stitches are achieved by transfer processes, imitation seams are made with reverse stitches in the area of the sleeves (202, 203; 202', 203') joining with the body section (210, 210', 210"), and smooth plain knitted areas are made for the sleeves (202, 203; 202', 203') and body section (210, 210', 210") and the relief pattern (260, 260') on the front and back.
  8. Method according to Claim 7, characterised in that this is achieved on a flat-bed knitting machine with three knitting systems.
EP06022367A 2006-10-26 2006-10-26 Method for producing a tubular flat knit fabric with the plating technique Expired - Fee Related EP1918438B1 (en)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE502006006724T DE502006006724D1 (en) 2006-10-26 2006-10-26 Process for the production of a tubular round finished knitted fabric in plating technology
EP06022367A EP1918438B1 (en) 2006-10-26 2006-10-26 Method for producing a tubular flat knit fabric with the plating technique
CN2007101679325A CN101168883B (en) 2006-10-26 2007-10-26 Method for producing tubular knitted fabric by plating knitting technology

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP06022367A EP1918438B1 (en) 2006-10-26 2006-10-26 Method for producing a tubular flat knit fabric with the plating technique

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EP1918438A1 EP1918438A1 (en) 2008-05-07
EP1918438B1 true EP1918438B1 (en) 2010-04-14

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JP5567565B2 (en) * 2009-07-09 2014-08-06 株式会社島精機製作所 Knitwear having sleeves and body and knitting method thereof
JP5349357B2 (en) * 2010-02-03 2013-11-20 株式会社島精機製作所 Plating organization method
CN102071525A (en) * 2010-09-13 2011-05-25 宁波普罗蒂电脑横机有限公司 Scientific knit-and-wear knitting process
JP5865748B2 (en) * 2012-03-23 2016-02-17 株式会社島精機製作所 Knitting method of knitted fabric with flat knitting machine
JP5940411B2 (en) * 2012-08-08 2016-06-29 株式会社島精機製作所 Knitting method of knitted fabric
JP6518608B2 (en) * 2016-03-01 2019-05-22 株式会社島精機製作所 Method of knitting tubular knitted fabric
WO2020004006A1 (en) * 2018-06-26 2020-01-02 セーレン株式会社 Circular knitted fabric
JP7434035B2 (en) * 2020-04-01 2024-02-20 株式会社島精機製作所 How to knit tubular knitted fabric
CN113073418B (en) * 2021-03-05 2022-05-10 江南大学 Weaving method for controlling uniformity of size of edge coil of tubular fabric
CN113756000B (en) * 2021-08-03 2022-11-25 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 Knitting method for improving full-forming stripe alternation effect and fabric thereof
CN114808253B (en) * 2022-05-21 2023-09-19 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 Knitting method for left shoulder yarn nozzle thread end carrying structure of full-formed flat-shoulder round-neck garment

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GB566096A (en) * 1943-06-07 1944-12-13 Cotton Ltd W Method of widening on a straight bar knitting machine, and the product thereof
GB572908A (en) * 1943-09-06 1945-10-29 Edwin Wildt Knitted fabric and machines for producing same
TW483962B (en) * 2000-02-29 2002-04-21 Shima Seiki Mfg Method of knitting plating of tubular knitting fabric by four-sheet bed weft knifting machine
JP4180527B2 (en) * 2004-01-30 2008-11-12 株式会社島精機製作所 Formation method of wide rib structure by plating

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EP1918438A1 (en) 2008-05-07
CN101168883B (en) 2011-03-09
CN101168883A (en) 2008-04-30
DE502006006724D1 (en) 2010-05-27

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